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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:02,750 --> 00:00:17,824 (birds shrieking) 2 00:00:17,824 --> 00:00:20,657 (water whooshing) 3 00:00:30,725 --> 00:00:32,500 Fed by tens of thousands of tributaries, 4 00:00:32,500 --> 00:00:35,710 the Amazon River crosses 5 00:00:35,710 --> 00:00:37,320 the entire South American continent. 6 00:00:37,320 --> 00:00:39,533 This, the mightiest river on earth, 7 00:00:42,300 --> 00:00:45,170 stretches 7,000 kilometers from its source 8 00:00:45,170 --> 00:00:48,030 in the high Andes 9 00:00:48,030 --> 00:00:49,640 before it flows into the Atlantic, 10 00:00:49,640 --> 00:00:51,950 off the coast of Northeastern Brazil. 11 00:00:51,950 --> 00:00:55,200 This sparsely populated Amazon Delta is a fascinating, 12 00:00:55,200 --> 00:00:59,200 largely unspoiled marine landscape. 13 00:00:59,200 --> 00:01:01,853 The tropical climate helps sustain a unique diversity 14 00:01:03,170 --> 00:01:06,640 of fauna and flora, from which the people live here. 15 00:01:06,640 --> 00:01:09,583 (dramatic music) 16 00:01:11,175 --> 00:01:13,925 The 250-kilometer-wide Amazon estuary 17 00:01:24,391 --> 00:01:27,930 has the largest water volume of any delta on earth. 18 00:01:27,930 --> 00:01:31,793 Our journey of discovery begins north of the delta 19 00:01:35,010 --> 00:01:38,380 in an untouched jungle area 20 00:01:38,380 --> 00:01:40,610 that can only be reached by boat. 21 00:01:40,610 --> 00:01:42,483 Christoph Jaster, a German native who grew up in Brazil, 22 00:01:51,930 --> 00:01:55,740 leads the expedition into a remote reserve. 23 00:01:55,740 --> 00:01:58,720 Scientists want to study the plant life 24 00:01:58,720 --> 00:02:01,040 in Tumucumaque Park, but they can only get there 25 00:02:01,040 --> 00:02:04,820 with the help of an experienced boatman. 26 00:02:04,820 --> 00:02:06,820 In some sections, 27 00:02:12,823 --> 00:02:13,770 it's only deep enough to get through with a boat 28 00:02:13,770 --> 00:02:15,770 for a length of one or one and a half meters. 29 00:02:15,770 --> 00:02:18,690 If you miss them, you'll immediately damage your boat, 30 00:02:18,690 --> 00:02:21,170 or in the worst case you might capsize. 31 00:02:21,170 --> 00:02:23,120 There's always a risk 32 00:02:26,530 --> 00:02:27,363 of hitting something with the outboard motor 33 00:02:27,363 --> 00:02:29,630 and having to return. 34 00:02:29,630 --> 00:02:30,850 That can jeopardize an entire expedition. 35 00:02:30,850 --> 00:02:32,913 (dramatic music) 36 00:02:34,125 --> 00:02:36,875 The journey continues deep into the jungle, 37 00:02:39,220 --> 00:02:42,380 hour after hour. 38 00:02:42,380 --> 00:02:44,070 There are no roads, no electricity, and no mobile signal. 39 00:02:44,070 --> 00:02:48,610 The river is the only way to reach 40 00:02:48,610 --> 00:02:50,890 this otherwise inaccessible wilderness. 41 00:02:50,890 --> 00:02:53,433 Beneath the 60-meter-high forest canopy, 42 00:02:54,600 --> 00:02:57,510 are many yet unexplored worlds. 43 00:02:57,510 --> 00:03:00,063 We have capsized in the past, 44 00:03:06,451 --> 00:03:08,390 and we lost a lot of our equipment as a result. 45 00:03:08,390 --> 00:03:10,640 It's not without danger. 46 00:03:10,640 --> 00:03:11,963 Indeed, the dangers lurk both in 47 00:03:13,940 --> 00:03:16,640 and out of the water. 48 00:03:16,640 --> 00:03:18,370 It's not just the caimans and snakes on the shoreline 49 00:03:18,370 --> 00:03:21,470 and the piranhas in the river that can be dangerous. 50 00:03:21,470 --> 00:03:24,453 The risk of being bitten 51 00:03:30,300 --> 00:03:31,220 is not quite as high as encountering an electric eel. 52 00:03:31,220 --> 00:03:34,510 The shock is extremely unpleasant. 53 00:03:34,510 --> 00:03:36,650 Depending on how sensitive the person is, 54 00:03:36,650 --> 00:03:38,780 they can sometimes fall unconscious 55 00:03:38,780 --> 00:03:40,860 and then drown. 56 00:03:40,860 --> 00:03:41,750 That's happened quite a few times. 57 00:03:41,750 --> 00:03:43,453 The electric eel can deliver a shock 58 00:03:44,790 --> 00:03:47,190 of up to 5,000 volts, 59 00:03:47,190 --> 00:03:49,430 but most of the animals, 60 00:03:49,430 --> 00:03:50,840 like this giant otter are harmless and rather shy. 61 00:03:50,840 --> 00:03:55,240 They can grow up to be two meters long 62 00:03:55,240 --> 00:03:57,720 and weigh up to 20 kilos. 63 00:03:57,720 --> 00:03:59,683 The river is also home to the Amazon dolphin, 64 00:04:03,920 --> 00:04:07,300 known locally as the boto, 65 00:04:07,300 --> 00:04:09,570 which grow to two to three meters long. 66 00:04:09,570 --> 00:04:12,550 They have tiny eyes and in murky waters, 67 00:04:12,550 --> 00:04:15,600 they're reliant on echolocation to catch small fish. 68 00:04:15,600 --> 00:04:18,923 (dramatic music) 69 00:04:19,815 --> 00:04:22,565 The river journey lasts until evening. 70 00:04:31,070 --> 00:04:34,260 It's dark by the time the expedition team finally arrives 71 00:04:34,260 --> 00:04:37,860 at the Tumucumaque Conservation Area. 72 00:04:37,860 --> 00:04:40,093 The base camp is not far from the river. 73 00:04:51,890 --> 00:04:55,220 Christoph Jaster uses a handcrafted shelter 74 00:04:55,220 --> 00:04:58,170 for his expeditions. 75 00:04:58,170 --> 00:04:59,960 The forestry scientist has been managing 76 00:04:59,960 --> 00:05:02,160 the Tumucumaque Reserve for eight years. 77 00:05:02,160 --> 00:05:05,630 He's supported by locals who know the area well. 78 00:05:05,630 --> 00:05:09,170 This time he is joined by young researchers 79 00:05:09,170 --> 00:05:11,910 from all over Brazil. 80 00:05:11,910 --> 00:05:13,773 (crickets chirring) 81 00:05:13,773 --> 00:05:16,773 They are here to study the biodiversity 82 00:05:22,130 --> 00:05:24,880 of the plant and animal life. 83 00:05:24,880 --> 00:05:27,150 This jungle is a treasure trove 84 00:05:27,150 --> 00:05:29,040 for botanists and biologists, 85 00:05:29,040 --> 00:05:31,400 and there are many new species to discover. 86 00:05:31,400 --> 00:05:33,933 (people speaking in foreign language) 87 00:05:41,170 --> 00:05:44,270 You have to climb up here, 88 00:05:44,270 --> 00:05:45,980 then from there onto the next tree, 89 00:05:45,980 --> 00:05:47,460 and up that branch. 90 00:05:47,460 --> 00:05:48,710 Place the trap up at the top. 91 00:05:48,710 --> 00:05:50,688 (birds chirping) 92 00:05:50,688 --> 00:05:53,438 They suddenly spot a sloth, 93 00:05:56,760 --> 00:05:58,680 high up in the canopy. 94 00:05:58,680 --> 00:06:00,520 When sloths are not searching for food 95 00:06:00,520 --> 00:06:03,020 and slowly stuffing their mouth with leaves, 96 00:06:03,020 --> 00:06:05,980 they spend their time resting upside down 97 00:06:05,980 --> 00:06:08,430 on a branch for hours on end. 98 00:06:08,430 --> 00:06:10,733 Three-toed sloths live a solitary life 99 00:06:12,310 --> 00:06:15,390 in the crowns of the trees. 100 00:06:15,390 --> 00:06:17,480 They can be found throughout the tropical regions 101 00:06:17,480 --> 00:06:20,090 of Central and South America. 