Original subtitles

IT’S WHERE HUMANS FIRST SET FOOT ON AMERICAN SOIL.

A WILD LAND

\hTHAT’S BEEN BECKONING TO OUTSIDERS EVER SINCE.

WHERE LAKES GLISTEN

\h\h\hLIKE WINDOWS INTO PARALLEL WORLDS,

\h\hGIANT CREATURES RISE FROM THE DEPTH,

AND OTHERS THRIVE IN ITS ARCTIC AIR.

FOR CENTURIES,

THOUSANDS HAVE BEEN ANSWERING \h\hALASKA’S CALL OF THE WILD.

IN THE 18th CENTURY,

\hIT WAS RUSSIAN TRADERS SEEKING RICHES FROM FUR.

A HUNDRED YEARS LATER,

HOPEFUL PROSPECTORS WERE HIKING UP A TRAIL

KNOWN AS "THE MEANEST 32 MILES IN THE WORLD."

AND TODAY,

MODERN-DAY TREASURE SEEKERS ARE ARRIVING BY HELICOPTER,

TO SEARCH FOR COPPER, \h\hSILVER, AND GOLD.

MANY COME TO ALASKA JUST TO BE LEFT ALONE.

OTHERS, TO UNLOCK THE SECRETS \h\h\h\hOF OUR WARMING PLANET,

OR TO SOAR ACROSS THE LANDSCAPES

THAT THEY JUST CAN’T FIND \h\h\hIN THE LOWER 48.

\h\h\h\h\hBUT ALASKA’S POSTCARD-PERFECT WILDERNESS

HOLDS GREAT DANGER, TOO.

IT WAS HERE THAT A YOUNG SURVIVALIST MET HIS FATE

AFTER CROSSING A RIVER \h\h\hOF NO RETURN,

\h\h\h\h\hAND WHERE ONE COUPLE’S EXPERIMENT

LIVING WITH AN APEX PREDATOR

CAME TO A GRISLY END.

\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hBUT TODAY, SOME STILL DARE TO TRY AND CROSS

\h\hA THOUSAND MILES OF FROZEN WILDERNESS,

\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hHOPING TO WIN "THE LAST GREAT RACE ON EARTH."

\h\h\hALL THIS TO ANSWER ALASKA’S CALL OF THE WILD.

\h\h\h\h\hEVERY YEAR, ALASKA’S CALL OF THE WILD

LURES A FEW RECKLESS ADVENTURERS FURTHER INTO DANGER

THAN THEY’RE READY TO GO.

\h\h\hAND THEY’RE NOT ALL CLIMBING THE STATE’S SNOW-COVERED PEAKS.

\h\hPERIL OFTEN AWAITS THOSE WHO EXPLORE ALASKA’S VALLEYS, TOO.

IN 1992, A YOUNG SURVIVALIST NAMED CHRISTOPHER McCANDLESS

\h\h\h\h\hHITCHHIKED INTO ALASKA ON A QUEST FOR SELF-DISCOVERY,

INSPIRED BY WRITERS HENRY DAVID THOREAU

AND JACK LONDON.

\h\h\h\h\h\h\hON APRIL 28th, HIS LAST RIDE DROPPED HIM OFF

\h\h\h\hAT THE BEGINNING OF A RUGGED WILDERNESS ROAD

KNOWN AS THE STAMPEDE TRAIL.

IT WAS FIRST BLAZED ACROSS \hTHIS VALLEY IN THE 1930s

\h\hBY A PROSPECTOR NAMED EARL PILGRIM.

THIRTY YEARS LATER,

\h\hTHE STATE OF ALASKA TURNED PILGRIM’S TRAIL INTO A ROAD.

BUT A BRIDGE WAS NEVER BUILT

OVER ONE THE VALLEY’S \hBIGGEST OBSTACLES:

THE WILD TEKLANIKA RIVER.

\h\hWHEN McCANDLESS FORDED THE TEKLANIKA ON FOOT THAT APRIL,

THE WATER LEVEL WAS STILL LOW.

\h\h\h\h\h\h\hSNOW AND ICE ON THE SURROUNDING MOUNTAINS

HADN’T YET THAWED.

HE MADE HIS WAY ACROSS

\h\hAND CONTINUED WEST ON THE OLD MINING TRAIL,

\h\h\h\h\hHOPING TO WALK ALL THE WAY TO THE SHORES OF THE BERING SEA

WHILE LIVING OFF THE LAND.

BUT AS HE REACHED THIS CLEARING, HE DISCOVERED BUS 142.

WORKERS BUILDING THE ROAD

\h\h\hHAD USED THIS 1946 INTERNATIONAL HARVESTER BUS

AS A MOBILE SHELTER.

McCANDLESS ALSO DECIDED TO USE IT AS HIS BASE

AS HE PREPARED FOR HIS JOURNEY \h\h\h\h\hDEEPER INTO THE WILD.

\hHE ARRIVED HERE WITH NOT MUCH MORE THAN A FEW BOOKS,

A 10-POUND BAG OF RICE,

A GUN,

AND 400 ROUNDS OF AMMUNITION.

\h\h\h\h\h\h\hOVER THE NEXT FEW WEEKS HE MADE FORAYS ACROSS THE VALLEY

\h\hTO TEST HOW FAR INTO THE WILDERNESS

HE WAS WILLING TO GO,

\h\h\h\hAND TO FIND FOOD THAT COULD KEEP HIM ALIVE.

HE SHOT AND ATE SQUIRRELS, \h\hPORCUPINES, AND QUAIL,

AND EVEN A MOOSE.

BUT WHEN THE MOOSE MEAT SPOILED \h\h\h\h\h\hBEFORE HE COULD CURE IT,

\h\hMcCANDLESS BEGAN TO REALIZE HE MIGHT BE IN OVER HIS HEAD.

\h\hAFTER TWO MONTHS IN ISOLATION, HE DECIDED IT WAS TIME TO LEAVE.

\h\h\h\h\hBUT WHEN HE HEADED BACK DOWN THE STAMPEDE TRAIL,

\h\h\hHE DISCOVERED HE HAD WAITED TOO LONG.

\h\h\hSUMMER SNOWMELT HAD FLOODED THE RIVER

THAT HE HAD FORDED \h\hIN THE SPRING.

\h\h\h\hTHE TEKLANIKA WAS NOW A RAGING TORRENT.

McCANDLESS KNEW THAT IF HE WADED INTO ITS DARK TURBULENT WATERS,

HE WOULD BE SWEPT AWAY \h\h\hTO HIS DEATH.

\h\h\h\hSO HE RETURNED TO THE SAFETY OF BUS 142,

\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hWITH NO CHOICE BUT TO CONTINUE HIS EXPERIMENT

IN WILDERNESS SURVIVAL.

BUT OVER THE NEXT FEW WEEKS,

McCANDLESS STARTED RUNNING OUT \h\h\h\h\h\h\hOF THINGS TO EAT.

HIS BODY GREW WEAKER AND WEAKER.

SOME SAY HE MAY ALSO HAVE BEEN \h\h\h\h\hPOISONED BY POTATO SEEDS

THAT HE ATE IN HIS DESPERATION \h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hTO STAY ALIVE.

\hSLOWLY, HE BEGAN TO STARVE TO DEATH.

AS HE FADED AWAY,

\hMcCANDLESS SCRIBBLED HIS THOUGHTS AND EMOTIONS

INTO A DIARY,

\h\h\h\h\h\h\hIN BRIEF NOTES ABOUT HIS LONELINESS, HUNGER,

AND GROWING FEAR OF DEATH.

"EXTREMELY WEAK," HE WROTE

IN ONE OF HIS LAST ENTRIES \h\h\h\h\hON JULY 30th.

"MUCH TROUBLE JUST TO STAND UP.

STARVING.

GREAT JEOPARDY."

IN HIS FINAL ENTRY, \hMcCANDLESS WROTE,

"I HAVE HAD A HAPPY LIFE \h\hAND THANK THE LORD.

\h\h\h\h\hGOODBYE, AND MAY GOD BLESS ALL."

HUNTERS DISCOVERED HIS BODY \h\h\h\h\hINSIDE BUS 142

A FEW WEEKS LATER.

HIS JOURNAL WAS BY HIS SIDE.

THE STORY IT TOLD

INSPIRED JOHN KRAKAUER’S \h\hBEST-SELLING BOOK,

"INTO THE WILD,"

AND A MOVIE BY SEAN PENN.

THEY TRANSFORMED THE WAYWARD \h\hHIKER’S FOLLY INTO LEGEND

AND TURNED BUS 142 INTO A MAGNET FOR MISFITS AND DREAMERS.

AS MANY AS 100 PILGRIMS COME HERE SOME SUMMERS

\h\h\hTO SEE WHERE McCANDLESS PERISHED.

\h\h\h\hMANY DON’T SEEM TO REALIZE THEY’RE RISKING THE SAME FATE.

IN 2010, A WOMAN WHO HAD COME \hALL THE WAY FROM SWITZERLAND

TO VISIT THE BUS

DROWNED IN THE TEKLANIKA

IN THE VERY SPOT

\h\hWHERE McCANDLESS TRIED TO CROSS IN ’92.

THAT HASN’T STOPPED A STEADY \hSTREAM OF CURIOSITY SEEKERS

\hFROM MAKING THE TREK TO SEE THE ABANDONED BUS.

THEY RISK EVERYTHING

\h\h\hJUST TO EXPERIENCE ALASKA’S CALL OF THE WILD,

\hJUST AS OTHERS HAVE FOR THOUSANDS OF YEARS.

SCIENTISTS BELIEVE

\h\hTHAT THE FIRST HUMANS TO SET EYES ON THE ALASKAN WILDERNESS

ARRIVED HERE AS EARLY AS 20,000 YEARS AGO.

