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'I suppose I'm in love
with the idea of travel.'
2
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(Look at that.)
3
00:00:07,280 --> 00:00:09,710
'Wherever the white road
winds, I'm after it.'
4
00:00:09,760 --> 00:00:12,430
And this is literally endless!
5
00:00:12,480 --> 00:00:15,590
'People often ask me my
favourite place in the world,
6
00:00:15,640 --> 00:00:18,350
and I like to reply "the
next place I'm going to".'
7
00:00:18,400 --> 00:00:20,630
That's extraordinary!
8
00:00:20,680 --> 00:00:23,950
'Isn't the excitement of travelling
and having an eye on new horizons
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00:00:24,000 --> 00:00:26,910
often as rewarding as
the destination itself?'
10
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Fantastic. Extraordinary journey.
11
00:00:29,000 --> 00:00:30,670
'In this series,
12
00:00:30,720 --> 00:00:33,830
I'm gathering my traveller's
tales and retelling them,
13
00:00:33,880 --> 00:00:37,510
bundled up with new detail
and inside information,
14
00:00:37,560 --> 00:00:39,960
and condensed into postcard form.'
15
00:00:48,600 --> 00:00:51,390
I've got maps and travel
books all over my study,
16
00:00:51,440 --> 00:00:53,150
and I'm always looking at them
17
00:00:53,200 --> 00:00:55,750
and always thinking of
somewhere fascinating to visit
18
00:00:55,800 --> 00:00:57,790
and somewhere extraordinary to explore.
19
00:00:57,840 --> 00:01:01,190
But sometimes places that seem to be
quite well-known and familiar to us
20
00:01:01,240 --> 00:01:03,750
are absolutely fascinating to visit.
21
00:01:03,800 --> 00:01:06,070
For instance, take Greece.
22
00:01:06,120 --> 00:01:08,910
Take mainland Greece. Take
Greece in its entirety.
23
00:01:08,960 --> 00:01:10,950
Everybody thinks "but I know Greece".
24
00:01:11,000 --> 00:01:12,910
I mean, we know a bit of Greece.
25
00:01:12,960 --> 00:01:15,310
We know white buildings, little churches,
26
00:01:15,360 --> 00:01:17,790
and the very blue sea, and
the blue and white flag.
27
00:01:17,840 --> 00:01:19,950
We know the Parthenon.
Yeah, we know Greece.
28
00:01:20,000 --> 00:01:22,750
But actually, even people
who've been to Greece a lot,
29
00:01:22,800 --> 00:01:26,230
even Greek people don't know
all the extraordinary corners
30
00:01:26,280 --> 00:01:29,080
and all the extraordinary
things that country holds.
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00:01:30,520 --> 00:01:33,550
So I thought, let's go to Greece
and let's do Greece properly.
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But being me, I want access to
all the places that you can't...
33
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Access all areas is what I
want. I want that badge.
34
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And I want to get to places
that other people can't get to.
35
00:01:42,640 --> 00:01:45,990
You know, extraordinary places,
frightening places, sacred places.
36
00:01:46,040 --> 00:01:52,760
And so where better to start
than Athens and the Acropolis?
37
00:01:53,760 --> 00:01:57,150
'Today, a million people visit
the Acropolis each year,
38
00:01:57,200 --> 00:02:00,320
making it one of Greece's most
popular tourist attractions.'
39
00:02:02,480 --> 00:02:04,670
Fantastic. So many people.
40
00:02:04,720 --> 00:02:07,320
So many tourists for this
incredibly popular place.
41
00:02:08,200 --> 00:02:10,670
'I got to tread where the
tourists aren't allowed
42
00:02:10,720 --> 00:02:13,110
and take you with me up close
43
00:02:13,160 --> 00:02:15,880
to see how this wonder is being rebuilt.'
44
00:02:22,720 --> 00:02:27,630
'It's an architectural masterpiece
made up of 15,000 pieces
45
00:02:27,680 --> 00:02:30,200
weighing 20,000 tonnes.
46
00:02:31,560 --> 00:02:35,600
This is the largest ancient building
created entirely from marble.'
47
00:02:37,560 --> 00:02:39,790
It's always extraordinary
to come to a building
48
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that you know so well
from pictures and drawings
49
00:02:42,880 --> 00:02:44,630
and imitations around the world.
