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{\an7}Narrator: THE ATLANTIC OCEAN--
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{\an7}HOME TO A HANDFUL OF ISLANDS...
SMALL AND ISOLATED.
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{\an7}MOST AREN’T EVEN VISIBLE
\h\h\h\hON A WORLD MAP.
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00:00:13,213 --> 00:00:18,385
{\an7}YET THEY’RE HOME TO SOME OF
EARTH’S GREATEST TREASURES:
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{\an7}SECLUDED BEACHES...
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{\an7}PROTECTED NESTING GROUNDS...
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00:00:23,557 --> 00:00:27,694
{\an7}AND GEOLOGICAL WONDERS.
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{\an7}\h\h\hTHIS IS A JOURNEY
THROUGH THE ATLANTIC...
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{\an7}TO SOME OF THE MOST SPECTACULAR
PLACES ON EARTH.
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00:00:35,235 --> 00:00:37,637
{\an7}THEY ARE BOTH PLAYGROUNDS...
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00:00:37,671 --> 00:00:39,573
{\an7}AND SANCTUARIES...
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{\an7}[SQUAWKING]
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{\an7}PLACES WHERE SOME SPECIES
\h\h\h\h\h\h\hSTRUGGLE...
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{\an7}AND OTHERS THRIVE.
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{\an7}[HONKING]
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{\an7}WE’LL TREK FROM THE ARCTIC
\h\h\h\h\hTO THE ANTARCTIC
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{\an7}\h\h\hTO DISCOVER THE SECRETS
OF THE WILD ATLANTIC ISLANDS.
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{\an7}[RUMBLING]
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{\an7}♪
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{\an7}\h\hFEW PLACES ON EARTH
REMAIN LARGELY UNTOUCHED
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{\an7}AND UNINHABITED BY HUMANS.
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{\an7}♪
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{\an7}BUT SUCH SPOTS DO EXIST
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{\an7}\h\h\h\h\hIN THE MIDDLE
OF THE ATLANTIC OCEAN--
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{\an7}ISLANDS THOUSANDS OF MILES
\h\h\h\hFROM ANY MAINLAND.
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{\an7}TO EXPLORE EARTH AT ITS WILDEST,
WE TRAVELED THE ATLANTIC
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{\an7}\h\h\h\h\hTO EIGHT ISLANDS
FEW PEOPLE HAVE HEARD OF,
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{\an7}MUCH LESS VISITED.
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{\an7}THEY’RE HARD TO FIND...
\h\h\hHARDER TO REACH...
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{\an7}AND OFTEN DOWNRIGHT FOREBODING.
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{\an7}THESE DISTANT SPOTS ARE KEY
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{\an7}\h\h\hIN UNDERSTANDING
BOTH OUR PLANET’S PAST
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{\an7}AND ITS FUTURE.
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{\an7}\h\h\h\hOUR JOURNEY BEGINS
IN A NATION KNOWN FOR ICE,
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{\an7}BUT BORN FROM FIRE--
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{\an7}ICELAND.
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{\an7}[RUMBLING]
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{\an7}THIS IS THE WORLD’S LARGEST
\h\h\h\h\h\hVOLCANIC ISLAND,
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{\an7}AND ONE OF THE BEST PLACES
\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hON EARTH
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{\an7}TO EXAMINE OUR GEOLOGICAL PAST.
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{\an7}[RUMBLING]
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{\an7}ITS STUNNING LANDSCAPES FORMED
AROUND 20 MILLION YEARS AGO...
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{\an7}\h\h\hWHEN AN UNDERWATER VOLCANO
ERUPTED AND PUSHED THIS LAND UP.
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{\an7}♪
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{\an7}\hTODAY, ICELAND IS
A PLACE OF EXTREMES,
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{\an7}FROM COOL WATERS...
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{\an7}TO GEOTHERMAL FIELDS.
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{\an7}♪
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{\an7}THE ISLAND’S HEAT COMES
\h\h\hFROM ITS LOCATION.
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{\an7}\h\h\hIT’S PART OF A HUGE
UNDERWATER MOUNTAIN RANGE
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{\an7}CALLED THE MID-ATLANTIC RIDGE.
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{\an7}ICELAND IS ONE OF THE FEW PLACES
WHERE THE RIDGE JUTS ABOVE WATER
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{\an7}AND THE ONLY PLACE YOU CAN SEE
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{\an7}THE TECTONIC PLATES
\h\h\hAT ITS HEART.
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{\an7}\hTHE NORTH AMERICAN
AND EURASIAN PLATES,
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{\an7}ON EITHER SIDE OF THIS VALLEY,
\h\h\hARE MOVING APART SLOWLY,
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{\an7}AT ABOUT THE SAME RATE
\h\hFINGERNAILS GROW.
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{\an7}\hBUT THAT SMALL MOVEMENT
HAS MAJOR RIPPLE EFFECTS.
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{\an7}IT CREATES CRACKS
\hDEEP UNDERGROUND
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{\an7}WHERE MAGMA PUSHES UP,
EXPANDING THE VALLEY--
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{\an7}\h\h\h\h\hAND ICELAND--
BY ABOUT AN INCH A YEAR.
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{\an7}[RUMBLING]
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{\an7}THE PLATE MOVEMENT ALSO FUELS
ICELAND’S 30 ACTIVE VOLCANOES.
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{\an7}THERE’S A VOLCANIC EVENT HERE
\h\h\hABOUT EVERY FIVE YEARS.
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{\an7}[RUMBLING]
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{\an7}[BIRDS SQUAWKING]
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{\an7}\hON THE COAST, EVIDENCE
OF ICELAND’S FIERY PAST
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{\an7}IS EVERYWHERE.
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{\an7}BUT HERE, VOLCANIC ROCK
\hSERVES AS A SANCTUARY
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{\an7}FOR THOUSANDS OF SEABIRDS.
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{\an7}\hTHEY FLOCK TO THESE REMOTE
CLIFFS FROM JUNE TO AUGUST,
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{\an7}AS THE ISLAND THAWS.
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{\an7}[SQUAWKING]
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{\an7}THE BIRDS ARE PREY
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{\an7}FOR THE NATION’S ONLY
\hNATIVE LAND MAMMAL--
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{\an7}THE ARCTIC FOX.
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{\an7}THIS MOTHER AND HER CUBS
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{\an7}ARE DIRECT DESCENDANTS
\h\h\hOF THE ICE AGE.
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{\an7}THE FOXES HAVE NO NATURAL
\h\hPREDATORS IN ICELAND--
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00:04:50,657 --> 00:04:55,462
{\an7}YET THEIR NUMBERS ARE DECLINING
FOR THE FIRST TIME IN 35 YEARS.
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{\an7}♪
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{\an7}EXPERTS DON’T KNOW WHY,
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00:05:02,435 --> 00:05:06,406
{\an7}BUT SUSPECT CLIMATE CHANGE,
LACK OF PREY, AND POLLUTION
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{\an7}ARE ALL FACTORS.
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00:05:08,608 --> 00:05:10,043
{\an7}[YIPPING]
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{\an7}THE ANIMALS’ FUTURE
REMAINS UNCERTAIN...
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{\an7}\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hON AN ISLAND
THAT’S LONG BEEN THEIR HOME.
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{\an7}[YIPPING]
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{\an7}5,000 MILES SOUTH OF ICELAND,
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{\an7}\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hANOTHER PART OF
THE MID-ATLANTIC RIDGE SURFACES.
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{\an7}\h\h\hJUST BELOW THE EQUATOR
IN THE SOUTH ATLANTIC OCEAN
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{\an7}IS ASCENSION ISLAND.
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{\an7}\h\h\hTHIS SPECK OF LAND
IS A BRITISH TERRITORY,
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{\an7}WITH A POPULATION OF 800.
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{\an7}THERE ARE ONLY TWO WAYS
\h\h\h\h\hTO GET HERE--
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{\an7}BY BOAT OR MILITARY AIRCRAFT.
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{\an7}\h\hTHE ENTIRE LANDMASS
IS THE TIP OF A VOLCANO,
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{\an7}\h\h\h\h\h\hWHICH EMERGED
ABOUT A MILLION YEARS AGO
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{\an7}IN A MASSIVE ERUPTION.
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{\an7}[ROARING]
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{\an7}♪
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{\an7}THE RED SOIL HERE CONSISTS
\h\h\h\hOF LAVA FRAGMENTS,
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00:06:09,002 --> 00:06:14,975
{\an7}CALLED CLINKER, THAT BAKE
\hIN THE SUBTROPICAL HEAT.
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{\an7}ONE EXPLORER CALLED ASCENSION
"HELL WITH THE FIRES PUT OUT."
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{\an7}TODAY, THE ISLAND
\hOFFERS A WINDOW
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{\an7}INTO MANKIND’S EFFECT ON NATURE.
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{\an7}♪
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{\an7}IN 1836, A YOUNG ENGLISHMAN AND
NATURALIST LANDED ON ASCENSION
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00:06:35,328 --> 00:06:38,164
{\an7}AND NOTED ITS LACK OF TREES.