\h\h\h\h\hTHEY CAME FROM WHAT’S NOW SIBERIA

\h\h\h\h\hAND TRAVELED EAST ON FOOT FOR MORE THAN A THOUSAND MILES,

\h\hACROSS WHAT IS KNOWN AS THE BERING LAND BRIDGE,

OR BERINGIA,

\h\hTHAT ONCE LINKED ASIA AND NORTH AMERICA.

\h\h\hBUT AT THE END OF THE LAST ICE AGE,

\h\h\h\hTHE WATER FROM MASSIVE MELTING GLACIERS

\h\h\hCOVERED BERINGIA WITH THE BERING AND CHUKCHI SEAS.

THOSE EARLY TRAVELERS BECAME THE FIRST HUMANS

\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hTO EXPLORE THE NORTH AMERICAN CONTINENT.

THEIR DESCENDANTS

WOULD EVENTUALLY MAKE IT \h\h\hALL THE WAY DOWN

TO THE TIP OF SOUTH AMERICA.

\h\hTODAY, ALASKA IS STILL HOME TO SOME OF THEIR CLOSEST KIN.

\h\h\hHERE ON ADMIRALTY ISLAND, IN THE LITTLE TOWN OF ANGOON,

MEMBERS OF THE TLINGIT BEAR CLAN STILL LIVE IN A SPOT

THEIR PEOPLE HAVE CALLED HOME \h\h\h\hFOR THOUSANDS OF YEARS.

\h\h\hSOME CONTINUE TO MAKE THEIR LIVING

BY HUNTING AND FISHING,

JUST AS THEIR ANCESTORS DID.

\h\h\h\h\h\hANCIENT TLINGIT STORIES TELL OF A WORLD FULL OF SPIRITS

AND OF A FIGURE CALLED RAVEN

THAT GAVE THEM MANY OF THEIR TRADITIONS.

BUT IN THE 18th CENTURY,

SOME AMBITIOUS NEWCOMERS \h\h\h\hFROM THE WEST

\h\h\h\h\h\hTURNED THE TLINGIT’S TRADITIONAL WORLD UPSIDE DOWN.

\hRUSSIANS BEGAN SETTLING ALASKA’S SHORES IN 1784,

\h\hON A SEARCH FOR PELTS FOR THE EUROPEAN FUR TRADE

AND NEW TERRITORY FOR RUSSIA’S CZAR.

IN 1799 THEY ARRIVED HERE,

IN THE TLINGIT COMMUNITY \h\h\h\hOF SHEE ATIKA,

\h\h\h\h\h\h\hNOW THE SITE OF THE ALASKAN TOWN OF SITKA.

\h\h\hAFTER TWO YEARS OF UNEASY COEXISTENCE

\hTHE TLINGIT PEOPLE TURNED ON THE RUSSIANS,

\h\hKILLING MOST OF THEM AND DRIVING THE REST AWAY.

IN 1804, THE RUSSIANS RETURNED

\hAND WENT TO WAR WITH THE TLINGIT.

HERE IN SHEE ATIKA,

MEMBERS OF THE TRIBE STOOD THEIR GROUND INSIDE A FORT,

ON A SITE THAT’S NOW MARKED BY THIS SINGLE TOTEM POLE.

AFTER A SIX-DAY SIEGE,

THE RUSSIANS FINALLY FORCED \h\h\h\h\hTHEIR WAY IN,

\h\h\h\h\h\hONLY TO DISCOVER THAT THE TLINGIT HAD ESCAPED

UNDER THE COVER OF DARKNESS.

\h\hTHE VICTORIOUS RUSSIANS RENAMED THE TLINGIT VILLAGE

"NEW ARCHANGEL."

\hFOR THE NEXT 60 YEARS, IT SERVED AS THE CAPITAL

\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hOF RUSSIA’S GROWING NORTH AMERICAN EMPIRE,

WHICH STRETCHED ALL THE WAY DOWN TO SAN FRANCISCO.

BUT IN THE 1860s, CZAR ALEXANDER II

\hDECIDED TO SELL ALASKA TO RAISE SOME EXTRA CASH.

HE FOUND A BUYER

IN U.S. SECRETARY OF STATE \h\h\h\hWILLIAM SEWARD,

WHO AGREED TO PURCHASE IT \h\h\h\hSIGHT UNSEEN.

ON OCTOBER 18, 1867, \h\h\hHERE IN SITKA,

ALASKA WAS OFFICIALLY \h\h\h\hTRANSFERRED

TO THE UNITED STATES.

AT A PRICE OF JUST OVER \h\h\h\h$7 MILLION,

IT WAS QUITE A BARGAIN, \h\hEVEN AT THE TIME.

THAT DIDN’T STOP CRITICS WHO HAD NEVER SEEN ALASKA

\hFROM DUBBING IT "SEWARD’S FOLLY."

\h\h\h\h\h\hBUT THOSE WHO’D ACTUALLY BEEN HERE

KNEW THE SECRETARY OF STATE HAD MADE A VERY SHREWD DEAL INDEED.

\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hCOVERING MORE THAN A HALF A MILLION SQUARE MILES--

AN AREA TWICE AS LARGE \h\h\h\hAS TEXAS--

IT INCLUDES SOME OF THE WILDEST \h\h\h\hAND MOST DRAMATIC LANDSCAPE

IN THE NATION.

FROM PRISTINE FJORDS,

\h\h\hWHERE TOWERING MOUNTAINS TUMBLE RIGHT DOWN TO THE SEA,

TO AN ISLAND WHERE THE LARGEST \h\h\h\h\h\hBROWN BEARS ON EARTH

GATHER TO FEAST,

\h\hTO MILE AFTER MILE OF REMOTE INLAND TUNDRA,

TO THE HIGHEST PEAK \hIN NORTH AMERICA,

AN ICY WORLD

\h\hTHAT ONLY THE HARDIEST ADVENTURERS DARE TO ENTER.

IT’S EASY TO SEE

\h\h\h\h\h\hHOW GETTING ALL THIS FOR JUST A FEW MILLION DOLLARS

\h\h\h\h\h\hWAS LIKELY ONE OF THE BEST INVESTMENTS

THE UNITED STATES HAS EVER MADE.

ALASKA HAS BEEN A STUNNING JEWEL IN AMERICA’S CROWN EVER SINCE.

ALMOST 40 YEARS LATER, IN 1906,

\h\h\h\hTHE CAPITAL OF THE ALASKAN TERRITORY WAS MOVED FROM SITKA

TO A BOOMING MINING TOWN \h\h\hON THE MAINLAND,

KNOWN AS JUNEAU.

IN 1912,

\hA NEW MANSION WAS BUILT HERE FOR THE TERRITORIAL GOVERNOR,

\h\h\hON THIS BLUFF OVERLOOKING DOWNTOWN.

WITH 14,400 SQUARE FEET TO ROAM,

IT WAS DESIGNED TO SHINE \h\h\h\hLIKE A BEACON

OVER THE ALASKAN TERRITORY

\h\hAT A TIME WHEN MOST PEOPLE UP HERE

WERE STILL LIVING IN MINER’S CABINS.

STRANGELY ENOUGH,

\hTHERE ARE NO ROADS IN OR OUT OF JUNEAU,

MAKING IT THE ONLY U.S. CAPITAL \h\hTHAT’S NOT ACCESSIBLE BY CAR.

\hFOR THOUSANDS OF TOURISTS WHO ARRIVE HERE EACH SPRING

\h\h\h\hON A FLEET OF GIANT CRUISE SHIPS,

\hJUNEAU’S ISOLATION IS PART OF ITS CHARM.

BUT THERE’S SOMETHING ELSE THAT \hMAKES ALASKA’S CAPITAL UNIQUE.

SOAR OVER THE GREEN HILLS \h\h\hJUST ABOVE TOWN,

\h\h\h\hAND SUDDENLY YOU’RE IN ANOTHER WORLD,

FLYING OVER THE MASSIVE \hMENDENHALL GLACIER.

THIS GIANT RIVER OF ICE \hSTRETCHES 12 MILES.

WATER FROM MELTING ICE \h\h\hAT ITS EDGES

CASCADES DOWN INTO RIVERS BELOW,

\h\h\hJUST AS IT HAS FOR THOUSANDS OF YEARS.

TODAY, THE MENDENHALL IS ONE OF ALASKA’S MOST VISITED GLACIERS,

\h\hPROBABLY BECAUSE IT’S SO EASY TO REACH.

BUT TRAVEL UP TO ITS SOURCE,

\h\h\hAND IT FEELS LIKE YOU’RE ON ANOTHER PLANET.

THIS IS THE JUNEAU ICE FIELD,

A 1,500-SQUARE-MILE EXPANSE \h\h\h\h\hOF SNOW AND ICE

THAT FEEDS THE MENDENHALL

AND 37 OTHER GLACIERS \h\h\hIN THE REGION.

\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hAMAZINGLY, THE MAJORITY OF THIS ICE FIELD

\h\h\h\h\hIS WITHIN THE JUNEAU CITY LIMITS.

BUT THERE’S MORE TO SEE UP HERE \h\h\h\h\h\hTHAN JUST SNOW AND ICE.

THESE TINY SPECKS

\h\h\h\h\h\hARE THE RESIDENTS OF AN EXCLUSIVE TRAINING CAMP

FOR SOME OF ALASKA’S MOST ELITE ATHLETES...

SLED DOGS.

\h\h\h\h\h\h\hTHE EXTREME WEATHER AND SEEMINGLY ENDLESS SNOW HERE

MAKE THE MENDENHALL \h\hA PERFECT SPOT

\h\h\h\hTO GET THESE DOGS USED TO FREEZING CONDITIONS

AND PREPARE THEM FOR ALASKA’S \h\hMOST FAMOUS SPORTING EVENT,

A CONTEST THAT SENDS \h\hDOGS AND HUMANS

\h\h\h\h\hTEARING THROUGH HUNDREDS OF MILES OF ALASKAN WILDERNESS

IN A BATTLE OF ENDURANCE, \hSTRATEGY, AND STAMINA

\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hTHEY CALL THE LAST GREAT RACE ON EARTH.