50
00:02:44,680 --> 00:02:48,320
Just to come and stand in it
and to be in this great temple.
51
00:02:49,480 --> 00:02:52,000
Oh, look. Here's the person
I've been longing to meet.
52
00:02:53,240 --> 00:02:56,030
- Oh, Joanna! - Joanna. - How are you?
53
00:02:56,080 --> 00:02:59,520
'Dr Ioannidou is in charge
of the restoration project.
54
00:03:00,880 --> 00:03:03,000
They have a huge task.
55
00:03:04,280 --> 00:03:07,310
Each piece of original
marble must be refitted
56
00:03:07,360 --> 00:03:09,550
with new, freshly-sculpted pieces
57
00:03:09,600 --> 00:03:12,040
to link together the ancient parts.'
58
00:03:13,520 --> 00:03:17,230
- You do this every day.
- Don't look down. Don't look down.
59
00:03:17,280 --> 00:03:19,870
'The restorers working
at these perilous heights
60
00:03:19,920 --> 00:03:22,390
are involved in their
most delicate project --
61
00:03:22,440 --> 00:03:25,630
protecting the marble that
has been ravaged by pollution
62
00:03:25,680 --> 00:03:28,560
and previous botched restoration work.'
63
00:03:30,240 --> 00:03:32,310
- Is this water?
- Yes.
64
00:03:32,360 --> 00:03:34,400
- Yeah.
- Yes, it's water.
65
00:03:35,680 --> 00:03:37,440
- To remove the dust.
- Yes.
66
00:03:38,440 --> 00:03:40,630
This is quite extraordinary
because here we are
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00:03:40,680 --> 00:03:44,150
on one of the most colossal,
monumental buildings in the world,
68
00:03:44,200 --> 00:03:48,110
and look at the size of these
tools that are being used,
69
00:03:48,160 --> 00:03:49,870
like a dentist's pick.
70
00:03:49,920 --> 00:03:53,030
- Yes, they are dentist's tools.
- They are dentist's tools?
71
00:03:53,080 --> 00:03:55,760
- They are dentist's tools.
- Oh, look at this!
72
00:03:57,360 --> 00:03:59,350
'The love and care that the modern Greeks
73
00:03:59,400 --> 00:04:01,470
are lavishing on this matchless monument
74
00:04:01,520 --> 00:04:04,000
are just what this
glorious building deserves.
75
00:04:05,000 --> 00:04:06,910
From the White House in Washington
76
00:04:06,960 --> 00:04:09,270
to the Bank of England
in the City of London,
77
00:04:09,320 --> 00:04:12,470
its architecture has
been slavishly copied --
78
00:04:12,520 --> 00:04:16,430
a symbol of the importance of Greek
culture throughout the world.'
79
00:04:16,480 --> 00:04:19,710
Almost the greatest dread
of my life is vertigo.
80
00:04:19,760 --> 00:04:21,990
As a child, I once got stuck on a ladder
81
00:04:22,040 --> 00:04:24,110
and my sister had to
come and help me down.
82
00:04:24,160 --> 00:04:25,830
I was about seven.
83
00:04:25,880 --> 00:04:29,790
I got stuck and she had to move
every finger and every foot
84
00:04:29,840 --> 00:04:31,510
to take me down.
85
00:04:31,560 --> 00:04:35,670
So coming up here, I
felt that, quite frankly,
86
00:04:35,720 --> 00:04:38,510
I was doing it for the viewers,
87
00:04:38,560 --> 00:04:40,480
that's you, because I love you.
88
00:04:42,600 --> 00:04:45,390
I suppose I'd sort of got in my mind --
89
00:04:45,440 --> 00:04:48,710
why should I? But anyway, I did
-- that Greece is beach holidays.
90
00:04:48,760 --> 00:04:50,870
And I'd forgotten about the mountains,
91
00:04:50,920 --> 00:04:52,750
and the extraordinary interior,
92
00:04:52,800 --> 00:04:55,830
and, of course, the great myths
and legends of ancient Greece.
93
00:04:55,880 --> 00:04:57,670
What an extraordinary...
94
00:04:57,720 --> 00:05:00,430
Most of our life is
built on what Greece was.
95
00:05:00,480 --> 00:05:04,670
But my next postcard isn't going
to come from the Valley of the Muses
96
00:05:04,720 --> 00:05:06,630
or even from the great Mount Olympus.