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00:06:38,198 --> 00:06:40,600
{\an7}HIS NAME WAS CHARLES DARWIN.
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00:06:42,535 --> 00:06:46,372
{\an7}\h\h\hAT THE TIME, ASCENSION
WAS A BLEAK MILITARY OUTPOST
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00:06:46,406 --> 00:06:48,408
{\an7}FOR THE BRITISH NAVY.
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00:06:48,441 --> 00:06:52,645
{\an7}IT WAS ALSO A QUARANTINE SPOT
\h\hFOR SAILORS WITH DISEASES
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00:06:52,679 --> 00:06:55,682
{\an7}LIKE DYSENTERY AND YELLOW FEVER.
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00:06:57,817 --> 00:07:01,054
{\an7}THERE WAS NO FRESH WATER.
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00:07:01,087 --> 00:07:06,459
{\an7}BUT WHERE SOME SAW DESOLATION,
\h\h\hDARWIN SAW POSSIBILITY.
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00:07:06,493 --> 00:07:10,163
{\an7}[WIND WHISTLING]
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{\an7}\h\h\hDARWIN AND HIS FRIEND,
THE BOTANIST JOSEPH HOOKER,
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00:07:14,000 --> 00:07:18,605
{\an7}TEAMED UP TO SOLVE ASCENSION’S
\h\hWATER PROBLEM FOR ENGLAND.
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00:07:18,638 --> 00:07:23,042
{\an7}THEY ADVISED THE NAVY TO CREATE
AN ARTIFICIAL CLOUD FOREST--
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00:07:23,076 --> 00:07:27,247
{\an7}A FOREST THAT TRAPS SEA MIST
\h\h\h\hAND PROVIDES WATER.
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00:07:27,280 --> 00:07:32,318
{\an7}[WIND WHISTLING]
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00:07:32,352 --> 00:07:39,693
{\an7}IN 1857, SAILORS BEGAN PLANTING
AN ODD ASSORTMENT OF TREES--
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00:07:39,726 --> 00:07:43,129
{\an7}FROM BAMBOO TO BANANA TREES--
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{\an7}ON ASCENSION’S HIGHEST POINT.
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{\an7}THEY OPTIMISTICALLY NAMED IT
\h\h\h\h\h\hGREEN MOUNTAIN.
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00:07:51,071 --> 00:07:54,675
{\an7}AMAZINGLY, THE PLAN WORKED.
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00:07:54,708 --> 00:07:56,610
{\an7}LEAVES TRAPPED MOISTURE...
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00:07:56,643 --> 00:08:00,780
{\an7}\h\h\h\hWHICH DRIPPED DOWN
AND PROVIDED FRESH WATER.
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00:08:00,814 --> 00:08:04,451
{\an7}\h\h\hTHE FOREST ALLOWED BRITISH
AND AMERICAN TROOPS TO LIVE HERE
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00:08:04,484 --> 00:08:08,421
{\an7}DURING BOTH WORLD WARS.
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00:08:08,455 --> 00:08:13,360
{\an7}BUT ON ASCENSION, THE SOLDIERS
\h\h\h\hFACED ANOTHER ENEMY--
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00:08:13,393 --> 00:08:14,761
{\an7}THE SOOTY TERN...
134
00:08:14,794 --> 00:08:16,729
{\an7}[CACOPHONY OF SQUAWKING]
135
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{\an7}NICKNAMED THE "WIDEAWAKES"
FOR THEIR NON-STOP NOISE.
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00:08:22,068 --> 00:08:23,703
{\an7}DURING WORLD WAR TWO,
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00:08:23,737 --> 00:08:28,542
{\an7}SOLDIERS EVEN DUBBED A NEARBY
\hAIRFIELD "WIDEAWAKE FIELD."
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00:08:28,575 --> 00:08:30,977
{\an7}[SQUAWKING]
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00:08:31,011 --> 00:08:33,580
{\an7}THE BIRDS DISRUPTED
\hTHE MEN’S SLEEP--
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00:08:33,613 --> 00:08:35,281
{\an7}AND THEIR FLIGHTS--
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00:08:35,315 --> 00:08:39,119
{\an7}OFTEN COLLIDING WITH PLANES
\h\hON TAKEOFF AND LANDING.
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00:08:41,254 --> 00:08:43,656
{\an7}\h\h\hTHE U.S. ARMY
ULTIMATELY RESORTED
143
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{\an7}TO KILLING THOUSANDS OF EGGS.
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00:08:46,126 --> 00:08:49,262
{\an7}[SQUAWKING]
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00:08:49,295 --> 00:08:52,598
{\an7}\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hMORE RECENTLY,
THE BIRDS’ NUMBERS HAVE FALLEN
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{\an7}BECAUSE OF RATS.
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00:08:54,434 --> 00:08:58,104
{\an7}\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hTHE RODENTS,
INTRODUCED BY SHIPS LONG AGO,
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00:08:58,138 --> 00:09:01,475
{\an7}\h\h\h\h\h\h\hDROVE AWAY
MANY BIRD SPECIES HERE--
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00:09:01,508 --> 00:09:06,013
{\an7}\h\h\h\hAS DID CATS, WHICH WERE
BROUGHT IN TO CONTROL THE RATS.
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00:09:10,417 --> 00:09:14,454
{\an7}SEVERAL BIRD SPECIES FLED
\hTO A SPOT JUST OFFSHORE
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00:09:14,487 --> 00:09:18,091
{\an7}CALLED BOATSWAIN BIRD ISLAND.
152
00:09:18,124 --> 00:09:21,561
{\an7}\h\hTHIS 13-ACRE ISLET
HAS BECOME A SANCTUARY
153
00:09:21,594 --> 00:09:24,197
{\an7}FOR TEN SPECIES OF SEABIRDS...
154
00:09:24,230 --> 00:09:26,966
{\an7}[SQUAWKING]
155
00:09:27,000 --> 00:09:31,037
{\an7}\h\h\h\hEACH OF WHICH COLONIZES
A DIFFERENT PART OF THE ISLAND.
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00:09:31,071 --> 00:09:34,041
{\an7}[SQUAWKING]
157
00:09:34,074 --> 00:09:37,778
{\an7}\h\hTHE WHITE FAIRY TERN
INHABITS NARROW LEDGES.
158
00:09:40,613 --> 00:09:45,284
{\an7}THESE ANGELIC-LOOKING BIRDS
\hARE ACTUALLY RISK-TAKERS.
159
00:09:45,318 --> 00:09:50,456
{\an7}\hTHEY LAY THEIR EGGS
DIRECTLY ON THE ROCKS.
160
00:09:50,490 --> 00:09:52,158
{\an7}WHEN A CHICK HATCHES,
161
00:09:52,192 --> 00:09:55,395
{\an7}THE PARENTS STAY CLOSE
\h\h\hFOR A FEW DAYS.
162
00:09:58,598 --> 00:10:02,102
{\an7}THEN THEY START TAKING
FREQUENT FISHING TRIPS
163
00:10:02,135 --> 00:10:05,171
{\an7}TO FEED THEIR YOUNGSTER
\h\h\h\hAND THEMSELVES.
164
00:10:05,205 --> 00:10:12,179
{\an7}[SQUAWKING]
165
00:10:12,212 --> 00:10:17,384
{\an7}\h\h\h\h\h\hTHE TOP OF THE ISLET
IS DOMINATED BY MASKED BOOBIES.
166
00:10:17,417 --> 00:10:20,420
{\an7}THE LONG-WINGED BIRDS
\h\hNEST ON HIGH SPOTS
167
00:10:20,453 --> 00:10:25,158
{\an7}SO THEY CAN MORE EASILY
\h\h\h\h\h\hTAKE FLIGHT.
168
00:10:25,191 --> 00:10:26,659
{\an7}THE SURROUNDING SLOPES
169
00:10:26,693 --> 00:10:30,096
{\an7}ARE HOME TO A BIRD THAT’S MADE
\h\h\h\h\h\hA MAJOR COMEBACK--
170
00:10:30,130 --> 00:10:35,235
{\an7}THE ASCENSION FRIGATEBIRD, KNOWN
FOR ITS RED-THROATED MALES.
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00:10:36,736 --> 00:10:41,174
{\an7}FOR 180 YEARS, THEY LIVED
\h\h\hONLY ON THIS ISLET,
172
00:10:41,207 --> 00:10:44,610
{\an7}\hDRIVEN FROM ASCENSION
BY THE RODENTS AND CATS.
173
00:10:48,081 --> 00:10:53,386
{\an7}\hIN 2006, FERAL CATS WERE
ELIMINATED FROM ASCENSION,
174
00:10:53,419 --> 00:10:56,689
{\an7}\h\hAND THE FRIGATEBIRDS,
ALONG WITH OTHER SEABIRDS,
175
00:10:56,723 --> 00:10:58,725
{\an7}SLOWLY RETURNED.
176
00:11:02,162 --> 00:11:06,166
{\an7}TODAY, THIS IS THE MAIN
SEABIRD NESTING STATION
177
00:11:06,199 --> 00:11:07,600
{\an7}IN THE SOUTH ATLANTIC.