102 00:06:20,090 --> 00:06:22,353 A few tamarins are leaping around 103 00:06:28,050 --> 00:06:30,160 in the second story of the vegetation zone. 104 00:06:30,160 --> 00:06:32,393 Tumucumaque National Park was founded in 2002, 105 00:06:33,410 --> 00:06:37,070 in collaboration with the Worldwide Fund for Nature, WWF. 106 00:06:37,070 --> 00:06:41,073 It covers an area almost the size of Switzerland 107 00:06:41,970 --> 00:06:45,620 and is the largest rainforest reserve in the world. 108 00:06:45,620 --> 00:06:49,070 Today, the WWF is continuing its program 109 00:06:49,070 --> 00:06:53,510 to protect the flora and fauna of the Amazon region. 110 00:06:53,510 --> 00:06:56,863 Fortunately, the rich diversity 111 00:06:59,870 --> 00:07:02,300 of species here has not suffered. 112 00:07:02,300 --> 00:07:05,070 In addition to Ara macaws, 113 00:07:05,070 --> 00:07:07,340 the forest supports more than 1000 species of birds. 114 00:07:07,340 --> 00:07:10,810 (peaceful music) 115 00:07:10,810 --> 00:07:13,560 Christoph Jaster's team is setting up butterfly traps. 116 00:07:19,250 --> 00:07:23,220 The number of butterfly species is an important indicator 117 00:07:23,220 --> 00:07:26,660 for biodiversity in the region. 118 00:07:26,660 --> 00:07:28,853 In general, we're interested 119 00:07:33,024 --> 00:07:34,360 in finding out whether the reserves are serving 120 00:07:34,360 --> 00:07:36,580 their purpose or not. 121 00:07:36,580 --> 00:07:38,060 Brazil is in deep crisis 122 00:07:38,060 --> 00:07:39,950 and I think it's always environmental protection 123 00:07:39,950 --> 00:07:42,580 that's first to be affected by it. 124 00:07:42,580 --> 00:07:44,280 (birds chirping) (insects chirring) 125 00:07:45,285 --> 00:07:50,285 The park covers an immense area 126 00:07:54,672 --> 00:07:56,470 and you only need to take a look around to see 127 00:07:56,470 --> 00:07:59,320 that everything is quite fine here. 128 00:07:59,320 --> 00:08:01,393 And of course we hope it stays that way. 129 00:08:02,550 --> 00:08:04,550 He's determined to ensure 130 00:08:06,930 --> 00:08:08,940 that the reserve in the Amazon is maintained, 131 00:08:08,940 --> 00:08:11,820 but more and more Brazilian politicians want 132 00:08:11,820 --> 00:08:14,540 to open up the region for the exploitation of raw materials. 133 00:08:14,540 --> 00:08:18,553 Suddenly, we hear the song of an uirapuru. 134 00:08:20,160 --> 00:08:22,673 (man whistling) (bird whistling) 135 00:08:25,075 --> 00:08:30,075 An uirapuru from another part 136 00:08:39,365 --> 00:08:41,230 of the Amazon has a totally different melody. 137 00:08:41,230 --> 00:08:44,490 Our one here, I still haven't quite got the melody down. 138 00:08:44,490 --> 00:08:47,890 He's quite friendly towards me 139 00:08:47,890 --> 00:08:49,840 and it always comes back 140 00:08:49,840 --> 00:08:51,190 as if we were having a whistling competition. 141 00:08:51,190 --> 00:08:53,790 He can do it 10 times better than me, of course, 142 00:08:53,790 --> 00:08:55,810 but it's still a fascinating form of communication. 143 00:08:55,810 --> 00:08:58,443 (bird whistling) (man whistling) 144 00:09:00,431 --> 00:09:05,431 (water whooshing) (thunder rumbles) 145 00:09:17,248 --> 00:09:20,600 A storm is brewing. 146 00:09:20,600 --> 00:09:22,570 It's time to head back to the base camp 147 00:09:22,570 --> 00:09:24,870 as quickly as possible. 148 00:09:24,870 --> 00:09:26,850 Sudden downpours are part of everyday life in the tropics. 149 00:09:26,850 --> 00:09:30,840 The heat of the equatorial sun evaporates the water 150 00:09:30,840 --> 00:09:34,240 in the nearby Atlantic Ocean 151 00:09:34,240 --> 00:09:36,150 and winds carry the water-laden clouds 152 00:09:36,150 --> 00:09:38,740 into the Amazon region 153 00:09:38,740 --> 00:09:40,600 where they release torrential showers, 154 00:09:40,600 --> 00:09:43,000 giving life to the incredible diversity of plants below. 155 00:09:43,000 --> 00:09:47,163 (peaceful music) 156 00:09:48,409 --> 00:09:50,660 A fully-grown rain forest giant 157 00:09:50,660 --> 00:09:53,080 draws up several thousand liters of water 158 00:09:53,080 --> 00:09:55,650 from the ground every day, releasing a similar amount back 159 00:09:55,650 --> 00:09:59,670 into the atmosphere as water vapor. 160 00:09:59,670 --> 00:10:02,153 The combination of extreme sunshine and extreme rain results 161 00:10:03,120 --> 00:10:07,470 in extraordinarily fast plant growth. 162 00:10:07,470 --> 00:10:10,620 The diverse range of organisms also helps 163 00:10:10,620 --> 00:10:13,520 to decompose organic matter much more quickly. 164 00:10:13,520 --> 00:10:16,863 The nutrients released 165 00:10:19,970 --> 00:10:21,300 by rotting plants collect in a very thin layer of humus 166 00:10:21,300 --> 00:10:25,160 that in turn promotes the growth of new plants. 167 00:10:25,160 --> 00:10:27,973 This constant cycle of life and death 168 00:10:28,920 --> 00:10:31,770 is a fascinating natural spectacle. 169 00:10:31,770 --> 00:10:34,146 (birds shrieking) 170 00:10:34,146 --> 00:10:36,979 Due to the high temperatures 171 00:10:39,407 --> 00:10:40,700 and heavy rainfall, 172 00:10:40,700 --> 00:10:42,220 much of the ground is worn away very quickly. 173 00:10:42,220 --> 00:10:45,200 Anything that falls down in the form of dead leaves 174 00:10:45,200 --> 00:10:47,850 or branches is immediately broken down 175 00:10:47,850 --> 00:10:50,710 and then absorbed by the living plants 176 00:10:50,710 --> 00:10:52,480 through their root systems. 177 00:10:52,480 --> 00:10:54,290 In the temperate zones, 178 00:10:54,290 --> 00:10:55,570 such as in the European deciduous forests, 179 00:10:55,570 --> 00:10:58,290 the nutrients are stored in the ground for a long time, 180 00:10:58,290 --> 00:11:01,600 but that doesn't happen in tropical rainforests 181 00:11:01,600 --> 00:11:03,940 in the same way. 182 00:11:03,940 --> 00:11:05,073 Once the humus layer is removed as a result of logging 183 00:11:05,920 --> 00:11:09,150 and forest clearing, 184 00:11:09,150 --> 00:11:10,590 the basis for plant growth is damaged almost beyond repair 185 00:11:10,590 --> 00:11:13,950 Ants, insects, fungi, bacteria. 186 00:11:17,550 --> 00:11:22,550 Every form of life 187 00:11:22,860 --> 00:11:24,480 has its own specific role in the ecosystem. 188 00:11:24,480 --> 00:11:28,200 Their multitude of fascinating and beautiful forms 189 00:11:28,200 --> 00:11:31,950 has developed over millions of years 190 00:11:31,950 --> 00:11:34,320 in a process of adaption 191 00:11:34,320 --> 00:11:36,070 to the unique conditions in the tropical rainforest. 192 00:11:36,070 --> 00:11:39,177 (peaceful music) 193 00:11:39,177 --> 00:11:41,927 The team of biologists check the butterfly traps. 194 00:11:49,440 --> 00:11:53,220 Perhaps they'll find a new undiscovered species. 195 00:11:53,220 --> 00:11:56,960 If Laris finds enough different butterfly species 196 00:11:56,960 --> 00:11:59,940 during the next two weeks, 197 00:11:59,940 --> 00:12:01,870 she will know that the biodiversity 198 00:12:01,870 --> 00:12:04,170 in the region is still intact. 199 00:12:04,170 --> 00:12:06,603 At first, it frantically moves its legs, 200 00:12:12,040 --> 00:12:14,170 then it keeps them still. 201 00:12:14,170 --> 00:12:15,810 And then it's easier to hold it. 202 00:12:15,810 --> 00:12:17,410 We are taking pictures of it with open and closed wings. 203 00:12:24,000 --> 00:12:27,420 This one here as well behaved. 204 00:12:27,420 --> 00:12:29,920 A butterfly family consists 205 00:12:29,920 --> 00:12:31,510 of various different butterfly species. 