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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:03,833 --> 00:00:08,560 The Orient even in difficult times, 2 00:00:08,560 --> 00:00:11,910 the yearning for the beauty 3 00:00:11,910 --> 00:00:13,300 and the mystery of the East is undiminished. 4 00:00:13,300 --> 00:00:16,263 But many places in Iran and Uzbekistan 5 00:00:20,243 --> 00:00:23,040 draw few visitors. 6 00:00:23,040 --> 00:00:24,940 Travelers are deterred by supposed dangers. 7 00:00:24,940 --> 00:00:27,913 (mournful Eastern music) 8 00:00:27,913 --> 00:00:31,330 But for that reason, a journey from Isfahan to Samarkand 9 00:00:35,360 --> 00:00:38,930 through hidden deserts and mountains 10 00:00:38,930 --> 00:00:41,060 remains one of the great dream routes 11 00:00:41,060 --> 00:00:43,040 for friends of the Orient. 12 00:00:43,040 --> 00:00:45,200 It is a legendary journey. 13 00:00:45,200 --> 00:00:46,953 (music rising) 14 00:00:48,265 --> 00:00:50,143 (marionettes chattering) 15 00:00:50,143 --> 00:00:53,560 (truck thundering) 16 00:00:55,212 --> 00:00:56,671 (haunting music sustaining) 17 00:00:56,671 --> 00:01:00,338 (truck rolling) 18 00:01:10,000 --> 00:01:12,667 The road to the most famous cities of the Orient 19 00:01:23,700 --> 00:01:26,520 from Isfahan to Mashhad 20 00:01:28,010 --> 00:01:29,580 and onto Bukhara and Samarkand 21 00:01:31,430 --> 00:01:34,040 is more than 2,200 kilometers long. 22 00:01:34,040 --> 00:01:37,003 Our journey begins in Isfahan, 23 00:01:39,220 --> 00:01:41,400 the home of many ruling dynasties. 24 00:01:41,400 --> 00:01:44,050 Safavids, Sassanids, Seljuqs, Mongols and Arabs 25 00:01:44,050 --> 00:01:48,200 have all left their traces in Iran 26 00:01:48,200 --> 00:01:50,690 where minarets and the domes of mosques 27 00:01:50,690 --> 00:01:53,020 and madrassas abound. 28 00:01:53,020 --> 00:01:54,912 (haunting music) 29 00:01:54,912 --> 00:01:57,662 The colors, ornamentation and calligraphy 30 00:02:00,100 --> 00:02:03,230 on the huge Imam Square, once known as the King's Square 31 00:02:03,230 --> 00:02:07,180 immerse the visitor in a strange but enchanting world. 32 00:02:07,180 --> 00:02:11,380 Isfahan is a magnet for pilgrims from all over the country. 33 00:02:11,380 --> 00:02:15,480 Foreigners too are drawn here 34 00:02:15,480 --> 00:02:16,830 to the Islamic Republic of Iran, 35 00:02:16,830 --> 00:02:19,610 some harbor fears, which a young graduate 36 00:02:19,610 --> 00:02:22,070 from the religious school, a Moola 37 00:02:22,070 --> 00:02:23,950 by the name of Muhammad impressively dispels. 38 00:02:23,950 --> 00:02:27,310 In Arabic language, he says (speaks in foreign language) 39 00:02:27,310 --> 00:02:32,310 it means travel in the earth and look at what 40 00:02:35,790 --> 00:02:40,010 happened in the history for someone 41 00:02:40,010 --> 00:02:42,800 who reject and deny truth. 42 00:02:42,800 --> 00:02:45,810 And I think it's a really great point 43 00:02:45,810 --> 00:02:47,580 when you travel and in everywhere 44 00:02:47,580 --> 00:02:49,990 in all over the world, 45 00:02:49,990 --> 00:02:51,370 just look at the history. 46 00:02:51,370 --> 00:02:53,340 What happened to them? 47 00:02:53,340 --> 00:02:54,173 What happened to the people in the past, 48 00:02:54,173 --> 00:02:56,040 some Kings, some ordinary people 49 00:02:56,040 --> 00:02:58,800 who followed the truth, 50 00:02:58,800 --> 00:03:00,530 who reject that? 51 00:03:00,530 --> 00:03:01,430 And it's a great verse about death. 52 00:03:01,430 --> 00:03:03,613 I can tell you, you have heard 53 00:03:05,980 --> 00:03:07,400 lots of things about Islam, 54 00:03:07,400 --> 00:03:08,720 lots of things about Iran. 55 00:03:08,720 --> 00:03:10,200 Iran is very dangerous. 56 00:03:10,200 --> 00:03:11,770 Lots of explosion, 57 00:03:11,770 --> 00:03:13,480 Muslim people are terrorists. 58 00:03:13,480 --> 00:03:14,960 They always carry some knife. 59 00:03:14,960 --> 00:03:16,590 And I can tell you, 60 00:03:16,590 --> 00:03:18,080 look at me, I'm an Iranian. (guffaws) 61 00:03:18,080 --> 00:03:22,204 And even I studied in seminary school and here is Iran. 62 00:03:22,204 --> 00:03:25,360 Here is in the middle of the Iran in Isfahan. 63 00:03:25,360 --> 00:03:29,420 And I will tell you something, 64 00:03:29,420 --> 00:03:32,430 you cannot reject that, 65 00:03:32,430 --> 00:03:34,300 Iran is the safest place in the Middle East. 66 00:03:34,300 --> 00:03:37,660 Yeah. 67 00:03:37,660 --> 00:03:38,493 And the only way to prove it 68 00:03:38,493 --> 00:03:42,000 is come Iran and look at how is Iran. 69 00:03:42,000 --> 00:03:46,122 (Uplifting Middle-Eastern music) 70 00:03:46,122 --> 00:03:48,450 The river that should 71 00:03:48,450 --> 00:03:49,380 normally flow through Isfahan 72 00:03:49,380 --> 00:03:51,080 and link its historic bridges is called Zayandeh Rood, 73 00:03:51,080 --> 00:03:54,800 the River of Life. 74 00:03:54,800 --> 00:03:56,560 But because of drought, the water is pumped off 75 00:03:56,560 --> 00:03:58,940 to other parts of the country, 76 00:03:58,940 --> 00:04:01,160 an indication of the growing 77 00:04:01,160 --> 00:04:02,570 ecological problems Iran is facing. 78 00:04:02,570 --> 00:04:04,853 But even without water Isfahan's bridges 79 00:04:05,830 --> 00:04:08,500 from the Safavid Era era are still among 80 00:04:08,500 --> 00:04:10,800 the great attractions of Persian architecture, 81 00:04:10,800 --> 00:04:13,740 reminders of the heyday of Oriental art and culture 82 00:04:13,740 --> 00:04:16,970 along the Silk Road. 83 00:04:16,970 --> 00:04:18,303 (church bells tolling) 84 00:04:21,622 --> 00:04:23,570 And in Isfahan church bells still ring out 85 00:04:23,570 --> 00:04:26,360 in the Armenian quarter, even today. 86 00:04:26,360 --> 00:04:28,543 In addition to a Jewish community, 87 00:04:29,420 --> 00:04:31,460 Isfahan offered craftsman and artists 88 00:04:31,460 --> 00:04:33,690 from Christian countries a home. 89 00:04:33,690 --> 00:04:36,080 Oriental tolerance. 90 00:04:36,080 --> 00:04:38,339 (people chattering) 91 00:04:38,339 --> 00:04:40,430 Located in the Bazaar is the studio of Mr. Okhovat, 92 00:04:40,430 --> 00:04:44,350 a master of the ancient Persian art of miniature painting. 93 00:04:44,350 --> 00:04:47,793 (uplifting string music) 94 00:04:49,357 --> 00:04:52,774 He draws his motifs from the love poetry 95 00:04:55,140 --> 00:04:57,680 written by Hafiz and Saadi. 96 00:04:57,680 --> 00:04:59,803 Mr. Okhovat never abandoned his art even in difficult times. 97 00:05:05,480 --> 00:05:10,180 Even when virtually everyone stopped traveling to Iran, 98 00:05:10,180 --> 00:05:13,280 he remained true to his art 99 00:05:13,280 --> 00:05:15,300 because he says it is deeply 100 00:05:15,300 --> 00:05:17,060 rooted in the soul of Persia. 101 00:05:17,060 --> 00:05:18,803 (speaking in foreign language) 102 00:05:20,275 --> 00:05:21,550 Iranians enjoy life and love poems 103 00:05:21,550 --> 00:05:24,360 about flowers and nightingales 104 00:05:24,360 --> 00:05:26,984 Their favorite poets are Hafiz and Saadi, 105 00:05:26,984 --> 00:05:30,800 who's verse is extremely sensitive and full of emotion. 