All language subtitles for S01E01 (H264)

'I was born in India
and grew up in the Far East

'and have spent a lifetime
travelling the world.

'But I'm getting older,

'and there's so much
of my own country I haven't seen.'

So I decided that using
my traveller's eyes

that I've taken you on so many trips
around the world,

I'm going to turn that vision
onto this country,

the place that I now call home.

What a place!
Wow.

Oh, what a joy to see these
beautiful birds up close.

'I'm on a journey of discovery
around our great country...'

This is Kashmiri spinach.

I'm a Kashmiri, you know,
I'm a Kashmiri.

'..Finding out
what makes Britain tick...'

Yeah.

'..And revisiting
some familiar old haunts.'

'I'll be covering
all points of the compass...'

We're known as the Game Of Thrones
territory.

'..Meeting the people
who make us unique...'

Do you think somebody's
looking at you

and thinking, "Sandy's had a dram"?

So many people have said,
"You'll make the 100."

I think you will. So far I've made
95 now. Don't tell nobody.

'..Exploring amazing traditions...'

Isn't that fantastic?

Look at this,
it's a mass of colours.

'..And revealing some
breath-taking sights along the way.

'This week takes me north
to the Lakes.'

Windermere.

'Then onto gothic Whitby.

'Via a visit to Bond HQ.'

Oh, my God.
WHIRRI NG

'But we're starting
at Tilbury Docks in Essex

'at the old passenger terminal.'

I spent so much of my childhood
on troop ships,

travelling out to the Far East
and back again,

and I seem to have been
to a lot of ports in England.

Liverpool, Southampton, Portsmouth,

and Tilbury, here in Essex,
is the gateway to London

and a place
where thousands of people

disembarked and departed from

in the years following
the Second World War.

And do you know,
it hasn't changed much since then.

'I wasn't even a year old

'when I arrived in Britain
for the first time.

'We'd sailed from India
after her independence in 1947.'

I think I went on five journeys
and using four ships.

There was the Franconia,
the Dilwara twice, the Empire Orwell

and, extraordinary enough...
the Windrush.

'We sailed aboard
the Empire Windrush in December 1948

'bound for Hong Kong.

'Just six months earlier, the ship
had arrived here at Tilbury.'

NEWSREEL: The Empire Windrush
brings to Britain 500 Jamaicans.

Many are ex-servicemen
who know England.

They served this country well.
In Jamaica they couldn't find work,

discouraged, but full of hope,
they sailed for Britain.

When you stop here, you can see
there's a passport here. Yeah.

And you think,
"Oh, that's a British passport."

But, actually, look again,
it's actually got Jamaica on it.

The people that arrived,
they were citizens.

They were, cos, look, it says

"British, British passport,
Jamaica." Jamaica, yeah.

'Here at Tilbury, artist Evewright

'has mounted photographs
of the Windrush generation

'to honour their contribution
to post-war Britain.'

Are you a child of the Windrush
generation? I am indeed.

It was my father,
he came over in a boat,

he wasn't Windrush, though, er,

one of the many boats... Yeah.
..that sort of arrived.

He came over on his own?

He came on his own
and then he sent for my mother.

Look at these gorgeous
wedding pictures here.

This part of the bridge, you
actually look, we're halfway. Yeah.

So we're about to cross over
into Britain,

it's black and white, so there's
a little bit of contention here,

so you have like the
White Defence League on this side.

Yeah.

And then on this side you've got
unification, people coming together.

Nurses, of course. Nurses.
So fabulous.

Carlton Du rrelL
Ah-ha.

First black headmaster
of a primary school in Essex.

That's the school behind him.
Yeah. That's my mother up there.

Oh, gosh, how beautiful.

Clarice Wright.
Yeah.

Is she with us any more?
She passed away this year, actually.

I'm so sorry. Yeah, yeah.
And this is her bridge.

You know, they didn't just
come as passengers,

they came with their food.

Absolutely.
Clothing. Yeah.

Music. Music. Culture, everything.
Yeah.

