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1
00:01:06,234 --> 00:01:09,571
A rugged shoreline, and azure...
2
00:01:13,908 --> 00:01:17,245
...constitute the Côte d'Azur,
the French Riviera.
3
00:01:17,871 --> 00:01:21,499
The English lent their name
to landmarks here:
4
00:01:21,624 --> 00:01:23,626
the Promenade des Anglais...
- Nice.
5
00:01:23,752 --> 00:01:25,670
- ... the Hôtel des Anglais.
- Menton.
6
00:01:25,879 --> 00:01:29,090
... the Eglise anglaise,
or the English Church...
7
00:01:29,299 --> 00:01:32,135
and the British Pharmacy.
8
00:01:35,847 --> 00:01:40,894
COASTING
ALONG THE COAST
9
00:03:43,433 --> 00:03:46,394
We won't be filming the natives.
10
00:03:46,519 --> 00:03:48,187
Cogolin.
11
00:03:48,897 --> 00:03:53,026
In the popular imagination,
they're always old and charming.
12
00:03:53,985 --> 00:03:57,113
Let's leave them
to the ox and the ass.
13
00:03:57,322 --> 00:03:59,574
Our subject is the crowd:
14
00:03:59,866 --> 00:04:04,495
the tourists, the curious,
the emigrants, the enthusiasts.
15
00:04:04,871 --> 00:04:07,832
Those who one day
discover the coast
16
00:04:07,957 --> 00:04:10,668
and gather here
to spend their leisure time.
17
00:04:22,096 --> 00:04:26,643
In 40 years, Nice's population
grew from 100,000 to 240,000.
18
00:04:26,893 --> 00:04:31,397
104,762 imported sleepers
overpopulate it nightly.
19
00:04:31,856 --> 00:04:35,026
Cannes awakens
with 32,003 emigrants,
20
00:04:35,151 --> 00:04:37,820
and Saint-Tropez,
a village of 4,000 souls,
21
00:04:37,946 --> 00:04:40,698
registers 50,000 in August.
22
00:04:41,032 --> 00:04:45,536
What are they all looking for?
And when did they first arrive?
23
00:04:47,372 --> 00:04:51,626
The first to come seeking a cure
may have been Cornelia Salonina,
24
00:04:51,751 --> 00:04:54,128
a Roman empress who,
25
00:04:54,253 --> 00:04:56,381
for her fragile health
and shattered nerves,
26
00:04:56,506 --> 00:04:59,550
spent the winter
at Cimiez's thermal baths.
27
00:04:59,676 --> 00:05:01,177
Nice.
28
00:05:07,350 --> 00:05:11,145
The first tourist was perhaps
Cardinal Maurice of Savoy,
29
00:05:11,270 --> 00:05:13,773
who at 50 shed his robes
30
00:05:13,898 --> 00:05:18,111
to marry his niece,
Princess Marie-Louise, aged 14.
31
00:05:18,778 --> 00:05:22,490
Their bridal chamber
is still visited today.
32
00:05:22,657 --> 00:05:24,826
2 Rue Jules Gilly, Nice.
33
00:05:25,410 --> 00:05:29,622
They spent the winter there,
thus inventing "swallows tourism,"
34
00:05:29,747 --> 00:05:33,334
which promises,
in any season, not just the sun
35
00:05:33,501 --> 00:05:35,336
but the wild palm...
36
00:05:35,878 --> 00:05:37,213
the mimosa...
37
00:05:37,338 --> 00:05:38,756
the lone cypress...
38
00:05:39,132 --> 00:05:40,425
groves of cypresses...
39
00:05:40,550 --> 00:05:41,843
the maritime pine...
40
00:05:42,218 --> 00:05:43,469
the pink laurel...
41
00:05:43,970 --> 00:05:47,807
the prickly pear, which Moroccans
call "the Christian fig"...
42
00:05:48,099 --> 00:05:50,143
and the century plant,
43
00:05:50,268 --> 00:05:53,646
which lives 100 years,
flowers once, and dies.
44
00:05:54,856 --> 00:05:58,151
In the 1800s,
a trip from Calais to Nice
45
00:05:58,276 --> 00:06:02,071
meant 16 days in a stagecoach,
stopping at 107 stations.
46
00:06:02,864 --> 00:06:05,533
Cannes, the 107th stop,
47
00:06:05,658 --> 00:06:08,077
surged in popularity
due to the plague,
48
00:06:08,202 --> 00:06:11,539
which closed the gates of Nice
to Lord Brougham.
