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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:02,230 --> 00:00:03,710 (bright airy music) 2 00:00:03,710 --> 00:00:05,720 between the great deserts to the east 3 00:00:05,720 --> 00:00:08,370 and the Zagros mountains to the west 4 00:00:08,370 --> 00:00:11,373 lies the former royal city of Isfahan. 5 00:00:13,490 --> 00:00:16,610 Almost nowhere else has the cultural heritage of Persia 6 00:00:16,610 --> 00:00:19,300 remain so vibrant as in this city 7 00:00:19,300 --> 00:00:20,733 on the Zayandeh River. 8 00:00:25,240 --> 00:00:26,850 A young generation is trying 9 00:00:26,850 --> 00:00:29,200 not only to preserve their city's legacy 10 00:00:30,100 --> 00:00:32,790 but also to make a living from it. 11 00:00:32,790 --> 00:00:34,133 It's a big challenge. 12 00:00:36,230 --> 00:00:40,090 But if you can make it in Isfahan, you can make it anywhere. 13 00:00:40,090 --> 00:00:42,503 At least according to the natives. 14 00:00:43,761 --> 00:00:46,678 {\an8}(light airy music) 15 00:00:57,570 --> 00:00:59,570 30-year-old Shanti Ghafarian 16 00:00:59,570 --> 00:01:02,343 has just opened his first shop in the city center. 17 00:01:03,550 --> 00:01:05,663 He's a third-generation carpet merchant. 18 00:01:16,730 --> 00:01:18,140 [Shanti Interpreter] As a little boy, 19 00:01:18,140 --> 00:01:21,230 I always came home from school to my father's carpet shop. 20 00:01:21,230 --> 00:01:22,483 It was right nearby. 21 00:01:26,775 --> 00:01:29,660 And I wanted to learn all about carpets from him, 22 00:01:29,660 --> 00:01:33,353 how they're woven, where they come from and so on. 23 00:01:37,500 --> 00:01:38,860 Following commercial training 24 00:01:38,860 --> 00:01:42,740 and business studies, Shanti is now his own boss 25 00:01:42,740 --> 00:01:44,403 and employs two workers. 26 00:01:46,420 --> 00:01:48,473 But today they're keeping him waiting. 27 00:01:50,456 --> 00:01:52,956 (phone calls) 28 00:01:55,635 --> 00:01:56,650 [Shanti Interpreter] Hello, Ali. 29 00:01:56,650 --> 00:01:57,897 Good morning. 30 00:01:57,897 --> 00:01:58,914 [Shanti Interpreter] When are you coming? 31 00:01:58,914 --> 00:02:00,087 What? Hello? 32 00:02:00,087 --> 00:02:01,800 [Shanti Interpreter] Right. Hello? 33 00:02:01,800 --> 00:02:03,400 I just asked when you're coming. 34 00:02:05,700 --> 00:02:08,010 I'll be there in five minutes. 35 00:02:08,010 --> 00:02:09,730 I can't hear you very well. 36 00:02:09,730 --> 00:02:11,090 [Shanti Interpreter] Right? Okay. 37 00:02:11,090 --> 00:02:12,133 Please come quickly. 38 00:02:13,980 --> 00:02:14,813 Hurry it up. 39 00:02:16,600 --> 00:02:18,733 Yes, I will. Bye. 40 00:02:20,680 --> 00:02:22,430 Employee Ali turns up. 41 00:02:26,580 --> 00:02:28,623 And now Milad rolls in as well. 42 00:02:30,267 --> 00:02:31,351 [Shanti Interpreter] Hey, Milad. 43 00:02:31,351 --> 00:02:33,153 [Milad Interpreter] I'm still asleep. 44 00:02:33,153 --> 00:02:35,133 [Shanti Interpreter] Oh no. You don't say. 45 00:02:38,800 --> 00:02:41,600 Milad, help Ali with a ladder. 46 00:02:41,600 --> 00:02:43,650 I'm going to quickly finish this up here. 47 00:02:52,480 --> 00:02:56,040 My father warned me: "This shop will rule your life 48 00:02:56,040 --> 00:02:57,617 and take up all your time." 49 00:02:59,011 --> 00:03:00,261 And that's what happened. 50 00:03:01,330 --> 00:03:03,163 I have a 16-hour workday. 51 00:03:05,020 --> 00:03:06,920 I'm in the shop more than I'm at home. 52 00:03:12,598 --> 00:03:14,460 Shanti's shop is open daily 53 00:03:14,460 --> 00:03:16,783 from 9:00 AM to 11:00 PM. 54 00:03:22,518 --> 00:03:23,910 [Shanti Interpreter] The customers who come at night 55 00:03:23,910 --> 00:03:25,760 are especially temperamental. 56 00:03:25,760 --> 00:03:27,710 They say, we have to think about it. 57 00:03:27,710 --> 00:03:28,963 We'll come back tomorrow. 58 00:03:30,190 --> 00:03:33,070 By then we'll have unrolled more than 50 carpets. 59 00:03:33,070 --> 00:03:36,370 And every single one of them weighs four or five kilos. 60 00:03:36,370 --> 00:03:38,320 Yesterday, we had a customer like that. 61 00:03:38,320 --> 00:03:40,750 We showed him one carpet after another, 62 00:03:40,750 --> 00:03:42,733 and then he left without buying one. 63 00:03:44,340 --> 00:03:46,840 Maybe water will bring a bit of luck. 64 00:03:48,420 --> 00:03:50,650 The daily opening of the shop is a ritual 65 00:03:50,650 --> 00:03:53,170 that bazaarees in Isfahan celebrate 66 00:03:53,170 --> 00:03:55,163 as they do all over Iran. 67 00:04:01,257 --> 00:04:03,040 [Shanti Interpreter] The owner of every shop, 68 00:04:03,040 --> 00:04:04,670 including the bookstore, 69 00:04:04,670 --> 00:04:06,520 pours water in front of his business. 70 00:04:08,970 --> 00:04:11,120 Water is like a sacred light 71 00:04:11,120 --> 00:04:13,220 everyone wants to bless his business with. 72 00:04:16,290 --> 00:04:18,650 We learn this from our parents: 73 00:04:18,650 --> 00:04:21,323 sweep, bless and trust in God. 74 00:04:23,680 --> 00:04:25,920 Everyone does it in in his own way. 75 00:04:25,920 --> 00:04:28,020 I have nothing else on hand at the moment. 76 00:04:29,748 --> 00:04:32,581 (Shanti laughing) 77 00:04:35,060 --> 00:04:36,410 He doesn't have to wait long 78 00:04:36,410 --> 00:04:37,793 for the first customers. 79 00:04:40,780 --> 00:04:44,060 Shanti has to turn over about 3,000 euros per month 80 00:04:44,060 --> 00:04:47,950 to cover ongoing expenses like rent and salaries. 81 00:04:47,950 --> 00:04:50,393 But the carpet business has become harder. 82 00:04:51,410 --> 00:04:54,593 Cheap competition from East Asia makes sales difficult. 83 00:04:57,400 --> 00:05:00,770 People think long and hard before spending five, 84 00:05:00,770 --> 00:05:03,763 10 or 20,000 euros on a carpet. 85 00:05:07,939 --> 00:05:09,670 [Shanti Interpreter] For this job, you need a big heart 86 00:05:09,670 --> 00:05:10,893 and lots of patience. 87 00:05:13,340 --> 00:05:14,580 It's not like a supermarket 88 00:05:14,580 --> 00:05:18,623 that sells candy to kids every day, no. 89 00:05:21,300 --> 00:05:23,050 Shanti has put a lot of things 90 00:05:23,050 --> 00:05:26,520 on the back burner while he seeks professional success. 91 00:05:26,520 --> 00:05:28,840 The 30 year old simply doesn't have enough time 92 00:05:28,840 --> 00:05:31,093 for family, friends, or hobbies. 93 00:05:35,440 --> 00:05:38,350 Like many Iranians, Shanti sees the relationship 94 00:05:38,350 --> 00:05:40,773 between belief and business pragmatically. 95 00:05:41,880 --> 00:05:43,800 He doesn't go into a mosque. 96 00:05:43,800 --> 00:05:46,170 The little carpet stock room is sufficient for him 97 00:05:46,170 --> 00:05:47,623 to practice his faith. 