That's the British story now.

But this is a symbol, really,
this bridge is a symbol of that.

'From Tilbury, we're driving north,

'but on the way,
I'm making a pit stop.

'Buckinghamshire
is the home of British motor racing.

'Just off the M1 in the village
of Newport Pagnell

'is the historic factory

'of one of the icons of British
engineering, Aston Martin.'

The reason I'm so thrilled
to be here today

is that apart from my love
for fabulous cars,

I once had an entanglement
with a certain secret agent.

'O07, to be precise.

'In 1969, I was a Bond girl
in On Her Majesty's Secret Service,

'and I've remained a fan of the
films, the gadgets and the cars.

'Since it made its first appearance
in Goldfinger in 1964,

'the legendary DB5
has featured in eight Bond films.

'Now Aston Martin
is making 25 perfect replicas.'

Oh, Paul,
what are we looking at here?

'It's a privilege to be shown
round by Paul Spires,

'President of Aston Martin Works.'

The thing is,
the second you come here

you see that unforgettable
shape of the DB5, that's it.

Look at this.

'These limited edition reproductions

'come complete
with all the ingenious gadgets

'featured in the Goldfinger
original.'

How much would one of these
little beauties set me back?

To be honest,
if you've got one of these

you probably have got some land.

OK, I think
I should take one for a test drive.

'Silverstone is the legendary home
of British Formula 1.'

Wow.

'Inside the famous racing circuit is
Aston Martin's very own test track

'where they're trialling
their latest model.

'And in true Bond style,
there are just a few small details

'they want to run through with me
before I can take her for a spin.'

You're Q, aren't you, really?
You sort of are.

OK, so first off...

JOANNA GASPS

This is a French number plate.
Yes, that's the French number plate

out of the Goldfinger film.

MUSIC: 'James Bond Theme'
by Monty Norman

Oh, my God.
WHIRRI NG

Perfectly safe, thankfully.

And then on the rear,
we've got the bullet screen,

this is genuinely bulletproof
material so, er,

we don't suggest that you,
er, test it, but, erm...

That's amazing, Ben.

Hm!

And off we go.

Extraordinary.

Yeah.

Beautiful old-fashioned dials,
clear as a whistle.

No secrets. Well, I mean
apart from the secret weapons.

GUNS WHIRR

My life is complete.

'North of Silverstone,
in the centre of England,

'lies the beautiful county
of Derbyshire.

'The Peak District sweeps across
the southern tip of the Pennines,

'a landscape of heather-covered
moors and limestone plateaus

'that's home to Britain's
first ever National Park.'

Look at that. The Peak District,

great rolling hills
and soft valleys,

and ahead of me, a little village
with a remarkable history.

'This is the village of Eyam.

'With uncanny parallels
to our own times,

'in the year 1665,

'Eyam was struck by its own version
of the coronavirus -

'Bubonic plague.
The infamous Black Death.

'Like us, the way the villagers
here responded

'was a huge test
of their courage and resolve.

'Joan Plant is a descendant
of one of the original survivors.'

Joan, in 1665, the Bubonic plague
was racing across the entire country

and, of course, London was
subsumed by it, suffering terribly.

But here we are in Eyam,
in the middle of Derbyshire,

it seems to be cut off,
how did the plague come here?

The tailor lived just round the
corner here at Plaid Cottage. Yeah.

They were expecting this big
parcel of cloth coming from London.

When it arrived, he opened the box.

What, of course, he couldn't see
were these little fleas.

As soon as he shook the cloth,

all the fleas
that were in this cloth

actually brought this disease
to Eyam,

because within two days,
the tailor died.

Very simple, and a terrible disease,

it was painful and horrible,
wasn't it?

Oh, it was awful. Yeah.
Awful.

But William Mompesson,

who was the rector here
at the church at the time,

he knew that they had to quarantine
this community

to stop this spreading.

And the plan was
to close the church...

Yeah.
..so there were no burials,

everyone had to bury their families
in fields and gardens nearby,

and nobody coming in and out,

so in other words,
the village was isolated.

