Original subtitles

-Hi, I'm Rick Steves, back with more of the best of Europe.

navigating our way through the heart of England.

Thanks for joining us.

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In this episode, we'll visit some of the sites

that put the "great" in Britain --

reminders of its industrial might,

its royal heritage, venerable universities,

and a grand palace with a pretty impressive backyard.

We'll visit the schools of kings and prime ministers,

wind up a giant catapult,

marvel at Gothic architecture,

learn some pub etiquette,

and drop in on Churchill's palatial birthplace.

We'll learn to drive British,

and then we'll fire up some memories

at the birthplace of the Industrial Revolution.

In England, we start about 60 miles north of London

in Cambridge,

then visit Oxford with nearby Blenheim Palace

before venturing north to Warwick and Ironbridge Gorge.

Cambridge is famous for its prestigious university,

and it's the epitome of a university town,

with stately colleges and distinguished alumni,

ranging from Isaac Newton to Prince Charles.

Proud locals love to say,

"DNA was first modeled just over there.

The electron was discovered in that very lab,

and the atom was first split just up there."

The university dominates and owns most of Cambridge,

a historic town of about 120,000 people.

It's compact, and everything is within a pleasant walk.

The town is built along the sleepy Cam River,

which is lined with esteemed colleges,

and fronting the colleges is the main street

with most of the commercial energy.

As you stroll, notice how peaceful the town is.

Lots of bikes weaving through lots of pedestrians.

Your sightseeing revolves around the school,

its traditions, and quirky spirit.

For example, this clock was unveiled

by the late Cambridge physicist Steven Hawking.

The grotesque grasshopper that relentlessly pulls time forward

periodically winks at passersby.

The message?

Time is passing, so live every moment to the fullest.

♪♪

England's greatest universities, Oxford and Cambridge,

have been rivals since the 1300s.

We'll visit Oxford later.

Each has the same basic heritage and design.

No main campus -- instead, the many colleges

are scattered throughout the charming town center.

By catching one of the many guided town walks,

you'll get an insider's look at an urban mix

of what locals "town and gown."

-In medieval Europe,

it was the church that was in charge of higher education,

and here in Cambridge, we have 31 colleges,

all with the same design.

You have a beautiful green court.

Set around the court are buildings

where the students eat, sleep, pray, and study.

♪♪

-Many colleges welcome the public to browse around.

At their historic front gates, you'll find a porter's lodge.

The porter delivers mail, monitors who comes and goes,

and keeps people off the grass.

Colleges have centuries of heritage,

and you feel that in their exquisite libraries.

Here in Corpus Christi's Parker Library,

that college's literary treasures

are proudly on display, such as letters from Anne Boleyn

before husband Henry VIII lopped off her head

and a first edition of Newton's groundbreaking treatise,

"Principia Mathematica."

The exclusive putting-green quality of the courtyard lawns

is a huge deal here.

Generally, only senior professors

can walk on the courts,

the centerpiece of each college campus.

One of the powerhouse colleges at Cambridge is Kings,

which has a central courtyard

to match its esteemed reputation.

The 500-year-old Kings College Chapel,

built by Henrys VI through VIII,

is England's best surviving example

of late Gothic architecture.

With its emphasis on vertical lines,

it's called Perpendicular Gothic.

This is the most impressive building in Cambridge,

with the largest single span of vaulted roof anywhere --

2,000 tons of glorious fan vaulting.

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Here, you can enjoy the most complete collection

of original 16th-century Renaissance

stained glass in existence.

With the help of this closed captioning,

handy if you can read Latin,

you can wander through the entire Bible.

And the "Adoration of the Magi,"

a masterpiece by Rubens, adorns the altar.

Trinity College, just next door,

was founded in 1546 by Henry VIII.

It's the richest and biggest in town.

Cambridge has produced nearly 100 Nobel Prize winners,

and about 1/3 of them were Trinity graduates.

The great mathematician Sir Isaac Newton,

who both studied and taught at Trinity,

famously clapped his hands and timed the echo

to calculate the speed of sound.

Huh, 1,120 feet per second or 761 miles per hour

at this altitude.

The colleges that face the Cam River

each have garden-like backyards that combine

to make the riverbank feel like a lush and exclusive park.

A beloved Cambridge tradition is a romantic and graceful glide

past these colleges in a traditional flat-bottomed punt.

Skilled locals make the ride look effortless.

-So this is Trinity College, and this is the Wren Library.

-You can hire a boat to enjoy a witty narration

by a student as you're pulled past fine college architecture.