178
00:11:07,634 --> 00:11:09,769
{\an7}[HONKING]
179
00:11:12,739 --> 00:11:17,644
{\an7}ASCENSION ISLAND IS A SAFE HAVEN
FOR A LONG-ENDANGERED SPECIES--
180
00:11:17,677 --> 00:11:20,113
{\an7}THE GREEN SEA TURTLE.
181
00:11:22,148 --> 00:11:25,385
{\an7}THIS FEMALE IS ONE
\h\hOF ABOUT 5,000
182
00:11:25,418 --> 00:11:28,154
{\an7}THAT HEADS TO THE ISLAND
\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hTO NEST.
183
00:11:35,528 --> 00:11:39,465
{\an7}SHE INSTINCTIVELY RETURNS TO
THE BEACH WHERE SHE WAS BORN
184
00:11:39,499 --> 00:11:41,234
{\an7}TO LAY HER OWN EGGS.
185
00:11:45,238 --> 00:11:48,074
{\an7}THE FEMALE HAS TREKKED
\h\h\h\h\h1,200 MILES
186
00:11:48,107 --> 00:11:50,743
{\an7}FROM HER FEEDING GROUNDS
\h\h\h\h\h\hNEAR BRAZIL.
187
00:11:50,777 --> 00:11:54,214
{\an7}♪
188
00:11:54,247 --> 00:11:58,084
{\an7}FOR FIVE CENTURIES, MEN WOULD
\h\hCAMP OUT ON THESE BEACHES
189
00:11:58,117 --> 00:12:03,522
{\an7}\hTO HARVEST THE ANIMALS
AND THEIR EGGS FOR FOOD.
190
00:12:03,556 --> 00:12:07,727
{\an7}THEY’D WATCH THE 700-POUND
\hANIMALS CAREFULLY DIG...
191
00:12:07,760 --> 00:12:14,166
{\an7}♪
192
00:12:14,200 --> 00:12:16,769
{\an7}THEN WAIT AS THE TURTLES NESTED.
193
00:12:16,803 --> 00:12:22,342
{\an7}♪
194
00:12:22,375 --> 00:12:25,578
{\an7}FEMALES LAY AROUND 100 EGGS...
195
00:12:25,612 --> 00:12:33,687
{\an7}♪
196
00:12:33,720 --> 00:12:38,458
{\an7}\h\h\h\h\h\h\hAND SHED TEARS,
A WAY OF EXPELLING SALT WATER.
197
00:12:38,491 --> 00:12:52,972
{\an7}♪
198
00:12:53,006 --> 00:13:03,250
{\an7}♪
199
00:13:03,283 --> 00:13:06,620
{\an7}\h\hAS THE EXHAUSTED MOTHERS
LUMBERED BACK TO THE OCEAN,
200
00:13:06,653 --> 00:13:09,022
{\an7}HUNTERS WOULD POUNCE--
201
00:13:09,055 --> 00:13:14,494
{\an7}\h\h\hFLIPPING THE ANIMALS AND
TRAPPING THEM ON THEIR BACKS.
202
00:13:14,527 --> 00:13:18,197
{\an7}\h\h\hHARVESTERS KILLED UP TO
A THOUSAND TURTLES EACH YEAR--
203
00:13:18,231 --> 00:13:22,035
{\an7}UNTIL THE PRACTICE WAS BANNED
\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hIN THE 1930s.
204
00:13:22,068 --> 00:13:31,477
{\an7}♪
205
00:13:31,511 --> 00:13:33,079
{\an7}IT TOOK 40 YEARS
206
00:13:33,112 --> 00:13:39,051
{\an7}FOR THE GREEN SEA TURTLES HERE
\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hTO REBOUND.
207
00:13:39,085 --> 00:13:40,720
{\an7}TODAY, ASCENSION HAS
208
00:13:40,753 --> 00:13:44,624
{\an7}THE SECOND LARGEST COLONY
\h\hIN THE ATLANTIC OCEAN.
209
00:13:44,657 --> 00:13:57,170
{\an7}♪
210
00:13:57,203 --> 00:14:03,376
{\an7}\h\hHUNDREDS OF TURTLES NOW BURY
MILLIONS OF EGGS HERE EACH YEAR,
211
00:14:03,409 --> 00:14:06,679
{\an7}WITH EACH FEMALE NESTING
\h\h\hUP TO SEVEN TIMES.
212
00:14:06,713 --> 00:14:19,960
{\an7}♪
213
00:14:19,992 --> 00:14:25,297
{\an7}♪
214
00:14:25,331 --> 00:14:29,569
{\an7}TWO MONTHS AFTER THE MOTHERS
\h\h\hLEAVE, THE EGGS HATCH.
215
00:14:29,602 --> 00:14:40,980
{\an7}♪
216
00:14:41,013 --> 00:14:52,625
{\an7}♪
217
00:14:52,658 --> 00:14:57,096
{\an7}THEIR SHELLS ATTRACT SCAVENGERS
CALLED SALLY LIGHTFOOTS.
218
00:14:57,130 --> 00:15:01,167
{\an7}♪
219
00:15:01,200 --> 00:15:05,504
{\an7}AT LOW TIDE, THEY COMB THE BEACH
FOR ANYTHING EDIBLE.
220
00:15:05,538 --> 00:15:13,379
{\an7}♪
221
00:15:13,413 --> 00:15:16,016
{\an7}AS THE CRABS CLEAN UP,
222
00:15:16,048 --> 00:15:20,019
{\an7}THE BABY TURTLES INSTINCTIVELY
\h\h\h\hHEAD TOWARD THE OCEAN.
223
00:15:20,052 --> 00:15:24,156
{\an7}♪
224
00:15:24,190 --> 00:15:26,559
{\an7}OUT OF EVERY THOUSAND
\h\h\h\h\hHATCHLINGS,
225
00:15:26,592 --> 00:15:29,495
{\an7}ONLY ONE WILL LIVE TO ADULTHOOD.
226
00:15:32,198 --> 00:15:35,735
{\an7}\h\h\h\h\h\h\hTHOSE THAT DO
WILL RETURN TO THIS BEACH...
227
00:15:35,768 --> 00:15:38,404
{\an7}TO MAKE NESTS OF THEIR OWN.
228
00:15:53,486 --> 00:15:55,488
{\an7}THROUGHOUT ASCENSION’S HISTORY,
229
00:15:55,521 --> 00:15:58,157
{\an7}\h\h\h\h\h\h\hONE THING
HAS REMAINED CONSTANT--
230
00:15:58,191 --> 00:16:00,960
{\an7}THE LAND CRABS.
231
00:16:00,993 --> 00:16:04,964
{\an7}\hFOR THOUSANDS OF YEARS, THEY
WERE THE LARGEST ANIMALS HERE,
232
00:16:04,997 --> 00:16:07,700
{\an7}THOUGH NO ONE KNOWS
\hHOW THEY ARRIVED,
233
00:16:07,733 --> 00:16:10,002
{\an7}SINCE THEY CAN’T SWIM.
234
00:16:11,804 --> 00:16:14,106
{\an7}EVERY YEAR, THE FEMALES BULK UP
235
00:16:14,140 --> 00:16:19,012
{\an7}FOR ONE OF NATURE’S
\hTOUGHEST TREKS...
236
00:16:19,045 --> 00:16:20,380
{\an7}A HALF-MILE JOURNEY
237
00:16:20,413 --> 00:16:24,651
{\an7}\h\hFROM THE MOUNTAINS
TO THE SHORE TO NEST.
238
00:16:24,684 --> 00:16:28,121
{\an7}\h\h\h\h\hIT’S TOO HOT TO MAKE
THE DESCENT DURING THE DAY...
239
00:16:28,154 --> 00:16:30,757
{\an7}SO THE FEMALES WAIT
\h\h\hFOR NIGHTFALL.
240
00:16:34,293 --> 00:16:36,762
{\an7}EVEN THEN, IT’S SLOW GOING.
241
00:16:40,500 --> 00:16:43,803
{\an7}IT TAKES THEM A FULL WEEK
\h\h\hTO REACH THE WATER.
242
00:16:47,406 --> 00:16:50,576
{\an7}NEXT, THE ANIMALS WAIT
\h\h\h\h\hFOR A WAVE--
243
00:16:50,610 --> 00:16:52,745
{\an7}TO SHAKE OUT THEIR EGGS.
244
00:16:52,778 --> 00:16:58,050
{\an7}♪
245
00:16:58,084 --> 00:17:02,355
{\an7}FOR THESE NON-SWIMMERS,
\hTIMING IS EVERYTHING.
246
00:17:02,388 --> 00:17:07,593
{\an7}♪
247
00:17:10,563 --> 00:17:15,735
{\an7}AFTERWARDS, THE FEMALES MAKE
\h\h\h\hTHE SLOW TREK BACK.
248
00:17:15,768 --> 00:17:19,705
{\an7}IN THREE WEEKS, THEIR BABIES
\hWILL EMERGE FROM THE OCEAN
249
00:17:19,739 --> 00:17:22,041
{\an7}AND HEAD HOME.
