Would you like to inspect the original subtitles? These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated:
1
00:00:02,230 --> 00:00:03,710
(bright airy music)
2
00:00:03,710 --> 00:00:05,720
between the great deserts to the east
3
00:00:05,720 --> 00:00:08,370
and the Zagros mountains to the west
4
00:00:08,370 --> 00:00:11,373
lies the former royal city of Isfahan.
5
00:00:13,490 --> 00:00:16,610
Almost nowhere else has the cultural heritage of Persia
6
00:00:16,610 --> 00:00:19,300
remain so vibrant as in this city
7
00:00:19,300 --> 00:00:20,733
on the Zayandeh River.
8
00:00:25,240 --> 00:00:26,850
A young generation is trying
9
00:00:26,850 --> 00:00:29,200
not only to preserve their city's legacy
10
00:00:30,100 --> 00:00:32,790
but also to make a living from it.
11
00:00:32,790 --> 00:00:34,133
It's a big challenge.
12
00:00:36,230 --> 00:00:40,090
But if you can make it in Isfahan, you can make it anywhere.
13
00:00:40,090 --> 00:00:42,503
At least according to the natives.
14
00:00:43,761 --> 00:00:46,678
{\an8}(light airy music)
15
00:00:57,570 --> 00:00:59,570
30-year-old Shanti Ghafarian
16
00:00:59,570 --> 00:01:02,343
has just opened his first shop in the city center.
17
00:01:03,550 --> 00:01:05,663
He's a third-generation carpet merchant.
18
00:01:16,730 --> 00:01:18,140
[Shanti Interpreter] As a little boy,
19
00:01:18,140 --> 00:01:21,230
I always came home from school to my father's carpet shop.
20
00:01:21,230 --> 00:01:22,483
It was right nearby.
21
00:01:26,775 --> 00:01:29,660
And I wanted to learn all about carpets from him,
22
00:01:29,660 --> 00:01:33,353
how they're woven, where they come from and so on.
23
00:01:37,500 --> 00:01:38,860
Following commercial training
24
00:01:38,860 --> 00:01:42,740
and business studies, Shanti is now his own boss
25
00:01:42,740 --> 00:01:44,403
and employs two workers.
26
00:01:46,420 --> 00:01:48,473
But today they're keeping him waiting.
27
00:01:50,456 --> 00:01:52,956
(phone calls)
28
00:01:55,635 --> 00:01:56,650
[Shanti Interpreter] Hello, Ali.
29
00:01:56,650 --> 00:01:57,897
Good morning.
30
00:01:57,897 --> 00:01:58,914
[Shanti Interpreter] When are you coming?
31
00:01:58,914 --> 00:02:00,087
What? Hello?
32
00:02:00,087 --> 00:02:01,800
[Shanti Interpreter] Right. Hello?
33
00:02:01,800 --> 00:02:03,400
I just asked when you're coming.
34
00:02:05,700 --> 00:02:08,010
I'll be there in five minutes.
35
00:02:08,010 --> 00:02:09,730
I can't hear you very well.
36
00:02:09,730 --> 00:02:11,090
[Shanti Interpreter] Right? Okay.
37
00:02:11,090 --> 00:02:12,133
Please come quickly.
38
00:02:13,980 --> 00:02:14,813
Hurry it up.
39
00:02:16,600 --> 00:02:18,733
Yes, I will. Bye.
40
00:02:20,680 --> 00:02:22,430
Employee Ali turns up.
41
00:02:26,580 --> 00:02:28,623
And now Milad rolls in as well.
42
00:02:30,267 --> 00:02:31,351
[Shanti Interpreter] Hey, Milad.
43
00:02:31,351 --> 00:02:33,153
[Milad Interpreter] I'm still asleep.
44
00:02:33,153 --> 00:02:35,133
[Shanti Interpreter] Oh no. You don't say.
45
00:02:38,800 --> 00:02:41,600
Milad, help Ali with a ladder.
46
00:02:41,600 --> 00:02:43,650
I'm going to quickly finish this up here.
47
00:02:52,480 --> 00:02:56,040
My father warned me: "This shop will rule your life
48
00:02:56,040 --> 00:02:57,617
and take up all your time."
49
00:02:59,011 --> 00:03:00,261
And that's what happened.
50
00:03:01,330 --> 00:03:03,163
I have a 16-hour workday.
51
00:03:05,020 --> 00:03:06,920
I'm in the shop more than I'm at home.
52
00:03:12,598 --> 00:03:14,460
Shanti's shop is open daily
53
00:03:14,460 --> 00:03:16,783
from 9:00 AM to 11:00 PM.
54
00:03:22,518 --> 00:03:23,910
[Shanti Interpreter] The customers who come at night
55
00:03:23,910 --> 00:03:25,760
are especially temperamental.
56
00:03:25,760 --> 00:03:27,710
They say, we have to think about it.
57
00:03:27,710 --> 00:03:28,963
We'll come back tomorrow.
58
00:03:30,190 --> 00:03:33,070
By then we'll have unrolled more than 50 carpets.
59
00:03:33,070 --> 00:03:36,370
And every single one of them weighs four or five kilos.
60
00:03:36,370 --> 00:03:38,320
Yesterday, we had a customer like that.
61
00:03:38,320 --> 00:03:40,750
We showed him one carpet after another,
62
00:03:40,750 --> 00:03:42,733
and then he left without buying one.
63
00:03:44,340 --> 00:03:46,840
Maybe water will bring a bit of luck.
64
00:03:48,420 --> 00:03:50,650
The daily opening of the shop is a ritual
65
00:03:50,650 --> 00:03:53,170
that bazaarees in Isfahan celebrate
66
00:03:53,170 --> 00:03:55,163
as they do all over Iran.
67
00:04:01,257 --> 00:04:03,040
[Shanti Interpreter] The owner of every shop,
68
00:04:03,040 --> 00:04:04,670
including the bookstore,
69
00:04:04,670 --> 00:04:06,520
pours water in front of his business.
70
00:04:08,970 --> 00:04:11,120
Water is like a sacred light
71
00:04:11,120 --> 00:04:13,220
everyone wants to bless his business with.
72
00:04:16,290 --> 00:04:18,650
We learn this from our parents:
73
00:04:18,650 --> 00:04:21,323
sweep, bless and trust in God.
74
00:04:23,680 --> 00:04:25,920
Everyone does it in in his own way.
75
00:04:25,920 --> 00:04:28,020
I have nothing else on hand at the moment.
76
00:04:29,748 --> 00:04:32,581
(Shanti laughing)
77
00:04:35,060 --> 00:04:36,410
He doesn't have to wait long
78
00:04:36,410 --> 00:04:37,793
for the first customers.
79
00:04:40,780 --> 00:04:44,060
Shanti has to turn over about 3,000 euros per month
80
00:04:44,060 --> 00:04:47,950
to cover ongoing expenses like rent and salaries.
81
00:04:47,950 --> 00:04:50,393
But the carpet business has become harder.
82
00:04:51,410 --> 00:04:54,593
Cheap competition from East Asia makes sales difficult.
83
00:04:57,400 --> 00:05:00,770
People think long and hard before spending five,
84
00:05:00,770 --> 00:05:03,763
10 or 20,000 euros on a carpet.
85
00:05:07,939 --> 00:05:09,670
[Shanti Interpreter] For this job, you need a big heart
86
00:05:09,670 --> 00:05:10,893
and lots of patience.
87
00:05:13,340 --> 00:05:14,580
It's not like a supermarket
88
00:05:14,580 --> 00:05:18,623
that sells candy to kids every day, no.
89
00:05:21,300 --> 00:05:23,050
Shanti has put a lot of things
90
00:05:23,050 --> 00:05:26,520
on the back burner while he seeks professional success.
91
00:05:26,520 --> 00:05:28,840
The 30 year old simply doesn't have enough time
92
00:05:28,840 --> 00:05:31,093
for family, friends, or hobbies.
93
00:05:35,440 --> 00:05:38,350
Like many Iranians, Shanti sees the relationship
94
00:05:38,350 --> 00:05:40,773
between belief and business pragmatically.
95
00:05:41,880 --> 00:05:43,800
He doesn't go into a mosque.