206 00:12:31,510 --> 00:12:34,210 To make our work easier, 207 00:12:34,210 --> 00:12:35,680 we only define the families 208 00:12:35,680 --> 00:12:37,310 of which there are 13 in all. 209 00:12:37,310 --> 00:12:38,800 It would be too complex to define every species, 210 00:12:38,800 --> 00:12:42,050 even for specialists. 211 00:12:42,050 --> 00:12:43,100 (peaceful music) 212 00:12:46,451 --> 00:12:49,201 You realize that the forest here is 213 00:12:55,870 --> 00:12:57,710 as it should be. 214 00:12:57,710 --> 00:12:58,960 There's a huge diversity of species and life forms. 215 00:12:58,960 --> 00:13:02,500 No one tree is like another. 216 00:13:02,500 --> 00:13:04,570 Even if they are the same species. 217 00:13:04,570 --> 00:13:06,950 There are tiny saplings 218 00:13:06,950 --> 00:13:08,590 and there are huge trees towering 60 meters high. 219 00:13:08,590 --> 00:13:12,140 The sheer range and variety of life 220 00:13:12,140 --> 00:13:14,250 in the rainforest ecosystem 221 00:13:14,250 --> 00:13:16,190 is simply fascinating. 222 00:13:16,190 --> 00:13:17,290 (dramatic music) 223 00:13:18,812 --> 00:13:21,562 But our children 224 00:13:32,500 --> 00:13:33,700 and grandchildren will only get to enjoy this diversity 225 00:13:33,700 --> 00:13:37,790 if we manage to preserve these protected areas 226 00:13:37,790 --> 00:13:41,080 and prevent their exploitation. 227 00:13:41,080 --> 00:13:43,123 The journey takes us into the Amazon Delta, 228 00:13:53,330 --> 00:13:56,680 past the river island of the Ilha de Marajo 229 00:13:56,680 --> 00:13:59,520 onto the neighboring river system of the Rio Tocantins. 230 00:14:00,770 --> 00:14:03,673 At the port town of Macapa, 231 00:14:07,660 --> 00:14:09,720 the Amazon is so wide 232 00:14:09,720 --> 00:14:11,780 that it feels as if you are standing next to the ocean. 233 00:14:11,780 --> 00:14:15,000 The equator runs directly through Macapa, 234 00:14:15,000 --> 00:14:17,890 which is the capital of the state of Amapa. 235 00:14:17,890 --> 00:14:20,646 (people chattering) 236 00:14:20,646 --> 00:14:23,100 The busiest part of the day is over 237 00:14:23,100 --> 00:14:25,180 in the market hall in Macapa. 238 00:14:25,180 --> 00:14:27,625 Naravin da Silva looks around to see what's left. 239 00:14:27,625 --> 00:14:31,220 He sells natural produce in his village 240 00:14:31,220 --> 00:14:33,540 on the outskirts of the city. 241 00:14:33,540 --> 00:14:35,770 Checking the prices in the market hall gives him an idea 242 00:14:35,770 --> 00:14:39,270 what to charge. 243 00:14:39,270 --> 00:14:40,273 What do they cost? 244 00:14:43,980 --> 00:14:45,930 One real. 245 00:14:45,930 --> 00:14:46,763 He promised his family 246 00:14:47,790 --> 00:14:49,180 that he would bring some fish. 247 00:14:49,180 --> 00:14:50,883 Hello, how much does a kilo 248 00:14:53,650 --> 00:14:55,490 of this filet cost? 249 00:14:55,490 --> 00:14:57,200 It's 35 reals per kilo. 250 00:14:57,200 --> 00:14:59,250 Did that big fish come from this area? 251 00:15:02,290 --> 00:15:04,400 From further up the Amazon. 252 00:15:04,400 --> 00:15:06,720 So you only got one of them. 253 00:15:06,720 --> 00:15:08,473 It's one of our best freshwater fish. 254 00:15:13,987 --> 00:15:17,300 We call it the piraiba and they can weigh up to 300 kilos. 255 00:15:17,300 --> 00:15:21,363 Unfortunately, it's been over fished in the Amazon region 256 00:15:24,020 --> 00:15:27,210 and now we only get them occasionally. 257 00:15:27,210 --> 00:15:29,110 They only catch a few of them these days. 258 00:15:32,160 --> 00:15:34,210 (dramatic music) 259 00:15:36,345 --> 00:15:39,095 Brazilian indigenous peoples, 260 00:15:46,540 --> 00:15:49,120 Portuguese immigrants, and descendants of African slaves 261 00:15:49,120 --> 00:15:53,390 have shaped the culture of Northern Brazil. 262 00:15:53,390 --> 00:15:56,133 These diverse influences can be heard in the music as well. 263 00:16:06,290 --> 00:16:10,800 Brazil's Amazon region is 264 00:16:10,800 --> 00:16:12,710 an extraordinary cultural melting pot, 265 00:16:12,710 --> 00:16:15,300 and the people here are proud of it. 266 00:16:15,300 --> 00:16:17,689 (upbeat music) 267 00:16:17,689 --> 00:16:20,272 (people cheering) 268 00:16:33,689 --> 00:16:35,511 (cars rumbling) 269 00:16:35,511 --> 00:16:38,178 (insects chirring) 270 00:16:42,045 --> 00:16:44,962 Just a few kilometers away, 271 00:16:45,900 --> 00:16:48,260 Naravin is searching for a type of fruit capsule 272 00:16:48,260 --> 00:16:51,330 that he harvests to make a living. 273 00:16:51,330 --> 00:16:54,000 It can be found in the tropical swamp forest 274 00:16:54,000 --> 00:16:56,560 not far from the river. 275 00:16:56,560 --> 00:16:58,411 (suspenseful music) 276 00:16:58,411 --> 00:17:01,411 The water rises up to here 277 00:17:05,250 --> 00:17:06,740 in the rainy season. 278 00:17:06,740 --> 00:17:07,973 From January until early August. 279 00:17:09,090 --> 00:17:11,373 Then it's the dry season until January again. 280 00:17:13,810 --> 00:17:16,513 In the swamps forest of the delta, 281 00:17:18,940 --> 00:17:21,050 known as várzeas, 282 00:17:21,050 --> 00:17:22,610 there's a very humid microclimate. 283 00:17:22,610 --> 00:17:25,280 Naravin knows exactly where to search. 284 00:17:25,280 --> 00:17:28,260 Like most people in this area, 285 00:17:28,260 --> 00:17:30,300 he is the descendant of the indigenous inhabitants. 286 00:17:30,300 --> 00:17:33,391 (birds chirping) 287 00:17:33,391 --> 00:17:36,141 The andiroba seeds have a lot of uses 288 00:17:43,869 --> 00:17:46,080 in medicine and they're also used for skincare. 289 00:17:46,080 --> 00:17:50,120 We river people earn good money by selling them. 290 00:17:50,120 --> 00:17:53,243 That means we definitely won't be cutting down this tree 291 00:17:53,243 --> 00:17:56,043 Naravin lives with his family, his wife, 292 00:18:00,928 --> 00:18:03,400 and two children, on the boundary 293 00:18:03,400 --> 00:18:05,670 of the várzea area in a typical wooden house on stilts. 294 00:18:05,670 --> 00:18:09,950 The elevated design protects them 295 00:18:09,950 --> 00:18:12,100 from floods in the rainy season 296 00:18:12,100 --> 00:18:14,120 and the tides of the nearby Atlantic Ocean. 297 00:18:14,120 --> 00:18:16,683 The fruits and medicinal herbs they find 298 00:18:19,650 --> 00:18:22,270 in the surrounding area provide them with a modest income. 299 00:18:22,270 --> 00:18:26,588 Naravin is a specialist 300 00:18:26,588 --> 00:18:28,120 in the production of andiroba oil. 301 00:18:28,120 --> 00:18:30,360 The oil's anti-inflammatory properties are used 302 00:18:30,360 --> 00:18:33,200 to treat skin conditions or external injuries. 303 00:18:33,200 --> 00:18:36,310 The nuts are boiled after they are harvested 304 00:18:36,310 --> 00:18:38,910 and then stored for a few weeks 305 00:18:38,910 --> 00:18:40,480 to allow them to ferment. 306 00:18:40,480 --> 00:18:42,200 The insides gradually turn into a soft mass, 307 00:18:42,200 --> 00:18:45,210 from which the oil slowly separates. 308 00:18:45,210 --> 00:18:48,519 (stick tapping) 309 00:18:48,519 --> 00:18:51,186 This tradition has almost died out 310 00:18:55,430 --> 00:18:57,410 in the Amazon region. 311 00:18:57,410 --> 00:18:58,960 We're trying to revive it here in our community. 