49
00:06:11,998 --> 00:06:14,834
Charmed by Cannes
during his quarantine there,
50
00:06:14,959 --> 00:06:17,795
he stayed over 40 years.
51
00:06:17,920 --> 00:06:21,382
Many English followed,
including Queen Victoria.
52
00:06:22,008 --> 00:06:24,927
English dukes,
Russian grand dukes,
53
00:06:25,553 --> 00:06:28,806
many titles,
and even a few names.
54
00:06:29,057 --> 00:06:30,808
Dante Alighieri...
55
00:06:31,267 --> 00:06:33,728
Italian consul in Nice.
56
00:06:34,687 --> 00:06:36,481
Émile Zola...
57
00:06:36,731 --> 00:06:40,151
honeymooned
at the Hôtel de Paris in Monaco.
58
00:06:40,902 --> 00:06:42,737
Friedrich Nietzsche...
59
00:06:42,862 --> 00:06:46,324
conceived Act 3 of Zarathustra
around the village of Eze.
60
00:06:47,408 --> 00:06:49,243
Lucien Guitry...
61
00:06:49,660 --> 00:06:51,746
barnyard animals...
62
00:06:52,038 --> 00:06:54,749
and the garden
in St.-Pons-les-Mûres.
63
00:06:55,958 --> 00:06:58,586
One partly sunny morning
in Monaco,
64
00:06:58,836 --> 00:07:02,423
a student resembling
Guillaume Apollinaire.
65
00:07:02,715 --> 00:07:04,342
And Colette...
66
00:07:04,509 --> 00:07:06,969
who resembled
a Saint-Tropez cat...
67
00:07:07,303 --> 00:07:09,597
wrote Break of Day.
68
00:07:11,182 --> 00:07:13,059
Giraudoux, in Porquerolles...
69
00:07:13,559 --> 00:07:16,437
invented Suzanne and the Pacific.
70
00:07:18,940 --> 00:07:21,567
Painters too ennobled the Riviera.
71
00:07:22,193 --> 00:07:24,862
In Joseph Vernet's paintings...
- Antibes.
72
00:07:25,113 --> 00:07:27,949
...one can see the tower
of the Château Grimaldi.
73
00:07:28,116 --> 00:07:32,411
In the Château Grimaldi,
one can see Picasso's paintings.
74
00:07:32,787 --> 00:07:36,124
A painter and ceramic artist,
Picasso worked year-round.
75
00:07:36,624 --> 00:07:40,795
On the coast he has just one
serious competitor in painting and firing:
76
00:07:41,003 --> 00:07:42,380
the sun.
77
00:07:44,924 --> 00:07:47,677
The sun's chariot
rises up from the sea.
78
00:07:47,802 --> 00:07:50,596
It carries humanity along
on its fiery course,
79
00:07:50,721 --> 00:07:54,851
leaving it exhausted at night,
to be reborn the next morning
80
00:07:54,976 --> 00:07:57,311
and begin again
its cyclical travails,
81
00:07:57,436 --> 00:07:59,814
which require surmounting
modesty and boredom,
82
00:08:00,189 --> 00:08:03,734
at the risk of losing one's head
or one's skin —
83
00:08:03,860 --> 00:08:07,321
the latter judged
by the much coveted suntan.
84
00:08:39,729 --> 00:08:42,815
At this point,
it's best to cover up.
85
00:08:44,734 --> 00:08:46,944
Need gives rise to beauty...
86
00:08:47,278 --> 00:08:49,864
and coverings become fashion.
87
00:09:17,725 --> 00:09:20,728
In search of the sun,
they found oblivion.
88
00:09:21,020 --> 00:09:22,230
Where are they?
89
00:09:22,563 --> 00:09:24,065
Far away.
90
00:09:24,482 --> 00:09:26,234
Far from the coast.
91
00:09:26,609 --> 00:09:28,319
Far from everywhere.
92
00:09:28,444 --> 00:09:30,905
It's called exoticism.
93
00:09:31,239 --> 00:09:33,241
A pagoda-shaped shop?
94
00:09:33,824 --> 00:09:35,993
It's Sunday in Beijing.
- Fréjus.
95
00:09:38,162 --> 00:09:40,873
A Sudanese mosque?
96
00:09:40,998 --> 00:09:42,667
Africa beckons.
- Fréjus.
97
00:09:43,501 --> 00:09:45,753
A dome?