106 00:05:30,800 --> 00:05:34,860 These sensitivities are the reason 107 00:05:34,860 --> 00:05:36,700 why people like these miniatures, enjoy poetry 108 00:05:36,700 --> 00:05:40,580 and sing the poems of Hafiz and Saadi. 109 00:05:40,580 --> 00:05:43,093 (speaking in foreign language) 110 00:05:45,285 --> 00:05:47,032 Just as this art was able to survive difficult times 111 00:05:47,032 --> 00:05:50,590 over a thousand years, it will continue 112 00:05:50,590 --> 00:05:53,530 to survive in the future because people need this art 113 00:05:53,530 --> 00:05:57,980 and the joy it gives them. 114 00:05:57,980 --> 00:06:00,390 (people buzzing) 115 00:06:03,925 --> 00:06:05,330 Nearby is another store which 116 00:06:05,330 --> 00:06:07,130 is linked to Iran's ancient image. 117 00:06:07,130 --> 00:06:10,390 Here, Mr. Hossim sells Persian carpets, 118 00:06:10,390 --> 00:06:14,140 along with Aladdin's magic lamp. 119 00:06:14,140 --> 00:06:16,430 Carpets are the classic symbols of the Orient. 120 00:06:16,430 --> 00:06:19,133 (speaking in foreign language) 121 00:06:20,559 --> 00:06:24,476 For Mr. Hasseem, carpets are far more than a commodity. 122 00:06:26,090 --> 00:06:29,970 They're his life. 123 00:06:29,970 --> 00:06:31,043 The most interesting thing 124 00:06:32,190 --> 00:06:33,590 about these sort of pieces is that 125 00:06:34,520 --> 00:06:37,140 these are nomadic pieces and they think and make. 126 00:06:37,140 --> 00:06:40,350 All the design comes from their imagination. 127 00:06:40,350 --> 00:06:42,850 If I show you all my carpet 128 00:06:42,850 --> 00:06:44,350 you can never find two exactly the same 129 00:06:44,350 --> 00:06:46,810 because they think and make. 130 00:06:46,810 --> 00:06:48,700 And then we have classical carpets 131 00:06:48,700 --> 00:06:50,550 like these style, this is a classical carpet. 132 00:06:50,550 --> 00:06:54,708 (carpet thuds) 133 00:06:54,708 --> 00:06:55,827 And to make something like this, 134 00:06:55,827 --> 00:06:57,000 there is pattern design, the look and they make. 135 00:06:57,000 --> 00:07:00,920 You don't see any inconsistencies. 136 00:07:00,920 --> 00:07:03,430 But if you go to these are full, 137 00:07:03,430 --> 00:07:06,060 and that's the beauty of the carpet, 138 00:07:06,060 --> 00:07:09,530 that they make it with love 139 00:07:09,530 --> 00:07:11,800 and they made it with heart. 140 00:07:11,800 --> 00:07:14,310 I'm very proud of telling this 141 00:07:14,310 --> 00:07:17,330 that I'm an Iranian carpet dealer 142 00:07:17,330 --> 00:07:19,410 because it's the third biggest business 143 00:07:19,410 --> 00:07:21,870 after petrol and gas. 144 00:07:21,870 --> 00:07:23,790 A carpet like this, it takes at least a year to make. 145 00:07:23,790 --> 00:07:27,370 Unfortunately it's getting less and less 146 00:07:27,370 --> 00:07:29,350 because people they prefer to work in factories 147 00:07:29,350 --> 00:07:31,730 than earn some money and not to spend a couple of months. 148 00:07:31,730 --> 00:07:36,230 (percussive Eastern music) 149 00:07:36,230 --> 00:07:38,020 Our journey through Iran begins. 150 00:07:38,020 --> 00:07:40,630 It takes us into the desert from Isfahan to Yazd. 151 00:07:40,630 --> 00:07:43,833 Day and night, heavy trucks thunder 152 00:07:46,300 --> 00:07:48,320 over the well-constructed roads, 153 00:07:48,320 --> 00:07:50,500 taking goods from the Arabian Sea 154 00:07:50,500 --> 00:07:52,440 to all corners of the country. 155 00:07:52,440 --> 00:07:54,213 (trucks thundering) 156 00:07:56,410 --> 00:07:58,749 (music sustaining) 157 00:07:58,749 --> 00:08:01,666 The hallmark of Yazd are its towers of silence 158 00:08:03,090 --> 00:08:06,500 which date back to the days of the Zoroastrian Fire Cult. 159 00:08:06,500 --> 00:08:10,660 In ancient Iran, the bodies of deceased 160 00:08:10,660 --> 00:08:13,110 followers of Zarathustra were laid out 161 00:08:13,110 --> 00:08:15,240 for wild birds to feed on. 162 00:08:15,240 --> 00:08:17,500 The remains were then swept into a pit 163 00:08:17,500 --> 00:08:19,660 at the center of each tower. 164 00:08:19,660 --> 00:08:21,373 (people chattering) 165 00:08:23,082 --> 00:08:25,700 Zoroastrian Fire Temples can still 166 00:08:25,700 --> 00:08:27,860 be seen all over the country. 167 00:08:27,860 --> 00:08:29,453 The one in Yazd is particularly beautiful. 168 00:08:30,440 --> 00:08:32,913 The teachings of Zarathustra were the widespread 169 00:08:33,910 --> 00:08:36,560 religions in Persia 800 years Before Christ 170 00:08:36,560 --> 00:08:39,950 and long before Arab invaders 171 00:08:39,950 --> 00:08:41,770 brought Islam into the country. 172 00:08:41,770 --> 00:08:44,160 Today, the flame of the ancient religion is tolerated 173 00:08:44,160 --> 00:08:47,520 more than Islamic minorities, dervishes or Sufis. 174 00:08:47,520 --> 00:08:51,483 (fire crackling) 175 00:08:51,483 --> 00:08:53,161 (people praying faintly) 176 00:08:53,161 --> 00:08:56,101 There are many traces of history in Yatz. 177 00:08:56,101 --> 00:08:59,230 In the past, desert cities everywhere 178 00:08:59,230 --> 00:09:01,440 were cooled and ventilated with wind towers. 179 00:09:01,440 --> 00:09:05,070 Ancient qanats provided an underground supply 180 00:09:05,070 --> 00:09:08,180 of water via pipes and channels. 181 00:09:08,180 --> 00:09:10,615 (Eastern string music) 182 00:09:10,615 --> 00:09:13,865 The town is a busy place. 183 00:09:18,100 --> 00:09:19,746 (children chatting) 184 00:09:19,746 --> 00:09:20,680 Schoolgirls visit mosques and Madrassas with their teachers. 185 00:09:20,680 --> 00:09:24,670 Islamic religious instruction, so to speak. 186 00:09:24,670 --> 00:09:27,930 (religious call and answering) 187 00:09:27,930 --> 00:09:29,680 Their fathers are busy elsewhere. 188 00:09:29,680 --> 00:09:31,744 (drums banging) 189 00:09:31,744 --> 00:09:33,280 In the mornings, men of all ages, wearing sports shirts 190 00:09:33,280 --> 00:09:36,560 and shorts gather to pray. 191 00:09:36,560 --> 00:09:38,637 (praying in foreign language) 192 00:09:38,637 --> 00:09:42,470 (drums beating) 193 00:09:48,056 --> 00:09:50,723 To the sound of drums, dozens of men 194 00:09:54,530 --> 00:09:56,840 start to perform gymnastic exercises 195 00:09:56,840 --> 00:09:59,580 in a ritual training program, known as Zohkane. 196 00:09:59,580 --> 00:10:03,053 Zokane, too, dates back to pre-Islamic times 197 00:10:03,950 --> 00:10:07,250 and has remained an institution through to the present day. 198 00:10:07,250 --> 00:10:10,821 (drums beating) 199 00:10:10,821 --> 00:10:13,350 The ceremony is led by the drummer, Ali Reza Hajafi 200 00:10:13,350 --> 00:10:17,380 (man vocalizing) 201 00:10:17,380 --> 00:10:20,130 (speaking in foreign language) 202 00:10:23,030 --> 00:10:23,863 People in Persia love and respect 203 00:10:23,863 --> 00:10:25,680 this form of sport. 204 00:10:25,680 --> 00:10:27,560 They practice it because they see it 205 00:10:27,560 --> 00:10:29,540 as a timeless legacy from their forefathers. 206 00:10:29,540 --> 00:10:33,030 It's a kind of monument 207 00:10:33,030 --> 00:10:34,340 to the physical training of bygone days. 208 00:10:34,340 --> 00:10:37,420 This is a martial tradition that has 209 00:10:37,420 --> 00:10:39,540 been handed down from our ancestors. 