He was the sort of father
of lockdown, wasn't he? Exactly.

What bravery, what self-sacrifice.

It's just amazing. It is amazing.

'350 years later, in March 2020,
the ancient church of St Lawrence

'closed its doors for only
the second time in its history.'

Mike?

'The rector here is Mike Gilbert,
the successor to William Mompesson,

'who led the parish
at the time of the plague.'

This is what we call
our plague window.

Right in the middle
is William Mompesson

and around him the story happens.

There in, er, left-hand bottom
corner is the death of the tailor

and around him his family are...
they're mourning,

and as you can see, just under that
is the ring of roses.

Ring of roses. Ring-a ring-a roses.
Which was the marks?

A pocket full of posies
to stop the smell.

That's right. "A tissue,
a tissue, we all fall down."

What do you think we learned
particularly from that episode?

You know, in a pre-scientific era,
without all,

all our knowledge, they did exactly
what we've been told to do.

Did lockdown,
they quarantined themselves,

they did social distancing,
they stayed in their own families,

they didn't meet together.

The actual fact was that it stopped.
It worked. Yes, it did.

It did not go any further. It didn't
spread from this little village.

They saved... How far into
the north of England, I don't know.

The parallels with now are
quite extraordinary, aren't they?

Well, they stepped up to the mark.

It was loving sacrifice
of actually saying,

"lt's not about me,
it's about other people."

'By the end of the 14-month outbreak
in Eyam,

'approximately 260 people had died,

'around a third
of the population of the village.

'There's a special place where that
great sacrifice is remembered.'

Oh, Joan,
this is unbelievable countryside.

We're about half a mile
outside Eyam, with rolling hills.

So, yes, so we're coming
towards Riley Graves. Yes, tell me.

So, Riley Graves is really
significant in the story.

'The Hancock family
lived at Riley Farm.

'In the space of a week,
in August 1666,

'Elizabeth Hancock lost her husband
and her six children.'

Oner at the back there,
and Elizabeth.

And William.

J°hn.

Can I show you something awful
I've just seen here?

William Hancock,
buried August the seventh.

Oner Hancock,
buried August the seventh.

So, on one day she had to bury two
of her children.

Two, yeah, yeah.

What does it say
on this big flat stone here?

"Remember man as thou goest by,

"remember man that thou shalt die."

What a reminder.

'Manchester was the world's
first industrial city...

'..an economic powerhouse
made rich by the cotton trade

'and made famous by football.'

What I love about Manchester
is the music,

the energy, the people,

the feistiness, the pride,
the beauty, actually.

And above all... Coronation Street.

'For four weeks
in the summer of 1973,

'I had a starring role on
the most famous street in Britain.'

Have you thought about
what you're saying?

Coronation Street.

It was 1973, I think,

when I got the call
to be in Coronation Street.

I thought my heart
would never stop beating,

the most exciting thing
in the world.

I think the show had been
running for maybe 13 years,

it was easily the longest-running
show in the world,

huge“! popular,

and I was going to play Ken Barlow's
girlfriend, Elaine Perkins,

the daughter of the local
school master, Ken was a teacher.

They had the archway,
I remember, in the old place,

but it didn't have
the Viaduct Bistro in.

And all these modern houses
on this side didn't exist

because we never looked at that
side of the road.

It was much, not less ambitious, but
it was a much smaller scale thing,

we're talking about 47 years ago.

Isn't it astonishing
that I'm still walking

after 47 years in the business?

'One man who's definitely still
going strong is Bill Roache,

'AKA Ken Barlow,

'officially the world's
longest-serving male actor

'in a continuing role.'

Bill, I can't believe
I'm looking at you.

BOTH LAUGH
You haven't changed a bit.

Oh, Bill, we have seen each other
once or twice...

...but, really, other than that, it
was, I counted up, it's 47 years...

...since I was in Coronation Street.

You can't remember this,

but it was a big, bright spot
in my life, you know.

