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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:01:06,234 --> 00:01:09,571 A rugged shoreline, and azure... 2 00:01:13,908 --> 00:01:17,245 ...constitute the Côte d'Azur, the French Riviera. 3 00:01:17,871 --> 00:01:21,499 The English lent their name to landmarks here: 4 00:01:21,624 --> 00:01:23,626 the Promenade des Anglais... - Nice. 5 00:01:23,752 --> 00:01:25,670 - ... the Hôtel des Anglais. - Menton. 6 00:01:25,879 --> 00:01:29,090 ... the Eglise anglaise, or the English Church... 7 00:01:29,299 --> 00:01:32,135 and the British Pharmacy. 8 00:01:35,847 --> 00:01:40,894 COASTING ALONG THE COAST 9 00:03:43,433 --> 00:03:46,394 We won't be filming the natives. 10 00:03:46,519 --> 00:03:48,187 Cogolin. 11 00:03:48,897 --> 00:03:53,026 In the popular imagination, they're always old and charming. 12 00:03:53,985 --> 00:03:57,113 Let's leave them to the ox and the ass. 13 00:03:57,322 --> 00:03:59,574 Our subject is the crowd: 14 00:03:59,866 --> 00:04:04,495 the tourists, the curious, the emigrants, the enthusiasts. 15 00:04:04,871 --> 00:04:07,832 Those who one day discover the coast 16 00:04:07,957 --> 00:04:10,668 and gather here to spend their leisure time. 17 00:04:22,096 --> 00:04:26,643 In 40 years, Nice's population grew from 100,000 to 240,000. 18 00:04:26,893 --> 00:04:31,397 104,762 imported sleepers overpopulate it nightly. 19 00:04:31,856 --> 00:04:35,026 Cannes awakens with 32,003 emigrants, 20 00:04:35,151 --> 00:04:37,820 and Saint-Tropez, a village of 4,000 souls, 21 00:04:37,946 --> 00:04:40,698 registers 50,000 in August. 22 00:04:41,032 --> 00:04:45,536 What are they all looking for? And when did they first arrive? 23 00:04:47,372 --> 00:04:51,626 The first to come seeking a cure may have been Cornelia Salonina, 24 00:04:51,751 --> 00:04:54,128 a Roman empress who, 25 00:04:54,253 --> 00:04:56,381 for her fragile health and shattered nerves, 26 00:04:56,506 --> 00:04:59,550 spent the winter at Cimiez's thermal baths. 27 00:04:59,676 --> 00:05:01,177 Nice. 28 00:05:07,350 --> 00:05:11,145 The first tourist was perhaps Cardinal Maurice of Savoy, 29 00:05:11,270 --> 00:05:13,773 who at 50 shed his robes 30 00:05:13,898 --> 00:05:18,111 to marry his niece, Princess Marie-Louise, aged 14. 31 00:05:18,778 --> 00:05:22,490 Their bridal chamber is still visited today. 32 00:05:22,657 --> 00:05:24,826 2 Rue Jules Gilly, Nice. 33 00:05:25,410 --> 00:05:29,622 They spent the winter there, thus inventing "swallows tourism," 34 00:05:29,747 --> 00:05:33,334 which promises, in any season, not just the sun 35 00:05:33,501 --> 00:05:35,336 but the wild palm... 36 00:05:35,878 --> 00:05:37,213 the mimosa... 37 00:05:37,338 --> 00:05:38,756 the lone cypress... 38 00:05:39,132 --> 00:05:40,425 groves of cypresses... 39 00:05:40,550 --> 00:05:41,843 the maritime pine... 40 00:05:42,218 --> 00:05:43,469 the pink laurel... 41 00:05:43,970 --> 00:05:47,807 the prickly pear, which Moroccans call "the Christian fig"... 42 00:05:48,099 --> 00:05:50,143 and the century plant, 43 00:05:50,268 --> 00:05:53,646 which lives 100 years, flowers once, and dies. 44 00:05:54,856 --> 00:05:58,151 In the 1800s, a trip from Calais to Nice 45 00:05:58,276 --> 00:06:02,071 meant 16 days in a stagecoach, stopping at 107 stations. 