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On 17th June 2019, an Italian expedition of mountain climbers, accompanied by their Pakistani Guides,
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was hit by an avalanche near the summit of the 5,800 meters Lion Melvin Jones Peak.
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I kept praying and praying but nobody listened. There was no one with us, except for God.
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I was stuck deep in snow when the thought hit me that how am I going to save myself and the others.
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I saw someone near me whose face was covered in blood.
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I also realized that there was snow in my mouth. I prayed 'Ya Ali' and pushed the snow out of my mouth,
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which gave me a cut here.
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This is to inform you that the expedition to Nanga Parbat has gone missing.
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[NEWS]
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The Italian expedition along with the Pakistani guide who were at Hindu Khush's Melvin Jones Peak,
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at a height of 5,800 meters, is still missing.
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5:30 in the morning.
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I'm up and preparing for the day.
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These people like to stick by the schedule.
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That's right. That's why they are always on time.
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Always on time.
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6:30 in the park
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I know you just talk when talking
But can you just walk when walking
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Early morning, exercise, head-to-head race
putting your soul into the flight.
who's gonna put up a fight
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That's Nadeema, a mountaineer from Shimshal.
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She was also part of the Italian expedition at the Melvin Jones Peak.
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And she was accompanied by Shakila.
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These people are all from different places. Some are from Lahore, some from Islamabad,
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some from Hunza, and Shimshal.
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But what is common between them is that they're all mountain lovers.
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New faces, new faces.
New names, new names
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Who are these people?
What is their game?
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Hassan Jaan
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Abdul Joshi
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Sarbaaz Khan
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Muhammad Ali Sadpara
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Ali Bhai is nothing less than a legend in mountain climbing.
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He is the first one to climb Nanga Parbat in winters.
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He represents Pakistan's mountain climbers' community worldwide.
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He has also climbed K-2 and Lhotse – all without oxygen.
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Thanks to Allah, I have climbed without any supplementary oxygen.
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We're here in Islamabad.
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We amateurs are warming up here on Margalla hills for the upcoming trek.
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There are more people following me.
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During climbing, especially in winters, if we find a landscape like this, it feels like we're in a park in Islamabad.
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The footage shows why he says so.
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This is Sarbaaz on his way to K-2. 80 out of 300 people lose their lives while summiting K-2.
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We are being gauged on our performance that whether we are fit for the coming expedition or not.
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I think we will be able to do it.
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Abdul Joshi.
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Once Abdul Bhai lost hit cap to Braldu river.
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Joshi is a very skilled mountain guide and glacier expert.
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Here, check out his technical climbing skills.
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He is going free solo. I don't think there is any rope there.
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Isn't this amazing!
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His Instagram link is in the description below. Go follow.
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He was in Islamabad when he received the news about the water accumulating in the Khurdopin glacier in Shimshal.
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After every 20 years, the Khurdopin glacier begins to move.
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In October 2016, a surge in the movement of the glacier was observed.
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In March 2017, the glacier touched a mountain base, which eventually formed a lake there.
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There were several speculations about the lake across the world. People were quite scared as the horrors of the Attabaad lake were still fresh in their memories –
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when because of the changed trajectory of the river, several villages came underwater.
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When I reached the glacier, people said there no route ahead to go forward.
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But I could see a way out – a technical one though.
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When he says a 'technical route' then it means something impossible for the layman.
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But what is a dead-end to us is a new opportunity for him to make carve a new path.
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And he holds a completely different attitude in this regard.
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If we have been born in this world then there's nothing impossible for humans. Everything is possible.
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With this very attitude, Joshi Bhai is piercing through the hardships of life.
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When we reached the location and evaluated it to see if the lake is going to drain or not,
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we found that there wasn't enough water to break the blockage all at once.
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Because the glacier was touching the mountain at several locations.
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Even if the water had broken one of them, there were many others on its way.
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It would have taken the water ample time to drain out.
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When I reached Shamshal, I reported that there is no potential danger at the lake and thus, people should be bothered in the surrounding areas.
