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I'm Bettany Hughes and I want to
take you on the ultimate adventure,
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across the Greek islands.
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This has to be one of the most
exciting places on Earth.
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A place full of mystery and wonder,
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and tens of thousands of years
of history and human experience.
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A cradle of civilisation,
the Greece of the ancient world
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hot housed everything,
from democracy to medicine.
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It gave us the Olympics,
engineering triumphs
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and some of the most epic stories
of all time.
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Stories that have been
passed down for thousands of years,
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and that still influence us today.
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One of the very greatest centres on
the Greek hero, Odysseus.
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The legendary warrior whose cunning
won the Trojan War.
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After the victory, he begins a long
journey home to the far
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west of Greece across these seas.
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His story, the Odyssey,
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is a brilliant tale of triumph over
adversity and danger.
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Inspiring books,
movies and adventures.
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And on my personal odyssey
I'm following Odysseus' path
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from east to west.
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I want to try to experience what
he experienced...
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Whoa!
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...make amazing new discoveries...
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Still... It's just perfect.
..bright yellow, isn't it?
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...enjoy the delights of ancient
Greece today... Mmm!
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...and uncover the truths behind
these fabulous myths and legends...
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And this is almost certainly
the killer blow.
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...to see how they can help us
understand the world, and ourselves.
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Join me on this epic voyage,
my Greek odyssey.
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I'm crossing the Aegean Sea on the
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trail of the legendary Greek hero,
Odysseus.
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Last time, like him,
I risked being shipwrecked.
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This leg of my journey brings me
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to Santorini, Thera for the ancient
Greeks, where I discover
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the island's deadly volcano and the
story of the lost city of Atlantis.
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The most southern of the
Aegean Cycladic islands, it's a
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place of myth, fire and brimstone.
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With bad weather forecast
I'm taking the ferry.
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Captained by Michael.
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Are you from the islands or are you
from Athens? I am from Chios island.
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Do you know Chios? Chios,
that's where I started.
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You know Chios is an island,
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most of the people there are
sailors. I know. Yes.
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I always feel very safe if I'm on a
boat and the captain is from Chios.
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HE CHUCKLES
I know I'm going to be OK.
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Thank you very, very much.
SHE CHUCKLES
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Cos I'm doing this journey
all by boat,
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we got stuck in some very big
seas from lcaria to Mykonos.
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Like, it was quite terrifying.
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You know, the Aegean Sea
is a very difficult sea.
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You have to pay attention. Yes.
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Every time, every day.
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Thank you. Efharisto. Bye.
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It's not the prettiest of ports
to arrive to at Santorini,
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but this is an island that's had
an explosive influence
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on the story of the world.
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HORNS BEEP
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I'm here off-season, as the bulk of
the tourists are leaving.
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HORNS BLARE
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HORN TOOTS
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They were just honking because it
was the last ferry of the season.
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Is that why? Yes, it is closing
for the season today. That's great.
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So they're all saying goodbye until
next year. Yes.
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Oh, I'm glad I got here, then.
Yeah! See you.
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Santorini is one of the most popular
destinations in Greece.
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Visitors are lured here by the
island's epic landscapes.
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Crowding on clifftops, like Oia.
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The sunset here at Santorini is one
of the most viewed sunsets on Earth.
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And it is absolutely beautiful.
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But, ironically, the stories I'm
interested in aren't up here,
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but they're right deep in the
earth.
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Oia perches on a caldera,
a ridge of a collapsed volcano.
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The core is 389 metres underwater.
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This beautiful lagoon hides
a geological monster,
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more ferocious than any
mythical beast.
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Santorini is one giant volcano.
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Back in the Bronze Age when
Odysseus' story begins,
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it erupted with the force
of 3,000 atomic bombs.
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A boat trip is the best way to get a
sense of this volcano's mega scale.
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When I first came here the only
way to get up and down
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the sides of the volcano was by mule
or donkey. Now it's a cable car.
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I actually think I felt safer on the
mule, to be honest.
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Anyway, but we're down and the
port now.
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Right now I am heading to the
heart of a volcano that erupted
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over 3,600 years ago in what
was the most catastrophic
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volcanic explosion in the whole
of human history.
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Bringing disaster that changed
the course of civilisation and,
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I think, gave rise to one of the
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greatest myths of all time -
the lost city of Atlantis.
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My Greek island odyssey has
brought me to the epicentre
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of one of the biggest volcanic
eruptions of all time.
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These cliffs behind me,
what you are looking at is
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the crater of the volcano
rising up out of the sea.
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And the sea that I'm travelling
across now was once the cone
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of that volcano, 40 cubic miles
of it that was blown into the sky.
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Ongoing eruptions spewed up
these volcanic rocks
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inside Santorini's lagoon.
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A reminder, this whole volcano is
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still active after all these
centuries.
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Luckily, volcanologist
George Vougioukalakis
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has agreed to guide me to the
centre of activity.
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Great, thank you. Perfect, thanks.
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Some of the gases here can kill you
if you stand in the wrong place
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for too long, so we've got to
tread carefully.
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But 3,000 years ago they had a lot
more than just gases to worry about.
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So this huge eruption, how wide
reaching were the impacts from that?
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Thera triggered the ancient world's
biggest climate catastrophe.
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Ash deposits from this devastating
eruption have been found
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in the Nile in Egypt, and trees were
affected as far away as Ireland.
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But it has kept on erupting,
hasn't it, this volcano?
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Wow! 10,000?
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I mean, that serious, isn't it?
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When's it going to erupt next,
do you think?
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It will happen again on that scale?
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Comforting. You're a very
comforting presence, George,
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as we stand here right in the heart
of the volcano.
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The Greeks, in history
and in stories like Odysseus',
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thought natural disasters
were the wrath of angry gods.
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For the ancient Greeks gods
and goddesses
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and demigods were everywhere
and in everything.
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In fact, they didn't have a
separate word for religion.
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Asking a Greek if he believed
in the gods would be like asking him
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if he believed in the sea.
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There were 12 premier gods who
lived on Mount Olympus, and probably
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the most famous are Zeus, the king
of the gods and his wife, Hera.
