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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:06,000 --> 00:00:12,074 Advertise your product or brand here contact www.OpenSubtitles.org today 2 00:01:39,968 --> 00:01:44,948 [OCEAN WAVES] 3 00:02:09,299 --> 00:02:10,991 Oh my gosh. 4 00:02:17,816 --> 00:02:19,310 It's kind of big, huh? 5 00:02:24,499 --> 00:02:28,956 OK, I need to go. 6 00:02:30,103 --> 00:02:31,622 Good luck, brother. 7 00:03:08,679 --> 00:03:12,082 There really is nothing like being on a huge wall 8 00:03:14,049 --> 00:03:18,364 just with your climbing shoes, your chalk bag, 9 00:03:20,981 --> 00:03:23,682 and dangling by your fingertips. 10 00:03:34,968 --> 00:03:36,932 The waves are smashing into the wall. 11 00:03:38,796 --> 00:03:42,550 You can actually feel the vibrations in the cliff, 12 00:03:42,925 --> 00:03:44,455 and the reverberation in your ears. 13 00:04:27,964 --> 00:04:31,407 Looking around, being in the most spectacular place, 14 00:04:32,638 --> 00:04:36,778 and feeling like the power of the position that I'm in. 15 00:04:48,095 --> 00:04:51,195 There is this moment of truth where you make a decision. 16 00:04:51,385 --> 00:04:52,815 You either go or you don't go. 17 00:05:19,406 --> 00:05:24,022 [SCREAMING] 18 00:05:25,652 --> 00:05:29,747 [YELLING] 19 00:05:29,921 --> 00:05:32,551 When you commit to that move, it's 20 00:05:32,585 --> 00:05:34,715 pretty freaking spectacular. 21 00:05:39,072 --> 00:05:42,162 For me, one of the most special places on the planet 22 00:05:42,209 --> 00:05:46,295 is this island, Mallorca. 23 00:05:47,232 --> 00:05:50,443 It's this plug of limestone in the Mediterranean Sea. 24 00:05:50,456 --> 00:05:53,316 And it's just surrounded by overhanging cliffs 25 00:05:53,330 --> 00:05:54,279 on all sides. 26 00:05:56,256 --> 00:05:58,462 All of these beautiful, sweeping walls, 27 00:05:59,502 --> 00:06:01,876 rounded and sculpted by the sea. 28 00:06:02,982 --> 00:06:04,694 There's just limitless possibilities 29 00:06:04,694 --> 00:06:05,867 for deep water soloing. 30 00:06:08,032 --> 00:06:12,950 When I first came out here, it was this very intense moment 31 00:06:12,948 --> 00:06:14,427 in my life. 32 00:06:15,663 --> 00:06:17,298 My mom had just passed away. 33 00:06:23,292 --> 00:06:26,136 Climbing here opened my eyes to a whole new world 34 00:06:26,564 --> 00:06:28,464 and helped me move forward. 35 00:06:29,827 --> 00:06:33,617 I found this amazing arch and it became an all consuming 36 00:06:33,619 --> 00:06:34,317 project. 37 00:06:38,302 --> 00:06:42,711 [YELLING] 38 00:06:42,911 --> 00:06:46,501 When I finally did Es Pontás, it was a really powerful 39 00:06:46,516 --> 00:06:47,236 experience. 40 00:06:51,571 --> 00:06:55,300 Ever since then, there is like this very special place 41 00:06:55,301 --> 00:06:57,601 in my life for this island. 42 00:07:03,377 --> 00:07:05,657 10 years have passed now. 43 00:07:05,870 --> 00:07:08,370 My life has changed a lot. 44 00:07:08,370 --> 00:07:09,900 I have a family now. 45 00:07:09,900 --> 00:07:10,886 I have a daughter. 46 00:07:19,260 --> 00:07:22,770 But I still come back here, year after year. 47 00:07:22,770 --> 00:07:24,970 I still have that fire and the passion 48 00:07:24,970 --> 00:07:27,097 for climbing ropeless above the sea. 49 00:07:42,782 --> 00:07:44,990 I think the freedom that you could have climbing here 50 00:07:44,990 --> 00:07:46,861 is unparalleled anywhere else. 51 00:07:50,090 --> 00:07:52,070 When you come to these cliffs and they're just 52 00:07:52,070 --> 00:07:57,790 this big blank canvas, if you want to climb in a circle, 53 00:07:57,790 --> 00:07:59,600 you can climb in a circle. 54 00:07:59,600 --> 00:08:01,260 You're not trying to stay in the lines. 55 00:08:01,260 --> 00:08:04,230 You're not thinking about grades, just total freedom 56 00:08:04,230 --> 00:08:08,140 of expression and creativity. 57 00:08:15,101 --> 00:08:17,670 One of the coolest things is arriving 58 00:08:17,670 --> 00:08:24,260 at the base of a virgin cliff and on site free soloing, 59 00:08:24,260 --> 00:08:25,800 first ascent, up a wall. 60 00:08:37,020 --> 00:08:40,250 You're always looking for really solid rock 61 00:08:40,250 --> 00:08:42,560 and overhanging walls. 62 00:08:42,560 --> 00:08:44,120 If it was less than overhanging, then 63 00:08:44,120 --> 00:08:46,320 you'd just kind of like bounce your way down. 64 00:08:49,210 --> 00:08:53,122 [YELLING] 65 00:08:54,590 --> 00:08:57,940 Having a project over the water adds a lot of complexity 66 00:08:57,940 --> 00:08:58,840 to the whole process. 67 00:08:58,840 --> 00:09:01,780 [YELLING] 68 00:09:01,780 --> 00:09:04,034 Falling into the sea hundreds of times. 69 00:09:04,034 --> 00:09:06,818 [YELLING] 70 00:09:09,470 --> 00:09:13,924 If you don't fall right from 60 feet up, could be really bad. 71 00:09:13,924 --> 00:09:17,807 [YELLING] 72 00:09:17,807 --> 00:09:18,525 Oh man. 73 00:09:21,230 --> 00:09:23,690 It's hard to push yourself to the absolute limit 74 00:09:23,690 --> 00:09:25,253 when you're really high up. 75 00:09:25,253 --> 00:09:26,914 [YELLING] 76 00:09:38,310 --> 00:09:40,150 It's not just about being a strong climber, 77 00:09:40,150 --> 00:09:42,190 you also have to be a strong swimmer. 78 00:09:42,190 --> 00:09:45,130 You have to be knowledgeable of the sea, currents, 79 00:09:45,130 --> 00:09:46,622 the wind, the waves. 80 00:09:46,622 --> 00:09:48,580 Really important to figure out how you're going 81 00:09:48,580 --> 00:09:49,840 to get back out of the water. 82 00:09:59,720 --> 00:10:03,170 Deal with being wet and drying off, having multiple chalk 83 00:10:03,170 --> 00:10:06,080 bags, different pairs of shoes. 84 00:10:06,080 --> 00:10:10,880 Trying these big projects, you have to enjoy that process. 85 00:10:10,880 --> 00:10:13,009 It's few and far between when they come together 86 00:10:13,009 --> 00:10:15,160 but it's pretty special when they do. 87 00:10:15,163 --> 00:10:18,642 [YELLING] 88 00:10:26,783 --> 00:10:31,041 [YELLING] 89 00:10:39,122 --> 00:10:44,394 [YELLING] 90 00:10:57,390 --> 00:11:00,240 Sometimes the way I scope out these new areas, just 91 00:11:00,240 --> 00:11:04,790 go swim section of the coastline. 92 00:11:04,790 --> 00:11:08,020 A couple of years ago I swam for miles 93 00:11:08,020 --> 00:11:10,880 and ended up along this really wild coastline 94 00:11:10,880 --> 00:11:14,980 that I had never been to before. 95 00:11:14,980 --> 00:11:17,980 The water was really deep and really dark. 96 00:11:17,980 --> 00:11:20,260 It's an ominous place. 97 00:11:20,260 --> 00:11:24,472 I saw this one wall, it's this beautiful piece of stone, 98 00:11:24,472 --> 00:11:28,680 with these orange and red and gray streaks. 99 00:11:28,680 --> 00:11:32,853 It was everything I could hope for and dream for in a project. 