312 00:18:58,960 --> 00:19:01,900 A lot of young people nowadays don't even 313 00:19:01,900 --> 00:19:04,050 know what andiroba is. 314 00:19:04,050 --> 00:19:05,733 We have various ways of earning a living from nature. 315 00:19:07,420 --> 00:19:10,210 Early in the morning, I go to gather andiroba. 316 00:19:10,210 --> 00:19:12,950 After 10 o'clock, I harvest acai from the palms 317 00:19:12,950 --> 00:19:15,637 and in the afternoon, I go fishing. 318 00:19:15,637 --> 00:19:17,653 (dramatic music) 319 00:19:18,726 --> 00:19:21,476 Naravin is traveling 320 00:19:23,010 --> 00:19:24,130 to the other side of the Amazon, 321 00:19:24,130 --> 00:19:26,170 which is almost 50 kilometers wide here, 322 00:19:26,170 --> 00:19:29,190 along with his brother Macajeiro, 323 00:19:29,190 --> 00:19:31,220 a certified skipper, 324 00:19:31,220 --> 00:19:32,770 they want to visit relatives in the town of Afua 325 00:19:32,770 --> 00:19:35,820 where they grew up. 326 00:19:35,820 --> 00:19:36,770 Ships loaded with ore and soybeans from the Amazon region 327 00:19:39,910 --> 00:19:43,840 travel through the delta on their way to the Atlantic. 328 00:19:43,840 --> 00:19:46,853 (horn toots) 329 00:19:52,338 --> 00:19:54,755 A constant stream of gaiolas pass by. 330 00:20:05,640 --> 00:20:08,670 The multi-decked ships that are the main form 331 00:20:08,670 --> 00:20:11,230 of transport in the delta. 332 00:20:11,230 --> 00:20:13,320 They can hold their own 333 00:20:13,320 --> 00:20:14,460 against the powerful currents far better 334 00:20:14,460 --> 00:20:16,760 than smaller vessels. 335 00:20:16,760 --> 00:20:18,083 As it leaves the country's interior, 336 00:20:20,360 --> 00:20:22,500 the Amazon flows with a very strong current, 337 00:20:22,500 --> 00:20:25,180 but it's met with equally strong currents from the Atlantic. 338 00:20:25,180 --> 00:20:28,540 These waters can be perilous for small boats. 339 00:20:28,540 --> 00:20:31,630 When the incoming tide from the sea meets the outflow 340 00:20:31,630 --> 00:20:34,640 of the river, there are eddies and waves. 341 00:20:34,640 --> 00:20:37,240 You can easily capsize and drown, 342 00:20:37,240 --> 00:20:40,110 but the Amazon is part of our life. 343 00:20:40,110 --> 00:20:42,190 It's like a part of our body. 344 00:20:42,190 --> 00:20:43,800 Without it, we can't live 345 00:20:43,800 --> 00:20:47,778 (suspenseful music) 346 00:20:47,778 --> 00:20:50,778 Naravin and Macajeiro 347 00:20:51,820 --> 00:20:53,560 weave through an archipelago of smaller islands 348 00:20:53,560 --> 00:20:56,500 to Ilha de Marajó, 349 00:20:56,500 --> 00:20:57,457 the largest river island on Earth. 350 00:20:58,300 --> 00:21:00,670 It's roughly the same size as the Netherlands. 351 00:21:00,670 --> 00:21:03,313 In the brackish water, 352 00:21:04,690 --> 00:21:06,230 a few dolphins can be seen splashing around. 353 00:21:06,230 --> 00:21:08,603 (upbeat music) 354 00:21:09,814 --> 00:21:12,397 (boat rumbling) 355 00:21:16,505 --> 00:21:19,172 Afua is a typical small Amazon town 356 00:21:23,893 --> 00:21:26,380 with characteristic wooden houses on stilts. 357 00:21:26,380 --> 00:21:29,480 The locals are celebrating the Festival do Camarão, 358 00:21:29,480 --> 00:21:32,640 the shrimp festival. 359 00:21:32,640 --> 00:21:34,190 For the inhabitants of the delta, 360 00:21:34,190 --> 00:21:36,030 this is one of the highlights of the year. 361 00:21:36,030 --> 00:21:38,549 (upbeat music) 362 00:21:38,549 --> 00:21:41,216 The festival gives the two men a welcome excuse 363 00:21:46,600 --> 00:21:49,700 to visit their hometown. 364 00:21:49,700 --> 00:21:51,063 (man speaking in foreign language) 365 00:21:56,755 --> 00:22:01,005 Here in this remote part of Brazil, 366 00:22:05,309 --> 00:22:07,750 most people make a living from fishing or agriculture. 367 00:22:07,750 --> 00:22:11,290 Since the former president, Lula, 368 00:22:11,290 --> 00:22:13,430 introduced the Bolsa Familia, 369 00:22:13,430 --> 00:22:15,440 a form of social welfare for families, 370 00:22:15,440 --> 00:22:18,050 even the poorest have a basic livelihood. 371 00:22:18,050 --> 00:22:20,793 In the old days, 372 00:22:24,010 --> 00:22:24,850 we never used to leave here. 373 00:22:24,850 --> 00:22:27,170 Our whole family lived here, 374 00:22:27,170 --> 00:22:28,960 our cousins, nieces, and nephews. 375 00:22:28,960 --> 00:22:31,920 It was our hometown. 376 00:22:31,920 --> 00:22:33,133 Nowadays, life's much better. 377 00:22:36,420 --> 00:22:38,420 A few years ago, 378 00:22:38,420 --> 00:22:39,270 there was nothing going on here, 379 00:22:39,270 --> 00:22:41,000 but now you can see people having fun 380 00:22:41,000 --> 00:22:43,150 and they know how to dress. 381 00:22:43,150 --> 00:22:44,910 Back then, there weren't even any schools 382 00:22:44,910 --> 00:22:46,980 but that's improved a lot now. 383 00:22:46,980 --> 00:22:48,480 Yeah, that's right. 384 00:22:50,250 --> 00:22:51,920 The schools were all far away. 385 00:22:51,920 --> 00:22:53,610 Nowadays, there are more than 40 schools 386 00:22:53,610 --> 00:22:55,730 on the archipelago for the island's children. 387 00:22:55,730 --> 00:22:57,980 (upbeat music) 388 00:23:00,560 --> 00:23:03,143 (peaceful music) (water whooshing) 389 00:23:07,577 --> 00:23:12,577 The journey continues to Breves, 390 00:23:15,880 --> 00:23:18,310 of port town in the middle of the delta. 391 00:23:18,310 --> 00:23:20,950 It lies on a branch of the river that connects the Amazon 392 00:23:20,950 --> 00:23:24,380 to the Tocantins river system. 393 00:23:24,380 --> 00:23:26,323 Breves is the largest town on Marajo Island. 394 00:23:29,080 --> 00:23:32,810 By boat, it's an eight hour journey from the mainland. 395 00:23:32,810 --> 00:23:36,410 It's a center of the local boat building industry. 396 00:23:36,410 --> 00:23:39,527 (peaceful music) 397 00:23:39,527 --> 00:23:42,360 Simao Costas Araf decorates boats and ships 398 00:23:44,350 --> 00:23:48,070 of all types with great artistry and imagination. 399 00:23:48,070 --> 00:23:52,060 Every locality in the delta has produced its own style. 400 00:23:52,060 --> 00:23:55,733 Simao's use of color and the form of his lettering 401 00:23:58,090 --> 00:24:01,720 have influenced the typical Breves style. 402 00:24:01,720 --> 00:24:05,167 (peaceful music) 403 00:24:05,167 --> 00:24:07,917 It's all about the form 404 00:24:16,770 --> 00:24:17,900 of the letters and the colors that you choose, 405 00:24:17,900 --> 00:24:20,930 but you need to have a passion for it. 406 00:24:20,930 --> 00:24:22,830 You can only achieve perfection 407 00:24:25,080 --> 00:24:26,920 if you do it with love and dedication. 408 00:24:26,920 --> 00:24:30,160 That's how we Marajo islanders in Breves are. 409 00:24:30,160 --> 00:24:32,787 (bats chirring) 410 00:24:35,884 --> 00:24:38,551 (awe-inspiring music) 411 00:24:42,021 --> 00:24:45,271 The interior of the huge river island 412 00:24:54,410 --> 00:24:56,710 is only accessible through the igapos, 413 00:24:56,710 --> 00:24:59,540 the typical river channels in the delta. 414 00:24:59,540 --> 00:25:02,710 Their water levels are influenced 415 00:25:02,710 --> 00:25:04,790 both by the Atlantic tides and by the rainy season. 