46 00:06:02,864 --> 00:06:05,533 Cannes, the 107th stop, 47 00:06:05,658 --> 00:06:08,077 surged in popularity due to the plague, 48 00:06:08,202 --> 00:06:11,539 which closed the gates of Nice to Lord Brougham. 49 00:06:11,998 --> 00:06:14,834 Charmed by Cannes during his quarantine there, 50 00:06:14,959 --> 00:06:17,795 he stayed over 40 years. 51 00:06:17,920 --> 00:06:21,382 Many English followed, including Queen Victoria. 52 00:06:22,008 --> 00:06:24,927 English dukes, Russian grand dukes, 53 00:06:25,553 --> 00:06:28,806 many titles, and even a few names. 54 00:06:29,057 --> 00:06:30,808 Dante Alighieri... 55 00:06:31,267 --> 00:06:33,728 Italian consul in Nice. 56 00:06:34,687 --> 00:06:36,481 Émile Zola... 57 00:06:36,731 --> 00:06:40,151 honeymooned at the Hôtel de Paris in Monaco. 58 00:06:40,902 --> 00:06:42,737 Friedrich Nietzsche... 59 00:06:42,862 --> 00:06:46,324 conceived Act 3 of Zarathustra around the village of Eze. 60 00:06:47,408 --> 00:06:49,243 Lucien Guitry... 61 00:06:49,660 --> 00:06:51,746 barnyard animals... 62 00:06:52,038 --> 00:06:54,749 and the garden in St.-Pons-les-Mûres. 63 00:06:55,958 --> 00:06:58,586 One partly sunny morning in Monaco, 64 00:06:58,836 --> 00:07:02,423 a student resembling Guillaume Apollinaire. 65 00:07:02,715 --> 00:07:04,342 And Colette... 66 00:07:04,509 --> 00:07:06,969 who resembled a Saint-Tropez cat... 67 00:07:07,303 --> 00:07:09,597 wrote Break of Day. 68 00:07:11,182 --> 00:07:13,059 Giraudoux, in Porquerolles... 69 00:07:13,559 --> 00:07:16,437 invented Suzanne and the Pacific. 70 00:07:18,940 --> 00:07:21,567 Painters too ennobled the Riviera. 71 00:07:22,193 --> 00:07:24,862 In Joseph Vernet's paintings... - Antibes. 72 00:07:25,113 --> 00:07:27,949 ...one can see the tower of the Château Grimaldi. 73 00:07:28,116 --> 00:07:32,411 In the Château Grimaldi, one can see Picasso's paintings. 74 00:07:32,787 --> 00:07:36,124 A painter and ceramic artist, Picasso worked year-round. 75 00:07:36,624 --> 00:07:40,795 On the coast he has just one serious competitor in painting and firing: 76 00:07:41,003 --> 00:07:42,380 the sun. 77 00:07:44,924 --> 00:07:47,677 The sun's chariot rises up from the sea. 78 00:07:47,802 --> 00:07:50,596 It carries humanity along on its fiery course, 79 00:07:50,721 --> 00:07:54,851 leaving it exhausted at night, to be reborn the next morning 80 00:07:54,976 --> 00:07:57,311 and begin again its cyclical travails, 81 00:07:57,436 --> 00:07:59,814 which require surmounting modesty and boredom, 82 00:08:00,189 --> 00:08:03,734 at the risk of losing one's head or one's skin — 83 00:08:03,860 --> 00:08:07,321 the latter judged by the much coveted suntan. 84 00:08:39,729 --> 00:08:42,815 At this point, it's best to cover up. 85 00:08:44,734 --> 00:08:46,944 Need gives rise to beauty... 86 00:08:47,278 --> 00:08:49,864 and coverings become fashion. 87 00:09:17,725 --> 00:09:20,728 In search of the sun, they found oblivion. 88 00:09:21,020 --> 00:09:22,230 Where are they? 89 00:09:22,563 --> 00:09:24,065 Far away. 90 00:09:24,482 --> 00:09:26,234 Far from the coast. 91 00:09:26,609 --> 00:09:28,319 Far from everywhere. 92 00:09:28,444 --> 00:09:30,905 It's called exoticism. 93 00:09:31,239 --> 00:09:33,241 A pagoda-shaped shop? 94 00:09:33,824 --> 00:09:35,993 It's Sunday in Beijing. - Fréjus. 95 00:09:38,162 --> 00:09:40,873 A Sudanese mosque? 96 00:09:40,998 --> 00:09:42,667 Africa beckons. - Fréjus. 97 00:09:43,501 --> 00:09:45,753 A dome? It's the Orient Palace. 98 00:09:45,878 --> 00:09:47,046 Menton. 