97
00:05:06,680 --> 00:05:10,310
It's going to come from a little village,
98
00:05:10,360 --> 00:05:13,430
where my gorgeous fixer, and
guide, and friend, Elainy,
99
00:05:13,480 --> 00:05:17,470
took me to an ancient
fortune-telling festival.
100
00:05:17,520 --> 00:05:20,550
Quite strange and... pretty vulgar.
101
00:05:20,600 --> 00:05:23,080
So if you blush easily, look away now.
102
00:05:29,560 --> 00:05:31,230
- Yasas.
- Yasas.
103
00:05:31,280 --> 00:05:32,950
- Yasas.
- Yasas.
104
00:05:33,000 --> 00:05:35,230
'On the village green,
Elainy's introducing me
105
00:05:35,280 --> 00:05:38,190
to some of the members of the
local women's association
106
00:05:38,240 --> 00:05:40,870
who've organised the
fortune-telling festival.
107
00:05:40,920 --> 00:05:43,510
- Including her mother.'
- This is my mum, Ula.
108
00:05:43,560 --> 00:05:45,350
- Ula.
- Ula.
109
00:05:45,400 --> 00:05:48,830
'Items which have been collected
from all the women in the village
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00:05:48,880 --> 00:05:51,920
are placed in a pot of water, or klidonas.
111
00:05:54,360 --> 00:05:57,270
Later on, each object
will be drawn from the pot
112
00:05:57,320 --> 00:05:59,990
and a poem or rhyme read out --
113
00:06:00,040 --> 00:06:01,790
sometimes quite rude --
114
00:06:01,840 --> 00:06:04,160
supposed to foretell the
future of the owner.'
115
00:06:08,960 --> 00:06:12,310
'As the sun goes down, the
entire population of the village
116
00:06:12,360 --> 00:06:14,190
gathers in eager anticipation
117
00:06:14,240 --> 00:06:16,790
of what has become an
annual entertainment.'
118
00:06:22,200 --> 00:06:24,200
~
119
00:06:32,160 --> 00:06:35,550
'Elainy's mother is vice-president
of the women's association
120
00:06:35,600 --> 00:06:37,640
and master of ceremonies.'
121
00:06:40,160 --> 00:06:42,320
~
122
00:06:50,080 --> 00:06:50,940
Is that mine?!
123
00:06:53,840 --> 00:06:55,950
'It's very vulgar...'
124
00:06:56,000 --> 00:06:58,350
It is mine.
125
00:06:58,400 --> 00:07:02,030
'.. but this mixed crowd finds it
funny and completely inoffensive.
126
00:07:02,080 --> 00:07:05,030
The Greek sense of humour has
much in common with Chaucer.'
127
00:07:05,080 --> 00:07:07,080
~
128
00:07:13,240 --> 00:07:15,550
Oh, my God! That's my mum!
129
00:07:16,600 --> 00:07:17,560
Please, stop.
130
00:07:23,160 --> 00:07:26,470
'Although the klidonas festival
celebrated throughout the region
131
00:07:26,520 --> 00:07:29,670
originates in the worship
of ancient Greek gods,
132
00:07:29,720 --> 00:07:32,550
today it seems to be more
of an excuse for a party.'
133
00:07:40,080 --> 00:07:42,870
'The garlands that decorated
the village doors in May
134
00:07:42,920 --> 00:07:46,510
are taken down, dry and dusty,
at the end of the harvest
135
00:07:46,560 --> 00:07:48,310
and thrown onto the bonfire
136
00:07:48,360 --> 00:07:50,480
to symbolise the end
of the farmers' year.'
137
00:07:51,480 --> 00:07:53,470
- Whoa!
- Whoa!
138
00:07:53,520 --> 00:07:55,680
- Look how daring they are.
- Yeah.
139
00:07:56,800 --> 00:07:58,510
Whoa! Little boys!
140
00:07:58,560 --> 00:08:01,030
'To ward off evil spirits
and celebrate the future,
141
00:08:01,080 --> 00:08:03,470
boys from the village leap the bonfire,
142
00:08:03,520 --> 00:08:05,950
quite often singeing
their hair and clothes.'
143
00:08:06,000 --> 00:08:08,160
It's just strangely scary.
144
00:08:09,120 --> 00:08:11,910
The idea of the lost shoe
and the burnt trouser,
145
00:08:11,960 --> 00:08:13,630
you know, everything.