250
00:17:25,278 --> 00:17:28,314
{\an7}\h\h\h\h\h\hTRAVELING SOUTH
DOWN THE MID-ATLANTIC RIDGE
251
00:17:28,347 --> 00:17:32,251
{\an7}IS AN ISLAND GROUP EVEN MORE
\h\hREMOTE THAN ASCENSION--
252
00:17:32,285 --> 00:17:34,687
{\an7}TRISTAN DA CUNHA.
253
00:17:34,720 --> 00:17:38,691
{\an7}THIS BRITISH TERRITORY NAMED
AFTER A PORTUGUESE EXPLORER
254
00:17:38,724 --> 00:17:41,560
{\an7}ALSO SITS IN THE SOUTH ATLANTIC.
255
00:17:41,594 --> 00:17:46,265
{\an7}ITS FOUR ISLANDS ARE THE TIPS
\h\hOF UNDERWATER VOLCANOES--
256
00:17:46,299 --> 00:17:49,969
{\an7}\h\hALL IN THE PATH
OF RELENTLESS WINDS
257
00:17:50,002 --> 00:17:52,605
{\an7}KNOWN AS "THE ROARING FORTIES."
258
00:17:55,775 --> 00:17:58,344
{\an7}\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hTHEY MAKE
THE SEVEN-DAY BOAT RIDE HERE
259
00:17:58,377 --> 00:18:01,113
{\an7}AN ADVENTURE IN AND OF ITSELF.
260
00:18:07,253 --> 00:18:10,456
{\an7}THE FIERCE WINDS BRING
WHITECAPS AND RAIN...
261
00:18:10,489 --> 00:18:13,325
{\an7}\hUP TO THREE WEEKS
OUT OF EVERY MONTH.
262
00:18:17,196 --> 00:18:21,000
{\an7}\h\h\h\hTRISTAN IS THE WORLD’S
MOST REMOTE INHABITED ISLAND.
263
00:18:26,005 --> 00:18:30,042
{\an7}\h\h\hITS SINGLE VILLAGE
HAS A POPULATION OF 262.
264
00:18:32,511 --> 00:18:35,981
{\an7}\h\h\h\hTHE SETTLEMENT SITS
BENEATH QUEEN MARY’S PEAK--
265
00:18:36,015 --> 00:18:38,251
{\an7}THE VOLCANIC SUMMIT.
266
00:18:43,322 --> 00:18:46,292
{\an7}IT LAST ERUPTED IN 1961,
267
00:18:46,325 --> 00:18:49,195
{\an7}FORCING FAMILIES HERE
\h\h\h\h\hTO EVACUATE.
268
00:18:49,228 --> 00:18:54,266
{\an7}♪
269
00:18:54,300 --> 00:18:57,537
{\an7}TWO YEARS LATER, THEY RETURNED
\h\h\h\h\hTO THE FARMING LIFE
270
00:18:57,570 --> 00:19:00,306
{\an7}THAT DOMINATES TRISTAN.
271
00:19:00,339 --> 00:19:02,274
{\an7}THE MAIN CROP IS POTATOES,
272
00:19:02,308 --> 00:19:05,144
{\an7}\h\h\h\hWHICH THRIVE
IN THE VOLCANIC ASH.
273
00:19:05,177 --> 00:19:10,282
{\an7}[BIRDS CALLING]
274
00:19:10,316 --> 00:19:13,386
{\an7}HERE, NATURE EVOLVES
\h\h\hAROUND HUMANS
275
00:19:13,419 --> 00:19:16,656
{\an7}IN UNEXPECTED WAYS.
276
00:19:16,689 --> 00:19:20,560
{\an7}\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hTRISTAN IS HOME
TO SEVEN SPECIES OF LAND BIRDS--
277
00:19:20,593 --> 00:19:23,963
{\an7}INCLUDING THESE FINCHES.
278
00:19:23,996 --> 00:19:26,298
{\an7}\h\hTHEY ORIGINATED
FROM SOUTH AMERICA--
279
00:19:26,332 --> 00:19:29,569
{\an7}2,000 MILES AWAY.
280
00:19:29,602 --> 00:19:34,974
{\an7}BUT ON TRISTAN, THEY’VE CHANGED,
EVOLVING INTO DIFFERENT SPECIES,
281
00:19:35,007 --> 00:19:39,211
{\an7}\h\hEACH WITH A BILL ADAPTED
FOR A SPECIFIC KIND OF SEED.
282
00:19:41,414 --> 00:19:44,584
{\an7}\h\h\h\hANOTHER LAND BIRD,
CALLED THE TRISTAN THRUSH,
283
00:19:44,617 --> 00:19:49,655
{\an7}HAS CHANGED FROM AN HERBIVORE
\h\h\h\h\h\h\hTO A CARNIVORE.
284
00:19:49,689 --> 00:19:54,527
{\an7}[PENGUINS BRAYING]
285
00:19:54,560 --> 00:19:57,163
{\an7}\h\h\h\h\h\hTHE BIRDS LURK
AROUND TRISTAN’S COLONIES
286
00:19:57,196 --> 00:19:59,632
{\an7}OF NORTHERN ROCKHOPPER PENGUINS.
287
00:20:01,534 --> 00:20:05,204
{\an7}THEY PECK AT THE LARGER BIRDS’
\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hOPEN WOUNDS...
288
00:20:05,237 --> 00:20:07,439
{\an7}AND DRINK THEIR BLOOD.
289
00:20:07,473 --> 00:20:10,743
{\an7}[BRAYING]
290
00:20:10,776 --> 00:20:23,455
{\an7}♪
291
00:20:23,489 --> 00:20:25,224
{\an7}[HONKING]
292
00:20:25,257 --> 00:20:31,697
{\an7}♪
293
00:20:31,731 --> 00:20:33,700
{\an7}[BRAYING]
294
00:20:33,733 --> 00:20:38,504
{\an7}\h\h\h\hIT’S A STARK EXAMPLE
OF SURVIVAL OF THE FITTEST.
295
00:20:38,537 --> 00:20:43,175
{\an7}[BRAYING]
296
00:20:43,209 --> 00:20:46,012
{\an7}\h\h\h\h\h\h\hTRISTAN DA CUNHA
HAS THE WORLD’S LARGEST NUMBER
297
00:20:46,045 --> 00:20:48,481
{\an7}OF NORTHERN ROCKHOPPER PENGUINS,
298
00:20:48,514 --> 00:20:51,017
{\an7}WHICH HOP RATHER THAN WADDLE.
299
00:20:53,452 --> 00:20:55,688
{\an7}BUT THE SPECIES IS IN TROUBLE.
300
00:20:55,721 --> 00:21:00,392
{\an7}THEIR POPULATION HAS DECREASED
\h\h\h\h\h90% SINCE THE 1950s.
301
00:21:02,995 --> 00:21:04,497
{\an7}THE BIGGEST THREAT TO THEM
302
00:21:04,530 --> 00:21:09,335
{\an7}USED TO BE HUNTERS SEEKING
THEIR DECORATIVE FEATHERS.
303
00:21:09,368 --> 00:21:13,439
{\an7}\h\h\h\hTODAY, THE CULPRITS ARE
CLIMATE CHANGE AND OVERFISHING,
304
00:21:13,472 --> 00:21:15,374
{\an7}WHICH HAS CUT DOWN
\hTHE FOOD SUPPLY
305
00:21:15,407 --> 00:21:19,378
{\an7}\h\h\h\h\hFOR BOTH THE PENGUINS
AND ANOTHER TRISTAN RESIDENT...
306
00:21:22,114 --> 00:21:24,550
{\an7}THE SUBANTARCTIC FUR SEAL.
307
00:21:25,451 --> 00:21:29,555
{\an7}[PUPS CRYING]
308
00:21:29,588 --> 00:21:32,491
{\an7}\h\h\hTHESE PUPS LIVE IN ONE
OF SEVERAL BREEDING COLONIES
309
00:21:32,525 --> 00:21:35,128
{\an7}THAT HAVE RE-EMERGED ON TRISTAN.
310
00:21:37,329 --> 00:21:39,164
{\an7}[WARBLING]
311
00:21:41,500 --> 00:21:45,170
{\an7}THE SPECIES WAS ONCE PUSHED
TO THE BRINK OF EXTINCTION,
312
00:21:45,204 --> 00:21:49,775
{\an7}\hLARGELY BY SEALERS
FROM NORTH AMERICA.
313
00:21:49,809 --> 00:21:52,178
{\an7}IN THE 17- AND 1800s,
314
00:21:52,211 --> 00:21:54,680
{\an7}\h\h\hHUNTERS SLAUGHTERED
THOUSANDS OF THESE ANIMALS
315
00:21:54,713 --> 00:21:56,715
{\an7}FOR THEIR THICK PELTS.
316
00:22:00,019 --> 00:22:02,622
{\an7}THE PRACTICE STOPPED
IN THE 20th CENTURY
317
00:22:02,655 --> 00:22:06,492
{\an7}WHEN THE SPECIES EARNED
\hWIDESPREAD PROTECTION.