416 00:25:04,790 --> 00:25:09,175 (boat rumbling) 417 00:25:09,175 --> 00:25:11,842 (birds chirping) 418 00:25:15,129 --> 00:25:17,160 Like most river dwellers, Jose Consaves 419 00:25:17,160 --> 00:25:20,080 and his wife make a living by selling palm fruits 420 00:25:20,080 --> 00:25:22,720 from their acai plantation. 421 00:25:22,720 --> 00:25:24,383 Due to his short stature, 422 00:25:25,500 --> 00:25:27,090 his friends call him Quadrina for shorty, 423 00:25:27,090 --> 00:25:30,750 though, in his work, 424 00:25:30,750 --> 00:25:32,100 his light weight is a major advantage. 425 00:25:32,100 --> 00:25:34,423 (suspenseful music) (birds chirping) 426 00:25:35,356 --> 00:25:40,356 Like most boys in this area, 427 00:25:49,070 --> 00:25:50,930 at the age of 12, he started clamoring up palm trees 428 00:25:50,930 --> 00:25:54,580 to harvest the acai berries. 429 00:25:54,580 --> 00:25:57,182 Ilha de Marajó is the world's largest growing area 430 00:25:57,182 --> 00:26:00,790 for this nutritious palm fruit. 431 00:26:00,790 --> 00:26:02,553 Nowadays, his sons and several nephews help out 432 00:26:04,170 --> 00:26:07,810 with the strenuous work of picking the fruit. 433 00:26:07,810 --> 00:26:10,373 Jose won't be able to do this dangerous work 434 00:26:11,280 --> 00:26:14,030 for much longer. 435 00:26:14,030 --> 00:26:15,053 These trees are quite small 436 00:26:24,710 --> 00:26:26,352 but in the jungle they're much taller. 437 00:26:26,352 --> 00:26:28,660 So it's quite difficult to climb them. 438 00:26:28,660 --> 00:26:31,230 I've had a few accidents in the past. 439 00:26:31,230 --> 00:26:33,450 Once I fell from 10 meters up, 440 00:26:33,450 --> 00:26:35,220 but luckily I landed in the river in the mud. 441 00:26:35,220 --> 00:26:38,160 That saved my life. 442 00:26:38,160 --> 00:26:39,433 My cousin wasn't so lucky. 443 00:26:40,820 --> 00:26:42,360 He's in a wheelchair now. 444 00:26:42,360 --> 00:26:43,773 Every family here 445 00:26:48,210 --> 00:26:49,450 has at least one similar story to tell, 446 00:26:49,450 --> 00:26:52,250 but how else can you harvest these berries? 447 00:26:52,250 --> 00:26:54,940 Up to now, no one has come up with a better solution. 448 00:26:54,940 --> 00:26:58,213 Jose's family own several hundred palms. 449 00:27:09,340 --> 00:27:12,750 They keep some of the acai berries for themselves, 450 00:27:12,750 --> 00:27:15,760 but the majority are sold through a cooperative. 451 00:27:15,760 --> 00:27:18,503 Jose's wife, Sonia, soaks the acai berries in hot water 452 00:27:26,020 --> 00:27:29,710 so they become soft. 453 00:27:29,710 --> 00:27:31,520 She uses the flesh of the fruit 454 00:27:31,520 --> 00:27:33,340 to produce the typical sweet-sour purple acai puree, 455 00:27:33,340 --> 00:27:37,290 the most important staple food in the region. 456 00:27:37,290 --> 00:27:40,163 (people speaking in foreign language) 457 00:27:41,122 --> 00:27:45,622 Harvesters bring more baskets. 458 00:27:52,900 --> 00:27:55,013 Acai is considered a super food 459 00:27:56,350 --> 00:27:58,630 because of its high vitamin content and many nutrients 460 00:27:58,630 --> 00:28:01,920 and global demand is increasing. 461 00:28:01,920 --> 00:28:04,013 The co-operative's boat transports the day's harvest 462 00:28:18,300 --> 00:28:21,350 to the next town. 463 00:28:21,350 --> 00:28:22,830 Jose and Sonia are members. 464 00:28:22,830 --> 00:28:25,013 Using a kind of blender, 465 00:28:28,510 --> 00:28:30,420 Sonia separates the thin pulp from the stones. 466 00:28:30,420 --> 00:28:33,533 All the people in Para like acai. 467 00:28:34,960 --> 00:28:37,680 We always eat it as part of our main meal. 468 00:28:37,680 --> 00:28:40,420 First, a spoonful of rice, then a spoonful of acai, 469 00:28:40,420 --> 00:28:43,993 but I do it differently. 470 00:28:45,210 --> 00:28:46,670 First I eat the main course, 471 00:28:46,670 --> 00:28:48,600 then I eat the acai after. 472 00:28:48,600 --> 00:28:50,403 (peaceful music) (boat humming) 473 00:28:55,820 --> 00:29:00,820 Jose has an appointment with Iada, 474 00:29:14,350 --> 00:29:16,740 the boss of the acai cooperative. 475 00:29:16,740 --> 00:29:19,720 In the swamp forests, 476 00:29:19,720 --> 00:29:21,110 people live only along the banks of the river. 477 00:29:21,110 --> 00:29:23,570 The Marajo Archipelago, with its labyrinth of waterways, 478 00:29:23,570 --> 00:29:28,140 is a tropical island paradise. 479 00:29:28,140 --> 00:29:30,740 They live in harmony with nature, 480 00:29:30,740 --> 00:29:33,080 without upsetting the balance of the ecosystem. 481 00:29:33,080 --> 00:29:35,813 Jose wants to buy groceries in the cooperative shop 482 00:29:49,670 --> 00:29:52,420 on the Rio Canaticú. 483 00:29:52,420 --> 00:29:53,583 Iada's wife opened the small store just a few months ago. 484 00:29:54,620 --> 00:29:58,340 The cooperative consists of about 100 families 485 00:29:58,340 --> 00:30:01,460 who collectively market their acai berry produce. 486 00:30:01,460 --> 00:30:04,443 I'm an example of how it can succeed. 487 00:30:13,540 --> 00:30:16,190 After the cooperative was founded, 488 00:30:17,530 --> 00:30:19,650 my income increased by about 60%. 489 00:30:19,650 --> 00:30:23,363 We're much better organized now. 490 00:30:27,070 --> 00:30:29,830 It's easier to deal with the accounts and taxes 491 00:30:29,830 --> 00:30:33,000 and we trade in larger quantities. 492 00:30:33,000 --> 00:30:34,723 Before we used to sell our produce individually 493 00:30:35,940 --> 00:30:38,390 at lower prices. 494 00:30:38,390 --> 00:30:40,003 (upbeat music) 495 00:30:42,773 --> 00:30:45,356 Belém, the capital city of the state of Para, 496 00:30:51,330 --> 00:30:54,450 lies on the eastern side of the delta 497 00:30:54,450 --> 00:30:56,840 and is the largest and most important port 498 00:30:56,840 --> 00:30:59,050 in the Amazon region. 499 00:30:59,050 --> 00:31:00,850 The fishing boats dock after midnight. 500 00:31:00,850 --> 00:31:02,893 The peak period is before sunrise. 501 00:31:03,990 --> 00:31:06,910 The fishermen don't only bring catches from the interior 502 00:31:06,910 --> 00:31:09,950 and from the delta, 503 00:31:09,950 --> 00:31:11,340 fish from the Atlantic are also unloaded 504 00:31:11,340 --> 00:31:14,170 at the famous Ver-O-Peso Market in the port city. 505 00:31:14,170 --> 00:31:18,215 (upbeat music) 506 00:31:18,215 --> 00:31:21,399 (motors rumbling) (birds shrieking) 507 00:31:21,399 --> 00:31:26,399 Here too, piraiba are on sale. 508 00:31:31,130 --> 00:31:34,530 This large type of catfish is one 509 00:31:34,530 --> 00:31:36,570 of the most sought-after predatory fish 510 00:31:36,570 --> 00:31:38,900 in the Amazon region. 511 00:31:38,900 --> 00:31:40,631 (people shouting in foreign language) 512 00:31:40,631 --> 00:31:43,810 David Ferera D'Acosta brings two and a half tons 513 00:31:43,810 --> 00:31:47,380 of fish into the market hall every day, 514 00:31:47,380 --> 00:31:50,600 from midnight until seven in the morning. 515 00:31:50,600 --> 00:31:53,470 With each load, he balances over 100 kilograms of fish 516 00:31:53,470 --> 00:31:57,640 on his head. 517 00:31:57,640 --> 00:31:58,473 He started working as a fish porter at the age of 16. 518 00:31:59,390 --> 00:32:03,170 It's a job that's been done here for hundreds of years. 519 00:32:03,170 --> 00:32:06,550 He's happy in his work because he can relax 520 00:32:06,550 --> 00:32:08,990 for the rest of the day and earn 350 euros a month. 