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Apollo, the god of the sun
and his twin sister, Artemis,
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the goddess of the moon.
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00:10:07,882 --> 00:10:11,937
Aphrodite, the goddess of love
and sexual desire
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whose lover was Ares,
the god of war.
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And Poseidon the great god of the
sea and storms and earthquakes.
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Poseidon, well, a number of the gods
had it in for Odysseus.
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They despised his hubris and his
cold-blooded killing
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of soldiers and innocents alike
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so they plagues his journey
home from Troy with challenges
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and life-threatening storms.
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The Greeks believed that the gods
were bigger, brighter,
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shinier versions of themselves.
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And they were in mortal, but they
were not by any means perfect.
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In fact, they were incredibly
flawed.
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So they got drunk
and flew into blind rages
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and have affairs with one another's
wives.
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But the Greeks constantly told
stories about them
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to try to understand the world
around them and their place in it.
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Thank you. The Greeks may no longer
believe the sea is divine,
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but their relationship with it is
still a vital part of daily life.
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And Santorini pioneered
sailing technology
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centuries before other
civilisations in the Aegean.
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How long's your family been
doing these boats here?
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My family, 300 years the island.
300 years? Yeah, 300 years.
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Were they fishermen, or...?
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Yes, fisherman. My father fisherman.
Great.
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Well, thank you for giving me
the lift today. Thank you.
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It's a proud tradition which
carried on here right
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through to the 20th century.
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I thought I just had to
show you this.
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So I'd been given a tip-off,
actually by an archaeologist
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friend, that there's something
rather special in here.
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What's this? Oh, it's an oar.
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This is brilliant because this is
supposed to be the last
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remaining boat-building shed
in Santorini.
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A nice touch there, protected by an
oar.
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And the family who own it have
agreed to show me in.
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If they're here.
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Kalimera. Oh, kamlimera!
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Ti kanete? Kala, kala.
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Kala... Oh, lovely to...lovely
to meet you.
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Ti kanete? Kala.
A very warm welcome.
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THEY SPEAK GREEK
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Wow.
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Efharisto.
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Wow.
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Wow, what a place! What a place.
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I know it hasn't been used for 50
years or so, you can just smell
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the history here.
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So there, those are the moulds
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that they would have used to make
the boats.
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So each boat has its own mould, it
was made in a kind of bespoke way.
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Up at the back there, it's a kind of
forest of abandoned wood
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and a lot of that would have
come from Samos.
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An island I visited on my odyssey.
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And there's actually
a treasure chest.
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Don't know if I'm allowed
to open it.
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Not gold and silver, not pirates'
treasure, but historical treasure.
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So here are all the ships' logs
and records.
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And that is going to tell us a whole
lot about the past.
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It's actually really moving coming
here because they've been building
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ships on Santorini since prehistory,
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warships and merchant vessels
and heroic boats.
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00:14:05,501 --> 00:14:09,396
So the fact that this, the very last
boat building yard has been
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abandoned, it doesn't just
feel like it's the end of an era, it
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feels like it's the end of thousands
of years' worth of human experience.
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But this isn't the only time capsule
on the island.
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Next my odyssey on Santorini reveals
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the site of a prehistoric lost city.
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Now, you're in for a bit of a treat
because I think that this is
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one of the most inspiring places in
the ancient world.
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In the age of heroes Santorini was
a rich trading hub.
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From under the pumice, lava and
ash in the south of the island,
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00:14:52,433 --> 00:14:57,129
archaeologists are unearthing
Akrotiri - a settlement dubbed
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00:14:57,154 --> 00:14:59,909
the Pompeii of Greece, which
predates
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the Romans by well over 1,000 years.
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00:15:06,804 --> 00:15:11,889
The apocalyptic eruption of
Santorini, around 1615 BC,
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covered the town of Akrotiri with
metres of volcanic debris.
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Concealing a treasure.
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00:15:18,644 --> 00:15:21,619
And I've been given special access
to what's hidden here.
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The volcano didn't just destroy,
it also preserved.
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00:15:27,394 --> 00:15:31,619
And something truly remarkable.
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An entire prehistoric civilisation
dating back over 3,600 years.
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The terrible thing is that the
people here did actually
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have forewarning of the disaster.
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So a couple of weeks before the
eruption there were earthquakes.
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And we know that because people have
done these like wrapped up their
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00:16:01,474 --> 00:16:03,338
most valued possessions and stored
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00:16:03,363 --> 00:16:05,369
them carefully in the corners
of rooms.
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00:16:05,394 --> 00:16:09,168
Or here you can actually see they've
taken their beds outside.
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So they evacuated the town,
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00:16:11,164 --> 00:16:14,449
then thought it was safe
and came back,
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00:16:14,474 --> 00:16:18,259
only to be wiped out by the volcano.
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This exquisite gold ibex,
a breed of mountain goat
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00:16:22,164 --> 00:16:25,529
mentioned in the Odyssey, has been
found in the ruins.
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So far only a fraction of the site
has been excavated. And we now
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actually think it's ten times bigger
than we previously thought.
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00:16:35,113 --> 00:16:38,619
And there are new archaeological
excavations happening right now.
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00:16:51,284 --> 00:16:54,369
Gosh, it's very exciting to be this
close cos you're not normally
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00:16:54,394 --> 00:16:57,809
allowed to come up to the buildings
like this.
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00:16:57,834 --> 00:17:02,179
So this is a very typical house for
the people of Akrotiri.
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00:17:02,204 --> 00:17:06,779
They often have these big, wide
very kind of welcoming open doors,
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00:17:06,804 --> 00:17:08,218
always with A window next to them.
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00:17:08,243 --> 00:17:11,899
And inside you can just see this
kind of life interrupted.
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00:17:11,924 --> 00:17:15,449
There is a little stone bench where
they sat and passed
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00:17:15,474 --> 00:17:19,009
the time of day, a storage jug
for the food or wine.
232
00:17:19,034 --> 00:17:21,208
And underneath here there's
actually a millstone
233
00:17:21,233 --> 00:17:24,059
so we know that the people who
lived here were somehow
234
00:17:24,084 --> 00:17:28,859
involved in helping to bake
bread for their community.