318
00:22:06,525 --> 00:22:08,560
{\an7}[BELLOWING]
319
00:22:08,594 --> 00:22:12,098
{\an7}\h\h\hHUNDREDS OF PUPS
NOW THRIVE ON TRISTAN.
320
00:22:14,099 --> 00:22:16,001
{\an7}[BELLOWING]
321
00:22:16,035 --> 00:22:21,374
{\an7}♪
322
00:22:21,407 --> 00:22:23,476
{\an7}THE ANIMALS LINE
THE ROCKY SHORES
323
00:22:23,509 --> 00:22:26,312
{\an7}DURING BREEDING SEASON
\h\h\h\h\h\hEACH FALL.
324
00:22:30,683 --> 00:22:33,586
{\an7}BUT THEY’RE MOST AT HOME
\h\h\h\h\hIN THE WATER.
325
00:22:33,619 --> 00:22:44,463
{\an7}♪
326
00:22:44,496 --> 00:22:47,299
{\an7}MOTHERS HUNT ALONE...
327
00:22:47,333 --> 00:22:49,001
{\an7}OR IN GROUPS...
328
00:22:49,034 --> 00:22:52,971
{\an7}FORTIFYING THEMSELVES TO NURSE
\h\hTHEIR PUPS BACK ON SHORE.
329
00:22:53,005 --> 00:23:01,580
{\an7}♪
330
00:23:01,614 --> 00:23:15,161
{\an7}♪
331
00:23:15,194 --> 00:23:19,765
{\an7}\h\hTHESE MASTER DIVERS
CAN PLUNGE UP TO 60 FEET
332
00:23:19,798 --> 00:23:22,734
{\an7}AND HOLD THEIR BREATH
\h\hFOR FOUR MINUTES.
333
00:23:22,768 --> 00:23:35,114
{\an7}♪
334
00:23:35,147 --> 00:23:37,783
{\an7}\h\hTHE WATERS HERE
ARE RICH WITH FOOD,
335
00:23:37,816 --> 00:23:42,721
{\an7}SINCE COMMERCIAL FISHING
\h\h\h\h\h\h\hIS BANNED.
336
00:23:42,755 --> 00:23:46,659
{\an7}\h\h\h\h\h\hTHE SEALS USE THEIR
SHARP EYESIGHT AND KEEN HEARING
337
00:23:46,692 --> 00:23:49,161
{\an7}TO TRACK DOWN FISH AND KRILL.
338
00:23:49,194 --> 00:23:56,201
{\an7}♪
339
00:23:56,235 --> 00:24:01,006
{\an7}\h\hTHESE PROTECTED WATERS
ALSO TEEM WITH PLANT LIFE.
340
00:24:01,040 --> 00:24:04,176
{\an7}\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hOCEAN CURRENTS,
ALONG WITH THE ROARING FORTIES,
341
00:24:04,209 --> 00:24:07,345
{\an7}\h\hSTIR UP SEDIMENT
DEEP UNDERGROUND...
342
00:24:07,379 --> 00:24:10,616
{\an7}WHICH FEEDS TOWERING FORESTS
\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hOF KELP.
343
00:24:16,588 --> 00:24:19,658
{\an7}THIS IS HOME TO TRISTAN’S
\h\h\hMOST ABUNDANT FISH,
344
00:24:19,692 --> 00:24:23,396
{\an7}CALLED THE FIVE-FINGERS...
345
00:24:23,429 --> 00:24:25,698
{\an7}\h\h\h\h\h\h\hALONG WITH
A COLOR-STREAKED SPECIES
346
00:24:25,731 --> 00:24:28,200
{\an7}NAMED THE TRISTAN WRASSE.
347
00:24:28,233 --> 00:24:34,573
{\an7}♪
348
00:24:34,606 --> 00:24:36,741
{\an7}THE SCHOOLS OF FISH
\h\h\hAROUND TRISTAN
349
00:24:36,775 --> 00:24:42,114
{\an7}FEED 25 SPECIES OF SEABIRDS--
350
00:24:42,147 --> 00:24:45,984
{\an7}\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hINCLUDING
YELLOW-NOSED ALBATROSSES.
351
00:24:46,018 --> 00:24:51,957
{\an7}♪
352
00:24:51,991 --> 00:24:55,161
{\an7}[SQUAWKING]
353
00:24:55,194 --> 00:25:01,100
{\an7}THEY’RE FOUND THROUGHOUT
\h\hTHE SOUTH ATLANTIC,
354
00:25:01,133 --> 00:25:04,637
{\an7}BUT TRISTAN IS THE ONLY PLACE
\h\h\h\h\h\h\hTHAT THEY NEST.
355
00:25:07,206 --> 00:25:10,242
{\an7}IN AUGUST, THE BIRDS
BEGIN MOVING INLAND
356
00:25:10,275 --> 00:25:13,745
{\an7}TO TRISTAN’S VOLCANIC PEAK.
357
00:25:13,779 --> 00:25:16,515
{\an7}HERE, AMONG DWARF TREE FERNS,
358
00:25:16,548 --> 00:25:21,586
{\an7}\hTHE ALBATROSSES
BUILD THEIR NESTS.
359
00:25:21,620 --> 00:25:27,326
{\an7}\hPAIRS ARE MONOGAMOUS AND OFTEN
RETURN TO THE SAME NESTING SITE.
360
00:25:27,359 --> 00:25:32,497
{\an7}♪
361
00:25:32,531 --> 00:25:35,968
{\an7}\h\h\hTOGETHER, THEY CARE
FOR A SINGLE BABY BIRD...
362
00:25:36,001 --> 00:25:39,137
{\an7}[SQUEAKING]
363
00:25:39,171 --> 00:25:42,041
{\an7}TAKING TURNS FISHING,
\h\h\h\hTHEN FEEDING.
364
00:25:42,074 --> 00:25:52,051
{\an7}♪
365
00:25:52,084 --> 00:25:55,254
{\an7}BY SPRING, THEIR CHICK
\hWILL LEAVE THE NEST
366
00:25:55,287 --> 00:25:59,124
{\an7}AND WON’T RETURN TO LAND
\h\h\h\hFOR FIVE YEARS.
367
00:25:59,158 --> 00:26:02,695
{\an7}♪
368
00:26:02,728 --> 00:26:04,563
{\an7}[SQUAWKING]
369
00:26:04,596 --> 00:26:06,598
{\an7}IN THE EVENINGS ON TRISTAN,
370
00:26:06,632 --> 00:26:11,437
{\an7}A RELATIVE OF THE ALBATROSS
\h\h\h\h\hGATHERS OFFSHORE--
371
00:26:11,470 --> 00:26:14,006
{\an7}THE GREAT SHEARWATERS.
372
00:26:16,809 --> 00:26:19,578
{\an7}THESE BIRDS ARE COMMON
\h\h\hIN NORTH AMERICA
373
00:26:19,611 --> 00:26:23,215
{\an7}\h\h\h\h\hBUT ONLY BREED
ON THESE REMOTE ISLANDS.
374
00:26:25,284 --> 00:26:29,355
{\an7}MILLIONS DESCEND ON TRISTAN
\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hEACH YEAR.
375
00:26:29,388 --> 00:26:32,358
{\an7}\h\hTHE BIRDS SPEND
THEIR DAYS FISHING.
376
00:26:35,394 --> 00:26:38,964
{\an7}\h\h\h\h\h\hWHEN NIGHT FALLS,
THEY’LL RETURN TO THEIR NESTS
377
00:26:38,997 --> 00:26:43,735
{\an7}\h\h\hAND FEED THEIR YOUNG
UNTIL THE SUN RISES AGAIN.
378
00:26:50,609 --> 00:26:53,212
{\an7}MOVING FURTHER SOUTH
\hIN THE ATLANTIC...
379
00:26:53,245 --> 00:26:55,314
{\an7}\h\hTOWARDS THE TIP
OF SOUTH AMERICA...
380
00:26:55,347 --> 00:26:57,983
{\an7}ARE THE FALKLAND ISLANDS.
381
00:26:58,016 --> 00:27:00,619
{\an7}\h\hTHE CHAIN CONSISTS
OF TWO MAIN ISLANDS--
382
00:27:00,652 --> 00:27:02,454
{\an7}EAST AND WEST--
383
00:27:02,488 --> 00:27:05,324
{\an7}ALONG WITH HUNDREDS
\h\hOF SMALLER ONES.
384
00:27:10,162 --> 00:27:14,967
{\an7}\h\hTODAY THIS REMOTE CHAIN IS
BEST KNOWN FOR ITS DIVERSITY.
385
00:27:15,000 --> 00:27:21,039
{\an7}♪
386
00:27:21,073 --> 00:27:24,376
{\an7}COMMERSON’S DOLPHINS PLAY
\h\h\h\h\h\hIN THE SURF...
387
00:27:24,409 --> 00:27:32,317
{\an7}♪
388
00:27:32,351 --> 00:27:36,021
{\an7}WHILE ON THE BEACH,
\h\h\hBIRDS ABOUND.
