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We're really lucky
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00:00:04,982 --> 00:00:08,877
to have so many great European
cities right on our doorstep,
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00:00:08,902 --> 00:00:11,127
just waiting to be rediscovered.
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I don't know anywhere else you can
get this many different sounds,
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colours and, of course, smells.
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Look at that.
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And a weekend escape...
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Hey!
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...is a brilliant and easy way
to explore them.
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I am loving this.
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Feast your eyes on Venice.
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So, I'm going to have
loads of amazing food...
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00:00:38,929 --> 00:00:42,134
Go on, baby, sizzle, sizzle!
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I may have found the best food
in Amsterdam.
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...see some amazing sights...
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Colosseum!
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This is the famous
Checkpoint Charlie.
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Wow. This is stunning.
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00:00:53,878 --> 00:00:56,774
...and check out the culture
of each city.
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You are the bravest people
in Europe
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00:00:58,958 --> 00:01:00,704
and maybe the craziest.
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Guys, I'm inside the fountain.
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I'm part of the Trevi Fountain!
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So, I'll be packing lots...
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Ooh.
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Come and have a look at this.
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00:01:11,128 --> 00:01:12,824
...into my three-day trips...
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Oh, wow. We're up on the roof.
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There is beer, there is wine,
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there is sunshine, music and there
are lots and lots of smiles.
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...showing you how to get the most
out of a weekend getaway.
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I feel like Audrey Hepburn.
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Just a two-hour flight from the UK
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is probably the most opulent city
in Europe.
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Venice's iconic canals,
world famous sights
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and, of course,
fantastic Italian food
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make this a mecca
for weekend breaks.
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A short train ride from the airport
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and I'm straight into
the heart of the city,
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early on my first day.
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00:02:01,078 --> 00:02:02,303
That's it, I'm here.
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This is Venice,
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without doubt one of the most
spectacular cities in the world.
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You've got the Piazza San Marco,
the Rialto Bridge, the Grand Canal.
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I mean, breathtaking sights
everywhere.
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However, Venice
also has a reputation
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for being eye-wateringly expensive
and I know this to be true myself,
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but only if you eat and drink
in the tourist hot spots.
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This weekend, I'm gonna attempt
to do Venice in an affordable way.
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I also want to get behind
the ornate facades.
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I'm hoping to see the Venice
of the Venetians.
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You can break the bank here
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as Venice has some of the most
luxurious hotels on the planet
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and you pay extra for a canal view.
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But there are some ways
of bringing the bill down,
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whilst still getting
a slice of la dolce vita.
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00:03:00,569 --> 00:03:03,944
Nice. Very nice.
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00:03:03,969 --> 00:03:07,223
However, there is no reason
to spend a lot of money
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00:03:07,248 --> 00:03:08,494
on a room with a view.
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00:03:08,519 --> 00:03:11,414
What you need to do
is dump your bag
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00:03:11,439 --> 00:03:12,904
and head for the roof.
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00:03:15,128 --> 00:03:18,303
So, this is why I didn't bother
getting a room with a view.
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00:03:18,328 --> 00:03:20,744
I mean, who needs
to spend a lot of money on a room
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00:03:20,769 --> 00:03:24,384
when the hotel
has got a terrace like this?
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There you go.
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00:03:25,849 --> 00:03:28,624
Feast your eyes on Venice.
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00:03:35,998 --> 00:03:37,384
You see that over there?
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00:03:37,409 --> 00:03:40,264
That is the entrance
to the famous Grand Canal
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that flows through the middle
of this island city.
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It's there that all
the grand palaces were built
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between the 13th
and the 18th century.
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You had to be seriously rich
to live here.
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There are another 150 canals
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which break this city down
into even smaller islands
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00:03:57,049 --> 00:03:59,944
and they're connected
by 400 bridges.
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Well, there is no way,
in a three-day trip,
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that I'm gonna see all of them, but
I am gonna give it a really good go.
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00:04:06,049 --> 00:04:07,544
But the first thing I've got to do -
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00:04:07,569 --> 00:04:09,183
and I'm gonna have to work hard
on this -
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00:04:09,208 --> 00:04:11,384
is actually tearing myself away
from here,
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00:04:11,409 --> 00:04:13,694
cos I could actually spend
the whole weekend here,
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00:04:13,719 --> 00:04:15,464
just watching Venice go by.
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00:04:22,719 --> 00:04:23,744
Mwah!
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00:04:24,889 --> 00:04:27,944
Now, as you might know,
I love something sweet,
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so it only seems fair to start
my holiday the right way.
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Grazie.
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00:04:36,208 --> 00:04:38,864
I mean, Venice is beautiful,
but, wherever you are in Italy,
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00:04:38,889 --> 00:04:40,614
you've got to start
with a gelato, right?
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00:04:41,739 --> 00:04:44,524
Oh, get in, that is lovely.
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00:04:46,208 --> 00:04:48,694
And it gives me
the perfect opportunity
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00:04:48,719 --> 00:04:52,384
to indulge in something
you can definitely get for nothing.
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00:04:52,409 --> 00:04:55,664
I think the best thing about Venice
are the views.
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It's beautiful everywhere you turn
and, of course, they're free.
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It doesn't cost anything
to look at the views.
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00:05:00,719 --> 00:05:04,053
But, have you ever wondered
why there's a city here,
96
00:05:04,078 --> 00:05:06,414
on these islands
in the middle of the Adriatic?
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00:05:06,439 --> 00:05:08,223
Well, it's the end
of the Roman Empire.
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00:05:08,248 --> 00:05:10,123
When you've got Germanic tribes
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00:05:10,148 --> 00:05:12,404
running all over
the Italian peninsula,
100
00:05:12,429 --> 00:05:14,053
the people from the north of Italy,
101
00:05:14,078 --> 00:05:16,334
they came here to these islands
for protection.
102
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Then, they decided
they wanted to stay here
103
00:05:18,639 --> 00:05:20,824
and they had to make it
more habitable,
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so they got tree trunks and they
piled those into the muddy ground,
105
00:05:24,049 --> 00:05:26,334
then they built platforms
across them,
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00:05:26,359 --> 00:05:28,254
and then their buildings
on top of that.
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Then, so they could move around
easily, they dug canals.
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Well, the canals are still here,
there's still people here.
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There's not barbaric hordes
any more -
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well, unless you count us,
the tourists.
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00:05:44,099 --> 00:05:46,824
There are 26 miles of waterway
in Venice,
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all in a city less than a third
the size of London.
113
00:05:50,049 --> 00:05:52,784
And, of course,
there are the famous gondolas.
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00:05:52,809 --> 00:05:57,664
However, at 80 euros for 30 minutes,
gondolas are pricey,
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00:05:57,689 --> 00:06:00,864
so I've come to the quiet
Cannaregio neighbourhood
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to get a different look at the
canals for less than half the price.
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Mattia? Hi, hi, Gregg. Yes.
Good to meet you. Nice to meet you.
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So, we are gonna do a kayak tour
of the backstreet canals.
119
00:06:12,049 --> 00:06:14,173
Yes, of course. Tell me what to do.
120
00:06:14,198 --> 00:06:17,944
OK, so, life jacket. That's for you.
121
00:06:19,049 --> 00:06:20,024
OK.
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Fits you perfect.
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00:06:23,969 --> 00:06:26,103
OK. Yes!
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Come on. Kayak king. Let's go.
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Once Mattia has joined me, we're
ready to go water-level sightseeing.
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OK. Let's go in this way.
127
00:06:45,919 --> 00:06:50,303
So, what's it like,
constantly living on the water
128
00:06:50,328 --> 00:06:51,864
or next to the water?
129
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Oh, it's really nice.
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00:06:53,279 --> 00:06:57,784
We feel very lucky, because we have
the water every time close by us.
131
00:06:57,809 --> 00:07:02,044
You know, here in Venice,
we do not have a traffic light,
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00:07:02,069 --> 00:07:07,744
So, in order to know
if the street is free or not,
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00:07:07,769 --> 00:07:11,664
before turning the corner,
we say, "Oi-oi!"
134
00:07:11,689 --> 00:07:13,584
Oi-oi? Exactly.
135
00:07:13,609 --> 00:07:16,454
And, if nobody answer,
it means that it is free
136
00:07:16,479 --> 00:07:18,024
and so we can go.
137
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Oi-oi!
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00:07:19,969 --> 00:07:21,664
HE CHUCKLES
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00:07:21,689 --> 00:07:24,093
Does everybody have a boat?
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Almost everybody.
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00:07:26,198 --> 00:07:30,054
That one is what they call
the teenager boat.
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00:07:30,079 --> 00:07:33,394
It's the boat that your parents give
you, usually when you turn 18.
143
00:07:33,419 --> 00:07:35,353
Does everything here come by boat?
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00:07:35,378 --> 00:07:37,514
Let's say you buy
a new refrigerator.
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Does it come by boat?
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Yeah, you needed to call a boat
like that one
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that bring you the stuff
in front of your house.
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00:07:45,458 --> 00:07:47,634
The police are in boats?