99 00:09:47,171 --> 00:09:50,007 A Persian house? The Arabian Nights. 100 00:09:50,132 --> 00:09:51,759 Monte Carlo. 101 00:09:51,926 --> 00:09:55,471 A Russian church with carriage: 102 00:09:56,597 --> 00:09:58,599 Moscow, 1900. - Nice. 103 00:09:59,684 --> 00:10:01,269 A bather... 104 00:10:01,769 --> 00:10:03,604 a metro station: 105 00:10:04,063 --> 00:10:06,732 Paris, 1900. - Cannes. 106 00:10:08,442 --> 00:10:12,363 Finally, the most exotic of all: 107 00:10:12,947 --> 00:10:14,824 the exotic gardens. 108 00:10:25,626 --> 00:10:28,004 A favorite site for nature lovers 109 00:10:28,129 --> 00:10:31,382 longing for the silence of the plant kingdom. 110 00:10:46,314 --> 00:10:49,984 They never bother remembering the plants' names. 111 00:10:50,818 --> 00:10:53,321 They'd rather the plants remember theirs. 112 00:10:56,157 --> 00:10:58,200 They write their own name, 113 00:10:58,367 --> 00:11:00,828 or the name of a beloved, hoping she'll appear. 114 00:11:08,836 --> 00:11:12,173 If they can't see, touch, or speak to Bardot, 115 00:11:12,340 --> 00:11:14,884 they can come drink in Saint-Tropez. 116 00:11:16,093 --> 00:11:20,514 Their appetites change via a process of natural adaptation. 117 00:11:21,390 --> 00:11:23,601 In Cannes they come to eat 118 00:11:23,726 --> 00:11:27,188 when they've failed to see Sophia Loren at the Festival. 119 00:11:30,816 --> 00:11:34,612 And if they can't afford a Matisse, they visit his grave. 120 00:11:34,737 --> 00:11:37,323 Dead or alive, celebrities have their admirers. 121 00:11:37,448 --> 00:11:41,619 Cro-Magnon Man, ancient celebrity and oldest of the dead, 122 00:11:41,744 --> 00:11:44,622 receives visitors before the Trophy of Augustus... 123 00:11:44,747 --> 00:11:46,248 La Turbie. 124 00:11:46,457 --> 00:11:48,209 - ... the Roman aqueduct... - Fréjus. 125 00:11:48,376 --> 00:11:50,419 ...and the 13 moth-eaten marble blocks, 126 00:11:50,628 --> 00:11:52,963 destined for the Temple of Augustus in Narbonne — 127 00:11:53,089 --> 00:11:56,008 alas, sunk in a tempest, not raised in a temple. 128 00:11:56,133 --> 00:11:57,802 Saint-Tropez. 129 00:11:59,553 --> 00:12:03,391 But let us render unto museums that which was Caesar's... 130 00:12:03,516 --> 00:12:06,352 and appreciate instead other inhabited relics, 131 00:12:06,477 --> 00:12:10,564 the most precious of the Riviera: its age-old trees. 132 00:12:14,151 --> 00:12:17,071 A gigantic elm from Sulla's day. 133 00:12:17,196 --> 00:12:19,156 In Ramatuelle. 134 00:12:19,281 --> 00:12:23,202 - A 1,000-year-old olive tree. - In Beaulieu. 135 00:12:24,495 --> 00:12:27,623 A bald cypress from Canada and Louisiana, 136 00:12:27,748 --> 00:12:31,127 from a cutting made by Monsieur Robert in 1797. 137 00:12:31,252 --> 00:12:32,920 In Toulon. 138 00:12:34,797 --> 00:12:37,550 - A century-old oak. - In Saint-Cassien. 139 00:12:39,552 --> 00:12:42,680 And the salutary shade of hackberry trees. 140 00:12:42,805 --> 00:12:44,432 In Cogolin. 141 00:12:47,268 --> 00:12:49,770 In contrast to this somberness, 142 00:12:49,895 --> 00:12:53,107 there's the bright color of the local markets. 143 00:12:57,278 --> 00:13:01,449 But tourists passing through prefer the colors in fashion: 144 00:13:01,699 --> 00:13:03,451 yellow and blue. 145 00:13:16,797 --> 00:13:20,551 Hotels too wear the fashionable colors of the day. 146 00:13:24,305 --> 00:13:26,599 Yellow or blue? Blue wins out. 147 00:13:26,807 --> 00:13:31,020 All women wish to be fashionable. All women wear blue. 148 00:13:33,105 --> 00:13:35,149 Except the English... 