389
00:27:36,054 --> 00:27:43,461
{\an7}[CHIRPING]
390
00:27:43,495 --> 00:27:46,665
{\an7}FIVE DIFFERENT KINDS OF PENGUINS
LIVE HERE,
391
00:27:46,698 --> 00:27:49,000
{\an7}INCLUDING THE GENTOO.
392
00:27:52,404 --> 00:27:56,208
{\an7}THE FALKLANDS HAVE THE LARGEST
\hGENTOO POPULATION ON EARTH--
393
00:27:56,241 --> 00:27:59,444
{\an7}MORE THAN 120,000 PAIRS.
394
00:27:59,478 --> 00:28:05,517
{\an7}[SQUAWKING]
395
00:28:05,551 --> 00:28:09,522
{\an7}\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hDURING THE DAY,
THE BIRDS BUSILY FISH ON SHORE.
396
00:28:14,193 --> 00:28:15,961
{\an7}[HONKING]
397
00:28:15,994 --> 00:28:22,968
{\an7}♪
398
00:28:23,001 --> 00:28:27,205
{\an7}\h\hTHEN, IN THE EVENING, THEY
WADDLE INLAND TO THEIR NESTS.
399
00:28:30,209 --> 00:28:34,013
{\an7}FOR A TWO-FOOT-TALL PENGUIN,
\h\h\h\h\hIT’S A LONG HAUL.
400
00:28:36,682 --> 00:28:38,284
{\an7}[HONKING]
401
00:28:38,317 --> 00:28:42,454
{\an7}\h\h\hTHERE ARE MORE THAN 230
BIRD SPECIES IN THE FALKLANDS.
402
00:28:42,487 --> 00:28:45,957
{\an7}[SQUAWKING]
403
00:28:45,991 --> 00:28:50,496
{\an7}\h\h\hTHE ISLANDS ARE HOME
TO THE STRIATED CARACARA,
404
00:28:50,529 --> 00:28:53,365
{\an7}THE WORLD’S SOUTHERNMOST
\h\h\h\h\hBIRD OF PREY.
405
00:28:53,398 --> 00:28:57,235
{\an7}[SCREECHING]
406
00:28:59,037 --> 00:29:03,141
{\an7}THIS AREA IS ALSO POPULAR WITH
SOUTHERN ROCKHOPPER PENGUINS--
407
00:29:03,175 --> 00:29:05,811
{\an7}\h\h\hCLOSE RELATIVES
OF THE NORTHERN ONES.
408
00:29:08,213 --> 00:29:10,582
{\an7}BUT THE SHOW STOPPERS
\h\h\hON THE FALKLANDS
409
00:29:10,616 --> 00:29:13,619
{\an7}ARE THE BLACK-BROWED
\h\h\hALBATROSSES--
410
00:29:13,652 --> 00:29:17,156
{\an7}NAMED FOR THE FAINT BLACK BROW
\h\h\h\h\h\h\hOVER THEIR EYES.
411
00:29:17,189 --> 00:29:22,494
{\an7}[SQUEAKING]
412
00:29:22,527 --> 00:29:26,598
{\an7}TWO-THIRDS OF THE WORLD’S
\h\hPOPULATION NEST HERE--
413
00:29:26,632 --> 00:29:29,201
{\an7}AROUND A MILLION BIRDS.
414
00:29:29,234 --> 00:29:32,971
{\an7}[CHIRPING AND SQUAWKING]
415
00:29:33,005 --> 00:29:42,448
{\an7}♪
416
00:29:42,481 --> 00:29:51,690
{\an7}♪
417
00:29:51,723 --> 00:29:56,595
{\an7}\hTHE SEABIRDS OFTEN MIX WITH
THE LOCAL PENGUIN POPULATION--
418
00:29:56,628 --> 00:29:59,664
{\an7}BOTH PEACEFULLY...
419
00:29:59,698 --> 00:30:03,168
{\an7}AND NOT SO PEACEFULLY.
420
00:30:03,201 --> 00:30:09,174
{\an7}[SQUAWKING]
421
00:30:09,207 --> 00:30:11,976
{\an7}♪
422
00:30:12,010 --> 00:30:17,215
{\an7}[SQUAWKING]
423
00:30:17,249 --> 00:30:25,324
{\an7}♪
424
00:30:29,695 --> 00:30:35,434
{\an7}\hWHEN NESTING SEASON ENDS,
THE ALBATROSSES TAKE FLIGHT.
425
00:30:35,467 --> 00:30:39,604
{\an7}\h\hTHEIR SEVEN-FOOT WINGSPAN
MAKES FOR AWKWARD TAKEOFFS...
426
00:30:39,638 --> 00:30:44,576
{\an7}[SQUAWKING]
427
00:30:44,609 --> 00:30:46,578
{\an7}BUT EASY FLIGHT.
428
00:30:46,611 --> 00:30:49,581
{\an7}THE EXPERT GLIDERS
CAN FLY FOR HOURS
429
00:30:49,614 --> 00:30:52,183
{\an7}WITHOUT A SINGLE WINGBEAT.
430
00:30:52,217 --> 00:30:58,223
{\an7}♪
431
00:30:58,256 --> 00:30:59,958
{\an7}BY RIDING AIR CURRENTS,
432
00:30:59,991 --> 00:31:03,962
{\an7}THEY TRAVEL THOUSANDS OF MILES
\h\h\h\h\hWITH MINIMAL EFFORT.
433
00:31:03,995 --> 00:31:07,265
{\an7}[SQUAWKING]
434
00:31:07,299 --> 00:31:12,504
{\an7}\h\hAND EACH FALL, THEY RETURN
TO THIS FAMILIAR SPOT TO NEST.
435
00:31:12,537 --> 00:31:17,642
{\an7}♪
436
00:31:17,676 --> 00:31:22,514
{\an7}THE FALKLANDS’ TWO MAIN ISLANDS
SIT AMONG 200 SMALLER ONES.
437
00:31:24,316 --> 00:31:28,120
{\an7}ON MANY, TUSSOCKS OF GRASS
\hHIDE THE NESTING GROUNDS
438
00:31:28,153 --> 00:31:30,989
{\an7}FOR SEABIRDS CALLED
\hSOOTY SHEARWATERS.
439
00:31:35,727 --> 00:31:39,998
{\an7}\h\h\h\hLIKE GREAT SHEARWATERS,
THESE BIRDS FISH DURING THE DAY
440
00:31:40,031 --> 00:31:43,001
{\an7}AND RETURN TO LAND AT NIGHT.
441
00:31:45,670 --> 00:31:50,542
{\an7}SOOTY SHEARWATERS ARE AMONG THE
WORLD’S MOST ABUNDANT SEABIRDS.
442
00:31:50,575 --> 00:31:55,146
{\an7}BUT EXPERTS SAY THEIR POPULATION
IS DECREASING.
443
00:31:55,180 --> 00:31:57,983
{\an7}THEIR YOUNG ARE HARVESTED
\h\h\h\h\hBY THE THOUSANDS
444
00:31:58,016 --> 00:32:00,652
{\an7}FOR FOOD, SOAP, AND OIL.
445
00:32:02,988 --> 00:32:07,493
{\an7}IN THE FALKLANDS, SKIES THAT
ONCE TURNED BLACK WITH BIRDS
446
00:32:07,526 --> 00:32:10,295
{\an7}\h\h\h\h\hARE BECOMING
LESS AND LESS CROWDED.
447
00:32:10,328 --> 00:32:12,130
{\an7}[SQUAWKING]
448
00:32:15,534 --> 00:32:19,004
{\an7}\h\h\hMOVING A THOUSAND MILES
SOUTHEAST OF THE FALKLANDS...
449
00:32:19,037 --> 00:32:23,408
{\an7}\h\h\h\h\h\hTHE WINDS PICK UP,
AND THE TEMPERATURE PLUMMETS.
450
00:32:23,442 --> 00:32:27,346
{\an7}\hTHIS ICY CLIMATE IS HOME
TO SOUTH GEORGIA ISLAND--
451
00:32:27,379 --> 00:32:31,283
{\an7}A BRITISH TERRITORY MADE FAMOUS
BY ERNEST SHACKLETON.
452
00:32:35,987 --> 00:32:39,057
{\an7}IN 1916, SHACKLETON
\h\h\hVENTURED HERE
453
00:32:39,090 --> 00:32:41,726
{\an7}TO SAVE THE CREW OF HIS SHIP
\h\h\h\h\h\h\hTHE ENDURANCE,
454
00:32:41,760 --> 00:32:45,564
{\an7}WHICH WAS CRUSHED BY ICE.
455
00:32:45,597 --> 00:32:49,534
{\an7}SHACKLETON TRAVERSED GLACIERS
\hTO REACH A WHALING STATION,
456
00:32:49,568 --> 00:32:51,570
{\an7}WHERE HE LAUNCHED
A RESCUE MISSION.