96
00:05:43,800 --> 00:05:46,170
The little carpet stock room is sufficient for him
97
00:05:46,170 --> 00:05:47,623
to practice his faith.
98
00:06:01,457 --> 00:06:04,290
(elevator hisses)
99
00:06:13,690 --> 00:06:15,730
A group of French people has found their way
100
00:06:15,730 --> 00:06:17,620
to Shanti's shop.
101
00:06:17,620 --> 00:06:19,590
Together with Kerman and Tabriz,
102
00:06:19,590 --> 00:06:23,070
Isfahan is one of the largest weaving centers in Iran.
103
00:06:23,070 --> 00:06:25,710
For many travelers, the visit to a carpet shop
104
00:06:25,710 --> 00:06:27,493
is part of the itinerary.
105
00:06:32,340 --> 00:06:35,530
Tourists are important customers for Shanti,
106
00:06:35,530 --> 00:06:39,203
many are bargain hunters, but quality has its price.
107
00:06:40,880 --> 00:06:43,380
(light music)
108
00:06:46,030 --> 00:06:48,100
You definitely won't be successful,
109
00:06:48,100 --> 00:06:49,550
if you're not passionate,
110
00:06:49,550 --> 00:06:52,500
even if the chances of selling something today are minimal.
111
00:07:00,121 --> 00:07:02,310
[Shanti Interpreter] It's very important to me
112
00:07:02,310 --> 00:07:04,860
to spread out real carpets in front of my customers
113
00:07:06,260 --> 00:07:08,763
and not just show them a catalog with photos.
114
00:07:13,200 --> 00:07:15,770
Still he can't completely convince them.
115
00:07:15,770 --> 00:07:17,863
The French people want to think about it.
116
00:07:20,260 --> 00:07:22,910
Visitors don't only come to the fairytale city
117
00:07:22,910 --> 00:07:25,423
on the Zayandeh River for the woven art.
118
00:07:26,440 --> 00:07:28,990
The 33 arch Si-o-se-pol Bridge
119
00:07:28,990 --> 00:07:30,570
on the river's northern section
120
00:07:30,570 --> 00:07:33,920
and the Khajoo Bridge on the southern section
121
00:07:33,920 --> 00:07:36,060
are among the city's landmarks.
122
00:07:36,060 --> 00:07:38,663
They're inviting places to spend some time.
123
00:07:40,760 --> 00:07:43,210
Naqsh-e Jahan Square in the city center
124
00:07:43,210 --> 00:07:46,770
is the symbolic embodiment of Persian high culture.
125
00:07:46,770 --> 00:07:50,430
You can see why residents of Isfahan refer to their city
126
00:07:50,430 --> 00:07:52,133
as the sky blue pearl.
127
00:07:58,490 --> 00:08:01,870
In the 16th century Shah Abbas resettled artists
128
00:08:01,870 --> 00:08:05,240
and craftsmen from throughout the land in Isfahan:
129
00:08:05,240 --> 00:08:09,500
Persians, Arabs and Jews all helped transform Isfahan
130
00:08:09,500 --> 00:08:11,113
into an Oriental Dream.
131
00:08:15,170 --> 00:08:16,980
The Christian Armenian community
132
00:08:16,980 --> 00:08:19,383
also has a long tradition in Isfahan.
133
00:08:21,260 --> 00:08:23,130
The Vank Cathedral is evidence
134
00:08:23,130 --> 00:08:25,553
of the city's cosmopolitan atmosphere.
135
00:08:27,153 --> 00:08:30,320
(light pensive music)
136
00:08:42,170 --> 00:08:46,500
It's late evening, a day without a single sale
137
00:08:46,500 --> 00:08:48,063
is ending at Shanti's.
138
00:08:50,370 --> 00:08:51,650
In just a few hours
139
00:08:51,650 --> 00:08:53,943
he will begin recruiting customers again.
140
00:08:55,070 --> 00:08:56,323
He rarely sleeps much.
141
00:09:12,320 --> 00:09:16,653
Next morning, the city gets ready for a new day.
142
00:09:18,400 --> 00:09:20,650
Around two and a half million residents
143
00:09:20,650 --> 00:09:22,560
live in Isfahan today.
144
00:09:22,560 --> 00:09:24,240
Like many young Iranians,
145
00:09:24,240 --> 00:09:26,430
Shanti still lives with his parents.
146
00:09:26,430 --> 00:09:27,780
His strictly religious mother
147
00:09:27,780 --> 00:09:29,510
leaves it to her husband Rameen
148
00:09:29,510 --> 00:09:31,883
to represent the family to outsiders.
149
00:09:35,245 --> 00:09:36,460
[Rameen Interpreter] We Iranian fathers
150
00:09:36,460 --> 00:09:39,693
worry about the future of our children our whole lives long.
151
00:09:40,590 --> 00:09:42,823
Are they successful? Are they independent?
152
00:09:43,830 --> 00:09:45,780
I wish for a good life for my children.
153
00:09:52,350 --> 00:09:53,730
Shanti's older siblings
154
00:09:53,730 --> 00:09:55,810
have already moved away from home.
155
00:09:55,810 --> 00:09:58,383
He still relies on his parents' support.
156
00:10:03,160 --> 00:10:05,070
[Rameen Interpreter] We taught him to walk.
157
00:10:05,070 --> 00:10:07,313
Now we have to teach him to be independent,
158
00:10:08,260 --> 00:10:12,730
but in the Iranian manner, not like Europeans or Americans
159
00:10:12,730 --> 00:10:15,980
who just separate from their children when they're 18.
160
00:10:15,980 --> 00:10:19,123
In Iran we watch over our children our entire lives.
161
00:10:22,860 --> 00:10:26,333
At 68, he now has enough time to do so.
162
00:10:28,212 --> 00:10:30,712
(light music)
163
00:10:33,210 --> 00:10:35,540
After 40 years in the carpet business,
164
00:10:35,540 --> 00:10:38,560
he can afford to take things a little easier today
165
00:10:38,560 --> 00:10:42,913
and focus on his second greatest passion: his flowers.
166
00:10:47,160 --> 00:10:50,323
But the father's concern for his children keeps him busy.
167
00:10:53,914 --> 00:10:55,470
[Rameen Interpreter] My duties don't just allow me
168
00:10:55,470 --> 00:10:58,973
to sit at home and busy myself with one thing or another.
169
00:11:00,560 --> 00:11:03,100
I go to the Bazaar every day
170
00:11:03,100 --> 00:11:05,813
and I do what I can to secure my children's future.
171
00:11:15,850 --> 00:11:18,050
As the head of an old Isfahan family,
172
00:11:18,050 --> 00:11:22,193
Rameen Ghafarian also has social responsibilities.
173
00:11:24,990 --> 00:11:27,930
A greeting here, a chat there,
174
00:11:27,930 --> 00:11:31,123
his daily route to the bazaar is a social leeway.
175
00:11:33,264 --> 00:11:37,931
(people chattering in foreign language)
176
00:11:39,540 --> 00:11:42,673
The gentleman of the old school has never been to Europe,
177
00:11:43,535 --> 00:11:46,593
but he thinks he knows the difference between it and Iran.
178
00:11:50,026 --> 00:11:51,130
[Rameen Interpreter] We have many friends
179
00:11:51,130 --> 00:11:52,928
and relatives in Isfahan
180
00:11:52,928 --> 00:11:55,778
and we must cultivate our relationships with one another.
181
00:11:56,860 --> 00:11:59,900
Everyone here in our district knows my first name,
182
00:11:59,900 --> 00:12:01,593
from bazaarees to bakers.
183
00:12:03,170 --> 00:12:04,900
That's the way it is here.
184
00:12:04,900 --> 00:12:07,123
We greet each other and ask how it's going.
185
00:12:08,090 --> 00:12:11,373
Not like in Europe, where everybody just lives for himself.
186
00:12:16,820 --> 00:12:18,790
The cultivation of relationships
187
00:12:18,790 --> 00:12:20,960
and contacts takes time.
188
00:12:20,960 --> 00:12:25,303
Ghafarian senior only reaches his own shop by around midday.
189
00:12:26,200 --> 00:12:29,293
At first glance, it's very different from his son's shop.