It's the Orient Palace.
98
00:09:45,878 --> 00:09:47,046
Menton.
99
00:09:47,171 --> 00:09:50,007
A Persian house?
The Arabian Nights.
100
00:09:50,132 --> 00:09:51,759
Monte Carlo.
101
00:09:51,926 --> 00:09:55,471
A Russian church with carriage:
102
00:09:56,597 --> 00:09:58,599
Moscow, 1900.
- Nice.
103
00:09:59,684 --> 00:10:01,269
A bather...
104
00:10:01,769 --> 00:10:03,604
a metro station:
105
00:10:04,063 --> 00:10:06,732
Paris, 1900.
- Cannes.
106
00:10:08,442 --> 00:10:12,363
Finally, the most exotic of all:
107
00:10:12,947 --> 00:10:14,824
the exotic gardens.
108
00:10:25,626 --> 00:10:28,004
A favorite site for nature lovers
109
00:10:28,129 --> 00:10:31,382
longing for the silence
of the plant kingdom.
110
00:10:46,314 --> 00:10:49,984
They never bother
remembering the plants' names.
111
00:10:50,818 --> 00:10:53,321
They'd rather
the plants remember theirs.
112
00:10:56,157 --> 00:10:58,200
They write their own name,
113
00:10:58,367 --> 00:11:00,828
or the name of a beloved,
hoping she'll appear.
114
00:11:08,836 --> 00:11:12,173
If they can't see, touch,
or speak to Bardot,
115
00:11:12,340 --> 00:11:14,884
they can come drink
in Saint-Tropez.
116
00:11:16,093 --> 00:11:20,514
Their appetites change
via a process of natural adaptation.
117
00:11:21,390 --> 00:11:23,601
In Cannes they come to eat
118
00:11:23,726 --> 00:11:27,188
when they've failed to see
Sophia Loren at the Festival.
119
00:11:30,816 --> 00:11:34,612
And if they can't afford a Matisse,
they visit his grave.
120
00:11:34,737 --> 00:11:37,323
Dead or alive,
celebrities have their admirers.
121
00:11:37,448 --> 00:11:41,619
Cro-Magnon Man, ancient celebrity
and oldest of the dead,
122
00:11:41,744 --> 00:11:44,622
receives visitors
before the Trophy of Augustus...
123
00:11:44,747 --> 00:11:46,248
La Turbie.
124
00:11:46,457 --> 00:11:48,209
- ... the Roman aqueduct...
- Fréjus.
125
00:11:48,376 --> 00:11:50,419
...and the 13 moth-eaten
marble blocks,
126
00:11:50,628 --> 00:11:52,963
destined for the Temple
of Augustus in Narbonne —
127
00:11:53,089 --> 00:11:56,008
alas, sunk in a tempest,
not raised in a temple.
128
00:11:56,133 --> 00:11:57,802
Saint-Tropez.
129
00:11:59,553 --> 00:12:03,391
But let us render unto museums
that which was Caesar's...
130
00:12:03,516 --> 00:12:06,352
and appreciate instead
other inhabited relics,
131
00:12:06,477 --> 00:12:10,564
the most precious of the Riviera:
its age-old trees.
132
00:12:14,151 --> 00:12:17,071
A gigantic elm from Sulla's day.
133
00:12:17,196 --> 00:12:19,156
In Ramatuelle.
134
00:12:19,281 --> 00:12:23,202
- A 1,000-year-old olive tree.
- In Beaulieu.
135
00:12:24,495 --> 00:12:27,623
A bald cypress
from Canada and Louisiana,
136
00:12:27,748 --> 00:12:31,127
from a cutting made
by Monsieur Robert in 1797.
137
00:12:31,252 --> 00:12:32,920
In Toulon.
138
00:12:34,797 --> 00:12:37,550
- A century-old oak.
- In Saint-Cassien.
139
00:12:39,552 --> 00:12:42,680
And the salutary shade
of hackberry trees.
140
00:12:42,805 --> 00:12:44,432
In Cogolin.
141
00:12:47,268 --> 00:12:49,770
In contrast to this somberness,
142
00:12:49,895 --> 00:12:53,107
there's the bright color
of the local markets.
143
00:12:57,278 --> 00:13:01,449
But tourists passing through
prefer the colors in fashion:
144
00:13:01,699 --> 00:13:03,451
yellow and blue.
145
00:13:16,797 --> 00:13:20,551
Hotels too wear
the fashionable colors of the day.