457
00:32:51,603 --> 00:32:54,106
{\an7}[CHIRPING]
458
00:32:54,139 --> 00:32:55,374
{\an7}[HONKING]
459
00:32:55,407 --> 00:32:59,444
{\an7}\h\hTODAY SOUTH GEORGIA
IS UNINHABITED BY PEOPLE
460
00:32:59,478 --> 00:33:01,246
{\an7}BUT PACKED WITH WILDLIFE...
461
00:33:01,279 --> 00:33:03,615
{\an7}[HONKING]
462
00:33:03,648 --> 00:33:06,784
{\an7}THE GREATEST DENSITY ON EARTH.
463
00:33:06,818 --> 00:33:11,556
{\an7}\h\h\hFUR SEALS MINGLE
WITH GENTOO PENGUINS--
464
00:33:11,590 --> 00:33:16,128
{\an7}\h\hBOTH OF WHICH SHACKLETON
AND HIS CREW ATE TO SURVIVE.
465
00:33:17,596 --> 00:33:20,332
{\an7}[GRUNTING]
466
00:33:22,400 --> 00:33:25,503
{\an7}TODAY THE HUNTERS
ARE GIANT PETRELS,
467
00:33:25,537 --> 00:33:27,773
{\an7}INFAMOUS FOR THEIR GLUTTONY.
468
00:33:30,475 --> 00:33:34,546
{\an7}[SQUAWKING]
469
00:33:34,579 --> 00:33:38,583
{\an7}\h\h\hBUT THE BEHEMOTHS HERE
ARE SOUTHERN ELEPHANT SEALS.
470
00:33:38,617 --> 00:33:42,488
{\an7}[BELLOWING]
471
00:33:42,521 --> 00:33:44,023
{\an7}THESE BULLS ARE FIGHTING
472
00:33:44,055 --> 00:33:47,292
{\an7}OVER NEARBY FEMALES,
\h\h\h\hCALLED COWS.
473
00:33:49,561 --> 00:33:52,597
{\an7}\h\h\hTHE TWO-TON ANIMALS
ARE NAMED FOR THEIR NOSES,
474
00:33:52,631 --> 00:33:54,600
{\an7}NOT THEIR SIZE.
475
00:33:54,633 --> 00:33:57,536
{\an7}[BELLOWING]
476
00:34:02,407 --> 00:34:06,244
{\an7}EACH BULL CLAIMS A TERRITORY
\h\h\hFOR HIS HAREM OF COWS.
477
00:34:06,278 --> 00:34:08,380
{\an7}[BELLOWING]
478
00:34:08,413 --> 00:34:11,449
{\an7}BUT CHALLENGES CAN COME ANYTIME.
479
00:34:13,018 --> 00:34:14,453
{\an7}[BELLOWING]
480
00:34:14,486 --> 00:34:19,958
{\an7}THE STRONGEST BULLS
HAVE UP TO 50 MATES.
481
00:34:19,991 --> 00:34:23,561
{\an7}AFTER BREEDING, THE ANIMALS
\hMIGRATE TO THE ANTARCTIC--
482
00:34:23,595 --> 00:34:26,398
{\an7}TO FEAST ON FISH AND SQUID.
483
00:34:27,532 --> 00:34:32,303
{\an7}♪
484
00:34:32,337 --> 00:34:36,241
{\an7}NEARBY, A DIFFERENT SPECIES--
\h\h\hTHE ANTARCTIC FUR SEAL--
485
00:34:36,274 --> 00:34:38,343
{\an7}SEEMS PEACEFUL.
486
00:34:38,376 --> 00:34:46,017
{\an7}[SEALS GROANING]
487
00:34:48,320 --> 00:34:52,124
{\an7}BUT THEIR BEHAVIOR IS SIMILAR
\hTO THEIR HULKING RELATIVES.
488
00:34:52,157 --> 00:34:58,563
{\an7}[WARBLING]
489
00:34:58,597 --> 00:35:01,166
{\an7}IRONICALLY, THIS FEISTY COLONY
490
00:35:01,199 --> 00:35:05,103
{\an7}INHABITS AN ABANDONED
\h\h\hSEALING STATION.
491
00:35:05,136 --> 00:35:06,704
{\an7}[GRUNTING]
492
00:35:06,738 --> 00:35:10,775
{\an7}SEALERS LIVED ON SOUTH GEORGIA
\h\hTHROUGH THE 18th CENTURY,
493
00:35:10,809 --> 00:35:13,578
{\an7}DECIMATING THE SEAL POPULATION.
494
00:35:13,612 --> 00:35:17,116
{\an7}[WARBLING AND GRUNTING]
495
00:35:17,148 --> 00:35:22,220
{\an7}NOW 95% OF THE WORLD’S
POPULATION LIVES HERE.
496
00:35:28,693 --> 00:35:32,397
{\an7}THE MOST SPECTACULAR THING
ABOUT SOUTH GEORGIA ISLAND
497
00:35:32,430 --> 00:35:35,066
{\an7}MAY BE ITS KING PENGUINS.
498
00:35:35,100 --> 00:35:40,372
{\an7}[CACOPHONY OF HONKING]
499
00:35:40,405 --> 00:35:44,042
{\an7}IT’S HOME TO NEARLY A MILLION
\h\h\h\h\h\hOF THESE BIRDS...
500
00:35:44,075 --> 00:35:47,979
{\an7}[HONKING]
501
00:35:48,013 --> 00:35:52,050
{\an7}\h\hSECOND IN SIZE ONLY
TO THE EMPEROR PENGUIN.
502
00:35:52,083 --> 00:36:04,295
{\an7}[HONKING]
503
00:36:04,329 --> 00:36:11,970
{\an7}♪
504
00:36:12,003 --> 00:36:16,374
{\an7}PARENTS KEEP THEIR NEWBORNS WARM
BY BALANCING THEM ON THEIR FEET.
505
00:36:20,311 --> 00:36:22,246
{\an7}AS AWKWARD ADOLESCENTS,
506
00:36:22,280 --> 00:36:25,183
{\an7}THE YOUNGSTERS GROW A COAT
\h\h\h\hOF DOWNY FEATHERS
507
00:36:25,216 --> 00:36:27,985
{\an7}\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hTO PROTECT THEM
FROM THE FREEZING TEMPERATURES.
508
00:36:28,019 --> 00:36:30,154
{\an7}[HONKING]
509
00:36:30,188 --> 00:36:42,000
{\an7}♪
510
00:36:42,033 --> 00:36:46,404
{\an7}THE PENGUINS ALSO STAY WARM
\hWITH COLLECTIVE BODY HEAT.
511
00:36:49,774 --> 00:36:54,479
{\an7}\hTHE RESULT IS ONE OF THE MOST
STUNNING SIGHTS IN THE ATLANTIC.
512
00:37:02,120 --> 00:37:04,956
{\an7}MOVING EVEN FURTHER SOUTH,
\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hWE ARRIVE
513
00:37:04,989 --> 00:37:08,125
{\an7}AT SOME OF THE MOST FOREBODING
\h\h\h\h\h\hISLANDS ON EARTH--
514
00:37:08,159 --> 00:37:10,695
{\an7}THE SOUTH SHETLANDS.
515
00:37:10,729 --> 00:37:14,399
{\an7}\h\h\h\h\hTHE ARCHIPELAGO SITS
OFF THE COAST OF ANTARCTICA--
516
00:37:14,432 --> 00:37:19,170
{\an7}\h\hTHE ONLY CONTINENT
WITH NO NATIVE PEOPLE.
517
00:37:19,204 --> 00:37:23,375
{\an7}ALL OF THIS LAND IS PROTECTED
\h\h\hBY THE ANTARCTIC TREATY,
518
00:37:23,408 --> 00:37:26,611
{\an7}WHICH SETS IT ASIDE
FOR SCIENTIFIC USE.
519
00:37:30,215 --> 00:37:32,384
{\an7}\hON THE NORTHERN END
OF THE SOUTH SHETLANDS
520
00:37:32,417 --> 00:37:34,185
{\an7}IS ELEPHANT ISLAND,
521
00:37:34,219 --> 00:37:37,589
{\an7}WHERE SUMMER HIGHS REACH
\h\h\hABOUT 34 DEGREES.
522
00:37:41,059 --> 00:37:45,764
{\an7}\h\h\hTHIS DESOLATE LANDSCAPE IS
A HAVEN FOR CHINSTRAP PENGUINS,
523
00:37:45,797 --> 00:37:51,202
{\an7}\h\h\hNAMED FOR THE BLACK BAND
OF FEATHERS UNDER THEIR HEADS.
524
00:37:51,236 --> 00:37:54,539
{\an7}THOUSANDS OF THE BIRDS LIVE HERE
IN RELATIVE PEACE,
525
00:37:54,572 --> 00:37:57,475
{\an7}SINCE THERE ARE FEW
\hNATURAL PREDATORS.
526
00:37:57,509 --> 00:38:02,047
{\an7}[SQUAWKING]
527
00:38:02,080 --> 00:38:03,081
{\an7}[SQUIRT]
528
00:38:04,349 --> 00:38:08,987
{\an7}FOR THEM, PARENTHOOD
\hIS A TEAM EFFORT.