190
00:12:30,140 --> 00:12:33,300
There are photos rather than physical merchandise
191
00:12:33,300 --> 00:12:35,280
and hardly any decoration.
192
00:12:35,280 --> 00:12:38,210
Customers who come to him know what they want.
193
00:12:38,210 --> 00:12:40,203
What counts is the price.
194
00:12:41,185 --> 00:12:44,352
(light playful music)
195
00:12:49,964 --> 00:12:52,637
[Customer Interpreter] Can you make it less expensive?
196
00:12:52,637 --> 00:12:54,653
[Rameen Interpreter] Unfortunately, my hands are tied.
197
00:12:56,066 --> 00:12:58,068
[Customer Interpreter] Oh, come on.
198
00:12:58,068 --> 00:13:00,797
[Rameen Interpreter] Let's see now.
199
00:13:00,797 --> 00:13:02,331
How's this?
200
00:13:02,331 --> 00:13:05,248
[Customer Interpreter] Yes. Okay.
201
00:13:06,650 --> 00:13:07,533
Many thanks.
202
00:13:08,459 --> 00:13:11,491
[Rameen Interpreter] Goodbye.
203
00:13:11,491 --> 00:13:12,324
[Shanti Interpreter] Carpet dealing
204
00:13:12,324 --> 00:13:13,973
is a very traditional business.
205
00:13:14,830 --> 00:13:18,680
The old carpet merchants don't even talk to their customers.
206
00:13:18,680 --> 00:13:21,090
We young ones are completely different.
207
00:13:21,090 --> 00:13:23,940
We're much more open also in our dealings with customers.
208
00:13:24,970 --> 00:13:28,320
And village-made carpet, it doesn't have any pattern.
209
00:13:28,320 --> 00:13:30,910
It's made by imagination of woman,
210
00:13:30,910 --> 00:13:33,040
everything she has in her mind,
211
00:13:33,040 --> 00:13:35,840
she translate to some symbol, to some motif.
212
00:13:35,840 --> 00:13:37,190
And then she made a carpet.
213
00:13:38,700 --> 00:13:40,690
Shanti's sales strategy is tailored
214
00:13:40,690 --> 00:13:43,283
to his largely European customer base.
215
00:13:46,029 --> 00:13:48,743
He sells not only carpets, but stories.
216
00:13:51,560 --> 00:13:53,880
I can tell you. If it's made by (indistinct),
217
00:13:53,880 --> 00:13:55,890
it's 144 foot.
218
00:13:55,890 --> 00:13:59,083
Designer of this one is a famous by foot of elephant.
219
00:14:01,960 --> 00:14:04,630
In Iran, we don't have any elephants.
220
00:14:04,630 --> 00:14:06,360
It's back to the history of Iran.
221
00:14:06,360 --> 00:14:10,730
When King of Iran Nader Shah attacked India,
222
00:14:10,730 --> 00:14:12,240
he left Iran with a horse,
223
00:14:12,240 --> 00:14:14,690
but they said when he (indistinct) in Isfahan,
224
00:14:14,690 --> 00:14:16,500
he backed with elephant to here.
225
00:14:16,500 --> 00:14:18,610
From that time, foot of elephant
226
00:14:18,610 --> 00:14:21,648
is getting symbol of victory, is getting symbol of hero.
227
00:14:21,648 --> 00:14:25,314
(Shanti speaks in foreign language)
228
00:14:25,314 --> 00:14:27,363
[Shanti Interpreter] It's like with a piece of pizza,
229
00:14:28,570 --> 00:14:32,586
once they've tasted some, they can't stop,
230
00:14:32,586 --> 00:14:34,123
and they want the whole pizza.
231
00:14:37,730 --> 00:14:39,793
They keep tasting and tasting.
232
00:14:41,374 --> 00:14:42,430
(group applauds)
233
00:14:42,430 --> 00:14:43,980
That's the theory.
234
00:14:45,260 --> 00:14:48,440
But the practice, unfortunately, looks different.
235
00:14:48,440 --> 00:14:51,283
Shanti hasn't managed to sell a single carpet.
236
00:14:52,750 --> 00:14:55,557
He has no good news for father Rameen.
237
00:15:08,208 --> 00:15:09,041
[Rameen Interpreter] Hello.
238
00:15:09,041 --> 00:15:10,593
And? How was it?
239
00:15:12,506 --> 00:15:14,280
[Shanti Interpreter] Well, there were some people here,
240
00:15:14,280 --> 00:15:17,033
but they just looked and couldn't decide.
241
00:15:18,920 --> 00:15:20,960
These Germans are always like that.
242
00:15:20,960 --> 00:15:24,550
They come, look and say, they're not sure.
243
00:15:24,550 --> 00:15:25,803
And they might come back.
244
00:15:26,760 --> 00:15:28,483
Nothing in particular. The usual.
245
00:15:34,260 --> 00:15:36,560
Success looks different.
246
00:15:36,560 --> 00:15:38,720
But the Ghafarian family has been active
247
00:15:38,720 --> 00:15:41,460
in the carpet business for three generations
248
00:15:41,460 --> 00:15:43,393
and they aren't easily perturbed.
249
00:15:47,057 --> 00:15:48,950
[Rameen Interpreter] Every profession requires patience.
250
00:15:48,950 --> 00:15:51,563
And of course, also a good instinct and knowledge.
251
00:15:52,590 --> 00:15:55,500
Since he possesses both, he can be successful.
252
00:15:55,500 --> 00:15:58,170
There's a great deal of value in the carpet business.
253
00:15:58,170 --> 00:16:00,020
And I still see a great future in it.
254
00:16:05,440 --> 00:16:06,950
A great future.
255
00:16:06,950 --> 00:16:10,630
At least Shanti seems to have found one in his private life.
256
00:16:14,630 --> 00:16:18,060
He's been engaged to 29-year-old Nina Delshakaste
257
00:16:18,060 --> 00:16:19,890
for five months.
258
00:16:19,890 --> 00:16:23,773
Like Shanti, she comes from a reputable Isfahan family.
259
00:16:29,587 --> 00:16:30,870
[Shanti Interpreter] One of my close friends
260
00:16:30,870 --> 00:16:32,403
introduced me to Nina.
261
00:16:38,980 --> 00:16:41,943
One day they came together to the carpet shop,
262
00:16:42,860 --> 00:16:44,460
where I was working at the time.
263
00:16:52,090 --> 00:16:56,667
Later, my friend said to me, "Did you see that woman?"
264
00:16:56,667 --> 00:16:58,373
"You'd be a really good couple.
265
00:16:59,644 --> 00:17:04,061
(Shanti speaks in foreign language)
266
00:17:07,940 --> 00:17:11,700
If you want to marry her, I can introduce you."
267
00:17:11,700 --> 00:17:16,033
(Shanti speaks in foreign language)
268
00:17:21,100 --> 00:17:25,303
I thought about it briefly, then said, okay.
269
00:17:28,781 --> 00:17:31,280
It was unbelievable.
270
00:17:31,280 --> 00:17:33,340
Since our first conversation,
271
00:17:33,340 --> 00:17:35,390
I had the feeling I've known her forever.
272
00:17:40,538 --> 00:17:43,195
And it was completely uncomplicated.
273
00:17:43,195 --> 00:17:45,003
And soon we trusted each other.
274
00:17:46,130 --> 00:17:50,463
(Shanti speaks in foreign language)
275
00:17:53,500 --> 00:17:56,760
Two months later, my parents already knew,
276
00:17:56,760 --> 00:17:58,663
and Nina's mother knew about us, too.
277
00:18:01,390 --> 00:18:03,030
But not her father.
278
00:18:03,030 --> 00:18:04,680
He would have gone for my throat.
279
00:18:10,250 --> 00:18:12,690
By now the couple also has the blessing
280
00:18:12,690 --> 00:18:15,563
of Nina's father and they want to marry.
281
00:18:19,290 --> 00:18:21,540
But they don't have much time for each other.
282
00:18:24,487 --> 00:18:29,487
(lighthearted music)
(group laughing)
283
00:18:35,169 --> 00:18:37,300
[Nina Interpreter] Okay, Shanti, I'm leaving again.
