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1
00:00:08,880 --> 00:00:11,240
The far north.
2
00:00:11,240 --> 00:00:13,480
Quite overpowering.
3
00:00:13,480 --> 00:00:16,480
Vast expanses, silent fjords.
4
00:00:16,480 --> 00:00:19,080
Fairy tale mountains.
5
00:00:20,080 --> 00:00:22,120
It's just fabulously beautiful.
6
00:00:22,160 --> 00:00:28,000
The land of the magical
Northern Lights is somewhere
I've longed for all my life.
7
00:00:28,040 --> 00:00:31,000
It is quite incredibly cold!
8
00:00:31,040 --> 00:00:33,960
Well, I suppose, it's Arctic!
9
00:00:33,960 --> 00:00:38,640
'As a little girl, I lived in the
steamy heat of tropical Malaysia
10
00:00:38,640 --> 00:00:43,240
'and, wonderful as it was,
I used to yearn to be cold.
11
00:00:43,280 --> 00:00:47,480
'Putting on a cardigan
was a huge treat.
12
00:00:47,520 --> 00:00:50,320
'I'd never even seen snow.
13
00:00:50,320 --> 00:00:54,800
'But my storybooks were full
of snow queens and trolls
14
00:00:54,840 --> 00:00:58,440
'and now I'm entering that world. '
15
00:00:58,480 --> 00:01:04,480
It's fantastic! We're so far north.
Can we get further north?
.. I think so.
16
00:01:06,080 --> 00:01:10,480
'This is the journey
I've always dreamt of making. '
17
00:01:12,720 --> 00:01:19,880
I feel I've come
into another world now.
No people, except you... and us.
18
00:01:19,880 --> 00:01:26,480
'And if we're very lucky, we might
see the elusive Northern Lights
themselves.
19
00:01:26,520 --> 00:01:28,480
This programme contains
some strong language
20
00:01:35,000 --> 00:01:39,880
'My Arctic odyssey begins
one chill dawn in early March.
21
00:01:41,720 --> 00:01:45,720
'I'm already 900 miles north
of my home in London. '
22
00:01:45,720 --> 00:01:52,960
Is this us?
'An eight-hour journey lies ahead
to get to the Arctic Circle.
23
00:01:53,000 --> 00:01:58,240
'And I'm heading there on
Norway's real-life Polar Express. '
24
00:02:14,240 --> 00:02:19,320
It's really fresh here, bits of snow
blowing in as I look out.
25
00:02:19,360 --> 00:02:23,320
They say don't stick your head
out of the window.
26
00:02:37,400 --> 00:02:42,080
One of the most exciting things
about going on a trip is packing.
27
00:02:42,080 --> 00:02:46,120
This lovely old suitcase,
which came from my childhood...
28
00:02:46,160 --> 00:02:52,400
All our luggage was marked the same
way. Mum used to stencil "Lumley"
on it and paint the corners red
29
00:02:52,440 --> 00:02:58,160
so that we could see them on
the quayside, ready to board ship.
You never flew in those days.
30
00:02:58,200 --> 00:03:01,960
So I'd pack up things
that were essential on every trip.
31
00:03:02,000 --> 00:03:05,240
In here I have oil-based pastels,
32
00:03:05,240 --> 00:03:11,800
and a lovely little drawing book
with coloured pages so you can
draw in different colours.
33
00:03:11,800 --> 00:03:14,760
These I got here. Chocolates!
34
00:03:14,800 --> 00:03:20,480
A lovely old guide book.
It's called The Land of the Vikings.
Beautiful old maps.
35
00:03:22,880 --> 00:03:25,560
Look at that!
36
00:03:27,400 --> 00:03:32,400
'But if it wasn't for one item in
my case, I wouldn't be here at all. '
37
00:03:32,400 --> 00:03:38,400
This is the book Ponny the Penguin.
This is when I first heard
of the Northern Lights.
38
00:03:38,440 --> 00:03:42,400
I was a little child in Malaya,
six or seven years old.
39
00:03:42,400 --> 00:03:49,400
It's written by an Australian,
Veronica Basser. So the lights were
the Aurora Australis, not Borealis.
40
00:03:49,440 --> 00:03:52,960
And there was this picture
which haunted me
41
00:03:52,960 --> 00:03:59,560
of a sort of rippling curtain
and a little tiny penguin.
Anyway...
42
00:03:59,560 --> 00:04:05,560
There's Ponny. "Suddenly the sky was
lit up by long, searching fingers
of pale, primrose light
43
00:04:05,600 --> 00:04:09,640
"which traced patterns
across its inky blackness. "
44
00:04:09,640 --> 00:04:15,640
That stayed with me for ever
and ever and I couldn't believe
I'd get to growing up
45
00:04:15,680 --> 00:04:20,560
and leaving school and getting
married and having granddaughters
46
00:04:20,560 --> 00:04:24,680
and still not have seen
what Ponny the Penguin saw,
47
00:04:24,720 --> 00:04:30,720
so this is a lifelong ambition
and my only dread is
that we won't get to see them.
48
00:04:31,960 --> 00:04:37,000
'To give myself every chance,
I'm going to travel ever northwards,
49
00:04:37,040 --> 00:04:41,720
'spending my nights staring up
with hope at the dark sky
50
00:04:41,720 --> 00:04:48,640
'and filling my days
with as wide a range of experiences
of Norway's far north as possible. '
51
00:04:48,640 --> 00:04:55,080
This is going to be the furthest
north I've ever got
and about as far as you can get
52
00:04:55,120 --> 00:04:57,960
without being Ranulph Fiennes.
53
00:04:57,960 --> 00:05:04,080
Looking at this extraordinary
backbone of Norway,
which is like a huge spinal cord,
54
00:05:04,080 --> 00:05:08,080
we're about there
and travelling on up.
55
00:05:09,240 --> 00:05:12,160
And it's just... just thrilling
56
00:05:12,160 --> 00:05:18,200
and always the pull
of the magnetic north, the most
senior point on the compass.
57
00:05:18,240 --> 00:05:25,560
What I love is always knowing
where the north is. This is
important, wherever you are,
58
00:05:25,600 --> 00:05:32,880
otherwise you just feel foolish.
At the moment, I am heading
and travelling due north.
59
00:05:47,720 --> 00:05:52,400
'I could just clatter across
the Arctic Circle on the train,
60
00:05:53,560 --> 00:06:00,880
'but actually I'm going to do it
in real style. This is, after all,
the realisation of a lifelong dream.
61
00:06:03,560 --> 00:06:07,560
'This is not your average taxi rank
at the station.
62
00:06:07,560 --> 00:06:12,320
'I'm in the hands of Tore
Christiansen and his 11 sled dogs. '
63
00:06:12,320 --> 00:06:16,360
Good morning. I'm Joanna.
How nice to see you, Tore.
64
00:06:16,400 --> 00:06:24,240
These are wonderful dogs.
What kind are they? Alaskan huskies.
Alaskan huskies? Yes, so...
65
00:06:24,280 --> 00:06:28,800
They like to run.
They like to run? Yes.
66
00:07:07,960 --> 00:07:14,640
This has been the most
extraordinary journey, racing along
in this beautiful little sled
67
00:07:14,640 --> 00:07:21,240
with Tore shouting instructions
to these 11 fine huskies.
They don't like stopping to rest.
68
00:07:21,280 --> 00:07:24,040
They just want to be on the journey.
69
00:07:24,080 --> 00:07:28,640
When we're running over virgin snow,
their footprints are blue.
70
00:07:28,640 --> 00:07:30,640
Pale blue.
71
00:07:30,640 --> 00:07:36,960
It's the most extraordinary way
to cross the Arctic Circle,
but I haven't crossed it yet!
72
00:07:40,320 --> 00:07:47,080
'The Arctic Circle, like
the Equator, is an imaginary line
right around the roof of the world.
73
00:07:48,800 --> 00:07:54,880
'It marks the point at which
you are so far north that on one day
a year, the Winter Solstice,
74
00:07:54,920 --> 00:08:00,640
'the sun never rises,
while at the height of summer
it never sets.