98 00:06:01,457 --> 00:06:04,290 (elevator hisses) 99 00:06:13,690 --> 00:06:15,730 A group of French people has found their way 100 00:06:15,730 --> 00:06:17,620 to Shanti's shop. 101 00:06:17,620 --> 00:06:19,590 Together with Kerman and Tabriz, 102 00:06:19,590 --> 00:06:23,070 Isfahan is one of the largest weaving centers in Iran. 103 00:06:23,070 --> 00:06:25,710 For many travelers, the visit to a carpet shop 104 00:06:25,710 --> 00:06:27,493 is part of the itinerary. 105 00:06:32,340 --> 00:06:35,530 Tourists are important customers for Shanti, 106 00:06:35,530 --> 00:06:39,203 many are bargain hunters, but quality has its price. 107 00:06:40,880 --> 00:06:43,380 (light music) 108 00:06:46,030 --> 00:06:48,100 You definitely won't be successful, 109 00:06:48,100 --> 00:06:49,550 if you're not passionate, 110 00:06:49,550 --> 00:06:52,500 even if the chances of selling something today are minimal. 111 00:07:00,121 --> 00:07:02,310 [Shanti Interpreter] It's very important to me 112 00:07:02,310 --> 00:07:04,860 to spread out real carpets in front of my customers 113 00:07:06,260 --> 00:07:08,763 and not just show them a catalog with photos. 114 00:07:13,200 --> 00:07:15,770 Still he can't completely convince them. 115 00:07:15,770 --> 00:07:17,863 The French people want to think about it. 116 00:07:20,260 --> 00:07:22,910 Visitors don't only come to the fairytale city 117 00:07:22,910 --> 00:07:25,423 on the Zayandeh River for the woven art. 118 00:07:26,440 --> 00:07:28,990 The 33 arch Si-o-se-pol Bridge 119 00:07:28,990 --> 00:07:30,570 on the river's northern section 120 00:07:30,570 --> 00:07:33,920 and the Khajoo Bridge on the southern section 121 00:07:33,920 --> 00:07:36,060 are among the city's landmarks. 122 00:07:36,060 --> 00:07:38,663 They're inviting places to spend some time. 123 00:07:40,760 --> 00:07:43,210 Naqsh-e Jahan Square in the city center 124 00:07:43,210 --> 00:07:46,770 is the symbolic embodiment of Persian high culture. 125 00:07:46,770 --> 00:07:50,430 You can see why residents of Isfahan refer to their city 126 00:07:50,430 --> 00:07:52,133 as the sky blue pearl. 127 00:07:58,490 --> 00:08:01,870 In the 16th century Shah Abbas resettled artists 128 00:08:01,870 --> 00:08:05,240 and craftsmen from throughout the land in Isfahan: 129 00:08:05,240 --> 00:08:09,500 Persians, Arabs and Jews all helped transform Isfahan 130 00:08:09,500 --> 00:08:11,113 into an Oriental Dream. 131 00:08:15,170 --> 00:08:16,980 The Christian Armenian community 132 00:08:16,980 --> 00:08:19,383 also has a long tradition in Isfahan. 133 00:08:21,260 --> 00:08:23,130 The Vank Cathedral is evidence 134 00:08:23,130 --> 00:08:25,553 of the city's cosmopolitan atmosphere. 135 00:08:27,153 --> 00:08:30,320 (light pensive music) 136 00:08:42,170 --> 00:08:46,500 It's late evening, a day without a single sale 137 00:08:46,500 --> 00:08:48,063 is ending at Shanti's. 138 00:08:50,370 --> 00:08:51,650 In just a few hours 139 00:08:51,650 --> 00:08:53,943 he will begin recruiting customers again. 140 00:08:55,070 --> 00:08:56,323 He rarely sleeps much. 141 00:09:12,320 --> 00:09:16,653 Next morning, the city gets ready for a new day. 142 00:09:18,400 --> 00:09:20,650 Around two and a half million residents 143 00:09:20,650 --> 00:09:22,560 live in Isfahan today. 144 00:09:22,560 --> 00:09:24,240 Like many young Iranians, 145 00:09:24,240 --> 00:09:26,430 Shanti still lives with his parents. 146 00:09:26,430 --> 00:09:27,780 His strictly religious mother 147 00:09:27,780 --> 00:09:29,510 leaves it to her husband Rameen 148 00:09:29,510 --> 00:09:31,883 to represent the family to outsiders. 149 00:09:35,245 --> 00:09:36,460 [Rameen Interpreter] We Iranian fathers 150 00:09:36,460 --> 00:09:39,693 worry about the future of our children our whole lives long. 151 00:09:40,590 --> 00:09:42,823 Are they successful? Are they independent? 152 00:09:43,830 --> 00:09:45,780 I wish for a good life for my children. 153 00:09:52,350 --> 00:09:53,730 Shanti's older siblings 154 00:09:53,730 --> 00:09:55,810 have already moved away from home. 155 00:09:55,810 --> 00:09:58,383 He still relies on his parents' support. 156 00:10:03,160 --> 00:10:05,070 [Rameen Interpreter] We taught him to walk. 157 00:10:05,070 --> 00:10:07,313 Now we have to teach him to be independent, 158 00:10:08,260 --> 00:10:12,730 but in the Iranian manner, not like Europeans or Americans 159 00:10:12,730 --> 00:10:15,980 who just separate from their children when they're 18. 160 00:10:15,980 --> 00:10:19,123 In Iran we watch over our children our entire lives. 161 00:10:22,860 --> 00:10:26,333 At 68, he now has enough time to do so. 162 00:10:28,212 --> 00:10:30,712 (light music) 163 00:10:33,210 --> 00:10:35,540 After 40 years in the carpet business, 164 00:10:35,540 --> 00:10:38,560 he can afford to take things a little easier today 165 00:10:38,560 --> 00:10:42,913 and focus on his second greatest passion: his flowers. 166 00:10:47,160 --> 00:10:50,323 But the father's concern for his children keeps him busy. 167 00:10:53,914 --> 00:10:55,470 [Rameen Interpreter] My duties don't just allow me 168 00:10:55,470 --> 00:10:58,973 to sit at home and busy myself with one thing or another. 169 00:11:00,560 --> 00:11:03,100 I go to the Bazaar every day 170 00:11:03,100 --> 00:11:05,813 and I do what I can to secure my children's future. 171 00:11:15,850 --> 00:11:18,050 As the head of an old Isfahan family, 172 00:11:18,050 --> 00:11:22,193 Rameen Ghafarian also has social responsibilities. 173 00:11:24,990 --> 00:11:27,930 A greeting here, a chat there, 174 00:11:27,930 --> 00:11:31,123 his daily route to the bazaar is a social leeway. 175 00:11:33,264 --> 00:11:37,931 (people chattering in foreign language) 176 00:11:39,540 --> 00:11:42,673 The gentleman of the old school has never been to Europe, 177 00:11:43,535 --> 00:11:46,593 but he thinks he knows the difference between it and Iran. 178 00:11:50,026 --> 00:11:51,130 [Rameen Interpreter] We have many friends 179 00:11:51,130 --> 00:11:52,928 and relatives in Isfahan 180 00:11:52,928 --> 00:11:55,778 and we must cultivate our relationships with one another. 181 00:11:56,860 --> 00:11:59,900 Everyone here in our district knows my first name, 182 00:11:59,900 --> 00:12:01,593 from bazaarees to bakers. 183 00:12:03,170 --> 00:12:04,900 That's the way it is here. 184 00:12:04,900 --> 00:12:07,123 We greet each other and ask how it's going. 185 00:12:08,090 --> 00:12:11,373 Not like in Europe, where everybody just lives for himself. 186 00:12:16,820 --> 00:12:18,790 The cultivation of relationships 187 00:12:18,790 --> 00:12:20,960 and contacts takes time. 188 00:12:20,960 --> 00:12:25,303 Ghafarian senior only reaches his own shop by around midday. 189 00:12:26,200 --> 00:12:29,293 At first glance, it's very different from his son's shop. 190 00:12:30,140 --> 00:12:33,300 There are photos rather than physical merchandise 191 00:12:33,300 --> 00:12:35,280 and hardly any decoration. 