521 00:32:08,990 --> 00:32:12,653 But it took some time 522 00:32:13,750 --> 00:32:14,790 for him to get used to the heavy loads. 523 00:32:14,790 --> 00:32:16,833 It's really heavy work. 524 00:32:25,120 --> 00:32:27,148 I once slipped on a plastic bag while carrying a load 525 00:32:27,148 --> 00:32:29,840 of 100 kilos. 526 00:32:29,840 --> 00:32:31,083 I left the scales with 100 kilos on my head, 527 00:32:33,800 --> 00:32:36,610 and there was this plastic bag lying there. 528 00:32:36,610 --> 00:32:38,783 I slipped, pushing the basket in front of me, 529 00:32:40,900 --> 00:32:43,707 but the edge landed on my foot. 530 00:32:43,707 --> 00:32:45,263 It caused a hematoma which got infected, 531 00:32:46,940 --> 00:32:49,277 and I had to have an operation. 532 00:32:49,277 --> 00:32:51,303 But everything's fine now, thank God. 533 00:32:53,500 --> 00:32:55,363 (birds shrieking) 534 00:32:56,583 --> 00:32:59,416 After sunrise, the jetty empties. 535 00:33:01,170 --> 00:33:04,770 The wholesalers have stocked up 536 00:33:04,770 --> 00:33:06,820 and the normal customers are happy to buy what's left. 537 00:33:06,820 --> 00:33:09,853 Now the fish sales get underway 538 00:33:15,220 --> 00:33:17,410 at the Ver-O-Peso market hall, 539 00:33:17,410 --> 00:33:19,640 one of the most famous fish markets in the world. 540 00:33:19,640 --> 00:33:22,970 The sheer variety and amount of fish 541 00:33:22,970 --> 00:33:25,310 in the Amazon defies the imagination. 542 00:33:25,310 --> 00:33:28,880 The main river and its tributaries are home 543 00:33:28,880 --> 00:33:32,090 to over 2,200 species of fish, 544 00:33:32,090 --> 00:33:35,660 more than in the entire Atlantic. 545 00:33:35,660 --> 00:33:38,433 By comparison, all the rivers in Europe combined 546 00:33:39,400 --> 00:33:43,400 have just 150 species of fish. 547 00:33:43,400 --> 00:33:45,988 (bright music) 548 00:33:45,988 --> 00:33:48,571 In a different part of the port, 549 00:33:55,140 --> 00:33:56,870 the acai boats are unloading their freight. 550 00:33:56,870 --> 00:33:59,810 The port at Belém is the main trade hub 551 00:33:59,810 --> 00:34:02,590 for this valuable fruit. 552 00:34:02,590 --> 00:34:04,560 Part of the harvest from the Delta is shipped 553 00:34:04,560 --> 00:34:07,090 to the country's interior and the rest is transported 554 00:34:07,090 --> 00:34:10,260 to Sao Paulo and Rio de Janeiro or sold abroad. 555 00:34:10,260 --> 00:34:14,188 (people chattering) 556 00:34:14,188 --> 00:34:17,188 (upbeat music) 557 00:34:23,691 --> 00:34:26,274 Another source of income for people 558 00:34:31,900 --> 00:34:33,720 from the Delta is the sale of medicinal herbs 559 00:34:33,720 --> 00:34:36,750 from the Amazon region. 560 00:34:36,750 --> 00:34:38,960 At the small market behind the market hall, 561 00:34:38,960 --> 00:34:41,510 the herb women offer plant cures based 562 00:34:41,510 --> 00:34:44,260 on traditional recipes. 563 00:34:44,260 --> 00:34:45,773 For example, Mirasi da Silva sells more 564 00:34:52,360 --> 00:34:55,260 than 50 types of leaves, roots, and tinctures. 565 00:34:55,260 --> 00:34:58,350 (women speaking in foreign language) 566 00:34:58,350 --> 00:35:02,767 Herbal mixtures to heal infections 567 00:35:08,020 --> 00:35:10,410 for the prostate or to stimulate the libido. 568 00:35:10,410 --> 00:35:13,463 This elixir here is the Rolls Royce 569 00:35:17,690 --> 00:35:20,050 of my range. 570 00:35:20,050 --> 00:35:21,390 It works for both men and women, 571 00:35:21,390 --> 00:35:23,240 both tasty and good medicine. 572 00:35:23,240 --> 00:35:25,723 Shake it, and drink it three times a day 573 00:35:28,870 --> 00:35:32,030 if you're feeling weak. 574 00:35:32,030 --> 00:35:33,590 It brings you good fortune and raises your spirits. 575 00:35:33,590 --> 00:35:36,273 Professor Wagner Barbosa researches 576 00:35:41,770 --> 00:35:44,120 the indigenous people's traditional herbal remedies 577 00:35:44,120 --> 00:35:46,780 at the University of Para in Belém. 578 00:35:46,780 --> 00:35:49,650 He has known Mirasi for years. 579 00:35:49,650 --> 00:35:51,683 Right now we're selling this plant. 580 00:35:55,470 --> 00:35:57,930 You can make tea with it. 581 00:35:57,930 --> 00:35:59,493 Just wash it thoroughly, crush it, 582 00:36:00,380 --> 00:36:03,320 and we'll mix it with mint. 583 00:36:03,320 --> 00:36:04,670 The whole plant? 584 00:36:06,692 --> 00:36:07,820 No, you only use the bulb. 585 00:36:07,820 --> 00:36:09,430 That's the only part that has healing properties. 586 00:36:09,430 --> 00:36:11,880 I've been coming 587 00:36:14,789 --> 00:36:15,622 to this part of the market 588 00:36:15,622 --> 00:36:17,090 where all the herbal remedies are sold 589 00:36:17,090 --> 00:36:19,390 for the last 20 years. 590 00:36:19,390 --> 00:36:21,440 It's a real treasure trove 591 00:36:21,440 --> 00:36:22,810 of knowledge and experience. 592 00:36:22,810 --> 00:36:24,603 You can find medicinal plants here 593 00:36:25,550 --> 00:36:27,770 that don't exist anywhere else. 594 00:36:27,770 --> 00:36:29,883 It's a cultural treasure 595 00:36:31,100 --> 00:36:32,440 that's based on the experience of the indigenous people 596 00:36:32,440 --> 00:36:36,070 In a lab at the University of Para, 597 00:36:39,250 --> 00:36:41,660 Professor Barbosa and his team are studying 598 00:36:41,660 --> 00:36:44,430 around a dozen different plants from the Amazon region. 599 00:36:44,430 --> 00:36:47,800 They isolate their chemical components 600 00:36:47,800 --> 00:36:50,370 and study their effects. 601 00:36:50,370 --> 00:36:51,940 We've managed to analyze the makeup 602 00:36:59,199 --> 00:37:01,260 of a medicinal plant 603 00:37:01,260 --> 00:37:02,740 with the botanical name Eleutherine plicata. 604 00:37:02,740 --> 00:37:07,710 We've discovered it's active components 605 00:37:07,710 --> 00:37:10,070 and proven that they are efficient against amoebas. 606 00:37:10,070 --> 00:37:13,890 This botanical medicine is now recognized 607 00:37:13,890 --> 00:37:16,250 as a remedy in the official Brazilian pharmacopeia. 608 00:37:16,250 --> 00:37:19,393 (awe-inspiring music) 609 00:37:20,662 --> 00:37:23,829 The Bay of Para lies 610 00:37:25,270 --> 00:37:27,210 in the eastern part of the delta. 611 00:37:27,210 --> 00:37:29,380 It's connected to the Amazon by a tributary. 612 00:37:29,380 --> 00:37:32,780 on this side of Marajo Island, 613 00:37:32,780 --> 00:37:35,140 buffalo farms have displaced many várzea forests. 614 00:37:35,140 --> 00:37:38,703 (insects chirring) 615 00:37:42,797 --> 00:37:45,714 (upbeat music) 616 00:37:56,591 --> 00:37:59,710 The Bom Jesus Farm, not far from the town of Soure, 617 00:37:59,710 --> 00:38:03,560 has a Wild West feel to it. 618 00:38:03,560 --> 00:38:05,323 Around 1000 water buffalo are kept on the farm. 619 00:38:07,540 --> 00:38:11,070 They are very content in the broad pastureland 620 00:38:11,070 --> 00:38:14,010 with its many floodplains. 621 00:38:14,010 --> 00:38:15,427 (buffalo mooing) 622 00:38:15,427 --> 00:38:18,177 The arrival of the buffalo 100 years ago was the result 623 00:38:21,010 --> 00:38:24,750 of an accident. 624 00:38:24,750 --> 00:38:26,150 A ship laden with an Asian water buffalo capsized 625 00:38:26,150 --> 00:38:30,020 just off the coast. 