284
00:18:37,300 --> 00:18:38,793
Bye. Take care.
285
00:18:42,500 --> 00:18:43,680
Societal roles
286
00:18:43,680 --> 00:18:46,550
are traditionally assigned in Iran.
287
00:18:46,550 --> 00:18:49,930
Shanty's expected to stand on his own two feet financially
288
00:18:49,930 --> 00:18:51,920
before he marries Nina.
289
00:18:51,920 --> 00:18:54,633
The young entrepreneur is far from that point.
290
00:19:00,340 --> 00:19:02,460
The Qeysarie Gate at the entrance
291
00:19:02,460 --> 00:19:04,653
to the Old Bazaar in Isfahan.
292
00:19:06,660 --> 00:19:09,230
Since the city's heyday in the 17th century,
293
00:19:09,230 --> 00:19:11,960
many Persian craftsman have had their workshops
294
00:19:11,960 --> 00:19:12,893
and shops here.
295
00:19:13,850 --> 00:19:15,250
Shanti has an appointment
296
00:19:15,250 --> 00:19:18,453
with a Grandmaster of the Isfahan Carpet Guild.
297
00:19:21,450 --> 00:19:25,200
Faizullah Hariri is known far beyond the city's borders
298
00:19:25,200 --> 00:19:27,980
for his high quality materials and designs.
299
00:19:30,228 --> 00:19:34,478
(men speaking in foreign language)
300
00:19:37,570 --> 00:19:41,700
Father Rameen has facilitated this exclusive contact.
301
00:19:41,700 --> 00:19:44,053
There are many beautiful carpets in Isfahan,
302
00:19:45,050 --> 00:19:49,333
but only a few of a real Persian rug crafted by Hariri.
303
00:19:51,796 --> 00:19:56,046
(men speaking in foreign language)
304
00:20:00,078 --> 00:20:02,280
[Shanti Interpreter] We're not talking about my order,
305
00:20:02,280 --> 00:20:05,160
but about one from a well-informed customer.
306
00:20:05,160 --> 00:20:07,040
Such customers want something special
307
00:20:08,110 --> 00:20:10,350
and if they want something special,
308
00:20:10,350 --> 00:20:12,043
you have to find a famous master.
309
00:20:12,930 --> 00:20:14,440
The customer must be convinced
310
00:20:14,440 --> 00:20:16,123
his order is in the right hands.
311
00:20:17,440 --> 00:20:19,720
If you mentioned Hariri's name,
312
00:20:19,720 --> 00:20:22,434
of course, that has great significance.
313
00:20:22,434 --> 00:20:24,600
Hariri is really a big name.
314
00:20:27,619 --> 00:20:31,869
(men speaking in foreign language)
315
00:20:38,630 --> 00:20:42,700
Modern computers with design software are by now a given,
316
00:20:42,700 --> 00:20:45,973
even in such companies with long standing traditions.
317
00:20:51,259 --> 00:20:54,180
[Faizullah Interpreter] I have three sons
318
00:20:54,180 --> 00:20:57,300
and it's an honor for me to work with them.
319
00:20:57,300 --> 00:20:59,683
They're very interested in my work.
320
00:21:01,780 --> 00:21:04,253
They're trying to do new things and modernize,
321
00:21:06,960 --> 00:21:09,430
but they also take care to maintain
322
00:21:09,430 --> 00:21:11,573
the good reputation of their forefathers.
323
00:21:21,294 --> 00:21:23,570
Though the sons provide the family business
324
00:21:23,570 --> 00:21:24,973
with fresh inspiration,
325
00:21:26,260 --> 00:21:29,180
Hariri Sr. will not let anyone interfere
326
00:21:29,180 --> 00:21:30,573
when it comes to colors.
327
00:21:33,877 --> 00:21:35,390
[Faizullah Interpreter] Color is the most important
328
00:21:35,390 --> 00:21:37,173
element in the entire process.
329
00:21:38,830 --> 00:21:41,853
Color is the first thing I consider before I even began.
330
00:21:44,170 --> 00:21:45,540
The question is which colors
331
00:21:45,540 --> 00:21:47,323
are the most pleasing to my eyes.
332
00:21:50,290 --> 00:21:53,170
Hariri uses only plant-based colors
333
00:21:53,170 --> 00:21:54,803
and natural materials.
334
00:21:57,090 --> 00:22:00,902
Handling them requires a great deal of experience.
335
00:22:00,902 --> 00:22:05,485
(Faizullah speaks in foreign language)
336
00:22:07,987 --> 00:22:10,250
[Faizullah Interpreter] The wool of the sheep from Isfahan
337
00:22:10,250 --> 00:22:12,600
is very different from one from another region.
338
00:22:15,570 --> 00:22:17,370
Even if you dye them with the same dye,
339
00:22:17,370 --> 00:22:18,923
you never get the same result.
340
00:22:21,150 --> 00:22:23,260
That's why it's very important to us
341
00:22:23,260 --> 00:22:25,103
that the sheep come from Isfahan.
342
00:22:30,490 --> 00:22:32,290
Depending on the material,
343
00:22:32,290 --> 00:22:35,080
a carpet can consist of more than a million knots
344
00:22:35,080 --> 00:22:36,103
per square meter.
345
00:22:40,590 --> 00:22:43,470
8,000 knots a day is the daily workload
346
00:22:43,470 --> 00:22:44,883
of an experience weaver.
347
00:22:48,620 --> 00:22:51,023
And each not must fit perfectly.
348
00:23:00,237 --> 00:23:01,810
[Faizullah Interpreter] You see, everything is numbered
349
00:23:01,810 --> 00:23:02,710
according to plan.
350
00:23:03,637 --> 00:23:05,280
[Shanti Interpreter] Yes, exactly.
351
00:23:05,280 --> 00:23:07,873
[Faizullah Interpreter] Everything is precisely knotted.
352
00:23:09,590 --> 00:23:13,173
If the ladies make a mistake, the carpet won't be beautiful.
353
00:23:18,900 --> 00:23:22,510
Even experienced weavers, like Maryam Mailizi,
354
00:23:22,510 --> 00:23:26,023
often work on complicated works of art for years.
355
00:23:32,908 --> 00:23:35,633
(Maryam speaks in foreign language)
356
00:23:35,633 --> 00:23:36,930
[Maryam Interpreter] I followed in the footsteps
357
00:23:36,930 --> 00:23:38,253
of my forebears.
358
00:23:39,220 --> 00:23:40,980
My mother wove carpets
359
00:23:40,980 --> 00:23:44,693
and I started in her workshop when I was eight.
360
00:23:46,220 --> 00:23:48,430
They made very large carpets there.
361
00:23:48,430 --> 00:23:49,530
And I had lots of fun.
362
00:23:51,610 --> 00:23:52,960
I thought at the time,
363
00:23:52,960 --> 00:23:56,773
that that was the only proper work for women.
364
00:23:59,563 --> 00:24:01,843
Of course it's hard work,
365
00:24:02,680 --> 00:24:07,680
but if you love your work, you tolerate these difficulties.
366
00:24:12,822 --> 00:24:16,853
The work can lead to troubles with your eyes and back.
367
00:24:18,943 --> 00:24:21,253
Everything has its difficulties,
368
00:24:22,380 --> 00:24:25,407
but if you do it with love, you can endure it.
369
00:24:30,920 --> 00:24:33,170
Today, fewer and fewer women
370
00:24:33,170 --> 00:24:35,140
choose to be weavers.
371
00:24:35,140 --> 00:24:37,620
Many young Iranian women want to study
372
00:24:37,620 --> 00:24:39,040
and look for new challenges
373
00:24:39,040 --> 00:24:41,563
outside the traditional gender roles.
374
00:24:44,490 --> 00:24:46,610
It's a topic that Nina Delshakaste
375
00:24:46,610 --> 00:24:50,080
and her mother Mohad hash out almost daily.
376
00:24:50,080 --> 00:24:53,750
Nina's father works in the oil industry and is rarely home.
377
00:24:53,750 --> 00:24:56,880
56 year old Mohad is in charge of the household
378
00:24:56,880 --> 00:24:59,513
and manages the education of their two children.