192 00:12:35,280 --> 00:12:38,210 Customers who come to him know what they want. 193 00:12:38,210 --> 00:12:40,203 What counts is the price. 194 00:12:41,185 --> 00:12:44,352 (light playful music) 195 00:12:49,964 --> 00:12:52,637 [Customer Interpreter] Can you make it less expensive? 196 00:12:52,637 --> 00:12:54,653 [Rameen Interpreter] Unfortunately, my hands are tied. 197 00:12:56,066 --> 00:12:58,068 [Customer Interpreter] Oh, come on. 198 00:12:58,068 --> 00:13:00,797 [Rameen Interpreter] Let's see now. 199 00:13:00,797 --> 00:13:02,331 How's this? 200 00:13:02,331 --> 00:13:05,248 [Customer Interpreter] Yes. Okay. 201 00:13:06,650 --> 00:13:07,533 Many thanks. 202 00:13:08,459 --> 00:13:11,491 [Rameen Interpreter] Goodbye. 203 00:13:11,491 --> 00:13:12,324 [Shanti Interpreter] Carpet dealing 204 00:13:12,324 --> 00:13:13,973 is a very traditional business. 205 00:13:14,830 --> 00:13:18,680 The old carpet merchants don't even talk to their customers. 206 00:13:18,680 --> 00:13:21,090 We young ones are completely different. 207 00:13:21,090 --> 00:13:23,940 We're much more open also in our dealings with customers. 208 00:13:24,970 --> 00:13:28,320 And village-made carpet, it doesn't have any pattern. 209 00:13:28,320 --> 00:13:30,910 It's made by imagination of woman, 210 00:13:30,910 --> 00:13:33,040 everything she has in her mind, 211 00:13:33,040 --> 00:13:35,840 she translate to some symbol, to some motif. 212 00:13:35,840 --> 00:13:37,190 And then she made a carpet. 213 00:13:38,700 --> 00:13:40,690 Shanti's sales strategy is tailored 214 00:13:40,690 --> 00:13:43,283 to his largely European customer base. 215 00:13:46,029 --> 00:13:48,743 He sells not only carpets, but stories. 216 00:13:51,560 --> 00:13:53,880 I can tell you. If it's made by (indistinct), 217 00:13:53,880 --> 00:13:55,890 it's 144 foot. 218 00:13:55,890 --> 00:13:59,083 Designer of this one is a famous by foot of elephant. 219 00:14:01,960 --> 00:14:04,630 In Iran, we don't have any elephants. 220 00:14:04,630 --> 00:14:06,360 It's back to the history of Iran. 221 00:14:06,360 --> 00:14:10,730 When King of Iran Nader Shah attacked India, 222 00:14:10,730 --> 00:14:12,240 he left Iran with a horse, 223 00:14:12,240 --> 00:14:14,690 but they said when he (indistinct) in Isfahan, 224 00:14:14,690 --> 00:14:16,500 he backed with elephant to here. 225 00:14:16,500 --> 00:14:18,610 From that time, foot of elephant 226 00:14:18,610 --> 00:14:21,648 is getting symbol of victory, is getting symbol of hero. 227 00:14:21,648 --> 00:14:25,314 (Shanti speaks in foreign language) 228 00:14:25,314 --> 00:14:27,363 [Shanti Interpreter] It's like with a piece of pizza, 229 00:14:28,570 --> 00:14:32,586 once they've tasted some, they can't stop, 230 00:14:32,586 --> 00:14:34,123 and they want the whole pizza. 231 00:14:37,730 --> 00:14:39,793 They keep tasting and tasting. 232 00:14:41,374 --> 00:14:42,430 (group applauds) 233 00:14:42,430 --> 00:14:43,980 That's the theory. 234 00:14:45,260 --> 00:14:48,440 But the practice, unfortunately, looks different. 235 00:14:48,440 --> 00:14:51,283 Shanti hasn't managed to sell a single carpet. 236 00:14:52,750 --> 00:14:55,557 He has no good news for father Rameen. 237 00:15:08,208 --> 00:15:09,041 [Rameen Interpreter] Hello. 238 00:15:09,041 --> 00:15:10,593 And? How was it? 239 00:15:12,506 --> 00:15:14,280 [Shanti Interpreter] Well, there were some people here, 240 00:15:14,280 --> 00:15:17,033 but they just looked and couldn't decide. 241 00:15:18,920 --> 00:15:20,960 These Germans are always like that. 242 00:15:20,960 --> 00:15:24,550 They come, look and say, they're not sure. 243 00:15:24,550 --> 00:15:25,803 And they might come back. 244 00:15:26,760 --> 00:15:28,483 Nothing in particular. The usual. 245 00:15:34,260 --> 00:15:36,560 Success looks different. 246 00:15:36,560 --> 00:15:38,720 But the Ghafarian family has been active 247 00:15:38,720 --> 00:15:41,460 in the carpet business for three generations 248 00:15:41,460 --> 00:15:43,393 and they aren't easily perturbed. 249 00:15:47,057 --> 00:15:48,950 [Rameen Interpreter] Every profession requires patience. 250 00:15:48,950 --> 00:15:51,563 And of course, also a good instinct and knowledge. 251 00:15:52,590 --> 00:15:55,500 Since he possesses both, he can be successful. 252 00:15:55,500 --> 00:15:58,170 There's a great deal of value in the carpet business. 253 00:15:58,170 --> 00:16:00,020 And I still see a great future in it. 254 00:16:05,440 --> 00:16:06,950 A great future. 255 00:16:06,950 --> 00:16:10,630 At least Shanti seems to have found one in his private life. 256 00:16:14,630 --> 00:16:18,060 He's been engaged to 29-year-old Nina Delshakaste 257 00:16:18,060 --> 00:16:19,890 for five months. 258 00:16:19,890 --> 00:16:23,773 Like Shanti, she comes from a reputable Isfahan family. 259 00:16:29,587 --> 00:16:30,870 [Shanti Interpreter] One of my close friends 260 00:16:30,870 --> 00:16:32,403 introduced me to Nina. 261 00:16:38,980 --> 00:16:41,943 One day they came together to the carpet shop, 262 00:16:42,860 --> 00:16:44,460 where I was working at the time. 263 00:16:52,090 --> 00:16:56,667 Later, my friend said to me, "Did you see that woman?" 264 00:16:56,667 --> 00:16:58,373 "You'd be a really good couple. 265 00:16:59,644 --> 00:17:04,061 (Shanti speaks in foreign language) 266 00:17:07,940 --> 00:17:11,700 If you want to marry her, I can introduce you." 267 00:17:11,700 --> 00:17:16,033 (Shanti speaks in foreign language) 268 00:17:21,100 --> 00:17:25,303 I thought about it briefly, then said, okay. 269 00:17:28,781 --> 00:17:31,280 It was unbelievable. 270 00:17:31,280 --> 00:17:33,340 Since our first conversation, 271 00:17:33,340 --> 00:17:35,390 I had the feeling I've known her forever. 272 00:17:40,538 --> 00:17:43,195 And it was completely uncomplicated. 273 00:17:43,195 --> 00:17:45,003 And soon we trusted each other. 274 00:17:46,130 --> 00:17:50,463 (Shanti speaks in foreign language) 275 00:17:53,500 --> 00:17:56,760 Two months later, my parents already knew, 276 00:17:56,760 --> 00:17:58,663 and Nina's mother knew about us, too. 277 00:18:01,390 --> 00:18:03,030 But not her father. 278 00:18:03,030 --> 00:18:04,680 He would have gone for my throat. 279 00:18:10,250 --> 00:18:12,690 By now the couple also has the blessing 280 00:18:12,690 --> 00:18:15,563 of Nina's father and they want to marry. 281 00:18:19,290 --> 00:18:21,540 But they don't have much time for each other. 282 00:18:24,487 --> 00:18:29,487 (lighthearted music) (group laughing) 283 00:18:35,169 --> 00:18:37,300 [Nina Interpreter] Okay, Shanti, I'm leaving again. 