100 00:11:35,260 --> 00:11:40,560 You start with really fun 5.12 climbing, flowing 101 00:11:40,560 --> 00:11:43,760 through these big moves. 102 00:11:43,760 --> 00:11:47,780 But around 50 feet, it quickly becomes this shear wall 103 00:11:47,780 --> 00:11:49,550 with barely anything to hang onto. 104 00:11:54,950 --> 00:11:56,237 You enter the crux. 105 00:11:58,969 --> 00:12:03,820 And it's basically 12 moves of just super gnarly bouldering. 106 00:12:09,299 --> 00:12:13,033 In it started off by getting to this sloping under cling rail, 107 00:12:14,900 --> 00:12:17,510 trusting your feet on these friction bumps. 108 00:12:20,751 --> 00:12:22,250 Get this crimpy pocket. 109 00:12:29,840 --> 00:12:31,230 This super big reach. 110 00:12:35,158 --> 00:12:38,190 [YELLING] 111 00:12:38,190 --> 00:12:42,790 I have like one or two good tries and then need 112 00:12:42,790 --> 00:12:46,876 two rest days because it's so powerful, it's so fingery. 113 00:12:46,907 --> 00:12:48,310 [YELLING] 114 00:12:51,200 --> 00:12:53,870 Some of the hardest moves I have tried over the water. 115 00:12:57,302 --> 00:12:59,216 [YELLING] 116 00:13:01,020 --> 00:13:03,995 I started working out the minute details of the sequence. 117 00:13:07,640 --> 00:13:10,960 You have to get this delicate heel hook, 118 00:13:10,960 --> 00:13:15,160 release your right hand, and grab this horrible hold that's 119 00:13:15,160 --> 00:13:16,462 facing the wrong way. 120 00:13:16,480 --> 00:13:17,799 [YELLING] 121 00:13:21,720 --> 00:13:25,350 After a lot of tries, I realized this could be the next step 122 00:13:25,350 --> 00:13:27,330 in deepwater soloing after Es Pontás. 123 00:13:33,760 --> 00:13:36,110 I've come back here 10 times over the years 124 00:13:36,110 --> 00:13:39,920 to work on this thing, spent over 30 days, 125 00:13:39,920 --> 00:13:43,460 falling hundreds of times into the ocean. 126 00:13:43,460 --> 00:13:45,820 Trying things that are at your limit, most of the time 127 00:13:45,820 --> 00:13:46,660 you're just failing. 128 00:13:51,530 --> 00:13:54,460 I'm 35 now. 129 00:13:54,460 --> 00:13:56,380 I live in Barcelona. 130 00:14:00,700 --> 00:14:03,870 I own a climbing gym. 131 00:14:03,870 --> 00:14:08,160 I started a series of deepwater soloing competitions. 132 00:14:08,160 --> 00:14:09,200 Thanks to everyone. 133 00:14:09,200 --> 00:14:12,280 Thanks to all of the competitors. 134 00:14:12,280 --> 00:14:13,130 Having a business. 135 00:14:13,130 --> 00:14:15,630 Having a family. 136 00:14:15,630 --> 00:14:16,769 Life is busy. 137 00:14:19,915 --> 00:14:22,668 [SPEAKING SPANISH] 138 00:14:31,070 --> 00:14:35,680 Coming back to Mallorca year after year grounds me. 139 00:14:38,130 --> 00:14:42,420 These big projects are like monuments, 140 00:14:42,420 --> 00:14:47,610 markers for important moments in my life. 141 00:14:47,610 --> 00:14:51,594 [MUSIC PLAYING] 142 00:16:09,007 --> 00:16:11,483 [YELLING] 143 00:16:15,403 --> 00:16:17,255 [YELLING] 144 00:16:27,579 --> 00:16:31,692 [YELLING] 145 00:16:45,138 --> 00:16:49,620 [YELLING] 146 00:17:02,509 --> 00:17:09,310 [YELLING] 147 00:17:09,367 --> 00:17:12,388 Good job, dude. 148 00:17:26,140 --> 00:17:29,950 After all this effort it was just an amazing feeling 149 00:17:29,950 --> 00:17:31,180 to bring this thing to life. 150 00:17:35,260 --> 00:17:39,340 I decided to call it Alasha, dedicated to my daughter. 151 00:18:03,100 --> 00:18:04,090 [MUSIC PLAYING] 152 00:18:04,090 --> 00:18:06,120 [YELLING] 153 00:18:06,120 --> 00:18:10,080 The grade of 5.15 is the trophy grade. 154 00:18:10,080 --> 00:18:12,060 It's just a number, but in some way 155 00:18:12,060 --> 00:18:14,130 it represents the unattainable. 156 00:18:14,130 --> 00:18:16,290 The top end of the game. 157 00:18:16,290 --> 00:18:19,740 5.15, honestly, I don't know exactly what that 158 00:18:19,740 --> 00:18:21,291 is because I haven't done it. 159 00:18:21,291 --> 00:18:23,290 It's kind of like breaking the four minute mile. 160 00:18:23,290 --> 00:18:25,170 It's this magical barrier. 161 00:18:25,170 --> 00:18:26,700 Having that number in front of you 162 00:18:26,700 --> 00:18:28,380 creates this anxious feeling. 163 00:18:28,380 --> 00:18:32,610 It takes so much work and so much talent. 164 00:18:32,610 --> 00:18:36,750 You have to be an Olympic athlete, essentially. 165 00:18:36,750 --> 00:18:41,440 5.15 has been a goal of mine for years now. 166 00:18:41,440 --> 00:18:42,600 It's not easy, man. 167 00:18:42,600 --> 00:18:43,976 I don't know anything about 5.15. 168 00:18:43,976 --> 00:18:45,059 I've never climbed a 5.15. 169 00:18:45,059 --> 00:18:46,029 I've never even tried-- 170 00:18:46,029 --> 00:18:49,500 I've never even touched the holds on a 5.15. 171 00:18:49,500 --> 00:18:51,809 Only a few male climbers have achieved the grade. 172 00:18:51,809 --> 00:18:55,529 And we've still been waiting for that first 5.15 ascent 173 00:18:55,529 --> 00:18:58,360 by a woman. 174 00:18:58,360 --> 00:19:00,270 Today, there's definitely an evolution 175 00:19:00,270 --> 00:19:03,720 of more women climbing. 176 00:19:03,720 --> 00:19:07,560 Pushing in every discipline. 177 00:19:07,560 --> 00:19:09,380 Training really, really hard. 178 00:19:09,380 --> 00:19:13,020 This is a huge moment in our sport. 179 00:19:13,020 --> 00:19:16,650 The girls are catching up to the guys. 180 00:19:16,650 --> 00:19:21,150 Right now what we're looking at is this big number of 5.15. 181 00:19:21,150 --> 00:19:23,810 And there's a handful of women gunning for it. 182 00:19:29,690 --> 00:19:32,160 We're all sort of sitting at the edge of our chairs saying, 183 00:19:32,160 --> 00:19:34,840 who's going to do it? 184 00:19:34,840 --> 00:19:36,870 But I don't think Margo Hayes was really 185 00:19:36,870 --> 00:19:38,520 on anyone's short list. 186 00:19:38,520 --> 00:19:42,090 Why is it that I'm a person and I'm not a toad? 187 00:19:42,090 --> 00:19:45,150 Goodnight. 188 00:19:45,150 --> 00:19:48,756 My name's Margo Hayes and I'm-- 189 00:19:48,756 --> 00:19:50,976 have a cough. 190 00:19:50,976 --> 00:19:52,310 OK, wait, start over. 191 00:19:54,840 --> 00:19:59,860 As far as climbing 15a, Margo just wasn't on my radar. 192 00:19:59,860 --> 00:20:04,740 I didn't hear anyone talking about Margo trying 5.15. 193 00:20:04,740 --> 00:20:06,460 Smile, Margo. 194 00:20:06,460 --> 00:20:07,770 No. 195 00:20:07,770 --> 00:20:10,355 Head up a tiny bit. 196 00:20:10,355 --> 00:20:12,580 Be a little more fierce. 197 00:20:12,580 --> 00:20:16,085 [MUSIC PLAYING] 198 00:20:22,830 --> 00:20:25,350 If you want to climb 5.15, there's 199 00:20:25,350 --> 00:20:28,620 no greater concentration on earth than in northern Spain. 200 00:20:28,620 --> 00:20:31,770 Spain is the mecca for hard sport climbing. 201 00:20:31,770 --> 00:20:35,800 The amount of quality test pieces is mind blowing. 202 00:20:35,800 --> 00:20:38,030 Of all the 5.15's La Rambla, 203 00:20:38,030 --> 00:20:40,120 is one of the most iconic routes. 