75
00:08:01,640 --> 00:08:05,440
'As well as being imaginary,
the trouble with the Arctic Circle
76
00:08:05,480 --> 00:08:12,640
'is that, because the Earth
shifts slightly on its axis,
it has a habit of moving.
77
00:08:13,720 --> 00:08:18,680
'I need to find 66 degrees
33.706 north -
78
00:08:18,720 --> 00:08:23,720
'the precise latitude for
the Arctic Circle this very day,
79
00:08:23,760 --> 00:08:28,800
'as supplied to me
by the Greenwich Royal Observatory.
80
00:08:30,720 --> 00:08:39,320
'Bearing due north, I hope orbiting
satellites tell my fancy satnav GPS
machine when I hit the right spot. '
81
00:08:41,560 --> 00:08:44,400
Oh! Stop, stop, stop!
82
00:08:46,000 --> 00:08:47,800
Just here.
83
00:08:51,560 --> 00:08:53,240
So...
84
00:08:53,280 --> 00:08:54,960
703...
85
00:08:56,240 --> 00:08:59,880
704. 705.
86
00:09:01,320 --> 00:09:03,120
705.
87
00:09:03,160 --> 00:09:06,000
I could put this down here.
88
00:09:06,040 --> 00:09:08,680
Stay, scarf. There.
89
00:09:08,720 --> 00:09:11,320
There. Stay, scarf.
90
00:09:11,320 --> 00:09:13,880
There.
91
00:09:13,880 --> 00:09:16,160
Arctic Circle.
92
00:09:16,160 --> 00:09:18,480
Seven...
93
00:09:18,520 --> 00:09:20,800
66, 33.705.
94
00:09:23,320 --> 00:09:25,240
706!
95
00:09:25,240 --> 00:09:28,080
I've walked into the Arctic Circle!
96
00:09:29,160 --> 00:09:35,400
That's just...
That's just the ordinary world.
And this is the Arctic Circle!
97
00:09:35,440 --> 00:09:37,680
And that...
98
00:09:37,720 --> 00:09:39,880
.. is due north.
99
00:09:39,880 --> 00:09:43,480
Ohh.
I think this is quite incredible.
100
00:09:45,160 --> 00:09:47,400
That's due north.
101
00:09:49,400 --> 00:09:52,480
Excellent job, dogs!
102
00:10:00,960 --> 00:10:05,560
'I'm in the Arctic now
and for the rest of my journey north
103
00:10:05,560 --> 00:10:10,160
'I can obviously call myself
an explorer, not a tourist. '
104
00:10:17,080 --> 00:10:23,160
'It's time to stop hurtling around
and give myself a chance
to stand and stare.
105
00:10:23,160 --> 00:10:29,560
'I've chosen a region renowned for
some of Scandinavia's finest scenery
and richest fishing waters -
106
00:10:29,560 --> 00:10:32,400
'the Lofoten Islands,
107
00:10:32,400 --> 00:10:36,880
'but I'm drawn mainly by the charm
of a name on the map.
108
00:10:36,880 --> 00:10:44,720
'It's not A, but "Aw".
And it's not the first, but the last
letter of the Norwegian alphabet.
109
00:10:49,320 --> 00:10:54,120
'Arriving by night, A certainly
feels like the back of beyond.
110
00:10:54,160 --> 00:10:58,640
'Cloud cover rules out any prospect
of seeing the Northern Lights. '
111
00:10:58,640 --> 00:11:01,280
This is right out over the sea.
112
00:11:01,320 --> 00:11:09,080
'Retired schoolmaster and local
bigwig Otto Schotz shows me to my
own rorbu, or fisherman's cottage. '
113
00:11:10,480 --> 00:11:13,080
Oh, how wonderful!
114
00:11:15,240 --> 00:11:20,000
Why did you choose Norway
and this Nordic Norway?
115
00:11:20,000 --> 00:11:25,160
I must tell you. I've had a dream
all my life of coming to the north.
116
00:11:25,160 --> 00:11:30,240
When I was a child, I had this idea
of seeing the Northern Lights.
117
00:11:30,240 --> 00:11:36,880
And in my books I could read
about the snow and the north
and I longed to go there.
118
00:11:36,920 --> 00:11:39,960
And, in fact, once, as a child,
119
00:11:40,960 --> 00:11:46,040
out in Malaysia, for the coronation,
when the Queen was crowned in 1953,
120
00:11:46,080 --> 00:11:52,720
my sister and I dressed in fancy
dress and here is me, seven years
old, dressed as a Norwegian girl.
121
00:11:52,760 --> 00:11:57,400
My mother made fancy dress costumes
for my sister and myself.
122
00:11:57,400 --> 00:12:01,840
She plaited our hair very carefully
to look like little Norwegian girls.
123
00:12:01,880 --> 00:12:08,800
Do I look like a Norwegian girl?
Yes, I think you already here
dream about the Nordic countries.
124
00:12:08,800 --> 00:12:12,680
You can see it?
I can see it in your eyes.
125
00:12:12,720 --> 00:12:17,520
Do you think I may have
Viking blood? Yes, that, too.
126
00:12:17,560 --> 00:12:24,240
Are you a Viking? I think you are.
Yes, I must have
Viking blood in me, yes.
127
00:12:24,240 --> 00:12:28,760
Well, this is just fantastic.
It's so beautiful.
128
00:12:28,800 --> 00:12:34,400
'One thing that didn't feature
in my childhood dreams of the north
was dried fish.
129
00:12:34,400 --> 00:12:38,520
'So what's this swinging ominously
in the middle of the room?'
130
00:12:38,560 --> 00:12:45,080
Yes, this is a cod. Yeah.
But this is a special cod. Yeah.
Called king cod.
131
00:12:45,120 --> 00:12:47,400
King cod? Yes.
132
00:12:47,400 --> 00:12:53,640
They wanted it to tell them
the weather. How?
How did it do it? Did it...?
133
00:12:53,680 --> 00:12:57,760
Before the weather changed,
it started to turn out.
134
00:12:57,800 --> 00:13:05,000
People could read out from that
indications of storms
and other changes in the weather.
135
00:13:05,040 --> 00:13:08,960
Such a fish, would it hang
in every rorbu? Yes.
136
00:13:08,960 --> 00:13:13,600
In every rorbu and in many homes.
They also brought luck.
137
00:13:13,640 --> 00:13:20,000
It's dark outside,
but tomorrow I can't wait
to see where I am.
138
00:13:36,960 --> 00:13:39,400
GULLS CRY
139
00:13:46,800 --> 00:13:48,720
Astonishing!
140
00:13:51,240 --> 00:13:57,880
Well, this is just unbelievable.
It's just...
It's just fabulously beautiful.
141
00:13:59,720 --> 00:14:05,560
All through the night,
I could just hear this water
dashing under
142
00:14:05,600 --> 00:14:08,560
and the seagulls crying and crying.
143
00:14:17,720 --> 00:14:20,120
'Time to explore A
144
00:14:20,160 --> 00:14:24,720
'and an unmistakable smell
is luring me uphill.
145
00:14:26,320 --> 00:14:30,320
'This is as strange a sight
as you'll ever see -
146
00:14:30,360 --> 00:14:34,400
'thousands of headless cod
hung up on poles. '
147
00:14:47,160 --> 00:14:51,880
Do you speak English? Sorry?
No? English?
148
00:14:51,880 --> 00:14:57,400
Polish. Poland.
You're Poland? And you? Poland.
149
00:14:57,400 --> 00:15:03,880
Three Poland? Yes.
'It seems in Norway, like in the UK,
it's the Poles who do the work,
150
00:15:03,880 --> 00:15:07,880
'but I've never seen Poles
on poles before. '
151
00:15:07,880 --> 00:15:10,480
Um, how many fish?
152
00:15:10,480 --> 00:15:14,400
I don't know. You don't know.
153
00:15:15,480 --> 00:15:20,760
'Within a month, nearly five million
cod will be hung out to dry here.