IT’S MARCH 3, 2013,

\h\hAND HUNDREDS OF ALASKANS AND VISITORS FROM AROUND THE WORLD

ARE ALREADY GATHERING \h\hON A FROZEN LAKE

NORTHWEST OF ANCHORAGE.

THEY’RE HERE FOR THE START

\h\h\hOF ONE OF THE MOST FAMOUS SPORTING EVENTS IN THE WORLD:

THE IDITAROD TRAIL \h\hSLED DOG RACE.

OVER 60 DRIVERS, OR "MUSHERS,"

\h\h\h\h\h\h\hHAVE SIGNED UP FOR THIS YEAR’S COMPETITION--

A BRUTAL 1,049-MILE RACE \hACROSS SNOW AND ICE.

\h\h\h\hHERE AT THE STAGING AREA, THEY’RE PREPARING THEIR TEAMS.

BEFORE THEY START

THEY HAVE TO CHECK \hAND DOUBLE-CHECK

\h\h\h\h\h\hEVERY PART OF THE HARNESS THAT TIES THE DOGS TO EACH OTHER

AND TO THE SLED.

ANY HINT OF A CUT PAW \h\h\h\hOR SORE LEG

WILL GET A DOG PULLED \h\h\hFROM THE TEAM.

\h\hBUT THE MUSHERS KNOW IT’S BETTER SAFE THAN SORRY

WHEN IT COMES TO THE GRUELING TEST OF STAMINA AND ENDURANCE

THAT LIES AHEAD.

\h\h\h\hBY THE TIME THE DOGS MAKE IT TO THE STARTING LINE,

THEY’RE RARING TO GO.

\h\h\h\h\hVOLUNTEERS HAVE TO KEEP THEM STEADY.

A LOTTERY DETERMINES

\h\h\h\h\hIN WHICH ORDER THE MUSHERS START THE RACE.

FINALLY, THE COUNTDOWN IS OVER.

THE RACE IS ON!

[CROWD CHEERING]

CROWDS CHEER AS THE FIRST MUSHER OF THE 41st ANNUAL IDITAROD

HEADS OUT ACROSS THE LAKE.

FOR MANY HERE,

\h\h\h\h\h\h\hTHIS IS THE LAST CHANCE FOR THEM TO CHEER THE MUSHERS ON

BEFORE THEY HEAD INTO THE WILD.

\h\h\h\hTHE MUSHERS’ STARTS ARE STAGGERED BY TWO MINUTES

SO THE DOG TEAMS DON’T GET TANGLED EARLY ON THE TRAIL.

\h\h\hANOTHER MUSHER HEADS OUT OF THE GATES

AS ROCK MUSIC BLARES AND THE CROWDS CHEER.

THE MEN, WOMEN, AND DOGS

\h\h\h\h\hTHAT COMPETE IN THE IDITAROD EVERY YEAR

ARE JOINING IN A LONG TRADITION.

THE FIRST ALASKANS \h\hUSED DOG SLEDS

\h\h\h\hLONG BEFORE EUROPEANS ARRIVED HERE.

LATER, RUSSIAN INVADERS \h\h\hUSED THEM, TOO.

IN THE 1880s

\h\hAMERICAN PROSPECTORS RODE DOG SLEDS INTO SNOWY REGIONS

THEY COULDN’T GET TO \h\h\hANY OTHER WAY.

\h\h\h\hPIONEERS SOON FOLLOWED, SETTLING ALASKA ON DOG POWER.

TODAY,

THE MUSHERS IN THE IDITAROD \h\h\h\hHONOR THOSE DAYS.

THEY FOLLOW A ROUTE \h\hTHAT WAS FORGED

DURING A FAMOUS ALASKA RESCUE.

IT HAPPENED IN JANUARY 1925.

THE WESTERN ALASKAN CITY OF NOME

WAS IN THE GRIP OF A DEADLY \h\hOUTBREAK OF DIPHTHERIA.

THOUSANDS OF PEOPLE COULD DIE \h\hUNLESS AN ANTI-TOXIN SERUM

HUNDREDS OF MILES AWAY \h\h\hIN ANCHORAGE

COULD REACH THEM IN TIME.

TO GET THE SERUM THERE BEFORE IT WAS TOO LATE,

20 MUSHERS BANDED TOGETHER

TO DRIVE THEIR DOGS ACROSS ALASKA’S FROZEN WILDERNESS

IN A DARING RELAY.

\h\h\h\h\h\h\hTHEY MANAGED TO DELIVER THE SERUM TO NOME

IN JUST 127 HOURS,

SAVING THE PEOPLE OF THE CITY

AND MAKING HEADLINES \hACROSS THE NATION.

\h\hTODAY, EVERY MUSHER WHO RACES IN THE IDITAROD

IS HONORING THAT ACHIEVEMENT.

BUT THIS RACE IS NOT A RELAY.

EACH MUSHER HAS TO DRIVE \h\h\h\hHIS OR HER DOGS

ALL THE WAY TO NOME.

\h\h\hTHE RACE BEGINS NORTHWEST OF ANCHORAGE,

AT WILLOW LAKE.

FROM THERE, THE TEAMS HEAD WEST,

UP AND OVER RAINY PASS.

THEN, DEPENDING ON THE YEAR,

\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hTHE DOG SLEDS TAKE A SOUTHERN ROUTE VIA ANVIK

OR A NORTHERN ROUTE VIA GALENA.

\h\h\h\h\h\h\hALL TEAMS HEAD NORTH PAST THE COASTAL TOWN OF KOYUK,

\h\h\hAND THEN, AFTER RACING FOR ALMOST A THOUSAND MILES,

\h\h\h\h\h\hTHEY ARRIVE AT THE FINISH LINE IN NOME.

\h\h\h\h\h\hEARLY ON IN THE RACE, FRIENDS AND FANS LINE THE ROUTE

TO ENCOURAGE THE MUSHER TEAMS \h\h\h\h\h\h\hAS THEY PASS,

IN A CELEBRATION OF ALASKAN PRIDE.

\hBUT AS THE CROWDS THIN, THE MOOD STARTS TO CHANGE.

IT’S TIME FOR THE MUSHERS \h\h\h\hAND THEIR DOGS

\h\h\hTO BEGIN THEIR JOURNEYS INTO THE STATE’S LONELY BACKCOUNTRY.

IT WILL TAKE THE FASTEST TEAMS \h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h9 TO 10 DAYS

TO MAKE IT OUT AGAIN.

\h\h\h\hTHE SLOWER ONES WILL LIKELY TAKE UP TO 17.

THE SLOWEST MUSHER IN IDITAROD HISTORY

\h\h\hTOOK 32 DAYS TO COMPLETE THE RACE.

\h\h\h\hEACH MUSHER HAS HIS OR HER OWN STRATEGY,

\h\h\hAND HAS TO MAKE CAREFUL DECISIONS ABOUT WHEN TO REST

AND WHEN TO RACE.

\hTHIS ONE HAS DECIDED TO SLEEP DURING THE DAY,

AS OTHER TEAMS PASS HIM BY.

\h\h\h\h\h\hBUT LATER, HE’LL RACE INTO THE NIGHT.

\h\h\h\hTO MAKE SURE THEIR DOGS GET REST, TOO,

AND TO SAVE THEM FROM FROSTBITE,

\h\hMUSHERS PUT OUT STRAW TO KEEP THEM OFF THE SNOW.

WITH WIND CHILL,

\hTEMPERATURES OUT HERE HAVE BEEN KNOWN TO REACH

MINUS 100 DEGREES FAHRENHEIT.

\h\h\h\hBUT THIS YEAR, UNSEASONABLY WARM WEATHER

\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hTHREATENED TO LEAVE MUCH OF THE COURSE WITHOUT SNOW.

MANY FEARED THAT GLOBAL WARMING

\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hMIGHT FORCE THE CANCELLATION OF THE RACE.

BUT IN THE END, JUST ENOUGH SNOW FINALLY FELL TO MAKE A GO OF IT.

OUT ON THE TRAIL,

\h\h\h\h\h\hSPECIAL BOOTIES PROTECT THE DOGS’ PAWS FROM JAGGED ICE.

\h\h\h\h\hA TEAM MAY USE AS MANY AS 2,000 OF THEM IN A SINGLE RACE.

ANY DOG THAT’S INJURED IS PULLED FROM THE TEAM

\h\hAND CARRIED ON THE BACK OF THE SLED, LIKE THIS ONE,

UNTIL IT CAN BE HANDED OFF \h\hTO VETS OR VOLUNTEERS.

\h\h\h\h\h\hEVERY TEAM HAS TO FINISH THE IDITAROD

WITH AT LEAST SIX DOGS,

\h\h\h\h\hOR ELSE THEY’RE AUTOMATICALLY DISQUALIFIED.

FORTUNATELY, THE DOGS HAVE BEEN \h\h\h\hBRED TO MEET THE CHALLENGE.

\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hMOST ARE A MIX OF INDIGENOUS ALASKAN BREEDS--

\hSIBERIAN HUSKIES, MALAMUTES, AND OTHERS.

\hTHEY RARELY WEIGH MORE THAN 55 POUNDS,

AND MOST OF THAT IS PURE MUSCLE.

\h\h\h\h\hTHEY ALL HAVE AN INBORN EAGERNESS TO RUN.

THOSE WHO RACE THE IDITAROD

EXPERIENCE PARTS OF ALASKA FEW OTHERS EVER GET TO SEE.

\hTHEY WIND THROUGH THE QUIET STILLNESS

OF GREAT PINE FORESTS \h\hCOVERED IN SNOW.