204 00:20:40,120 --> 00:20:43,660 La Rambla has been talked about as long as I've been a climber. 205 00:20:43,660 --> 00:20:46,770 It's an Alex Huber route, rarely climbed. 206 00:20:46,770 --> 00:20:50,010 Super long, giant moves, like a really harder style 207 00:20:50,010 --> 00:20:52,440 of climbing. 208 00:20:52,440 --> 00:20:55,770 Jon Cardwell and I had made these plans to go to Spain 209 00:20:55,770 --> 00:20:57,540 and try La Rambla. 210 00:20:57,540 --> 00:20:59,460 Margo was living in Europe at the time. 211 00:20:59,460 --> 00:21:03,010 We know Margo from climbing in Colorado. 212 00:21:03,010 --> 00:21:05,970 I was her coach when she was a kid. 213 00:21:05,970 --> 00:21:10,170 She wanted to join us, but we had no idea what her goal was. 214 00:21:10,170 --> 00:21:12,724 We certainly didn't think that it was La Rambla. 215 00:21:16,810 --> 00:21:19,890 We walk up to the crag in Siurana. It's pretty intense, 216 00:21:19,890 --> 00:21:22,580 there's all these world class climbers. 217 00:21:22,580 --> 00:21:26,390 Margo walks straight over to La Rambla and started tying in. 218 00:21:26,390 --> 00:21:28,730 She was this unknown 19-year-old getting 219 00:21:28,730 --> 00:21:30,590 on one of the hardest routes in Siurana. 220 00:21:30,590 --> 00:21:32,540 And a lot of people at the crag were skeptical 221 00:21:32,540 --> 00:21:34,940 in the beginning, kind of like, why is she trying it? 222 00:21:34,940 --> 00:21:35,930 Why is she up there? 223 00:21:39,740 --> 00:21:42,050 Matty and I definitely had our doubts. 224 00:21:42,050 --> 00:21:44,990 We had trained our ass off for this route. 225 00:21:44,990 --> 00:21:46,627 We were like, are you sure? 226 00:21:46,627 --> 00:21:47,710 Are you sure you're ready? 227 00:21:52,880 --> 00:21:56,450 When I can sense others doubting what I can do, 228 00:21:56,450 --> 00:21:59,480 it's only more motivating. 229 00:21:59,480 --> 00:22:01,760 My determination triples. 230 00:22:04,550 --> 00:22:09,690 I've been thinking about La Rambla for quite some time. 231 00:22:09,690 --> 00:22:13,160 I had watched countless videos, visualized 232 00:22:13,160 --> 00:22:16,630 the sequences and the moves. 233 00:22:16,630 --> 00:22:20,773 And I came here to climb my first 5.15. 234 00:22:20,793 --> 00:22:22,617 Come on, Margo. 235 00:22:30,970 --> 00:22:33,840 The men who have climbed it tend to use brute strength 236 00:22:33,840 --> 00:22:35,134 to get through the moves. 237 00:22:35,134 --> 00:22:36,950 [YELLING] 238 00:22:36,950 --> 00:22:38,660 I have quite a bit of flexibility. 239 00:22:43,960 --> 00:22:47,740 My feet can go above my head. 240 00:22:47,740 --> 00:22:50,278 My hips can stay pretty close to the wall. 241 00:23:00,762 --> 00:23:02,250 Come on, Margo. 242 00:23:02,250 --> 00:23:05,440 It was pretty clear that she had done her homework. 243 00:23:05,440 --> 00:23:06,670 She was ready for the fight. 244 00:23:09,156 --> 00:23:11,830 It's like [HISS]. 245 00:23:11,830 --> 00:23:15,484 We were all working together on the route, trading burns. 246 00:23:21,066 --> 00:23:24,970 That's everything I have. 247 00:23:24,970 --> 00:23:29,610 We started to realize that she could send this route. 248 00:23:29,610 --> 00:23:34,116 And she's probably going to send it before both of us. 249 00:23:34,116 --> 00:23:39,106 [SPEAKING SPANISH] 250 00:23:42,110 --> 00:23:44,780 Most people only can try it one or two times 251 00:23:44,780 --> 00:23:48,200 before they're just exhausted. 252 00:23:48,200 --> 00:23:51,166 But Margo, she would try it 3 times, 4 times a day. 253 00:23:51,168 --> 00:23:53,522 Oh, I blew it. 254 00:23:53,526 --> 00:23:54,457 Come on, come on. 255 00:23:55,569 --> 00:23:56,186 Come on. 256 00:23:59,695 --> 00:24:01,905 Your hands, huh, did you survive? 257 00:24:01,905 --> 00:24:04,295 I was bleeding so bad, you should see those holds. 258 00:24:04,313 --> 00:24:07,543 Wow, they do look pretty ravaged. 259 00:24:07,600 --> 00:24:10,650 Usually before the last try she would look to Matty 260 00:24:10,650 --> 00:24:13,870 and I with like bleeding fingertips and tape everywhere 261 00:24:13,870 --> 00:24:16,900 and asked, should I try it again? 262 00:24:16,900 --> 00:24:20,597 Like, I wouldn't, but if you want to, I'll belay you. 263 00:24:23,530 --> 00:24:24,790 She was relentless. 264 00:24:24,790 --> 00:24:26,740 She was focused. 265 00:24:26,740 --> 00:24:28,870 But I've known Margo since she was little. 266 00:24:28,870 --> 00:24:31,520 She has been like that her entire life. 267 00:24:31,520 --> 00:24:33,900 Oh, and who's this? 268 00:24:33,900 --> 00:24:35,950 Margo. 269 00:24:35,950 --> 00:24:37,590 How are you feeling, Margo? 270 00:24:37,590 --> 00:24:38,590 I'm feeling fine. 271 00:24:38,590 --> 00:24:40,920 After falling in the river. 272 00:24:40,920 --> 00:24:45,050 As soon as she could walk, she was a very active kid, 273 00:24:45,050 --> 00:24:47,700 climbing up on top of the chicken coop 274 00:24:47,700 --> 00:24:49,930 and climbing up in trees. 275 00:24:49,930 --> 00:24:53,650 Instantly, she was a very competitive individual. 276 00:24:53,650 --> 00:24:55,240 I competed as a gymnast. 277 00:24:55,240 --> 00:24:57,880 I always wanted to challenge myself and get better. 278 00:25:01,310 --> 00:25:03,430 I've been setting goals since I can remember. 279 00:25:03,430 --> 00:25:06,760 We find little pieces of paper sitting around the house that 280 00:25:06,760 --> 00:25:08,470 have Margo's goals. 281 00:25:08,470 --> 00:25:10,820 I mean, those aren't simple goals. 282 00:25:10,820 --> 00:25:13,660 You know, gold medal in the Olympics. 283 00:25:13,660 --> 00:25:16,060 I would maybe push it a little too fast 284 00:25:16,060 --> 00:25:18,580 and go for skills that maybe I wasn't quite ready for. 285 00:25:18,580 --> 00:25:22,390 She ended up breaking bones in her feet seven times. 286 00:25:22,390 --> 00:25:25,600 At one point, I'd broke a bone in my foot at the gym. 287 00:25:25,600 --> 00:25:27,970 I knew that it would mean I had to take time off. 288 00:25:27,970 --> 00:25:29,720 And I just didn't want to tell my coach. 289 00:25:29,720 --> 00:25:31,490 I just wanted to keep doing gymnastics. 290 00:25:31,490 --> 00:25:32,780 I went into the bathroom. 291 00:25:32,780 --> 00:25:35,080 I'm thinking, why does she keep going in the bathroom? 292 00:25:35,080 --> 00:25:37,595 And it turns out that she fractured her foot, 293 00:25:37,595 --> 00:25:39,345 and she was putting her foot in the toilet 294 00:25:39,345 --> 00:25:42,130 to ice it and not tell me. 295 00:25:42,130 --> 00:25:45,070 During that time, I decided I wanted to cut my hair short. 296 00:25:45,070 --> 00:25:46,757 Number two buzz cut on her head. 297 00:25:46,757 --> 00:25:48,340 And I remember saying, I'm going to be 298 00:25:48,340 --> 00:25:50,698 able to do more pull ups now cause I'm lighter. 