529
00:38:09,020 --> 00:38:12,290
{\an7}MALES HUNT FOR ROCKS
\h\hTO BUILD NESTS.
530
00:38:12,323 --> 00:38:20,665
{\an7}♪
531
00:38:20,698 --> 00:38:24,202
{\an7}\hTHEY CAREFULLY CONSTRUCT
CIRCULAR STONE ENCLOSURES
532
00:38:24,235 --> 00:38:27,138
{\an7}\hTO PROTECT EGGS
FROM THE ELEMENTS.
533
00:38:27,172 --> 00:38:34,446
{\an7}[SQUAWKING]
534
00:38:34,479 --> 00:38:42,387
{\an7}♪
535
00:38:42,420 --> 00:38:44,322
{\an7}WHEN FEMALES ARRIVE,
536
00:38:44,355 --> 00:38:48,292
{\an7}\hTHE PARENTS WILL TAKE TURNS
KEEPING THEIR OFFSPRING WARM.
537
00:38:52,030 --> 00:38:53,465
{\an7}IN THEIR OFF HOURS,
538
00:38:53,498 --> 00:38:56,701
{\an7}\h\hTHESE PENGUINS PLUNGE
INTO THE 30-DEGREE WATERS
539
00:38:56,734 --> 00:38:59,003
{\an7}TO FISH FOR KRILL.
540
00:38:59,037 --> 00:39:03,141
{\an7}[SQUAWKING]
541
00:39:03,174 --> 00:39:07,145
{\an7}♪
542
00:39:07,178 --> 00:39:09,313
{\an7}\h\h\h\h\h\hTHEY WITHSTAND
THE FREEZING TEMPERATURES
543
00:39:09,347 --> 00:39:11,449
{\an7}THANKS TO TIGHTLY PACKED
\h\h\h\h\h\h\hFEATHERS,
544
00:39:11,482 --> 00:39:14,785
{\an7}\h\hWHICH PROVIDE
A WATERPROOF COAT,
545
00:39:14,819 --> 00:39:17,121
{\an7}ALONG WITH PLENTY OF BLUBBER.
546
00:39:17,155 --> 00:39:21,559
{\an7}[SQUAWKING]
547
00:39:21,593 --> 00:39:26,398
{\an7}\h\h\hWHEN BREEDING SEASON ENDS,
THE PAIRS HEAD BACK OUT TO SEA.
548
00:39:32,203 --> 00:39:34,605
{\an7}\hON THE SOUTHERN END
OF THE SOUTH SHETLANDS
549
00:39:34,639 --> 00:39:36,407
{\an7}IS DECEPTION ISLAND,
550
00:39:36,441 --> 00:39:39,778
{\an7}NAMED FOR ITS DECEPTIVE HARBOR.
551
00:39:39,811 --> 00:39:42,681
{\an7}\h\h\h\hTHE HORSESHOE SHAPE
CREATES AN UNEXPECTED HAVEN
552
00:39:42,714 --> 00:39:46,184
{\an7}IN THE HARSH ENVIRONMENT.
553
00:39:46,217 --> 00:39:50,988
{\an7}THE ENTIRE ISLAND IS THE CALDERA
OF AN ACTIVE VOLCANO.
554
00:39:57,161 --> 00:39:59,563
{\an7}AROUND DECEPTION,
COLD AIR COLLIDES
555
00:39:59,597 --> 00:40:02,066
{\an7}WITH THE WARMTH OF THE ISLAND--
556
00:40:02,100 --> 00:40:04,703
{\an7}CREATING A LOW-HANGING MIST.
557
00:40:04,736 --> 00:40:14,179
{\an7}♪
558
00:40:14,212 --> 00:40:18,183
{\an7}THIS IS A PLACE OF CONTRASTS.
559
00:40:18,216 --> 00:40:21,519
{\an7}SNOW DOTS RED VOLCANIC ASH
560
00:40:21,552 --> 00:40:25,456
{\an7}FROM A MASSIVE ERUPTION
AROUND 10,000 YEARS AGO.
561
00:40:28,092 --> 00:40:31,562
{\an7}\hFREEZING WATER LAPS
ON BLACK LAVA BEACHES,
562
00:40:31,596 --> 00:40:34,732
{\an7}\h\h\hWHERE WILDLIFE
WAS ONCE WIPED OUT.
563
00:40:42,573 --> 00:40:45,076
{\an7}AND AMID THE SNOW AND ICE,
564
00:40:45,109 --> 00:40:49,547
{\an7}THE EARTH BELOW IS SO HOT,
\h\h\h\h\hIT BOILS WATER.
565
00:40:57,355 --> 00:41:02,760
{\an7}\hIN 1906, WHALERS ESTABLISHED
A BLEAK OUTPOST ON DECEPTION.
566
00:41:06,230 --> 00:41:10,267
{\an7}WHALING WAS A WORLDWIDE INDUSTRY
THROUGH THE 19th CENTURY.
567
00:41:14,205 --> 00:41:18,242
{\an7}HERE, WHALERS BUILT
MASSIVE IRON BOILERS
568
00:41:18,276 --> 00:41:21,212
{\an7}TO EXTRACT OIL FROM THE ANIMALS.
569
00:41:21,245 --> 00:41:26,650
{\an7}♪
570
00:41:26,684 --> 00:41:29,520
{\an7}\h\h\h\hTHE BLEACHED BONES
OF THE WHALES THEY HUNTED
571
00:41:29,554 --> 00:41:32,690
{\an7}STILL LITTER THE GROUND.
572
00:41:32,724 --> 00:41:36,194
{\an7}[WARBLING]
573
00:41:45,603 --> 00:41:49,674
{\an7}♪
574
00:41:49,707 --> 00:41:54,345
{\an7}TODAY, ALL OF ANTARCTICA
IS A WHALE SANCTUARY...
575
00:41:54,379 --> 00:41:55,614
{\an7}[WHOOSH]
576
00:41:55,646 --> 00:41:58,682
{\an7}AND A FEEDING GROUND
FOR HUMPBACK WHALES.
577
00:41:58,716 --> 00:42:05,656
{\an7}[WHALES MOANING]
578
00:42:08,159 --> 00:42:11,295
{\an7}\h\h\h\h\h\hEVERY YEAR,
THEY TRAVEL 3,000 MILES
579
00:42:11,329 --> 00:42:15,500
{\an7}FROM THEIR CALVING GROUNDS
580
00:42:15,533 --> 00:42:18,403
{\an7}TO FEAST IN THESE RICH WATERS.
581
00:42:20,405 --> 00:42:23,408
{\an7}[SQUEALING]
582
00:42:27,078 --> 00:42:29,013
{\an7}[MOANING]
583
00:42:29,814 --> 00:42:31,983
{\an7}[SQUEAKING]
584
00:42:32,016 --> 00:42:35,386
{\an7}IT’S ONE OF THE LONGEST JOURNEYS
ON EARTH
585
00:42:35,420 --> 00:42:38,290
{\an7}FOR ONE OF EARTH’S
\hLARGEST MAMMALS.
586
00:42:38,322 --> 00:42:41,559
{\an7}♪
587
00:42:41,592 --> 00:42:43,594
{\an7}[SQUEALING]
588
00:42:43,628 --> 00:42:57,175
{\an7}♪
589
00:42:57,208 --> 00:43:01,479
{\an7}FROM NORTH TO SOUTH, THE ISLANDS
SCATTERED DOWN THE ATLANTIC
590
00:43:01,512 --> 00:43:06,283
{\an7}\hGIVE US A GLIMPSE
OF EARTH UNPLUGGED.
591
00:43:06,317 --> 00:43:10,321
{\an7}[SQUAWKING]
592
00:43:10,354 --> 00:43:14,358
{\an7}\h\h\h\h\hTHESE REMOTE SPOTS ARE
SAFE HAVENS FOR SOME SPECIES...
593
00:43:17,428 --> 00:43:21,399
{\an7}AND TESTING GROUNDS FOR OTHERS.
594
00:43:21,432 --> 00:43:25,369
{\an7}THEY OFFER WINDOWS
INTO EVOLUTION...
595
00:43:25,403 --> 00:43:28,406
{\an7}AND SPACES FOR SCIENTIFIC STUDY.
596
00:43:30,007 --> 00:43:33,644
{\an7}\h\h\h\h\h\hTHE FORCES OF NATURE
WILL CONTINUE TO PUSH AND PULL.
597
00:43:33,678 --> 00:43:38,416
{\an7}[RUMBLING]
598
00:43:38,449 --> 00:43:40,418
{\an7}[SQUAWKING]
599
00:43:40,451 --> 00:43:44,355
{\an7}AND THESE EIGHT ISLANDS
\hWILL REMAIN ELUSIVE...
600
00:43:44,388 --> 00:43:48,225
{\an7}SPECKS OF LAND...
601
00:43:48,259 --> 00:43:51,195
{\an7}IN THE WILD ATLANTIC OCEAN.
602
00:43:51,229 --> 00:43:59,137
{\an7}♪
66925
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