235
00:17:28,884 --> 00:17:32,369
It's so quiet here now but of
course, it would
236
00:17:32,394 --> 00:17:35,369
have actually been buzzing
and humming with life.
237
00:17:35,394 --> 00:17:39,179
So it's a privilege to be here,
but it is also quite heartbreaking.
238
00:17:45,113 --> 00:17:50,899
There are whole streets here with
buildings two or three storeys high.
239
00:17:52,394 --> 00:17:55,569
Inside there, there would've been
brightly painted frescoes that
240
00:17:55,594 --> 00:17:59,979
would have been enjoyed inside the
house but also visible from outside.
241
00:18:02,034 --> 00:18:05,899
They tell us about life in Akrotiri
and that, just like Odysseus,
242
00:18:05,924 --> 00:18:09,449
the inhabitants faced adventures on
the high seas,
243
00:18:09,474 --> 00:18:14,369
even shipwrecks and were
sophisticated master mariners.
244
00:18:19,363 --> 00:18:21,649
This is where Akrotiri's
treasures are kept.
245
00:18:30,754 --> 00:18:35,369
Stunning paintings decorated
many of Akrotiri's homes.
246
00:18:40,644 --> 00:18:42,279
Aren't they beautiful?
247
00:18:42,304 --> 00:18:45,999
The first and that strikes you is
just how incredibly well done
248
00:18:46,024 --> 00:18:49,029
these are. If you think
of the ancient Egyptian art of this
249
00:18:49,054 --> 00:18:53,839
time, which is absolutely wonderful,
it is quite stiff and formal.
250
00:18:53,864 --> 00:18:56,719
Whereas these paintings just flow
across the walls.
251
00:19:02,664 --> 00:19:06,839
Half used paint pots were actually
discovered in the ruins
252
00:19:06,864 --> 00:19:09,438
and there are images of boxing boys,
253
00:19:09,463 --> 00:19:11,799
and the beauty of the natural world.
254
00:19:17,463 --> 00:19:21,639
One of the reasons I love this site
is because there are these
255
00:19:21,664 --> 00:19:23,509
amazing women everywhere.
256
00:19:23,534 --> 00:19:26,199
This one that you're looking at here
actually comes from somewhere
257
00:19:26,224 --> 00:19:27,558
called The House of the Ladies.
258
00:19:27,583 --> 00:19:30,589
Named for the women in these
frescoes.
259
00:19:30,614 --> 00:19:31,839
Isn't she gorgeous?
260
00:19:31,864 --> 00:19:33,119
We know she is a mature woman
261
00:19:33,144 --> 00:19:36,999
because her hair is allowed to grow
kind of snake down her back.
262
00:19:37,024 --> 00:19:39,759
Got this lovely hoop earring
and her bodice has been
263
00:19:39,784 --> 00:19:42,839
dyed in saffron which grew on the
island and was considered to be
264
00:19:42,864 --> 00:19:46,079
a kind of a magical flower because
they used it in cooking
265
00:19:46,104 --> 00:19:49,079
and as a dye and has
medicinal properties, too.
266
00:19:51,144 --> 00:19:55,358
And then over here you've got this
other gorgeous woman underneath
267
00:19:55,383 --> 00:19:58,669
the stars. You can't fail to notice
that she is bare breasted
268
00:19:58,694 --> 00:20:00,199
and a lot of the women are.
269
00:20:00,224 --> 00:20:02,869
So they have a lot of these
dresses cut away.
270
00:20:02,894 --> 00:20:05,759
And we think this is probably to
show her status or to
271
00:20:05,784 --> 00:20:09,759
celebrate some kind of religious
ceremony or festival.
272
00:20:09,784 --> 00:20:14,029
But whatever the reason,
she is just gorgeous.
273
00:20:21,024 --> 00:20:25,678
The volcano which buried Akrotiri
wasn't just a catastrophe for the
274
00:20:25,703 --> 00:20:28,199
incredible people who lived here,
275
00:20:28,224 --> 00:20:32,999
it may also explain one of the most
enduring legends ever told.
276
00:20:34,664 --> 00:20:39,069
The story of Atlantis is one
of THE greatest myths of all time.
277
00:20:39,094 --> 00:20:42,759
It tells of this magnificent
glittering civilisation
278
00:20:42,784 --> 00:20:47,399
surrounded by circular belts of land
and sea that basically became
279
00:20:47,424 --> 00:20:50,639
too proud of itself and was punished
by being swallowed up
280
00:20:50,664 --> 00:20:54,428
over a day and a night by the sea.
281
00:20:54,453 --> 00:20:56,358
But, surely, that has to have its
282
00:20:56,383 --> 00:20:59,589
foundation in what happened
here on Santorini.
283
00:20:59,614 --> 00:21:02,949
Where you have a beautiful,
sophisticated culture that's
284
00:21:02,974 --> 00:21:07,709
the envy of all around it, but that
suffers a terrible cataclysmic
285
00:21:07,734 --> 00:21:10,839
disaster and ends up being buried
286
00:21:10,864 --> 00:21:15,789
under metres of pumice, and ash
and waves.
287
00:21:34,664 --> 00:21:39,279
I do love the myth of Atlantis and
this place because it feels like
288
00:21:39,304 --> 00:21:42,399
somewhere where fact and fantasy
collide.
289
00:21:42,424 --> 00:21:45,149
And I also love the moral of the
tale, that we
290
00:21:45,174 --> 00:21:47,348
can take things for granted,
291
00:21:47,373 --> 00:21:53,149
we can be complacent and that pride
sometimes can come before a fall.
292
00:21:57,144 --> 00:22:01,509
Next stop on my odyssey,
an island of temptation.
293
00:22:01,534 --> 00:22:04,039
You're wearing lovely...bloomers.
Yeah.
294
00:22:11,104 --> 00:22:16,509
My Greek island odyssey is inspired
by the voyage of the hero, Odysseus.
295
00:22:16,534 --> 00:22:20,029
Like him, I am being lured
from island to island.