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00:07:47,659 --> 00:07:50,824
If you want to go to hospital,
the ambulance is a boat?
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00:07:50,849 --> 00:07:52,594
We have everything by boat,
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00:07:52,619 --> 00:07:56,154
even the trash collector
are by boat.
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Yeah, we have everything
completely different.
153
00:08:00,199 --> 00:08:04,353
Venice is population has changed
dramatically in the last century
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00:08:04,378 --> 00:08:05,714
as tourism has grown.
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During the 19505,
it peaked at 175,000,
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but, nowadays,
there's less than one third of that
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and this is the perfect way
to see how the locals live.
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What is that?
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00:08:17,899 --> 00:08:19,264
Ah, that?
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00:08:19,289 --> 00:08:22,183
It's probably clothes,
because, you see, in Venice,
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we used to dry the clothes
outside the window.
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Someone's dropped their laundry
in the... Hey!
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GREGG LAUGHS
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MATTIA SPEAKS ITALIAN
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So, what do you do? You pick it up
and she has to come and get it?
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Yeah, sure.
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00:08:36,409 --> 00:08:37,744
HE LAUGHS
168
00:08:37,769 --> 00:08:39,433
We've got your jumper!
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This a thing that happens.
Yeah, but hang on a minute,
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she might drop a nice jacket.
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Yeah. This was nice.
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Is that a regular thing?
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00:08:46,929 --> 00:08:49,824
This happens when you
dry the stuff outside,
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it happens sometimes. Luckily, this
time, there was us to pick that up.
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Anyway, you have to wait
for other boat to pick that up
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or you just leave it there
to the fishes.
177
00:09:01,358 --> 00:09:03,654
I'm getting a bit hungry.
178
00:09:03,679 --> 00:09:05,814
You wouldn't mind to take
something to eat here?
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I would love something to eat.
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00:09:07,278 --> 00:09:08,814
OK, let's do.
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00:09:09,919 --> 00:09:11,574
Oi-oi!
182
00:09:11,599 --> 00:09:12,734
Oi-oi!
183
00:09:12,759 --> 00:09:14,044
Hoy!
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00:09:14,069 --> 00:09:16,094
We're going there? Yes, definitely.
185
00:09:16,119 --> 00:09:17,894
How do I get out of the boat?
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00:09:17,919 --> 00:09:22,123
We're Venetian now, so we can eat
directly from the boat.
187
00:09:22,148 --> 00:09:25,044
Really super in Venice,
we do this all the time.
188
00:09:25,069 --> 00:09:27,934
OK. We go to a bar, we take
something to eat, we stay there.
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00:09:27,959 --> 00:09:29,174
Thank you so much.
190
00:09:29,199 --> 00:09:30,534
Gregg? Hey.
191
00:09:30,559 --> 00:09:32,404
Little snack. What is this?
192
00:09:32,429 --> 00:09:34,894
This is baccala mantecato.
193
00:09:34,919 --> 00:09:38,484
Salt cod. This is made
the Venetian way. Mmm.
194
00:09:38,509 --> 00:09:41,764
It's not fishy
and it's quite creamy.
195
00:09:42,869 --> 00:09:45,253
It's lovely. Thanks.
196
00:09:45,278 --> 00:09:48,044
That's what you need
after a tough day on the canals...
197
00:09:48,069 --> 00:09:49,894
Mm, exactly. ..kayaking.
198
00:09:49,919 --> 00:09:52,214
It was great, this,
thank you very much,
199
00:09:52,239 --> 00:09:55,253
It's really lovely to see the city
like a Venetian.
200
00:09:55,278 --> 00:09:57,764
You're welcome, Gregg. It's been
a pleasure to have you here.
201
00:09:57,789 --> 00:09:59,123
Shall we get another one?
202
00:10:00,278 --> 00:10:04,534
Coming up, I enjoy a night out
clone the Venetian way...
203
00:10:04,559 --> 00:10:05,573
I am loving this.
204
00:10:05,598 --> 00:10:07,964
ALL CHEERING
205
00:10:07,989 --> 00:10:11,044
...and get stuck in
to an iconic dish.
206
00:10:11,069 --> 00:10:15,894
Oh, my word, it's absolutely,
as they say, melting in the mouth.
207
00:10:30,250 --> 00:10:34,504
I am on a long weekend in one of the
world's top tourist destinations -
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00:10:34,529 --> 00:10:36,475
Venice.
209
00:10:36,500 --> 00:10:39,025
While this place sees up to
30 million visitors a year,
210
00:10:39,050 --> 00:10:41,554
at night, many of them
head for cruise ships
211
00:10:41,579 --> 00:10:43,225
or hotels on the mainland,
212
00:10:43,250 --> 00:10:46,195
making it the perfect time
for a wander.
213
00:10:46,220 --> 00:10:49,355
Obviously Venice is famous
for its canals,
214
00:10:49,380 --> 00:10:52,634
but it's also got
lots of little, windy streets.
215
00:10:52,659 --> 00:10:54,995
In fact, it's quite easy
to get lost.
216
00:10:55,020 --> 00:10:56,754
But it doesn't matter,
I don't think,
217
00:10:56,779 --> 00:10:59,424
because you're never that
far away from another bridge
218
00:10:59,449 --> 00:11:03,945
or another square
or a bar or a cafe.
219
00:11:03,970 --> 00:11:08,145
Oh! Er, yeah. Dead end.
220
00:11:08,170 --> 00:11:10,304
Come on. It's a canal!
221
00:11:13,500 --> 00:11:16,674
At dinnertime, it's easy to get
lured in by the bright lights
222
00:11:16,699 --> 00:11:19,585
of restaurants
on the main thoroughfares,
223
00:11:19,610 --> 00:11:22,195
but I want to try something
more authentic,
224
00:11:22,220 --> 00:11:24,195
so I'm meeting up with some locals
225
00:11:24,220 --> 00:11:26,634
who do foodie tours
right across the city.
226
00:11:28,610 --> 00:11:30,395
Hey, buonasera, good evening.
227
00:11:30,420 --> 00:11:33,355
Good evening. Buonasera.
I'm Gregg.
228
00:11:33,380 --> 00:11:35,395
I'm Loris. I'm Giada. Loris...
229
00:11:35,420 --> 00:11:39,475
Giada ancl Loris. And you're gonna
teach me how to eat like a Venetian?
230
00:11:39,500 --> 00:11:42,115
The Venetian lifestyle.
The Venetian way. Perfect, perfect.
231
00:11:42,140 --> 00:11:45,395
There are many, many, many
restaurants in Venice,
232
00:11:45,420 --> 00:11:47,634
but I don't imagine
the Venetian people
233
00:11:47,659 --> 00:11:49,955
eat in the restaurants
every day, right?
234
00:11:49,980 --> 00:11:53,195
Well, not every day,
but we do a lot of this, actually.
235
00:11:53,220 --> 00:11:56,554
Bacaro tour, we call it. It's
basically the Venetian pub crawl.
236
00:11:56,579 --> 00:12:00,275
What we do is we grab a little glass
of wine, called ombra,
237
00:12:00,300 --> 00:12:01,915
and we get a cicchetto.
238
00:12:01,940 --> 00:12:04,785
Cicchetto is typical Venetian
finger food.
239
00:12:04,810 --> 00:12:07,585
It can be a meatball, like the one
you're going to try. What is it?
240
00:12:07,610 --> 00:12:09,225
Is it like tapas?
241
00:12:09,250 --> 00:12:10,705
Don't call them tapas!
242
00:12:10,730 --> 00:12:12,225
THEY LAUGH
243
00:12:12,250 --> 00:12:14,705
Or we call the food police.
Be careful.
244
00:12:14,730 --> 00:12:16,995
But is it like tapas?
245
00:12:17,020 --> 00:12:18,955
Similar concept.
Is a similar concept. Right.
246
00:12:18,980 --> 00:12:21,705
I understand the concept
of little food. Yes.
247
00:12:21,730 --> 00:12:23,315
Little bites. Good idea.
248
00:12:23,340 --> 00:12:25,475
Why are we having a little glass?
249
00:12:25,500 --> 00:12:26,915
Extremely typical.
250
00:12:26,940 --> 00:12:30,915
This is called ombra, which
is shadow, shade in Italian.
251
00:12:30,940 --> 00:12:33,705
So, this was sold in
St Mark's Square, actually,
252
00:12:33,730 --> 00:12:35,554
around the bell tower of St Mark
in the past,
253
00:12:35,579 --> 00:12:37,985
during the Venetian Republic,
there were wine shops
254
00:12:38,010 --> 00:12:39,065
and the wine shops,
255
00:12:39,090 --> 00:12:41,674
they followed the shade of the
bell tower, to keep the wine cool.
256
00:12:41,699 --> 00:12:44,115
So, the Venetians created
an expression, let's take a shade.
257
00:12:44,140 --> 00:12:45,754
That's a very nice idea.
258
00:12:45,779 --> 00:12:47,915
Cheers. Cin-cin. Cin-cin.
259
00:12:47,940 --> 00:12:48,915
Salute.