-Yeah, these are called the "Backs," the backs of the river.

There's eight colleges along the river.

So this area is called the Backs because, quite simply,

it's the back of those colleges.

The only way you can see the backs of these colleges

is along the river, so the best way

to see the backs of all the colleges is by punting.

-Or, for a little levity and probably more exercise

than you really want, why not rent one yourself?

[ Laughter ]

The punts are tougher to maneuver than they look.

[ Chatter ]

♪♪

England's easy to explore by car, train, or bus.

Rather than bother with the expense

and the headache of a car in the big cities,

we took the train from London to Cambridge,

and now we're going to catch the bus to Oxford.

This direct bus is easier, cheaper,

and just as fast as the train.

It costs about as much as pub lunch,

and we get to enjoy the view along the way.

In about three hours, we're there.

Oxford, founded in the 10th century,

is home to the oldest university in the English-speaking world.

Its university was born back in the early Middle Ages,

and ever since the first homework was assigned,

the university of Oxford's graduates

have helped to shape Western civilization.

It brags that its teachers and alumni include

a couple dozen prime ministers,

over 50 Nobel Prize winners, and nearly a dozen saints.

Today, it's a thriving town of 160,000 -- part industry,

part university, and part bedroom community for Londoners.

It's a lively town filled with fun and energy

during both the academic term,

when you'll see students everywhere,

or during summer break.

We're here in July, when tourists outnumber the students.

Like in Cambridge, the river is filled with tourists

still working on their punting skills.

-Oh, we're going to smash.

Ooh. -Ah!

-Oxford's main drag, High Street,

is lined with both shops and colleges.

Again, it's a mix that illustrates

that town-gown division.

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There's been a tension between

the privileged university population

and the hardscrabble regular people of Oxford

for over 800 years.

In fact, it was a town-gown spat back in 1209

that drove a group of professors and students out of Oxford

and to the more welcoming town of Cambridge,

where they helped to found that rival university.

The historic heart of Oxford University

is its Old Schools Quad[rangle].

In the courtyard of its main library,

the quad is surrounded by the university's

first set of purpose-built classrooms

each marked with the original curriculum --

metaphysics, astronomy, music, moral philosophy, and so on.

Oxford, like Cambridge,

is designed on the collegiate system.

While each of the many colleges

nurtures its students in its own way,

the university provides the curriculum,

and while students live and study

and are mentored in their respective colleges,

it's here in the university buildings that they go to class,

are tested, and enjoy the great ceremonial events

that come with being a student at Oxford.

To imagine studying here in the 1400s,

pop into the Divinity School

to see the university's first formal classroom.

Here, under this impressive fan-vaulted ceiling,

the mission of higher education was particularly respected.

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Upstairs is Duke Humphrey's library.

In those days, libraries were placed above classrooms

for maximum sunlight and minimum moisture.

It's a world of books dating back to the Middle Ages

stacked neatly under a painted wooden ceiling.

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Books were considered so precious

that many were actually chained to the desk.

Of course, there are plenty of modern buildings, too.

In a wing of the university's fabled Bodleian Library,

visitors are free to peruse its treasures gallery,

a literary treasure chest

celebrating the genius of Oxford over the centuries.

You'll see a Shakespeare first folio, 18 plays from 1623;

an original score of Handel's "Messiah" written in 1741;

a copy of the Magna Carta from 1217,

when King John was forced

to grant his nobility certain rights,

opening the door to democracy.

It seems this copy was nibbled on by a mouse.

Fancy meal.

♪♪

Across the street is the Museum of the History of Science.

It's filled with scientific equipment

that the scholars of Oxford used to change our world.

There's chemistry, the 18th-century boom

in the study of oxygen and other gases.

Medicine -- after 1850, anesthetics and antiseptics

made major surgery more survivable.

Microscopes helped scholars observe

and tell them unseen worlds.

Science enjoyed the support of England's royalty.

King George III had his own ornate microscope

made of silver in 1770,

and Einstein's chalkboard still features

his hand-scrawled equations from 1931.

Obviously, from the last four lines,

the universe is expanding.

Like at Cambridge, you can visit many of Oxford's colleges.

Magdalen College, where C.S. Lewis taught, is the prettiest.

Established in 1458,

its cloister is a monastic-feeling square

ringed by the dining hall, chapel, and student dorms.

The grounds are meticulously kept,

as if to inspire Magdalen students to excellence.

Christ Church is Oxford's grandest college,

with the most esteemed list of alumni.

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It was founded by King Henry VIII

back in the 16th century on the site of an old monastery.