299 00:25:53,000 --> 00:25:54,449 She had a lot of personality. 300 00:25:54,449 --> 00:25:56,240 You could just sense that drive in somebody 301 00:25:56,240 --> 00:25:58,570 who just, wow, this person is willing to do anything 302 00:25:58,570 --> 00:26:02,290 and willing to try hard, and is a perfectionist. 303 00:26:02,290 --> 00:26:04,550 And Margo had the wow factor. 304 00:26:04,550 --> 00:26:08,036 You see somebody do a skill, and you go, wow. 305 00:26:08,036 --> 00:26:09,410 We selected her as very talented, 306 00:26:09,410 --> 00:26:11,990 and we started developing her for the Talent Opportunity 307 00:26:11,990 --> 00:26:13,790 Program, the Olympic selection committee. 308 00:26:13,790 --> 00:26:15,560 I qualified for the National Testing, 309 00:26:15,560 --> 00:26:18,465 which was in Texas at Bela Karolyi's ranch. 310 00:26:21,920 --> 00:26:23,900 And I remember my mom picking me up from school 311 00:26:23,900 --> 00:26:25,430 and she said, you qualified. 312 00:26:25,430 --> 00:26:27,245 And I was like, a team or b team? 313 00:26:27,245 --> 00:26:29,480 And she was like, b team. 314 00:26:29,480 --> 00:26:32,870 And I remember just crying. 315 00:26:32,870 --> 00:26:36,080 Ever since I was little, I've always 316 00:26:36,080 --> 00:26:40,970 wanted to be the best in things that I tried. 317 00:26:40,970 --> 00:26:43,940 Cats Gymnastics where Margo trained as a gymnast 318 00:26:43,940 --> 00:26:45,740 also doubles as a climbing gym. 319 00:26:45,740 --> 00:26:47,780 Being in Boulder, Colorado, you have 320 00:26:47,780 --> 00:26:49,700 some of the best in the world training there. 321 00:26:49,700 --> 00:26:52,610 I remember watching the climbers on the wall, 322 00:26:52,610 --> 00:26:55,640 like Robyn Erbesfield and Lynn Hill. 323 00:26:55,640 --> 00:26:58,490 She would watch people climbing and training. 324 00:26:58,490 --> 00:27:00,260 And she was kind of curious about it. 325 00:27:00,260 --> 00:27:03,500 I did some top roping and I ended up liking climbing. 326 00:27:03,500 --> 00:27:07,280 She came to team ABC with really high expectations 327 00:27:07,280 --> 00:27:08,270 and goals for herself. 328 00:27:08,270 --> 00:27:11,150 I would show up at practice and Margo would already 329 00:27:11,150 --> 00:27:12,351 be there, ready to go. 330 00:27:12,351 --> 00:27:13,850 And all the other kids would be kind 331 00:27:13,850 --> 00:27:15,380 of running around goofing off. 332 00:27:15,380 --> 00:27:19,100 And she was different, very driven, very focused. 333 00:27:19,100 --> 00:27:21,230 And it really struck me as quite unusual 334 00:27:21,230 --> 00:27:24,140 that such a young girl was so serious 335 00:27:24,140 --> 00:27:26,060 and so willing to push herself. 336 00:27:26,060 --> 00:27:27,890 The first time that I went to a competition 337 00:27:27,890 --> 00:27:31,850 and I got butterflies in my stomach, I was like, OK. 338 00:27:31,850 --> 00:27:32,520 I like this. 339 00:27:32,520 --> 00:27:34,550 I can do this sport, you know? 340 00:27:34,550 --> 00:27:38,000 She did her first 5.12, and then her first 5.13, and then 341 00:27:38,000 --> 00:27:39,250 her first 5.14. 342 00:27:39,250 --> 00:27:41,510 That's when we first started to get wind of, 343 00:27:41,510 --> 00:27:43,260 what's this girl capable of? 344 00:27:43,260 --> 00:27:46,470 I think I started believing in my own ability more and more. 345 00:27:46,470 --> 00:27:48,800 And there was no stopping that kid. 346 00:27:48,800 --> 00:27:51,070 You know, I see Margo come to Rifle 347 00:27:51,070 --> 00:27:54,210 and do Bad Girls Club, that route is really thuggy, 348 00:27:54,210 --> 00:27:56,720 mean, one of the hardest ascents in the US. 349 00:27:56,720 --> 00:28:00,350 To see her do that, I was just like, whoa. 350 00:28:00,350 --> 00:28:03,290 After I graduated from high school, 351 00:28:03,290 --> 00:28:07,220 I decided to move to Europe, learn another language, 352 00:28:07,220 --> 00:28:11,030 challenge myself and climb hard. 353 00:28:11,030 --> 00:28:13,100 Europe, it's a really great place 354 00:28:13,100 --> 00:28:17,144 to be based if you want to push yourself in the sport. 355 00:28:17,144 --> 00:28:19,088 [MUSIC PLAYING] 356 00:28:19,088 --> 00:28:25,090 In 1990, I moved to France and I lived there for five years. 357 00:28:25,090 --> 00:28:29,510 It's a little bit like if you're a surfer you go move to Hawaii. 358 00:28:29,510 --> 00:28:34,540 My goal was to be the first woman to climb 5.14. 359 00:28:34,540 --> 00:28:37,300 There were people like JB Tribout who said, 360 00:28:37,300 --> 00:28:41,660 oh, a woman will never do 5.14. 361 00:28:41,660 --> 00:28:42,820 Oh, really? 362 00:28:42,820 --> 00:28:44,900 I'm going to find a way to do it. 363 00:28:44,900 --> 00:28:48,210 And so I ended up doing a route that he had put up, 364 00:28:48,210 --> 00:28:53,650 first female ascent of a 5.14. 365 00:28:53,650 --> 00:28:56,350 I knew it was possible and it was really important to me 366 00:28:56,350 --> 00:29:00,360 to actually prove that it was. 367 00:29:00,360 --> 00:29:02,150 That's the same thing that Margo's doing. 368 00:29:05,140 --> 00:29:06,700 There's an objective out there. 369 00:29:06,700 --> 00:29:08,639 She knows it's possible and she's 370 00:29:08,638 --> 00:29:09,640 going to find a way to do it. 371 00:29:13,040 --> 00:29:17,080 If you have any doubt and you're right at that threshold, 372 00:29:17,080 --> 00:29:20,140 and you think that 5.15 belongs to men or only 373 00:29:20,140 --> 00:29:23,230 these people can do it, then that little bit of weakness 374 00:29:23,230 --> 00:29:25,096 can cause you to fail. 375 00:29:25,096 --> 00:29:28,410 Come on, Margo. 376 00:29:28,410 --> 00:29:30,973 What is the 5.15 barrier? 377 00:29:30,981 --> 00:29:32,147 Good. 378 00:29:33,610 --> 00:29:37,520 Is it that women haven't tried it? 379 00:29:37,520 --> 00:29:40,970 Do we not believe we can do it? 380 00:29:40,970 --> 00:29:42,806 Is Margo going to change that? 381 00:29:42,806 --> 00:29:44,755 Come on, Margo. 382 00:29:44,755 --> 00:29:46,235 You can do this. 383 00:29:46,235 --> 00:29:46,735 Come on. 384 00:29:50,178 --> 00:29:51,118 Good. 385 00:29:58,586 --> 00:29:59,085 Yes. 386 00:30:03,108 --> 00:30:04,322 Good. 387 00:30:06,060 --> 00:30:08,012 Come on. 388 00:30:09,027 --> 00:30:12,770 Come on, come on, come on. 389 00:30:12,770 --> 00:30:15,340 Let's go, Margo. 390 00:30:15,340 --> 00:30:15,840 Yes. 391 00:30:24,714 --> 00:30:25,700 Squeeze, Margo. 392 00:30:29,151 --> 00:30:31,116 Come on. 393 00:30:31,116 --> 00:30:31,616 Yes. 394 00:30:35,043 --> 00:30:37,018 Breathe, Margo. 395 00:30:50,860 --> 00:30:55,300 You get to this point where you know it's possible for you 396 00:30:55,300 --> 00:30:56,490 and you know you can do it. 397 00:31:00,370 --> 00:31:05,748 It's important to stay in the moment, breathe, relax. 