260
00:12:48,940 --> 00:12:50,754
Cin-cin and salute and cheers.
261
00:12:50,779 --> 00:12:52,275
Cheers. Cheers.
262
00:12:55,090 --> 00:12:56,785
That's nice. That's almost sweet.
263
00:12:56,810 --> 00:12:58,395
And now you have to try the food.
264
00:12:58,420 --> 00:13:00,065
And this is a famous meatball?
Yes. Yes.
265
00:13:01,649 --> 00:13:04,424
Beef and potatoes,
but the recipe is a secret,
266
00:13:04,449 --> 00:13:07,504
so they won't tell you.
And mortadella. A bit of mortadella.
267
00:13:09,449 --> 00:13:12,785
Crunchy on the outside,
really soft in the middle. Mm-hm.
268
00:13:12,810 --> 00:13:16,785
It looks like it might be mincemeat,
but it's not, it's softer than that.
269
00:13:16,810 --> 00:13:17,955
Bit of garlic.
270
00:13:17,980 --> 00:13:19,674
A lot of garlic. Mm-hm.
271
00:13:19,699 --> 00:13:21,624
More than a shade of garlic.
272
00:13:22,779 --> 00:13:25,754
Traditionally, cicchetti is eaten
standing up,
273
00:13:25,779 --> 00:13:29,624
as you eat and move on, and
that's exactly how tonight is going
274
00:13:29,649 --> 00:13:32,835
as we're already on our way
to the second bar of the evening,
275
00:13:32,860 --> 00:13:34,835
near the Rialto Bridge.
276
00:13:34,860 --> 00:13:35,985
So, this is great.
277
00:13:36,010 --> 00:13:38,395
We're not only having little glasses
278
00:13:38,420 --> 00:13:40,554
and things to eat
in different places,
279
00:13:40,579 --> 00:13:41,865
we're walking around the city.
280
00:13:41,890 --> 00:13:44,595
Cos if we were having dinner in
a restaurant, we'd be in one place.
281
00:13:44,620 --> 00:13:48,504
Exactly. It's a great way to explore
all the districts of Venice.
282
00:13:48,529 --> 00:13:51,595
This bar is known
for putting a modern twist
283
00:13:51,620 --> 00:13:54,624
on traditional cicchetti favourites.
284
00:13:54,649 --> 00:13:56,345
Giada!
285
00:13:56,370 --> 00:13:58,065
Wow.
286
00:13:58,090 --> 00:14:00,674
Giada, my new best foodie friend.
287
00:14:00,699 --> 00:14:03,235
What is that?
That is bottom of artichoke,
288
00:14:03,260 --> 00:14:04,754
also typical food of Venice.
289
00:14:04,779 --> 00:14:06,955
Inside, it is amatriciana shrimps.
290
00:14:06,980 --> 00:14:09,835
You have a spicy sauce inside
of tomato
291
00:14:09,860 --> 00:14:11,265
and cheese with the shrimps.
292
00:14:11,290 --> 00:14:13,985
I thought that was
some sort of unusual pastry,
293
00:14:14,010 --> 00:14:16,424
but that's an artichoke
and I love artichokes, so let's...
294
00:14:18,620 --> 00:14:20,754
Mmm.
295
00:14:20,779 --> 00:14:22,595
Oh, that's good.
296
00:14:22,620 --> 00:14:25,674
That is rich with tomato, you're
getting the chew of some seafood
297
00:14:25,699 --> 00:14:28,905
and it's held in an artichoke heart,
which is absolutely lovely.
298
00:14:28,930 --> 00:14:31,315
It's probably one of the meatiest
vegetables you can get.
299
00:14:31,340 --> 00:14:34,115
Now, that one, I love.
This is a great way to see the city.
300
00:14:34,140 --> 00:14:36,115
I am loving this. Yay!
301
00:14:36,140 --> 00:14:37,544
THEY CHEER
302
00:14:37,569 --> 00:14:39,195
HE LAUGHS
303
00:14:39,220 --> 00:14:41,905
I want to eat some more,
I fancy another drink,
304
00:14:41,930 --> 00:14:43,424
but we're not gonna do it here,
right?
305
00:14:43,449 --> 00:14:45,035
No. I'm learning. You're learning.
306
00:14:45,060 --> 00:14:47,235
Take me to the next one.
Let's go, let's go.
307
00:14:47,260 --> 00:14:51,674
Straight ahead. Good man.
I'm loving this. Loving this!
308
00:14:51,699 --> 00:14:54,115
These bars, or bacari,
309
00:14:54,140 --> 00:14:56,674
were originally created
for locals to stop by
310
00:14:56,699 --> 00:14:59,754
on their way home from work
for a bite to eat and a drink
311
00:14:59,779 --> 00:15:02,705
and were found
on almost every back street.
312
00:15:02,730 --> 00:15:05,705
Just round the corner
is our final stop.
313
00:15:06,860 --> 00:15:09,035
This is another one, right?
This is the place.
314
00:15:09,060 --> 00:15:11,235
Listen, listen,
you go and get some drinks,
315
00:15:11,260 --> 00:15:13,595
I'll find a place for us to stand.
OK? Perfect.
316
00:15:13,620 --> 00:15:15,544
Yes, yes, let's do it. OK.
317
00:15:18,540 --> 00:15:20,754
Hey, ooh.
318
00:15:20,779 --> 00:15:23,345
And, here we are,
with more cicchetti.
319
00:15:23,370 --> 00:15:26,185
Wow, they look... Hang on a minute.
320
00:15:26,210 --> 00:15:29,065
They're not small drinks.
That's not a shade.
321
00:15:29,090 --> 00:15:31,115
That's a total eclipse.
322
00:15:31,140 --> 00:15:32,445
THEY LAUGH
323
00:15:32,470 --> 00:15:33,624
Right, what is that?
324
00:15:33,649 --> 00:15:36,185
That is the most famous Venetian
cocktail, that's the spritz.
325
00:15:36,210 --> 00:15:37,265
Three different ones.
326
00:15:37,290 --> 00:15:39,624
You said you like artichokes -
this is an artichoke spritz.
327
00:15:39,649 --> 00:15:42,465
All right, I'll have the artichoke.
You go with that one. We knew that.
328
00:15:42,490 --> 00:15:44,985
Listen, a lot of people where I live
don't even eat artichokes,
329
00:15:45,010 --> 00:15:46,595
let alone drink them.
330
00:15:46,620 --> 00:15:49,905
They use the leaves in alcohol
infusion with other herbs
331
00:15:49,930 --> 00:15:51,315
to create this liquor.
332
00:15:51,340 --> 00:15:54,155
It's got a feel like liquorice.
333
00:15:54,180 --> 00:15:56,465
What is this one?
This is cheese and walnuts.
334
00:15:56,490 --> 00:16:00,465
Gorgonzola with mascarpone cheese,
walnut, a bit of jam
335
00:16:00,490 --> 00:16:02,985
and an almond. Now you're talking.
336
00:16:03,010 --> 00:16:04,754
Now you're talking.
337
00:16:06,850 --> 00:16:07,985
Mmm.
338
00:16:09,100 --> 00:16:10,065
Mmm.
339
00:16:11,460 --> 00:16:15,825
Creamy mascarpone and the sweetness
of a little bit of jam.
340
00:16:15,850 --> 00:16:17,905
That works. Mm-hm. That works.
341
00:16:17,930 --> 00:16:20,715
This is a great way
of seeing the city
342
00:16:20,740 --> 00:16:22,615
and eating and drinking
proper Venetian food
343
00:16:22,640 --> 00:16:24,095
without spending lots of money.
344
00:16:24,120 --> 00:16:26,285
It is.
But, if I hadn't have met you,
345
00:16:26,310 --> 00:16:28,814
how would I know
where to look for these?
346
00:16:28,839 --> 00:16:32,055
First of all,
avoid the main streets, of course.
347
00:16:32,080 --> 00:16:36,125
Yeah. Start going to the streets
where nobody goes and you'll end up
348
00:16:36,150 --> 00:16:38,764
in a place like this. Usually,
you see a lot of Venetians outside.
349
00:16:38,789 --> 00:16:40,615
So, if you see all Venetians
in line,
350
00:16:40,640 --> 00:16:43,764
waiting for drinks and cicchetti,
you know it's a good place.
351
00:16:43,789 --> 00:16:45,365
Do you know what,
352
00:16:45,390 --> 00:16:48,055
you've introduced a whole new world
of food and drink to me.
353
00:16:48,080 --> 00:16:49,694
Of course. And it's fantastic.
354
00:16:50,950 --> 00:16:53,975
Cheers. Cin-cin. Salute.
Cheers. Salute.
355
00:17:04,719 --> 00:17:06,925
Packing as much as possible
into a weekend
356
00:17:06,950 --> 00:17:09,644
means that Saturday
calls for an early alarm.
357
00:17:09,669 --> 00:17:11,694
And, to start the day
the proper way,
358
00:17:11,719 --> 00:17:15,175
I've headed round the corner
to an affordable pasticceria,
359
00:17:15,200 --> 00:17:16,615
to join the locals.