210 00:10:39,540 --> 00:10:41,910 People enjoy this form of sport, 211 00:10:41,910 --> 00:10:44,070 but because it is difficult, 212 00:10:44,070 --> 00:10:45,800 not everyone is able to perform the strength exercises. 213 00:10:45,800 --> 00:10:48,903 The warming up program is 214 00:10:50,210 --> 00:10:51,480 followed by work with clubs. 215 00:10:51,480 --> 00:10:53,890 The size and weight of the clubs used 216 00:10:53,890 --> 00:10:55,850 depends on the age and physical 217 00:10:55,850 --> 00:10:57,500 condition of each participant. 218 00:10:57,500 --> 00:10:59,940 It is a training program for male associations that can 219 00:10:59,940 --> 00:11:02,740 be compared with the Turner movement in Europe. 220 00:11:02,740 --> 00:11:05,371 (man singing in foreign language) 221 00:11:05,371 --> 00:11:06,490 People kept fit without weapons 222 00:11:06,490 --> 00:11:08,860 especially in times when superior forces 223 00:11:08,860 --> 00:11:11,320 from Arabia occupied the country. 224 00:11:11,320 --> 00:11:13,097 (men singing in foreign language) 225 00:11:13,097 --> 00:11:14,100 The songs being sung today 226 00:11:14,100 --> 00:11:16,000 are in honor of Ali, the Prophet's son-in-law. 227 00:11:16,000 --> 00:11:19,576 (men singing in foreign language) 228 00:11:19,576 --> 00:11:24,304 (speaking in foreign language) 229 00:11:24,304 --> 00:11:25,330 The youth must accept the experience 230 00:11:25,330 --> 00:11:27,910 of those who are older 231 00:11:27,910 --> 00:11:29,150 and they must pass on the doctrine of consideration 232 00:11:29,150 --> 00:11:32,680 and care for others, to the younger generation. 233 00:11:32,680 --> 00:11:35,743 They must teach them how to look after the community. 234 00:11:35,743 --> 00:11:38,853 This is the only sport that can be performed 235 00:11:39,810 --> 00:11:42,210 in every age group, it combines 236 00:11:42,210 --> 00:11:45,080 both religion and character development. 237 00:11:45,080 --> 00:11:47,613 (speaking in foreign language) 238 00:11:48,583 --> 00:11:51,100 (traditional percussive music ringing) 239 00:11:51,100 --> 00:11:51,933 Exercising with heavy iron bows 240 00:11:51,933 --> 00:11:54,400 indicated the old para-military character of Zohkane. 241 00:11:54,400 --> 00:11:58,219 (man vocalizing) 242 00:11:58,219 --> 00:11:59,196 (bow rattling) 243 00:11:59,196 --> 00:12:01,779 (drums peaking) 244 00:12:06,779 --> 00:12:07,612 In the concluding whirling dance 245 00:12:07,612 --> 00:12:09,960 each participant shows his agility 246 00:12:09,960 --> 00:12:12,120 and power of expression. 247 00:12:12,120 --> 00:12:13,900 This can even lead to a trans-like state 248 00:12:13,900 --> 00:12:16,400 which in the past characterized the dervishes. 249 00:12:16,400 --> 00:12:19,493 (rhythmic clapping and drumming) 250 00:12:20,441 --> 00:12:23,839 (trucks buzzing) 251 00:12:23,839 --> 00:12:25,442 (relaxing percussive music) 252 00:12:25,442 --> 00:12:29,109 Our journey continues along busy motorways. 253 00:12:30,950 --> 00:12:34,110 Today, because of the long embargo 254 00:12:34,110 --> 00:12:36,260 imposed by the West many goods enter Iran 255 00:12:36,260 --> 00:12:38,990 by land and sea from China and India. 256 00:12:38,990 --> 00:12:41,783 Changes on an ancient trade route 257 00:12:42,700 --> 00:12:44,850 which takes us from Yazd to Kerman. 258 00:12:44,850 --> 00:12:47,926 (mournful traditional music continuing) 259 00:12:47,926 --> 00:12:52,593 The focal point of every historic town 260 00:12:55,520 --> 00:12:57,990 in Iran is the bazaar (people chattering) 261 00:12:57,990 --> 00:13:00,320 which also usually embraces tea houses, 262 00:13:00,320 --> 00:13:02,600 bath houses and mosques. 263 00:13:02,600 --> 00:13:05,070 Life here pulsates, and the range of goods on offer 264 00:13:05,070 --> 00:13:08,320 enables conclusions to be drawn 265 00:13:08,320 --> 00:13:10,230 as to the situation in the country. 266 00:13:10,230 --> 00:13:12,223 On markets in Iran cheap goods from China dominate 267 00:13:13,230 --> 00:13:16,380 and are displacing local handicrafts. 268 00:13:16,380 --> 00:13:18,820 But for many young families on a lower income, 269 00:13:18,820 --> 00:13:20,970 this is a blessing. 270 00:13:20,970 --> 00:13:21,986 (baby fussing) 271 00:13:21,986 --> 00:13:23,060 (people buzzing) 272 00:13:23,060 --> 00:13:25,810 Shortly before Nowruz, the Persian New Year, 273 00:13:26,670 --> 00:13:29,670 every family buys seven talismans known as Haft Seen. 274 00:13:29,670 --> 00:13:33,423 The sales assistant explains the symbolism. 275 00:13:34,365 --> 00:13:36,733 (saleslady speaking in foreign language) 276 00:13:38,607 --> 00:13:39,605 [Female translator] This is a special table decoration 277 00:13:39,605 --> 00:13:41,610 which we call Sofreh Haft Seen, 278 00:13:41,610 --> 00:13:44,180 the table with the seven symbols. 279 00:13:44,180 --> 00:13:46,240 Just as St. Nicholas heralds the advent of Christmas 280 00:13:46,240 --> 00:13:49,430 in other countries, we have Hajji Firuz and Nane Sarma. 281 00:13:49,430 --> 00:13:53,843 Nane Sarma comes to every town 282 00:13:53,843 --> 00:13:56,430 and ends the coldness of winter. 283 00:13:56,430 --> 00:13:59,150 The cultural symbols of our New Year are, 284 00:13:59,150 --> 00:14:02,354 Ser, garlic; Serkeh, vinegar; Seb, Apple; 285 00:14:02,354 --> 00:14:06,726 Samah, spicy fruit; Senjed, mulberry or dried olives; 286 00:14:06,726 --> 00:14:11,100 and Samanu, a sweet pudding made from wheat. 287 00:14:11,100 --> 00:14:14,223 Each of these symbols stands for something. 288 00:14:17,140 --> 00:14:19,625 Ser, garlic, for health and wellbeing. 289 00:14:19,625 --> 00:14:22,246 Serkeh, vinegar, for along life and patience. 290 00:14:22,246 --> 00:14:25,778 Seb, apple, for loving care and the beautiful image 291 00:14:25,778 --> 00:14:29,640 of planting an apple seed in the ground 292 00:14:29,640 --> 00:14:32,100 and one day harvesting apples from the tree. 293 00:14:32,100 --> 00:14:34,753 Senjed, the wild olive or mulberry 294 00:14:35,913 --> 00:14:38,240 stands for love and compassion. 295 00:14:38,240 --> 00:14:40,653 A decorative goldfish as a gift 296 00:14:42,720 --> 00:14:44,650 is also an absolute must. 297 00:14:44,650 --> 00:14:46,563 (birdsong) 298 00:14:50,658 --> 00:14:52,482 (suspenseful music) 299 00:14:52,482 --> 00:14:55,320 Iran and the entire Orient are covered 300 00:14:55,320 --> 00:14:57,810 by a network of tombs where Sufi Saints were laid to rest. 301 00:14:57,810 --> 00:15:01,623 Shah Nimatullah Vali was a Sufi Master 302 00:15:02,750 --> 00:15:06,230 and his shrine near Kerman is visited 303 00:15:06,230 --> 00:15:08,680 by large numbers of Pilgrims. 304 00:15:08,680 --> 00:15:10,623 Islamic law in Iran regards Sufism 305 00:15:11,890 --> 00:15:14,470 as a form of superstition, 306 00:15:14,470 --> 00:15:16,390 however the tombs of the saints are tolerated. 307 00:15:16,390 --> 00:15:19,870 After all, the Sufi's were mediators 308 00:15:19,870 --> 00:15:22,100 between popular beliefs and incoming Islam. 