296
00:22:20,054 --> 00:22:21,718
And the next stop on my journey is
297
00:22:21,743 --> 00:22:24,949
famous for some of the more
tempting things in life.
298
00:22:24,974 --> 00:22:28,559
Naxos is an island of pleasures
and treasures, with
299
00:22:28,584 --> 00:22:32,999
a reputation for producing some of
the most enticing wine in the Med.
300
00:22:33,024 --> 00:22:36,119
Mind you, I should be wary of too
much temptation,
301
00:22:36,144 --> 00:22:41,788
just as Odysseus discovered in the
Odyssey with the myth of the sirens.
302
00:22:41,813 --> 00:22:45,559
Now, the sirens were these strange
birdlike creatures.
303
00:22:45,584 --> 00:22:48,279
Women with wings and claws.
304
00:22:48,304 --> 00:22:52,838
Had a beautifully,
irresistibly sweet song
305
00:22:52,863 --> 00:22:57,509
and they would lure men to death
on the rocks by singing out to them.
306
00:22:57,534 --> 00:23:00,029
Now, Odysseus, being a bit of an
adventure, wants to hear
307
00:23:00,054 --> 00:23:04,509
the siren song, so he gets his
sailors to strap him to a mast
308
00:23:04,534 --> 00:23:08,759
and plugs their ears with beeswax so
they can't hear.
309
00:23:08,784 --> 00:23:12,389
And begs to be released so he
can follow the siren call,
310
00:23:12,414 --> 00:23:15,149
but the sailors refused to
untie the ropes.
311
00:23:15,174 --> 00:23:18,788
And it's a fantastic story actually
about exposing ourselves
312
00:23:18,813 --> 00:23:23,869
to the dangers of temptations, but
also always knowing when to resist.
313
00:23:23,894 --> 00:23:25,869
And I have to say, I am now being
314
00:23:25,894 --> 00:23:29,639
lured to this island,
which is Naxos.
315
00:23:29,664 --> 00:23:33,869
I am following its siren call
because this is an island famous for
316
00:23:33,894 --> 00:23:36,639
its wine, and more famous for its
317
00:23:36,664 --> 00:23:41,588
ancient celebration of wine
and the god of wine, Dionysus.
318
00:23:43,384 --> 00:23:45,838
The ancient Greeks revered Dionysus
319
00:23:45,863 --> 00:23:49,029
as the god of wine, nature
and ecstasy.
320
00:23:51,974 --> 00:23:57,309
It was said he was raised on Naxos
and lurked in its rich forests.
321
00:23:57,334 --> 00:24:00,759
There are clues carved in the very
Earth itself as to how
322
00:24:00,784 --> 00:24:03,668
massive Dionysus was on Naxos,
323
00:24:03,693 --> 00:24:05,309
and I'm heading to one.
324
00:24:09,454 --> 00:24:11,279
What you've got here tells us
325
00:24:11,304 --> 00:24:13,759
that craftsmen from the ancient
world would actually have
326
00:24:13,784 --> 00:24:17,639
carved their sculptures in situ,
in a quarry like this,
327
00:24:17,664 --> 00:24:20,509
using the natural seams
in the rock.
328
00:24:20,534 --> 00:24:23,639
And it is pretty marvellous
because I'm walking on the very
329
00:24:23,664 --> 00:24:27,399
steps that those craftsmen would
have made in the ancient world.
330
00:24:27,424 --> 00:24:29,559
Although there was obviously
a problem with this one
331
00:24:29,584 --> 00:24:32,149
because it's been left unfinished,
332
00:24:32,174 --> 00:24:35,279
but there's a fantastic clue as to
who this was.
333
00:24:35,304 --> 00:24:38,759
He's got a beard and at this time
it was really unusual for
334
00:24:38,784 --> 00:24:44,119
sculptures to have a beards, apart
from the god of wine, Dionysus.
335
00:24:44,144 --> 00:24:49,229
So what you've almost certainly got
here is the great god Dionysus
336
00:24:49,254 --> 00:24:51,999
lying in stone form.
337
00:24:59,304 --> 00:25:01,838
And, boy, would he have made
an impression.
338
00:25:04,344 --> 00:25:07,069
There's one thing to remember about
the sculpture that
339
00:25:07,094 --> 00:25:10,038
if it had been finished,
it wouldn't have been left this
340
00:25:10,063 --> 00:25:13,399
beautiful crystalline, refined
marble white.
341
00:25:13,424 --> 00:25:16,759
It would have been painted in what
are, frankly, pretty garish colours
342
00:25:16,784 --> 00:25:20,989
because the Greeks covered their
sculptures and statues
343
00:25:21,014 --> 00:25:24,918
in bronze and gold and these...these
frankly rather lurid hues.
344
00:25:24,943 --> 00:25:27,869
So if you look at this, for
instance, one of the most famous
345
00:25:27,894 --> 00:25:29,679
buildings of all probably,
346
00:25:29,704 --> 00:25:33,279
the Parthenon in Athens on top
of the Acropolis. I mean, just look
347
00:25:33,304 --> 00:25:38,279
at this, the caryatids are bright
blue, and a horrible pink and green.
348
00:25:38,304 --> 00:25:41,038
So the palace of the ancient world
wouldn't have been this
349
00:25:41,063 --> 00:25:44,869
sort of classical beauty, but a bit
more like a fairground.
350
00:25:48,504 --> 00:25:51,989
The tradition of marble sculpture
dates back even further,
351
00:25:52,014 --> 00:25:55,449
when Naxos and other Cycladic
islands pioneered
352
00:25:55,474 --> 00:25:58,958
some of the most influential art
in the world.
353
00:26:00,704 --> 00:26:02,319
Only around 1,500 of these
354
00:26:02,344 --> 00:26:05,229
incredible things have been
discovered.
355
00:26:05,254 --> 00:26:10,069
And most of them are women,
or at least, the female form.
356
00:26:10,094 --> 00:26:13,679
But it is just so tantalising
357
00:26:13,704 --> 00:26:16,958
because we don't actually know
what they were used for.