360
00:17:16,640 --> 00:17:19,125
Can I have some bigne...
361
00:17:19,150 --> 00:17:21,014
...and zaletti.
362
00:17:21,039 --> 00:17:23,764
Ancl una tazza caffe americano,
per favore.
363
00:17:23,789 --> 00:17:28,074
In Italy, breakfast is
a cup of coffee and something sweet,
364
00:17:28,099 --> 00:17:32,314
but every single city or region
in Italy has its own sweet things.
365
00:17:32,339 --> 00:17:33,993
Its own sweet specialities.
366
00:17:34,018 --> 00:17:35,434
Whoa!
367
00:17:35,459 --> 00:17:36,673
Whoa!
368
00:17:39,049 --> 00:17:40,904
Now, that's breakfast, right, look.
369
00:17:40,929 --> 00:17:43,824
Actually, these bignes,
they are not Italian at all.
370
00:17:43,849 --> 00:17:47,104
They are Austrian, because
the Austrians occupied Venice
371
00:17:47,129 --> 00:17:50,024
at the end of the Napoleonic Wars.
I mean, the Austrians are now gone,
372
00:17:50,049 --> 00:17:53,154
but they left their cakes behind,
which I think is very civil of them.
373
00:17:56,898 --> 00:17:59,714
Now, if you like chocolate
like I do, that is divine.
374
00:17:59,739 --> 00:18:04,274
It's not too sweet. That choux
pastry is so light it just dissolves
375
00:18:04,299 --> 00:18:06,714
and you've got crispy chocolate
on the top
376
00:18:06,739 --> 00:18:08,464
and soft chocolate in the middle.
377
00:18:08,489 --> 00:18:11,594
OK, it is a very sweet
and very indulgent breakfast,
378
00:18:11,619 --> 00:18:13,514
but I'm on holiday.
379
00:18:19,099 --> 00:18:22,993
With no roads, you have to be
up for walking in Venice.
380
00:18:23,018 --> 00:18:26,514
But, fortunately,
there's a view around every corner.
381
00:18:26,539 --> 00:18:31,024
My first stop is a 15-minute wander
across to Rialto Market.
382
00:18:31,049 --> 00:18:33,824
Famed for its fresh produce,
it can be busy in the mornings,
383
00:18:33,849 --> 00:18:36,304
so I'm donning my visor.
384
00:18:36,329 --> 00:18:39,234
This market has been here
since the 11th century.
385
00:18:39,259 --> 00:18:43,634
This makes it a thousand-year-old
fresh food market.
386
00:18:43,659 --> 00:18:46,234
Tourists take pictures here -
I mean, it's beautiful colours -
387
00:18:46,259 --> 00:18:48,554
but this is actually
a fresh produce market
388
00:18:48,579 --> 00:18:50,743
where the Venetians
do their shopping.
389
00:18:50,768 --> 00:18:54,354
It smells great, it looks great.
We all want to learn about the food,
390
00:18:54,379 --> 00:18:56,714
traditional food
when we're in places.
391
00:18:56,739 --> 00:18:59,913
I'm gonna meet up with a local chef
called Michele.
392
00:18:59,938 --> 00:19:02,824
I want to learn some more. Chef!
393
00:19:02,849 --> 00:19:06,824
Michele offers visitors the chance
to shop and cook like a local.
394
00:19:06,849 --> 00:19:08,304
What a beautiful market.
395
00:19:08,329 --> 00:19:11,184
Ah, you see. Beautiful.
Absolutely stunning.
396
00:19:11,209 --> 00:19:13,464
In Venice, you have fantastic fish.
397
00:19:13,489 --> 00:19:15,104
Look, what a variety.
398
00:19:15,129 --> 00:19:17,104
Do you think the people of Venice
399
00:19:17,129 --> 00:19:19,274
eat more fish
than the rest of Italy?
400
00:19:19,299 --> 00:19:21,304
Absolutely, yes.
401
00:19:21,329 --> 00:19:25,184
We eat fish four, five times
per week.
402
00:19:25,209 --> 00:19:28,714
We're buying wild sea bass
for an iconic Venetian dish.
403
00:19:28,739 --> 00:19:31,663
Grazie. Hey. Perfect.
404
00:19:31,688 --> 00:19:35,434
Michele has offered to show me
how to cook it back at his home.
405
00:19:35,459 --> 00:19:38,074
Where do you live?
Over there, the Grand Canal.
406
00:19:38,099 --> 00:19:40,304
The other side? Yes, of course.
407
00:19:40,329 --> 00:19:42,873
The other side.
We must take the gondola.
408
00:19:42,898 --> 00:19:45,663
Hang on, hang on,
isn't it really, really expensive?
409
00:19:45,688 --> 00:19:49,663
No, no, two euro for tourists
and 70 cents for Venetians.
410
00:19:49,688 --> 00:19:52,354
So, for two euro,
I can do a gondola ride?
411
00:19:52,379 --> 00:19:55,224
Only for two minutes.
Yeah, but it's still a gondola ride.
412
00:19:55,249 --> 00:19:57,074
Yes, it's still a gondola.
413
00:20:00,129 --> 00:20:03,304
This is just a bus service. Yes.
414
00:20:03,329 --> 00:20:04,913
Gondoliers give a day a week
415
00:20:04,938 --> 00:20:06,824
to this public service
dotted around the city
416
00:20:06,849 --> 00:20:08,993
called the traghetto.
417
00:20:09,018 --> 00:20:11,074
Grazie mille.
418
00:20:11,099 --> 00:20:14,993
After hopping off, it's a short walk
to Michele's spot in Castello,
419
00:20:15,018 --> 00:20:17,224
a real locals neighbourhood.
420
00:20:17,249 --> 00:20:19,274
What an amazing place to live!
421
00:20:19,299 --> 00:20:23,074
Yes, it's so quiet here.
It's a great part of Venice.
422
00:20:23,099 --> 00:20:26,074
So, Gregg, welcome in my home.
423
00:20:26,099 --> 00:20:28,304
Wow.
424
00:20:28,329 --> 00:20:30,194
The ceilings are so high.
425
00:20:30,219 --> 00:20:35,174
This is the kitchen. Very nice.
This is the kitchen of a chef.
426
00:20:35,199 --> 00:20:38,663
So, what are you going to do
with that beautiful fish?
427
00:20:38,688 --> 00:20:40,913
A typical Venetian recipe -
428
00:20:40,938 --> 00:20:42,514
sea bass in salt crust.
429
00:20:42,539 --> 00:20:46,384
It is one of the most representative
dish of Venice.
430
00:20:46,409 --> 00:20:50,634
Why pack it with salt?
Why not just put it in the oven?
431
00:20:50,659 --> 00:20:53,464
Because the oven
is more than 200 degrees.
432
00:20:53,489 --> 00:20:56,224
Under the salt, become very hard,
433
00:20:56,249 --> 00:21:01,875
preserve and make the cooking
slowly and delicate
434
00:21:01,900 --> 00:21:04,206
and cook in its juice.
435
00:21:04,231 --> 00:21:08,166
You don't need to add oil or butter,
nothing.
436
00:21:10,061 --> 00:21:12,755
Michele starts
by beating some egg whites,
437
00:21:12,780 --> 00:21:15,206
while I mix some table salt
with coarse salt.
438
00:21:15,231 --> 00:21:18,206
Then, it's time to combine the two.
439
00:21:18,231 --> 00:21:21,086
Why not use the whole egg?
Why just the egg white?
440
00:21:21,111 --> 00:21:24,805
Because you have a crust pink.
That's OK.
441
00:21:24,830 --> 00:21:27,206
If you want, but I prefer white.
442
00:21:27,231 --> 00:21:29,116
What does the fish think?
443
00:21:30,261 --> 00:21:33,726
Yeah, yeah. He prefer white.
He'd prefer white, yeah.
444
00:21:33,751 --> 00:21:35,875
How did you know?
He was only talking to me.
445
00:21:35,900 --> 00:21:37,516
It's Venetian fish.
446
00:21:37,541 --> 00:21:38,956
THEY LAUGH
447
00:21:40,111 --> 00:21:42,956
After laying the sea bass
on a bed of salt,
448
00:21:42,981 --> 00:21:48,036
Michele adds to the belly
basil, thyme and lemon,
449
00:21:48,061 --> 00:21:50,366
before covering it with the salt mix
450
00:21:50,391 --> 00:21:52,726
and putting it
straight into the oven.
451
00:21:55,141 --> 00:22:00,516
195-200 for 25, 30 minutes.
452
00:22:02,421 --> 00:22:05,286
Venice has been selling salt
from its shores
453
00:22:05,311 --> 00:22:08,646
since the start of the city,
back in the 6th century.
454
00:22:08,671 --> 00:22:11,316
Eventually,
they had a monopoly on its sale,
455
00:22:11,341 --> 00:22:13,086
throughout the Mediterranean,
456
00:22:13,111 --> 00:22:15,646
so this dish is more than
just a local favourite,
457
00:22:15,671 --> 00:22:18,236
its a celebration
of Venetian history.
458
00:22:22,621 --> 00:22:24,646
Ahh.