398 00:31:14,630 --> 00:31:18,987 On the last two moves, my breathing started to change. 399 00:31:18,987 --> 00:31:20,536 I felt like I was shaking. 400 00:31:34,520 --> 00:31:36,338 Oh my god. 401 00:31:38,976 --> 00:31:40,972 Take. 402 00:31:40,998 --> 00:31:44,990 [CHEERING] 403 00:31:46,318 --> 00:31:47,815 Oh my god. 404 00:31:47,815 --> 00:31:51,308 I'm crying. 405 00:31:51,308 --> 00:31:53,920 I feel like I'm dreaming. 406 00:31:53,929 --> 00:31:54,770 Nice job. 407 00:31:54,774 --> 00:31:55,353 Thanks. 408 00:32:01,815 --> 00:32:03,280 Yeah. 409 00:32:03,280 --> 00:32:06,830 It was a big deal for the climbing community, 410 00:32:06,830 --> 00:32:09,620 for women, for all of us. 411 00:32:14,640 --> 00:32:19,079 I was like, oh man, go Margo. 412 00:32:19,093 --> 00:32:21,708 Thank you. 413 00:32:22,940 --> 00:32:24,170 She sends La Rambla. 414 00:32:24,170 --> 00:32:26,210 It's this incredible experience. 415 00:32:28,930 --> 00:32:33,070 And then she's already writing down new goals. 416 00:32:33,070 --> 00:32:36,681 It's like La Rambla was just the stepping stone for something 417 00:32:36,681 --> 00:32:37,180 bigger. 418 00:32:40,575 --> 00:32:43,970 [MUSIC PLAYING] 419 00:32:48,820 --> 00:32:50,950 After climbing the La Rambla, I was 420 00:32:50,950 --> 00:32:53,587 ready for the new challenge. 421 00:32:53,587 --> 00:32:57,790 [SPEAKING FRENCH] 422 00:32:57,792 --> 00:33:04,820 I've been living in the South of France, just a short drive 423 00:33:04,820 --> 00:33:07,290 away from the legendary climbing spot, Ceuse. 424 00:33:11,660 --> 00:33:16,580 Biographie is such a historic line, one of the most beautiful 425 00:33:16,580 --> 00:33:19,870 if not the most beautiful in the world. 426 00:33:19,870 --> 00:33:25,460 It's on a long crag at the top of a hill with an open view 427 00:33:25,460 --> 00:33:27,040 on the south of France. 428 00:33:27,040 --> 00:33:29,930 So the place is beautiful. 429 00:33:29,930 --> 00:33:35,480 I was three years old when Chris Sharma climbed Biographie. 430 00:33:35,480 --> 00:33:39,110 It was a huge deal, the first 5.15, 431 00:33:39,110 --> 00:33:41,730 the hardest climb in the world. 432 00:33:41,730 --> 00:33:44,189 Biographie was this futuristic project. 433 00:33:44,189 --> 00:33:45,980 You know, I wanted to try the next level up 434 00:33:45,980 --> 00:33:48,200 and see what I was capable of. 435 00:33:48,200 --> 00:33:52,890 Even Chris, he spent four summers to climb that route. 436 00:33:52,890 --> 00:33:57,060 And after Chris, it's a lot of long stories. 437 00:33:57,060 --> 00:34:00,640 The French guy, Sylvain Millet, he spent on it 438 00:34:00,640 --> 00:34:05,040 30 tries and eight years only focusing on that. 439 00:34:05,040 --> 00:34:08,660 A lot of very strong climbers spend a lot of time. 440 00:34:08,660 --> 00:34:12,800 It's such a challenge for so many climbers. 441 00:34:12,800 --> 00:34:15,760 You know with all of the history behind the line, 442 00:34:15,760 --> 00:34:19,070 it comes with a lot of weight. 443 00:34:19,070 --> 00:34:20,780 I was back in the states. 444 00:34:20,780 --> 00:34:23,450 Margo was already starting to try Biographie. 445 00:34:23,450 --> 00:34:25,030 And she convinced Daniel Woods and I 446 00:34:25,030 --> 00:34:26,872 to come project it with her. 447 00:34:26,872 --> 00:34:28,850 Wow. 448 00:34:28,850 --> 00:34:31,070 When Matty and I got there, Margo 449 00:34:31,070 --> 00:34:34,010 was going in deep with Biographie, 450 00:34:34,010 --> 00:34:36,650 already making good links. 451 00:34:36,650 --> 00:34:37,520 I was impressed. 452 00:34:37,520 --> 00:34:39,770 I mean, she was able to climb the first half 453 00:34:39,770 --> 00:34:41,420 of the route pretty easy. 454 00:34:44,460 --> 00:34:48,220 There are difficult sections throughout the route. 455 00:34:48,220 --> 00:34:51,780 It has all different aspects of sport climbing. 456 00:34:51,780 --> 00:34:55,289 Endurance is important but power is also important. 457 00:34:55,291 --> 00:34:58,260 It's powerful and delicate. 458 00:34:58,260 --> 00:35:01,680 It was impressive watching Margo on Biographie. 459 00:35:01,680 --> 00:35:06,090 She would fall on a section and immediately 460 00:35:06,090 --> 00:35:08,700 pull back up, latch onto the wall, 461 00:35:08,700 --> 00:35:10,240 and just rehearse the section. 462 00:35:10,240 --> 00:35:14,460 Take, lower, rehearse the same section again, 463 00:35:14,460 --> 00:35:18,020 until she just had every move ingrained into her system. 464 00:35:18,020 --> 00:35:21,916 [MUSIC PLAYING] 465 00:35:28,750 --> 00:35:33,840 At the top, that's when it's the make or break. 466 00:35:33,840 --> 00:35:36,090 You've already climbed 75, 80 feet. 467 00:35:38,960 --> 00:35:41,899 I go up right hand to a little crimp. 468 00:35:41,899 --> 00:35:44,450 Then I go left hand to a foot hold. 469 00:35:44,450 --> 00:35:47,239 Then I reach straight up. 470 00:35:47,239 --> 00:35:52,260 And I go out right to a pocket, which I really love, actually. 471 00:35:52,260 --> 00:35:56,399 And I reach out far left hand. 472 00:35:56,399 --> 00:36:00,750 The little bowling ball, the pocket with a thumb. 473 00:36:00,750 --> 00:36:03,589 This hold shuts down a lot of climbers. 474 00:36:03,589 --> 00:36:06,899 When Sharma was trying the first ascent, 475 00:36:06,899 --> 00:36:09,480 he fell here dozens of times, year after year. 476 00:36:14,399 --> 00:36:17,770 One time I actually got that left hand. 477 00:36:17,770 --> 00:36:18,596 Come on. 478 00:36:18,596 --> 00:36:19,416 Yes. 479 00:36:19,418 --> 00:36:21,854 Come on, Margo. 480 00:36:21,930 --> 00:36:25,470 I was so excited and then I was off. 481 00:36:25,470 --> 00:36:27,470 [YELLING] 482 00:36:27,470 --> 00:36:28,970 No. 483 00:36:28,970 --> 00:36:32,361 God, I was bleeding so bad. 484 00:36:32,515 --> 00:36:33,604 My hold was so good. 485 00:36:33,607 --> 00:36:34,380 That was it. 486 00:36:34,970 --> 00:36:36,770 She was bleeding all over the holds. 487 00:36:36,770 --> 00:36:41,830 I literally slipped on my own blood. 488 00:36:41,830 --> 00:36:43,770 But Margo, she never wants to rest. 489 00:36:43,770 --> 00:36:46,434 And she kept throwing herself at it. 490 00:36:46,789 --> 00:36:47,838 Take. 491 00:36:48,272 --> 00:36:51,266 I think I should rest my tendon. 492 00:36:51,266 --> 00:36:51,950 Does it hurt? 493 00:36:51,950 --> 00:36:52,921 Yeah. 494 00:36:52,927 --> 00:36:55,927 I'm just going to do this part and then be done. 495 00:36:56,300 --> 00:36:59,440 Matty and I tried to get Margo to slow down so she wouldn't 496 00:36:59,440 --> 00:37:00,770 get a long term injury. 497 00:37:00,770 --> 00:37:02,540 But she wouldn't listen. 498 00:37:02,540 --> 00:37:04,780 She just kept raging on the route. 