146
00:08:13,680 --> 00:08:16,710
We're going to put these
on now. You come with me.
147
00:08:16,760 --> 00:08:18,670
Just throw them into the fire.
148
00:08:18,720 --> 00:08:21,040
- We have to jump.
- You have to jump. OK, try it.
149
00:08:24,440 --> 00:08:25,430
Take my hand.
150
00:08:25,680 --> 00:08:28,040
Take my hand. One, two, three!
151
00:08:31,880 --> 00:08:34,110
'Fortune-telling and predicting the future
152
00:08:34,160 --> 00:08:36,070
are at the heart of Greek culture.
153
00:08:36,120 --> 00:08:39,030
And not just teasing your
neighbour with some rude rhymes.
154
00:08:39,080 --> 00:08:41,710
Some of them were so rude.
Honestly, I could feel myself --
155
00:08:41,760 --> 00:08:44,590
in translation -- going
crimson. Going... Shocked.
156
00:08:44,640 --> 00:08:46,550
The old grannies were going "hee-hee!"
157
00:08:46,600 --> 00:08:48,550
Thought it was fabulous.
158
00:08:48,600 --> 00:08:51,870
We took a trip from
fabulously modern Greece
159
00:08:51,920 --> 00:08:54,760
to the ancient seat of the oracle.
160
00:08:59,760 --> 00:09:01,600
This is Delphi.
161
00:09:05,160 --> 00:09:08,470
And this is where the oracle lives.
162
00:09:08,520 --> 00:09:11,510
And there's a huge resonance
about this valley.
163
00:09:11,560 --> 00:09:13,440
It's fantastic.
164
00:09:17,320 --> 00:09:19,510
'It seems extraordinary that 100 years ago
165
00:09:19,560 --> 00:09:22,710
this sacred site in the
shadow of Mount Parnassus
166
00:09:22,760 --> 00:09:24,470
was hidden from the world,
167
00:09:24,520 --> 00:09:28,000
covered by 30ft of earth
with a village built on top.
168
00:09:29,000 --> 00:09:31,950
When the French excavated
it, they were astonished
169
00:09:32,000 --> 00:09:35,670
and delighted to find a
ruined city of 3,000 statues,
170
00:09:35,720 --> 00:09:37,880
monuments and temples.'
171
00:09:39,120 --> 00:09:41,350
These steps would have
been alive with pilgrims
172
00:09:41,400 --> 00:09:44,270
plodding up their last, last weary way
173
00:09:44,320 --> 00:09:46,110
at the end of this immense journey
174
00:09:46,160 --> 00:09:48,590
to come to the place they'd
been longing to see...
175
00:09:50,140 --> 00:09:52,280
.. the Temple of Apollo.
176
00:10:02,080 --> 00:10:05,680
'This is how the Temple of Apollo
would have looked in ancient times.'
177
00:10:09,800 --> 00:10:12,670
'The most important decisions
in ancient Greek history
178
00:10:12,720 --> 00:10:14,630
were made by the oracle,
179
00:10:14,680 --> 00:10:17,320
who sat underground in
the centre of the temple.
180
00:10:19,880 --> 00:10:22,710
But scientists today have
discovered that the site was built
181
00:10:22,760 --> 00:10:27,400
on the top of an ancient fault line
which emitted hallucinogenic gases.'
182
00:10:28,560 --> 00:10:31,750
And look here! I've been told about this.
183
00:10:31,800 --> 00:10:35,310
This is where the Delphic oracle...
184
00:10:35,360 --> 00:10:38,470
had her tripod seat. The legs
of the tripod were there.
185
00:10:38,520 --> 00:10:40,790
So her seat... This was
obviously that way round.
186
00:10:40,840 --> 00:10:43,910
The seat was here. And here, in front,
187
00:10:43,960 --> 00:10:47,470
is the hole through which
the methane or ethanol gas
188
00:10:47,520 --> 00:10:49,350
came hurtling out.
189
00:10:49,400 --> 00:10:51,870
Anyway, some sort of mind-altering gas.
190
00:10:51,920 --> 00:10:53,630
And she was sitting on here.
191
00:10:53,680 --> 00:10:55,870
Some people say she was
chewing daphne leaves.