379
00:25:00,610 --> 00:25:03,183
[Mohad Interpreter] The door buzzed, see who it is.
380
00:25:05,450 --> 00:25:07,460
Nina's studied nutritional science
381
00:25:07,460 --> 00:25:08,710
and is looking for a job.
382
00:25:11,410 --> 00:25:12,830
Her little sister, Nikta,
383
00:25:12,830 --> 00:25:15,173
also wants to study at a university.
384
00:25:24,400 --> 00:25:25,960
They both still live at home
385
00:25:25,960 --> 00:25:29,063
and enjoying the advantages of having a dedicated mother.
386
00:25:35,186 --> 00:25:36,765
[Nikta Interpreter] What did you cook, mama?
387
00:25:36,765 --> 00:25:38,592
[Mohad Interpreter] Rhaini and sabzi polo.
388
00:25:38,592 --> 00:25:40,423
[Nikta Interpreter] No vegetable fritters?
389
00:25:43,254 --> 00:25:45,843
(women speaking in foreign language)
390
00:25:45,843 --> 00:25:47,410
[Mohad Interpreter] The mother is the backbone
391
00:25:47,410 --> 00:25:48,800
of the family.
392
00:25:48,800 --> 00:25:51,923
Not just me, but all Iranian mothers.
393
00:25:54,540 --> 00:25:56,800
I don't know how it is in Europe,
394
00:25:56,800 --> 00:26:00,940
but in our culture the mothers play the most important role.
395
00:26:02,300 --> 00:26:04,510
We're responsible for the children's
396
00:26:04,510 --> 00:26:06,810
good behavior and education.
397
00:26:06,810 --> 00:26:11,043
For that, I have to be as strong as a mountain.
398
00:26:18,250 --> 00:26:21,210
It's important to an Iranian husband
399
00:26:21,210 --> 00:26:23,810
that his wife is a good cook.
400
00:26:23,810 --> 00:26:27,220
If you're a good cook, everything's all right.
401
00:26:27,220 --> 00:26:29,593
If not, he'll get his meals elsewhere.
402
00:26:30,474 --> 00:26:31,660
[Nina Interpreter] Well, hopefully he'll develop
403
00:26:31,660 --> 00:26:32,580
stomach trouble there
404
00:26:32,580 --> 00:26:34,680
and don't feel like eating at all anymore.
405
00:26:37,608 --> 00:26:39,940
[Mohad Interpreter] No. How can you be so mean?
406
00:26:39,940 --> 00:26:43,390
If you love somebody, you should do your best for him
407
00:26:43,390 --> 00:26:45,930
with cooking and other things.
408
00:26:45,930 --> 00:26:48,843
You should always want the best for your husband.
409
00:26:52,037 --> 00:26:53,860
[Nina Interpreter] My generation was born
410
00:26:53,860 --> 00:26:56,503
in a time between the traditional and the modern.
411
00:26:59,160 --> 00:27:02,010
Everyone knows you have to adapt to the time you live in.
412
00:27:03,890 --> 00:27:07,600
Someone like me who has studied and is active for society
413
00:27:07,600 --> 00:27:10,733
can't live completely traditional in the 21st century.
414
00:27:14,454 --> 00:27:17,815
Of course, some things are simply part of our culture.
415
00:27:17,815 --> 00:27:19,215
We can't run away from them.
416
00:27:23,794 --> 00:27:26,210
But sometimes some of the paint peels off traditions
417
00:27:26,210 --> 00:27:28,393
and you can't just ignore that.
418
00:27:29,662 --> 00:27:33,912
(Nina speaks in foreign language)
419
00:27:37,700 --> 00:27:39,810
And sometimes old traditions
420
00:27:39,810 --> 00:27:41,373
get a fresh coat of paint.
421
00:27:43,730 --> 00:27:46,893
Nina is on with a friend Yavari this afternoon.
422
00:27:49,220 --> 00:27:51,930
Yavari wears a chador, the traditional garment
423
00:27:51,930 --> 00:27:54,543
of conservative religious Iranian women.
424
00:27:55,930 --> 00:27:59,370
The 32-year-old Muslim is a mother, housewife,
425
00:27:59,370 --> 00:28:01,683
and captain of the Isfahan polo team.
426
00:28:04,409 --> 00:28:08,826
(Yavari speaks in foreign language)
427
00:28:14,721 --> 00:28:15,554
[Yavari Interpreter] I come here
428
00:28:15,554 --> 00:28:17,590
twice a week for training.
429
00:28:17,590 --> 00:28:19,653
I've loved horses since I was little,
430
00:28:20,560 --> 00:28:22,530
even before I could talk.
431
00:28:22,530 --> 00:28:25,071
My father had to draw horses for me.
432
00:28:25,071 --> 00:28:28,673
My love of horses is rooted deep within me.
433
00:28:31,870 --> 00:28:35,080
In Europe, polo is known as the favorite sport
434
00:28:35,080 --> 00:28:36,970
of the British nobility.
435
00:28:36,970 --> 00:28:39,790
But it comes from ancient Persia
436
00:28:39,790 --> 00:28:43,690
and was originally meant to train the army's riding skills.
437
00:28:43,690 --> 00:28:45,610
It was only in the 19th century
438
00:28:45,610 --> 00:28:48,163
that the game came to England via India.
439
00:28:57,519 --> 00:29:01,360
[Yavari Interpreter] Polo is very dynamic and energetic.
440
00:29:01,360 --> 00:29:05,780
To me, it's modern and traditional at the same time.
441
00:29:05,780 --> 00:29:08,973
Polo ties both things together for me.
442
00:29:11,010 --> 00:29:14,930
Of course, I have to adapt myself to some things,
443
00:29:14,930 --> 00:29:17,373
but I just love the thrill.
444
00:29:18,390 --> 00:29:21,193
That helps me a lot when I play polo.
445
00:29:26,740 --> 00:29:29,440
In Iran, the traditional sport of polo
446
00:29:29,440 --> 00:29:30,740
is enjoying a Renaissance.
447
00:29:36,009 --> 00:29:38,676
(Nina clapping)
448
00:29:40,878 --> 00:29:43,550
[Yavari Interpreter] It's not surprising to people here
449
00:29:43,550 --> 00:29:44,963
that I play polo.
450
00:29:45,998 --> 00:29:47,463
They think it's great.
451
00:29:52,420 --> 00:29:57,050
If we act modestly and tend to our duties
452
00:29:57,050 --> 00:29:58,813
and wear our hijabs correctly,
453
00:29:59,990 --> 00:30:03,950
why should people be opposed or irritated
454
00:30:03,950 --> 00:30:07,153
or think it's strange that we play this sport?
455
00:30:14,817 --> 00:30:17,670
"Seek out a sport that is part of our culture
456
00:30:17,670 --> 00:30:19,817
and help bring polo back to life."
457
00:30:20,970 --> 00:30:23,880
Iranian religious leader Ayatollah Khomeini
458
00:30:23,880 --> 00:30:25,823
is quoted on public banners.
459
00:30:28,767 --> 00:30:31,350
(upbeat music)
460
00:30:34,670 --> 00:30:36,810
In recent years, skateboarders
461
00:30:36,810 --> 00:30:38,993
have enlivened Isfahan's cityscape.
462
00:30:44,010 --> 00:30:49,010
One of them is 27-year-old Nima Ahmadi, a true pioneer.
463
00:30:56,003 --> 00:30:58,200
[Nima Interpreter] My father died a few years ago.
464
00:30:58,200 --> 00:31:00,530
Since then I've lived alone with my mother.
465
00:31:00,530 --> 00:31:02,560
She's always supported me.
466
00:31:02,560 --> 00:31:05,110
Even when we were financially very badly off,
467
00:31:05,110 --> 00:31:07,660
she bought me a new skateboard and she took care of me
468
00:31:07,660 --> 00:31:09,910
when I was in the hospital with broken bones.
469
00:31:14,756 --> 00:31:16,930
The meeting place and training ground
470
00:31:16,930 --> 00:31:19,510
is the plaza in front of Shanti's shop.
471
00:31:19,510 --> 00:31:21,903
Friendships have formed here over the years.
472
00:31:23,774 --> 00:31:25,738
[Shanti Interpreter] Hi, how are you all good.