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Yes, a lake has formed, but it poses no danger.
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And that's exactly what happened. Gradually, the water drained out.
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Joshi Bhai is still talking to the DC Hunza regarding the situation. Looks like an emergency.
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Saad Munawar, the mountain writer.
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Saad has written two books: Chogori and Rakaposhi key Sayey main. And both are on my list.
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This expedition is his endeavor. The value of life expedition.
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I’ll tell you more about it. But before that, there is one more person I want to introduce,
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Sarbaaz Khan.
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Sarbaaz is also among the climbers from China, Nepal, and Iceland who climbed one of the highest peaks, K-2, during winters.
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Sarbaaz Khan says that he is immensely proud of the achievement.
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Sarbaaz is an extraordinary mountaineer. He's a tiger! Or a snow Leopard.
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He is the first Pakistani to summit Lhotse in Nepal, and he is on a mission.
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Mission Summit 14 aims to climb the 14 peaks in the world above 8000 meters and I have already climbed 5 of them.
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Three of them are in Pakistan and two in Nepal.
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Sarbaaz is also a vlogger and has an active Instagram. Go follow.
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There are 5 peaks in Pakistan: Broad Peak, K-2, Nanga Parbat, Gasherbrum I, and Gasherbrum II. The rest of the 8 are in Nepal.
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We are heading towards K-2 for the International K-2 Winter Expedition 2020 to hoist our country's flag.
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Today, all the famous climbers in the world are looking at K-2.
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And so is Sarbaaz. in fact, he has been there. But this time, he wants to go during winters.
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I don't think it's a great idea though.
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But then if you ask me, I find all of this a little crazy.
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Last year, I attempted to climb K-2 during winters but due to bad weather, we had to call off the expedition.
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Indeed, those who take bigger risks in life are able to accomplish bigger endeavors.
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I guess it is not always necessary to stay within the bounds of what is possible.
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There are people in the world who aim to make the impossible possible.
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But it's risky. Sometimes, the risk exceeds all limits. People have lost their fingers to frostbite as Hassan Jaan did.
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If the helicopter reaches there on time, they will be rescued.
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Saim Bhai said, since it's technical, it will take some time.
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Two polish climbers have fallen off the mountain. Their rope snapped and now they are suspended in the air.
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Here they are. One has broken his arm and the other has had a frostbite.
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I hope they make it outlive.
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In today's story if you don't see my face often then it's because it's not my story.
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Instead, it's the story of the land that has made me who I'm.
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The land that has given me everything – has given me life and I'm hearing it out.
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I'm listening to the storytellers,
I'm learning from the mountain dwellers,
I might not surpass it today,
But someday I'll survive the geler.
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Filming is what I do for fun
I sound sleazy but that's a pun
blabbering is now another trend
but I'm aiming to survive the long-run.
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I'm listening to the storytellers
I'm learning from the mountain dwellers
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Joshi Bhai has finally gotten some time after the polish tragedy.
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Yes, he has been busy for a long time. It was quite a disaster and you had a lot to look after.
So many calls you have been receiving.
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I know. And there are still things to be done.
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Hasn't the rescue been completed?
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It has but the dead body hasn't been retrieved yet.
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The climber who broken his arm died hanging in the air while the other was rescued.
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On 17th June 2019, when the Italian expedition along with the Pakistani guides was hit by the avalanche,
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Shakila looked at uncle Imtiaz and said, 'Imtiaz, it's here'.
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And uncle replied, 'It's okay. We'll survive'.
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He said that and then we all fell together. We were all tied up in the same rope and were led by the leader who was at the top.
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When the avalanche hit us, I passed out and become unconscious. I gained my senses back late at night.
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At that moment I realized that I was all by myself. I called out Nadeema's name thrice and Imtiaz's thrice.
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Shakila’s brother Imtiaz couldn't make it.
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Everyone has packed their stuff and we are about to leave for Booni. Booni is even further north of Chitral. It will take us around 3 hours via car.
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We have different types of vehicles to travel in. We have jeeps as well as high-roofs.