THEY CROSS ICE-CHOKED RIVERS

AND DISCOVER WHAT IT’S LIKE

TO REALLY BE OUT IN THE WILD \h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hIN ALASKA.

THEY OFTEN FIND THEMSELVES \h\h\h\h\h\hALL ALONE,

TINY SPECKS,

\h\hRACING THROUGH AN EPIC LANDSCAPE.

BUT EVERY MUSHER KNOWS

THAT ALASKA’S WILDERNESS HOLDS GREAT DANGER, TOO.

\h\h\hSUDDEN WINDSTORMS CAN BRING BLINDING SNOW.

WHEN THE GOING GETS TOUGH,

MUSHERS RUN ALONGSIDE THE SLED \h\h\h\h\h\hTO LIGHTEN THE LOAD,

\h\h\hOR USE POLES TO HELP THE DOGS OUT.

27 CHECKPOINTS LINE THE TRAIL \h\h\h\h\hTO PROVIDE SUPPORT.

\h\hEACH IS STAFFED WITH A VOLUNTEER VET

TO CHECK THE DOGS’ CONDITION

\h\h\h\hAND MAKE SURE THEY’RE FIT TO CONTINUE.

HERE, AT FINGER LAKE,

\h\hMUSHERS CHECK IN WITH RACE OFFICIALS,

FEED THEIR DOGS,

AND THEN HEAD TO THESE TENTS TO REST UP FOR THE NEXT LEG.

30 MILES UP THE TRAIL,

THE RAINY PASS CHECKPOINT AWAITS ON A FROZEN LAKE.

HERE THE TEAMS PICK UP SUPPLIES

\h\h\hFLOWN IN BY A GROUP OF GUNG-HO VOLUNTEER PILOTS

\hWHO CALL THEMSELVES THE IDITAROD AIR FORCE.

THESE MEN AND WOMEN \hRISK THEIR LIVES

TO KEEP THE MUSHERS AND THEIR DOGS SAFE

IN AN AREA THAT’S BEEN CALLED

THE DEADLIEST PLACE \hIN ALASKA TO FLY.

FROM HERE, THE TEAMS HEAD FOR THE TOP OF RAINY PASS.

AT OVER 3,100 FEET,

IT’S THE HIGHEST POINT \h\h\hIN THE RACE,

BUT STILL 800 MILES FROM NOME.

THE WINNER OF THIS YEAR’S RACE

WAS 53-YEAR-OLD MUSHER \h\h\hMITCH SEAVEY,

WHO MADE IT TO THE FINISH LINE

\h\h\h\hIN 9 DAYS, 7 HOURS, 39 MINUTES, AND 56 SECONDS--

THE OLDEST MUSHER YET \h\hTO WIN THE RACE.

BUT RACING A DOG SLED

\hACROSS 1,000 MILES OF FROZEN WILDERNESS

\h\h\hIS JUST ONE WAY PEOPLE HERE IN ALASKA

GET OUT INTO THE WILD.

\h\h\h\h\h\h\hOTHERS DO IT BY SCRAMBLING UP HIGH PEAKS,

OR SKIING DOWN THEM.

BUT ONE LEGENDARY ALASKAN BUSH PILOT

\h\h\h\h\h\h\hCREATED HIS OWN UNIQUE EXPERIMENT

IN WILDERNESS SURVIVAL

\h\hBY BUILDING A HOUSE PERCHED ON A ROCKY TOWER

\h\h\h\h\hRIGHT IN THE MIDDLE OF THE HIGHEST MOUNTAIN RANGE

IN NORTH AMERICA.

A BUSH PILOT SOARS ACROSS \h\h\hA MASSIVE GLACIER

FLOWING OUT OF THE ALASKA RANGE.

THIS TINY SPECK OF A MACHINE \h\h\hIS SAVING ITS PASSENGERS

FROM WHAT WOULD OTHERWISE BE

\h\h\h\h\hA VERY LONG AND VERY DIFFICULT CLIMB

ACROSS ONE OF THE COLDEST AREAS \h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hON THE CONTINENT.

BUT IN THE HIGH ICY REACHES \h\hOF ALASKA’S MOUNTAINS,

ONE SPECIES HAS EVOLVED TO BE \hAMAZINGLY ADEPT AT SURVIVAL.

MOUNTAIN GOATS.

HERE, MORE THAN A THOUSAND FEET \h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hABOVE JUNEAU,

THESE GOATS ARE RIGHT AT HOME

\h\h\h\hWHERE MOST HUMANS WOULD BE RUNNING FOR COVER.

\h\hTENS OF THOUSANDS OF YEARS OF EVOLUTION ARE RESPONSIBLE.

THESE GOATS LIVE ONLY IN THE RUGGED MOUNTAINS

\h\h\h\hTHAT STRETCH FROM THE NORTHERN ROCKIES

\h\h\hUP THROUGH CANADA AND INTO SOUTHERN ALASKA.

THEY FOLLOW THE SEASONS UP AND DOWN THE SLOPES

IN SEARCH OF FOOD,

SHEDDING LAST YEAR’S COATS \h\hWHEN SPRING ARRIVES,

AND THEN FATTENING THEMSELVES UP FOR THE COLD OF WINTER.

BETWEEN MATING SEASONS,

MALES STICK TOGETHER IN BACHELOR GROUPS.

THE BABIES, OR KIDS, \hARRIVE IN LATE MAY

AND STAY WITH THEIR MOTHERS \h\hFOR AT LEAST A YEAR.

\h\h\h\hMOST REMAIN HIGH IN THE MOUNTAINS

ON STEEP SLOPES

THAT PREDATORS LIKE WOLVES HAVE A HARD TIME CLIMBING.

ONE REASON MOUNTAIN GOATS \h\h\h\hARE SO AGILE

IS BECAUSE THEY HAVE AN AREA OF SOFT SKIN

IN THE MIDDLE OF THEIR HOOVES

THAT CAN ACT LIKE A SUCTION CUP

TO HELP KEEP THEM ATTACHED \hTO THE ROCKS THEY CLIMB.

THAT IS, WHEN THEY’RE NOT FIGHTING WITH EACH OTHER.

THIS SPECIES OF GOAT IS KNOWN \h\h\hTO BE HIGHLY AGGRESSIVE.

ONE YEAR-LONG STUDY REVEALED

\hTHAT THEY FOUGHT OR POKED EACH OTHER WITH THEIR HORNS

FIVE TIMES AN HOUR ON AVERAGE.

SO NOT ONLY HAVE THEY LEARNED \h\h\h\hTO SURVIVE BRUTAL COLD

AND PACKS OF HUNGRY WOLVES,

\hBUT ALSO THE INJURIES CAUSED BY CONFLICTS WITH EACH OTHER.

TRYING TO SURVIVE WHILE CLIMBING ALASKA’S HIGHEST PEAKS

\h\h\h\hHAS BEEN A CHALLENGE HUMANS HAVE BEEN UNDERTAKING

FOR MORE THAN A CENTURY.

\hAND STILL TODAY, EVERY YEAR, MORE THAN A THOUSAND CLIMBERS

\h\h\hSET OUT TO TRY AND REACH THE SUMMIT OF MOUNT McKINLEY,

ALSO KNOWN AS DENALI.

AT 20,237 FEET,

IT’S THE TALLEST MOUNTAIN \h\h\hIN NORTH AMERICA.

\h\hLESS THAN 70% OF THOSE WHO ATTEMPT THE SUMMIT EVERY YEAR

ACTUALLY MAKE IT.

AS WITH MUCH OF ALASKA,

THE EASIEST WAY IN AND OUT \h\h\h\h\hIS BY PLANE,

\h\h\hTHANKS IN PART TO THE PIONEERING WORK

OF A LEGENDARY BUSH PILOT \h\hNAMED DON SHELDON.

AS A YOUNG MAN,

THE COLORADO NATIVE KEPT TRAVELING NORTH

UNTIL HIS MONEY RAN OUT.

\hHE ENDED UP IN THE TINY ALASKAN TOWN OF TALKEETNA,

WHERE HE WOULD SPEND THE REST OF HIS LIFE.

\h\h\h\h\hIN 1955, A SCIENTIST NAMED BRADFORD WASHBURN, FROM BOSTON,

ARRIVED IN TALKEETNA

\h\h\h\h\hTO MAP MOUNT McKINLEY AND THE SURROUNDING MOUNTAINS.

\hTHE PROBLEM WAS HE NEEDED A PILOT

WHO COULD DROP HIM OFF ON DENALI’S GLACIERS

\h\h\h\h\h\hAND WORK FOR HIM OVER THE YEARS IT WOULD TAKE

TO COMPLETE THE SURVEY.

\h\h\hIT JUST SO HAPPENED THAT SHELDON, WHO WAS NOW A PILOT,

HAD RECENTLY ATTACHED A PAIR OF SPECIAL SKIS

TO THE WHEELS OF HIS BUSH PLANE

SO HE COULD LAND ON SNOW.

\h\h\h\hHE OFFERED TO WORK WITH WASHBURN

AND WAS SOON TEACHING HIMSELF \h\h\hHOW TO LAND AND TAKE OFF

ON GLACIERS--

\h\h\h\hA TECHNIQUE THAT’S STILL USED TODAY

BY SHELDON’S DAUGHTER HOLLY AND HER HUSBAND DAVID LEE,

WHEN THEY FERRY CLIMBERS UP

TO THE 7,200-FOOT-HIGH \hDENALI BASE CAMP.

\h\hSHELDON’S SKILL AT GLACIER LANDINGS

ENABLED WASHBURN TO CONDUCT

THE FIRST-EVER SURVEY \hOF MOUNT McKINLEY,

WHICH TOOK 15 YEARS,

AND HELPED MADE SHELDON ONE OF \h\h\h\hALASKA’S AVIATION LEGENDS.