309 00:15:22,100 --> 00:15:25,900 Today, the dervishes of Shah Nimatullah Vali 310 00:15:25,900 --> 00:15:28,820 are scattered world-wide 311 00:15:28,820 --> 00:15:30,440 and the order is led from London. 312 00:15:30,440 --> 00:15:32,842 (cheerful Eastern music) 313 00:15:32,842 --> 00:15:34,030 Our journey is becoming more and more 314 00:15:34,030 --> 00:15:35,770 of an adventure with snow covered mountains, 315 00:15:35,770 --> 00:15:38,240 high passes and salt deserts by the roadside. 316 00:15:38,240 --> 00:15:41,583 There are over 50 arid regions in Iran 317 00:15:42,670 --> 00:15:45,640 and the Lut Desert is the biggest, 318 00:15:45,640 --> 00:15:47,810 hottest and most desolate collection of sand 319 00:15:47,810 --> 00:15:50,910 and salt in the country. 320 00:15:50,910 --> 00:15:52,233 It's also part of the world's natural heritage. 321 00:15:53,300 --> 00:15:56,567 (reflective music) 322 00:15:56,567 --> 00:15:59,484 In Summer temperatures of up to 70 degrees Celsius 323 00:16:09,660 --> 00:16:13,010 have been recorded here. 324 00:16:13,010 --> 00:16:15,000 The Lut Desert is famous for the mystical sand formations 325 00:16:15,000 --> 00:16:18,090 created solely by wind and erosion. 326 00:16:18,090 --> 00:16:21,000 The kaluds, as they're known. 327 00:16:21,000 --> 00:16:22,673 Strangers rarely venture into this hostile 328 00:16:24,030 --> 00:16:26,490 and sparsely populated region. 329 00:16:26,490 --> 00:16:28,643 But it's on the edge of the desert 330 00:16:37,650 --> 00:16:39,530 we encounter human life once again, 331 00:16:39,530 --> 00:16:42,470 a camel breeder looking after his animals. 332 00:16:42,470 --> 00:16:45,470 During the daytime, the camels roam freely. 333 00:16:45,470 --> 00:16:48,290 At night, they're tethered again 334 00:16:48,290 --> 00:16:50,190 in the vicinity of the village. 335 00:16:50,190 --> 00:16:52,550 The animals are fed roots, 336 00:16:52,550 --> 00:16:54,250 which have been dug out of the sand 337 00:16:54,250 --> 00:16:55,980 and seem to be very tasty. 338 00:16:55,980 --> 00:16:57,803 (wind pumping) 339 00:16:59,131 --> 00:17:01,110 The camel breeder examines his animals 340 00:17:01,110 --> 00:17:03,160 for any possible injuries or bite wounds. 341 00:17:03,160 --> 00:17:06,270 He also frees them from the biggest 342 00:17:06,270 --> 00:17:08,180 and most annoying plague, in the desert, ticks. 343 00:17:08,180 --> 00:17:12,230 Mohammed told us about his life here. 344 00:17:12,230 --> 00:17:14,333 (camel braying and flubbering) 345 00:17:15,563 --> 00:17:19,467 (speaking in foreign language) 346 00:17:19,467 --> 00:17:20,610 The region here is really arid 347 00:17:20,610 --> 00:17:22,760 because it hardly ever rains. 348 00:17:22,760 --> 00:17:24,920 So to feed the camels, I have to buy 349 00:17:24,920 --> 00:17:26,870 straw, barley and other things. 350 00:17:26,870 --> 00:17:29,115 Even so you can still live well here 351 00:17:29,115 --> 00:17:31,770 as a camel breeder, 352 00:17:31,770 --> 00:17:32,973 if only God would let more rain fall, 353 00:17:34,240 --> 00:17:36,993 but Spring will soon be here. 354 00:17:38,540 --> 00:17:40,710 Then this is a paradise for breeders and camels. 355 00:17:40,710 --> 00:17:43,713 The animals provide us with good milk 356 00:17:44,780 --> 00:17:47,367 and there's a big demand for their meat, 357 00:17:47,367 --> 00:17:49,680 which fetches high prices. 358 00:17:49,680 --> 00:17:52,020 What is more than camels are used to people. 359 00:17:52,020 --> 00:17:54,650 They are tame, so you can ride them 360 00:17:54,650 --> 00:17:56,830 and take part in races. 361 00:17:56,830 --> 00:17:58,819 (man continuing in foreign language) 362 00:17:58,819 --> 00:18:01,810 Most of the villages keep their own camels and sheep. 363 00:18:01,810 --> 00:18:05,123 There is also a bit of agriculture here, 364 00:18:06,050 --> 00:18:09,080 mainly cereals and dates. 365 00:18:09,080 --> 00:18:11,253 The best profit is made from selling dates, 366 00:18:13,010 --> 00:18:15,523 but the powerful wind and storms 367 00:18:16,900 --> 00:18:18,660 in the desert are a problem. 368 00:18:18,660 --> 00:18:20,357 Harvests are affected and sometimes even destroyed. 369 00:18:20,357 --> 00:18:23,943 Otherwise there are more than enough 370 00:18:24,940 --> 00:18:26,750 dates to be gathered here. 371 00:18:26,750 --> 00:18:28,273 (camel contributing) 372 00:18:30,638 --> 00:18:34,150 The name of the village is Deh-Sum. 373 00:18:34,150 --> 00:18:37,030 The central government has provided bricks 374 00:18:37,030 --> 00:18:39,040 for every household. 375 00:18:39,040 --> 00:18:40,990 It is March and people here find the pleasant 376 00:18:40,990 --> 00:18:43,600 28 degree temperature rather fresh. 377 00:18:43,600 --> 00:18:46,530 In summer it gets twice as hot. 378 00:18:46,530 --> 00:18:48,335 (engine purring) 379 00:18:48,335 --> 00:18:50,391 (speaking in foreign language) 380 00:18:50,391 --> 00:18:54,308 (water splashing) 381 00:18:56,512 --> 00:18:58,108 The New Year festival is approaching 382 00:18:58,108 --> 00:19:00,050 and in keeping with tradition, 383 00:19:00,050 --> 00:19:01,990 every household washes its carpets beforehand. 384 00:19:01,990 --> 00:19:04,753 (women chattering) 385 00:19:09,079 --> 00:19:10,020 Women in the desert wear bright colors, 386 00:19:10,020 --> 00:19:12,930 a pleasant contrast to the black garments 387 00:19:12,930 --> 00:19:15,010 seen in the towns. 388 00:19:15,010 --> 00:19:16,880 But before filming these women, 389 00:19:16,880 --> 00:19:18,760 you first need the permission of their husbands or fathers. 390 00:19:18,760 --> 00:19:21,710 (speaking in foreign language) 391 00:19:22,962 --> 00:19:26,879 In Deh Sum there is a modern workshop 392 00:19:37,270 --> 00:19:39,550 where carpets are woven. 393 00:19:39,550 --> 00:19:41,430 It's available to all the women. 394 00:19:41,430 --> 00:19:43,680 So anyone who has the time can work here. 395 00:19:43,680 --> 00:19:45,743 The money earned from selling the carpets is shared out. 396 00:19:46,650 --> 00:19:50,180 This is highly unusual. 397 00:19:50,180 --> 00:19:52,030 And the result of work by an Iranian foundation, 398 00:19:52,030 --> 00:19:54,670 which is striving to improve the quality of life 399 00:19:54,670 --> 00:19:57,350 of women in the countryside. 400 00:19:57,350 --> 00:19:58,930 (loom clicking) 401 00:19:58,930 --> 00:19:59,882 (women chattering) 402 00:19:59,882 --> 00:20:02,799 The women are open, but shy and reserved when addressed. 403 00:20:07,040 --> 00:20:11,270 They don't want to say the wrong thing 404 00:20:11,270 --> 00:20:12,820 to visitors from abroad. 405 00:20:12,820 --> 00:20:14,580 So it takes a while before we can start up a conversation. 406 00:20:14,580 --> 00:20:17,941 (chattering continues) 407 00:20:17,941 --> 00:20:21,393 (speaking in foreign language) 408 00:20:21,393 --> 00:20:22,240 [Female translator] The women in the village 409 00:20:22,240 --> 00:20:23,080 work just as hard as the men. 410 00:20:23,080 --> 00:20:25,060 There is no difference. 411 00:20:25,060 --> 00:20:26,280 The day begins with household duties. 412 00:20:26,280 --> 00:20:28,940 The women make dough and bake bread. 