459
00:22:24,671 --> 00:22:27,436
That is fabulous.
460
00:22:27,461 --> 00:22:28,875
Look.
461
00:22:28,900 --> 00:22:29,956
HE TAPS
462
00:22:29,981 --> 00:22:35,125
This is the sound.
It's like a stone. It's like a rock.
463
00:22:35,150 --> 00:22:39,076
Now, for open,
you need a knife like this.
464
00:22:39,101 --> 00:22:40,366
And, so...
465
00:22:44,341 --> 00:22:46,206
And now it's ready to open...
466
00:22:47,311 --> 00:22:51,516
...like this. Mmm.
467
00:22:51,541 --> 00:22:53,406
Michele is serving the fish
468
00:22:53,431 --> 00:22:57,845
with some very simply steamed
carrots, courgettes and potatoes.
469
00:22:57,870 --> 00:23:01,486
Last touch,
a good extra virgin oil.
470
00:23:01,511 --> 00:23:02,845
Stop.
471
00:23:10,431 --> 00:23:11,816
Oh, my friend.
472
00:23:13,201 --> 00:23:15,376
Oh, my word.
473
00:23:15,401 --> 00:23:18,286
Let me tell you,
that flesh is so soft,
474
00:23:18,311 --> 00:23:20,736
you don't even need to chew it.
475
00:23:20,761 --> 00:23:23,536
It's absolutely, as they say,
melting in the mouth.
476
00:23:23,561 --> 00:23:25,736
That is the way to cook the fish.
477
00:23:25,761 --> 00:23:27,256
What have you got there?
478
00:23:27,281 --> 00:23:30,095
A great bottle of Prosecco.
479
00:23:30,120 --> 00:23:33,566
You know, Prosecco
is the wine of Venice.
480
00:23:33,591 --> 00:23:35,456
The production is in Treviso.
481
00:23:35,481 --> 00:23:38,686
So, Treviso is just up the road
from Venice.
482
00:23:38,711 --> 00:23:40,256
Come on, open it up. We open...
483
00:23:41,870 --> 00:23:43,046
CORK POPS
484
00:23:45,591 --> 00:23:47,736
How do you say cheers in Venetian?
Salute?
485
00:23:47,761 --> 00:23:50,176
Salute. Salute, Gregg.
486
00:23:51,670 --> 00:23:52,816
Mmm.
487
00:23:54,281 --> 00:23:55,566
This is lovely.
488
00:23:55,591 --> 00:23:57,206
So, I've got a beautiful fish,
489
00:23:57,231 --> 00:24:00,456
that's been cooked like this
by the Venetians for centuries,
490
00:24:00,481 --> 00:24:03,376
from a fish market
that is a thousand years old,
491
00:24:03,401 --> 00:24:07,845
with Prosecco that I didn't realise
comes from down the road.
492
00:24:07,870 --> 00:24:11,816
This is what they call a good day.
493
00:24:11,841 --> 00:24:17,486
Coming up, I check out Venice's
own version of the Sistine Chapel.
494
00:24:17,511 --> 00:24:21,326
Come and have a look at this.
495
00:24:21,351 --> 00:24:25,376
Ancl turn my hand to a bit
of 14th century mask-making.
496
00:24:25,401 --> 00:24:28,756
I'm gonna be Greggio Mascarero.
497
00:24:35,701 --> 00:24:38,906
Venice is a byword
for opulence and wealth
498
00:24:38,931 --> 00:24:41,476
and nowhere is that more evident
499
00:24:41,501 --> 00:24:44,145
than in the famous square
at the heart of the city.
500
00:24:44,170 --> 00:24:46,626
Piazza San Marco.
501
00:24:47,731 --> 00:24:49,315
You are fabulous.
502
00:24:49,340 --> 00:24:53,116
I have heard that St Mark's
is the perfect place to understand
503
00:24:53,141 --> 00:24:57,036
how these islands, settled by
refugees back in the 6th century,
504
00:24:57,061 --> 00:24:59,315
became so grand and important,
505
00:24:59,340 --> 00:25:01,476
so, I've arranged a guide
to show me around.
506
00:25:02,571 --> 00:25:04,546
Frederica, right? Yes. I'm Gregg.
507
00:25:04,571 --> 00:25:06,315
Good to meet you. You are my guide.
508
00:25:06,340 --> 00:25:08,706
Yes, I am, nice to meet you.
Are you good at history?
509
00:25:08,731 --> 00:25:10,515
Because I need something
explaining to me.
510
00:25:10,540 --> 00:25:13,596
How did this small island
in the north of Italy
511
00:25:13,621 --> 00:25:17,796
become so rich, so powerful
and so famous?
512
00:25:17,821 --> 00:25:19,986
Look at this magnificent building.
513
00:25:20,011 --> 00:25:22,065
This is one of the most important
514
00:25:22,090 --> 00:25:24,466
Roman Catholic churches
in the world.
515
00:25:24,491 --> 00:25:26,116
Why is this important?
516
00:25:26,141 --> 00:25:30,596
It's beautiful, but why is this
important to the story of Venice?
517
00:25:30,621 --> 00:25:34,986
Because here we have the body,
the relics of St Mark.
518
00:25:35,011 --> 00:25:39,546
Who? St Mark. How did Venice
get the body of St Mark?
519
00:25:39,571 --> 00:25:41,466
Look.
520
00:25:41,491 --> 00:25:43,676
Can you see the first mosaic?
521
00:25:43,701 --> 00:25:47,315
They went to Egypt
when it was a Muslim country.
522
00:25:47,340 --> 00:25:49,986
Venetians took the body of St Mark
523
00:25:50,011 --> 00:25:52,956
and put him inside,
into that basket,
524
00:25:52,981 --> 00:25:55,466
hidden by pork meat,
525
00:25:55,491 --> 00:26:01,346
because Egyptians, they do not like
pork, because of their religion.
526
00:26:01,371 --> 00:26:03,756
You see the reaction they had?
527
00:26:03,781 --> 00:26:05,546
They were disgusted.
528
00:26:05,571 --> 00:26:08,956
Can you see?
They are doing like, "Ooh."
529
00:26:08,981 --> 00:26:11,876
What am I watching on this?
Am I watching a robbery?
530
00:26:11,901 --> 00:26:14,796
No, no, no, no, no.
We borrowed the body.
531
00:26:14,821 --> 00:26:15,956
HE LAUGHS
532
00:26:15,981 --> 00:26:20,236
When were you thinking
of returning it?
533
00:26:20,261 --> 00:26:21,466
Who knows?
534
00:26:21,491 --> 00:26:23,626
THEY LAUGH
535
00:26:23,651 --> 00:26:25,515
I love this story.
536
00:26:25,540 --> 00:26:26,906
I love this story!
537
00:26:26,931 --> 00:26:29,106
But I'm trying to understand
538
00:26:29,131 --> 00:26:32,466
why the Venetians
would go to all of that trouble.
539
00:26:32,491 --> 00:26:36,826
Because we would like to give
a religious foundation
540
00:26:36,851 --> 00:26:39,156
to the new Republic of Venice.
541
00:26:39,181 --> 00:26:43,076
They're saying, "Here we are,
we are a big, important state,
542
00:26:43,101 --> 00:26:45,385
"right here,
in the middle of a lagoon."
543
00:26:45,410 --> 00:26:47,546
That is a big, big statement.
544
00:26:47,571 --> 00:26:49,156
Having the body of a saint
545
00:26:49,181 --> 00:26:51,796
catapulted the city
into the limelight,
546
00:26:51,821 --> 00:26:54,596
with pilgrims travelling miles
from all around
547
00:26:54,621 --> 00:26:56,346
to be near St Mark's remains.
548
00:26:56,371 --> 00:26:59,676
Following this, the Venetians
built up their republic
549
00:26:59,701 --> 00:27:04,876
into one of the richest and most
powerful centres in the world.
550
00:27:04,901 --> 00:27:07,076
What made Venice so big?
What was it?
551
00:27:07,101 --> 00:27:10,106
We were very good merchants
and traders in the past.
552
00:27:10,131 --> 00:27:11,906
Trading where?
553
00:27:11,931 --> 00:27:15,106
All over the Adriatic
and Mediterranean Sea,
554
00:27:15,131 --> 00:27:16,626
up to the north of Europe.
555
00:27:16,651 --> 00:27:19,435
We were controlling all that trade.
556
00:27:19,460 --> 00:27:23,346
From one small city
in the north of Italy?
557
00:27:23,371 --> 00:27:26,185
No, Gregg, no,
it was not simply a city.
558
00:27:26,210 --> 00:27:27,746
It was a big state.
559
00:27:27,771 --> 00:27:32,385
Croatia, Dalmatia, Greek islands,
Cyprus and Crete -
560
00:27:32,410 --> 00:27:35,826
they were part of
the Republic of Venice in the past.
561
00:27:35,851 --> 00:27:38,906
That's not a republic,
that's an empire. Yes, it was.