IN 1966, SHELDON DECIDED TO BUILD HIMSELF A CABIN

HIGH UP ON DENALI’S FLANKS.

HE CHOSE THIS RUGGED OUTCROPPING 6,000 FEET ABOVE SEA LEVEL,

IN THE GLACIER-FILLED VALLEY \h\hKNOWN AS THE GREAT GORGE.

\h\h\h\hHE FLEW IN EVERY PART OF THE CABIN

\h\h\hAND EVERY TOOL HE NEEDED TO BUILD IT.

\hSTRAPPING THE LARGER TIMBER TO THE OUTSIDE OF THE PLANE,

HE SIMPLY DROPPED IT OFF \h\hINTO THE SNOW BELOW

AS HE FLEW BY.

IT TOOK DOZENS OF TRIPS,

\hBUT HE FINALLY WELCOMED HIS FIRST GUESTS IN 1966.

\h\h\h\h\h\hALMOST 60 YEARS LATER, VISITORS PAY UP TO $600 A NIGHT

\h\h\hTO FLY IN AND ROUGH IT IN SHELDON’S UNIQUE RETREAT,

A PLACE WITH NO ROOM SERVICE \h\h\h\h\hAND FEW AMENITIES,

BUT PLENTY OF SOLITUDE AND ONE HECK OF A VIEW.

THANKS TO THIS CABIN,

\h\h\h\h\h\h\hTHIS AREA OF THE DENALI NATIONAL PARK

\h\h\h\h\h\hIS NOW CALLED THE DON SHELDON AMPHITHEATER

IN HONOR OF THE FAMOUS PILOT.

STILL TODAY,

\h\h\h\h\hTHE ONLY WAY INTO AND OUT OF HERE IS BY PLANE,

\h\h\h\h\hJUST AS IT IS FOR MANY PLACES IN ALASKA,

ESPECIALLY FOR THOSE WHO REALLY \h\h\h\h\h\hWANT TO TEST THE LIMITS

OF SURVIVING IN THE WILD.

IN THE SPRING OF 2003,

TWO AMATEUR ZOOLOGISTS

NAMED AMIE HUGUENARD AND TIMOTHY TREADWELL

WERE DROPPED OFF BY A BUSH PLANE HERE ON THE KATMAI COAST.

THE HORRIFYING EVENTS \h\h\hTHAT FOLLOWED

\h\hWOULD MAKE THEM THE MAIN CHARACTERS

IN DIRECTOR WERNER HERZOG’S \hDOCUMENTARY "GRIZZLY MAN"

\h\h\h\h\h\hAND PROVIDE A CAUTIONARY TALE TO OTHERS

ABOUT TESTING THE RAW POWER \h\hOF ALASKA’S WILDERNESS.

HUGUENARD AND TREADWELL

HAD COME TO TRY AND COEXIST \hWITH THE BEARS OF KATMAI.

THEY LIVED AMONG THEM

AND TRIED TO BECOME \h\hTHEIR FRIENDS.

BUT IT DIDN’T GO AS THEY PLANNED.

\h\h\hTHE BEARS ENDED UP EATING BOTH OF THEM ALIVE.

TREADWELL’S VIDEO CAMERA

\h\hHAPPENED TO BE ROLLING AT THE TIME

\h\h\hAND CAPTURED SIX HORRIFYING MINUTES

OF HIS AGONIZED SCREAMS.

FOR THOUSANDS OF YEARS,

\h\h\h\h\hBEARS HAVE REIGNED AT THE TOP OF THE FOOD CHAIN

AS ALASKA’S APEX PREDATOR.

USUALLY, THEY ARE FINE BEING AROUND HUMANS,

AS LONG AS THE HUMANS DON’T PUSH THEIR LUCK.

BROWN BEARS ARE KNOWN TO EAT \h\h\hCARIBOU, ELK, AND MOOSE.

MOST OF THE TIME THEY FEAST \h\h\hON BERRIES, ROOTS,

AND, OF COURSE, FISH.

SOME OF THESE GRAZING GIANTS

GET AS MUCH AS 80-90% \hOF THEIR NUTRITION

FROM VEGETATION.

AND WHEN THE TIDE IS OUT, \h\hTHEY DIG FOR CLAMS,

\hAS OPPORTUNISTIC GULLS WAIT TO FEAST ON THEIR LEFTOVERS.

\h\hEVEN BIRDS KNOW TO KEEP THEIR DISTANCE

IF THEY DON’T WANT TO BE ADDED \h\h\h\h\hTO THE BEARS’ BUFFET.

THE CUBS ARE BORN BETWEEN \h\hDECEMBER AND MARCH.

\h\h\h\hAS SOON AS THEY LEAVE THEIR DENS,

THEIR MOTHERS BEGIN TEACHING \h\h\hTHEM HOW TO FIND FOOD.

\h\h\hWHEN MATURE, THE MALES WILL WEIGH UP TO A THOUSAND POUNDS.

IN THE 19th AND 20th CENTURY, FEAR OF THESE GIANT PREDATORS

\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hDROVE PIONEERS TO HUNT THEM TO NEAR EXTINCTION

IN THE LOWER 48 STATES.

TODAY, MORE THAN 95%

OF SURVIVING BROWN BEARS \hIN THE UNITED STATES--

ABOUT 30,000 IN ALL--

LIVE IN ALASKA.

\hTHE PARK IS DEDICATED TO PRESERVING THIS EDEN,

FOR BEARS AND HUMANS ALIKE.

BUT NOT EVERYONE COMES TO ALASKA

JUST TO LOOK AT THE WILDLIFE \h\h\h\h\h\hOR THE VIEWS.

\hSOME COME TO SEARCH FOR BURIED TREASURE--

DARING MEN AND WOMEN WILLING TO RISK IT ALL

\h\h\h\hTO FIND THEIR FORTUNES ON AMERICA’S FROZEN FRONTIER.

\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hSOMETIMES, OUT IN ALASKA’S VAST WILDERNESS,

THE MORNING COMMUTE \h\hCAN BE EXTREME.

THE PILOT OF THIS HELICOPTER

IS ON HIS WAY TO PICK UP \h\hA MINING EXECUTIVE

WAITING FOR A RIDE TO WORK.

GEOLOGIST DARWIN GREEN

\hIS HERE TO CHECK IN ON AN EXPLORATORY DRILL

\hTHAT’S PLUMBING THIS MOUNTAINSIDE

FOR TRACES OF PRECIOUS METALS.

\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hBUT TO GET THERE REQUIRES A HAIR-RAISING DESCENT

BY HELICOPTER.

HE NEEDS TO REACH THIS TINY PLATFORM

\h\h\h\hPERCHED ON THE EDGE OF THE MOUNTAIN, DOWN BELOW.

IT’S ONE OF MANY SUCH DRILLING RIGS THAT DOT THE CLIFFS HERE.

THEY’RE PART OF AN OPERATION \h\hCALLED THE PALMER PROJECT,

A SEARCH FOR COPPER, ZINC, \h\h\h\hSILVER, AND GOLD

IN ALASKA’S COAST MOUNTAINS.

\h\hIT TAKES SKILLED ALASKAN MOUNTAINEERS

\h\h\hTO BUILD THESE PLATFORMS ON SUCH STEEP ROCKY TERRAIN.

A CENTURY AGO,

PROSPECTORS WOULD HAVE CLAMBERED UP PEAKS LIKE THIS ONE ON FOOT

\h\h\hIN THE SEARCH FOR PRECIOUS METALS.

BUT TODAY, DARWIN AND THE OTHER \h\h\h\h\hMEMBERS OF HIS DRILL CREW

START AND END THEIR SHIFTS \h\h\h\h\hBY HELICOPTER.

\h\h\h\h\h\hIT’S NOT A JOB FOR ANYONE AFRAID OF HEIGHTS

OR NERVE-RACKING FLIGHT.

\h\h\h\hAND FLYING THESE KINDS OF MISSIONS

REQUIRES A LOT OF SKILL,

ESPECIALLY IN THE MOUNTAINS’ \h\h\h\h\h\hTRICKY UPDRAFTS.

TODAY, THIS EXPERIENCED PILOT \hSWINGS DOWN OVER THE VALLEY,

THEN BACK AROUND

TO GET THE RIGHT ANGLE \hFOR THE APPROACH.

ONCE HE’S IN POSITION,

HE STARTS HIS DESCENT TO A TINY LANDING PAD.

\hIF A GUST OF WIND PUSHES HIM OFF COURSE,

\h\h\h\hTHE LANDING WILL HAVE TO BE ABORTED

\h\h\h\h\h\h\hTO AVOID A POTENTIALLY DEADLY CRASH.

BUT THIS PILOT MANAGES TO MAKE \h\h\h\hA FEATHER-LIGHT TOUCHDOWN

ON HIS VERY FIRST TRY.

IT’S TOO DANGEROUS

TO PARK A HELICOPTER ON THIS TEMPORARY PAD,

SO THE PILOT LIFTS OFF TO SEEK SOLID GROUND.

NOW ON HIS OWN,

DARWIN HIKES THE REST OF THE WAY DOWN TO THE DRILL SITE.

HIS TEAM’S HARD WORK IS ALREADY PAYING OFF.

CORE SAMPLES FROM THESE DRILLS

\h\hHAVE SHOWN THAT THIS MOUNTAIN RANGE

\h\h\h\hHOLDS GREAT POTENTIAL RICHES BELOW.

\h\hONCE THOSE MINERALS HAVE BEEN CAREFULLY MAPPED

USING SURFACE DRILLS \h\h\hLIKE THIS ONE,

THE MINING COMPANY \hDARWIN WORKS FOR

HOPES TO BE ABLE TO EXTRACT IT \h\h\h\h\hUSING UNDERGROUND MINES.