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Ahsan Bhai we have been given the option to travel either via jeep or high-roof. What do you want?
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I think a jeep would be a better option.
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I said the same.
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Ali Bhai, are you also opting for a jeep ride?
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It’s not just a jeep for me. In the world of the mountaineers, we call it the royal ride of the mountain.
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From Chitral, we have to go to Booni and from Booni to Zanni pass. We will be exploring our way there on the mountain's royal ride.
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Next to Booni are Qaqlasht meadows. Here is located the ground for Chitrali polo.
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It’s a good idea for us to rest while Joshi Bhai is still busy with the rescue.
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Both of us were trembling because of shock. We could hear horrifying voices from the other tent. These were of those severely injured, probably of Imtiaz too.
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How we spent that night no one could ever imagine. It's only between us and Allah.
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At that time, Abdul Joshi was on his way to summit the Passu cones at camp 4.
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I had been planning to climb Passu cones for the past 5 years.
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Joshi was going to be the first climber in the world to summit the Passu cones.
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We got a call from the village that our group has been hit by an avalanche and Imtiaz is still missing while Shakila, Nadeema, and the foreigners are still stuck up there.
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The Italians told me that the rescue helicopter will be here in 20 minutes.
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I think God was by our side all along. Nobody else, just God.
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24 hours after the avalanche, the rescue helicopter arrived but they couldn't take Imtiaz's body along.
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Welcome to Mountain View Guesthouse, Booni.
As per the local time, It’s 9:30 in the morning.
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So, we began our journey from Islamabad and then we crossed Dir via airplane.
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We also came across Chitral Gol National Park but since we had already been there, we didn't stay there for long. And finally, we reached Booni.
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We had been to Phonder too, but because of a blunder, we weren't able to see the Shandur festival.
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But we got to see Chitrali Polo this time. It was a delight.
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We are heading towards Zanni Pass. We have heard that here resides Tirch Mir.
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Tirich Mir is the highest mountain in the Hindukush range. It is the highest mountain outside the Himalayan and Karakorum ranges.
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We would be needing these technical skills here, at a temperature that could simply freeze us.
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This is Zanni Pass. A campsite is being set up in the background.
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It’s getting pretty cold here and we're having some difficulty while breathing. This means the oxygen level has dropped.
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Tomorrow, we will be leaving for our trek and we have heard, it's going to be even colder there.
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Although I'm looking forward to it, I'm a little apprehensive about it.
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Babe, we have the cutest tent. It's a two-person tent. See, the orange one there.
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That’s so cozy and cute.
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Saab Bhai, at what altitude we are right now?
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We are approximately at an altitude of 4100 meters.
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What must be the temperature right now?
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I don’t know the exact temperature but we must have reached zero degrees. And by the evening, the temperature will drop even below zero. Hopefully.
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Why are you so excited about it?
He probably is going to write a book about it. Isn't he?
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Well, Saad has inspired me to start writing again.
I mean I write anyway but I have been exploring the conventional paper-pen again.
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The new merch is quite cool. You can also get your hands on it. Check out inkfactory.pk.
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If you come from a warmer climate, it takes you longer to get climatized to the new conditions.
And Eruj is from Karachi, hence.
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It has turned cold. Hasn’t it?
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Yeah pretty cold.
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Last year, Saad Munawar and Kudrat Ali had reached this very point in their attempt to accomplish a world record,
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We covered 640 Km to reach here to complete our world record expedition. Our expedition was based on connecting the three highest mountain ranges in the world:
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Himalayas, Karakorum, and the Hindu Kush.
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We had pushed our limits not just physically but also mentally and emotionally. We were just hoping to successfully complete our final day and achieve our record.
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When Saad received the news of Imitiaz Ahmed’s death.
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I got to know that the foreigners along with the female mountaineers have been rescued while the dead body is still up there in the mountains.
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Like others, Joshi and Saad also abandoned their mission to rescue their friend's body.
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[AZAAN]
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Saad said Azaan (call to prayer) at the Zanni Pass.