While it still has a close connection

with the royal family, it's most popular these days

because scenes from the "Harry Potter" movies were filmed here.

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"Harry Potter" fans love the dining hall.

The grand hall, with its splendid hammerbeam ceiling,

is ringed with portraits of alumni gazing down,

as if wondering, "Who is Harry Potter?"

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Oxford or Cambridge? That's the question.

I'd see just one or the other and save time

for something entirely different on your itinerary.

Both are about an hour from London.

Cambridge may be more charming, with its river and gardens.

Oxford is more substantial, with more to see and do.

One plus for Oxford -- it's on the way to our next stop,

Blenheim Palace.

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Blenheim Palace is the Duke of Marlborough's home.

England has plenty of noble palaces in its countryside.

This is my vote for the finest.

Given to the first Duke of Marlborough

for a great military victory,

Blenheim Palace is now home to his descendant,

the 12th Duke of Marlborough, and he welcomes the public,

whose entrance fees help maintain his huge estate.

It's remarkable to think that two

of the most important military victories

in the entire history of Britain,

while two centuries apart, were overseen

by commanders from the same family -- Churchill.

John Churchill, who was the first Duke,

defeated Louis XIV and the French

at the Battle of Blenheim in 1704,

and Winston Churchill, who was born in this palace,

won the Battle of Britain

and helped defeat Hitler in World War II.

In the aptly named Great Hall,

you'll be dwarfed by the grandeur of the palace.

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A long hall leads through a series

of richly decorated state rooms.

These sumptuous rooms are lined with portraits of past dukes.

This is number four and his family.

Photos of the present duke's family

are a reminder that the palace is still lived in.

Several dukes were rocked in this ornate cradle as babies.

Winston Churchill was born in this room in 1874.

His golden locks, first cut when he was 5 years old,

hang above the bed.

The dining room has hosted about 300 years of fancy banquets.

The Blenheim tapestry shows the moment

the French commander surrendered to that first Marlborough,

quite dashing on his white horse.

In the distance, we see the latest artillery,

the carnage of battle, and legions of soldiers.

The remarkable Long Library was, in the 18th century,

one of the finest private libraries in Europe.

It's over seen by Queen Anne, who honored the first duke

by giving him this palace,

which remains in his family to this day.

The palace's enchanting gardens are vast and feel natural,

but the sublime lake and the beautifully landscaped vistas

were carefully planned.

The majestic water terraces were designed to complete

with Versailles.

And they do.

The tea garden is an ideal place from which to ponder it all,

and the Column of Victory,

capped by the first Duke of Marlborough,

oversees everything.

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For a quick getaway, we're heading north on the motorway.

England's excellent motorways

are beautifully engineered and toll-free.

In an hour, we're at one of England's

most entertaining castles.

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Warwick Castle has been turned into a virtual theme park.

It's a hit with families, as from dungeon to lookout,

the enterprising Earl of Warwick

is wringing maximum tourist dollars

out of his castle.

Along with all the entertainment,

there's centuries of history.

The man-made defensive mound is where the original Norman castle

was built in 1068.

Back then, a wooden stockade defined the courtyard

in the way the stony walls do now.

-Hello!

-You can climb the towers and ramble the ramparts.

Today's castle is a 15th-century fortified shell

surrounding a 19th-century noble residence.

Inside, the cavernous Great Hall

is decorated with 16th-century weaponry and dazzling armor.

Imagine 500 years ago,

the pageantry of a jousting tournament.

The elegant state rooms are brought to life by wax figures.

We've dropped in on a royal weekend gala,

and we're going to party like it's 1898.

The countess of Warwick,

considered the most beautiful woman

in Victorian England, greets her guests.

The latest hits are played live.

There's no other way,

and big-name aristocrats have dropped in,

including a young Winston Churchill.

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The castle works to bring the Middle Ages back to life.

Out at the moat, an archer shows off his mastery

of the all-important long bow.

[ Cheers and applause ]

And down by the river, families gather

for a demonstration of a catapult-like weapon

called a trebuchet built from 13th-century drawings.

The crew powers the treadmill,

which raises the six-ton counterweight.

When triggered, this hurls a boulder 200 yards.

[ Indistinct shouting ]

[ Chatter ]

800 years ago,

if this machine rolled up to your castle,

it was a very bad day.

Driving farther north, we head for our last stop.

Leaving the motorway, we do-si-do our way

through a serious of roundabouts.

Britain's roundabouts are fun once you understand them.