413 00:20:28,940 --> 00:20:30,960 Afterwards they go to the fields 414 00:20:30,960 --> 00:20:32,690 and cut grass for the sheep. 415 00:20:32,690 --> 00:20:34,930 Only then do they go on to the weaving shop 416 00:20:34,930 --> 00:20:37,450 and make mats and carpets. 417 00:20:37,450 --> 00:20:39,600 Women here show a lot of commitment. 418 00:20:39,600 --> 00:20:42,100 They really work hard. 419 00:20:42,100 --> 00:20:43,403 The villagers are hospitable and curious as well. 420 00:20:46,840 --> 00:20:50,090 They get the accommodation ready 421 00:20:50,090 --> 00:20:52,080 and go to great lengths in preparing the food. 422 00:20:52,080 --> 00:20:55,490 They like foreign visitors and take good care of them. 423 00:20:55,490 --> 00:20:58,190 I don't really know what else to say. 424 00:21:03,680 --> 00:21:05,687 (laughing) 425 00:21:05,687 --> 00:21:06,816 (dough slapping) 426 00:21:06,816 --> 00:21:07,649 Mrs. Mohammadi is self-confident 427 00:21:07,649 --> 00:21:09,450 and not a bit shy. 428 00:21:09,450 --> 00:21:11,130 She doesn't have a husband to tell her 429 00:21:11,130 --> 00:21:12,590 what she can and can't do 430 00:21:12,590 --> 00:21:14,290 and her brother doesn't interfere either. 431 00:21:14,290 --> 00:21:16,780 Persian women are self-assured, 432 00:21:16,780 --> 00:21:18,510 but in the countryside, fathers, brothers and husbands 433 00:21:18,510 --> 00:21:21,120 are far more dominant than in the towns and cities. 434 00:21:21,120 --> 00:21:24,450 From time immemorial bread has been baked 435 00:21:24,450 --> 00:21:27,000 with the simplest of means in an earth oven. 436 00:21:27,000 --> 00:21:29,940 Every village, every region has a slightly different style. 437 00:21:29,940 --> 00:21:33,480 Sometimes the loaf is thicker sometimes longer, 438 00:21:33,480 --> 00:21:36,680 but above all, it is the different 439 00:21:36,680 --> 00:21:38,490 decoration and texture that show where a loaf comes from. 440 00:21:38,490 --> 00:21:42,180 The daily demand for bread is huge. 441 00:21:42,180 --> 00:21:44,770 It's eaten at every meal, preferably oven fresh and crispy. 442 00:21:44,770 --> 00:21:48,493 (inspirational music) 443 00:21:49,650 --> 00:21:52,817 Iran is four times the size of Germany and full of history. 444 00:21:59,390 --> 00:22:03,900 Like here by the roadside, 445 00:22:03,900 --> 00:22:05,690 excavation sites can be seen everywhere. 446 00:22:05,690 --> 00:22:07,863 This for example is a 400 year old 447 00:22:11,060 --> 00:22:13,560 clay-built city from Safavid times. 448 00:22:13,560 --> 00:22:16,640 Even a layman can easily recognize 449 00:22:16,640 --> 00:22:18,760 traces of cultural achievements, wind towers, 450 00:22:18,760 --> 00:22:22,150 sewage and water supply systems, 451 00:22:22,150 --> 00:22:24,220 Pagodas, defensive walls and caravan (indistinct). 452 00:22:24,220 --> 00:22:27,097 (music sustains) 453 00:22:27,981 --> 00:22:30,731 Wherever you go and whatever you see, 454 00:22:35,413 --> 00:22:37,740 as a traveler in Iran from day to day, 455 00:22:37,740 --> 00:22:40,490 your respect grows for the history and culture 456 00:22:40,490 --> 00:22:43,050 of an ancient people. 457 00:22:43,050 --> 00:22:44,527 We're approaching an important city on the silk route. 458 00:22:50,520 --> 00:22:53,890 Mashad is a commercial center 459 00:22:53,890 --> 00:22:56,100 and the holiest place of Shiite Islam on Iranian soil. 460 00:22:56,100 --> 00:22:59,873 (city buzzing) 461 00:22:59,873 --> 00:23:02,456 Every year, more than 30 million pilgrims travel 462 00:23:05,240 --> 00:23:08,120 to Mashad to visit the mausoleum of Imam Reza. 463 00:23:08,120 --> 00:23:12,460 The tomb is also of enormous commercial importance. 464 00:23:12,460 --> 00:23:15,950 Pilgrims stay in hotels, go shopping, make donations, 465 00:23:15,950 --> 00:23:19,720 and very often bequeath their entire estate to the shrine. 466 00:23:19,720 --> 00:23:23,540 This is one reason for the vast wealth 467 00:23:23,540 --> 00:23:25,620 of Iran's second biggest city. 468 00:23:25,620 --> 00:23:28,490 The Holy precinct around the tomb 469 00:23:28,490 --> 00:23:30,230 of the eighth Imam Reza is well guarded. 470 00:23:30,230 --> 00:23:33,170 Every Pilgrim tries to linger here for as long as possible. 471 00:23:33,170 --> 00:23:36,710 Being allowed to experience without prejudice, 472 00:23:36,710 --> 00:23:38,990 members of another religion on their 473 00:23:38,990 --> 00:23:40,550 most important pilgrimage is a memorable experience. 474 00:23:40,550 --> 00:23:44,253 (people buzzing) 475 00:23:44,253 --> 00:23:47,003 Journeying on towards Bukhara and Samarkand, 476 00:23:48,540 --> 00:23:51,680 we reach Uzbekistan. 477 00:23:51,680 --> 00:23:54,003 (relaxing Eastern music) 478 00:23:54,003 --> 00:23:57,420 The mountains of Uzbekistan are just bidding 479 00:24:01,350 --> 00:24:03,970 farewell to winter and spring has yet to arrive. 480 00:24:03,970 --> 00:24:07,193 People are yearning for warmer days 481 00:24:08,100 --> 00:24:10,220 and are preparing to celebrate the new season 482 00:24:10,220 --> 00:24:12,560 with the Nowruz festival. 483 00:24:12,560 --> 00:24:14,053 In Iran this Spring festival lasts for 10 days. 484 00:24:14,890 --> 00:24:18,650 In Uzbekistan, everything is focused on just one day. 485 00:24:18,650 --> 00:24:22,083 (mincer turning) 486 00:24:24,381 --> 00:24:26,370 Using sprouting, winter-barley, oil, flour, and walnuts 487 00:24:26,370 --> 00:24:30,410 women in the villages spend many hours preparing 488 00:24:30,410 --> 00:24:32,773 a dish called Sumaluk. 489 00:24:32,773 --> 00:24:35,170 It is a tradition that is said to go back 490 00:24:35,170 --> 00:24:37,130 to the Mongol Khan Temur. 491 00:24:37,130 --> 00:24:39,265 (children chattering) 492 00:24:39,265 --> 00:24:40,098 The neighbors already gathering the early morning 493 00:24:40,098 --> 00:24:42,230 to stir the mass in a large vat and boil it. 494 00:24:42,230 --> 00:24:45,809 (drums beating festively) 495 00:24:45,809 --> 00:24:47,120 (people conversing) 496 00:24:47,120 --> 00:24:50,120 The mood is cheerful and getting increasingly exuberant. 497 00:24:55,120 --> 00:24:58,881 (traditional drum rattles) 498 00:24:58,881 --> 00:25:00,771 (child vocalizing) 499 00:25:00,771 --> 00:25:01,740 In the afternoon, after many hours, 500 00:25:01,740 --> 00:25:03,720 the Sumaluk has the right consistency 501 00:25:03,720 --> 00:25:06,510 and can be dished out as the official food 502 00:25:06,510 --> 00:25:08,810 at the New Year festival. 503 00:25:08,810 --> 00:25:10,385 (drum continues) 504 00:25:10,385 --> 00:25:11,218 By now, celebrations are taking place everywhere. 505 00:25:11,218 --> 00:25:14,480 Uzbekistan is not an Islamic Republic 506 00:25:14,480 --> 00:25:17,500 and women are allowed to dance and rejoice in public. 507 00:25:17,500 --> 00:25:20,599 (traditional music ringing out) 508 00:25:20,599 --> 00:25:24,840 The state-organized New Year celebration 509 00:25:24,840 --> 00:25:27,220 for the surrounding towns and villages takes place 510 00:25:27,220 --> 00:25:30,000 in the middle of the countryside. 