499 00:37:04,780 --> 00:37:07,460 And could tell that just the way she was climbing on it, 500 00:37:07,460 --> 00:37:10,053 her finger was affecting her a lot. 501 00:37:11,779 --> 00:37:13,661 What the heck. 502 00:37:13,719 --> 00:37:14,760 Wait, you're lowering me? 503 00:37:14,760 --> 00:37:16,550 Yeah, I'm pulling rank. 504 00:37:20,390 --> 00:37:21,430 That was a winner. 505 00:37:24,710 --> 00:37:28,984 All of us worked Biographie for a month. 506 00:37:29,317 --> 00:37:30,074 Come on, Daniel. 507 00:37:30,075 --> 00:37:30,609 Try hard. 508 00:37:30,602 --> 00:37:35,860 Daniel and I got shut down, and we had to go home empty handed. 509 00:37:35,860 --> 00:37:39,560 But Margo, she just kept working it. 510 00:37:39,560 --> 00:37:43,340 Time went by and I took so many trips up to Ceuse 511 00:37:43,340 --> 00:37:44,900 that it's hard for me to count. 512 00:37:59,016 --> 00:37:59,978 Biographie. 513 00:37:59,974 --> 00:38:02,120 Good luck. 514 00:38:02,120 --> 00:38:05,680 It's much more difficult for me than La Rambla was. 515 00:38:05,680 --> 00:38:08,912 Physically, but mostly mentally. 516 00:38:08,913 --> 00:38:09,918 No. 517 00:38:11,551 --> 00:38:12,050 Shit. 518 00:38:12,050 --> 00:38:13,700 I think that this period for Margo 519 00:38:13,700 --> 00:38:17,790 was a period of exploration. 520 00:38:17,790 --> 00:38:24,950 OK, I've done 5.15, but then questioning where her limit is. 521 00:38:24,950 --> 00:38:29,540 To her, it's not about the great 5.15, 522 00:38:29,540 --> 00:38:32,990 not about being the first woman. 523 00:38:32,990 --> 00:38:37,422 It's just about pushing herself. 524 00:38:37,422 --> 00:38:40,218 [YELLING] 525 00:38:42,560 --> 00:38:45,440 Some days I'm at home and then I have the telescope. 526 00:38:45,440 --> 00:38:48,020 When someone try Biographie, I go and see. 527 00:38:50,670 --> 00:38:55,230 When Margo come for this, I'm very curious. 528 00:38:55,230 --> 00:38:58,410 I was fortunate enough with Biographie 529 00:38:58,410 --> 00:39:00,210 to have a really great mentor, Arnaud 530 00:39:00,210 --> 00:39:03,520 Petit, a legendary climber here in France. 531 00:39:03,520 --> 00:39:07,650 I've not seen someone walking that hard a route. 532 00:39:07,650 --> 00:39:09,240 She's inspiring. 533 00:39:09,240 --> 00:39:12,010 She's really focused on what she does. 534 00:39:12,010 --> 00:39:16,451 But she gives a lot, maybe too much some times. 535 00:39:18,510 --> 00:39:20,722 It's raining out there right now. 536 00:39:22,140 --> 00:39:23,910 I mean, it's definitely-- it's not ideal 537 00:39:23,910 --> 00:39:26,140 but that doesn't mean it can't happen. 538 00:39:26,140 --> 00:39:29,250 The route's wet, it's dripping down the wall. 539 00:39:29,250 --> 00:39:32,370 If the route's wet, that just doesn't really-- 540 00:39:32,370 --> 00:39:34,260 you can't really climb hard when it's wet. 541 00:39:34,260 --> 00:39:36,826 But yeah, she's psyched. 542 00:39:36,826 --> 00:39:37,590 I don't get it. 543 00:40:01,796 --> 00:40:02,820 No, it's OK. 544 00:40:02,820 --> 00:40:05,030 I tried. 545 00:40:05,030 --> 00:40:07,130 I don't know, I'm glad I came up today. 546 00:40:09,299 --> 00:40:09,919 We'll see. 547 00:40:18,090 --> 00:40:20,489 Margo's biggest weakness is she just 548 00:40:20,489 --> 00:40:22,072 has a hard time turning the light out. 549 00:40:24,249 --> 00:40:25,790 The biggest wish and the biggest hope 550 00:40:25,790 --> 00:40:27,373 I'll always have for Margo is that she 551 00:40:27,373 --> 00:40:32,340 can find a balance between being so driven and having fun. 552 00:40:36,290 --> 00:40:41,120 I learned a lot from Margo, a way to be positive, 553 00:40:41,120 --> 00:40:44,330 to be better for the next days. 554 00:40:44,330 --> 00:40:50,150 And this state of mind she has is quite incredible, I think. 555 00:40:50,150 --> 00:40:53,249 Margo, she has no limit. 556 00:40:53,269 --> 00:40:57,719 She's training like a beast, like training, training. 557 00:40:58,060 --> 00:40:59,282 People say, who's she? 558 00:40:59,282 --> 00:41:00,380 Who is this girl? 559 00:41:08,180 --> 00:41:10,790 I guess this climb means a lot to me. 560 00:41:10,790 --> 00:41:14,320 I think that Biographie is kind of a metaphor for life. 561 00:41:14,320 --> 00:41:17,472 But the climb doesn't come easily 562 00:41:18,419 --> 00:41:21,188 and you have to put the work in. 563 00:41:21,629 --> 00:41:23,624 You have to stay present and in the moment. 564 00:41:31,050 --> 00:41:36,567 It's definitely teaching me patience and letting go. 565 00:41:36,875 --> 00:41:41,202 And coming back fearless. 566 00:41:46,882 --> 00:41:51,301 [WIND BLOWING] 567 00:42:00,630 --> 00:42:03,035 Come on, Margo. 568 00:42:04,058 --> 00:42:05,021 Yes, come on. 569 00:42:05,021 --> 00:42:05,521 Come on. 570 00:42:07,504 --> 00:42:08,486 Come on, get it right. 571 00:42:08,486 --> 00:42:10,574 Come on, nice. 572 00:42:10,579 --> 00:42:11,803 Yes. 573 00:42:11,804 --> 00:42:12,790 Come on. 574 00:42:12,799 --> 00:42:13,778 Come on. 575 00:42:14,163 --> 00:42:14,663 Nice. 576 00:42:14,663 --> 00:42:16,635 Come on, do it! 577 00:42:16,635 --> 00:42:18,607 Come on. 578 00:42:18,607 --> 00:42:22,058 Come on, do it. 579 00:42:22,058 --> 00:42:24,523 Yes, come on. 580 00:42:24,523 --> 00:42:26,002 Come on. 581 00:42:26,002 --> 00:42:26,822 Come on. 582 00:42:26,831 --> 00:42:28,050 Concentrate. 583 00:42:31,960 --> 00:42:37,270 When you break through and when you do make it happen. 584 00:42:37,270 --> 00:42:38,120 Come on. 585 00:42:38,465 --> 00:42:40,171 Yes, come on. 586 00:42:40,176 --> 00:42:42,670 [CHEERING] 587 00:42:47,590 --> 00:42:51,420 It's this feeling that you can't really describe, 588 00:42:51,420 --> 00:42:54,582 like kind of getting emotional. 589 00:42:54,582 --> 00:42:58,068 [MUSIC PLAYING] 590 00:42:59,064 --> 00:43:03,048 [CHEERING] 591 00:43:08,028 --> 00:43:13,008 [MUSIC PLAYING] 592 00:44:10,340 --> 00:44:12,270 All right, I'm going for it. 593 00:44:12,704 --> 00:44:13,204 Climbing. 594 00:44:26,558 --> 00:44:27,058 Fuck. 595 00:44:33,308 --> 00:44:35,735 Antoine, I've been better. 596 00:44:36,151 --> 00:44:39,240 I'm calling because I took a little fall climbing. 597 00:44:39,246 --> 00:44:39,926 I'm in the hospital. 598 00:44:40,557 --> 00:44:41,621 I'm not going to make it to work. 599 00:44:44,325 --> 00:44:45,700 I got kind of banged up. 600 00:44:45,700 --> 00:44:47,205 I don't know how serious it is. 601 00:44:47,205 --> 00:44:48,195 Climbing sucks. 602 00:44:51,165 --> 00:44:52,810 I have to get an x-ray. 603 00:44:52,810 --> 00:44:54,840 But I'll keep you updated for sure. 604 00:44:54,840 --> 00:44:57,260 But you know, obviously I can't come in today. 605 00:44:57,260 --> 00:44:58,500 OK, thank you. 606 00:44:58,500 --> 00:45:00,460 Bye. 607 00:45:00,460 --> 00:45:03,890 [MUSIC PLAYING] 608 00:45:15,650 --> 00:45:21,420 Yeah, I know this makes it look really, really serious. 