Try to merge without stopping

but always yield to drivers already in the circle.

And relax.

If necessary, give yourself a free exploratory loop

to be sure you've got the right exit.

Driving along the sleepy Severn River Valley,

we come to Ironbridge Gorge, named after its iconic bridge,

the first iron bridge ever built.

With the original factories of the Industrial Age

once lining the valley, this is considered

the birthplace of the industrial revolution.

In its glory days, the Severn River Valley

gave the world its first iron wheels,

steam-powered locomotive, and cast-iron bridge.

The museums here take you back to those heady days

when Britain was racing into the modern age

and taking the rest of the West with her.

This bridge was built in 1779,

while England was at war with their American colonies,

to show off a wonderful new building material.

Lacking experience with iron,

they erred on the side of sturdiness.

Just up the valley,

amid the ruins of a mighty industrial plant,

is a memorial built around an invention

that made iron in a revolutionary new way.

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The 19th century was an exciting time.

With new materials and technology,

Europe built more in the 19th century

than in all previous centuries combined.

Within a few decades, the entire continent was laced together

by iron train tracks,

and it all started here with Abraham Darby's blast furnace.

Little remains of Darby's first innovative furnace,

which was built in 1709,

but this made the mass production of iron possible,

which eventually kicked off the modern industrial age.

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The Severn River Valley is full of evocative industrial ruins.

Take the time to walk through these sites,

imagining the way it might have been two centuries ago,

and enjoy the scene as nature slowly reclaims

the site of so much heavy industry.

♪♪

The town of Ironbridge, just a few red-brick blocks

gathered around its bridge, was once a powerhouse.

No longer engulfed in a smoke-belching bustle,

today, it's just a sleepy base from which to explore this area.

Our B&B fills an old mansion, and with advice from our hosts,

we know just where to enjoy a good pub evening.

-See you.

-The Coalbrookdale Inn is a classic neighborhood pub.

"Pub" is short for "public house,"

and it's often where the community gathers.

It's a place where you can feel entirely comfortable

going in alone and striking up conversations.

So this is your "local" here?

-Oh, yeah. Absolutely.

Yeah, yeah. -Yeah.

How long have you been coming here?

-25...

Since the early '90s. -Okay.

So, Andy, if you come into the bar

and you sit at the table, you'll never get served?

-No, you'll never get served all night.

No, no.

No, you have to go the bar and tell them exactly what you want.

-Beers with a long handle and beers with a little short tab:

What's the difference?

-These are fairly traditional real ales,

and the ones with the short handles over there

are the commercial stuff, like, as in lagers and the ciders.

-So with the long handle, they're physically pulling it up

from a keg in the bottom. -Yeah.

It's a mechanical pump. Yeah.

-And if you ask for a "beer,"

you're normally going to get a pint, right?

-Yes, yes.

-Can you ask for a half-pint?

-Yes, you can ask for a half-pint if you want.

-What would you think if I asked for a half-pint?

-I'd think you was a lightweight.

[ Laughter ]

-I think you'd be right.

[ Laughter ]

Of the many museums here in the Valley,

the Blists Hill Victorian Town,

creatively humanizing the age, is my favorite.

You'll wander through a 50-acre industrial site

with a recreated town from the 1890s,

staffed with characters in Victorian dress.

Pop into whatever shop appeals.

We're meeting the candlestick maker.

Repeatedly dipping her candles into the wax,

she reminds us, "There's no rest for the Victorian worker."

Then, she shows off her clever double-wick candle.

-This is a Victorian double-wicked candle.

The flame can jump from wick to wick,

and it won't blow out so easily.

-Around the corner, the printer is hard at work.

Even with ingenious mechanization,

mass-production still required skilled labor.

♪♪

As the engineer fires up a replica

of the first steam-powered locomotive from 1802,

we're reminded that Britain was the workshop of the world

and that the combination of steam power,

iron wheels, and iron tracks

helped propel the British Empire to world dominance.

Today, as industry evolves and this early technology

is eclipsed by our digital and global age,

museums like this help us appreciate the impact

of the relentless march of progress.

♪♪

I hope you've enjoyed our journey through the heart

of England --

royal, intellectual, industrial, and more.

It's the land of many dimensions.

I'm Rick Steves.

Until next time, keep on travelin'.

-This time, we're surrounded by all sorts of co-stars,

navigating our way through Cambridge.

Ciao!

-Ciao! -Ciao!

♪♪

-It's a land of many contrasts

and dimensions and flavors and slices.

Claps. -Claps.

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[ Clap echoes ]

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