146
00:13:24,305 --> 00:13:26,599
Yellow or blue? Blue wins out.
147
00:13:26,807 --> 00:13:31,020
All women wish to be fashionable.
All women wear blue.
148
00:13:33,105 --> 00:13:35,149
Except the English...
149
00:13:36,984 --> 00:13:38,819
those learning to swim...
150
00:13:40,279 --> 00:13:43,240
and the Germans,
great fans of green.
151
00:14:01,509 --> 00:14:04,678
Camping is the airiest form
of freedom,
152
00:14:04,845 --> 00:14:07,806
and the most wildly ceremonial.
153
00:14:07,932 --> 00:14:12,144
Life is good, lived
with the majesty of ancient chiefs
154
00:14:12,269 --> 00:14:14,522
retiring to their tents.
155
00:14:17,525 --> 00:14:21,862
Campgrounds crowded with bon vivants
lured by the seashore
156
00:14:22,363 --> 00:14:25,199
mirror the campgrounds
of the happily deceased
157
00:14:25,324 --> 00:14:27,326
on the same peaceful shores.
158
00:14:28,285 --> 00:14:32,581
In both cases,
residents vie for prime real estate.
159
00:14:34,041 --> 00:14:36,877
The coast is indeed "the most."
160
00:14:38,254 --> 00:14:41,840
The Riviera is the most
beautiful cemetery in France,
161
00:14:41,966 --> 00:14:46,554
offering unobstructed views
and a sea that's ever new.
162
00:14:47,012 --> 00:14:50,432
The Riviera's dead
are high-class tourists,
163
00:14:50,558 --> 00:14:52,893
their rest well-deserved.
164
00:14:53,561 --> 00:14:56,730
The landscape is as discrete
as a heavy heart without tears...
165
00:14:56,855 --> 00:14:58,899
modest as an arch
without roses...
166
00:14:59,900 --> 00:15:02,611
calm as a field without honor...
167
00:15:03,487 --> 00:15:05,906
childlike as a cradle...
168
00:15:06,532 --> 00:15:09,243
silent as a neighboring forest...
169
00:15:10,119 --> 00:15:14,331
and as surprising as finding,
just over a wall...
170
00:15:15,040 --> 00:15:17,167
a giant Virgin.
171
00:15:17,418 --> 00:15:19,086
Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat.
172
00:15:22,131 --> 00:15:25,759
The Holy Mother missed her cue
to enter the church,
173
00:15:25,926 --> 00:15:28,721
and the cock fell
from the bell tower
174
00:15:28,846 --> 00:15:32,099
as if knocked over
in this game of boules.
175
00:15:39,231 --> 00:15:41,817
Luck turns at the roulette wheel.
176
00:15:41,984 --> 00:15:43,944
Wheels turn too.
177
00:15:44,111 --> 00:15:46,739
Death surprised Isadora Duncan.
- In Nice.
178
00:15:47,615 --> 00:15:50,409
Jean-Gabriel Domergue
stands ready before his tomb,
179
00:15:51,035 --> 00:15:55,080
built the way others build
less eternal homes,
180
00:15:55,205 --> 00:15:57,333
full of the charm of life.
181
00:15:57,458 --> 00:15:58,834
THE CHARMER
182
00:15:58,959 --> 00:16:00,377
TENDERNESS
183
00:16:00,502 --> 00:16:01,629
FRENZY
184
00:16:01,754 --> 00:16:03,422
FINALLY
185
00:16:11,430 --> 00:16:16,060
The villa is a delirium
of decorative dreaming.
186
00:16:55,182 --> 00:16:58,977
Abandoned gardens,
forgotten villas —
187
00:16:59,478 --> 00:17:01,355
this is cinema.
188
00:17:05,693 --> 00:17:07,695
Blasco Ibáñez's friends...
189
00:17:08,153 --> 00:17:11,699
enjoyed this retirement home
for writers.
190
00:17:12,074 --> 00:17:14,451
Others prefer hotel life.
191
00:17:14,827 --> 00:17:19,373
What makes them prefer
one particular hotel...
192
00:17:20,207 --> 00:17:22,626
is the doorman's greeting.
193
00:17:23,585 --> 00:17:27,214
How familiar he is with you
is the barometer
194
00:17:27,339 --> 00:17:30,217
that tells whether
you're a somebody or a nobody.
195
00:18:18,182 --> 00:18:20,434
Doorman for 20 years
at the Grand Hôtel...