511 00:25:30,000 --> 00:25:31,650 Uzbekistan's most expensive pop stars have been hired. 512 00:25:32,680 --> 00:25:36,490 They charge up to $6,000 to perform at weddings. 513 00:25:36,490 --> 00:25:40,148 (singing in foreign language) 514 00:25:40,148 --> 00:25:43,981 It's an official festival for the whole family 515 00:25:49,620 --> 00:25:52,500 positioned somewhere between folklore and pop, 516 00:25:52,500 --> 00:25:55,400 between the traditional and the modern. 517 00:25:55,400 --> 00:25:57,483 For more than two generations Uzbekistan 518 00:26:01,124 --> 00:26:03,630 was a Soviet Republic. 519 00:26:03,630 --> 00:26:05,750 It is not only at the New Year's festival, 520 00:26:05,750 --> 00:26:07,690 that the behavior patterns of that epoch is still visible. 521 00:26:07,690 --> 00:26:10,613 (man announcing) 522 00:26:13,845 --> 00:26:17,410 The men and boys in the mountains celebrate New Year in the 523 00:26:17,410 --> 00:26:20,120 traditional way with a wild 524 00:26:20,120 --> 00:26:22,530 equestrian game known as Kupkari. 525 00:26:22,530 --> 00:26:24,963 A tractor transports a dead sheep 526 00:26:25,870 --> 00:26:27,980 into the step and each rider tries 527 00:26:27,980 --> 00:26:30,140 to take possession of it. 528 00:26:30,140 --> 00:26:31,930 The rules are simple. 529 00:26:31,930 --> 00:26:33,770 It's illegal to hit someone in the face 530 00:26:33,770 --> 00:26:36,090 insult an opponent or drink vodka. 531 00:26:36,090 --> 00:26:39,180 However, only serious violations are punished. 532 00:26:39,180 --> 00:26:42,610 Injuries are par for the course. 533 00:26:42,610 --> 00:26:44,793 (announcer speaking in foreign language) 534 00:26:46,541 --> 00:26:48,080 the commentator whips up the contest and praises 535 00:26:48,080 --> 00:26:50,550 the riders bringing back the sheep. 536 00:26:50,550 --> 00:26:52,708 Besides prestige, money and other prizes beckon. 537 00:26:52,708 --> 00:26:56,073 The passion for this sport seems infinite 538 00:27:03,010 --> 00:27:05,740 and the contests go on for hours. 539 00:27:05,740 --> 00:27:08,326 (commentator enthusing) 540 00:27:08,326 --> 00:27:11,659 (children chattering) 541 00:27:14,201 --> 00:27:17,570 The Sumaluk now has the right consistency, 542 00:27:17,570 --> 00:27:20,580 the dish is honored 543 00:27:20,580 --> 00:27:21,880 and the anticipation of enjoying 544 00:27:21,880 --> 00:27:23,490 this special New Year's 545 00:27:23,490 --> 00:27:24,760 pudding can be felt everywhere. 546 00:27:24,760 --> 00:27:26,473 Something that has been cooking for so long, must be good. 547 00:27:27,330 --> 00:27:30,560 And the Mongol Khans saw Sumaluk as a source of energy 548 00:27:30,560 --> 00:27:33,930 and protection against illness, 549 00:27:33,930 --> 00:27:35,823 nothing wrong with having a quick taste. 550 00:27:37,100 --> 00:27:40,070 The New Year's dish is distributed to every household 551 00:27:40,070 --> 00:27:42,880 and every family member. 552 00:27:42,880 --> 00:27:45,130 The taste is strange, a bit like 553 00:27:45,130 --> 00:27:47,720 bitter sweet beer with nutty starch. 554 00:27:47,720 --> 00:27:50,660 But at all events for people here, 555 00:27:50,660 --> 00:27:52,320 it is a long-awaited delicacy. 556 00:27:52,320 --> 00:27:54,393 (child enthuses) 557 00:27:54,393 --> 00:27:55,806 (relaxing string music) 558 00:27:55,806 --> 00:27:58,400 In Uzbekistan we have been invited by a family 559 00:27:58,400 --> 00:28:00,780 that has been living in the Sufi-tradition for generations. 560 00:28:00,780 --> 00:28:03,870 And it's thus closer to Oriental law than normal Uzbeks. 561 00:28:03,870 --> 00:28:08,167 (music sustains) 562 00:28:08,167 --> 00:28:10,917 We're taking tea with the family 563 00:28:13,810 --> 00:28:15,530 of herbal Doctor Sufi Tabib. 564 00:28:15,530 --> 00:28:18,190 He has a young wife and young children, 565 00:28:18,190 --> 00:28:20,460 but also grown-up sons. 566 00:28:20,460 --> 00:28:22,880 We try to understand what he does and how he lives. 567 00:28:22,880 --> 00:28:25,943 In the tradition of educated Orientals 568 00:28:31,390 --> 00:28:33,930 he responds to our questions in French. 569 00:28:33,930 --> 00:28:36,283 (Dr. Tabib speaking in French) 570 00:28:39,774 --> 00:28:43,240 I see my mission in helping people, 571 00:28:43,240 --> 00:28:45,740 I care for many who are not well, 572 00:28:49,500 --> 00:28:52,380 up to 200 patients a day. 573 00:28:52,380 --> 00:28:54,563 We collect herbs for treatment purposes all year round. 574 00:28:57,690 --> 00:29:01,093 My children also help, at the same time, 575 00:29:01,970 --> 00:29:05,150 I live and spread the philosophy of the Sufis. 576 00:29:05,150 --> 00:29:07,633 My particular school of Sufism is Nosafar Dia, 577 00:29:10,950 --> 00:29:15,440 which also integrates modern elements of Sufi-doctrine. 578 00:29:15,440 --> 00:29:18,943 (relaxing string music) 579 00:29:20,933 --> 00:29:24,266 On our way to Bukhara, Sufi Tabib 580 00:29:34,620 --> 00:29:37,010 and his son Ulugbeg are showing us 581 00:29:37,010 --> 00:29:39,430 an ancient Sufi and Muslim site 582 00:29:39,430 --> 00:29:41,930 which was even visited during the Soviet-era. 583 00:29:41,930 --> 00:29:45,220 In those days, religion and spirituality 584 00:29:45,220 --> 00:29:47,890 were regarded as reactionary. 585 00:29:47,890 --> 00:29:50,400 Many traditions only survived in secret. 586 00:29:50,400 --> 00:29:52,863 This place holds a special significance 587 00:29:55,350 --> 00:29:57,480 for our hosts and there is a reason for it. 588 00:29:57,480 --> 00:30:00,113 (birdsong) 589 00:30:01,250 --> 00:30:02,230 (music continues) 590 00:30:02,230 --> 00:30:05,063 (Dr. Tabib speaking French) 591 00:30:06,118 --> 00:30:08,400 This place is called "Four Brothers," 592 00:30:08,400 --> 00:30:11,410 Why Four Brothers? 593 00:30:11,410 --> 00:30:12,803 Islam has its own explanation. 594 00:30:14,140 --> 00:30:16,323 But I know that the name Four Brothers 595 00:30:18,530 --> 00:30:20,940 refers to Sufism and three religions, 596 00:30:20,940 --> 00:30:25,360 Islam, Christianity, and Judaism. 597 00:30:25,360 --> 00:30:28,121 (Dr. Tabib continuing in French) 598 00:30:28,121 --> 00:30:30,570 Why do I enjoy coming to the Four Brothers so much? 599 00:30:30,570 --> 00:30:33,583 I first came here in 1984 during the Soviet era, 600 00:30:34,920 --> 00:30:38,640 the site looked like a ruin. 601 00:30:38,640 --> 00:30:41,250 There were no proper buildings, just a pile of rubble. 602 00:30:41,250 --> 00:30:44,910 Nevertheless, we kept coming back here 603 00:30:44,910 --> 00:30:47,490 because I felt the good energy 604 00:30:47,490 --> 00:30:49,700 of our ancestors and the Sufi's. 605 00:30:49,700 --> 00:30:52,067 And that is why I chose this place. 606 00:30:52,916 --> 00:30:55,073 (religious incanting) 607 00:30:56,833 --> 00:31:00,000 The two men allow us to watch them engage in the prayer 608 00:31:01,139 --> 00:31:04,180 ritual of the Sufi in a meditation retreat. 609 00:31:04,180 --> 00:31:07,233 It consists of rhythmically performed prayer mantras, 610 00:31:08,101 --> 00:31:12,170 kind of vocal respiration, 611 00:31:12,170 --> 00:31:13,710 but quickly leads to a trance-like state. 