154
00:15:20,800 --> 00:15:26,320
'We know the Vikings invaded Britain
with Lofoten dried fish
in their knapsacks.
155
00:15:26,360 --> 00:15:31,160
'Back then drying was about the only
option for preserving protein.
156
00:15:31,160 --> 00:15:37,640
'It's more of a surprise to me
that this delicacy remains one of
Norway's most profitable exports. '
157
00:15:37,640 --> 00:15:44,320
Smells of fish, but not a bad smell.
Just a pretty sort of
all-pervasive aroma of fish.
158
00:15:47,560 --> 00:15:52,440
Thank you. Spasibo.
HE REPLIES IN POLISH
159
00:15:52,480 --> 00:15:57,480
What's that?! It might be
something terrible! Goodbye, guys.
160
00:16:00,560 --> 00:16:06,480
'As I was pottering around,
I bumped into a man who turns out
to be A's lord of the manor,
161
00:16:06,520 --> 00:16:08,520
'Sigur Elingsen'
162
00:16:08,560 --> 00:16:10,920
I am born here. Yeah?
163
00:16:10,960 --> 00:16:18,000
So I'm the fifth generation and
my grandson is going to take over.
He's working in the summer.
164
00:16:18,040 --> 00:16:21,080
The seventh generation on this spot.
165
00:16:21,080 --> 00:16:25,560
When you say working here,
you own this? Yes.
166
00:16:25,560 --> 00:16:29,200
You own A? A and Tind!
And Tind! Yes.
167
00:16:29,240 --> 00:16:32,800
And how many rorbu do you have here?
168
00:16:32,800 --> 00:16:37,320
70 houses.
Because the fishing is good. Yeah.
169
00:16:37,320 --> 00:16:44,400
We are the closest spot
to the Gulf Stream
and that's where the best fishes are.
170
00:16:44,440 --> 00:16:49,640
This has been going on for hundreds
of years. More than that. Really?
171
00:16:49,640 --> 00:16:55,400
'Fish facts are fascinating,
even for a fake fur-wearing
vegetarian like me
172
00:16:55,400 --> 00:17:01,640
'who doesn't even feel comfortable
with leather. What about the catch
I'm after, the Northern Lights?'
173
00:17:01,680 --> 00:17:05,320
Will I see them, do you think, here?
Not now.
174
00:17:05,360 --> 00:17:08,160
I think it's not cold enough.
175
00:17:08,200 --> 00:17:10,240
And, eh...
176
00:17:10,240 --> 00:17:16,080
No, it must be colder. Yeah.
And then it's flashing
all over the sky.
177
00:17:16,120 --> 00:17:18,640
It's absolutely marvellous. Is it?
178
00:17:34,720 --> 00:17:39,880
The great thing about A seems to be,
probably because we're so far up,
179
00:17:39,880 --> 00:17:46,160
the light comes in a different way.
So colours seem really...
fresh washed.
180
00:17:46,200 --> 00:17:50,200
Everything seems
so clean and sharp.
181
00:17:50,240 --> 00:17:54,480
And the other thing I love is
the conjunction of colours.
182
00:17:54,520 --> 00:17:58,800
They have these dark red houses
with the most beautiful,
183
00:17:58,800 --> 00:18:04,600
light, warm, sax-blue
window frames and corners.
184
00:18:04,640 --> 00:18:10,960
And then white round the windows to
bring in as much light as possible.
It's a fashion going out in England.
185
00:18:11,000 --> 00:18:17,080
A lot of people have brown wood
round the windows. Don't do it!
Paint your brown windows white.
186
00:18:17,080 --> 00:18:21,720
You'll have a much happier life.
I'm going to do the boulders now.
187
00:18:26,560 --> 00:18:31,240
I want the white to look white,
so I'll give it more energy.
188
00:18:34,720 --> 00:18:39,400
This is a very cloudy, stormy sky
with that slightly yellowish green.
189
00:18:41,320 --> 00:18:47,320
I think there always comes a time
in anything you do, like drawing
and painting, or acting,
190
00:18:47,360 --> 00:18:53,400
when you think, "Will I ever be
good enough to please myself,
let alone anybody else?
191
00:18:53,400 --> 00:19:00,320
"Will I ever come up to scratch?"
Or people lean over you and go,
"Aren't his eyes more like...?"
192
00:19:00,360 --> 00:19:06,840
"Yes, I know. I'm dealing with
the eye later. " I can't bear being
judged on things like this.
193
00:19:06,880 --> 00:19:13,320
They're only for fun and if
it pleases you, which it might not,
try to make it please you.
194
00:19:13,360 --> 00:19:19,080
Try to do things that please you.
And if it's not good enough,
get better.
195
00:19:19,120 --> 00:19:23,880
This isn't going to be exhibited
anywhere. Except on the television!
196
00:19:31,240 --> 00:19:36,640
'If there is one image and one word
synonymous with Norway
it is fjord.
197
00:19:37,720 --> 00:19:42,160
'Otto whisks me away
into a world of romance.
198
00:19:53,320 --> 00:19:57,360
'Fjords like these are
so quintessentially picturesque
199
00:19:57,400 --> 00:20:01,240
'that they've come to define
our romantic vision of the north -
200
00:20:01,280 --> 00:20:06,160
'sublime, savage
and quite overpowering. '
201
00:20:09,400 --> 00:20:15,600
These mountains are quite wonderful.
They look like fairy story
mountains, don't they?
202
00:20:15,640 --> 00:20:21,800
As though they'd have trolls
in them. Many fairy tales
are connected to them. Giants.
203
00:20:21,800 --> 00:20:27,160
And many trolls.
And there, you see, the top there.
204
00:20:27,200 --> 00:20:29,560
That was a beautiful lady.
205
00:20:33,800 --> 00:20:36,400
It's quite cold out here.
206
00:20:46,320 --> 00:20:50,600
'In the 19th century, this type
of scenery inspired writers,
207
00:20:50,640 --> 00:20:56,720
'artists and composers like Grieg
to write down folk tunes
and fairy tales
208
00:20:56,720 --> 00:20:59,560
'and paint the landscape.
209
00:21:01,320 --> 00:21:06,040
'In doing so, they helped forge
a national identity for Norway,
210
00:21:06,080 --> 00:21:10,720
'and an image of the north that
struck a chord with people like me,
211
00:21:10,760 --> 00:21:14,800
'a seven-year-old with
my story books in tropical Malaysia.
212
00:21:18,240 --> 00:21:22,280
'Artists today remain inspired
by the Lofoten Islands.
213
00:21:22,320 --> 00:21:28,320
'I'm off to visit the studio
of one of them, Thor Essissen. '
214
00:21:28,320 --> 00:21:34,280
How do you do?
How lovely to meet you.
Welcome to my gallery.
215
00:21:34,320 --> 00:21:40,600
It's fantastic! It's my life.
I have all things here.
Yes, you do. You do.
216
00:21:40,640 --> 00:21:46,480
This is one of the most beautiful
parts of the world I have ever been.
Isn't it? Here.
217
00:21:46,480 --> 00:21:48,720
All I can say, yes!
218
00:21:49,960 --> 00:21:54,400
I am so lucky.
You're a lucky man, a good man.
219
00:21:54,400 --> 00:21:57,040
'Thor's every bit the modern artist,
220
00:21:57,080 --> 00:22:04,400
'assembling his art from anything
and everything. That goes for
his studio and even his outfit,
221
00:22:04,400 --> 00:22:08,560
'but he's just as much inspired
by nature as the Romantics.
222
00:22:08,600 --> 00:22:12,720
'It's the quality of the light here
that most inspires him. '
223
00:22:12,720 --> 00:22:17,560
Tell me, describe for me
the Northern Lights.
224
00:22:18,560 --> 00:22:21,480
I can try! Will you try?
225
00:22:22,480 --> 00:22:25,440
Maybe four weeks ago
226
00:22:25,480 --> 00:22:30,560
I went around the little sea here
in the night.