284 00:18:37,300 --> 00:18:38,793 Bye. Take care. 285 00:18:42,500 --> 00:18:43,680 Societal roles 286 00:18:43,680 --> 00:18:46,550 are traditionally assigned in Iran. 287 00:18:46,550 --> 00:18:49,930 Shanty's expected to stand on his own two feet financially 288 00:18:49,930 --> 00:18:51,920 before he marries Nina. 289 00:18:51,920 --> 00:18:54,633 The young entrepreneur is far from that point. 290 00:19:00,340 --> 00:19:02,460 The Qeysarie Gate at the entrance 291 00:19:02,460 --> 00:19:04,653 to the Old Bazaar in Isfahan. 292 00:19:06,660 --> 00:19:09,230 Since the city's heyday in the 17th century, 293 00:19:09,230 --> 00:19:11,960 many Persian craftsman have had their workshops 294 00:19:11,960 --> 00:19:12,893 and shops here. 295 00:19:13,850 --> 00:19:15,250 Shanti has an appointment 296 00:19:15,250 --> 00:19:18,453 with a Grandmaster of the Isfahan Carpet Guild. 297 00:19:21,450 --> 00:19:25,200 Faizullah Hariri is known far beyond the city's borders 298 00:19:25,200 --> 00:19:27,980 for his high quality materials and designs. 299 00:19:30,228 --> 00:19:34,478 (men speaking in foreign language) 300 00:19:37,570 --> 00:19:41,700 Father Rameen has facilitated this exclusive contact. 301 00:19:41,700 --> 00:19:44,053 There are many beautiful carpets in Isfahan, 302 00:19:45,050 --> 00:19:49,333 but only a few of a real Persian rug crafted by Hariri. 303 00:19:51,796 --> 00:19:56,046 (men speaking in foreign language) 304 00:20:00,078 --> 00:20:02,280 [Shanti Interpreter] We're not talking about my order, 305 00:20:02,280 --> 00:20:05,160 but about one from a well-informed customer. 306 00:20:05,160 --> 00:20:07,040 Such customers want something special 307 00:20:08,110 --> 00:20:10,350 and if they want something special, 308 00:20:10,350 --> 00:20:12,043 you have to find a famous master. 309 00:20:12,930 --> 00:20:14,440 The customer must be convinced 310 00:20:14,440 --> 00:20:16,123 his order is in the right hands. 311 00:20:17,440 --> 00:20:19,720 If you mentioned Hariri's name, 312 00:20:19,720 --> 00:20:22,434 of course, that has great significance. 313 00:20:22,434 --> 00:20:24,600 Hariri is really a big name. 314 00:20:27,619 --> 00:20:31,869 (men speaking in foreign language) 315 00:20:38,630 --> 00:20:42,700 Modern computers with design software are by now a given, 316 00:20:42,700 --> 00:20:45,973 even in such companies with long standing traditions. 317 00:20:51,259 --> 00:20:54,180 [Faizullah Interpreter] I have three sons 318 00:20:54,180 --> 00:20:57,300 and it's an honor for me to work with them. 319 00:20:57,300 --> 00:20:59,683 They're very interested in my work. 320 00:21:01,780 --> 00:21:04,253 They're trying to do new things and modernize, 321 00:21:06,960 --> 00:21:09,430 but they also take care to maintain 322 00:21:09,430 --> 00:21:11,573 the good reputation of their forefathers. 323 00:21:21,294 --> 00:21:23,570 Though the sons provide the family business 324 00:21:23,570 --> 00:21:24,973 with fresh inspiration, 325 00:21:26,260 --> 00:21:29,180 Hariri Sr. will not let anyone interfere 326 00:21:29,180 --> 00:21:30,573 when it comes to colors. 327 00:21:33,877 --> 00:21:35,390 [Faizullah Interpreter] Color is the most important 328 00:21:35,390 --> 00:21:37,173 element in the entire process. 329 00:21:38,830 --> 00:21:41,853 Color is the first thing I consider before I even began. 330 00:21:44,170 --> 00:21:45,540 The question is which colors 331 00:21:45,540 --> 00:21:47,323 are the most pleasing to my eyes. 332 00:21:50,290 --> 00:21:53,170 Hariri uses only plant-based colors 333 00:21:53,170 --> 00:21:54,803 and natural materials. 334 00:21:57,090 --> 00:22:00,902 Handling them requires a great deal of experience. 335 00:22:00,902 --> 00:22:05,485 (Faizullah speaks in foreign language) 336 00:22:07,987 --> 00:22:10,250 [Faizullah Interpreter] The wool of the sheep from Isfahan 337 00:22:10,250 --> 00:22:12,600 is very different from one from another region. 338 00:22:15,570 --> 00:22:17,370 Even if you dye them with the same dye, 339 00:22:17,370 --> 00:22:18,923 you never get the same result. 340 00:22:21,150 --> 00:22:23,260 That's why it's very important to us 341 00:22:23,260 --> 00:22:25,103 that the sheep come from Isfahan. 342 00:22:30,490 --> 00:22:32,290 Depending on the material, 343 00:22:32,290 --> 00:22:35,080 a carpet can consist of more than a million knots 344 00:22:35,080 --> 00:22:36,103 per square meter. 345 00:22:40,590 --> 00:22:43,470 8,000 knots a day is the daily workload 346 00:22:43,470 --> 00:22:44,883 of an experience weaver. 347 00:22:48,620 --> 00:22:51,023 And each not must fit perfectly. 348 00:23:00,237 --> 00:23:01,810 [Faizullah Interpreter] You see, everything is numbered 349 00:23:01,810 --> 00:23:02,710 according to plan. 350 00:23:03,637 --> 00:23:05,280 [Shanti Interpreter] Yes, exactly. 351 00:23:05,280 --> 00:23:07,873 [Faizullah Interpreter] Everything is precisely knotted. 352 00:23:09,590 --> 00:23:13,173 If the ladies make a mistake, the carpet won't be beautiful. 353 00:23:18,900 --> 00:23:22,510 Even experienced weavers, like Maryam Mailizi, 354 00:23:22,510 --> 00:23:26,023 often work on complicated works of art for years. 355 00:23:32,908 --> 00:23:35,633 (Maryam speaks in foreign language) 356 00:23:35,633 --> 00:23:36,930 [Maryam Interpreter] I followed in the footsteps 357 00:23:36,930 --> 00:23:38,253 of my forebears. 358 00:23:39,220 --> 00:23:40,980 My mother wove carpets 359 00:23:40,980 --> 00:23:44,693 and I started in her workshop when I was eight. 360 00:23:46,220 --> 00:23:48,430 They made very large carpets there. 361 00:23:48,430 --> 00:23:49,530 And I had lots of fun. 362 00:23:51,610 --> 00:23:52,960 I thought at the time, 363 00:23:52,960 --> 00:23:56,773 that that was the only proper work for women. 364 00:23:59,563 --> 00:24:01,843 Of course it's hard work, 365 00:24:02,680 --> 00:24:07,680 but if you love your work, you tolerate these difficulties. 366 00:24:12,822 --> 00:24:16,853 The work can lead to troubles with your eyes and back. 367 00:24:18,943 --> 00:24:21,253 Everything has its difficulties, 368 00:24:22,380 --> 00:24:25,407 but if you do it with love, you can endure it. 369 00:24:30,920 --> 00:24:33,170 Today, fewer and fewer women 370 00:24:33,170 --> 00:24:35,140 choose to be weavers. 371 00:24:35,140 --> 00:24:37,620 Many young Iranian women want to study 372 00:24:37,620 --> 00:24:39,040 and look for new challenges 373 00:24:39,040 --> 00:24:41,563 outside the traditional gender roles. 374 00:24:44,490 --> 00:24:46,610 It's a topic that Nina Delshakaste 375 00:24:46,610 --> 00:24:50,080 and her mother Mohad hash out almost daily. 376 00:24:50,080 --> 00:24:53,750 Nina's father works in the oil industry and is rarely home. 377 00:24:53,750 --> 00:24:56,880 56 year old Mohad is in charge of the household 378 00:24:56,880 --> 00:24:59,513 and manages the education of their two children. 