626 00:38:30,020 --> 00:38:31,700 The cattle swam to the shore of Ilha de Marajó 627 00:38:31,700 --> 00:38:35,100 and managed to survive in the wilderness, 628 00:38:35,100 --> 00:38:37,660 among the rich bird life, 629 00:38:37,660 --> 00:38:39,370 including the roseate spoonbill, 630 00:38:39,370 --> 00:38:41,460 the heron, and the scarlet ibis. 631 00:38:41,460 --> 00:38:43,743 Since that time, other buffalo species have been introduced 632 00:38:48,420 --> 00:38:52,270 from countries such as Italy. 633 00:38:52,270 --> 00:38:54,730 Carlos and two other cowboys take care of the herd. 634 00:38:54,730 --> 00:38:58,323 It's my job to watch over the herd every day 635 00:39:03,357 --> 00:39:06,740 and to take care of the farm. 636 00:39:06,740 --> 00:39:08,473 Whenever there are problems with the animals, 637 00:39:10,030 --> 00:39:12,570 we contact our vet, Dr. Ava, 638 00:39:12,570 --> 00:39:15,093 and she comes over to treat them. 639 00:39:16,590 --> 00:39:18,240 Buffalo breeding is a lucrative business 640 00:39:22,040 --> 00:39:24,580 because the meat is highly prized. 641 00:39:24,580 --> 00:39:27,320 The huge herds don't require many staff, 642 00:39:27,320 --> 00:39:30,360 and there is plenty of pasture and water here, 643 00:39:30,360 --> 00:39:33,610 but from the air, 644 00:39:33,610 --> 00:39:34,850 it's clear how much land the farms swallow up 645 00:39:34,850 --> 00:39:38,350 and how much swamp forest has been destroyed. 646 00:39:38,350 --> 00:39:41,309 (suspenseful music) 647 00:39:41,309 --> 00:39:42,142 800,000 water buffalo live in this part of Marajo Island. 648 00:39:42,142 --> 00:39:46,800 This benefits a few hundred wealthy landowners 649 00:39:46,800 --> 00:39:49,830 who employ just a few farm hands 650 00:39:49,830 --> 00:39:52,030 and have the power to assert their own interests. 651 00:39:52,030 --> 00:39:55,091 (suspenseful music) 652 00:39:55,091 --> 00:39:58,091 Environmental activist Joal Miralez is campaigning 653 00:40:01,560 --> 00:40:04,770 for sustainable agricultural practices 654 00:40:04,770 --> 00:40:07,070 that would benefit the wider majority, 655 00:40:07,070 --> 00:40:09,060 while preserving the region's natural resources. 656 00:40:09,060 --> 00:40:11,693 The thing is that the buffalo is a very heavy animal 657 00:40:12,627 --> 00:40:16,570 and so there is a very fragile ecosystem. 658 00:40:16,570 --> 00:40:20,380 It may not look like it, but it's very fragile, 659 00:40:20,380 --> 00:40:23,400 and where they pass in the dry season, 660 00:40:23,400 --> 00:40:25,770 it becomes like a small river in the wet season. 661 00:40:25,770 --> 00:40:29,060 They destroy the local mangroves, 662 00:40:29,060 --> 00:40:30,880 the small parts that are some other ecosystems like forest 663 00:40:30,880 --> 00:40:35,220 like marginal forest from the rivers. 664 00:40:35,220 --> 00:40:37,410 They are just trying from the inside. 665 00:40:37,410 --> 00:40:39,283 Cattle farming is not only a threat 666 00:40:40,250 --> 00:40:42,100 to the delta. 667 00:40:42,100 --> 00:40:43,390 Every year, huge areas of the Amazon region are sacrificed 668 00:40:43,390 --> 00:40:47,550 for meat production, 669 00:40:47,550 --> 00:40:49,060 but due to the poor soil, 670 00:40:49,060 --> 00:40:50,800 the herds can only graze on the pastures for a few years. 671 00:40:50,800 --> 00:40:54,930 After that, the cattle farmers move into new areas. 672 00:40:54,930 --> 00:40:58,543 The soybean farms that produce cattle feed 673 00:40:59,400 --> 00:41:01,700 for Europe and Asia 674 00:41:01,700 --> 00:41:03,530 also result in the destruction of huge tracts of rainforest. 675 00:41:03,530 --> 00:41:07,093 Over the last 30 years, 676 00:41:08,580 --> 00:41:10,420 almost a quarter of the Amazon rainforest has been cut down. 677 00:41:10,420 --> 00:41:14,630 The thin layer of top soil has been irreversibly damaged. 678 00:41:14,630 --> 00:41:18,580 Despite this, the exploitation for profit continues. 679 00:41:18,580 --> 00:41:23,184 (melancholy music) 680 00:41:23,184 --> 00:41:25,477 Joal Miralez writes books about the fascinating biodiversity 681 00:41:25,477 --> 00:41:29,550 of the Amazon basin. 682 00:41:29,550 --> 00:41:31,350 He hopes to open people's eyes 683 00:41:31,350 --> 00:41:33,160 to the natural treasure that they are putting at risk. 684 00:41:33,160 --> 00:41:36,960 Deforestation is the result of cattle ranching, 685 00:41:36,960 --> 00:41:40,560 intensive agriculture, especially for soy, 686 00:41:40,560 --> 00:41:44,460 but also maize, corn. 687 00:41:44,460 --> 00:41:46,250 And that's the consequence that our diets 688 00:41:46,250 --> 00:41:49,340 in the planet is very much based on meat. 689 00:41:49,340 --> 00:41:53,110 If we don't change our diet, that's a planetary diets, 690 00:41:53,110 --> 00:41:56,920 we will have serious climate change, 691 00:41:56,920 --> 00:42:00,610 and of course we lose the Amazon. 692 00:42:00,610 --> 00:42:03,393 (melancholy music) 693 00:42:03,393 --> 00:42:06,310 On Ilha de Marajó, 694 00:42:09,230 --> 00:42:11,050 most of the swamp forest remains practically untouched. 695 00:42:11,050 --> 00:42:15,190 And in those places where there are no buffalo grazing, 696 00:42:15,190 --> 00:42:18,600 the mangroves on the shoreline are still intact. 697 00:42:18,600 --> 00:42:21,983 (insects chirring) 698 00:42:25,856 --> 00:42:28,773 Every day, Sebastian Figueredo and his son take their boat 699 00:42:32,190 --> 00:42:36,630 into the mangrove forest at their doorstep. 700 00:42:36,630 --> 00:42:39,800 They depend on the forest for their income. 701 00:42:39,800 --> 00:42:42,800 Suddenly, they witness a rare sight. 702 00:42:42,800 --> 00:42:45,860 A young panther crossing the river. 703 00:42:45,860 --> 00:42:49,090 These mysterious predators almost always keep out of sight 704 00:42:49,090 --> 00:42:53,340 and they usually only come out at night. 705 00:42:53,340 --> 00:42:55,803 While his son watches the boat, 706 00:43:02,000 --> 00:43:03,900 Sebastian goes in search of crabs. 707 00:43:03,900 --> 00:43:06,640 It's hot, humid, and there are mosquitoes everywhere. 708 00:43:06,640 --> 00:43:11,009 (suspenseful music) 709 00:43:11,009 --> 00:43:14,009 The exposed roots indicate how high the water rises 710 00:43:28,370 --> 00:43:31,680 when the tide comes in. 711 00:43:31,680 --> 00:43:33,400 The Atlantic tides can be clearly felt here, 712 00:43:33,400 --> 00:43:36,510 although it is 40 kilometers from the open sea. 713 00:43:36,510 --> 00:43:39,940 The extreme conditions in the tidal forests have given rise 714 00:43:39,940 --> 00:43:43,620 to a multitude of extraordinary life forms. 715 00:43:43,620 --> 00:43:46,523 Searching for crabs is a laborious process 716 00:44:02,120 --> 00:44:05,400 and there is no guarantee of success. 717 00:44:05,400 --> 00:44:08,070 Nonetheless, it provides Sebastian 718 00:44:08,070 --> 00:44:10,360 with an income of around 200 euros a month. 719 00:44:10,360 --> 00:44:13,313 He never had a chance to go to school, 720 00:44:21,220 --> 00:44:23,960 so he's glad he can support his family 721 00:44:23,960 --> 00:44:26,290 by fishing for the tasty mangrove crabs. 722 00:44:26,290 --> 00:44:29,523 (birds chirping) 723 00:44:29,523 --> 00:44:32,273 At the moment, the crabs aren't much good 724 00:44:39,740 --> 00:44:41,730 because they're molting. 