612 00:31:13,710 --> 00:31:16,123 Established Islam sees this 613 00:31:17,040 --> 00:31:18,560 as pure shamanism and superstition, 614 00:31:18,560 --> 00:31:21,640 but for Sufi's this form of prayer 615 00:31:21,640 --> 00:31:24,020 is the core of their religious practice. 616 00:31:24,020 --> 00:31:26,412 (incantations continuing) 617 00:31:26,412 --> 00:31:29,912 (Dr. Tabib speaking in French) 618 00:31:36,739 --> 00:31:39,540 In Sufism this meditation is known as Zikr. 619 00:31:39,540 --> 00:31:42,773 So, for breathing exercises, physical exercises, 620 00:31:44,350 --> 00:31:49,270 gymnastics, and Zikr. 621 00:31:49,270 --> 00:31:51,160 It's a complex system. 622 00:31:52,210 --> 00:31:54,660 Why do we practice Zikr? 623 00:31:54,660 --> 00:31:56,810 All Sufis practice Zikr. 624 00:31:56,810 --> 00:31:58,383 The most important reason is to acquire the energy of God. 625 00:31:59,960 --> 00:32:03,993 Secondly, we want to develop inwardly 626 00:32:04,970 --> 00:32:07,970 to progress towards personal perfection, 627 00:32:07,970 --> 00:32:11,000 to feel spirituality. 628 00:32:11,000 --> 00:32:13,080 And if the prerequisites exist, 629 00:32:13,080 --> 00:32:15,450 to aspire to divine knowledge. 630 00:32:15,450 --> 00:32:17,253 For Sufi, Tabib, martial arts 631 00:32:22,250 --> 00:32:24,610 are just as much a part of the exercise 632 00:32:24,610 --> 00:32:26,620 program as gymnastics, meditation, nutrition, 633 00:32:26,620 --> 00:32:29,930 cosmetics, calligraphy, and movement in nature. 634 00:32:29,930 --> 00:32:33,373 What he practices as a Sufi, 635 00:32:37,490 --> 00:32:39,190 Tabib also prescribes for his pupils 636 00:32:39,190 --> 00:32:41,830 and patients and interest is great. 637 00:32:41,830 --> 00:32:44,747 (birdsong sounding) 638 00:32:44,747 --> 00:32:45,580 In Central Asia, too many people feel out of balance 639 00:32:45,580 --> 00:32:48,550 and are searching for answers. 640 00:32:48,550 --> 00:32:50,470 Sufi Tabib told us why. 641 00:32:50,470 --> 00:32:52,483 (speaking French) 642 00:32:55,466 --> 00:32:58,299 In my view, people here too, 643 00:33:00,150 --> 00:33:02,560 have begun to live in the modern world. 644 00:33:02,560 --> 00:33:04,643 They sit in their cars, they eat a lot. 645 00:33:06,500 --> 00:33:10,573 They don't do any physical activity or breathing exercises. 646 00:33:11,940 --> 00:33:16,715 But the greatest problem I feel 647 00:33:16,715 --> 00:33:18,340 is that they are losing spirituality. 648 00:33:19,353 --> 00:33:21,400 The link with divine energy is tenuous. 649 00:33:21,400 --> 00:33:24,240 People can no longer absorb the breath of God. 650 00:33:24,240 --> 00:33:27,270 They cannot connect to it. 651 00:33:27,270 --> 00:33:28,733 Sufi Tabib and his sons run several practices 652 00:33:31,950 --> 00:33:35,070 in Tashk and Buhkara. 653 00:33:35,070 --> 00:33:37,560 These are located not in exclusive areas, 654 00:33:37,560 --> 00:33:39,950 but in prefabricated buildings where ordinary people live. 655 00:33:39,950 --> 00:33:43,713 Patients often come from neighboring countries 656 00:33:46,290 --> 00:33:49,270 in the style of the ancient physicians of the Orient 657 00:33:49,270 --> 00:33:52,220 Tabib establishes contact by the patient's pulse. 658 00:33:52,220 --> 00:33:55,950 He talks to his patients and shows care. 659 00:33:55,950 --> 00:33:58,293 As a rule he prescribes herbal medicine, 660 00:33:59,150 --> 00:34:02,200 recommends movement exercises and meditation, 661 00:34:02,200 --> 00:34:05,400 gives dietary tips and prescribes massages. 662 00:34:05,400 --> 00:34:08,303 He only does what he learned from his forefathers. 663 00:34:09,200 --> 00:34:11,580 He told us there is also something else that links him 664 00:34:11,580 --> 00:34:15,260 to the great physician Abu Ali Sina, 665 00:34:15,260 --> 00:34:17,780 also known as Abi Sina. 666 00:34:17,780 --> 00:34:19,563 (Dr. Tabib speaking french) 667 00:34:21,185 --> 00:34:24,910 We use the great Abi Sina's knowledge, 668 00:34:24,910 --> 00:34:27,470 of the medicinal plants he studied. 669 00:34:27,470 --> 00:34:29,874 and no other methods. 670 00:34:29,874 --> 00:34:31,653 In our treatments we rely on our ancestors 671 00:34:34,780 --> 00:34:38,030 who from 13th century on passed 672 00:34:39,080 --> 00:34:42,140 everything down from generation to generation. 673 00:34:42,140 --> 00:34:45,623 We apply their knowledge in our massages, 674 00:34:49,590 --> 00:34:53,300 in our brain treatments, in our use of medicinal plants, 675 00:34:53,300 --> 00:34:58,253 in diagnosis and in gymnastic and breathing exercises. 676 00:34:59,389 --> 00:35:04,389 To compliment that, thanks to our own studies, 677 00:35:07,790 --> 00:35:12,000 we add a few new applications, that's all. 678 00:35:12,000 --> 00:35:15,763 Located next door 679 00:35:18,450 --> 00:35:19,510 is the Sufi doctor's, pharmacy, 680 00:35:19,510 --> 00:35:21,570 where patients can obtain the remedies 681 00:35:21,570 --> 00:35:23,500 that have been prescribed. 682 00:35:23,500 --> 00:35:25,560 All the medication, tinctures, teas and oils 683 00:35:25,560 --> 00:35:28,430 are made from Uzbek, herbs and roots. 684 00:35:28,430 --> 00:35:31,240 They said to be effective against virtually everything. 685 00:35:31,240 --> 00:35:34,280 Prices are affordable. 686 00:35:34,280 --> 00:35:36,540 In Uzbekistan only the upper class 687 00:35:36,540 --> 00:35:38,520 can afford the expensive drugs manufactured 688 00:35:38,520 --> 00:35:40,770 by international pharmaceutical companies. 689 00:35:40,770 --> 00:35:42,870 Roots and herbs are collected all year round. 690 00:35:44,700 --> 00:35:47,320 In Winter certain plants are found in the deserts, 691 00:35:47,320 --> 00:35:50,410 in Summer Uzbekistan is full of herbs. 692 00:35:50,410 --> 00:35:53,300 And in autumn, herbs are harvested in the mountains. 693 00:35:53,300 --> 00:35:56,501 (men chatting) 694 00:35:56,501 --> 00:35:59,084 (spade digging) 695 00:36:00,740 --> 00:36:03,407 (wind gusting) 696 00:36:04,441 --> 00:36:07,587 (men chattering) 697 00:36:07,587 --> 00:36:10,337 (car whooshing) 698 00:36:11,703 --> 00:36:14,370 The herbs and roots are stored at central locations 699 00:36:15,246 --> 00:36:17,960 where they're also mixed and processed 700 00:36:17,960 --> 00:36:20,010 in line with ancient formulas and mixing ratios. 701 00:36:20,010 --> 00:36:23,053 (men chattering) 702 00:36:23,957 --> 00:36:26,707 Most of the several dozen people who work 703 00:36:29,240 --> 00:36:31,200 in the herb factory belong to the Sufi Tabib clan. 704 00:36:31,200 --> 00:36:34,960 The son, Ulugbeg is in charge here. 705 00:36:34,960 --> 00:36:37,903 (fluid swishes) 706 00:36:37,903 --> 00:36:40,570 We have trees of generation. 707 00:36:42,170 --> 00:36:46,070 Sufi Tabib is 14th. 708 00:36:46,070 --> 00:36:48,000 I am the 15th. 709 00:36:48,000 --> 00:36:49,980 So Sufi Tabib knows fourteens his fathers and grandfathers 710 00:36:49,980 --> 00:36:54,980 and grand grand grand fathers. 711 00:36:56,130 --> 00:36:57,913 Finally, the medications are bottled and labeled. 712 00:37:00,800 --> 00:37:04,240 Many products are also sent to regular customers 713 00:37:04,240 --> 00:37:06,800 as far afield as Russia. 