We fell for each other pretty fast,
didn't we?

But you've had 23 girlfriends,

so you don't have to try
to make me feel special.

And are you now married?
I ought to know.

No, you're not.

Maybe Elaine now runs a school
somewhere.

Oh, gosh.

Bill, when you started off,
I mean, you had no idea

that this show was going to run
for over 60 years.

Bill,
you will never leave, will you?

Wouldn't that be something?
No reason why not.

No, stop it, don't lie!

You'll go on forever.

Exactly, it just goes round.

'I'd love to linger in the Rovers,
but I have a train to catch.

'The Settle to Carlisle railway
will take me to the Lakes.

'It's one of the most
spectacular train journeys

'in the United Kingdom.'

Look at this, this is what you
dream of. This is Herriot country.

Walls, sheep, everything immaculate.

Gorgeous little tors, little bit
sort of Wuthering Heights-y.

'The line's most astonishing feature
is the Ribblehead viaduct -

'a towering feat
of Victorian engineering

'that carries the railway a quarter
of a mile across the Ribble Valley.'

Oh, Ribblehead,
so here's the little station,

just before this fantastic viaduct.

It's built on 24 columns,
massively high.

And now we're beginning
to go over it. Here.

Oh, look at this,
isn't this beautiful?

'As the railway line descends,
we come to Appleby in Cumbria.

'The Lake District extends
over 30 miles from east to west,

'containing England's highest peaks
and 16 major lakes.

'And at its heart,
the most celebrated lake of all.'

Windermere.

'For at least 500 years
there's been a ferry crossing

'between Bowness,
on the eastern side of the lake,

'and Far Sawrey on the west.

'The journey only takes ten minutes,

'just long enough for a favourite
Lake District treat.'

Kendall Mint Cake.

It's fantastic,
it's extremely peppermint-y.

It achieved its greatest fame

because Sir Edmund Hillary
took it to the summit of Everest

and all climbers now eat it.

I think it's because it gives you
a bit of a sugar rush

and because the minty-ness
clears your airwaves.

This is actually made on the shores
of Windermere, which is here.

'On the western side of the lake

'lies the home of one of
the greatest figures

'of children's literature...

'..and a personal heroine of mine.'

Look at that little familiar gate.

'Beatrix Potter bought Hilltop Farm

'with the proceeds
from her early children's books,

'and the house and gardens went on

'to inspire
many of her later stories.'

0h!

This is the path
up to Hilltop Cottage.

So much of my life was centred
around Beatrix Potter as a child,

cos even though
we were in the Far East,

her books were just familiar
companions wherever we went.

My sister and I read and knew them
all by name, all the characters,

of course, Tom Kitten
and Peter Rabbit

and Floppsy, Mopsy, Cotton Tail
and Peter.

But Beatrix Potter did everything
from here, in this garden,

she used parts of the garden,
parts of the path...

...the gate I came in through.

You see the three bad kittens
sitting on the wall

and the ducks walking past.

And now they're just
part of history,

part of children's memories forever.

She was a total genius.

'Beatrix spent her childhood
holidays in the Lake District.

'And the people, the landscape,

'and, most of all, the animals
shaped her imagination.'

Hilltop.

Oh, it's so tiny.
It's just a little cottage.

Oh, look, probably the kind of hat
she wore with gloves,

a little stick as she walked around.

And the range, that's so familiar,

that's where naughty Tom Kitten
climbed up the chimney,

that's where he climbed up.

This is the staircase
where Mrs Tabitha Twitchit...

I remember that painting of her
standing there, looking heartbroken.

She was going, "Where's Tom Kitten?
That bad little cat!"

And that's where she was,
she was standing just here.

Look, more treasures here.
GASPS

And tiny, tiny miniatures
of all the figures.

Jemima Puddle-Duck,

Mrs Tiggy-Winkle, Samuel Whiskers,
Peter Rabbit, Jeremy Fisher.

Look at those.
I would have adored those.

Today, Hilltop
is owned by the National Trust.