562
00:27:38,931 --> 00:27:43,356
This square is full of incredible
palaces and churches you can visit,
563
00:27:43,381 --> 00:27:45,076
but I've chosen to head high
564
00:27:45,101 --> 00:27:49,315
and visit the tallest building
in the city - the Campanile.
565
00:27:49,340 --> 00:27:51,906
It was originally built
back in the 12th century
566
00:27:51,931 --> 00:27:54,870
to help the Venetians watch
who was sailing in and out.
567
00:27:54,895 --> 00:27:57,443
This one is a 20th century
replacement
568
00:27:57,468 --> 00:28:00,373
and the perfect spot
to get a bird's eye view.
569
00:28:00,398 --> 00:28:03,784
Whoa! Come on.
570
00:28:03,809 --> 00:28:07,344
Look, Gregg, look how beautiful
is this side of the city.
571
00:28:07,369 --> 00:28:09,503
It's beautiful on every side.
It is true.
572
00:28:09,528 --> 00:28:11,293
Maybe you know, Gregg,
573
00:28:11,318 --> 00:28:14,373
that Galileo Galilei
came in the bath tub
574
00:28:14,398 --> 00:28:16,704
in the same place where we are now.
575
00:28:16,729 --> 00:28:19,293
Is this where Galileo
gazed at the stars?
576
00:28:19,318 --> 00:28:22,604
I mean, actually,
he was showing his telescope
577
00:28:22,629 --> 00:28:24,754
to the government of Venice.
578
00:28:24,779 --> 00:28:26,894
Was he Venetian, Galileo?
579
00:28:26,919 --> 00:28:28,784
No, he was not from Venice,
580
00:28:28,809 --> 00:28:31,423
but he worked
for the government of Venice.
581
00:28:31,448 --> 00:28:32,503
If he wasn't Venetian,
582
00:28:32,528 --> 00:28:34,784
what's he doing working
for the Venetian government?
583
00:28:34,809 --> 00:28:37,534
Because, here we had
a very open mind.
584
00:28:37,559 --> 00:28:40,423
We love exploration,
we love stars,
585
00:28:40,448 --> 00:28:42,984
we love giving people
the possibility
586
00:28:43,009 --> 00:28:46,253
to show their free thoughts.
587
00:28:46,278 --> 00:28:49,144
And, so, he was actually
saying something
588
00:28:49,169 --> 00:28:51,754
against what the Church was saying.
589
00:28:51,779 --> 00:28:54,004
The sun is in the middle
of the universe
590
00:28:54,029 --> 00:28:56,423
and the Earth is going around.
591
00:28:56,448 --> 00:28:58,654
That was a new theory.
592
00:28:58,679 --> 00:29:00,173
But he was a great man.
593
00:29:00,198 --> 00:29:03,423
Sure, he was. Which is why Freddie
Mercury said, "Galileo, magnifico."
594
00:29:03,448 --> 00:29:04,864
Exactly. Brilliant. Exactly.
595
00:29:04,889 --> 00:29:06,623
I understand completely.
596
00:29:06,648 --> 00:29:08,014
Good.
597
00:29:13,479 --> 00:29:16,623
I'm packing in tons of exploring
by foot,
598
00:29:16,648 --> 00:29:20,884
but, sometimes, it's nice to escape
the heat of the afternoon sun.
599
00:29:20,909 --> 00:29:24,934
A 20-minute walk from St Mark's
Square, in the San Polo district,
600
00:29:24,959 --> 00:29:30,094
is the perfect spot to get indoors
and see some of Venice's grandeur.
601
00:29:31,239 --> 00:29:35,173
One of the amazing things about
Venice is the amount of fine art.
602
00:29:35,198 --> 00:29:36,654
I mean, back in its heyday,
603
00:29:36,679 --> 00:29:39,094
there were some
seriously rich people here.
604
00:29:39,119 --> 00:29:41,094
The wealthy and the powerful,
605
00:29:41,119 --> 00:29:44,264
they loved to be patrons for
the great artists of the day.
606
00:29:44,289 --> 00:29:47,034
But, do you know,
you don't need to go to a museum
607
00:29:47,059 --> 00:29:48,643
or queue up to see some pieces.
608
00:29:48,668 --> 00:29:52,349
There is beautiful art here
everywhere. Come on.
609
00:29:56,111 --> 00:29:59,566
This is the Scuola Grande
di San Rocco.
610
00:29:59,591 --> 00:30:03,806
Back in the 16th century,
it was set up as a lay fraternity.
611
00:30:03,831 --> 00:30:08,285
That's a kind of religious club
for really, really rich Venetians.
612
00:30:08,310 --> 00:30:11,566
It's also home
to something rather special.
613
00:30:11,591 --> 00:30:15,555
Come and have a look at this.
614
00:30:21,310 --> 00:30:25,535
Every single picture in this room
was done by one man
615
00:30:25,560 --> 00:30:28,285
and his name was Tintoretto,
616
00:30:28,310 --> 00:30:32,285
one of the finest Venetian artists
of the Renaissance period.
617
00:30:32,310 --> 00:30:35,206
It took him 20 years
to finish this room
618
00:30:35,231 --> 00:30:37,926
and it's considered
as his finest work.
619
00:30:37,951 --> 00:30:41,006
It's a bit, I suppose,
like Venice's Sistine Chapel.
620
00:30:41,031 --> 00:30:43,996
But Tintoretto
almost didn't get the job,
621
00:30:44,021 --> 00:30:46,646
cos the people in charge,
they asked local artists
622
00:30:46,671 --> 00:30:49,726
to send in drawings of their plans,
what they planned to do.
623
00:30:49,751 --> 00:30:51,776
Tintoretto didn't send in
any drawings at all.
624
00:30:51,801 --> 00:30:53,415
Do you know what he did?
Listen to this.
625
00:30:53,440 --> 00:30:54,976
He broke in here at night
626
00:30:55,001 --> 00:30:58,086
and he stuck one of his pictures
up on the ceiling.
627
00:30:58,111 --> 00:30:59,696
When the people came in
in the morning,
628
00:30:59,721 --> 00:31:01,566
liked the picture,
gave him the job.
629
00:31:01,591 --> 00:31:03,926
Now, how about that? That's gutsy.
630
00:31:10,741 --> 00:31:13,746
Venice has hundreds of bridges,
631
00:31:13,771 --> 00:31:16,566
built in all sorts
of shapes and sizes.
632
00:31:16,591 --> 00:31:21,086
But, here, in Dorsoduro,
I've got a favourite.
633
00:31:21,111 --> 00:31:22,846
Come and have a look at this bridge,
634
00:31:22,871 --> 00:31:25,415
because it's not the most beautiful
of bridges in Venice,
635
00:31:25,440 --> 00:31:27,365
but I think it's got the best story.
636
00:31:27,390 --> 00:31:31,896
This is the Ponte dei Pugni
and it means the Bridge of Fists
637
00:31:31,921 --> 00:31:35,615
and a story here that goes back
to the 14th century.
638
00:31:35,640 --> 00:31:38,126
There were lots of different gangs
in Venice, OK.
639
00:31:38,151 --> 00:31:41,466
Two of the biggest gangs were
the guys who worked in the Navy
640
00:31:41,491 --> 00:31:42,766
and the fishermen.
641
00:31:42,791 --> 00:31:46,976
And, every year, they would have
a massive fistfight on this bridge.
642
00:31:47,001 --> 00:31:48,535
Now, it was organised.
643
00:31:48,560 --> 00:31:52,816
It could be single combat or it
could be a great big group brawl.
644
00:31:52,841 --> 00:31:55,746
The idea was
to knock your opponent out cold
645
00:31:55,771 --> 00:31:58,746
and send him
into the dirty cold water below.
646
00:31:58,771 --> 00:32:00,505
That happened here,
every single year.
647
00:32:00,530 --> 00:32:05,196
Now, what I find amazing is we think
of Venice as a sophisticated city
648
00:32:05,221 --> 00:32:09,635
and, nowadays, it is, but its roots
are most certainly working class.
649
00:32:09,660 --> 00:32:12,505
Bridge of Fists. Big tear-up.
650
00:32:20,091 --> 00:32:23,276
But, while some Venetians got
their kicks in street brawls,
651
00:32:23,301 --> 00:32:26,146
there was a slightly more
appealing way of enjoying yourself,
652
00:32:26,171 --> 00:32:27,505
back in the day.
653
00:32:27,530 --> 00:32:30,116
Now, we're all used to
wearing masks these days,
654
00:32:30,141 --> 00:32:34,505
but in the 12th century, the reason
for wearing them was very different.
655
00:32:34,530 --> 00:32:37,555
Full facemasks
were worn as disguises,
656
00:32:37,580 --> 00:32:39,996
so social classes could mix together
657
00:32:40,021 --> 00:32:42,836
and have fun
while remaining anonymous.
658
00:32:42,861 --> 00:32:47,066
And you can still buy those masks
today at places like Ca' Macana.
659
00:32:47,091 --> 00:32:49,226
They'll even let you
have a go at making your own,
660
00:32:49,251 --> 00:32:51,066
with designers like Eloisa.