192
00:10:55,920 --> 00:10:58,030
Whatever it was, she was
in a complete trance,
193
00:10:58,080 --> 00:10:59,910
in a complete stewed state,
194
00:10:59,960 --> 00:11:03,150
and so what people asked her... she
was actually talking in tongues.
195
00:11:03,200 --> 00:11:06,150
And, funnily enough, I've seen
this up in the high hills of Hunza
196
00:11:06,200 --> 00:11:09,710
in the Karakorams, where
they inhale juniper smoke.
197
00:11:09,760 --> 00:11:12,350
So people became high as
kites and this prophetess,
198
00:11:12,400 --> 00:11:15,550
this seer, this oracle was high as a kite
199
00:11:15,600 --> 00:11:17,550
and couldn't even speak her own language.
200
00:11:17,600 --> 00:11:20,150
She was just... "La-la-lao-ing"
.. jibbering, jibbering,
201
00:11:20,200 --> 00:11:22,030
and priests listened and interpreted.
202
00:11:22,080 --> 00:11:24,270
And people came and said,
"Should we go to war?"
203
00:11:24,320 --> 00:11:26,710
"Is this a wise thing to
do?" "Should I get married?"
204
00:11:26,760 --> 00:11:29,950
"Should our countries separate?"
"Should we fight with this city?"
205
00:11:30,000 --> 00:11:31,670
And the oracle would... "La-la-lao"
206
00:11:31,720 --> 00:11:33,510
.. and the priests would interpret it.
207
00:11:33,560 --> 00:11:36,310
So the priests were terribly
important and influential.
208
00:11:36,360 --> 00:11:38,030
But the oracle was the thing.
209
00:11:38,080 --> 00:11:41,430
She was always a woman over
50 and she was called Pythia.
210
00:11:41,480 --> 00:11:45,750
Pythia, named after the python
which it's thought Apollo slew.
211
00:11:45,800 --> 00:11:49,190
I know this sounds complicated,
but it's absolutely fascinating
212
00:11:49,240 --> 00:11:51,990
when you can get your head
round it, which I almost have.
213
00:11:52,040 --> 00:11:53,790
I'll just take a whiff of this,
214
00:11:53,840 --> 00:11:56,140
then I could probably
speak to you in tongues.
215
00:12:02,480 --> 00:12:04,910
I can't tell you how thrilling
it is to visit a place
216
00:12:04,960 --> 00:12:07,270
that you've known about
since your childhood.
217
00:12:07,320 --> 00:12:09,350
I remember reading about
the Delphic oracle
218
00:12:09,400 --> 00:12:11,070
when I was still at school.
219
00:12:11,120 --> 00:12:13,350
And then to go to Delphi
and to see it positioned
220
00:12:13,400 --> 00:12:16,390
up on the side of this huge, steep gorge
221
00:12:16,440 --> 00:12:19,150
which leads down to the
sea. And then, from the sea,
222
00:12:19,200 --> 00:12:21,670
if you're a pilgrim or
somebody petitioning --
223
00:12:21,720 --> 00:12:24,030
"Should I go to war?"
"Should I leave my wife?"
224
00:12:24,080 --> 00:12:25,790
"Should I buy an ox?" --
225
00:12:25,840 --> 00:12:28,630
you would see these temples
right up there amongst the gods
226
00:12:28,680 --> 00:12:31,310
and you would know that your
prayers might be answered.
227
00:12:31,360 --> 00:12:35,350
Next, a postcard from someone
I would call a Greek goddess...
228
00:12:35,400 --> 00:12:38,160
and me on a stairway to heaven.
229
00:12:47,200 --> 00:12:52,310
♪ Till the white rose blooms again...
230
00:12:52,360 --> 00:12:54,270
Do you know that voice?
231
00:12:54,320 --> 00:12:56,070
Do you know who that is?
232
00:12:56,120 --> 00:12:59,680
That's Nana Mouskouri singing in 1967.
233
00:13:00,720 --> 00:13:04,110
She was astonishing. I saw her
on television when I was a child,
234
00:13:04,160 --> 00:13:07,030
and I was so taken with
her long, shiny, dark hair
235
00:13:07,080 --> 00:13:11,710
and great, dark, horn-rimmed glasses
which were quite unfashionable.
236
00:13:11,760 --> 00:13:15,430
And she was just incredible.
She had this voice of an angel.