379 00:25:00,610 --> 00:25:03,183 [Mohad Interpreter] The door buzzed, see who it is. 380 00:25:05,450 --> 00:25:07,460 Nina's studied nutritional science 381 00:25:07,460 --> 00:25:08,710 and is looking for a job. 382 00:25:11,410 --> 00:25:12,830 Her little sister, Nikta, 383 00:25:12,830 --> 00:25:15,173 also wants to study at a university. 384 00:25:24,400 --> 00:25:25,960 They both still live at home 385 00:25:25,960 --> 00:25:29,063 and enjoying the advantages of having a dedicated mother. 386 00:25:35,186 --> 00:25:36,765 [Nikta Interpreter] What did you cook, mama? 387 00:25:36,765 --> 00:25:38,592 [Mohad Interpreter] Rhaini and sabzi polo. 388 00:25:38,592 --> 00:25:40,423 [Nikta Interpreter] No vegetable fritters? 389 00:25:43,254 --> 00:25:45,843 (women speaking in foreign language) 390 00:25:45,843 --> 00:25:47,410 [Mohad Interpreter] The mother is the backbone 391 00:25:47,410 --> 00:25:48,800 of the family. 392 00:25:48,800 --> 00:25:51,923 Not just me, but all Iranian mothers. 393 00:25:54,540 --> 00:25:56,800 I don't know how it is in Europe, 394 00:25:56,800 --> 00:26:00,940 but in our culture the mothers play the most important role. 395 00:26:02,300 --> 00:26:04,510 We're responsible for the children's 396 00:26:04,510 --> 00:26:06,810 good behavior and education. 397 00:26:06,810 --> 00:26:11,043 For that, I have to be as strong as a mountain. 398 00:26:18,250 --> 00:26:21,210 It's important to an Iranian husband 399 00:26:21,210 --> 00:26:23,810 that his wife is a good cook. 400 00:26:23,810 --> 00:26:27,220 If you're a good cook, everything's all right. 401 00:26:27,220 --> 00:26:29,593 If not, he'll get his meals elsewhere. 402 00:26:30,474 --> 00:26:31,660 [Nina Interpreter] Well, hopefully he'll develop 403 00:26:31,660 --> 00:26:32,580 stomach trouble there 404 00:26:32,580 --> 00:26:34,680 and don't feel like eating at all anymore. 405 00:26:37,608 --> 00:26:39,940 [Mohad Interpreter] No. How can you be so mean? 406 00:26:39,940 --> 00:26:43,390 If you love somebody, you should do your best for him 407 00:26:43,390 --> 00:26:45,930 with cooking and other things. 408 00:26:45,930 --> 00:26:48,843 You should always want the best for your husband. 409 00:26:52,037 --> 00:26:53,860 [Nina Interpreter] My generation was born 410 00:26:53,860 --> 00:26:56,503 in a time between the traditional and the modern. 411 00:26:59,160 --> 00:27:02,010 Everyone knows you have to adapt to the time you live in. 412 00:27:03,890 --> 00:27:07,600 Someone like me who has studied and is active for society 413 00:27:07,600 --> 00:27:10,733 can't live completely traditional in the 21st century. 414 00:27:14,454 --> 00:27:17,815 Of course, some things are simply part of our culture. 415 00:27:17,815 --> 00:27:19,215 We can't run away from them. 416 00:27:23,794 --> 00:27:26,210 But sometimes some of the paint peels off traditions 417 00:27:26,210 --> 00:27:28,393 and you can't just ignore that. 418 00:27:29,662 --> 00:27:33,912 (Nina speaks in foreign language) 419 00:27:37,700 --> 00:27:39,810 And sometimes old traditions 420 00:27:39,810 --> 00:27:41,373 get a fresh coat of paint. 421 00:27:43,730 --> 00:27:46,893 Nina is on with a friend Yavari this afternoon. 422 00:27:49,220 --> 00:27:51,930 Yavari wears a chador, the traditional garment 423 00:27:51,930 --> 00:27:54,543 of conservative religious Iranian women. 424 00:27:55,930 --> 00:27:59,370 The 32-year-old Muslim is a mother, housewife, 425 00:27:59,370 --> 00:28:01,683 and captain of the Isfahan polo team. 426 00:28:04,409 --> 00:28:08,826 (Yavari speaks in foreign language) 427 00:28:14,721 --> 00:28:15,554 [Yavari Interpreter] I come here 428 00:28:15,554 --> 00:28:17,590 twice a week for training. 429 00:28:17,590 --> 00:28:19,653 I've loved horses since I was little, 430 00:28:20,560 --> 00:28:22,530 even before I could talk. 431 00:28:22,530 --> 00:28:25,071 My father had to draw horses for me. 432 00:28:25,071 --> 00:28:28,673 My love of horses is rooted deep within me. 433 00:28:31,870 --> 00:28:35,080 In Europe, polo is known as the favorite sport 434 00:28:35,080 --> 00:28:36,970 of the British nobility. 435 00:28:36,970 --> 00:28:39,790 But it comes from ancient Persia 436 00:28:39,790 --> 00:28:43,690 and was originally meant to train the army's riding skills. 437 00:28:43,690 --> 00:28:45,610 It was only in the 19th century 438 00:28:45,610 --> 00:28:48,163 that the game came to England via India. 439 00:28:57,519 --> 00:29:01,360 [Yavari Interpreter] Polo is very dynamic and energetic. 440 00:29:01,360 --> 00:29:05,780 To me, it's modern and traditional at the same time. 441 00:29:05,780 --> 00:29:08,973 Polo ties both things together for me. 442 00:29:11,010 --> 00:29:14,930 Of course, I have to adapt myself to some things, 443 00:29:14,930 --> 00:29:17,373 but I just love the thrill. 444 00:29:18,390 --> 00:29:21,193 That helps me a lot when I play polo. 445 00:29:26,740 --> 00:29:29,440 In Iran, the traditional sport of polo 446 00:29:29,440 --> 00:29:30,740 is enjoying a Renaissance. 447 00:29:36,009 --> 00:29:38,676 (Nina clapping) 448 00:29:40,878 --> 00:29:43,550 [Yavari Interpreter] It's not surprising to people here 449 00:29:43,550 --> 00:29:44,963 that I play polo. 450 00:29:45,998 --> 00:29:47,463 They think it's great. 451 00:29:52,420 --> 00:29:57,050 If we act modestly and tend to our duties 452 00:29:57,050 --> 00:29:58,813 and wear our hijabs correctly, 453 00:29:59,990 --> 00:30:03,950 why should people be opposed or irritated 454 00:30:03,950 --> 00:30:07,153 or think it's strange that we play this sport? 455 00:30:14,817 --> 00:30:17,670 "Seek out a sport that is part of our culture 456 00:30:17,670 --> 00:30:19,817 and help bring polo back to life." 457 00:30:20,970 --> 00:30:23,880 Iranian religious leader Ayatollah Khomeini 458 00:30:23,880 --> 00:30:25,823 is quoted on public banners. 459 00:30:28,767 --> 00:30:31,350 (upbeat music) 460 00:30:34,670 --> 00:30:36,810 In recent years, skateboarders 461 00:30:36,810 --> 00:30:38,993 have enlivened Isfahan's cityscape. 462 00:30:44,010 --> 00:30:49,010 One of them is 27-year-old Nima Ahmadi, a true pioneer. 463 00:30:56,003 --> 00:30:58,200 [Nima Interpreter] My father died a few years ago. 464 00:30:58,200 --> 00:31:00,530 Since then I've lived alone with my mother. 465 00:31:00,530 --> 00:31:02,560 She's always supported me. 466 00:31:02,560 --> 00:31:05,110 Even when we were financially very badly off, 467 00:31:05,110 --> 00:31:07,660 she bought me a new skateboard and she took care of me 468 00:31:07,660 --> 00:31:09,910 when I was in the hospital with broken bones. 469 00:31:14,756 --> 00:31:16,930 The meeting place and training ground 470 00:31:16,930 --> 00:31:19,510 is the plaza in front of Shanti's shop. 471 00:31:19,510 --> 00:31:21,903 Friendships have formed here over the years. 