The curator
is Liz Hunter MacFarlane.

Why was it that Hilltop
was so special to Beatrix Potter?

Well, Hilltop was a real place
of sanctuary for Beatrix,

it was her place of refuge,
it was her little den, if you like.

When she was alive and writing,
and had become a great success,

was she famous
within the village of Sawrey?

Not especially,

she certainly didn't dress the part
of a millionaire.

Tell me what she wore.
Oh, she had a Herdwick tweed suit.

Herdwick is what,
the-the name of the sheep?

Which is the local breed
of sheep here in the Lake District

and they're a very hardy breed,
but their wool is quite rough

and then, erm,
if the weather was poor,

which it often is in this area, erm,

she would put an animal feed sack
over her head

and she once
got mistaken for a tramp.

Beatrix Potter
became tremendously famous

and loved by the world for her
paintings and her children's books,

but, more importantly,
she was huge for the National Trust.

Beatrix's gifts of land and farms
to the National Trust

were some of the biggest
that we'd ever received. Wow!

She knew that
she wanted to preserve, erm,

as much of the Lake District life
as she could,

and, of course, the success of the
little books made that possible.

So by the time she died

she'd amassed 15 farms
and over 4,000 acres that she left.

15 farms? That's extraordinary.

'Beatrix Potter's gift

'forms the nucleus
of the Lake District National Park,

'which today extends
over 900 square miles.'

This is the great Langdale Valley,

fabulously beautiful,
very, very famous.

I can see why Beatrix Potter loved
this part of the world so much.

'Eric Taylforth has been farming
here for over 40 years.

'His sheep are Herdwicks, an ancient
breed native to the Lake District.'

Nell is...
being, sort of, black and white,

pretty much the same colour
as the sheep,

and suddenly you see her
running like an arrow,

and a flurry of creatures.

Look at her.

Isn't that sensational?

ERIC WHISTLES AND SHOUTS

Talk about one man and his dog.

That's Eric and Nell.

We're surrounded by Herdwicks,
aren't we?

We are, these are incredible.

What is it that you, Eric,
admire about Herdwick?

The hardiness of them,

how they've adapted to everything
that's thrown at them

and the characters
that come from them,

you form such incredible bonds
with some of them.

Do you?
They rely on you.

Yeah. How amazing.

So, to me, er,
Herdwick sheep have been here,

history, our farm,
probably 400 years.

They've heard your voice.
Yeah.

They've got the most
beautiful little faces.

They're all different, I love that
criss cross on the faces.

Yeah, well, that's just because
they're starting to lose their wool.

Oh, is that what it is?

Yeah, you see the, the one
in the middle is much whiter.

Yes, got a white face. So, what,
they're born with dark little faces?

Yeah, they're black,
should be all flat black.

If they're born white, you know,

you get some of them
with a bit of white on.

JOANNA LAUGHS

You're the sweetest dog.

Tell me,
do you have only just one dog?

Er, I tend to use, er, one dog, yes.

One's enough to keep an eye on them,

I think the sheep
get more used to it.

Yeah. Are the Herdwicks
safe with you, Nelly?

Erm, very, very safe with her.
Oh, honestly!

Yes.
Adorable movie dog.

The sweetest hound.
This is soppy, isn't it?

Oh, yes, yeah.

But it doesn't,
it doesn't do that with me.

It's just you, Joanna.

Is it just strangers, darling?
Strangers and cameras.

Smile over there. Smile, smile.

'From the Lakes,
I'm travelling to Yorkshire.

'The city of Bradford was once
the wool capital of the world.

'In the 1950s and '60s, it became a
new home for people from South Asia

'who came to work
in the textile industry.

'Today, around a quarter of
the population has Asian heritage.'

Yasmin. Oh, Yasmin, I'm Joanna,
how lovely to see you.

Thank you so much for having me.

You, and the famous allotments,
and the famous women.

'In 2017,
Yasmin Hussein and her friends

'formed their own gardening group

'to tackle the problems of
loneliness and social isolation.'