609 00:45:21,420 --> 00:45:23,422 No, that does make it look really bad. 610 00:45:23,427 --> 00:45:25,002 I'm gonna die! 611 00:45:25,186 --> 00:45:26,818 Oh, man, dude. 612 00:45:26,818 --> 00:45:29,360 Yeah, it was a bummer, the cam blew. 613 00:45:29,478 --> 00:45:33,539 Fucking, dude, two cams-- 614 00:45:33,539 --> 00:45:34,918 Just one cam. 615 00:45:35,049 --> 00:45:37,898 I don't know, like mostly the back's kind of what I'm worried 616 00:45:37,910 --> 00:45:39,740 about the most, probably. 617 00:45:39,740 --> 00:45:43,880 Brad has been on my radar for a long time, really good rock 618 00:45:43,880 --> 00:45:45,320 climber, really strong. 619 00:45:45,320 --> 00:45:47,090 But I think what makes him unique 620 00:45:47,090 --> 00:45:50,240 is his boldness and commitment, kind of this lost 621 00:45:50,240 --> 00:45:53,390 world of dangerous climbing. 622 00:45:53,390 --> 00:45:54,500 My name's Brad Gobright. 623 00:45:54,500 --> 00:45:56,020 I'm 27 years old. 624 00:45:56,020 --> 00:45:58,190 I started climbing when I was seven years old. 625 00:45:58,190 --> 00:46:01,070 I dropped out of college my first year and sort of just 626 00:46:01,070 --> 00:46:03,230 been a dirt bag, traveling dirt bag ever since. 627 00:46:10,712 --> 00:46:11,474 Oh, glory! 628 00:46:11,662 --> 00:46:15,170 I mean, I wouldn't be where I am with climbing today, you know, 629 00:46:15,170 --> 00:46:17,460 if I hadn't done that. 630 00:46:17,460 --> 00:46:21,329 I lived in the boulders up in Yosemite for months at a time. 631 00:46:21,328 --> 00:46:23,315 Wait, do you want to drink lighter fluid, though? 632 00:46:28,550 --> 00:46:30,390 Brad had like two shirts when we met him. 633 00:46:30,390 --> 00:46:33,672 And then Christmas came and he got another shirt. 634 00:46:33,662 --> 00:46:34,831 I was like, oh, whoa. 635 00:46:34,820 --> 00:46:37,260 It's a third shirt. 636 00:46:37,260 --> 00:46:40,982 His car is not what I would call nice or even good. 637 00:46:42,435 --> 00:46:44,560 His car is a piece of shit, but it gets him around. 638 00:46:56,970 --> 00:46:58,330 I didn't have a lot of money. 639 00:46:58,330 --> 00:47:00,990 My goal is to work as little as possible 640 00:47:00,990 --> 00:47:03,355 and climb as much as I could. 641 00:47:03,355 --> 00:47:04,690 It looks so good. 642 00:47:04,690 --> 00:47:07,420 It's just calling to me. 643 00:47:07,441 --> 00:47:10,943 Brad was getting really good but he was also sketchy. 644 00:47:14,690 --> 00:47:16,900 I have not seen that many climbers like Brad. 645 00:47:16,900 --> 00:47:19,840 He's a freaking strong climber and has 646 00:47:19,840 --> 00:47:22,100 an amazing head for climbing. 647 00:47:22,100 --> 00:47:24,130 All right, this is a bad idea. 648 00:47:24,130 --> 00:47:26,450 Brad definitely qualifies into that category 649 00:47:26,450 --> 00:47:27,970 of one of those people you've never 650 00:47:27,970 --> 00:47:30,160 heard of that's stronger than all the people 651 00:47:30,160 --> 00:47:31,432 that you have heard of. 652 00:47:31,439 --> 00:47:33,310 Dude, it's so wet. 653 00:47:36,823 --> 00:47:39,904 Oh, man, that would have been big. 654 00:47:44,080 --> 00:47:46,060 All right, yeah, grab your shit. 655 00:47:46,080 --> 00:47:47,991 Why are we up so early, Cedar? 656 00:47:48,000 --> 00:47:52,020 We're up so early because Brad is what I call over stoker. 657 00:47:52,020 --> 00:47:55,440 Yeah, I sort of just zone out on everything except for climbing. 658 00:47:55,440 --> 00:47:59,050 Yeah, Brad's over stoker. 659 00:47:59,050 --> 00:48:01,520 Some link ups, do a lot of climbing. 660 00:48:01,520 --> 00:48:03,196 Got to get ready for the spring. 661 00:48:03,196 --> 00:48:07,570 Yeah, I got to get ready for sleep. 662 00:48:07,570 --> 00:48:09,510 Brad's beyond stoked, for sure. 663 00:48:09,510 --> 00:48:11,760 He has these big goals and he really wants to do them. 664 00:48:11,760 --> 00:48:14,650 So he puts a lot of pressure on himself to make that happen. 665 00:48:14,650 --> 00:48:17,280 Goes out to Eldo and dispatches every single one 666 00:48:17,280 --> 00:48:19,520 of the scariest, hardest routes on the Rincon wall. 667 00:48:19,520 --> 00:48:21,270 Most climbers are really psyched to send 668 00:48:21,270 --> 00:48:22,934 one of those routes in a day. 669 00:48:22,934 --> 00:48:26,322 [MUSIC PLAYING] 670 00:48:32,130 --> 00:48:34,084 The routes are R rated. 671 00:48:34,084 --> 00:48:35,750 You can break your legs on some of them. 672 00:48:35,750 --> 00:48:39,020 Not most people's idea of a fun day out at the crag. 673 00:48:43,820 --> 00:48:46,490 All right, up here with the Brad Gobright, 674 00:48:46,490 --> 00:48:50,420 doing what I like to do most, hanging out with men 675 00:48:50,420 --> 00:48:53,570 in their underwear at the crag. 676 00:48:53,570 --> 00:48:55,492 Brad freaking forgot his shorts. 677 00:48:55,492 --> 00:48:57,200 But he wasn't going to let that stop him. 678 00:48:57,200 --> 00:48:58,991 He just like stripped down to his skivvies, 679 00:48:58,991 --> 00:49:01,550 put his knee pad on, and got on the most dangerous route 680 00:49:01,550 --> 00:49:02,936 of the day. 681 00:49:02,936 --> 00:49:06,422 [MUSIC PLAYING] 682 00:49:27,163 --> 00:49:31,026 Come on, get it. 683 00:49:31,026 --> 00:49:32,730 Oh, fuck. 684 00:49:32,730 --> 00:49:33,820 Dude, that was so nasty. 685 00:49:33,820 --> 00:49:35,430 Oh, that wouldn't have held. 686 00:49:35,430 --> 00:49:37,688 Shit, dude. 687 00:49:37,688 --> 00:49:38,380 Nice, dude. 688 00:49:38,380 --> 00:49:39,722 You didn't break your leg. 689 00:49:39,722 --> 00:49:41,450 Psyched. 690 00:49:41,450 --> 00:49:43,096 It's not over. 691 00:49:43,096 --> 00:49:46,041 Nice, dude, but don't fuck it up. 692 00:49:46,527 --> 00:49:47,026 Sweet. 693 00:49:49,230 --> 00:49:50,115 Yeah. 694 00:49:50,115 --> 00:49:51,570 All right. 695 00:49:51,570 --> 00:49:52,960 Yeah, trendsetter. 696 00:49:52,960 --> 00:49:55,020 You wear boxers, too, not even boxer briefs. 697 00:49:55,020 --> 00:49:56,540 Right, they make my balls itch. 698 00:49:56,540 --> 00:49:59,950 I like to just kind of let it hang. 699 00:49:59,950 --> 00:50:02,690 That guy has climbed so many impressive climbs. 700 00:50:02,690 --> 00:50:08,270 But even more impressive is his ropeless climbing. 701 00:50:08,270 --> 00:50:09,680 Brad's a full solo climber. 702 00:50:09,680 --> 00:50:13,550 I mean, he's been soloing for years. 703 00:50:13,550 --> 00:50:16,360 I mean, there's just very clear, obvious consequences 704 00:50:16,360 --> 00:50:17,980 if you mess up on a solo. 705 00:50:17,980 --> 00:50:19,056 It's pretty clear cut. 706 00:50:19,056 --> 00:50:20,180 You either send or you die. 707 00:50:29,900 --> 00:50:31,410 I do experience fear. 708 00:50:31,410 --> 00:50:34,470 But I've learned to deal with it when I'm up there. 709 00:50:40,390 --> 00:50:42,370 Getting to the point where I'm like 100% 710 00:50:42,370 --> 00:50:44,440 certain I can do it without falling, 711 00:50:44,440 --> 00:50:45,850 that's very satisfying. 