472 00:31:23,774 --> 00:31:25,738 [Shanti Interpreter] Hi, how are you all good. 473 00:31:25,738 --> 00:31:27,151 [Nima Interpreter] Oh good. And you? 474 00:31:27,151 --> 00:31:29,051 [Shanti Interpreter] So far so good. 475 00:31:32,559 --> 00:31:35,690 [Nima Interpreter] This place here was our playground. 476 00:31:35,690 --> 00:31:36,673 We grew up here. 477 00:31:37,800 --> 00:31:39,350 It's like a second home for me. 478 00:31:40,510 --> 00:31:41,823 I meet my friends here. 479 00:31:43,370 --> 00:31:45,413 It's one of the best spots in Isfahan. 480 00:31:47,220 --> 00:31:49,890 Fortunately, the shopkeepers support us 481 00:31:49,890 --> 00:31:51,753 so we can skate here when we want. 482 00:31:59,080 --> 00:32:00,860 Nima meets his friends at a shop 483 00:32:00,860 --> 00:32:02,563 belonging to Shanti's neighbor, 484 00:32:03,480 --> 00:32:07,180 miniature painter Ali Halik, is a fan of the group 485 00:32:07,180 --> 00:32:09,853 and regularly decorates their boards with drawings. 486 00:32:12,920 --> 00:32:16,353 It's a change of pace for the traditionally trained painter. 487 00:32:20,840 --> 00:32:23,440 Done! Wait, I forgot to sign it. 488 00:32:25,550 --> 00:32:27,400 Every picture is unique. 489 00:32:33,160 --> 00:32:34,253 [Skateboarder In Blue] What do I owe you? 490 00:32:34,253 --> 00:32:36,333 No, forget it. It doesn't matter. 491 00:32:37,179 --> 00:32:39,430 [Skateboarder In Light Gray] Thanks. Very nice. 492 00:32:43,372 --> 00:32:45,723 [Nima Interpreter] It was a pleasure. Bye! 493 00:32:48,050 --> 00:32:49,854 Nice to meet you! 494 00:32:49,854 --> 00:32:51,354 It's a pleasure. 495 00:32:58,330 --> 00:32:59,500 Nima and his friends 496 00:32:59,500 --> 00:33:02,383 have not encountered resistance, on the contrary. 497 00:33:05,437 --> 00:33:07,970 [Nima Interpreter] At first, nobody understood 498 00:33:07,970 --> 00:33:09,650 what we were doing. 499 00:33:09,650 --> 00:33:12,573 No one had ever seen a wooden board with wheels before. 500 00:33:16,152 --> 00:33:19,550 They all wanted to know what it was and how it works, 501 00:33:19,550 --> 00:33:21,150 how we get the board in the air. 502 00:33:26,984 --> 00:33:29,880 Then we started showing people how it works, 503 00:33:29,880 --> 00:33:33,040 and right away they were all enthusiastic. 504 00:33:33,040 --> 00:33:34,373 Nobody made fun of us. 505 00:33:38,310 --> 00:33:40,893 (upbeat music) 506 00:33:45,060 --> 00:33:48,950 Today, there are about 30 skaters in Isfahan. 507 00:33:48,950 --> 00:33:52,723 The scene is still small, but they have great ambitions. 508 00:33:56,553 --> 00:33:58,230 [Nima Interpreter] My greatest wish 509 00:33:58,230 --> 00:34:00,633 is to make skateboarding popular in Isfahan. 510 00:34:02,451 --> 00:34:05,890 I definitely want to continue to develop myself further 511 00:34:05,890 --> 00:34:08,410 and hopefully one day, I'll even be able 512 00:34:08,410 --> 00:34:09,660 to make a living from it. 513 00:34:15,300 --> 00:34:17,470 For Nima, skateboarding is more 514 00:34:17,470 --> 00:34:19,423 than just a way to pass the time. 515 00:34:22,435 --> 00:34:25,000 [Nima Interpreter] Skateboarding has helped me a lot. 516 00:34:25,000 --> 00:34:29,110 I've learned a lot about life: to fall down and get back up, 517 00:34:29,110 --> 00:34:30,520 to bounce back. 518 00:34:30,520 --> 00:34:34,223 It still helps me today to assert myself and reach my goals. 519 00:34:35,160 --> 00:34:36,800 In Iran, people have learned 520 00:34:36,800 --> 00:34:40,330 to grasp opportunities to benefit from the small freedoms 521 00:34:40,330 --> 00:34:41,480 to achieve their goals. 522 00:34:50,941 --> 00:34:52,320 [Shanti Interpreter] My parents always told me 523 00:34:52,320 --> 00:34:55,380 what I should do or avoid doing. 524 00:34:55,380 --> 00:34:57,900 They always dictated my behavior. 525 00:34:57,900 --> 00:35:00,300 My family's reputation is at stake. 526 00:35:00,300 --> 00:35:03,300 After all, I'm Ghafarian's grandson. 527 00:35:03,300 --> 00:35:05,663 Everyone in Isfahan knows my grandfather. 528 00:35:09,120 --> 00:35:11,540 So I always had to behave respectfully 529 00:35:11,540 --> 00:35:13,140 and I couldn't step out of line. 530 00:35:15,270 --> 00:35:17,393 That's how it is in a traditional family. 531 00:35:19,220 --> 00:35:20,810 Things continue like that, 532 00:35:20,810 --> 00:35:23,920 and at some point when you're 26 or 27, 533 00:35:23,920 --> 00:35:26,623 you're suddenly an adult and part of this world, 534 00:35:29,390 --> 00:35:30,883 whether you like it or not. 535 00:35:35,770 --> 00:35:37,330 In the south of Isfahan 536 00:35:37,330 --> 00:35:41,083 lies the Takht-e Foulad, the oldest cemetery in the city. 537 00:35:42,050 --> 00:35:43,360 For eight centuries, 538 00:35:43,360 --> 00:35:45,980 the great granddaughters and sons of Isfahan 539 00:35:45,980 --> 00:35:48,223 have found their final resting place here. 540 00:35:49,449 --> 00:35:51,150 In Islamic culture, 541 00:35:51,150 --> 00:35:54,460 the deceased are only wrapped in a shroud for burial. 542 00:35:54,460 --> 00:35:57,160 Their graves point towards Mecca. 543 00:35:57,160 --> 00:35:59,827 (pensive music) 544 00:36:04,740 --> 00:36:06,860 The Ghafarian's ancestors are buried 545 00:36:06,860 --> 00:36:08,363 in one of the mausoleums. 546 00:36:10,650 --> 00:36:13,193 Father and son go there every Thursday. 547 00:36:25,114 --> 00:36:26,110 [Rameen Interpreter] You get a mystic 548 00:36:26,110 --> 00:36:27,503 spiritual feeling here. 549 00:36:28,840 --> 00:36:32,090 This is exactly the reason the Isfahaners come here. 550 00:36:32,090 --> 00:36:33,370 They visit their forefathers 551 00:36:33,370 --> 00:36:35,590 and the city's great personalities, 552 00:36:35,590 --> 00:36:38,400 anticipating their spiritual assistance. 553 00:36:38,400 --> 00:36:40,250 We remember the past when we come here. 554 00:36:40,250 --> 00:36:41,943 So it comes alive for us. 555 00:36:50,988 --> 00:36:52,210 [Shanti Interpreter] Everyone has a memory 556 00:36:52,210 --> 00:36:54,093 of one or more of the deceased, 557 00:36:54,950 --> 00:36:58,673 like a kind of biography of the people, like a book. 558 00:37:00,440 --> 00:37:03,240 You see their faces in your thoughts 559 00:37:03,240 --> 00:37:05,483 and remember all the good things they did. 560 00:37:10,060 --> 00:37:11,340 I find peace in this place 561 00:37:11,340 --> 00:37:14,760 because I know I can find answers to questions 562 00:37:14,760 --> 00:37:19,493 about my own life here if I think about their experiences. 563 00:37:33,350 --> 00:37:35,340 It's early evening. 564 00:37:35,340 --> 00:37:37,950 Twilight casts the city's famous bridges 565 00:37:37,950 --> 00:37:39,503 in a picturesque light. 566 00:37:45,670 --> 00:37:49,390 The weekend in Iran begins on Thursday evening. 567 00:37:49,390 --> 00:37:51,763 Most shops are closed until Saturday. 