I smell good food.

Tell me what you're growing.
Can we have a look?

'The ladies have taken over three
allotments here at Scotchman Road

'and grow a huge variety
of fruit and vegetables.'

Oh, don't you love nasturtiums?

Which part?

The petals?

Beautiful. Those are hot ones?

Ooh.

I'm a Kashmiri,
you know, I'm a Kashmiri.

That's my spinach!

You've got good, black
earth here, haven't you?

Yeah.

So, tell me, "ladies allotment,"
explain what you mean by that.

Muslim ladies?

Usually they don't go out
on their own?

It's a brilliant idea, isn't it?

Because they're quite safe here,
they've got comradeship, friendship.

Not lonely any more.

I'd love to meet some of the ladies,
do you think they'd talk to me?

I won't pretend that I'm not drawn a
bit by the food that I saw cooking.

'The ladies allotment
now has around 25 members.

'Most have Asian heritage,

'but the group welcomes women
from all backgrounds.'

As-salamu alaykum, ladies.

How good to see you,
thank you very much indeed.

Despite the weather.
Yorkshire weather.

Yeah, I would love that.

0h!

The perfect way to serve chutney,
with a teapot.

It's heaven.

Even though the rain
is dappling down.

It's lovely to be out
in the fresh air,

and especially with the lockdown,

this was somewhere where we
could come, because it's outdoors.

There's a kind of depression
can set in

when you don't know when something
grim like the coronavirus

is going to go away...

Yeah. ..but there's something
restoring about nature.

Yes, definitely.

Still growing, birds and bees
still flying, snails still eating.

And you see that from,
erm, growing stuff, er,

cos something might look like
it's half dead or it might be dead,

but if you leave it for long enough,
something will happen.

I suppose that's trust,
trust in life. Trust in life. Yeah.

It's a sort of therapy in a way,
isn't it?

More than a therapy,
it's a philosophy.

Well, absolutely, you can read a
lot into gardening. Yeah, you can.

Very good, yeah.
The green gym.

Well, this has been just
a fantastic, fantastic feast.

I don't think I can go

without just tasting a tiny bite
of the rhubarb cake.

Oh, yes, do.

You know, that was just absolutely
lovely, the ladies cooking,

planting things, growing,
eating, feminine friendship,

taking care of each other,

and as I left,
one of these ladies said to me,

"You know, all you really need
in life if you're depressed

"is to grow things, cook things,
and let nature take care of you."

Wise words.

'It's just 30 miles from Bradford
to the heart of the Yorkshire Dales,

'which sweep across the Pennines,

'covering 840 square miles
of windswept moors

'and lush green valleys.

'No wonder Yorkshire
is known as God's Own Country.'

Look how beautiful.
The Yorkshire Dales.

This is Malhamdale,
and I'm going to Gordale Scar.

You can see why
hundreds of thousands,

millions of people, visit this
gorgeous countryside every year,

it's so lovely.

Listen, dashing stream,
dry stone walling.

Fresh air.

'Maxwell Ayamba
leads a pioneering walking group.'

Maxwell?

Hello, Joanna. How lovely
to meet you. Nice to see you.

Oh, look, we're going
on an adventure. I know.

I've never been here before,
have you?

I haven't, but I've heard of it.
Oh, let's go.

'Gordale Scar is one of the natural
wonders of the Yorkshire Dales.

'A towering gorge
carved out of limestone

'that leads to a hidden waterfall.'

Do you walk a lot around here?

I do. I do.
I do a lot of walks, yeah.

And you do a bit of climbing
as well? I do a lot of climbing.

I've been... done Ben Nevis... Yeah.
..done Scafell, Snowdon.

Wow, these are the three big ones,
the Three Peaks, aren't they?

That's right. I walk with a group

called the Black Men Walk For Help
Group. Yeah.

And it was set up based on the fact

that, er, Black men, normally when
they are young, are very active.

But when they get to middle age

they begin to lead that kind of
sedentary life. Yeah.