237
00:13:15,480 --> 00:13:18,390
And she went on to become the biggest --
238
00:13:18,440 --> 00:13:24,110
not one of -- the biggest
female singing star of all time.
239
00:13:24,160 --> 00:13:26,590
She made over 200 records
240
00:13:26,640 --> 00:13:29,230
and she sang in ten different languages.
241
00:13:29,280 --> 00:13:31,790
She was truly a global superstar.
242
00:13:31,840 --> 00:13:34,990
But the one place she'd never
sung, and where she longed to,
243
00:13:35,040 --> 00:13:37,750
was the ancient theatre of Epidaurus,
244
00:13:37,800 --> 00:13:40,080
which the Greeks called Epidavros.
245
00:13:44,600 --> 00:13:47,030
Oh, look at this!
246
00:13:47,080 --> 00:13:49,830
Isn't that wonderful?
247
00:13:49,880 --> 00:13:52,870
'Epidavros was built
in the fourth century BC
248
00:13:52,920 --> 00:13:56,670
to honour the god of healing,
Asclepius, son of Apollo.
249
00:13:56,720 --> 00:13:58,630
It was a sanctuary to cure the sick,
250
00:13:58,680 --> 00:14:01,470
and for the Greeks, theatre
was part of the medicine.
251
00:14:01,520 --> 00:14:03,430
There were comedies, singing contests
252
00:14:03,480 --> 00:14:05,440
and great tragic plays.
253
00:14:06,440 --> 00:14:08,350
You can be heard all over the auditorium
254
00:14:08,400 --> 00:14:11,430
by an audience of 15,000,
255
00:14:11,480 --> 00:14:14,310
especially if you stand bang
in the middle of the stage.'
256
00:14:16,560 --> 00:14:19,630
- Have you sung here? - No. - No?
257
00:14:19,680 --> 00:14:23,190
No, I haven't had this...
this honour, really.
258
00:14:23,240 --> 00:14:26,800
It's the dream of every...
I think, of every singer.
259
00:14:28,240 --> 00:14:29,990
'Trained as a classical singer,
260
00:14:30,040 --> 00:14:33,510
the young Nana was cast to sing
in the chorus of an opera here,
261
00:14:33,560 --> 00:14:36,030
but at the last moment, she was dismissed
262
00:14:36,080 --> 00:14:39,510
simply because she was
considered to be a pop star.'
263
00:14:39,560 --> 00:14:41,870
The acoustics are so
special. Can we test them?
264
00:14:41,920 --> 00:14:44,480
You don't think you'd sing?
265
00:14:45,920 --> 00:14:48,230
- Should I try? - Will
you please try? - OK.
266
00:14:48,280 --> 00:14:50,750
- Nana, will you...?
- I'll try. I don't know what to do.
267
00:14:50,800 --> 00:14:52,870
I did not rehearse, I did not...
268
00:14:52,920 --> 00:14:55,510
But it's a pleasure. Yes, I will do it.
269
00:14:57,360 --> 00:15:00,040
- Miss Mouskouri, this is
your five-minute call. - OK.
270
00:15:01,720 --> 00:15:03,910
'I should be able to hear Nana perfectly
271
00:15:03,960 --> 00:15:06,510
right up at the back, 200ft away.
272
00:15:06,560 --> 00:15:09,470
The shape of the theatre and
the use of limestone rock
273
00:15:09,520 --> 00:15:11,390
reflect the sound perfectly.'
274
00:15:11,440 --> 00:15:14,790
So, Joanna, I'm on the right spot.
275
00:15:14,840 --> 00:15:18,150
- Can you hear me?
- I can hear you, Nana!
276
00:15:18,200 --> 00:15:26,470
♪ Ave Maria
277
00:15:26,520 --> 00:15:32,720
♪ Gratia plena
278
00:15:33,520 --> 00:15:40,190
♪ Maria gratia plena
279
00:15:40,240 --> 00:15:46,590
♪ Maria gratia plena...
280
00:15:46,640 --> 00:15:49,950
I first saw Nana Mouskouri when
I was in my teens, I suppose.
281
00:15:50,000 --> 00:15:52,040
I mean, I didn't see...
282
00:15:53,040 --> 00:15:56,630
And it's just so odd, as
life goes by, that you...
283
00:15:56,680 --> 00:15:58,950
you get to meet some of these great gods.