227
00:22:30,560 --> 00:22:32,640
And so I see
228
00:22:32,640 --> 00:22:37,640
red and green, little light,
is coming.
229
00:22:37,640 --> 00:22:43,320
And I stand up and see
and so the light come, come, come!
230
00:22:43,360 --> 00:22:45,760
And around me.
231
00:22:45,800 --> 00:22:51,880
I have never seen it before.
I stood after it, three minutes.
232
00:22:51,880 --> 00:22:58,320
How extraordinary.
I see nothing more.
It touched you? It came? Yes, yes!
233
00:22:58,320 --> 00:23:00,560
So near me, I think.
234
00:23:00,560 --> 00:23:05,280
I think so.
But I be not afraid. No.
235
00:23:05,320 --> 00:23:12,560
I want more than anything
to see the Northern Lights. Have
you seen it? Never. You will see it.
236
00:23:12,560 --> 00:23:15,400
For sure? Yes.
237
00:23:16,240 --> 00:23:18,240
I promise!
238
00:23:25,320 --> 00:23:30,880
'Despite Thor's promise,
as night fell
the clouds came in again. '
239
00:23:33,320 --> 00:23:38,160
The truth is I'm passionate
about finding out about the north
240
00:23:38,200 --> 00:23:42,600
and the Arctic Circle
and the Norse people and legends,
241
00:23:42,640 --> 00:23:47,200
but what's really driven me is the
idea of seeing the Northern Lights,
242
00:23:47,240 --> 00:23:53,240
something I've longed for
for 55 years of my life. I've dreamt
about seeing the Northern Lights.
243
00:23:53,280 --> 00:23:59,480
I just can't bear the thought
of going home without seeing them
on this trip.
244
00:23:59,520 --> 00:24:03,600
'My bags are packed,
spirits a bit low.
245
00:24:03,640 --> 00:24:10,320
'As the film crew sort
their equipment,
I take one last stroll around A.'
246
00:24:10,360 --> 00:24:13,320
Look, look, it's gone.
247
00:24:14,240 --> 00:24:15,960
Ah!
248
00:24:15,960 --> 00:24:18,040
It's gone now.
249
00:24:18,080 --> 00:24:23,080
I'm so sorry, we just...
I was calling you. It was just here.
250
00:24:23,080 --> 00:24:29,560
Just a great big
sort of pale... rainbow,
sort of coming from nowhere.
251
00:24:29,600 --> 00:24:33,960
Right across the sky,
like a vapour trail.
252
00:24:34,000 --> 00:24:36,800
It was the most extraordinary thing.
253
00:24:36,840 --> 00:24:38,880
It kind of...
254
00:24:38,880 --> 00:24:43,480
It kind of... sort of broke a bit,
sideways like that.
255
00:24:43,480 --> 00:24:46,400
It was just... right across the sky.
256
00:24:47,480 --> 00:24:52,560
I think it's gone now.
I'm so sorry you missed it.
257
00:24:52,560 --> 00:24:55,160
I saw it. We'll see them again.
258
00:24:57,720 --> 00:25:04,080
'We sat up half the night
waiting for the reappearance
of the "Tricky Lady",
259
00:25:04,120 --> 00:25:08,800
'but she doesn't show her face again
all night.
260
00:25:18,640 --> 00:25:25,000
'As I move ever northwards,
and across to the mainland,
I leave coastal Norway far behind.
261
00:25:27,880 --> 00:25:34,320
'The landscape, culture, history
and people where I'm now heading
couldn't be more different.
262
00:25:39,880 --> 00:25:44,560
'This endless expanse of Arctic
tundra is the ancestral homeland
263
00:25:44,560 --> 00:25:48,160
'of the indigenous people,
the Sami.
264
00:25:52,720 --> 00:25:56,920
'Kautokeino is the most Sami town
in Norway. '
265
00:25:56,960 --> 00:26:03,280
Good morning. Morning.
'Its mayor, Klemet Erland Haetta,
kindly agrees to meet me. '
266
00:26:03,320 --> 00:26:09,640
How good to meet you.
I expected a much older mayor.
You are very young for a mayor!
267
00:26:09,640 --> 00:26:13,400
Now you are in Samiland.
It's thrilling. You see.
268
00:26:13,400 --> 00:26:20,160
It's fantastic.
And this beautiful belt and skirt.
What are these? Sealskin?
269
00:26:20,200 --> 00:26:24,960
This is skin from reindeer.
Reindeer skin. And this is also.
270
00:26:25,000 --> 00:26:29,240
So we have white reindeer
and more black reindeer.
271
00:26:29,240 --> 00:26:34,080
And this beautiful pattern -
can I touch it?
272
00:26:34,080 --> 00:26:38,760
Was this made for you?
This is made for me. Very important.
273
00:26:38,800 --> 00:26:43,600
Yes. You can see when you are
unmarried, then it is round.
274
00:26:43,640 --> 00:26:48,400
When you are married,
then you've got... Square? Yeah.
275
00:26:48,400 --> 00:26:51,040
So I'm in with a chance. No...!
276
00:26:51,080 --> 00:26:54,960
Yes, shall we go to the church?
How lovely!
277
00:26:54,960 --> 00:26:58,200
CHURCH BELL RINGS
278
00:26:58,240 --> 00:27:00,880
'We do go to the church.
279
00:27:00,880 --> 00:27:06,920
'I'm lucky,
not just with my choice of guide,
but with my time of arrival.
280
00:27:06,960 --> 00:27:12,880
'The run-up to Easter
is THE Sami season. Bells are
summoning everyone to church.
281
00:27:14,560 --> 00:27:21,880
'Heading there with the mayor means,
within minutes, I've been introduced
to all of Kautokeino's society. '
282
00:27:23,880 --> 00:27:27,160
This is my cousin.
283
00:27:27,160 --> 00:27:29,560
Lovely to meet you. And you.
284
00:27:29,560 --> 00:27:36,080
'This is the time for weddings,
partying and basking
in the year's first sunshine
285
00:27:36,080 --> 00:27:40,720
'with the mercury soaring
to a balmy minus five.
286
00:27:42,000 --> 00:27:48,400
'The festivities kick off
with the town's annual
confirmation ceremony.
287
00:27:49,480 --> 00:27:54,160
'Today, around 80,000 Sami people
live across Arctic Scandinavia.
288
00:27:55,160 --> 00:27:59,440
'Until recently,
they were commonly known as Lapps,
289
00:27:59,480 --> 00:28:03,680
'inhabitants of a region
the world called Lapland.
290
00:28:03,720 --> 00:28:09,400
'Reviled as little better
than savages,
they suffered for centuries,
291
00:28:09,400 --> 00:28:14,640
'but Sami identity and language
are now enjoying a renaissance.
292
00:28:16,880 --> 00:28:23,240
'There were no roads here
until the 1960s, but now
almost everyone has mobiles
293
00:28:23,240 --> 00:28:30,320
'and broadband internet
and they enjoy one of the highest
standards of living in the world.
294
00:28:30,320 --> 00:28:35,480
'Yet close to half Kautokeino's
families still depend on reindeer.
295
00:28:36,800 --> 00:28:41,680
'The mayor introduces me to one of
the top herders, Mikkel Isak Eira,
296
00:28:43,720 --> 00:28:50,560
'who lives a life utterly different
from his grandfathers'. He invites
me to join him for a day. '
297
00:28:50,600 --> 00:28:55,440
Do I need to wear a helmet?
Yes. Here is your scooter. Wow.
298
00:28:55,480 --> 00:29:01,880
Do you drive with a scooter before?
No. When you start, you must...
Only take this key.
299
00:29:01,880 --> 00:29:04,240
ENGINE STARTS
300
00:29:06,080 --> 00:29:08,240
And here it stops. OK.
301
00:29:08,240 --> 00:29:12,880
'Unlike me, Mikkel Isak's son
is no learner driver. '
302
00:29:12,920 --> 00:29:17,480
How old is he?
He is four years and five months.