149 00:13:36,984 --> 00:13:38,819 those learning to swim... 150 00:13:40,279 --> 00:13:43,240 and the Germans, great fans of green. 151 00:14:01,509 --> 00:14:04,678 Camping is the airiest form of freedom, 152 00:14:04,845 --> 00:14:07,806 and the most wildly ceremonial. 153 00:14:07,932 --> 00:14:12,144 Life is good, lived with the majesty of ancient chiefs 154 00:14:12,269 --> 00:14:14,522 retiring to their tents. 155 00:14:17,525 --> 00:14:21,862 Campgrounds crowded with bon vivants lured by the seashore 156 00:14:22,363 --> 00:14:25,199 mirror the campgrounds of the happily deceased 157 00:14:25,324 --> 00:14:27,326 on the same peaceful shores. 158 00:14:28,285 --> 00:14:32,581 In both cases, residents vie for prime real estate. 159 00:14:34,041 --> 00:14:36,877 The coast is indeed "the most." 160 00:14:38,254 --> 00:14:41,840 The Riviera is the most beautiful cemetery in France, 161 00:14:41,966 --> 00:14:46,554 offering unobstructed views and a sea that's ever new. 162 00:14:47,012 --> 00:14:50,432 The Riviera's dead are high-class tourists, 163 00:14:50,558 --> 00:14:52,893 their rest well-deserved. 164 00:14:53,561 --> 00:14:56,730 The landscape is as discrete as a heavy heart without tears... 165 00:14:56,855 --> 00:14:58,899 modest as an arch without roses... 166 00:14:59,900 --> 00:15:02,611 calm as a field without honor... 167 00:15:03,487 --> 00:15:05,906 childlike as a cradle... 168 00:15:06,532 --> 00:15:09,243 silent as a neighboring forest... 169 00:15:10,119 --> 00:15:14,331 and as surprising as finding, just over a wall... 170 00:15:15,040 --> 00:15:17,167 a giant Virgin. 171 00:15:17,418 --> 00:15:19,086 Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat. 172 00:15:22,131 --> 00:15:25,759 The Holy Mother missed her cue to enter the church, 173 00:15:25,926 --> 00:15:28,721 and the cock fell from the bell tower 174 00:15:28,846 --> 00:15:32,099 as if knocked over in this game of boules. 175 00:15:39,231 --> 00:15:41,817 Luck turns at the roulette wheel. 176 00:15:41,984 --> 00:15:43,944 Wheels turn too. 177 00:15:44,111 --> 00:15:46,739 Death surprised Isadora Duncan. - In Nice. 178 00:15:47,615 --> 00:15:50,409 Jean-Gabriel Domergue stands ready before his tomb, 179 00:15:51,035 --> 00:15:55,080 built the way others build less eternal homes, 180 00:15:55,205 --> 00:15:57,333 full of the charm of life. 181 00:15:57,458 --> 00:15:58,834 THE CHARMER 182 00:15:58,959 --> 00:16:00,377 TENDERNESS 183 00:16:00,502 --> 00:16:01,629 FRENZY 184 00:16:01,754 --> 00:16:03,422 FINALLY 185 00:16:11,430 --> 00:16:16,060 The villa is a delirium of decorative dreaming. 186 00:16:55,182 --> 00:16:58,977 Abandoned gardens, forgotten villas — 187 00:16:59,478 --> 00:17:01,355 this is cinema. 188 00:17:05,693 --> 00:17:07,695 Blasco Ibáñez's friends... 189 00:17:08,153 --> 00:17:11,699 enjoyed this retirement home for writers. 190 00:17:12,074 --> 00:17:14,451 Others prefer hotel life. 191 00:17:14,827 --> 00:17:19,373 What makes them prefer one particular hotel... 192 00:17:20,207 --> 00:17:22,626 is the doorman's greeting. 193 00:17:23,585 --> 00:17:27,214 How familiar he is with you is the barometer 194 00:17:27,339 --> 00:17:30,217 that tells whether you're a somebody or a nobody. 195 00:18:18,182 --> 00:18:20,434 Doorman for 20 years at the Grand Hôtel... 