284
00:15:59,000 --> 00:16:04,320
♪ Maria ♪
285
00:16:07,060 --> 00:16:08,830
Bravo, Nana!
286
00:16:14,520 --> 00:16:16,990
~
287
00:16:17,040 --> 00:16:21,270
What's extraordinary about any
rehearsal or any orchestra...
288
00:16:26,640 --> 00:16:30,390
Well, that was something,
to be in Epidavros
289
00:16:30,440 --> 00:16:32,520
and to hear Nana Mouskouri singing...
290
00:16:33,640 --> 00:16:35,950
.. for a tiny house on a Monday evening,
291
00:16:36,000 --> 00:16:39,520
but... just sort of in
the lap of the gods.
292
00:16:40,880 --> 00:16:42,910
When you're making a
film series like this,
293
00:16:42,960 --> 00:16:44,710
you have to arrange to meet people,
294
00:16:44,760 --> 00:16:46,630
important people like Nana Mouskouri.
295
00:16:46,680 --> 00:16:48,350
And actually, we always try to plan
296
00:16:48,400 --> 00:16:50,190
to see who we're going to speak to next.
297
00:16:50,240 --> 00:16:52,150
We went down to the Mani peninsula
298
00:16:52,200 --> 00:16:54,950
to speak to a young man who
lived in an abandoned village.
299
00:16:55,000 --> 00:16:57,670
But when we got there, not
only was the village abandoned,
300
00:16:57,720 --> 00:17:00,790
he'd abandoned the village. He'd
gone to Athens to do something.
301
00:17:00,840 --> 00:17:02,910
I don't know, go to a
nightclub or something.
302
00:17:02,960 --> 00:17:05,390
We went, "Who should we talk
to?" Just at that moment,
303
00:17:05,440 --> 00:17:07,990
we saw Kyria Antonia,
walking by the roadside,
304
00:17:08,040 --> 00:17:10,390
a very little old woman.
She was his mother!
305
00:17:10,440 --> 00:17:14,030
So we said, "Let's talk to her.
Let's talk to Kyria Antonia."
306
00:17:14,080 --> 00:17:15,870
- Yasas.
- Yasas.
307
00:17:15,920 --> 00:17:18,920
- ~
- ~
308
00:17:22,160 --> 00:17:23,950
It's a dead end.
309
00:17:24,000 --> 00:17:26,990
And so no cafe or anything? Nowhere
we can get a cup of coffee,
310
00:17:27,040 --> 00:17:28,990
or stop, or eat something?
311
00:17:29,040 --> 00:17:31,350
~
312
00:17:31,400 --> 00:17:33,190
But she just invited us.
313
00:17:33,240 --> 00:17:36,480
- We can have a coffee at her house.
- Oh, that would be wonderful!
314
00:17:39,200 --> 00:17:41,270
~
315
00:17:41,320 --> 00:17:44,000
Tell me, what is it
like in the winter here?
316
00:17:51,840 --> 00:17:53,710
It must be very cold. There's no...
317
00:17:53,760 --> 00:17:55,750
What does...? What does she live on?
318
00:17:55,800 --> 00:17:57,800
~
319
00:18:16,640 --> 00:18:18,950
Mm!
320
00:18:19,000 --> 00:18:20,880
Very strong, beautiful...
321
00:18:22,280 --> 00:18:24,080
.. aromatic...
322
00:18:26,800 --> 00:18:28,640
'Oh, well. I'm not fussy.
323
00:18:30,240 --> 00:18:34,550
Kyria Antonia lives a solitary
life in this abandoned village.
324
00:18:34,600 --> 00:18:38,310
The village is empty, not because of
the blood feuds which erupted here,
325
00:18:38,360 --> 00:18:40,710
but because of urbanisation.
326
00:18:40,760 --> 00:18:43,550
Everybody simply moved away.
327
00:18:43,600 --> 00:18:47,750
And Kyria lives this solitary,
brave, fearless existence.
328
00:18:47,800 --> 00:18:49,590
I couldn't do it.'
329
00:18:49,640 --> 00:18:52,550
Gosh, what slim pickings!
330
00:18:52,600 --> 00:18:55,720
Looking for little
strands of wild asparagus.
331
00:18:56,720 --> 00:18:58,390
- I pick? - Hm! - Yeah?
332
00:18:58,440 --> 00:19:00,670
~
333
00:19:00,720 --> 00:19:03,310
That one? This one, oh.