568 00:37:53,317 --> 00:37:58,053 Isfahan is also a popular destination for Iranian tourists. 569 00:38:01,410 --> 00:38:04,253 Of course, Shanty's store is still open. 570 00:38:05,100 --> 00:38:06,900 He's in the red at the moment 571 00:38:06,900 --> 00:38:10,063 and he hopes customers might stray over in his direction. 572 00:38:14,460 --> 00:38:18,170 Rameen Ghafarian regularly visits the zurkhaneh, 573 00:38:18,170 --> 00:38:20,290 the house of strength. 574 00:38:20,290 --> 00:38:22,020 The zurkhaneh is a men's sport 575 00:38:22,020 --> 00:38:24,670 that goes back to pre-Islamic times. 576 00:38:24,670 --> 00:38:27,810 Even today, these traditional sports clubs 577 00:38:27,810 --> 00:38:31,562 can be found in all the larger Iranian cities. 578 00:38:31,562 --> 00:38:34,970 (man drumming) 579 00:38:34,970 --> 00:38:39,520 The men practice strengths, coordination, and endurance. 580 00:38:39,520 --> 00:38:42,450 The zurkhaneh's master of ceremonies, the morshed, 581 00:38:42,450 --> 00:38:43,523 sets the tone. 582 00:38:46,807 --> 00:38:48,620 [Rameen Interpreter] When I was here for the first time 583 00:38:48,620 --> 00:38:51,840 as a small boy, I was excited about the men in the ring 584 00:38:51,840 --> 00:38:53,680 and the banging of the drum. 585 00:38:53,680 --> 00:38:56,060 I'd never heard anything like it. 586 00:38:56,060 --> 00:38:57,880 I found it very stirring. 587 00:38:57,880 --> 00:39:01,300 And from that moment on, I was fascinated by this sport. 588 00:39:01,300 --> 00:39:03,650 It's a sport you can quickly fall in love with. 589 00:39:05,222 --> 00:39:07,750 (man drumming) 590 00:39:07,750 --> 00:39:09,370 The morshed leads the athletes 591 00:39:09,370 --> 00:39:12,093 through the exercises with drumming and singing. 592 00:39:15,080 --> 00:39:18,713 At the beginning, there are loosening and warmup exercises. 593 00:39:20,520 --> 00:39:23,453 Later, comes endurance and strength training. 594 00:39:24,973 --> 00:39:27,806 (string rattling) 595 00:39:36,300 --> 00:39:39,180 The juggling of clubs weighing up to 10 kilos 596 00:39:39,180 --> 00:39:40,713 requires great skill. 597 00:39:45,920 --> 00:39:48,230 Rameen Ghafarian likes the zurkhaneh 598 00:39:48,230 --> 00:39:51,113 not only because it emphasizes physical culture. 599 00:39:58,734 --> 00:40:00,110 [Rameen Interpreter] Actually this kind of sports 600 00:40:00,110 --> 00:40:03,223 stands for gallantry, generosity, and helpfulness. 601 00:40:05,030 --> 00:40:07,400 These are the virtues which led my forefathers 602 00:40:07,400 --> 00:40:08,573 and me to come here. 603 00:40:10,377 --> 00:40:13,027 And I think these old traditions should be preserved, 604 00:40:14,330 --> 00:40:17,513 just as they were passed down from generation to generation. 605 00:40:21,431 --> 00:40:24,014 (man drumming) 606 00:40:42,488 --> 00:40:45,238 (men applauding) 607 00:40:47,000 --> 00:40:49,417 (calm music) 608 00:40:50,420 --> 00:40:54,153 It's Friday, the Sunday of the Muslim world. 609 00:40:57,450 --> 00:41:02,090 Schools, universities, most stores and government offices 610 00:41:02,090 --> 00:41:03,173 are closed today. 611 00:41:06,000 --> 00:41:09,450 According to the Koran, Friday is the day of gathering, 612 00:41:09,450 --> 00:41:11,293 prayer and refreshment. 613 00:41:12,930 --> 00:41:16,350 In the cities, more and more traditions are changing 614 00:41:16,350 --> 00:41:19,030 and most families enjoy going out to gardens 615 00:41:19,030 --> 00:41:22,203 and the countryside to escape the hectic city life. 616 00:41:29,700 --> 00:41:32,580 Shanti and Nina also decide to go on a picnic 617 00:41:32,580 --> 00:41:34,520 to enrich their body and soul 618 00:41:34,520 --> 00:41:37,720 just before a new week of hard work. 619 00:41:37,720 --> 00:41:40,200 All that's missing is the bread. 620 00:41:40,200 --> 00:41:43,820 Sangak was originally the bread of the Persian army today. 621 00:41:43,820 --> 00:41:46,270 Today, the flat bread baked in wood ovens 622 00:41:46,270 --> 00:41:49,230 is an inherent part of Iranian cooking, 623 00:41:49,230 --> 00:41:52,083 but it tastes best freshly baked. 624 00:41:59,796 --> 00:42:01,010 [Shanti Interpreter] Normally, men go out 625 00:42:01,010 --> 00:42:04,253 on Friday morning to buy bread for their families. 626 00:42:06,450 --> 00:42:08,830 It's especially popular with casseroles 627 00:42:08,830 --> 00:42:12,393 and is definitely the oldest and tastiest food in Iran. 628 00:42:17,610 --> 00:42:19,420 Warm flatbread in hand, 629 00:42:19,420 --> 00:42:22,523 they set out for the south towards Mount Soffeh. 630 00:42:28,300 --> 00:42:31,170 The limestone massive 600 meters high 631 00:42:31,170 --> 00:42:33,810 has been a popular destination for Isfahaners 632 00:42:33,810 --> 00:42:37,423 since cable car started operating here 10 years ago. 633 00:42:38,860 --> 00:42:41,260 Nina and Shanti get in a cabin. 634 00:42:41,260 --> 00:42:44,913 And in just a few minutes, they reach the summit station. 635 00:42:46,440 --> 00:42:49,343 [Nina Interpreter] That guy's totally going crazy. 636 00:42:50,383 --> 00:42:53,216 (Shanti laughing) 637 00:42:59,407 --> 00:43:02,240 (people clapping) 638 00:43:06,730 --> 00:43:09,167 On weekends, many residents of Isfahan 639 00:43:09,167 --> 00:43:12,193 and their families amuse themselves outside of the city. 640 00:43:13,540 --> 00:43:15,740 Although they don't want to be seen on camera, 641 00:43:15,740 --> 00:43:17,585 the fun is audible. 642 00:43:17,585 --> 00:43:20,418 (Shanti laughing) 643 00:43:22,487 --> 00:43:25,404 (people whistling) 644 00:43:29,640 --> 00:43:32,660 In Iran, young couples usually go on a picnic 645 00:43:32,660 --> 00:43:35,420 on their own after getting married. 646 00:43:35,420 --> 00:43:38,670 Fortunately, Nina and Shanti are engaged, 647 00:43:38,670 --> 00:43:41,423 which allows them to go to places on their own. 648 00:43:43,261 --> 00:43:44,903 [Nina Interpreter] Maybe you can treat it. 649 00:43:45,880 --> 00:43:47,280 Maybe it's better like that. 650 00:43:48,917 --> 00:43:51,267 [Shanti Interpreter] What a delicious tomato. 651 00:43:55,109 --> 00:43:59,086 [Nina Interpreter] Shanti, look! There! 652 00:43:59,086 --> 00:44:02,901 [Shanti Interpreter] Wow! (laughing) 653 00:44:02,901 --> 00:44:05,084 (Shanti whistling) 654 00:44:05,084 --> 00:44:07,751 (both laughing) 655 00:44:08,700 --> 00:44:09,533 [Nina Interpreter] Of course we're just 656 00:44:09,533 --> 00:44:10,710 starting our relationship. 657 00:44:12,080 --> 00:44:13,480 We've been engaged for two months. 658 00:44:13,480 --> 00:44:16,080 And of course we'd like to spend more time together. 659 00:44:17,660 --> 00:44:19,543 But it's hard because of his work. 660 00:44:22,000 --> 00:44:24,000 On Friday, we have more time for each other. 