\h\h\h\hDRILL CREWS ON THE PALMER PROJECT

WORK 24 HOURS A DAY HERE,

IN 12-HOUR SHIFTS, FIVE MONTHS A YEAR,

NO MATTER WHAT THE WEATHER.

JUST THE LATEST IN A LONG LINE \hOF HARD-WORKING MEN AND WOMEN

WHO HAVE COME TO ALASKA TO SEEK THEIR FORTUNE

\h\h\h\h\h\hIN DARING AND OFTEN THRILLING QUESTS

FOR COPPER, SILVER, AND GOLD.

AND THE STATE’S MOST FAMOUS \h\hGOLD RUSH OF THEM ALL

HAPPENED JUST A FEW MILES AWAY.

IN 1896, GOLD WAS DISCOVERED \h\hJUST OVER THE U.S. BORDER,

IN CANADA’S KLONDIKE TERRITORY.

\h\hTHE EASIEST WAY FOR MINERS TO GET TO THE CANADIAN GOLD FIELDS

WAS THROUGH ALASKA.

OVER THE NEXT THREE YEARS,

100,000 WOULD-BE MILLIONAIRES \h\h\h\h\h\h\hMADE THE TRIP.

\h\h\h\hIT WAS CALLED "THE KLONDIKE STAMPEDE,"

\hAND THE MEN WHO JOINED IT WERE KNOWN AS "STAMPEDERS."

A LITTLE HARBOR OUTPOST \h\h\hCALLED SKAGWAY

\hBECAME ONE OF THEIR MAIN POINTS OF ENTRY.

TODAY SKAGWAY IS A MAJOR STOP

\h\h\hON THE ALASKA CRUISE SHIP CIRCUIT.

BUT BACK IN THE DAYS \hOF THE STAMPEDERS,

ONE CANADIAN MOUNTIE CALLED IT \h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h"HELL ON EARTH."

THE KLONDIKE STAMPEDE

TRANSFORMED SKAGWAY FROM A TWO-MAN CAMP

\h\h\hINTO A LAWLESS BOOMTOWN OF 10,000, ALMOST OVERNIGHT.

THIEVES, CON MEN, \hAND PROSTITUTES

PROWLED ITS STREETS,

PREYING ON THE HOPEFUL MINERS

\h\h\hTHAT ARRIVED HERE WITH DREAMS OF THE RICHES

\h\hTHAT THEY HOPED WOULD SOON GREET THEM ACROSS THE BORDER.

FUTURE AUTHOR JACK LONDON \h\h\hWAS ONE OF THEM.

HIS TIME HERE INSPIRED HIS BEST-KNOWN BOOK,

"THE CALL OF THE WILD."

\h\hHE MIGHT RECOGNIZE MANY OF THESE STOREFRONTS

IF HE CAME BACK TODAY,

AND HE MIGHT ALSO BE SURPRISED

\h\h\h\hAT HOW MUCH IT’S BEEN CLEANED UP.

\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hBUT LONDON AND THE REST OF THE STAMPEDERS

WEREN’T JUST HERE TO SAMPLE SKAGWAY’S DEBAUCHED CHARMS;

THEY WERE HERE TO START

WHAT WAS WELL KNOWN AS A BRUTAL JOURNEY:

TO GET TO THE GOLD.

\hTHE SHORTEST ROUTE FROM SKAGWAY TO CANADA’S KLONDIKE GOLD FIELDS

\h\h\h\h\hWAS A NARROW TRAIL THAT HEADED WEST OUT OF TOWN,

\h\h\hAND THEN NORTH UP A VERTICAL INCLINE.

THIS GRUELING ROUTE WAS CALLED \h\h\h\h\h\h\hTHE CHILKOOT TRAIL

\h\h\h\hAND BROUGHT THE HOPEFUL PROSPECTORS

TO THE 3,500-FOOT-HIGH \h\h\hCHILKOOT PASS

AT THE CANADIAN BORDER.

TO PREVENT STARVATION,

CANADA REQUIRED PROSPECTORS \h\hENTERING THE KLONDIKE

\h\h\h\hTO BRING A YEAR’S WORTH OF SUPPLIES ALONG WITH THEM--

ABOUT A TON PER PERSON.

\hIF THEY SHOWED UP AT THE BORDER CROSSING

WITH ANYTHING LESS,

THE CANADIAN MOUNTIES \h\h\hSTATIONED HERE

FORCED THEM TO TURN BACK.

TOTING ALL THAT STUFF

OVER THE TOP OF THE CHILKOOT’S 3,500-FOOT SUMMIT IN BACKPACKS

TOOK MULTIPLE TRIPS UP AND DOWN THE TRAIL.

\h\h\h\hTHE STAMPEDERS CALLED IT THE "MEANEST 32 MILES IN THE WORLD."

\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hTODAY, REMAINS OF ABANDONED CANOES

\h\h\h\h\h\hSTILL LIE NEAR THE CHILKOOT SUMMIT--

JUST PART OF THE EXTRA BAGGAGE \h\h\h\h\hDISCARDED ALONG THE WAY.

\h\h\hONLY ABOUT A THIRD OF THOSE WHO TRIED THE TRIP

MADE IT TO THE GOLD FIELDS.

THE REST GAVE UP, TURNED BACK, \h\h\h\h\hOR DIED ON THE TRAIL.

MANY MINERS CHOSE AN ALTERNATE \h\h\h\h\hROUTE OUT OF SKAGWAY.

\h\hTHIS ONE, WHICH HEADED UP AND OVER WHITE PASS INSTEAD,

WAS ONLY SLIGHTLY EASIER.

HERE IN THIS VALLEY,

PACK HORSES, NOT HUMANS, PAID THE GREATEST PRICE.

EAGER, INEXPERIENCED PROSPECTORS DROVE THE HORSES RELENTLESSLY,

\hTHEN CAST THEM ASIDE IN PLACES LIKE THIS GULCH

WHEN THEY BECAME CRIPPLED OR ILL.

THEIR ROTTING CARCASSES

WERE WHY JACK LONDON REFERRED TO THIS ROUTE

AS "DEAD HORSE TRAIL."

TO EASE THE SUFFERING OF BOTH MAN AND BEAST

AND TO MAKE A TIDY PROFIT \h\h\h\hIN THE PROCESS,

\h\hA GROUP OF INVESTORS DECIDED TO BUILD A RAILROAD

OVER WHITE PASS IN 1898.

THE STEEP SLOPE OF WHITE PASS

\hMADE IT A NEARLY IMPOSSIBLE PROJECT,

BUT THE POTENTIAL PROFITS \h\h\h\hDROVE THEM ON.

"GIVE ME ENOUGH DYNAMITE," \h\hONE ENGINEER BRAGGED,

\h\h"AND I’LL BUILD A RAILROAD TO HELL."

\h\h\h\h\h\hDAZZLING FEATS OF 19th-CENTURY ENGINEERING,

LIKE THIS STEEL BRIDGE,

\h\hHAD TO BE BUILT TO CARRY THE TRAINS

\hACROSS THE CANYONS THAT STOOD IN THE WAY.

\h\h\h\hBUT BY THE TIME THE LINE OPENED IN 1900,

THE STAMPEDERS IT WAS BUILT TO CARRY WERE ALREADY GONE.

\h\h\hAN 1899 GOLD STRIKE NEAR NOME HAD SENT THEM NORTHWEST INSTEAD.

\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hFORTUNATELY FOR THE RAILROAD’S INVESTORS,

SETTLERS AND SIGHTSEERS SOON TOOK THEIR PLACE.

TODAY THE WHITE PASS & \h\h\h\h\h\h\hYUKON \h\h\hRAILROAD’S TRAINS

\h\h\h\hSTILL CARRY NEARLY 400,000 TOURISTS

INTO THE MOUNTAINS EVERY SUMMER.

\h\h\h\h\hAND OVER 100 YEARS AFTER THE KLONDIKE STAMPEDE,

\h\h\h\hPROSPECTORS ARE STILL FANNING OUT

ACROSS ALASKA’S BACKCOUNTRY \h\h\hTO SEARCH FOR GOLD.

\h\h\h\h\hAND FEW ARE FINDING SOMETHING ELSE OUT HERE, TOO:

THEIR 15 MINUTES OF FAME

\h\h\h\h\h\hON VARIOUS GOLD MINING REALITY SHOWS.

\h\hBUT THEY’RE HARDLY THE FIRST ONES IN ALASKA

TO HAVE THE TV CAMERAS \h\h\hCOME KNOCKING,

OR MOVE IN NEXT-DOOR.

THAT’S WHAT HAPPENED HERE

\h\h\h\h\hAT THE HOME OF FORMER ALASKA GOVERNOR

AND REPUBLICAN VICE PRESIDENTIAL CANDIDATE SARAH PALIN.

\h\h\h\hIN 2010, UNAUTHORIZED PALIN BIOGRAPHER JOE McGINNIS

BOUGHT THE HOUSE TO THE LEFT

AND ANNOUNCED HE WAS MOVING IN.

SO PALIN BUILT A 14-FOOT FENCE \h\h\h\h\h\h\hTO BLOCK HIS VIEW.

BUT NO FENCES WERE NEEDED \h\hON THE OTHER SIDE,

AFTER FOX NEWS BUILT PALIN \h\h\hHER OWN TV STUDIO

IN THIS BUILDING TO THE RIGHT.

\h\hFOR THREE YEARS IT KEPT MS. PALIN IN THE SPOTLIGHT,

A POSITION SHE SEEMS TO ADORE,

BUT ONE A LOT OF OTHER ALASKANS \h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hDON’T ENVY.

\hFROM ITS EARLIEST DAYS, ALASKA HAS BEEN A MAGNET

FOR A CONTRARY BRAND \h\h\hOF OUTSIDERS

LOOKING TO BE LEFT ALONE.