725 00:44:41,730 --> 00:44:42,930 It's difficult to pull them out 726 00:44:44,255 --> 00:44:45,840 because they're more slippery 727 00:44:45,840 --> 00:44:47,950 and it's more difficult to sell them during this phase. 728 00:44:47,950 --> 00:44:50,700 Later on, when they have a new shell, 729 00:44:52,000 --> 00:44:54,300 everything's a bit easier. 730 00:44:54,300 --> 00:44:56,070 I can catch up to 300 a week then, 731 00:44:56,070 --> 00:44:58,263 but it's still not easy. 732 00:44:59,430 --> 00:45:00,830 The restaurants pay us badly, 733 00:45:00,830 --> 00:45:02,870 and sell them at a much higher price. 734 00:45:02,870 --> 00:45:04,763 But when we have a good catch 735 00:45:06,090 --> 00:45:07,490 and can sell them for a good price, I'm happy. 736 00:45:07,490 --> 00:45:09,973 Even today, the majority 737 00:45:15,110 --> 00:45:17,040 of local people get their nutrition 738 00:45:17,040 --> 00:45:18,840 from the fish and crabs in the mangroves. 739 00:45:18,840 --> 00:45:21,493 (awe-inspiring music) 740 00:45:21,493 --> 00:45:24,660 The Amazon estuary lies 741 00:45:37,040 --> 00:45:39,010 on a major migratory route for birds. 742 00:45:39,010 --> 00:45:42,230 Several thousand wading birds from North America 743 00:45:42,230 --> 00:45:45,260 stop over here or stay 744 00:45:45,260 --> 00:45:46,900 for the duration of the northern winter. 745 00:45:46,900 --> 00:45:48,983 The mangrove forests 746 00:45:50,450 --> 00:45:51,900 in the delta are also a popular resting place 747 00:45:51,900 --> 00:45:54,960 and nest site for a variety of ibis species. 748 00:45:54,960 --> 00:45:58,263 In the village of Praia dos Pescadores 749 00:46:07,000 --> 00:46:09,660 in the mangrove forest belt of the Bay of Para, 750 00:46:09,660 --> 00:46:13,180 it feels as if time has stopped. 751 00:46:13,180 --> 00:46:15,433 Generations of local people have made a living 752 00:46:16,930 --> 00:46:19,330 from fishing and harvesting the natural riches 753 00:46:19,330 --> 00:46:21,870 of the tropical forest. 754 00:46:21,870 --> 00:46:23,193 The peaceful, cozy fishing village is also a popular getaway 755 00:46:24,700 --> 00:46:28,850 for tourists from Belém. 756 00:46:28,850 --> 00:46:30,853 (boat buzzing) 757 00:46:39,037 --> 00:46:41,620 Leonilda, Zara, and Sebastiana are going to search 758 00:46:44,036 --> 00:46:47,870 for medicinal herbs in the mangrove belt 759 00:46:47,870 --> 00:46:50,350 near the Atlantic, not far from the delta. 760 00:46:50,350 --> 00:46:53,800 (awe-inspiring music) 761 00:46:53,800 --> 00:46:56,967 They go in the morning at low tide, 762 00:46:59,190 --> 00:47:01,320 so they can enter the tidal forest 763 00:47:01,320 --> 00:47:03,170 without getting their feet wet. 764 00:47:03,170 --> 00:47:04,763 A snake bird stalks its prey. 765 00:47:10,180 --> 00:47:13,010 Here, too, the riverbanks support a rich variety 766 00:47:13,010 --> 00:47:16,350 of bird life. 767 00:47:16,350 --> 00:47:17,850 Blue and yellow macaws and hoatzin, 768 00:47:17,850 --> 00:47:20,890 also known as stinkbirds, 769 00:47:20,890 --> 00:47:22,910 warm themselves in the morning sun. 770 00:47:22,910 --> 00:47:24,853 The Amazon region is home 771 00:47:32,250 --> 00:47:34,180 to several hundred species of parrots. 772 00:47:34,180 --> 00:47:37,210 Their diet consists of seeds, fruits, berries, flowers, 773 00:47:37,210 --> 00:47:41,900 and small insects. 774 00:47:41,900 --> 00:47:43,163 In their free time, the three women work 775 00:47:45,270 --> 00:47:47,740 for the non-profit organization, Erva Vita, 776 00:47:47,740 --> 00:47:51,280 which produces and distributes natural remedies. 777 00:47:51,280 --> 00:47:54,698 (women speaking in foreign language) 778 00:47:54,698 --> 00:47:59,115 They gather bark, leaves, and roots. 779 00:48:06,410 --> 00:48:10,110 They draw on the knowledge of their ancestors, 780 00:48:10,110 --> 00:48:13,020 who survived without modern medicine 781 00:48:13,020 --> 00:48:15,140 in the remote coastal forest for centuries. 782 00:48:15,140 --> 00:48:18,033 This plant is called lacris. 783 00:48:36,480 --> 00:48:38,720 When I was a child, 784 00:48:38,720 --> 00:48:40,040 my mother used the milky extract from the leaves 785 00:48:40,040 --> 00:48:42,930 to treat cuts and injuries. 786 00:48:42,930 --> 00:48:45,100 She would drip the liquid onto the wound, 787 00:48:45,100 --> 00:48:48,520 and then it would heal. 788 00:48:48,520 --> 00:48:49,940 The plant is also used to treat rashes, 789 00:48:56,290 --> 00:48:59,010 skin conditions, and painful infections. 790 00:48:59,010 --> 00:49:01,733 The extract prevents itching and help heal wounds. 791 00:49:02,660 --> 00:49:06,123 (awe-inspiring music) 792 00:49:08,719 --> 00:49:12,240 Even here, on the edge of the delta, 793 00:49:12,240 --> 00:49:14,920 in the bay of the small town of Maruda, 794 00:49:14,920 --> 00:49:17,720 the sediment carried by the Amazon colors the water brown. 795 00:49:17,720 --> 00:49:22,690 This shoreline offers a nesting place 796 00:49:22,690 --> 00:49:24,870 for a huge flock of ibises, 797 00:49:24,870 --> 00:49:27,110 among them, the striking red ibis. 798 00:49:27,110 --> 00:49:29,473 They live in the coastal region of Venezuela 799 00:49:30,510 --> 00:49:33,270 and in the Amazon estuary. 800 00:49:33,270 --> 00:49:35,126 (birds shrieking) 801 00:49:35,126 --> 00:49:37,959 (knives thudding) 802 00:49:44,305 --> 00:49:47,138 The women from Erva Vita meet once a week 803 00:49:52,030 --> 00:49:55,150 to manufacture their products. 804 00:49:55,150 --> 00:49:56,923 Thankfully, there are lots 805 00:49:59,770 --> 00:50:00,810 of people who want to buy our products. 806 00:50:00,810 --> 00:50:03,530 They pass by to say hello and buy things. 807 00:50:03,530 --> 00:50:06,840 Many of them come 808 00:50:06,840 --> 00:50:08,050 because they're feeling better and want to say thank you. 809 00:50:08,050 --> 00:50:11,373 They want to make sure we carry on our work, 810 00:50:12,550 --> 00:50:15,780 that we don't stop producing remedies. 811 00:50:15,780 --> 00:50:19,373 They make not only remedies 812 00:50:25,800 --> 00:50:28,270 but cosmetics as well. 813 00:50:28,270 --> 00:50:29,763 After boiling in water, 814 00:50:33,960 --> 00:50:35,660 the plants are used to make herbal shampoo. 815 00:50:35,660 --> 00:50:38,496 (awe-inspiring music) 816 00:50:38,496 --> 00:50:39,520 They dilute the herbal stock 817 00:50:39,520 --> 00:50:41,110 with soapy water and decant it into bottles. 818 00:50:41,110 --> 00:50:45,440 They produce a total of 20 different natural remedies 819 00:50:45,440 --> 00:50:48,300 and cosmetics in their herbal kitchen. 820 00:50:48,300 --> 00:50:50,855 (awe-inspiring music) 821 00:50:50,855 --> 00:50:54,022 Wide, sandy beaches stretch along the Atlantic coast, 822 00:51:15,900 --> 00:51:19,810 east of the delta. 823 00:51:19,810 --> 00:51:21,600 On the coastal Island of Algodoal, 824 00:51:21,600 --> 00:51:24,340 {\an8}tourists and goods are still transported 825 00:51:24,340 --> 00:51:27,280 {\an8}by horse and cart. 826 00:51:27,280 --> 00:51:28,493 The Amazon Delta remains a fascinating 827 00:51:30,210 --> 00:51:33,440 and largely unspoiled natural landscape to this day. 828 00:51:33,440 --> 00:51:37,799 (awe-inspiring music) 62687

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