And therefore don't walk, er,

and so it affects their health
and wellbeing.

Yes. Especially mental health,
it's a big issue.

That's the thing now, isn't it,
today, more than ever,

the importance of keeping this
healthy.

Healthy body, but healthy mind
as well. Yeah. Yeah.

It's so liberating to find yourself

in these kind of
beautiful landscapes

that most people are not aware
they exist.

And so that's why the group
was set up

to open that access to people

from Black
and ethnic minority communities.

So you feel that maybe
the Black community

doesn't feel at home
in the British countryside?

I think, erm, the whole issue

is to do with the history
of the British landscape.

When our, you know, our fathers
came here during the Windrush

they didn't have that
kind of opportunity to really go out

and walk for leisure and recreation.

People are so preoccupied with
working to survive on a daily basis.

Walking is not something that
is really typical of minorities,

it's more typical of people
who've got time to spare,

erm, or maybe are wealthy.

'To promote access
to the countryside

'for people
from diverse backgrounds,

'Maxwell has cofounded a charity,

'The Sheffield Environmental
Movement.'

Basically I am an ecocentrist,

so I see man as part of nature.

And so being-being an ecocentrist

we believe that the only time
you gain happiness

is when you're out in nature.

I believe that, too.
And... You do? Oh.

I didn't know I'm an ecocentrist,
though, but now... now I am!

I'm signed up here, Maxwell.
BOTH LAUGH

Look, look where we are now. Look,
suddenly, we're in this vast...

Look what's happened
to the landscape now, Maxwell. Yeah.

We're suddenly in the great
beginning of the gorge, aren't we?

Yeah. Yeah.
Where is it?

We don't know,
will we hear a great rushing?

We're going round a corner now.
Oh, Maxwell, look at this!

Wow.
What a place.

That's some water, isn't it?
Wow.

Can you imagine how much it
must have...

over the centuries have dashed down?
Wow.

Oh, it's an amphitheatre,
isn't it?

This is a spectacular scene here.

Gosh.
Really very, very impressive.

Oh, can you feel the cold wind
coming down, though?

Nature is so wonderful.

'North east from the Yorkshire Dales
is the beautiful city of Durham...

'..which is home to one of England's
greatest cathedrals

'and a world-class university.

'But I've come here
to see another building,

'one with a very personal
connection.'

I'm in Durham and it's a part
of the world I don't know very well,

but I do know this.

The Lumleys came from here, there's
a village called Great Lumley

and there is, of course,
Lumley Castle.

'Lumley Castle has stood
over the town of Chester-le-Street

'since the late 1300s.

'It was built by a very, very,
distant ancestor of mine

'and, actually,
of Lumleys everywhere.'

Oh, look, big square castle.

'Somewhere in the mists of time,
my branch of the family

'was probably cruelly dispossessed,

'but the castle appears to be open
and so maybe I could lay claim.'

Hello. Good morning, Miss Lumley,
welcome to Lumley Castle.

Thank you very much indeed.

If I can get you to register,
please.

If you can just pop a signature on
there for me, please. Sure I will.

Come and see what I can write,
obviously.

'Joanna...

"..Lumley,"
because it's my name.

Technically, it's not my castle...
yet.

Thank you so much.
You're welcome.

Thank you.

'Over the centuries, Lumley Castle
has been a private residence,

'an archbishop's palace

'and it's still owned
by the Earl of Scarborough.

'Now it's a beautiful hotel
that everyone can enjoy.'

Wow.

Thank you very much indeed.

'Maybe I could just move in here,
no-one would notice.'

Look at that bed!

I've never seen a four-poster bed
as big as that.

It's beautiful.

Thank you so much,
I'll call you when I need you.

Thank you.

I'm driving east across Yorkshire,
it's a huge county.

On the map it looks big,

but when you're driving it,
it seems even bigger,

and it's so different,
this side of the country.

High, wild, desolate,
a bit spooky.

You don't want to be stuck up
on here on a windy cold night.