358
00:26:16,983 --> 00:26:20,752
We don't know whether they were
fertility symbols or gods or
359
00:26:20,777 --> 00:26:23,926
goddesses or individual people.
360
00:26:23,951 --> 00:26:25,886
But what you have to remember
361
00:26:25,911 --> 00:26:31,317
is that these are at least 4,500
years old
362
00:26:31,342 --> 00:26:36,287
so, oh, my goodness,
if they could speak,
363
00:26:36,312 --> 00:26:40,287
what incredible secrets
they'd be able to share.
364
00:26:40,312 --> 00:26:43,037
And the one thing that these
figurines do tell us,
365
00:26:43,062 --> 00:26:48,006
is that those early islanders
must have felt deeply
366
00:26:48,031 --> 00:26:51,317
connected to the earth around them.
367
00:26:51,342 --> 00:26:53,527
And I should just tell you
one other thing.
368
00:26:53,552 --> 00:26:56,876
You can see that they've got
beautiful smooth and curved
369
00:26:56,901 --> 00:26:59,087
and there's a kind of sheen on
the marble.
370
00:26:59,112 --> 00:27:02,087
Well, they achieved that
through using emery,
371
00:27:02,112 --> 00:27:05,926
exactly like the emery boards
that we use for our nails today.
372
00:27:05,951 --> 00:27:10,806
So it's something that connects us
to them across the millennia.
373
00:27:17,062 --> 00:27:19,267
Of all the Greek gods, Dionysus
374
00:27:19,292 --> 00:27:21,886
is one of the few still celebrated
today.
375
00:27:21,911 --> 00:27:23,936
The fact that he's the god of wine
376
00:27:23,961 --> 00:27:27,607
and partying is probably
a big clue as to why.
377
00:27:27,632 --> 00:27:30,886
My trip to Naxos coincides with
the annual celebrations
378
00:27:30,911 --> 00:27:33,967
and I've have been invited to the
village of Eggares.
379
00:27:33,992 --> 00:27:37,407
These parties have been happening at
this time a year sometimes on
380
00:27:37,432 --> 00:27:41,737
exactly this day for at least
2,500 years.
381
00:27:41,762 --> 00:27:43,247
And the point of them was to
382
00:27:43,272 --> 00:27:46,016
celebrate the opening of new wine
after winter.
383
00:27:46,041 --> 00:27:49,737
And it's often where young kids
would be given their first drink.
384
00:27:49,762 --> 00:27:52,047
I mean, there's a whole lot to
them. They kind of really mean
385
00:27:52,072 --> 00:27:56,607
lots of things, but it's also where
people basically get hammered.
386
00:27:56,632 --> 00:28:01,097
BOUZOUKI PLAYS
387
00:28:06,711 --> 00:28:11,047
My gosh, it's so... It's hot in
there, isn't it? Sure. Really hot.
388
00:28:11,072 --> 00:28:13,397
So, first of all, you have to throw
that away
389
00:28:13,422 --> 00:28:16,517
and you will drink the wine
that I drink.
390
00:28:16,542 --> 00:28:19,217
The guys that I dressed like me.
391
00:28:19,242 --> 00:28:22,377
Can I just say, that looks,
it looks quite home-made.
392
00:28:22,402 --> 00:28:25,167
Am I right to say that this is
home-made wine that we're having?
393
00:28:25,192 --> 00:28:28,737
Everything that you will drink over
here it is home-made. Great.
394
00:28:28,762 --> 00:28:31,377
But it has the grapes of here
and they do it. OK.
395
00:28:31,402 --> 00:28:33,936
Are you having some as well? Cheers.
Cheers. Yamas.
396
00:28:33,961 --> 00:28:36,167
Welcome to our village. Yamas.
Yamas. Efharisto.
397
00:28:36,192 --> 00:28:38,607
Enjoy the whole event. I will. OK.
398
00:28:41,242 --> 00:28:44,886
Ooh, that's actually what much nicer
than the one I was drinking.
399
00:28:44,911 --> 00:28:47,097
Of course. That is really nice.
400
00:28:47,122 --> 00:28:51,297
So, you've just got to tell me about
the lovely skirt you're wearing.
401
00:28:51,322 --> 00:28:53,737
It was usually a sheet from the bed.
402
00:28:53,762 --> 00:28:58,297
This is so forward of me because
I don't know you, but just now
403
00:28:58,322 --> 00:29:03,047
the wind blew up your skirt and
you're wearing lovely...bloomers.
404
00:29:03,072 --> 00:29:06,407
Yeah. So these were from the
grandma's.
405
00:29:06,432 --> 00:29:09,247
Grandmother's bloomers?
Yes, exactly.
406
00:29:09,272 --> 00:29:10,777
SHE LAUGHS
Lovely.
407
00:29:10,802 --> 00:29:13,806
We used to wear them because
they didn't have anything else. N0.
408
00:29:13,831 --> 00:29:16,497
So we used to borrow them from my
grandma's.
409
00:29:16,522 --> 00:29:19,297
SHE CHUCKLES
So, yeah. We got the whole costume.
410
00:29:19,322 --> 00:29:22,686
Cheers. Yamas. Here's to wine
and parties.
411
00:29:22,711 --> 00:29:25,497
And bloomers.
THEY LAUGH
412
00:29:28,711 --> 00:29:32,327
Dionysiac parties happened
across Greece.
413
00:29:32,352 --> 00:29:34,857
One of my regulars is
the carnival at Skyros.
414
00:29:38,012 --> 00:29:41,886
Here villagers dress up in goat
masks and goat bells.
415
00:29:48,161 --> 00:29:51,087
There's plenty of cross dressing,
416
00:29:51,112 --> 00:29:54,657
something that actually features in
the tales of Odysseus.
417
00:30:02,992 --> 00:30:06,156
There's a fascinating story
that links the tradition
418
00:30:06,181 --> 00:30:09,347
of cross dressing with the hero,
Achilles.
419
00:30:09,372 --> 00:30:13,747
Now, Achilles was a comrade of
Odysseus and he was renowned
420
00:30:13,772 --> 00:30:15,956
to be the ultimate warrior.