473
00:31:25,738 --> 00:31:27,151
[Nima Interpreter] Oh good. And you?
474
00:31:27,151 --> 00:31:29,051
[Shanti Interpreter] So far so good.
475
00:31:32,559 --> 00:31:35,690
[Nima Interpreter] This place here was our playground.
476
00:31:35,690 --> 00:31:36,673
We grew up here.
477
00:31:37,800 --> 00:31:39,350
It's like a second home for me.
478
00:31:40,510 --> 00:31:41,823
I meet my friends here.
479
00:31:43,370 --> 00:31:45,413
It's one of the best spots in Isfahan.
480
00:31:47,220 --> 00:31:49,890
Fortunately, the shopkeepers support us
481
00:31:49,890 --> 00:31:51,753
so we can skate here when we want.
482
00:31:59,080 --> 00:32:00,860
Nima meets his friends at a shop
483
00:32:00,860 --> 00:32:02,563
belonging to Shanti's neighbor,
484
00:32:03,480 --> 00:32:07,180
miniature painter Ali Halik, is a fan of the group
485
00:32:07,180 --> 00:32:09,853
and regularly decorates their boards with drawings.
486
00:32:12,920 --> 00:32:16,353
It's a change of pace for the traditionally trained painter.
487
00:32:20,840 --> 00:32:23,440
Done! Wait, I forgot to sign it.
488
00:32:25,550 --> 00:32:27,400
Every picture is unique.
489
00:32:33,160 --> 00:32:34,253
[Skateboarder In Blue] What do I owe you?
490
00:32:34,253 --> 00:32:36,333
No, forget it. It doesn't matter.
491
00:32:37,179 --> 00:32:39,430
[Skateboarder In Light Gray] Thanks. Very nice.
492
00:32:43,372 --> 00:32:45,723
[Nima Interpreter] It was a pleasure. Bye!
493
00:32:48,050 --> 00:32:49,854
Nice to meet you!
494
00:32:49,854 --> 00:32:51,354
It's a pleasure.
495
00:32:58,330 --> 00:32:59,500
Nima and his friends
496
00:32:59,500 --> 00:33:02,383
have not encountered resistance, on the contrary.
497
00:33:05,437 --> 00:33:07,970
[Nima Interpreter] At first, nobody understood
498
00:33:07,970 --> 00:33:09,650
what we were doing.
499
00:33:09,650 --> 00:33:12,573
No one had ever seen a wooden board with wheels before.
500
00:33:16,152 --> 00:33:19,550
They all wanted to know what it was and how it works,
501
00:33:19,550 --> 00:33:21,150
how we get the board in the air.
502
00:33:26,984 --> 00:33:29,880
Then we started showing people how it works,
503
00:33:29,880 --> 00:33:33,040
and right away they were all enthusiastic.
504
00:33:33,040 --> 00:33:34,373
Nobody made fun of us.
505
00:33:38,310 --> 00:33:40,893
(upbeat music)
506
00:33:45,060 --> 00:33:48,950
Today, there are about 30 skaters in Isfahan.
507
00:33:48,950 --> 00:33:52,723
The scene is still small, but they have great ambitions.
508
00:33:56,553 --> 00:33:58,230
[Nima Interpreter] My greatest wish
509
00:33:58,230 --> 00:34:00,633
is to make skateboarding popular in Isfahan.
510
00:34:02,451 --> 00:34:05,890
I definitely want to continue to develop myself further
511
00:34:05,890 --> 00:34:08,410
and hopefully one day, I'll even be able
512
00:34:08,410 --> 00:34:09,660
to make a living from it.
513
00:34:15,300 --> 00:34:17,470
For Nima, skateboarding is more
514
00:34:17,470 --> 00:34:19,423
than just a way to pass the time.
515
00:34:22,435 --> 00:34:25,000
[Nima Interpreter] Skateboarding has helped me a lot.
516
00:34:25,000 --> 00:34:29,110
I've learned a lot about life: to fall down and get back up,
517
00:34:29,110 --> 00:34:30,520
to bounce back.
518
00:34:30,520 --> 00:34:34,223
It still helps me today to assert myself and reach my goals.
519
00:34:35,160 --> 00:34:36,800
In Iran, people have learned
520
00:34:36,800 --> 00:34:40,330
to grasp opportunities to benefit from the small freedoms
521
00:34:40,330 --> 00:34:41,480
to achieve their goals.
522
00:34:50,941 --> 00:34:52,320
[Shanti Interpreter] My parents always told me
523
00:34:52,320 --> 00:34:55,380
what I should do or avoid doing.
524
00:34:55,380 --> 00:34:57,900
They always dictated my behavior.
525
00:34:57,900 --> 00:35:00,300
My family's reputation is at stake.
526
00:35:00,300 --> 00:35:03,300
After all, I'm Ghafarian's grandson.
527
00:35:03,300 --> 00:35:05,663
Everyone in Isfahan knows my grandfather.
528
00:35:09,120 --> 00:35:11,540
So I always had to behave respectfully
529
00:35:11,540 --> 00:35:13,140
and I couldn't step out of line.
530
00:35:15,270 --> 00:35:17,393
That's how it is in a traditional family.
531
00:35:19,220 --> 00:35:20,810
Things continue like that,
532
00:35:20,810 --> 00:35:23,920
and at some point when you're 26 or 27,
533
00:35:23,920 --> 00:35:26,623
you're suddenly an adult and part of this world,
534
00:35:29,390 --> 00:35:30,883
whether you like it or not.
535
00:35:35,770 --> 00:35:37,330
In the south of Isfahan
536
00:35:37,330 --> 00:35:41,083
lies the Takht-e Foulad, the oldest cemetery in the city.
537
00:35:42,050 --> 00:35:43,360
For eight centuries,
538
00:35:43,360 --> 00:35:45,980
the great granddaughters and sons of Isfahan
539
00:35:45,980 --> 00:35:48,223
have found their final resting place here.
540
00:35:49,449 --> 00:35:51,150
In Islamic culture,
541
00:35:51,150 --> 00:35:54,460
the deceased are only wrapped in a shroud for burial.
542
00:35:54,460 --> 00:35:57,160
Their graves point towards Mecca.
543
00:35:57,160 --> 00:35:59,827
(pensive music)
544
00:36:04,740 --> 00:36:06,860
The Ghafarian's ancestors are buried
545
00:36:06,860 --> 00:36:08,363
in one of the mausoleums.
546
00:36:10,650 --> 00:36:13,193
Father and son go there every Thursday.
547
00:36:25,114 --> 00:36:26,110
[Rameen Interpreter] You get a mystic
548
00:36:26,110 --> 00:36:27,503
spiritual feeling here.
549
00:36:28,840 --> 00:36:32,090
This is exactly the reason the Isfahaners come here.
550
00:36:32,090 --> 00:36:33,370
They visit their forefathers
551
00:36:33,370 --> 00:36:35,590
and the city's great personalities,
552
00:36:35,590 --> 00:36:38,400
anticipating their spiritual assistance.
553
00:36:38,400 --> 00:36:40,250
We remember the past when we come here.
554
00:36:40,250 --> 00:36:41,943
So it comes alive for us.
555
00:36:50,988 --> 00:36:52,210
[Shanti Interpreter] Everyone has a memory
556
00:36:52,210 --> 00:36:54,093
of one or more of the deceased,
557
00:36:54,950 --> 00:36:58,673
like a kind of biography of the people, like a book.
558
00:37:00,440 --> 00:37:03,240
You see their faces in your thoughts
559
00:37:03,240 --> 00:37:05,483
and remember all the good things they did.
560
00:37:10,060 --> 00:37:11,340
I find peace in this place
561
00:37:11,340 --> 00:37:14,760
because I know I can find answers to questions
562
00:37:14,760 --> 00:37:19,493
about my own life here if I think about their experiences.
563
00:37:33,350 --> 00:37:35,340
It's early evening.
564
00:37:35,340 --> 00:37:37,950
Twilight casts the city's famous bridges
565
00:37:37,950 --> 00:37:39,503
in a picturesque light.
566
00:37:45,670 --> 00:37:49,390
The weekend in Iran begins on Thursday evening.