661 00:44:24,000 --> 00:44:26,243 During the week, we're not together so much. 662 00:44:33,122 --> 00:44:37,310 [Shanti Interpreter] We want to plan our lives. 663 00:44:37,310 --> 00:44:40,750 So I work a lot and hard 664 00:44:40,750 --> 00:44:43,073 to finance a roof over our heads. 665 00:44:45,310 --> 00:44:48,113 Luckily, Nina leaves me lots of space. 666 00:44:50,950 --> 00:44:52,893 But it's hard to find an apartment, 667 00:44:55,000 --> 00:44:56,763 especially for young people. 668 00:44:59,720 --> 00:45:01,243 Renting isn't easy either. 669 00:45:05,479 --> 00:45:07,180 That's why I'm trying very hard 670 00:45:07,180 --> 00:45:09,933 to achieve a stable livelihood in a year or two. 671 00:45:19,046 --> 00:45:23,463 I want to create stability. Also, to make Nina happy. 672 00:45:28,434 --> 00:45:31,783 The 30 year old set himself ambitious goals: 673 00:45:35,550 --> 00:45:37,240 Nina we'll probably need to do 674 00:45:37,240 --> 00:45:41,000 without her Shanti for a while, since in the future as well 675 00:45:41,000 --> 00:45:43,693 they'll only be able to enjoy Fridays together. 676 00:45:52,372 --> 00:45:54,322 [Shanti Interpreter] One, two, three. 677 00:45:57,330 --> 00:45:58,873 I like this one. 678 00:46:02,990 --> 00:46:04,950 In Isfahan, the going price 679 00:46:04,950 --> 00:46:07,250 for a basic three to four room apartment 680 00:46:07,250 --> 00:46:09,703 is the equivalent of 1,000 euros. 681 00:46:10,650 --> 00:46:12,890 Shanti will have to sell a lot of rugs 682 00:46:12,890 --> 00:46:14,513 to be able to pay that much. 683 00:46:16,820 --> 00:46:19,270 On Saturday, the undecided customers 684 00:46:19,270 --> 00:46:20,723 have returned to his shop. 685 00:46:21,690 --> 00:46:24,090 Shanti must use this second chance, 686 00:46:24,090 --> 00:46:25,660 since he won't get a third one. 687 00:46:25,660 --> 00:46:27,640 He attackted India. 688 00:46:27,640 --> 00:46:30,200 He left Iran with horse. 689 00:46:30,200 --> 00:46:32,420 But when he won in that war, 690 00:46:32,420 --> 00:46:34,430 he backed with elephant to here. 691 00:46:34,430 --> 00:46:36,670 From that time, food of elephant 692 00:46:36,670 --> 00:46:39,633 is getting symbol of victory, he's getting symbol of hero. 693 00:46:45,620 --> 00:46:46,709 Done. 694 00:46:46,709 --> 00:46:50,870 Shanti makes the sale earning about a 1,000 euros. 695 00:46:50,870 --> 00:46:54,143 This covers at least a third of his monthly fixed costs. 696 00:47:05,307 --> 00:47:07,300 [Shanti Interpreter] Things went pretty well today. 697 00:47:07,300 --> 00:47:09,880 We had a number of customers here 698 00:47:09,880 --> 00:47:12,783 and I made them a good offer for a beautiful carpet. 699 00:47:14,000 --> 00:47:15,663 They left my shop satisfied. 700 00:47:17,010 --> 00:47:19,713 That feels good after such a hard day's work. 701 00:47:20,620 --> 00:47:21,470 Really good. 702 00:47:25,753 --> 00:47:30,253 So, is there a future in carpet sales? 703 00:47:33,712 --> 00:47:36,090 [Rameen Interpreter] Our culture and art is very valuable, 704 00:47:36,090 --> 00:47:38,810 which you can see by looking at our carpets. 705 00:47:38,810 --> 00:47:41,640 We communicate with the world through our carpets. 706 00:47:41,640 --> 00:47:44,590 I'm glad I've been able to teach my son so much about them. 707 00:47:47,330 --> 00:47:48,790 But he knows he'll need more 708 00:47:48,790 --> 00:47:51,963 than just his father's carpet knowledge to be successful. 709 00:47:59,282 --> 00:48:00,350 [Shanti Interpreter] We're young 710 00:48:00,350 --> 00:48:02,730 and have a lot more energy than the elders. 711 00:48:02,730 --> 00:48:04,250 We give it our all. 712 00:48:04,250 --> 00:48:07,020 And even if the chances are low that someone will buy, 713 00:48:07,020 --> 00:48:08,593 I keep trying over and over. 714 00:48:15,480 --> 00:48:18,573 Shanti was prepared for it not to be easy. 715 00:48:27,853 --> 00:48:29,970 1,000-year-old Persian culture 716 00:48:29,970 --> 00:48:31,993 is present here on every corner. 717 00:48:33,400 --> 00:48:35,560 And yet many young Isfaharners 718 00:48:35,560 --> 00:48:37,680 have their eyes on the future. 719 00:48:37,680 --> 00:48:39,964 Everything seems possible. 720 00:48:39,964 --> 00:48:43,131 (bright dreamy music) 721 00:48:52,720 --> 00:48:55,920 For Rameen Ghafarian, the parental generation 722 00:48:55,920 --> 00:48:57,720 still plays an important role. 723 00:49:05,001 --> 00:49:06,370 [Rameen Interpreter] If we neglect our children, 724 00:49:06,370 --> 00:49:07,790 we will lose them. 725 00:49:07,790 --> 00:49:09,930 We cannot allow this to happen. 726 00:49:09,930 --> 00:49:11,990 We must pass down our experience to them 727 00:49:11,990 --> 00:49:15,190 without dictating what they should or should not do. 728 00:49:15,190 --> 00:49:18,360 We should give them their freedom, but cautiously, 729 00:49:18,360 --> 00:49:20,033 and they must be open with us. 730 00:49:23,140 --> 00:49:26,313 Yet, not everybody waits for permission. 731 00:49:27,360 --> 00:49:30,053 Many take their happiness into their own hands. 732 00:49:40,179 --> 00:49:42,660 [Nima Interpreter] We skaters are part of society 733 00:49:42,660 --> 00:49:44,160 that isn't afraid of anything. 734 00:49:46,050 --> 00:49:47,950 We do what we want 735 00:49:47,950 --> 00:49:50,750 and don't start whining if we break a bone now and then. 736 00:49:51,740 --> 00:49:54,803 That separates us from other young people. 737 00:49:58,580 --> 00:50:01,600 Nima and friends dare to do things, 738 00:50:01,600 --> 00:50:04,333 even if it's only to have fun skateboarding. 739 00:50:07,060 --> 00:50:09,160 It's not always easy for young people 740 00:50:09,160 --> 00:50:11,850 to manage the balancing act between religion, 741 00:50:11,850 --> 00:50:13,873 tradition and modernity. 742 00:50:20,329 --> 00:50:22,320 [Shanti Interpreter] A problem today is that the children 743 00:50:22,320 --> 00:50:24,313 can really do what they want. 744 00:50:26,400 --> 00:50:29,063 This leads to difficulties between the generations. 745 00:50:31,990 --> 00:50:34,170 Sure, the young generation is free 746 00:50:34,170 --> 00:50:36,770 and they get everything they want from the internet. 747 00:50:39,839 --> 00:50:43,150 But in contrast to their parents, they have no experience. 748 00:50:43,150 --> 00:50:46,653 And without that, you quickly reach your limits. 749 00:50:49,410 --> 00:50:50,743 That's the way it is. 750 00:50:56,330 --> 00:50:58,350 {\an8}Isfahan is half the world, 751 00:50:58,350 --> 00:51:00,680 {\an8}according to an old saying. 752 00:51:00,680 --> 00:51:03,460 It will be interesting to see what kind of world 753 00:51:03,460 --> 00:51:06,280 today's courageous and passionate Isfahaners 754 00:51:06,280 --> 00:51:08,604 will create in the future. 755 00:51:08,604 --> 00:51:11,187 (dreamy music) 58478

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