714 00:37:06,800 --> 00:37:08,363 (Ulugbeg speaking in foreign language) 715 00:37:11,012 --> 00:37:15,491 (ladies chattering) 716 00:37:15,491 --> 00:37:18,491 The market for herbal products is booming 717 00:37:19,540 --> 00:37:22,420 and in Uzbekistan, everyone is happy to have an income. 718 00:37:22,420 --> 00:37:25,767 (packets crackling) 719 00:37:28,462 --> 00:37:31,462 (man chattering in foreign language) 720 00:37:32,911 --> 00:37:33,744 The staff all eat together 721 00:37:33,744 --> 00:37:34,890 according to the national custom, 722 00:37:34,890 --> 00:37:36,840 Sitting on the ground in nomad-style, 723 00:37:36,840 --> 00:37:39,510 the table is laid with far more food 724 00:37:39,510 --> 00:37:41,500 than they could ever eat. 725 00:37:41,500 --> 00:37:43,208 (diners conversing) 726 00:37:43,208 --> 00:37:46,208 Only the work uniforms are a slight reminder 727 00:37:49,720 --> 00:37:52,540 of former Soviet days. 728 00:37:52,540 --> 00:37:54,173 (chattering continues) 729 00:37:57,540 --> 00:38:00,790 (lively music) 730 00:38:02,097 --> 00:38:04,680 At one time, Bukhara was one 731 00:38:06,480 --> 00:38:08,310 of the great cities of the Orient, 732 00:38:08,310 --> 00:38:10,560 a trading center with splendid buildings. 733 00:38:10,560 --> 00:38:13,210 It was a place of religious tolerance. 734 00:38:13,210 --> 00:38:15,387 In the past Bukhara belonged to the great Persian Empire 735 00:38:15,387 --> 00:38:19,630 and the Emir of Bukhara held sway 736 00:38:19,630 --> 00:38:21,900 over large parts of Central Asia. 737 00:38:21,900 --> 00:38:24,318 (music continues) 738 00:38:24,318 --> 00:38:27,151 Sufi Tabib has brought us to 739 00:38:37,070 --> 00:38:38,620 the Jewish cemetery in Bukhara. 740 00:38:38,620 --> 00:38:41,190 He wants to remind us of the days of cultural diversity 741 00:38:41,190 --> 00:38:44,400 and religious tolerance, which he wishes 742 00:38:44,400 --> 00:38:46,900 for Uzbekistan in the future too. 743 00:38:46,900 --> 00:38:48,623 (footsteps falling) 744 00:38:49,878 --> 00:38:52,878 (Dr. Tabib speaking in French) 745 00:38:54,281 --> 00:38:55,550 Bukhara has always been a center of religion, 746 00:38:55,550 --> 00:38:58,500 but not just of Islam, Jews, and Christians were also here. 747 00:38:58,500 --> 00:39:03,430 The doctrine of Sufism was also highly developed here. 748 00:39:03,430 --> 00:39:07,512 Why did Bukhara become a center of religion? 749 00:39:07,512 --> 00:39:10,513 It's because many Sufies came here 750 00:39:11,420 --> 00:39:13,517 and the mental attitude was very sophisticated. 751 00:39:13,517 --> 00:39:17,580 Sufism accepts all religions because it has 752 00:39:17,580 --> 00:39:20,680 never turned against any religion. 753 00:39:20,680 --> 00:39:23,320 It works with religions. 754 00:39:23,320 --> 00:39:25,100 It tolerates religions because Sufism 755 00:39:25,100 --> 00:39:27,810 is found in all religions. 756 00:39:27,810 --> 00:39:29,660 We are here at the Jewish cemetery and you can see how well 757 00:39:29,660 --> 00:39:32,720 it has been preserved here in Uzbekistan. 758 00:39:32,720 --> 00:39:34,770 Bukhara still has a lively Jewish community, 759 00:39:38,400 --> 00:39:41,220 two synagogues, schools and kindergartens. 760 00:39:41,220 --> 00:39:44,550 However their number of community members 761 00:39:44,550 --> 00:39:46,840 is steadily declining, for Jews in Uzbekistan 762 00:39:46,840 --> 00:39:50,530 it is easy to immigrate to America or Israel. 763 00:39:50,530 --> 00:39:53,353 (relaxing Eastern music) 764 00:40:00,502 --> 00:40:01,750 The final stage of our journey to the Orient 765 00:40:01,750 --> 00:40:04,430 takes us to Samarkand, a place of yearning 766 00:40:04,430 --> 00:40:07,810 and a historic center of scholarship in 767 00:40:07,810 --> 00:40:09,940 science and architecture. 768 00:40:09,940 --> 00:40:11,503 This is an important place, 769 00:40:12,500 --> 00:40:14,450 especially in times when some people associate the terms, 770 00:40:14,450 --> 00:40:17,380 Orient and Islam with danger. 771 00:40:17,380 --> 00:40:20,239 (music continues) 772 00:40:20,239 --> 00:40:23,072 In Samarkand Sufi Tabib told us 773 00:40:28,970 --> 00:40:31,500 about the history of the region 774 00:40:31,500 --> 00:40:33,560 and expressed his hopes for 775 00:40:33,560 --> 00:40:34,870 the inspirational effect of former ties. 776 00:40:34,870 --> 00:40:37,803 (Dr. Tabib speaking French) 777 00:40:39,279 --> 00:40:41,900 Up until the 16th century central Asia 778 00:40:41,900 --> 00:40:45,310 was highly developed. 779 00:40:45,310 --> 00:40:47,153 That was because central Asia was the center of Sufism. 780 00:40:47,153 --> 00:40:51,543 All Sufi schools worldwide came here 781 00:40:52,960 --> 00:40:55,790 to spread the knowledge and to pursue their studies. 782 00:40:55,790 --> 00:41:00,000 They played a leading role in mathematics, 783 00:41:00,000 --> 00:41:02,500 physics, algebra, and so on. 784 00:41:02,500 --> 00:41:05,510 There were many sciences here, 785 00:41:05,510 --> 00:41:07,480 but when the official religion came to Uzbekistan, 786 00:41:07,480 --> 00:41:10,560 everything was destroyed. 787 00:41:10,560 --> 00:41:12,794 In the 15th century, Ulugbeg 788 00:41:12,794 --> 00:41:15,670 was a ruler in Samarkand 789 00:41:15,670 --> 00:41:17,460 who gave great service to science. 790 00:41:17,460 --> 00:41:19,677 (puppets chattering) 791 00:41:19,677 --> 00:41:22,010 The local puppet theater still portrays the grandson 792 00:41:22,010 --> 00:41:25,010 of mogul Khan Timur as a sensitive ruler. 793 00:41:25,010 --> 00:41:28,083 Ulugbeg in a blue cloak, 794 00:41:29,277 --> 00:41:31,340 a Monarch for whom books and observing his beloved stars 795 00:41:31,340 --> 00:41:34,860 were more important than power and intrigue. 796 00:41:34,860 --> 00:41:37,886 (puppets chattering) 797 00:41:37,886 --> 00:41:40,969 In the 15th century, Ulugbeg had this 798 00:41:43,100 --> 00:41:45,950 impressive observatory built in Samarkand. 799 00:41:45,950 --> 00:41:49,480 Today it once again, receives lots of visitors 800 00:41:49,480 --> 00:41:52,510 Back then, using a 40 meter long sextant, 801 00:41:56,970 --> 00:41:59,600 the Oriental Ruler succeeded in calculating 802 00:41:59,600 --> 00:42:02,130 the stellar year with little deviation 803 00:42:02,130 --> 00:42:04,440 from modern day measurements. 804 00:42:04,440 --> 00:42:05,890 Ulugbeg also observed hundreds of celestial bodies. 805 00:42:06,760 --> 00:42:10,170 This offended Islamic clergy of the day. 806 00:42:10,170 --> 00:42:12,930 They ended Ulugbeg's rule 807 00:42:12,930 --> 00:42:14,420 and destroyed the observatory. 808 00:42:14,420 --> 00:42:16,670 (inspirational Eastern music) 809 00:42:16,670 --> 00:42:17,670 We take our leave of the Orient. 810 00:42:17,670 --> 00:42:19,910 The buildings in Samarkand are again resplendent 811 00:42:19,910 --> 00:42:22,630 in their former beauty and tare thus 812 00:42:22,630 --> 00:42:24,840 reconciled with the abysses of history. 813 00:42:24,840 --> 00:42:27,650 (relaxing music continues) 61359

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