334
00:19:03,360 --> 00:19:05,160
Wild asparagus.
335
00:19:06,160 --> 00:19:08,350
Kyria obviously has got a much sharper eye
336
00:19:08,400 --> 00:19:10,750
cos she can see exactly
what she's looking for.
337
00:19:10,800 --> 00:19:13,070
And erm... I just hope
that we get enough together
338
00:19:13,120 --> 00:19:16,320
so we can have a little supper,
which she's promised to cook me.
339
00:19:20,080 --> 00:19:22,510
~
340
00:19:22,560 --> 00:19:25,870
'The wild asparagus is cooked
in the simplest possible way --
341
00:19:25,920 --> 00:19:28,790
boiled for ten minutes in
water, a little bit of salt,
342
00:19:28,840 --> 00:19:31,110
and then it's almost ready to serve,
343
00:19:31,160 --> 00:19:33,400
except for one last vital ingredient.'
344
00:19:35,120 --> 00:19:37,270
Lemons as sweet as oranges.
345
00:19:37,320 --> 00:19:39,320
Huge, beautiful lemons.
346
00:19:43,920 --> 00:19:45,990
- ~
- Mm!
347
00:19:46,040 --> 00:19:47,830
- ~
- Mm!
348
00:19:49,680 --> 00:19:51,590
It's absolutely beautiful.
349
00:19:51,640 --> 00:19:56,350
Kyria, why do you still stay
here when there's nobody here?
350
00:19:56,400 --> 00:19:58,400
~
351
00:20:05,160 --> 00:20:07,880
Kyria, would you ever
like to live in a city?
352
00:20:11,400 --> 00:20:13,520
Did you like it?
353
00:20:17,040 --> 00:20:19,680
Kyria, do you get lonely here?
354
00:20:27,000 --> 00:20:28,870
Well, that was remote.
355
00:20:28,920 --> 00:20:31,870
But the next place we went to was
honestly out of Game Of Thrones.
356
00:20:31,920 --> 00:20:34,630
You come around the corner, you
begin to see them, and you go,
357
00:20:34,680 --> 00:20:37,190
"Oh, what is this?!" These
are places so unbelievable.
358
00:20:37,240 --> 00:20:39,350
You can't really climb
up them. You have to...
359
00:20:39,400 --> 00:20:41,630
Food is taken up in baskets.
360
00:20:41,680 --> 00:20:44,230
They've got no water,
they've got no electricity.
361
00:20:44,280 --> 00:20:46,990
What?! What are they doing?
362
00:20:47,040 --> 00:20:49,640
It was actually fabulous.
363
00:20:50,640 --> 00:20:53,630
'Just when I thought Greece
couldn't be any more surprising
364
00:20:53,680 --> 00:20:56,110
we come across one of the
most extraordinary places
365
00:20:56,160 --> 00:20:58,000
in the country.'
366
00:21:03,560 --> 00:21:07,110
'These incredible rock formations
were made by river sediment
367
00:21:07,160 --> 00:21:10,120
when the area was underwater
millions of years ago.
368
00:21:11,480 --> 00:21:14,750
Weathering by water, wind
and extremes of temperature
369
00:21:14,800 --> 00:21:18,680
then moulded them into the kind
of bizarre shapes we see today.
370
00:21:20,800 --> 00:21:24,190
In the 14th century, Christian
monks fled into the hills
371
00:21:24,240 --> 00:21:26,240
to avoid persecution from the Turks.
372
00:21:27,360 --> 00:21:31,790
They built 24 monasteries on
top of these phenomenal rocks.
373
00:21:31,840 --> 00:21:34,990
And everything -- monks,
materials and supplies --
374
00:21:35,040 --> 00:21:37,200
had to be winched up on ropes.
375
00:21:40,120 --> 00:21:43,150
I've travelled pretty widely, but
I don't think I've ever been to
376
00:21:43,200 --> 00:21:45,110
a more extraordinary place than this.
377
00:21:45,160 --> 00:21:46,830
I can't think of a better place
378
00:21:46,880 --> 00:21:49,380
to end my fantastic journey
through this country.'
379
00:21:50,360 --> 00:21:53,110
Do you wish you were here? Then go!
380
00:21:53,160 --> 00:21:56,830
Join me next time for more
postcards from my travels.
30765
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