TODAY, THEIR 21st-CENTURY HEIRS

STILL RESENT ANY INTRUSION \h\h\hINTO THEIR LIVES.

\hDISTRUST OF THE LOWER 48 AND ITS FEDERAL GOVERNMENT

THRIVES IN THIS INDIVIDUALISTIC \h\h\h\h\h\hAND LIBERTARIAN CROWD,

ALONG WITH CONSPIRACY THEORIES.

IN 1993,

THE DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SELECTED THIS LONELY SPOT

175 MILES NORTH OF ANCHORAGE

\h\h\h\h\hTO BUILD ITS HIGH-FREQUENCY ACTIVE AURORAL RESEARCH PROGRAM,

OR HAARP.

SOON AFTER, ALASKA’S CONSPIRACY \h\h\h\h\h\hBLOGOSPHERE EXPLODED.

THE U.S. GOVERNMENT WAS ACCUSED \h\h\h\h\h\hOF USING HAARP’S ARRAY

\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hOF 180 72-FOOT-TALL SILVER TOWERS

FOR EVERYTHING FROM DISABLING SATELLITES

TO CAUSING EARTHQUAKES

TO CONTROLLING THE WEATHER

TO CONTROLLING MINDS.

THE DoD’S PROMISES

\h\h\hTHAT THE ARRAY IS ACTUALLY BEING USED

\hFOR A BENIGN STUDY OF THE OUTER ATMOSPHERE

DID LITTLE TO STOP THE CHATTER,

\h\h\h\hEVEN THOUGH IT’S NOT THE FIRST TIME

SPACE-MINDED SCIENTISTS

\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hHAVE BEEN DRAWN TO ALASKA’S UNIQUE ENVIRONMENT,

OR ITS UNIQUE POSITION \h\h\hON THE EARTH.

HERE ON KODIAK ISLAND’S \h\h\hNARROW CAPE,

SCIENTISTS EVEN FOUND \h\h\hA PERFECT SPOT

TO BUILD A GATEWAY INTO SPACE.

\h\h\h\hTHE ALASKA AEROSPACE CORPORATION’S

KODIAK LAUNCH COMPLEX.

\h\h\hTHIS SPACEPORT WAS BUILT BY THE STATE OF ALASKA ITSELF

AND IS USED BY BOTH THE U.S. GOVERNMENT

AND PRIVATE CORPORATIONS

TO LAUNCH UNMANNED ROCKETS \h\h\h\hAND SATELLITES.

FIRST, THEY ARE LOADED INSIDE \h\h\h\h\hTHIS 17-STORY TOWER

AND THEN MOVED OUTSIDE JUST BEFORE LAUNCH.

SINCE THE KODIAK LAUNCH COMPLEX

\h\h\hSITS RIGHT NEXT TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN,

IT’S THE PERFECT AND SAFEST PLACE

TO LAUNCH SATELLITES \hINTO POLAR ORBITS,

\h\h\hLIKE MANY OF THE WEATHER AND COMMUNICATION SATELLITES

WE RELY ON TODAY.

BUT NOT ALL SCIENTISTS \h\h\hCOME TO ALASKA

TO TRAIN THEIR EYES \h\hON THE SKIES.

\h\h\h\hSOME ARE HERE TO LEARN SURVIVAL SKILLS

FOR AN EPIC JOURNEY ACROSS MILES OF ICE.

HIGH IN THE MOUNTAINS \h\h\hABOVE JUNEAU,

A GROUP OF YOUNG SCIENTISTS

IS PREPARING FOR A VERY COLD \h\h\h\h\hSCIENTIFIC QUEST.

THEY’RE ABOUT TO EMBARK

\h\h\hON A 90-MILE 8-WEEK RESEARCH TRIP

THROUGH THE ALASKAN WILDERNESS \h\h\hTO ATLIN, BRITISH COLUMBIA.

\h\hBUT THEY’RE GOING TO GET THERE ON SKIS,

\h\h\h\hBY CROSSING THE JUNEAU ICE FIELD.

SINCE 1948, THE JUNEAU ICE FIELD RESEARCH PROGRAM

\h\h\h\hHAS BEEN SENDING YOUNG SCIENTISTS LIKE THESE

OUT ONTO THE ICE.

THEY’RE HERE TO PURSUE \hWILDERNESS STUDIES

IN FIELDS SUCH AS GEOLOGY, \h\h\h\h\hCLIMATOLOGY,

BIOLOGY, AND GLACIOLOGY.

THIS IS THEIR FIRST STOP,

KNOWN AS CAMP 17.

\hTHEY WILL SPEND THE NEXT FEW DAYS

IN THIS RUGGED OUTPOST,

\h\h\h\h\hLEARNING THE TECHNIQUES THAT WILL HELP THEM TO SURVIVE

THE REST OF THE TRIP,

\h\hLIKE HOW TO AVOID FALLING INTO A CREVASSE

AND HOW TO CLIMB BACK OUT \h\h\h\h\hIF YOU DO.

OUT HERE,

TEAMWORK AND STRONG ARMS ARE THE KEY TO SURVIVAL.

ONCE THEY’VE FINISHED \hLEARNING THE ROPES,

\h\h\hTHESE HARDY APPRENTICE RESEARCHERS

\h\h\hWILL MOVE ON ACROSS THE ICE FIELD.

THEY’LL JOIN THE RANKS

OF THOUSANDS OF OTHER ADVENTUROUS SCIENTISTS

DRAWN TO ALASKA OVER THE YEARS,

EAGER TO EXPLORE AND UNDERSTAND \h\h\h\h\h\h\hTHE STATE’S WONDERS.

FROM HIGH IN THE MOUNTAINS,

TO SEA LEVEL,

AND EVEN BELOW.

SOUTHEASTERN ALASKA’S \h\hRUGGED COASTLINE,

WITH ITS MIX OF MOUNTAIN, \h\h\hOCEAN, AND SHORE,

\h\h\hHAS LONG BEEN A FAVORITE DESTINATION

\h\hFOR RESEARCHERS FROM AROUND THE GLOBE.

BRITAIN’S CAPTAIN COOK

\hWAS ONE OF THE FIRST EUROPEANS TO CHART THESE WATERS, IN 1778.

MORE DETAILED SCIENTIFIC STUDIES

\hWERE CARRIED OUT IN THE EARLY 1800s,

WHEN RUSSIAN SCIENTISTS

\h\h\h\h\h\h\hRECORDED DATA ABOUT TIDES AND WEATHER HERE.

THEIR WORK LED TO THE FIRST MAPS

\h\h\h\h\h\hOF ALASKA’S CONFUSING COASTAL REGIONS--

\h\hA TANGLED NETWORK OF STRAITS AND CHANNELS

WITH THOUSANDS OF MILES \h\h\hOF SHORELINE

AND HUNDREDS OF ISLANDS.

\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hA FEW OF THEM, LIKE THIS ONE CALLED CHICHAGOF,

ARE HUGE

\h\hAND COVER MORE THAN A THOUSAND SQUARE MILES.

OTHERS AREN’T MUCH BIGGER \h\h\h\h\hTHAN ROCKS.

FOR CENTURIES, PEOPLE HAVE BEEN USING THE WATERWAYS AROUND THEM

TO TRAVEL UP THE COAST.

THIS "INSIDE PASSAGE" ALLOWED THEM TO AVOID

THE NORTHERN PACIFIC’S \hDANGEROUS WATERS.

\h\h\h\h\h\hBUT THE REGION’S WINDING 10,000-MILE SHORELINE

BROUGHT DANGERS OF ITS OWN.

\h\h\hHIDDEN SHOALS AND JAGGED OUTCROPPINGS

CAUSED 300 MARITIME ACCIDENTS \h\h\h\h\h\h\hIN 1898 ALONE.

\h\hTHE NEXT YEAR, CONGRESS RESPONDED

BY AUTHORIZING THE CONSTRUCTION \h\h\h\hOF A SERIES OF LIGHTHOUSES.

ONE OF THE FIRST TO SHINE ITS BEAM

STOOD HERE ON SENTINEL ISLAND.

\h\h\h\hIT’S BEEN LEADING SAILORS AWAY FROM DISASTER SINCE 1902.

BUT ITS ORIGINAL WOODEN BUILDING

WAS REPLACED WITH THIS STURDIER \h\h\h\h\h\hCONCRETE ART DECO TOWER

IN 1935.

\h\h\hTODAY, ONLY ONE OF THE INSIDE PASSAGE’S

\h\h\h\hORIGINAL 20th-CENTURY WOODEN LIGHTHOUSES SURVIVES--

THIS LONELY OCTAGONAL TOWER \h\h\h\h\hON ELDRED ROCK.

IT STANDS NEAR THE SPOT

WHERE THE PASSENGER SHIP \h\h\h\h\hCLARA NEVADA

\h\hRAN AGROUND AND SANK ON A STORMY NIGHT IN 1898.

\h\hAS MANY AS 40 PEOPLE LOST THEIR LIVES HERE THAT NIGHT.

THE ELDRED ROCK LIGHTHOUSE \hBEGAN OPERATION IN 1906

IN AN EFFORT TO MAKE SURE IT NEVER HAPPENED AGAIN.

ITS BEACON STILL LIGHTS THE WAY

FOR SHIPS SAILING THROUGH THE INSIDE PASSAGE TODAY.

UP TO A FIFTH OF THOSE \hARE CRUISE SHIPS--

450 IN THE SUMMER OF 2012 ALONE.

HUNDREDS OF PASSAGES BY TANKERS, BARGES, AND FISHING BOATS

HELP ADD TO THE TOTAL.

BUT NO SHIPS MAKE MORE JOURNEYS \h\hALONG ALASKA’S SOUTHERN COAST

OR PLAY A MORE VITAL ROLE HERE

\h\h\h\hTHAN THE FERRIES THEY CALL THE BLUE CANOES.