421
00:30:15,981 --> 00:30:19,717
But, in fact, in the lead-up to the
Trojan War Achilles tried to avoid
422
00:30:19,742 --> 00:30:25,467
fighting by hiding himself dressed
as a woman on the island of Skyros.
423
00:30:25,492 --> 00:30:27,826
Now, Odysseus being super clever,
424
00:30:27,851 --> 00:30:31,187
conceived a cunning plan to
wheedle him out.
425
00:30:31,212 --> 00:30:35,437
He took a beautiful sword to the
island knowing that Achilles
426
00:30:35,462 --> 00:30:37,627
would not be able to resist.
427
00:30:37,652 --> 00:30:41,517
And, indeed, as he presented the
gift, Achilles leapt up
428
00:30:41,542 --> 00:30:45,107
and grabbed the weapon,
blowing his own cover,
429
00:30:45,132 --> 00:30:47,987
proving that he was a man.
430
00:30:52,542 --> 00:30:55,906
It's time to leave Naxos
and continue my odyssey.
431
00:30:55,931 --> 00:30:59,237
I am about to discover
something very special.
432
00:31:00,342 --> 00:31:02,747
This little tiny thing, I think, is
433
00:31:02,772 --> 00:31:06,956
the key to understanding the myths
and legends of the ancient Greeks.
434
00:31:14,012 --> 00:31:18,237
My journey across the Aegean Sea
has brought me to one of the
435
00:31:18,262 --> 00:31:21,477
wealthiest islands in the ancient
world - Siphnos.
436
00:31:21,502 --> 00:31:25,146
And what I love about it is there's
hard history here
437
00:31:25,171 --> 00:31:27,837
to back up some of Odysseus'
stories.
438
00:31:32,262 --> 00:31:35,677
So, this island is really rich in
natural resources.
439
00:31:35,702 --> 00:31:38,516
It's got gold and silver and lead.
440
00:31:38,541 --> 00:31:41,186
And all of that was mined in the
ancient world and you can just begin
441
00:31:41,211 --> 00:31:44,117
to see these kind of little holes in
the rocks which is
442
00:31:44,142 --> 00:31:45,677
where the mines once were.
443
00:31:45,702 --> 00:31:48,957
Because of that, it got a reputation
as being an island that was
444
00:31:48,982 --> 00:31:54,477
filthy rich because Siphnos was
one of the very first places
445
00:31:54,502 --> 00:32:00,037
in the ancient world to mint
coins, so it's a pioneering island.
446
00:32:05,622 --> 00:32:09,266
Siphnos really was a treasure
island.
447
00:32:09,291 --> 00:32:11,987
It's old capital, Kastro, built like
a fortress,
448
00:32:12,012 --> 00:32:15,237
means "castle" in Greek.
449
00:32:15,262 --> 00:32:18,987
Local historian Christina is
showing me its secrets.
450
00:32:19,012 --> 00:32:23,316
Hello! Aww. Welcome to our island.
Ah, thank you!
451
00:32:23,341 --> 00:32:26,467
How many gates like this
lead into the city?
452
00:32:28,291 --> 00:32:29,597
Uh-huh.
453
00:32:37,492 --> 00:32:38,907
Wow.
454
00:32:45,492 --> 00:32:48,237
Yes. Well, I suppose it's got
a reputation for being such
455
00:32:48,262 --> 00:32:49,907
a wealthy place, this. Yes.
456
00:32:49,932 --> 00:32:52,757
That they know it's going to
be worth attacking.
457
00:33:07,291 --> 00:33:08,827
Hello, darling!
CHRISTI NA CHUCKLES
458
00:33:08,852 --> 00:33:10,157
BARKING
Hello.
459
00:33:10,182 --> 00:33:11,627
DOG BARKS
460
00:33:11,652 --> 00:33:15,597
Yes, a very good guard dog.
Yes, hello. Hello.
461
00:33:25,541 --> 00:33:27,237
Yes.
462
00:33:27,262 --> 00:33:29,037
How many families live here now,
then?
463
00:33:35,541 --> 00:33:39,797
Yeah, I bet they do, yeah.
Amazing, beautiful.
464
00:33:45,902 --> 00:33:48,037
Yes.
465
00:33:48,062 --> 00:33:50,157
It is an open-air museum, yeah.
466
00:34:01,182 --> 00:34:02,677
There's been a settlement here
467
00:34:02,702 --> 00:34:05,677
since at least the 18th-century BC.
468
00:34:05,702 --> 00:34:10,107
For thousands of years these city
walls have kept the inhabitants
469
00:34:10,132 --> 00:34:11,707
and their riches safe.
470
00:34:11,732 --> 00:34:14,027
Even up to the present day there are
471
00:34:14,052 --> 00:34:16,516
tiny treasures to be found here
in Kastro.
472
00:34:20,572 --> 00:34:25,077
Is it...? Can I have a look inside?
Yes, of course. Oh, thank you.
473
00:34:25,102 --> 00:34:26,347
Gosh, that's a treat.
474
00:34:27,772 --> 00:34:29,827
Look at this, look at this!
475
00:34:29,852 --> 00:34:34,717
So these are beautiful
gold coins from Byzantium.
476
00:34:34,742 --> 00:34:37,547
They were called the solidus
which are kind of very famous coins.
477
00:34:37,572 --> 00:34:40,386
Actually, soldiers were painting
them which is where we get
478
00:34:40,411 --> 00:34:41,516
the word "soldier" from.
479
00:34:41,541 --> 00:34:44,027
That is just lovely. And over here.
480
00:34:45,382 --> 00:34:51,386
So this is one of the lovely silver
coins minted in classical times
481
00:34:51,411 --> 00:34:54,627
so this is only 2,500 years old.
482
00:34:54,652 --> 00:34:56,957
How brilliant. And they're still
kept safe here.
483
00:34:56,982 --> 00:35:00,306
Isn't that fantastic? They've been
here for all those centuries
484
00:35:00,331 --> 00:35:03,107
and they are still safe right in
the middle of the town.