661
00:32:51,091 --> 00:32:57,356
OK, Gregg, we're gonna start
by taking a paintbrush each.
662
00:32:57,381 --> 00:33:01,356
We're gonna cover
the whole of our mask with blue.
663
00:33:01,381 --> 00:33:04,196
Have I chosen a specific?
You actually have.
664
00:33:04,221 --> 00:33:07,066
This mask comes from
the commedia dell'arte,
665
00:33:07,091 --> 00:33:12,066
which is the first professional
theatre that was born in Europe,
666
00:33:12,091 --> 00:33:14,116
back in the 15005.
667
00:33:14,141 --> 00:33:16,946
This character
is called The Captain.
668
00:33:16,971 --> 00:33:18,786
What sort of character is he?
669
00:33:18,811 --> 00:33:22,305
Does he have hair? Is he
good-looking? Does he like food?
670
00:33:22,330 --> 00:33:24,305
He doesn't have hair. He likes food.
671
00:33:24,330 --> 00:33:28,706
He's one of those ones.
Not far from you, actually.
672
00:33:28,731 --> 00:33:31,385
Masks were worn
in carnival celebrations
673
00:33:31,410 --> 00:33:35,226
up until the 18th century,
when Napoleon descended on Venice.
674
00:33:35,251 --> 00:33:38,966
The festivities ceased to exist
for nearly 200 years,
675
00:33:38,991 --> 00:33:44,326
until it was finally brought back in
1979, to revive Venice's heritage.
676
00:33:44,351 --> 00:33:46,896
That is really good. Thank you.
677
00:33:46,921 --> 00:33:48,326
I'm really happy with that.
678
00:33:48,351 --> 00:33:51,256
What is a mask-maker? What do
you call a mask-maker in Venice?
679
00:33:51,281 --> 00:33:52,566
Mascarero.
680
00:33:52,591 --> 00:33:55,846
I'm gonna be Greggio Mascarero.
681
00:33:55,871 --> 00:34:00,096
When masks became hugely popular
in the 14005, mask-making became
682
00:34:00,121 --> 00:34:03,285
a properly recognised profession
in the community.
683
00:34:03,310 --> 00:34:05,646
I do not recognise that machine
at all.
684
00:34:05,671 --> 00:34:07,256
L have never seen one.
685
00:34:07,281 --> 00:34:09,096
It dries your hair!
686
00:34:09,121 --> 00:34:10,766
THEY LAUGH
687
00:34:10,791 --> 00:34:15,126
I remember, I kind of remember,
maybe 50 years ago, I saw one.
688
00:34:16,231 --> 00:34:18,766
OK, well... So, you dry...
689
00:34:23,151 --> 00:34:25,046
That's it? Let me touch.
690
00:34:25,071 --> 00:34:26,206
Yeah, fantastic.
691
00:34:26,231 --> 00:34:27,686
Great.
692
00:34:27,711 --> 00:34:31,566
Finally, we add a few silver details
to finish off the mask.
693
00:34:31,591 --> 00:34:34,766
What were people getting up to,
wearing these masks?
694
00:34:34,791 --> 00:34:39,326
So, nothing good, really. They were
up to loads of illicit affairs,
695
00:34:39,351 --> 00:34:40,926
like political con plots,
696
00:34:40,951 --> 00:34:43,176
they would assassinate people,
697
00:34:43,201 --> 00:34:45,376
no-one would know who you are
behind it.
698
00:34:45,401 --> 00:34:48,376
Loads of really strange stuff
that you couldn't do
699
00:34:48,401 --> 00:34:50,046
if you were recognisable.
700
00:34:50,071 --> 00:34:53,326
What do you think of my decoration?
Very nice.
701
00:35:03,041 --> 00:35:04,535
Shh! It's me.
702
00:35:04,560 --> 00:35:07,326
Under here is a bald bloke
who likes puddings.
703
00:35:07,351 --> 00:35:09,176
HE LAUGHS
704
00:35:09,201 --> 00:35:12,735
# La, dah, la-da-da
705
00:35:12,760 --> 00:35:16,566
# La-da, da-da-dee! #
706
00:35:16,591 --> 00:35:18,926
Gonna do something illicit.
707
00:35:21,911 --> 00:35:24,735
Coming up, out in Venice's Lagoon...
708
00:35:24,760 --> 00:35:26,046
HE LAUGHS
709
00:35:26,071 --> 00:35:29,206
...I discover that there's
no such thing as a free lunch.
710
00:35:29,231 --> 00:35:31,863
Come on, fishies, come on.
711
00:35:45,489 --> 00:35:47,663
It's my final day in Venice
712
00:35:47,688 --> 00:35:50,584
and I'm doing as the locals do here
on the weekend
713
00:35:50,609 --> 00:35:53,474
and heading out of the city by boat.
714
00:35:53,499 --> 00:35:58,714
Venice is actually at the heart of
a giant lagoon. It's 40 miles long.
715
00:35:58,739 --> 00:36:02,584
80% of it is salt marshes
and mudflats.
716
00:36:02,609 --> 00:36:04,783
It's not just the city of Venice
itself.
717
00:36:04,808 --> 00:36:07,993
And it's also home
to more than 70 islands
718
00:36:08,018 --> 00:36:11,144
and I've heard these islands
are a great place to relax,
719
00:36:11,169 --> 00:36:13,944
so I'm heading to one now,
to explore.
720
00:36:15,049 --> 00:36:16,704
And you're invited!
721
00:36:20,449 --> 00:36:23,144
Islands like glassblowing Murano,
722
00:36:23,169 --> 00:36:25,704
or the Lido with its beach,
are popular,
723
00:36:25,729 --> 00:36:29,194
but I've chosen to head 45 minutes
across the Lagoon
724
00:36:29,219 --> 00:36:31,993
to the lesser-known fishing island,
Burano.
725
00:36:32,018 --> 00:36:35,834
Morning fog is not unusual here,
but tradition says
726
00:36:35,859 --> 00:36:39,064
that all the houses should
be painted brightly-coloured,
727
00:36:39,089 --> 00:36:43,224
so that I, like the fishermen,
can see where I'm going.
728
00:36:44,249 --> 00:36:48,224
This island, this very colourful
island, has a particular cuisine,
729
00:36:48,249 --> 00:36:51,304
so I've arranged to meet
an expert guide
730
00:36:51,329 --> 00:36:55,634
and she's promised to show me an
iconic dish from start to finish.
731
00:36:55,659 --> 00:36:58,704
Having inhabited the island
since the 6th century,
732
00:36:58,729 --> 00:37:04,024
natives, including my guide, Silvia,
fondly call themselves Buranelli.
733
00:37:04,049 --> 00:37:05,474
Ciao!
734
00:37:05,499 --> 00:37:08,554
You're Silvia, right?
It's me, hi, Gregg, how are you?
735
00:37:08,579 --> 00:37:11,704
I'm happy, but I'm hungry.
Are you taking me for lunch?
736
00:37:11,729 --> 00:37:14,863
Of course. We're gonna eat
some delicious seafood later,
737
00:37:14,888 --> 00:37:17,064
but, first, there is a surprise.
738
00:37:17,089 --> 00:37:19,064
You know that Burano
is an island of fishermen,
739
00:37:19,089 --> 00:37:20,274
so we're going out fishing.
740
00:37:20,299 --> 00:37:22,424
We're catching the fish
we're gonna eat later.
741
00:37:22,449 --> 00:37:23,663
Really? Yes.
742
00:37:23,688 --> 00:37:25,384
The boat is waiting for us.
743
00:37:25,409 --> 00:37:29,194
OK, OK, come on, let's go.
Let's go. Andiamo.
744
00:37:32,008 --> 00:37:33,064
Whoa.
745
00:37:35,219 --> 00:37:39,194
In this part of the Lagoon
is another island, Torcello,
746
00:37:39,219 --> 00:37:41,224
the first island to be settled here,
747
00:37:41,249 --> 00:37:45,144
and a powerful trading centre,
before Venice.
748
00:37:45,169 --> 00:37:47,913
With the early settlers, this is
what Venice looked like. Exactly.
749
00:37:47,938 --> 00:37:51,113
Absolutely amazing
to think that the Grand Canal,
750
00:37:51,138 --> 00:37:53,304
all the beautiful houses,
the Doge's Palace,
751
00:37:53,329 --> 00:37:56,304
Piazza San Marco,
is built on something like that.
752
00:37:56,329 --> 00:37:57,834
Exactly.
753
00:37:57,859 --> 00:38:01,113
Now we can fish, right? Yes.
What fish do we want?
754
00:38:01,138 --> 00:38:03,754
The go. Go. Exactly.
755
00:38:03,779 --> 00:38:07,304
It's one of the most important fish
we have in the Lagoon.
756
00:38:07,329 --> 00:38:10,834
When the Buranelli fishermen
were putting the nets outside,
757
00:38:10,859 --> 00:38:13,834
to get bigger fish,
they got tons of go.
758
00:38:13,859 --> 00:38:16,944
But no-one wanted to buy them,
because they were too skinny,
759
00:38:16,969 --> 00:38:19,144
so there was no market for the go.