303
00:29:18,800 --> 00:29:25,080
How long has he been driving?
About one year. So he started...
When he was three?! Yes.
304
00:29:25,120 --> 00:29:29,800
Can you tell in English,
one, two, three?
305
00:29:29,800 --> 00:29:32,200
No! No.
306
00:29:32,240 --> 00:29:36,320
Emil, do you like to drive?
307
00:29:37,320 --> 00:29:39,800
Yes. Yes.
308
00:30:00,720 --> 00:30:03,480
'Hey, I'm not proud.
309
00:30:03,480 --> 00:30:08,160
'If it takes a four-year-old
to teach a grandmother, so be it.
310
00:30:08,160 --> 00:30:15,720
'I bet he can't do country dancing
which I was pretty good at
aged four years and five months!'
311
00:30:20,240 --> 00:30:22,760
Is Emil coming with us today?
312
00:30:22,800 --> 00:30:27,480
No. I will bring him
to the kindergarten. OK. Yes.
313
00:30:27,480 --> 00:30:34,080
Just a quick snowmobile ride,
teach an older person how to ride,
then off to kindergarten!
314
00:30:34,120 --> 00:30:37,880
Yes. Pretty much puts things
in perspective.
315
00:30:51,080 --> 00:30:57,560
'Mikkel Isak may have all
the mod cons, but he still lives
a semi-nomadic life,
316
00:30:57,560 --> 00:31:03,320
'following his reindeer
on their annual migration
to coastal pastures. '
317
00:31:17,160 --> 00:31:20,880
'The migration
is still some weeks away,
318
00:31:20,880 --> 00:31:25,560
'but even in winter, when the
reindeer are nearby, they roam free,
319
00:31:25,560 --> 00:31:29,400
'so we don't know
exactly where we'll find them.
320
00:31:32,320 --> 00:31:38,720
'I've been told
that it's the height of bad manners
to ask a Sami how big his herd is.
321
00:31:38,760 --> 00:31:43,480
'Let's just say Mikkel Isak's would
be hard to miss. ' Look at that.
322
00:31:43,520 --> 00:31:46,080
That's my reindeer herd.
323
00:31:46,080 --> 00:31:48,400
Look at that!
324
00:31:48,400 --> 00:31:51,320
Mikkel Isak, they look fantastic!
325
00:31:52,560 --> 00:31:56,720
Will you do it for me? Yes.
I've got mad old woman's eyes!
326
00:31:56,760 --> 00:31:59,600
Oh, no, I can see now.
327
00:31:59,640 --> 00:32:02,400
Oh, they're so beautiful!
328
00:32:02,400 --> 00:32:05,400
And what a big herd! Isn't it?
329
00:32:05,400 --> 00:32:10,640
Now, some have got antlers
and some haven't. Which is which?
330
00:32:10,640 --> 00:32:17,280
Females get the antlers and the
males don't in winter. The females
get them? The females, yes.
331
00:32:17,320 --> 00:32:24,240
Usually, the male has the antlers
and the female looks a bit humble.
Here, the men look a bit humbler.
332
00:32:24,280 --> 00:32:29,560
Some of them are pawing. Is that...?
Yes, they find the "moos". Moss?
333
00:32:29,560 --> 00:32:34,560
Moss, yes. Look at them
digging like that! Yes.
334
00:32:36,480 --> 00:32:41,120
And this is how the Sami have lived
for thousands of years.
335
00:32:41,160 --> 00:32:48,120
Yes. Travelling with the herds?
Travelling to the winter place
and in summer time, to the coast.
336
00:32:48,160 --> 00:32:55,080
Now we're gonna try to catch one.
Catch one? Yes, with my lasso
and I will show you the ear mark.
337
00:32:55,120 --> 00:33:00,400
You've got your own mark on these?
Yes, I use the lasso to catch them.
338
00:33:00,440 --> 00:33:05,720
This is like rodeo, like a cowboy.
Yes. But you're a reindeer boy. Yes.
339
00:33:07,720 --> 00:33:10,080
ENGINE ROARS
340
00:33:40,880 --> 00:33:43,400
Joanna! Come and help me.
341
00:33:45,640 --> 00:33:47,720
Oh, look!
342
00:33:53,640 --> 00:33:57,080
And here you see... Yes. The ear.
343
00:33:57,120 --> 00:34:00,520
When she was a calf, I do it. Yes.
344
00:34:00,560 --> 00:34:05,960
That's your mark. Yes, it's my mark.
It says "Mikkel Isak". Yes.
345
00:34:06,000 --> 00:34:08,960
It's a female. Six, seven years old.
346
00:34:08,960 --> 00:34:11,480
She's beautiful. A big one too.
347
00:34:11,480 --> 00:34:15,880
She's lovely. You caught her
just so easily. Yes.
348
00:34:15,880 --> 00:34:20,640
I've done it before. You're a bit
of a champion reindeer boy.
349
00:34:20,680 --> 00:34:24,080
Is she OK? She's very OK. Good.
350
00:34:22,400 --> 00:34:24,880
She's not afraid. No.
351
00:34:24,880 --> 00:34:31,240
And the herd is just
quietly grazing there. Yeah.
352
00:34:31,240 --> 00:34:33,320
How fantastic!
353
00:34:33,320 --> 00:34:51,400
Thank you so much. That's OK.
354
00:34:51,400 --> 00:34:57,920
'When he travels with his herd,
Mikkel Isak still stays in his lavu,
the traditional Sami tent.
355
00:34:57,920 --> 00:35:04,320
'He's invited an elder there
to introduce me to the yoik,
a unique form of Sami song. '
356
00:35:04,320 --> 00:35:14,960
SINGS YOIK
357
00:35:14,960 --> 00:35:20,080
'Ante Mikkel Gaup is one of
Kautokeino's most revered yoikers.
358
00:35:20,080 --> 00:35:26,560
'And the yoik is much more
than music to the Sami. '
359
00:35:26,560 --> 00:35:29,720
That was lovely.
REPLIES IN SAMI
360
00:35:29,720 --> 00:35:35,080
'Ante Mikkel explains
that Samis have always yoiked.
361
00:35:35,080 --> 00:35:41,160
'Not just with people,
but directly to animals and nature.
362
00:35:41,160 --> 00:35:47,280
'The most important thing,
he stresses, is that Samis
don't yoik ABOUT something.
363
00:35:47,280 --> 00:35:51,560
'They bring its very essence
into the yoik.
364
00:35:51,560 --> 00:35:58,120
'It turns out there's no set time
for a yoik. It happens
whenever the moment feels right. '
365
00:35:58,120 --> 00:36:14,080
SINGS YOIK
366
00:36:14,080 --> 00:36:16,320
That's wonderful.
367
00:36:16,320 --> 00:36:20,600
He's yoiking about me. Yeah.
Some person.
368
00:36:20,600 --> 00:36:24,880
How I am and what I do.
And it's about me.
369
00:36:24,880 --> 00:36:28,480
Ante Mikkel, will you tell me...
370
00:36:28,480 --> 00:36:33,160
Do you yoik the Northern Lights?
371
00:36:33,160 --> 00:36:35,640
SPEAKS IN SAMI
372
00:36:35,640 --> 00:36:41,480
'Ante Mikkel surprises me
by saying he does not know
a Northern Lights yoik
373
00:36:41,480 --> 00:36:45,640
'and one shouldn't even talk
too much about them.
374
00:36:45,640 --> 00:36:51,400
'Above all, he says,
one should not tease them.
375
00:36:51,400 --> 00:36:58,560
'This has me worried. I've been
talking about the Lights non-stop
ever since I arrived in Norway.
376
00:36:58,560 --> 00:37:04,960
'Have I displeased
the Tricky Lady?
377
00:37:04,960 --> 00:37:08,240
'I head away from Kautokeino.
378
00:37:08,240 --> 00:37:12,800
'North, of course.
379
00:37:12,800 --> 00:37:20,120
'This is the route to the coast that
Mikkel Isak and his herd will soon
embark on. It will take them weeks.