485
00:35:03,132 --> 00:35:06,436
Ah, it's great. Thank you. Thank you
so much. Efharisto. You're welcome.
486
00:35:06,461 --> 00:35:07,436
Thank you.
487
00:35:09,742 --> 00:35:15,186
The coves of the Aegean islands were
infamous pirate hideouts.
488
00:35:15,211 --> 00:35:17,237
Marauding mariners even dared
489
00:35:17,262 --> 00:35:20,747
capture the mighty Roman leader,
Julius Caesar.
490
00:35:22,982 --> 00:35:26,357
In fact, the word pirate actually
comes from the ancient Greek,
491
00:35:26,382 --> 00:35:30,947
peirates, which means someone who
attempts to make a robbery.
492
00:35:30,972 --> 00:35:33,987
Piracy also turns up in the Odyssey,
too.
493
00:35:34,012 --> 00:35:37,306
So we hear that when Odysseus lands
on particular islands
494
00:35:37,331 --> 00:35:40,667
in order to prove that he's not a
pirate, he will go with
495
00:35:40,692 --> 00:35:43,357
only a few people and unarmed.
496
00:35:43,382 --> 00:35:46,516
But there's this brilliant passage
where we actually find out
497
00:35:46,541 --> 00:35:49,157
that Odysseus himself is a pirate,
498
00:35:49,182 --> 00:35:53,107
because he lands on the island, he
sacks the city, he rapes the women,
499
00:35:53,132 --> 00:35:57,357
he plunders the treasure and then
divides it up between his men.
500
00:35:57,382 --> 00:36:01,306
So at that point he isn't a hero,
he's a villain.
501
00:36:01,331 --> 00:36:05,907
Scattered across Siphnos
are anti-pirate watchtowers.
502
00:36:05,932 --> 00:36:09,467
There are 77 in total right
the way across the island.
503
00:36:09,492 --> 00:36:13,467
This is one of them which is
2,400 years old.
504
00:36:13,492 --> 00:36:15,797
What they'd do is
they would signal to one another
505
00:36:15,822 --> 00:36:19,306
and they did that by using
a kind of early form of mirror
506
00:36:19,331 --> 00:36:22,797
of polished metal or smoke signals,
which helped to keep their
507
00:36:22,822 --> 00:36:27,386
gold and silver, and themselves,
safe.
508
00:36:36,211 --> 00:36:39,277
Towers like this once formed
a communication network
509
00:36:39,302 --> 00:36:42,907
across the Aegean, as far back as
the Bronze Age,
510
00:36:42,932 --> 00:36:46,587
and they relate directly to
Odysseus' story.
511
00:36:52,972 --> 00:36:55,157
So we are told that at the end of
the Trojan War
512
00:36:55,182 --> 00:36:59,077
when the Greeks won, beacons were
lit all the way from Troy
513
00:36:59,102 --> 00:37:01,747
through Greece to the
Greek mainland.
514
00:37:01,772 --> 00:37:04,587
And archaeologists have worked out
that would have been possible.
515
00:37:04,612 --> 00:37:06,907
That you could have had this
line of fire,
516
00:37:06,932 --> 00:37:09,797
from Turkey right the way
through Greece.
517
00:37:09,822 --> 00:37:15,547
So these beacons really heralded the
beginning of the original Odyssey.
518
00:37:18,382 --> 00:37:21,797
In fact, this whole island is
a treasure trove where
519
00:37:21,822 --> 00:37:27,547
clues in the legends of Odysseus are
backed up by hard historical fact.
520
00:37:27,572 --> 00:37:32,186
Especially at the beautiful Bronze
Age settlement of Agios Andreas.
521
00:37:32,211 --> 00:37:36,027
The kind of place we're told
Odysseus and other warrior
522
00:37:36,052 --> 00:37:37,827
king heroes ruled over.
523
00:37:37,852 --> 00:37:41,077
When you make it up into the clouds
here you find a whole
524
00:37:41,102 --> 00:37:45,667
fortified city that dates
back 3,500 years.
525
00:37:45,692 --> 00:37:47,947
It's Mycenaean.
526
00:37:47,972 --> 00:37:52,186
The Mycenaeans were an ancient
superpower who dominated the Aegean
527
00:37:52,211 --> 00:37:54,827
when the Egyptians were at
their height.
528
00:37:54,852 --> 00:37:57,277
Mycenaean weapons, clothes, customs
529
00:37:57,302 --> 00:37:59,717
all feature in the stories of
Odysseus.
530
00:37:59,742 --> 00:38:03,997
The Mycenaean, who start off in
mainland Greece, were well organised
531
00:38:04,022 --> 00:38:05,767
and very ambitious.
532
00:38:05,792 --> 00:38:07,656
And they started to take over
territories
533
00:38:07,681 --> 00:38:10,386
right across the Aegean
on islands like this.
534
00:38:10,411 --> 00:38:12,947
Filling their sites
with impressive technology.
535
00:38:21,331 --> 00:38:25,027
This is a system that was built to
collect rainwater and that was then
536
00:38:25,052 --> 00:38:29,306
delivered down to the town in this
complicated sophisticated system.
537
00:38:29,331 --> 00:38:31,667
It's brilliant, isn't it,
when you think about it?
538
00:38:31,692 --> 00:38:35,416
Because all of this is happening
well over 1,000 years before
539
00:38:35,441 --> 00:38:39,646
Romans start to do their thing
with aqueducts and water supplies.
540
00:38:39,671 --> 00:38:42,367
So in some ways what
you are looking at here is
541
00:38:42,392 --> 00:38:45,516
the beginning of civilisation
as we know it.
542
00:38:54,822 --> 00:38:59,157
This rich citadel would have enjoyed
massive communal feasts,
543
00:38:59,182 --> 00:39:02,237
like the ones we hear about in
the Odyssey.
544
00:39:02,262 --> 00:39:06,677
I love the finds here cos you get a
real sense of how the people here
545
00:39:06,702 --> 00:39:09,677
didn't just survive, but tried
to live a good life.
546
00:39:09,702 --> 00:39:13,727
So what you're looking at is
a giant earthenware storage jar.