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[AZAAN]
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And both of them left their world records incomplete.
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It is so cold at the Pass that the water in the radiator of the car gets frozen so we have to keep the engine running.
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So, today we will begin our trek. Last night was quite challenging as it started to snow and rain, and the temperature dropped to minus 5 degrees.
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Also, because of the low oxygen level in the air, we feel out of breath.
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Let's overcome this challenge and look forward to the journey.
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Hassan Ali Jaan
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Sajid Bhai
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Muhammad Ali Sadpara
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Shakila
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Nadeema
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Haidar
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Azka
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Sadia
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Abdul Joshi
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Bisma
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Sarbaaz
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Mooroo Bhai
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And Saad Munawar
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Even Ahsaan is embarrassed that he doesn’t remember the names yet.
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Abdul Joshi
Sarbaaz Khan
Hassan Jaan
Muhammad Ali Sadpara
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Feels like I have found my heroes.
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When the journey is long, one shouldn't look at the final destination. Instead, each and every step should be lived to the fullest.
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But I can’t help but to see that we have to reach up there.
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Last night when I was breathless, I didn't know what should be my breathing technique – deeper and longer breaths or smaller and quicker ones?
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Now I think my body has found its breathing rhythm.
Another thing that Ali Bhai mentioned is that
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When in mountains, I become a speed climber. Once on a trek, when I was going faster than my friends, they said, 'Ali, are you abandoning us and summitting the mountain all alone?'
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The temperature at that time was around minus 52 degrees. When they caught up to me, they found me in a state of brain freeze.
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Once you are on the go, it's not a good idea to stop. It hampers brain activity and can make you delirious.
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While trekking in the mountains, I kind of get lost there. I forget that people are waiting for me.
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I usually leave at 3 am to check the route and wander till sunlight warms up my body at 10 am in the morning.
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I suddenly feel a jolt that revives my senses and I ask myself ‘Ali, where are you standing?’
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Sounds to me like he almost froze to death.
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Ali Bhai's son, Sajid Sadpara, is the youngest climber to have summitted K-2.
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And Ahsaan and I are the biggest YouTubers in DHA Phase 5, Karachi.
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And we’re also doing fine when it comes to mountain climbing.
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See, this is how it's done! Yay!
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I’m terrified right now but It’s been great! Because we are climbing alongside legends.
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Sarbaaz Bhai is right next to me. He hasn’t beaten me yet. What do you think Sarbaaz Bhai? Are staying back deliberately?
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I’m trying to catch up with you so that I could tell my kids someday that I was climbing with the legends.
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Bro, we have to do it! Come on.
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The enthusiasm I had in the beginning, later turned into helplessness.
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They applauded me to boost my morale but my body gave up.
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Climbing is technical. Very technical.
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Saad Bhai what is the altitude now?
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It must around 4500 meters.
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This is the spot where Saad and Kudrat accomplished their world record.
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Even today, when we climbed here, Saad couldn't help but miss his friend.
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At 4500 meters height, right in front of Tirch Mir, this is Imtiaz Camp.
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Imitiaz was my elder brother. He supported me in becoming a mountaineer.
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We have faced numerous difficulties after his demise.
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What is the value of life? Can you weigh it in a balance?
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I don’t think it can be weighed.
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So, let’s say, on one hand, we have a brave human and on the other hand, a coward human.
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Whose life do you think is more precious?
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The brave one!
The brave one can save several others.
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If we could weigh human life in a balance, what qualities or traits would make it heavier?
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Bravery, skillfulness, determination...
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...it is going good so far...
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What determines the value of human life is how much their friends and family value them.
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Only our beloved knows our worth but sometimes even they underestimate us.
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It is an occurrence of being an unsung hero.
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Nations that fail to recognize its assets are bound to doom.
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...Sajid Sadpara – youngest Pakistani to summit K-2.
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And this is what Saad intended to accomplish through this expedition: to appreciate the value of life
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before it’s no longer there.
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Hail to God is Great.
Pakistan Zindabad.
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