'My destination
lies on the far side of the moors.

'The ancient fishing port of Whitby.

'In 1890, a young writer
named Bram Stoker

'came here to work on his new book.

'The ghostly town
made such an impression on him

'that he set part of his story
in Whitby.

'The result was one of the most
frightening novels of all time.'

But, of course, the reason I wanted
to come to Whitby above all else

was to see the abbey which inspired
Bram Stoker to write Dracula,

because I was in a Dracula film.

It was 1974, and I was in a film
called The Satanic Rites Of Dracula.

And I was Jessica Van Helsing,
Peter Cushing's granddaughter,

and Christopher Lee as Dracula
chose me as his bride for eternity

to walk by his side
through darkness.

And I just wanted to see
what made Bram Stoker

dream up something of such
absolute enduring horror.

'In the novel,
Dracula's ship lands at Whitby

'and he bounds off, taking
the form of a terrifying dog

'that runs up the hill
and disappears into the abbey.'

At the time that he was writing,
gothic novels were the craze,

legends of far away castles
and monasteries

and eerie stone walls.

And, of course,
Dracula could climb up walls

and climb down them as well.

He could transform himself
into animals, bats,

bats which fly around here
in Whitby Abbey,

Bram Stoker would have adored it.

'Rose Rylands
is a local Whitby storyteller

'who's immersed in the legends
of Dracula.'

Rose, I was in a Dracula film,

and I'm always interested
about the beginnings of Dracula.

Do you think that
Bram Stoker, who came here,

he must have loved it here?

They say he was overwhelmed
when he came to Whitby

by the full moon rising
above the abbey and the church

and this phenomena we get, where
the mist sits in the graveyard

and the tombstones stick up
above the mist.

Do you know
how the legend of Dracula became?

Where did he get that name from?

Apparently, while he was in Whitby,
he went to the local archives

and he found a book,

apparently written by a man
who'd spent some time in Wallachia,

which was part of Romania,

and Count Dracula was in this book

and Dracula means "devil",
so it was a very dark, evil name.

And let's remember
he was a Victorian,

the Victorians were obsessed
with the paranormal, with death,

with the occult, with clairvoyants,
with Ouija boards.

They were... And didn't they...
They loved a good funeral, you know.

They did, they loved that. Yeah.
So there was so much to inspire him.

'In recent years,
Whitby's ghostly atmosphere

'has attracted
a whole new following.

'What began as an informal gathering
of goth friends in a local pub

'has evolved into the twice-yearly
Whitby Goth Weekend.

'An extravaganza
of music and fashion

'that draws goths
from around the world.

'One of them
is boutique owner Elaine Horton.'

How long have you been in this
little shop, Elaine?

Erm, in this location

I think I've been here
about a year and a half now.

'Elaine came to Whitby for a goth
weekend and never wanted to leave.'

GASPS
Elaine...

Oh, my heavens.

It's just packed with treasures.

GAS PS

We've got, sort of, metal-y things,

sort of, lacy things,
corset-y things.

Yeah, something for everyone.

Look at these skeleton hands
coming round the neck.

I think they're glow in the dark
as well, those things.

They glow in the dark.

Possibly the best present
you could give anybody

is a skeleton hand necklace
which glows in the dark.

And this, this...
GONG CHIMES

MOCK FEARFULLY:
The midnight hour has struck!

Oh, here's something gorgeous.

That's a beautiful simple coat.

Can I try that on?
Mm-hm. Of course you can.

Thank you.

'This adventure has made me
see Britain

'as I've never seen it before.
From Tilbury Docks in Essex,

'up through the spine of England,
to the spectacular North Sea coast,

'this is a land that thrills
and amazes me.'

Next week my journey takes me north
to Scotland and Northern Ireland.

0h!

'I'll weave my way
through the Outer Hebrides...

'..go sightseeing
in gorgeous Glencoe

'and visit the land
of Game Of Thrones.'

It's getting chilly.
Winter is coming.

BOTH LAUGH

Whitby, it's been magical.

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