547
00:39:13,752 --> 00:39:17,117
It's called a pithos and we know
that in here there would have been
548
00:39:17,142 --> 00:39:18,957
grain and figs, and quite often
549
00:39:18,982 --> 00:39:21,597
these things were buried in the
earth so, basically,
550
00:39:21,622 --> 00:39:25,207
they acted like a kind of
prehistoric fridge.
551
00:39:25,232 --> 00:39:29,007
And what's particular nice about
this one is they didn't just
552
00:39:29,032 --> 00:39:31,287
bang it out, but they decorated it.
553
00:39:31,312 --> 00:39:34,847
So all around the surface you've got
this design of a rope
554
00:39:34,872 --> 00:39:37,847
so that it looks like there
are ropes running around the edge.
555
00:39:44,062 --> 00:39:48,237
I'm really, really very lucky to be
allowed to hold these.
556
00:39:48,262 --> 00:39:50,237
These are finds from the site.
557
00:39:50,262 --> 00:39:53,077
This is a beautiful decoration for
a piece of clothing.
558
00:39:53,102 --> 00:39:57,336
And it's silver gilded which was
something the Siphnians did a lot
559
00:39:57,361 --> 00:40:00,597
because they had access to all this
amazing silver and gold.
560
00:40:00,622 --> 00:40:03,007
So that is one treat,
561
00:40:03,032 --> 00:40:07,287
this is possibly even more special.
562
00:40:07,312 --> 00:40:12,396
So this is close on 3,500 years old.
563
00:40:12,421 --> 00:40:16,847
And it's a stone head carved
into the shape of an opium poppy.
564
00:40:16,872 --> 00:40:19,316
Now, this tells us
that back in the Bronze Age
565
00:40:19,341 --> 00:40:23,037
they would have been using
opium drugs, opiates,
566
00:40:23,062 --> 00:40:25,757
basically to get high.
567
00:40:25,782 --> 00:40:30,407
And I wonder if this explains all
those amazing myths and legends.
568
00:40:30,432 --> 00:40:33,316
So if they drank opiates,
if they smoke them,
569
00:40:33,341 --> 00:40:36,237
if they drank liquid opiates
in the form of laudanum,
570
00:40:36,262 --> 00:40:39,396
then you can just imagine
they were tripping, basically.
571
00:40:39,421 --> 00:40:44,157
So they would have had these dreams
of gods and spirits and monsters.
572
00:40:44,182 --> 00:40:49,677
So in many ways this little tiny
thing, I think, is the key to
573
00:40:49,702 --> 00:40:53,586
understanding the myths and legends
of the ancient Greeks.
574
00:40:53,611 --> 00:40:57,877
Like one of the most famous,
the story of Perseus
575
00:40:57,902 --> 00:41:02,677
who, as a young boy, falls foul
of his grandfather and, along with
576
00:41:02,702 --> 00:41:06,877
his mum, ends up cast adrift in a
wooden box off these shores.
577
00:41:06,902 --> 00:41:08,877
They arrive on these waters and are
578
00:41:08,902 --> 00:41:11,646
then rescued by fishermen
and brought ashore.
579
00:41:11,671 --> 00:41:15,037
But it's an interesting start to
life and Perseus
580
00:41:15,062 --> 00:41:17,077
constantly has challenges.
581
00:41:17,102 --> 00:41:19,677
He has to find and kill a monster,
582
00:41:19,702 --> 00:41:23,017
Medusa - that goddess with snake
for hair.
583
00:41:23,042 --> 00:41:26,237
And then he had to rescue a naked
princess from a rock.
584
00:41:26,262 --> 00:41:28,047
The Ethiopian Andromeda,
585
00:41:28,072 --> 00:41:31,997
a clue that the Greeks had strong
relations with Africa and the East.
586
00:41:32,022 --> 00:41:34,436
And then he has to go and found one
587
00:41:34,461 --> 00:41:37,927
of the greatest empires of the
whole of Greece.
588
00:41:37,952 --> 00:41:40,357
The mighty Mycenaean empire.
589
00:41:40,382 --> 00:41:43,287
Medusa is the ultimate man-eater
590
00:41:43,312 --> 00:41:46,997
whose petrifying stare turns men
to stone.
591
00:41:47,022 --> 00:41:51,357
The only way that Perseus can kill
her is by facing down his fear.
592
00:41:52,952 --> 00:41:57,407
And the moral of that tale
is that the greatest enemy of human
593
00:41:57,432 --> 00:42:02,957
happiness is not fear,
but fear of fear itself.
594
00:42:07,711 --> 00:42:11,636
The myths are all about learning
from experiences.
595
00:42:11,661 --> 00:42:15,277
Our hero Odysseus meets epic
challenges,
596
00:42:15,302 --> 00:42:17,586
but he's changed by them.
597
00:42:17,611 --> 00:42:21,427
And now it's time for me to leave
Siphnos. There will certainly be
598
00:42:21,452 --> 00:42:24,507
more adventures to come on
my Greek odyssey.
599
00:42:28,361 --> 00:42:33,097
On this leg of the journey I've
really felt the raw power of nature.
600
00:42:33,122 --> 00:42:34,656
And that's something that the
601
00:42:34,681 --> 00:42:37,067
ancient Greeks and the Odyssey
talk about a lot.
602
00:42:37,092 --> 00:42:39,297
Whether that's us as humans
603
00:42:39,322 --> 00:42:42,786
exploiting the earth or being
at its mercy.
604
00:42:42,811 --> 00:42:47,017
Something that you are definitely
aware of out on the open sea.
605
00:42:53,642 --> 00:42:54,867
Next time...
606
00:42:54,892 --> 00:42:57,576
I meet charming modern day
inhabitants of Crete.
607
00:42:57,601 --> 00:43:00,536
BLEATING
Ooh!
608
00:43:00,561 --> 00:43:05,377
And come face-to-face with a savage
reality from the age of heroes,
609
00:43:05,402 --> 00:43:07,257
human sacrifice.
610
00:43:07,282 --> 00:43:09,427
Very macabre.
611
00:43:16,601 --> 00:43:19,576
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