567
00:37:49,390 --> 00:37:51,763
Most shops are closed until Saturday.
568
00:37:53,317 --> 00:37:58,053
Isfahan is also a popular destination for Iranian tourists.
569
00:38:01,410 --> 00:38:04,253
Of course, Shanty's store is still open.
570
00:38:05,100 --> 00:38:06,900
He's in the red at the moment
571
00:38:06,900 --> 00:38:10,063
and he hopes customers might stray over in his direction.
572
00:38:14,460 --> 00:38:18,170
Rameen Ghafarian regularly visits the zurkhaneh,
573
00:38:18,170 --> 00:38:20,290
the house of strength.
574
00:38:20,290 --> 00:38:22,020
The zurkhaneh is a men's sport
575
00:38:22,020 --> 00:38:24,670
that goes back to pre-Islamic times.
576
00:38:24,670 --> 00:38:27,810
Even today, these traditional sports clubs
577
00:38:27,810 --> 00:38:31,562
can be found in all the larger Iranian cities.
578
00:38:31,562 --> 00:38:34,970
(man drumming)
579
00:38:34,970 --> 00:38:39,520
The men practice strengths, coordination, and endurance.
580
00:38:39,520 --> 00:38:42,450
The zurkhaneh's master of ceremonies, the morshed,
581
00:38:42,450 --> 00:38:43,523
sets the tone.
582
00:38:46,807 --> 00:38:48,620
[Rameen Interpreter] When I was here for the first time
583
00:38:48,620 --> 00:38:51,840
as a small boy, I was excited about the men in the ring
584
00:38:51,840 --> 00:38:53,680
and the banging of the drum.
585
00:38:53,680 --> 00:38:56,060
I'd never heard anything like it.
586
00:38:56,060 --> 00:38:57,880
I found it very stirring.
587
00:38:57,880 --> 00:39:01,300
And from that moment on, I was fascinated by this sport.
588
00:39:01,300 --> 00:39:03,650
It's a sport you can quickly fall in love with.
589
00:39:05,222 --> 00:39:07,750
(man drumming)
590
00:39:07,750 --> 00:39:09,370
The morshed leads the athletes
591
00:39:09,370 --> 00:39:12,093
through the exercises with drumming and singing.
592
00:39:15,080 --> 00:39:18,713
At the beginning, there are loosening and warmup exercises.
593
00:39:20,520 --> 00:39:23,453
Later, comes endurance and strength training.
594
00:39:24,973 --> 00:39:27,806
(string rattling)
595
00:39:36,300 --> 00:39:39,180
The juggling of clubs weighing up to 10 kilos
596
00:39:39,180 --> 00:39:40,713
requires great skill.
597
00:39:45,920 --> 00:39:48,230
Rameen Ghafarian likes the zurkhaneh
598
00:39:48,230 --> 00:39:51,113
not only because it emphasizes physical culture.
599
00:39:58,734 --> 00:40:00,110
[Rameen Interpreter] Actually this kind of sports
600
00:40:00,110 --> 00:40:03,223
stands for gallantry, generosity, and helpfulness.
601
00:40:05,030 --> 00:40:07,400
These are the virtues which led my forefathers
602
00:40:07,400 --> 00:40:08,573
and me to come here.
603
00:40:10,377 --> 00:40:13,027
And I think these old traditions should be preserved,
604
00:40:14,330 --> 00:40:17,513
just as they were passed down from generation to generation.
605
00:40:21,431 --> 00:40:24,014
(man drumming)
606
00:40:42,488 --> 00:40:45,238
(men applauding)
607
00:40:47,000 --> 00:40:49,417
(calm music)
608
00:40:50,420 --> 00:40:54,153
It's Friday, the Sunday of the Muslim world.
609
00:40:57,450 --> 00:41:02,090
Schools, universities, most stores and government offices
610
00:41:02,090 --> 00:41:03,173
are closed today.
611
00:41:06,000 --> 00:41:09,450
According to the Koran, Friday is the day of gathering,
612
00:41:09,450 --> 00:41:11,293
prayer and refreshment.
613
00:41:12,930 --> 00:41:16,350
In the cities, more and more traditions are changing
614
00:41:16,350 --> 00:41:19,030
and most families enjoy going out to gardens
615
00:41:19,030 --> 00:41:22,203
and the countryside to escape the hectic city life.
616
00:41:29,700 --> 00:41:32,580
Shanti and Nina also decide to go on a picnic
617
00:41:32,580 --> 00:41:34,520
to enrich their body and soul
618
00:41:34,520 --> 00:41:37,720
just before a new week of hard work.
619
00:41:37,720 --> 00:41:40,200
All that's missing is the bread.
620
00:41:40,200 --> 00:41:43,820
Sangak was originally the bread of the Persian army today.
621
00:41:43,820 --> 00:41:46,270
Today, the flat bread baked in wood ovens
622
00:41:46,270 --> 00:41:49,230
is an inherent part of Iranian cooking,
623
00:41:49,230 --> 00:41:52,083
but it tastes best freshly baked.
624
00:41:59,796 --> 00:42:01,010
[Shanti Interpreter] Normally, men go out
625
00:42:01,010 --> 00:42:04,253
on Friday morning to buy bread for their families.
626
00:42:06,450 --> 00:42:08,830
It's especially popular with casseroles
627
00:42:08,830 --> 00:42:12,393
and is definitely the oldest and tastiest food in Iran.
628
00:42:17,610 --> 00:42:19,420
Warm flatbread in hand,
629
00:42:19,420 --> 00:42:22,523
they set out for the south towards Mount Soffeh.
630
00:42:28,300 --> 00:42:31,170
The limestone massive 600 meters high
631
00:42:31,170 --> 00:42:33,810
has been a popular destination for Isfahaners
632
00:42:33,810 --> 00:42:37,423
since cable car started operating here 10 years ago.
633
00:42:38,860 --> 00:42:41,260
Nina and Shanti get in a cabin.
634
00:42:41,260 --> 00:42:44,913
And in just a few minutes, they reach the summit station.
635
00:42:46,440 --> 00:42:49,343
[Nina Interpreter] That guy's totally going crazy.
636
00:42:50,383 --> 00:42:53,216
(Shanti laughing)
637
00:42:59,407 --> 00:43:02,240
(people clapping)
638
00:43:06,730 --> 00:43:09,167
On weekends, many residents of Isfahan
639
00:43:09,167 --> 00:43:12,193
and their families amuse themselves outside of the city.
640
00:43:13,540 --> 00:43:15,740
Although they don't want to be seen on camera,
641
00:43:15,740 --> 00:43:17,585
the fun is audible.
642
00:43:17,585 --> 00:43:20,418
(Shanti laughing)
643
00:43:22,487 --> 00:43:25,404
(people whistling)
644
00:43:29,640 --> 00:43:32,660
In Iran, young couples usually go on a picnic
645
00:43:32,660 --> 00:43:35,420
on their own after getting married.
646
00:43:35,420 --> 00:43:38,670
Fortunately, Nina and Shanti are engaged,
647
00:43:38,670 --> 00:43:41,423
which allows them to go to places on their own.
648
00:43:43,261 --> 00:43:44,903
[Nina Interpreter] Maybe you can treat it.
649
00:43:45,880 --> 00:43:47,280
Maybe it's better like that.
650
00:43:48,917 --> 00:43:51,267
[Shanti Interpreter] What a delicious tomato.
651
00:43:55,109 --> 00:43:59,086
[Nina Interpreter] Shanti, look! There!
652
00:43:59,086 --> 00:44:02,901
[Shanti Interpreter] Wow! (laughing)
653
00:44:02,901 --> 00:44:05,084
(Shanti whistling)
654
00:44:05,084 --> 00:44:07,751
(both laughing)
655
00:44:08,700 --> 00:44:09,533
[Nina Interpreter] Of course we're just
656
00:44:09,533 --> 00:44:10,710
starting our relationship.
657
00:44:12,080 --> 00:44:13,480
We've been engaged for two months.
658
00:44:13,480 --> 00:44:16,080
And of course we'd like to spend more time together.
659
00:44:17,660 --> 00:44:19,543
But it's hard because of his work.
660
00:44:22,000 --> 00:44:24,000
On Friday, we have more time for each other.