380
00:37:20,120 --> 00:37:22,720
'Me, a mere matter of hours.
381
00:37:22,720 --> 00:37:36,320
'But overcast skies taunt me
yet again.
382
00:37:36,320 --> 00:37:41,200
'In Alta, I'll be certain
of a magical night in the cold,
383
00:37:41,200 --> 00:37:45,000
'but it won't be marvelling
at the Northern Lights.
384
00:37:45,000 --> 00:37:49,240
'It will be indoors. '
385
00:37:49,240 --> 00:37:54,480
Solvi, look at this!
386
00:37:54,480 --> 00:37:57,080
'This is the Alta Igloo Hotel.
387
00:37:57,080 --> 00:37:59,680
'Solvi Monsen is its manager. '
388
00:37:59,680 --> 00:38:02,160
It's so weird.
389
00:38:02,160 --> 00:38:04,960
Can you see my breath?
390
00:38:04,960 --> 00:38:09,000
It's that cold,
but in a strange, dry way.
391
00:38:09,000 --> 00:38:14,560
Yes, the temperature inside is about
minus 4. These huge ice doorways.
392
00:38:14,560 --> 00:38:22,240
Ice animals. There's a penguin.
393
00:38:22,240 --> 00:38:26,320
I think these are huskies,
wagging their husky tails.
394
00:38:26,320 --> 00:38:34,320
Little bright faces, waiting
for instructions. Maybe this is
a bit of the Northern Lights?
395
00:38:34,320 --> 00:38:38,240
And snow bears. Hmm.
Look at this...
396
00:38:38,240 --> 00:38:43,560
There's a little snow church
in here. Look at this snow church!
397
00:38:43,560 --> 00:38:46,800
This is extraordinary.
398
00:38:46,800 --> 00:38:51,040
We do weddings here.
Oh, how fantastic!
399
00:38:51,040 --> 00:38:55,160
The Ice Hotel lasts
till about mid-April.
400
00:38:55,160 --> 00:39:01,360
It melts completely?
Yes, from mid-April,
it starts melting very slowly.
401
00:39:01,360 --> 00:39:07,480
What if you have guests
and it starts to melt...?
Look at this chandelier!
402
00:39:07,480 --> 00:39:12,400
It looks as if it's made of crystal.
I know, but it's made of ice.
403
00:39:12,400 --> 00:39:17,080
'It is, of course,
a charming, fairy-tale experience,
404
00:39:17,080 --> 00:39:23,280
'until you realise
that if it is a hotel, that means
you're meant to sleep in it. '
405
00:39:23,280 --> 00:39:29,480
That is a glimpse that makes
my heart beat a little faster.
Is that the bedrooms? Yeah.
406
00:39:29,480 --> 00:39:35,320
Ooh, ooh! It's freezing!
407
00:39:35,320 --> 00:39:37,880
Just to get my bed ready...
408
00:39:37,880 --> 00:39:43,920
This has got somebody
still inside it. How awful,
a little corpse is in this one.
409
00:39:43,920 --> 00:39:46,800
No, just... just having a laugh!
410
00:39:46,800 --> 00:39:49,560
OK, spirits are very high now.
411
00:39:49,560 --> 00:39:56,080
Although I've sort of washed,
I'll take my trousers and top off
and sleep in my underclothes.
412
00:39:56,080 --> 00:40:01,200
But I've removed the maquillage
cos I like to go to bed fresh.
413
00:40:01,200 --> 00:40:09,960
OK, guys, stick around if you want
to, but this is bedtime for me.
414
00:40:09,960 --> 00:40:14,560
It's just the way I am.
415
00:40:14,560 --> 00:40:19,400
I can't...
I can't go to bed in a hat!
416
00:40:19,400 --> 00:40:24,480
Oh, God! This is the worst thing
I've ever done.
417
00:40:24,480 --> 00:40:27,400
Anyway, come on. Let's just do it.
418
00:40:27,400 --> 00:40:31,240
I can't really go on much more
without being rude.
419
00:40:31,240 --> 00:40:37,360
This is what I've been wearing
all day, so that's not so rude.
That comes off.
420
00:40:37,360 --> 00:40:40,560
This is a nightmare.
421
00:40:40,560 --> 00:40:46,160
Don't sleep in these socks. Even if
my feet aren't particularly sweaty,
422
00:40:46,160 --> 00:40:52,800
they'll freeze to a crisp kind
of cheese crackers,
so on with the cashmere socks.
423
00:40:52,800 --> 00:40:59,640
Then the trousers come off, so you
must leave cos underneath it's quite
tragic. Children may be watching.
424
00:40:59,640 --> 00:41:07,080
Trousers...
Don't watch me do the trousers.
Don't watch me do my trousers!
425
00:41:07,080 --> 00:41:09,600
Everything is black under here.
426
00:41:09,600 --> 00:41:12,480
It's my life really.
427
00:41:12,480 --> 00:41:17,480
I wish I was a divorce lawyer.
I'd set up shop straight outside.
428
00:41:17,480 --> 00:41:21,800
Some of you who are planning
a honeymoon... A honeymoon?!
429
00:41:21,800 --> 00:41:26,800
This is getting silly. Here we are,
the gloves, the scarf, the hat...
430
00:41:26,800 --> 00:41:31,480
The fleece. The cheese...
431
00:41:31,480 --> 00:41:34,160
The... jacket, the jacket.
432
00:41:34,160 --> 00:41:39,160
Is that comfortable? It's
a nightmare. What am I doing here?
433
00:41:39,160 --> 00:41:44,720
My breath hanging in the air could
say it for me, but good night!
434
00:41:44,720 --> 00:42:00,080
And if I'm not with you again,
remember,
I thought the world of you.
435
00:42:00,080 --> 00:42:02,080
Well, now...
436
00:42:02,080 --> 00:42:04,400
I've just woken up.
437
00:42:04,400 --> 00:42:07,480
This was such a good sleep.
438
00:42:07,480 --> 00:42:10,680
I even took off my gloves.
439
00:42:10,680 --> 00:42:14,800
And I even took off my scarf.
440
00:42:14,800 --> 00:42:18,880
And I took off my... socks.
441
00:42:18,880 --> 00:42:21,480
You see, it was warm.
442
00:42:21,480 --> 00:42:23,960
It's been a great success.
443
00:42:23,960 --> 00:42:26,400
I might not do it again.
444
00:42:26,400 --> 00:42:38,800
Not because it was horrid,
but because it was such a palaver.
445
00:42:38,800 --> 00:42:43,040
'I'm now right at the top
of the Norwegian land mass.
446
00:42:43,040 --> 00:42:45,960
'I've had a fantastic time.
447
00:42:45,960 --> 00:42:49,800
'It would be churlish
to dwell on regret,
448
00:42:49,800 --> 00:42:56,680
'but as I reach the sea again,
the road-hugging fjords which
give out on to the Arctic Ocean,
449
00:42:56,680 --> 00:43:04,880
'the facts are that the land
of the Northern Lights
has not quite delivered.
450
00:43:04,880 --> 00:43:11,400
'To get help,
I bite the bullet and turn west.
451
00:43:11,400 --> 00:43:20,240
'The city of Tromso boasts
unrivalled scientific credentials
in studying the aurora.
452
00:43:20,240 --> 00:43:25,480
'Maybe Professor Truls Lynne Hansen
of the Northern Lights Observatory
453
00:43:25,480 --> 00:43:30,600
'can help me improve on that one
brief glimpse early in my trip. '
454
00:43:30,600 --> 00:43:35,680
We went outside and I saw this
green slash across the sky. Yes.
455
00:43:35,680 --> 00:43:39,800
And I thought how frightening
it must have been.
456
00:43:39,800 --> 00:43:46,520
Long ago, were people afraid
of the Northern Lights? Yes, a bit.
You shouldn't wave to it.
457
00:43:46,520 --> 00:43:50,720
Some people still believe that.
And don't whistle to it.
458
00:43:50,720 --> 00:43:57,440
It would come down and take you.