196
00:18:22,394 --> 00:18:24,772
he's still playing the game,
197
00:18:24,897 --> 00:18:27,107
welcoming small-timers
198
00:18:27,232 --> 00:18:30,778
with a nagging nostalgia
for the big spenders.
199
00:18:41,288 --> 00:18:43,624
Where is the formerly
Grand Hôtel?
200
00:18:46,835 --> 00:18:49,213
Where is Eden Roc?
201
00:18:49,379 --> 00:18:50,964
Where is Eden?
202
00:18:52,424 --> 00:18:54,551
The entire coast sighs for it.
203
00:18:55,260 --> 00:18:57,554
The entire coast loves its name.
204
00:19:11,026 --> 00:19:14,279
PEDAL BOATS
ON THE OTHER SIDE OF EDEN
205
00:19:16,240 --> 00:19:18,909
There's never enough
to go around.
206
00:19:19,993 --> 00:19:22,329
Forbidden Eden creates a stir.
207
00:19:24,164 --> 00:19:26,291
Nostalgia gives way to a carnival.
208
00:22:03,532 --> 00:22:05,325
The carnival burns.
209
00:22:05,534 --> 00:22:07,244
The earth trembles.
210
00:22:07,577 --> 00:22:10,872
The sun goes mad.
The waters are calmed.
211
00:22:10,998 --> 00:22:13,834
Carnival is dead. Silence reigns.
212
00:22:15,419 --> 00:22:17,838
Silence in reply
to so many questions,
213
00:22:18,005 --> 00:22:20,298
to volcanoes and whirlwinds.
214
00:22:20,674 --> 00:22:22,175
Eden exists.
215
00:22:22,718 --> 00:22:24,302
It's a dawn.
216
00:22:24,678 --> 00:22:26,513
Eden exists.
217
00:22:28,015 --> 00:22:29,891
It's an island.
218
00:25:17,809 --> 00:25:22,439
Paradise was a beach
and a pinecone.
219
00:25:23,440 --> 00:25:27,194
But nostalgia for Eden
is a garden.
220
00:25:32,365 --> 00:25:34,701
It's no longer the Côte d'Azur...
221
00:25:35,118 --> 00:25:37,370
but a transplanted garden...
222
00:25:37,746 --> 00:25:42,542
the notion of a garden,
with flowers, lawns, and colonnades.
223
00:25:45,921 --> 00:25:48,298
Forgetting the nearby sea...
224
00:25:48,715 --> 00:25:51,218
the pond is a lament...
225
00:25:51,384 --> 00:25:55,555
the water lily a lingering sigh.
226
00:26:03,730 --> 00:26:06,066
These are false Eves...
227
00:26:06,316 --> 00:26:07,901
ersatz Adams...
228
00:26:08,151 --> 00:26:09,903
imitation Cupids...
229
00:26:10,195 --> 00:26:12,239
deceptive Venuses...
230
00:26:12,906 --> 00:26:16,409
fake caves and pretend nymphs.
231
00:26:18,495 --> 00:26:21,122
Though these reveries
are shared by all,
232
00:26:21,248 --> 00:26:23,833
the gardens are not for the public.
233
00:26:24,501 --> 00:26:26,586
This fake Eden is not for us...
234
00:26:27,045 --> 00:26:29,256
no more than the real Eden.
235
00:26:30,257 --> 00:26:32,259
And worst of all...
236
00:26:32,968 --> 00:26:35,929
summer comes to an end.
237
00:26:36,304 --> 00:26:40,141
Until next year
238
00:26:41,977 --> 00:26:45,939
Until next summer, so far away
239
00:26:47,107 --> 00:26:53,154
They've locked the sea away
behind a gray horizon
240
00:26:53,280 --> 00:26:55,949
And thrown away the key
241
00:26:57,242 --> 00:27:01,955
Morning glories bloom but for a day
242
00:27:03,290 --> 00:27:08,086
Summer blooms but for a summer
243
00:27:08,378 --> 00:27:13,717
Yesterday was summer,
time for sun and play
244
00:27:13,967 --> 00:27:17,262
Now the dazzling summer
has faded
245
00:27:18,471 --> 00:27:23,977
Now the reveling sun is jaded
246
00:27:24,352 --> 00:27:26,396
How silly and sad
247
00:27:26,521 --> 00:27:28,815
The party is over
248
00:27:28,982 --> 00:27:33,570
Summer is gone
19066
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