661
00:44:24,000 --> 00:44:26,243
During the week, we're not together so much.
662
00:44:33,122 --> 00:44:37,310
[Shanti Interpreter] We want to plan our lives.
663
00:44:37,310 --> 00:44:40,750
So I work a lot and hard
664
00:44:40,750 --> 00:44:43,073
to finance a roof over our heads.
665
00:44:45,310 --> 00:44:48,113
Luckily, Nina leaves me lots of space.
666
00:44:50,950 --> 00:44:52,893
But it's hard to find an apartment,
667
00:44:55,000 --> 00:44:56,763
especially for young people.
668
00:44:59,720 --> 00:45:01,243
Renting isn't easy either.
669
00:45:05,479 --> 00:45:07,180
That's why I'm trying very hard
670
00:45:07,180 --> 00:45:09,933
to achieve a stable livelihood in a year or two.
671
00:45:19,046 --> 00:45:23,463
I want to create stability. Also, to make Nina happy.
672
00:45:28,434 --> 00:45:31,783
The 30 year old set himself ambitious goals:
673
00:45:35,550 --> 00:45:37,240
Nina we'll probably need to do
674
00:45:37,240 --> 00:45:41,000
without her Shanti for a while, since in the future as well
675
00:45:41,000 --> 00:45:43,693
they'll only be able to enjoy Fridays together.
676
00:45:52,372 --> 00:45:54,322
[Shanti Interpreter] One, two, three.
677
00:45:57,330 --> 00:45:58,873
I like this one.
678
00:46:02,990 --> 00:46:04,950
In Isfahan, the going price
679
00:46:04,950 --> 00:46:07,250
for a basic three to four room apartment
680
00:46:07,250 --> 00:46:09,703
is the equivalent of 1,000 euros.
681
00:46:10,650 --> 00:46:12,890
Shanti will have to sell a lot of rugs
682
00:46:12,890 --> 00:46:14,513
to be able to pay that much.
683
00:46:16,820 --> 00:46:19,270
On Saturday, the undecided customers
684
00:46:19,270 --> 00:46:20,723
have returned to his shop.
685
00:46:21,690 --> 00:46:24,090
Shanti must use this second chance,
686
00:46:24,090 --> 00:46:25,660
since he won't get a third one.
687
00:46:25,660 --> 00:46:27,640
He attackted India.
688
00:46:27,640 --> 00:46:30,200
He left Iran with horse.
689
00:46:30,200 --> 00:46:32,420
But when he won in that war,
690
00:46:32,420 --> 00:46:34,430
he backed with elephant to here.
691
00:46:34,430 --> 00:46:36,670
From that time, food of elephant
692
00:46:36,670 --> 00:46:39,633
is getting symbol of victory, he's getting symbol of hero.
693
00:46:45,620 --> 00:46:46,709
Done.
694
00:46:46,709 --> 00:46:50,870
Shanti makes the sale earning about a 1,000 euros.
695
00:46:50,870 --> 00:46:54,143
This covers at least a third of his monthly fixed costs.
696
00:47:05,307 --> 00:47:07,300
[Shanti Interpreter] Things went pretty well today.
697
00:47:07,300 --> 00:47:09,880
We had a number of customers here
698
00:47:09,880 --> 00:47:12,783
and I made them a good offer for a beautiful carpet.
699
00:47:14,000 --> 00:47:15,663
They left my shop satisfied.
700
00:47:17,010 --> 00:47:19,713
That feels good after such a hard day's work.
701
00:47:20,620 --> 00:47:21,470
Really good.
702
00:47:25,753 --> 00:47:30,253
So, is there a future in carpet sales?
703
00:47:33,712 --> 00:47:36,090
[Rameen Interpreter] Our culture and art is very valuable,
704
00:47:36,090 --> 00:47:38,810
which you can see by looking at our carpets.
705
00:47:38,810 --> 00:47:41,640
We communicate with the world through our carpets.
706
00:47:41,640 --> 00:47:44,590
I'm glad I've been able to teach my son so much about them.
707
00:47:47,330 --> 00:47:48,790
But he knows he'll need more
708
00:47:48,790 --> 00:47:51,963
than just his father's carpet knowledge to be successful.
709
00:47:59,282 --> 00:48:00,350
[Shanti Interpreter] We're young
710
00:48:00,350 --> 00:48:02,730
and have a lot more energy than the elders.
711
00:48:02,730 --> 00:48:04,250
We give it our all.
712
00:48:04,250 --> 00:48:07,020
And even if the chances are low that someone will buy,
713
00:48:07,020 --> 00:48:08,593
I keep trying over and over.
714
00:48:15,480 --> 00:48:18,573
Shanti was prepared for it not to be easy.
715
00:48:27,853 --> 00:48:29,970
1,000-year-old Persian culture
716
00:48:29,970 --> 00:48:31,993
is present here on every corner.
717
00:48:33,400 --> 00:48:35,560
And yet many young Isfaharners
718
00:48:35,560 --> 00:48:37,680
have their eyes on the future.
719
00:48:37,680 --> 00:48:39,964
Everything seems possible.
720
00:48:39,964 --> 00:48:43,131
(bright dreamy music)
721
00:48:52,720 --> 00:48:55,920
For Rameen Ghafarian, the parental generation
722
00:48:55,920 --> 00:48:57,720
still plays an important role.
723
00:49:05,001 --> 00:49:06,370
[Rameen Interpreter] If we neglect our children,
724
00:49:06,370 --> 00:49:07,790
we will lose them.
725
00:49:07,790 --> 00:49:09,930
We cannot allow this to happen.
726
00:49:09,930 --> 00:49:11,990
We must pass down our experience to them
727
00:49:11,990 --> 00:49:15,190
without dictating what they should or should not do.
728
00:49:15,190 --> 00:49:18,360
We should give them their freedom, but cautiously,
729
00:49:18,360 --> 00:49:20,033
and they must be open with us.
730
00:49:23,140 --> 00:49:26,313
Yet, not everybody waits for permission.
731
00:49:27,360 --> 00:49:30,053
Many take their happiness into their own hands.
732
00:49:40,179 --> 00:49:42,660
[Nima Interpreter] We skaters are part of society
733
00:49:42,660 --> 00:49:44,160
that isn't afraid of anything.
734
00:49:46,050 --> 00:49:47,950
We do what we want
735
00:49:47,950 --> 00:49:50,750
and don't start whining if we break a bone now and then.
736
00:49:51,740 --> 00:49:54,803
That separates us from other young people.
737
00:49:58,580 --> 00:50:01,600
Nima and friends dare to do things,
738
00:50:01,600 --> 00:50:04,333
even if it's only to have fun skateboarding.
739
00:50:07,060 --> 00:50:09,160
It's not always easy for young people
740
00:50:09,160 --> 00:50:11,850
to manage the balancing act between religion,
741
00:50:11,850 --> 00:50:13,873
tradition and modernity.
742
00:50:20,329 --> 00:50:22,320
[Shanti Interpreter] A problem today is that the children
743
00:50:22,320 --> 00:50:24,313
can really do what they want.
744
00:50:26,400 --> 00:50:29,063
This leads to difficulties between the generations.
745
00:50:31,990 --> 00:50:34,170
Sure, the young generation is free
746
00:50:34,170 --> 00:50:36,770
and they get everything they want from the internet.
747
00:50:39,839 --> 00:50:43,150
But in contrast to their parents, they have no experience.
748
00:50:43,150 --> 00:50:46,653
And without that, you quickly reach your limits.
749
00:50:49,410 --> 00:50:50,743
That's the way it is.
750
00:50:56,330 --> 00:50:58,350
{\an8}Isfahan is half the world,
751
00:50:58,350 --> 00:51:00,680
{\an8}according to an old saying.
752
00:51:00,680 --> 00:51:03,460
It will be interesting to see what kind of world
753
00:51:03,460 --> 00:51:06,280
today's courageous and passionate Isfahaners
754
00:51:06,280 --> 00:51:08,604
will create in the future.
755
00:51:08,604 --> 00:51:11,187
(dreamy music)
58478
Can't find what you're looking for?
Get subtitles in any language from opensubtitles.com, and translate them here.