If you waved...? It would take you
away from the ground.
459
00:43:57,440 --> 00:44:02,080
Can you explain to me actually
what it is, what's happening?
460
00:44:02,080 --> 00:44:08,600
It's fast electric particles
coming in from space and hitting
the top of the atmosphere.
461
00:44:08,600 --> 00:44:14,640
The energy of the particles
is converted into light.
And that's what we see.
462
00:44:14,640 --> 00:44:18,720
So they come from the sun?
We can make a drawing.
463
00:44:18,720 --> 00:44:23,480
You must do it, you must show me.
We can make a drawing here.
464
00:44:23,480 --> 00:44:29,520
If you have the Earth here
and the rotating axis that way,
so this is the night side.
465
00:44:29,520 --> 00:44:33,960
Night side, day side.
And the sun over here somewhere.
466
00:44:33,960 --> 00:44:41,640
From the sun, there is a tremendous
wind blowing called the solar wind.
467
00:44:41,640 --> 00:44:47,240
It'll hit the Earth's magnetic field.
It's a collision between the two.
468
00:44:47,240 --> 00:44:51,720
That's where this huge clash,
this battle is taking place?
469
00:44:51,720 --> 00:44:58,320
'As Truls' drawing gets
more complicated, I must admit
I begin to panic slightly.
470
00:44:58,320 --> 00:45:03,160
'Particle physics has never been
my strong point.
471
00:45:03,160 --> 00:45:07,080
'But I now understand
that the Earth is a giant magnet
472
00:45:07,080 --> 00:45:13,520
'and its North and South Poles
attract electric particles towards
them with spectacular results. '
473
00:45:13,520 --> 00:45:20,240
Like the moon and the sun
and even a comet is covering only
a small fraction of the sky.
474
00:45:20,240 --> 00:45:25,120
But the Northern Lights, it's all
the sky from horizon to horizon.
475
00:45:25,120 --> 00:45:28,840
It's all over.
So it's so grand that way.
476
00:45:28,840 --> 00:45:32,480
Truls, this is a book
I had as a child.
477
00:45:32,480 --> 00:45:39,360
It had this drawing of the Southern
Lights, I think, because here is
a penguin. We don't have penguins.
478
00:45:39,360 --> 00:45:44,160
The penguin in Antarctica
will see the same as you see here.
479
00:45:44,160 --> 00:45:49,600
Is that a good drawing? Yes, it is
a typical aurora that you will see.
480
00:45:49,600 --> 00:45:54,960
This is what I wanted to see more
than anything - the curtain effect.
481
00:45:54,960 --> 00:46:02,120
It's a folded curtain hanging down
from space and the electrons
coming down along the lines here.
482
00:46:02,120 --> 00:46:08,440
When it hits this atmosphere,
it will emit light,
so this is a very correct drawing.
483
00:46:08,440 --> 00:46:11,480
Truls, I just hope I get to see it.
484
00:46:11,480 --> 00:46:18,480
I hope that one green flash isn't my
only glimpse of the aurora borealis.
I really hope you get that glimpse.
485
00:46:18,480 --> 00:46:23,720
Find a dark place with no disturbing
light and then look for it.
486
00:46:23,720 --> 00:46:29,920
Just be patient, keep looking?
Yes, keep looking. Don't wave?
In a clear sky, keep looking.
487
00:46:29,920 --> 00:46:34,160
WHISTLES
None of that? No, don't do that.
488
00:46:34,160 --> 00:46:41,640
No, I won't. Then it will
take you away and keep you.
489
00:46:41,640 --> 00:46:45,400
'It's now or never
to take Truls' advice.
490
00:46:45,400 --> 00:46:49,080
'The weather near Tromso
is uncertain,
491
00:46:49,080 --> 00:46:56,400
'but local guide Kjetil Skogli
promises me we'll find the lights,
even if it takes till morning. '
492
00:46:56,400 --> 00:47:03,640
I've just got to tell you what
I've got on - two pairs of socks,
one thick, one thin, long johns.
493
00:47:03,640 --> 00:47:09,080
On top, thermal long johns, a vest,
fleece trousers and salopettes,
494
00:47:09,080 --> 00:47:14,640
then another top which is that top,
then on top of that, another fleece.
495
00:47:14,640 --> 00:47:21,480
We're only halfway there because
I've put on my heavy-going,
"freeze on Everest" mountain jacket.
496
00:47:21,480 --> 00:47:28,280
And on my feet, I've got ice
fishermen's boots which have got
soles this big. Fabulously warm!
497
00:47:28,280 --> 00:47:35,000
And I've got foot warmers
pushed in there, hand warmers,
then two pairs of gloves, two hats.
498
00:47:35,000 --> 00:47:40,920
On top of that, I shall put on
a life-saving suit
without which you die!
499
00:47:40,920 --> 00:47:48,560
So... That's good.
And the other one. Lovely.
500
00:47:48,560 --> 00:47:54,480
This is snug. It's not exactly
what I'd wear to the Oscars,
but you know...
501
00:47:54,480 --> 00:48:01,320
Yes, I know. Horses for courses.
That's lovely. You're well-prepared
now. That's good. Thank you.
502
00:48:01,320 --> 00:48:03,880
I can't see anything, Kjetil.
503
00:48:03,880 --> 00:48:09,880
No, there's nothing yet,
but there's good activity
in the magnetic field tonight.
504
00:48:09,880 --> 00:48:14,320
So we just have to be patient.
So we just wait here. Yeah.
505
00:48:14,320 --> 00:48:19,160
Good luck. Thanks, Kjetil.
506
00:48:19,160 --> 00:48:22,240
'I stand in the pitch black...
507
00:48:22,240 --> 00:48:30,560
'by the side of the fjord...
and wait. '
508
00:48:30,560 --> 00:48:33,000
WIND WHISTLES
509
00:48:33,000 --> 00:48:37,880
Look, much brighter there.
510
00:48:37,880 --> 00:48:49,000
Something's happening there.
511
00:48:49,000 --> 00:48:54,240
Oh!
512
00:48:54,240 --> 00:48:57,720
Look up here!
513
00:48:57,720 --> 00:49:01,240
Look what's happening here!
514
00:49:01,240 --> 00:49:07,880
MUSIC: "Solveig's Song" -
Edvard Grieg
515
00:49:07,880 --> 00:49:11,560
We've got one, two...
516
00:49:11,560 --> 00:49:15,120
We've got three kind of... bands.
517
00:49:15,120 --> 00:49:18,640
Three falling curtains of green.
518
00:49:18,640 --> 00:49:22,600
Just curling round
over the mountain.
519
00:49:22,600 --> 00:49:27,160
Look at that!
520
00:49:27,160 --> 00:49:29,640
Well, this is...
521
00:49:29,640 --> 00:49:43,640
This is different from the green
stripe that I glimpsed down at A.
522
00:49:43,640 --> 00:49:48,160
Standing here underneath this,
I feel a little bit like...
523
00:49:48,160 --> 00:49:54,000
the illustration
of Ponny the Penguin
who just stood humbly at the side,
524
00:49:54,000 --> 00:50:03,960
her little flippers down,
just looking up.
525
00:50:03,960 --> 00:50:08,080
This is the wonder of the world.
This is it.
526
00:50:08,080 --> 00:50:14,720
I might just have to lie down
and stare up at this.
527
00:50:14,720 --> 00:50:18,240
Oh, look at this!
528
00:50:18,240 --> 00:50:25,000
And it just keeps changing
and changing.
529
00:50:25,000 --> 00:50:29,960
I can't believe I'm seeing this.
530
00:50:29,960 --> 00:50:32,400
It's fantastic.
531
00:50:32,400 --> 00:50:34,800
And it's coming again.
532
00:50:34,800 --> 00:50:38,960
I have been waiting... all my life
533
00:50:38,960 --> 00:50:43,320
to see the Northern Lights.
534
00:50:43,320 --> 00:50:56,560
And now I am seeing them on a scale
that is beyond description.