760
00:38:19,169 --> 00:38:23,113
So, instead of letting them go,
they would cook them on the boat
761
00:38:23,138 --> 00:38:25,064
and prepare lunch for the fishermen.
762
00:38:25,089 --> 00:38:28,584
The broth made with go
is simply delicious. Right.
763
00:38:28,609 --> 00:38:31,783
But it was invented by chance.
764
00:38:33,219 --> 00:38:35,344
So, now it's time to go fishing
765
00:38:35,369 --> 00:38:37,754
or go go fishing, rather.
766
00:38:37,779 --> 00:38:40,224
Perfecto! Yes. Bravo.
767
00:38:40,249 --> 00:38:43,504
Except it's not like any
kind of fishing I've seen before.
768
00:38:43,529 --> 00:38:45,754
We're using poles
with nets at the bottom,
769
00:38:45,779 --> 00:38:48,863
filling them with bait
and shoving them into the mud.
770
00:38:48,888 --> 00:38:51,584
Come on, fishies, come on.
771
00:38:51,609 --> 00:38:54,584
Waiting for the fish
to take the bait gives me some time
772
00:38:54,609 --> 00:38:57,554
to appreciate the beauty
of this unusual landscape.
773
00:38:57,579 --> 00:39:01,064
I think this is a wonderful day
to visit. It's very charming.
774
00:39:01,089 --> 00:39:05,414
I think it shows the uniqueness of
the Lagoon. It's very atmospheric.
775
00:39:06,499 --> 00:39:08,474
Right, shall we bring our catch in?
776
00:39:08,499 --> 00:39:10,674
Let's see. Let's go get the go,
shall we?
777
00:39:10,699 --> 00:39:12,294
Let's go get the go.
Go, go, go, go, go.
778
00:39:12,319 --> 00:39:13,903
HE STRAINS
779
00:39:13,928 --> 00:39:16,064
Hey, hey, hey! Bravo.
780
00:39:17,529 --> 00:39:19,863
Ohh! This is brilliant.
781
00:39:21,569 --> 00:39:24,314
There you go, look.
I've caught my lunch.
782
00:39:24,339 --> 00:39:28,903
With our catch in tow,
Silvia and I return to Burano
783
00:39:28,928 --> 00:39:32,854
to make a traditional
fish broth risotto, risotto di go,
784
00:39:32,879 --> 00:39:37,504
at a local restaurant who supposedly
make the best one around.
785
00:39:38,649 --> 00:39:43,594
Hello. Come ti chiami? Paolo. Paolo?
Mio nome Gregg. Boom!
786
00:39:43,619 --> 00:39:47,144
OK. Buono risotto. Andiamo!
787
00:39:47,169 --> 00:39:51,224
Is this brodo or riso? Brodo. Brodo.
788
00:39:51,249 --> 00:39:53,954
So this is making the broth?
Brodo, brodo.
789
00:39:53,979 --> 00:39:58,984
And this is everything,
because rice has no flavour.
790
00:39:59,009 --> 00:40:01,834
So, the only flavour is the brodo.
791
00:40:01,859 --> 00:40:02,913
The brodo, si.
792
00:40:02,938 --> 00:40:05,604
So, soffritto,
so that's chopped up vegetables.
793
00:40:05,629 --> 00:40:08,873
Come si vede. Olio? Olio d'oliva.
794
00:40:08,898 --> 00:40:12,043
Does he know
that I caught that fish?
795
00:40:12,068 --> 00:40:14,793
Sai che l'ha preso lui.
L'ha preso lui?
796
00:40:14,818 --> 00:40:16,764
Si, si, si, si.
797
00:40:16,789 --> 00:40:19,043
Come on, come on.
798
00:40:19,068 --> 00:40:21,274
OK. We have the brodo.
799
00:40:21,299 --> 00:40:22,964
Si. My fish broth.
800
00:40:22,989 --> 00:40:25,654
Now we make the risotto,
with the riso?
801
00:40:25,679 --> 00:40:27,143
Versiamo.
802
00:40:27,168 --> 00:40:29,374
He puts the rice
straight into the broth?
803
00:40:29,399 --> 00:40:32,434
Exactly. This is the difference
between Buranello risotto
804
00:40:32,459 --> 00:40:33,764
and the rest of the world.
805
00:40:36,539 --> 00:40:37,993
What are you doing?
806
00:40:38,018 --> 00:40:40,404
It's like Vesuvio.
807
00:40:40,429 --> 00:40:42,554
The rice is jumping. Whoa.
808
00:40:42,579 --> 00:40:44,224
Me?
809
00:40:47,709 --> 00:40:49,324
Al contrario.
810
00:40:49,349 --> 00:40:50,404
Backwards.
811
00:40:50,429 --> 00:40:52,884
Hey! Ohhh.
812
00:40:52,909 --> 00:40:54,534
Oh, no.
813
00:40:54,559 --> 00:40:57,063
Sorry. No more.
814
00:40:57,088 --> 00:40:59,194
Finito. Oh, I'm sorry.
815
00:40:59,219 --> 00:41:01,289
Hey, wonderful.
816
00:41:01,314 --> 00:41:03,683
After all that catching
and prepping,
817
00:41:03,708 --> 00:41:07,242
it's finally time to eat
the fruits of our labour.
818
00:41:07,267 --> 00:41:09,193
Right.
819
00:41:09,218 --> 00:41:11,433
After watching that, I am hungry.
820
00:41:11,458 --> 00:41:12,713
Definitely.
821
00:41:12,738 --> 00:41:14,912
It's so good,
I can't wait to taste it.
822
00:41:14,937 --> 00:41:18,403
So, it's not often
that I actually catch the food
823
00:41:18,428 --> 00:41:21,433
I'm gonna have for lunch
and then cook it as well.
824
00:41:21,458 --> 00:41:23,573
It's a special day today.
825
00:41:25,448 --> 00:41:26,833
Grazie.
826
00:41:27,937 --> 00:41:28,912
Hey.
827
00:41:30,858 --> 00:41:33,073
Grazie. Grazie.
828
00:41:33,098 --> 00:41:35,792
Right, shall we? Let's go.
829
00:41:38,458 --> 00:41:41,153
That is stunning.
830
00:41:41,178 --> 00:41:42,792
It's super tasty.
831
00:41:42,817 --> 00:41:44,992
That is absolutely beautiful.
832
00:41:45,017 --> 00:41:46,963
There was just
a little bit of give in the rice
833
00:41:46,988 --> 00:41:49,143
and that just tastes of the sea.
834
00:41:49,168 --> 00:41:51,812
It's got a little bit of acidity,
like wine,
835
00:41:51,837 --> 00:41:54,042
but it's almost sweet from the sea.
836
00:41:54,067 --> 00:41:56,242
That has got so much flavour.
837
00:41:56,267 --> 00:41:59,753
Can you see Burano
and taste Burano in this?
838
00:41:59,778 --> 00:42:01,433
I can taste it, definitely.
839
00:42:01,458 --> 00:42:04,323
That's lovely.
So can I now, as well.
840
00:42:04,348 --> 00:42:06,162
Actually, I can taste
a little bit of me in it.
841
00:42:06,187 --> 00:42:08,112
I was out there catching the fish.
842
00:42:08,137 --> 00:42:10,753
Exactly, well done, Gregg.
843
00:42:16,738 --> 00:42:18,653
As I travel back to Venice,
844
00:42:18,678 --> 00:42:21,343
it gives me a chance
to reflect on my time here,
845
00:42:21,368 --> 00:42:23,273
before I head to the airport.
846
00:42:23,298 --> 00:42:27,032
I've seen a side of Venice
that I've never seen before
847
00:42:27,057 --> 00:42:29,883
and it's taught me
that it really is possible
848
00:42:29,908 --> 00:42:33,473
to enjoy all the sights
and splendour on a budget.
849
00:42:33,498 --> 00:42:35,992
I've had a fabulous time
here in Venice.
850
00:42:36,017 --> 00:42:39,523
You know, I've eaten some great food
and there is lots to see and do.
851
00:42:39,548 --> 00:42:42,603
But, you know, if you go beyond
the majestic facades
852
00:42:42,628 --> 00:42:45,353
and the romantic canals,
there's the other Venice,
853
00:42:45,378 --> 00:42:47,262
the Venice of the Venetians.
854
00:42:47,287 --> 00:42:49,992
And, let me tell you,
it is a lot more affordable.
855
00:42:50,017 --> 00:42:51,912
What do I think of the Venetians?
856
00:42:51,937 --> 00:42:54,473
Really, I think
they're a city of grafters.
857
00:42:54,498 --> 00:42:56,673
I mean, they managed
to eke out an existence
858
00:42:56,698 --> 00:42:59,473
on some marshy islands
in the middle of the sea
859
00:42:59,498 --> 00:43:01,273
and they turned it into this,
860
00:43:01,298 --> 00:43:04,242
the incredible, beautiful Venice
we see today.
861
00:43:04,267 --> 00:43:07,713
And, more than that,
they know how to have a good time.
862
00:43:11,778 --> 00:43:14,773
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