196 00:18:22,394 --> 00:18:24,772 he's still playing the game, 197 00:18:24,897 --> 00:18:27,107 welcoming small-timers 198 00:18:27,232 --> 00:18:30,778 with a nagging nostalgia for the big spenders. 199 00:18:41,288 --> 00:18:43,624 Where is the formerly Grand Hôtel? 200 00:18:46,835 --> 00:18:49,213 Where is Eden Roc? 201 00:18:49,379 --> 00:18:50,964 Where is Eden? 202 00:18:52,424 --> 00:18:54,551 The entire coast sighs for it. 203 00:18:55,260 --> 00:18:57,554 The entire coast loves its name. 204 00:19:11,026 --> 00:19:14,279 PEDAL BOATS ON THE OTHER SIDE OF EDEN 205 00:19:16,240 --> 00:19:18,909 There's never enough to go around. 206 00:19:19,993 --> 00:19:22,329 Forbidden Eden creates a stir. 207 00:19:24,164 --> 00:19:26,291 Nostalgia gives way to a carnival. 208 00:22:03,532 --> 00:22:05,325 The carnival burns. 209 00:22:05,534 --> 00:22:07,244 The earth trembles. 210 00:22:07,577 --> 00:22:10,872 The sun goes mad. The waters are calmed. 211 00:22:10,998 --> 00:22:13,834 Carnival is dead. Silence reigns. 212 00:22:15,419 --> 00:22:17,838 Silence in reply to so many questions, 213 00:22:18,005 --> 00:22:20,298 to volcanoes and whirlwinds. 214 00:22:20,674 --> 00:22:22,175 Eden exists. 215 00:22:22,718 --> 00:22:24,302 It's a dawn. 216 00:22:24,678 --> 00:22:26,513 Eden exists. 217 00:22:28,015 --> 00:22:29,891 It's an island. 218 00:25:17,809 --> 00:25:22,439 Paradise was a beach and a pinecone. 219 00:25:23,440 --> 00:25:27,194 But nostalgia for Eden is a garden. 220 00:25:32,365 --> 00:25:34,701 It's no longer the Côte d'Azur... 221 00:25:35,118 --> 00:25:37,370 but a transplanted garden... 222 00:25:37,746 --> 00:25:42,542 the notion of a garden, with flowers, lawns, and colonnades. 223 00:25:45,921 --> 00:25:48,298 Forgetting the nearby sea... 224 00:25:48,715 --> 00:25:51,218 the pond is a lament... 225 00:25:51,384 --> 00:25:55,555 the water lily a lingering sigh. 226 00:26:03,730 --> 00:26:06,066 These are false Eves... 227 00:26:06,316 --> 00:26:07,901 ersatz Adams... 228 00:26:08,151 --> 00:26:09,903 imitation Cupids... 229 00:26:10,195 --> 00:26:12,239 deceptive Venuses... 230 00:26:12,906 --> 00:26:16,409 fake caves and pretend nymphs. 231 00:26:18,495 --> 00:26:21,122 Though these reveries are shared by all, 232 00:26:21,248 --> 00:26:23,833 the gardens are not for the public. 233 00:26:24,501 --> 00:26:26,586 This fake Eden is not for us... 234 00:26:27,045 --> 00:26:29,256 no more than the real Eden. 235 00:26:30,257 --> 00:26:32,259 And worst of all... 236 00:26:32,968 --> 00:26:35,929 summer comes to an end. 237 00:26:36,304 --> 00:26:40,141 Until next year 238 00:26:41,977 --> 00:26:45,939 Until next summer, so far away 239 00:26:47,107 --> 00:26:53,154 They've locked the sea away behind a gray horizon 240 00:26:53,280 --> 00:26:55,949 And thrown away the key 241 00:26:57,242 --> 00:27:01,955 Morning glories bloom but for a day 242 00:27:03,290 --> 00:27:08,086 Summer blooms but for a summer 243 00:27:08,378 --> 00:27:13,717 Yesterday was summer, time for sun and play 244 00:27:13,967 --> 00:27:17,262 Now the dazzling summer has faded 245 00:27:18,471 --> 00:27:23,977 Now the reveling sun is jaded 246 00:27:24,352 --> 00:27:26,396 How silly and sad 247 00:27:26,521 --> 00:27:28,815 The party is over 248 00:27:28,982 --> 00:27:33,570 Summer is gone 19066

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