535
00:50:56,560 --> 00:50:59,160
I'm as happy as can be.
536
00:50:59,160 --> 00:51:03,840
Look, it's starting
just behind those little cottages.
537
00:51:03,840 --> 00:51:08,520
Just below the moon and above
the mountains. Look at that!
538
00:51:08,520 --> 00:51:10,960
SHE GASPS
539
00:51:10,960 --> 00:51:16,080
And all the way through it, you can
see stars shining through it.
540
00:51:16,080 --> 00:51:20,320
And this little moon
is shining so brightly,
541
00:51:20,320 --> 00:51:24,360
so it doesn't seem to affect
the moonlight, it's just...
542
00:51:24,360 --> 00:51:31,480
It's extraordinary.
543
00:51:31,480 --> 00:51:34,360
It's so exciting.
544
00:51:34,360 --> 00:51:42,240
It's so immense.
545
00:51:42,240 --> 00:51:48,720
This is the most astonishing thing
I have ever, ever seen.
546
00:51:48,720 --> 00:51:54,640
I have a funny feeling
it sort of knew.
547
00:51:54,640 --> 00:52:00,560
I know this sounds a bit mad...
548
00:52:00,560 --> 00:52:05,640
It does sound a bit mad.
549
00:52:05,640 --> 00:52:13,400
But it feels as though it knew
that we wanted to see it so badly.
550
00:52:13,400 --> 00:52:17,880
And instead of just giving
a little strip of light
551
00:52:17,880 --> 00:52:23,120
or a little bit of green and I would
have been so grateful for that,
552
00:52:23,120 --> 00:52:25,600
we've got the whole business.
553
00:52:25,600 --> 00:52:45,800
MUSIC: "Solveig's Song"
554
00:52:45,800 --> 00:52:56,800
This is terribly, terribly moving.
555
00:52:56,800 --> 00:53:02,400
Thank you.
556
00:53:02,400 --> 00:53:13,240
Thank you!
557
00:53:13,240 --> 00:53:17,240
I think I can die happy now,
actually.
558
00:53:17,240 --> 00:53:20,800
I don't intend to die just yet.
559
00:53:20,800 --> 00:53:30,960
But when I do die, I'll die happy.
560
00:53:30,960 --> 00:53:33,480
'I was still alive in the morning
561
00:53:33,480 --> 00:53:38,240
'and quite utterly,
dazzlingly happy.
562
00:53:38,240 --> 00:53:44,320
'My land journey north
through Arctic Norway has ended
in the best possible way. '
563
00:53:44,320 --> 00:53:48,400
PILOT MAKES ANNOUNCEMENT
564
00:53:48,400 --> 00:53:50,880
'But I'm not going home.
565
00:53:50,880 --> 00:53:57,160
'The strongest point on the compass
still pulls me northwards.
566
00:53:57,160 --> 00:54:02,640
'My final destination,
far north across the Arctic Ocean,
567
00:54:02,640 --> 00:54:07,880
'is the most northerly, permanently
inhabited place on Earth.
568
00:54:07,880 --> 00:54:13,040
'Spitsbergen is the largest island
in the Svalbard Archipelago,
569
00:54:13,040 --> 00:54:17,520
'a vast wilderness of mountains,
glaciers and permafrost.
570
00:54:17,520 --> 00:54:21,360
'It's a natural habitat
for the polar bear.
571
00:54:21,360 --> 00:54:22,640
'Hardly so for people. '
572
00:54:22,640 --> 00:54:34,480
This is the Captain.
Latest temperature in Longyearbyen
is minus 16 degrees Celsius.
573
00:54:34,480 --> 00:54:42,320
PASSENGER ANNOUNCEMENT
574
00:54:42,320 --> 00:54:44,360
Oh!
575
00:54:44,360 --> 00:54:46,320
Wow!
576
00:54:46,320 --> 00:54:51,320
Um... Maybe on second thoughts,
I...
577
00:54:51,320 --> 00:54:55,160
This is like breathing knives,
but...
578
00:54:55,160 --> 00:55:06,720
Here goes.
579
00:55:06,720 --> 00:55:14,200
'Apart from the cold and the
latitude, there seems nothing that
unusual about downtown Longyearbyen,
580
00:55:14,200 --> 00:55:21,320
'home to 1,800
of Svarbard's 2,500 people.
581
00:55:21,320 --> 00:55:28,400
'But I'm not convinced
that the world's most northerly
kebab van does a roaring trade.
582
00:55:28,400 --> 00:55:33,400
'People have been living and working
in Svarbard for more than 400 years.
583
00:55:33,400 --> 00:55:37,640
'Whalers, hunters and trappers
came first,
584
00:55:37,640 --> 00:55:47,480
'seeking valuable oil,
blubber and furs.
585
00:55:47,480 --> 00:55:57,880
'For the last 100 years,
it's mainly coal-mining that
has drawn people this far north.
586
00:55:57,880 --> 00:56:04,360
'But to get the true measure
of one of the world's most isolated
and extreme environments,
587
00:56:04,360 --> 00:56:18,080
'I'll need to leave town tomorrow
and head north for the last time. '
588
00:56:18,080 --> 00:56:25,640
'It's not yet 5am and my journey is
ending at its coldest and wildest.
589
00:56:25,640 --> 00:56:29,960
'From October to February,
there is no light here at all.
590
00:56:29,960 --> 00:56:33,960
'But by April,
the sun will shine round the clock.
591
00:56:33,960 --> 00:56:41,720
'And even here, plants will find
the energy they need to grow again.
592
00:56:41,720 --> 00:56:44,360
'I want to catch the sunrise
593
00:56:44,360 --> 00:56:57,960
'and steal a quiet moment. '
594
00:56:57,960 --> 00:57:00,560
Well, it's minus 26
595
00:57:00,560 --> 00:57:05,240
and it's my last day in the Arctic.
596
00:57:05,240 --> 00:57:09,280
It's such a very,
very extraordinary place to be.
597
00:57:09,280 --> 00:57:13,240
It's just completely...
598
00:57:13,240 --> 00:57:15,880
.. spectacular and hostile.
599
00:57:15,880 --> 00:57:21,560
At least, hostile to man because
it's so hard to exist here, I think.
600
00:57:21,560 --> 00:57:24,080
And it's so fragile.
601
00:57:24,080 --> 00:57:32,080
And it isn't really the place for
men. I know men have lived here.
602
00:57:32,080 --> 00:57:41,720
But we're not built to live here.
603
00:57:41,720 --> 00:57:48,720
'I've reached the sea
one last time.
604
00:57:48,720 --> 00:57:51,320
'Despite being this far north,
605
00:57:51,320 --> 00:57:53,880
'the fjord here has not frozen,
606
00:57:53,880 --> 00:58:00,160
'still benefiting from the warmth
of the Gulf Stream.
607
00:58:00,160 --> 00:58:04,080
'Finally realising
my childhood dream in Malaysia,
608
00:58:04,080 --> 00:58:08,320
'pulled by the strongest point
on the compass,
609
00:58:08,320 --> 00:58:12,480
'was more amazing
than I could ever have imagined.
610
00:58:12,480 --> 00:58:16,000
'But here,
the north at its very essence,
611
00:58:16,000 --> 00:58:20,960
'is where my Arctic odyssey ends. '
612
00:58:20,960 --> 00:58:23,480
That's the north.
613
00:58:23,480 --> 00:58:26,560
That's 620 miles to the North Pole
614
00:58:26,560 --> 00:58:30,560
and after this, there is nothing.
615
00:58:30,560 --> 00:58:36,000
There might be a few scientists and
some explorers, maybe some hunters,
616
00:58:36,000 --> 00:58:41,360
but there are no more towns, no more
villages. Nobody lives up there.
617
00:58:41,360 --> 00:58:43,800
This is as far as I can go.
618
00:58:43,800 --> 00:58:47,840
There is nothing
between me and the North Pole.
619
00:58:47,840 --> 00:58:54,480
That's rather wonderful.
620
00:58:57,480 --> 00:59:01,480
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