FOR MANY RURAL RESIDENTS,

THEY PROVIDE THE ONLY DEPENDABLE LINK TO THE OUTSIDE WORLD.

\h\h\hPRIVATE OPERATORS RAN THE FIRST FERRIES HERE

UNTIL THE TERRITORY BOUGHT THEM IN 1951.

AFTER STATEHOOD, A NEW FEDERAL LAW

\h\h\h\h\h\hTRANSFORMED THESE WATERS INTO THE ALASKA MARINE HIGHWAY,

\h\h\h\h\h\hQUALIFYING THE NOW STATE-OWNED FERRIES

FOR FEDERAL SUPPORT.

THAT SUPPORT KEEPS THE SHIPS \h\h\h\h\h\hCHUGGING ALONG

FROM BELLINGHAM, WASHINGTON,

TO THE TIP OF THE ALEUTIAN \h\hPENINSULA, AND BACK--

3,500 MILES EACH WAY.

THEY CARRY 312,000 PASSENGERS \h\h\h\h\hAND 98,000 VEHICLES

IN AN AVERAGE YEAR.

CABINS ARE AVAILABLE,

BUT A LOT OF TRAVELERS \h\hPREFER THE VIEW

FROM THE FERRY’S UPPER DECK.

\h\h\hFROM HERE, THEY CAN WATCH THE SPECTACULAR SCENERY GO BY

AND LOOK FOR SIGNS OF THE BIRDS, FISH, AND MARINE MAMMALS

\h\h\h\h\h\hTHAT CALL THE INSIDE PASSAGE HOME.

\h\hTHESE SEA LIONS RELY ON THE PASSAGE’S SHORELINE

TO REST AND REAR THEIR YOUNG.

\h\hTHEY ALSO DEPEND ON ITS WATER FOR FOOD.

\hA MALE CAN GROW UP TO 2,500 POUNDS

AND RULE OVER PRIVATE DOMAINS

WHERE HE AWAITS THE ARRIVAL \h\hOF 750-POUND FEMALES

WILLING TO MATE...

IF HE’S LUCKY.

THIS FORTUNATE BULL’S HAREM

\hCAN BARELY SQUEEZE ONTO HIS TINY BEACH.

BUT DESPITE THEIR NUMBERS HERE,

ALASKA’S SEA LIONS ARE ACTUALLY \h\h\h\h\h\hSTRUGGLING TO SURVIVE.

\hONCE, THESE BEACHES IN THE BARREN ISLANDS

\h\h\h\h\h\hWOULD HAVE BEEN COVERED IN A CARPET OF BLUBBER AND FUR.

TODAY THERE’S MORE SAND \h\h\hTHAN SEA LION.

BETWEEN 1960 AND 1990

THEIR POPULATION DECLINED \h\hFROM AROUND 140,000

TO LESS THAN 31,000,

WHICH IS WHY, IN 1997,

THEY WERE ADDED TO THE LIST \h\hOF ENDANGERED SPECIES.

\hTODAY THERE ARE ABOUT 46,000 LEFT.

FARTHER FROM SHORE,

\h\hTHE STILL WATERS OF THE INSIDE PASSAGE

HIDE ANOTHER SPECIES ON THE ENDANGERED LIST:

HUMPBACK WHALES.

GLIDING BELOW THE QUIET SURFACE,

\h\h\h\hWHERE THEY CAN STAY FOR UP TO HALF AN HOUR AT A TIME,

\h\h\h\h\hTHEY REVEAL THEIR PRESENCE ONLY WHEN THEY COME UP FOR AIR.

\hHUMPBACKS ARE PART-TIME RESIDENTS IN THESE WATERS.

\h\hTHEY SPEND THEIR WINTERS AROUND HAWAII,

\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hWHERE THEY MATE AND GIVE BIRTH TO THEIR YOUNG.

\h\h\h\h\hWHEN SUMMER COMES, THEY HEAD TO ALASKA TO FEED.

IT’S THE ONLY TIME OF YEAR \h\h\h\h\hWHEN THEY EAT.

EACH ONE CAN CONSUME UP TO A TON OF FISH AND KRILL A DAY.

BUT THEIR PREDICTABLE MOVEMENTS \h\h\h\h\h\hMAKE THEM EASY TO TRACK

AND KILL.

IN THE 19th AND 20th CENTURY,

WHALING DROVE THEIR NUMBERS HERE DOWN BY 90%.

\h\h\h\hPROTECTED STATUS HAS HELPED BRING THEM BACK,

BUT THEY STILL HAVE \h\hA WAYS TO GO.

ENVIRONMENTALISTS LONG FEARED

THAT GROWING SHIP TRAFFIC \hALONG ALASKA’S COAST

\h\h\h\hCOULD INTERFERE WITH THE WHALES’ REVIVAL.

ON MARCH 24, 1989,

THEIR WORST FEARS CAME TRUE

WHEN A HUGE OIL TANKER CALLED THE EXXON VALDEZ

\h\h\h\hRAN AGROUND ON A REEF HERE IN PRINCE WILLIAM SOUND,

WHERE THIS BUOY MARKS THE SPOT.

THE IMPACT TORE A HOLE IN THE SHIP’S HULL.

UP TO 11 MILLION GALLONS OF CRUDE OIL POURED OUT.

IT’S BEEN CALLED ONE OF THE WORST

HUMAN-CAUSED ENVIRONMENTAL \h\hDISASTERS IN HISTORY.

BUT IT WAS HARDLY UNEXPECTED.

ENVIRONMENTALISTS HAD WARNED \h\h\hOF THIS KIND OF EVENT

FOR YEARS--

\h\hEVER SINCE THE 1977 OPENING OF THE TRANS ALASKA PIPELINE.

THE 48-INCH PIPE

\hCARRIES CRUDE OIL SOUTH FROM ALASKA’S PRUDHOE BAY.

\h\hIT’S SPECIALLY BUILT TO BE EARTHQUAKE RESISTANT.

THE PIPELINE ITSELF IS NOT \hBOLTED TO ITS SUPPORTS.

INSTEAD, IT RESTS ON SLIDERS.

IF THE EARTH STARTS TO RUMBLE,

THE PIPELINE IS DESIGNED \hTO SLIDE SIDE TO SIDE

AND LITERALLY WIGGLE LIKE A GIANT SNAKE,

INSTEAD OF CRACKING AND SPILLING ITS CARGO OF CRUDE.

THE TRANS ALASKA PIPELINE

RUNS FOR 800 MILES ACROSS THE STATE.

UP TO 15% OF THE UNITED STATES’ \h\h\h\h\h\hDOMESTIC OIL PRODUCTION

FLOWS THROUGH IT EVERY YEAR

AND INTO THESE TANKS

AT THE MARINE TERMINAL AT VALDEZ IN PRINCE WILLIAM SOUND,

ALASKA’S NORTHERNMOST \h\hICE-FREE HARBOR.

FROM HERE, THE OIL IS LOADED \h\h\hONTO GIANT TANKER SHIPS.

JUST AFTER MIDNIGHT ON MARCH 24, 1989,

\hTHE EXXON VALDEZ LEFT THE TERMINAL,

\h\h\h\hPASSED THIS BUOY AT THE MOUTH OF THE HARBOR,

\h\h\h\hAND HEADED OUT INTO PRINCE WILLIAM SOUND

WITH A FULL LOAD OF CRUDE,

WHEN IT SUDDENLY RAN AGROUND.

IT WAS THE LARGEST OIL SPILL IN U.S. HISTORY AT THE TIME.

ENVIRONMENTALISTS ON THE SCENE

PREDICTED PRINCE WILLIAM SOUND \h\h\h\h\hWOULD NEVER BE THE SAME.

\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h25 YEARS AND A $2.5 BILLION CLEAN-UP LATER,

THEY’VE BEEN PROVED RIGHT.

\hTHINGS LOOK GREAT ON THE SURFACE HERE.

\h\hBUT OIL STILL LURKS UNDER ALMOST EVERY ROCK.

SOME AREAS ARE STILL AS TOXIC AS THEY WERE RIGHT AFTER THE SPILL.

THEY MAY STAY THAT WAY FOR HUNDREDS OF YEARS.

BUT THAT DOESN’T MEAN THE CLEAN-UP EFFORTS

HAVE ALL BEEN IN VAIN.

\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hWITHOUT THEM, THINGS HERE WOULD BE MUCH WORSE.

BUT NOTHING IN ALASKA SYMBOLIZES NATURE’S REJUVENATING POWER

OR THE VALUE OF HUMAN ACTION \h\h\hTO SAVE THE ENVIRONMENT

MORE THAN THIS:

A ONCE-RARE BALD EAGLE STANDING \h\h\h\h\h\hSENTINEL BESIDE THE SEA.

IN THE 1960s,

\h\hTHE UNINTENDED IMPACT OF A CHEMICAL KNOWN AS DDT

\hDROVE THESE GREAT BIRDS TO THE EDGE OF EXTINCTION

BY MAKING THE SHELLS OF THEIR EGGS TOO THIN.

\h\hPUBLIC PRESSURE FORCED THE GOVERNMENT TO BAN DDT.

TODAY, THE BALD EAGLES \h\h\h\hARE BACK--

\h\hINSPIRING REMINDERS OF WHAT WE CAN ACCOMPLISH

WHEN WE WORK TOGETHER--

STIRRING SYMBOLS OF AMERICA

AND LIVING ICONS OF ALASKA...

THE GREAT STATE

\h\h\h\h\hWHERE ADVENTURERS STILL PIT THEMSELVES AGAINST NATURE,

\hDREAMERS STILL COME TO SEEK THEIR FORTUNES,

AND THE CALL OF THE WILD \h\h\h\hSTILL ECHOES

\h\hACROSS AMERICA’S LAST FROZEN FRONTIER.