712 00:50:54,160 --> 00:50:55,720 How do you feel, Brad? 713 00:50:55,720 --> 00:50:57,710 Oh, such a good climb. 714 00:50:57,710 --> 00:50:59,550 This is what climbing is all about. 715 00:50:59,550 --> 00:51:02,620 Doesn't get much better than that. 716 00:51:02,620 --> 00:51:05,650 The only other person out there that's doing the solos like him 717 00:51:05,650 --> 00:51:08,339 is Alex Honnold. 718 00:51:08,355 --> 00:51:10,713 If I was on a deserted island with Brad Gobright, 719 00:51:10,717 --> 00:51:12,300 I would let him have sex with me, yes. 720 00:51:14,960 --> 00:51:18,470 Everybody knows who Honnold, Yosemite's best free soloist. 721 00:51:18,470 --> 00:51:20,810 Probably the most famous climber in the world. 722 00:51:20,810 --> 00:51:23,570 Brad, on the other hand, not famous, poor, 723 00:51:23,570 --> 00:51:25,670 and solos in a scrappy little climbing area 724 00:51:25,670 --> 00:51:27,260 called Eldorado canyon. 725 00:51:27,260 --> 00:51:29,360 Which is funny because it's like a climbing area 726 00:51:29,360 --> 00:51:30,865 that a lot of people hate. 727 00:51:30,865 --> 00:51:33,600 [YELLING] 728 00:51:33,600 --> 00:51:35,003 It is scary. 729 00:51:37,874 --> 00:51:38,982 I hit my head. 730 00:51:38,990 --> 00:51:39,800 It's run out. 731 00:51:39,800 --> 00:51:40,820 It's sandbagged. 732 00:51:40,820 --> 00:51:42,600 You go there thinking you can climb 5.11 733 00:51:42,600 --> 00:51:44,727 and then you can barely get up 5.9. 734 00:51:49,100 --> 00:51:51,490 Holy fuck. 735 00:51:51,490 --> 00:51:53,220 I don't look at Eldo and think, like, 736 00:51:53,220 --> 00:51:54,720 that's a place I want to go soloing. 737 00:51:59,470 --> 00:52:01,976 It's not like Yosemite where it's like a splitter crack, 738 00:52:01,976 --> 00:52:03,850 you know, and you're locked in on every move. 739 00:52:03,850 --> 00:52:07,510 You're on these faces, exposed, doing hard moves 740 00:52:07,510 --> 00:52:09,060 that are irreversible. 741 00:52:09,060 --> 00:52:12,040 Once you do a section, you're not going to down climb anymore. 742 00:52:12,040 --> 00:52:13,926 It gives you the heebie jeebies, doesn't it? 743 00:52:13,926 --> 00:52:16,050 It's like, my hands are sweating thinking about it. 744 00:52:21,730 --> 00:52:26,290 One of the reasons I like Eldo, it's a little exciting. 745 00:52:26,290 --> 00:52:28,010 There's just an element of insecurity 746 00:52:28,010 --> 00:52:31,520 that makes the soloing a lot more serious and therefore 747 00:52:31,520 --> 00:52:33,030 a lot more impressive. 748 00:52:33,030 --> 00:52:35,450 I mean, to me, they seem pretty hard and pretty scary. 749 00:52:35,450 --> 00:52:37,010 And I find Eldo in general to feel 750 00:52:37,010 --> 00:52:39,050 really slippery and insecure. 751 00:52:39,050 --> 00:52:44,210 For many years, the hardest solo in Eldo was The Naked Edge. 752 00:52:44,210 --> 00:52:48,230 And for Brad, it's an afternoon romp. 753 00:52:48,230 --> 00:52:50,000 You know, I can do The Naked Edge house 754 00:52:50,000 --> 00:52:52,220 to house in under an hour. 755 00:52:52,220 --> 00:52:54,890 He's like soloed The Edge over 25 times. 756 00:52:54,890 --> 00:52:56,740 He's soloed The Naked Edge 25 times? 757 00:52:56,740 --> 00:52:57,920 Are you for real? 758 00:52:57,920 --> 00:52:58,700 Yeah. 759 00:52:58,700 --> 00:53:00,126 That's fucked up. 760 00:53:00,126 --> 00:53:03,402 [MUSIC PLAYING] 761 00:53:06,069 --> 00:53:08,610 Almost like a playground, you know, you can go from one route 762 00:53:08,610 --> 00:53:09,690 to the next. 763 00:53:09,690 --> 00:53:12,850 Brad is the best soloist in the history of Eldo. 764 00:53:23,500 --> 00:53:26,054 Why haven't most people have heard of Brad Gobright? 765 00:53:26,054 --> 00:53:27,970 I would say most people haven't heard of Brad. 766 00:53:27,970 --> 00:53:30,906 He's definitely a bit of a dark horse, kind of underdog. 767 00:53:33,130 --> 00:53:35,350 You know, like he barely has any sponsors. 768 00:53:35,350 --> 00:53:36,650 Nobody knows who he is, really. 769 00:53:36,650 --> 00:53:38,108 I mean, even though he's definitely 770 00:53:38,108 --> 00:53:40,690 one of the more talented climbers in the country. 771 00:53:40,690 --> 00:53:43,060 It's like rock climbing is becoming an actual sport. 772 00:53:43,060 --> 00:53:45,500 Like Honnold's got his own book. 773 00:53:45,500 --> 00:53:46,300 There it is. 774 00:53:46,300 --> 00:53:48,887 That's pretty pro right there. 775 00:53:48,887 --> 00:53:50,970 I don't want to pay for it, so I'm just reading it 776 00:53:50,970 --> 00:53:53,242 here in the bookstore. 777 00:53:53,242 --> 00:53:54,700 If I didn't exist it would be like, 778 00:53:54,700 --> 00:53:56,410 oh, rad, like nobody else is really soloing hard 779 00:53:56,410 --> 00:53:57,659 like that in the US right now. 780 00:53:57,659 --> 00:53:58,709 Like that's pretty cool. 781 00:53:58,709 --> 00:54:00,250 But it's just sort of unlucky for him 782 00:54:00,250 --> 00:54:02,370 that I've already kind of stolen some of that. 783 00:54:02,370 --> 00:54:03,210 Yeah. 784 00:54:03,210 --> 00:54:07,120 I'll give him a free pair of shoes as a consolation prize. 785 00:54:07,120 --> 00:54:09,370 Honnold doesn't feel feelings as far as I'm concerned. 786 00:54:09,370 --> 00:54:12,120 But maybe Brad's similar, actually. 787 00:54:12,120 --> 00:54:13,620 Maybe they're just two and the same. 788 00:54:19,070 --> 00:54:20,652 I mean, there's at least some chance 789 00:54:20,652 --> 00:54:23,110 that most higher end soloists have some kind of personality 790 00:54:23,110 --> 00:54:23,740 disorder. 791 00:54:23,740 --> 00:54:25,365 But the thing is, everybody has quirks. 792 00:54:25,365 --> 00:54:27,980 Like everyone has something going on with their life. 793 00:54:27,980 --> 00:54:29,660 Brad is a quirky guy. 794 00:54:29,660 --> 00:54:31,850 He's not what I would call pro climber material. 795 00:54:31,850 --> 00:54:33,720 My name's, uh, Brad Gobright. 796 00:54:33,720 --> 00:54:35,195 I'm a Blue Water athlete. 797 00:54:35,195 --> 00:54:38,546 I was using the 9.7 Lighting-- 798 00:54:38,546 --> 00:54:40,510 [BLEEP] 799 00:54:40,510 --> 00:54:42,050 He's short, goofy looking. 800 00:54:42,050 --> 00:54:44,200 I wouldn't call him wildly handsome. 801 00:54:44,200 --> 00:54:46,350 Oh, pink is my favorite color, so-- 802 00:54:46,350 --> 00:54:47,610 He's no Sharma, you know? 803 00:54:47,610 --> 00:54:50,000 There there's no, like, waving glorious hair 804 00:54:50,000 --> 00:54:52,430 in the perfect light as he like, dah-dah! 805 00:54:52,430 --> 00:54:54,080 I would call him socially awkward. 806 00:54:54,080 --> 00:54:57,230 Totally destroyed Cedar's toilet. 807 00:54:57,230 --> 00:54:58,810 I would call his eating habits poor. 808 00:54:58,810 --> 00:55:00,518 Fruit loop donuts, have you seen those? 809 00:55:00,518 --> 00:55:02,270 He ate an entire apple pie one time. 810 00:55:02,270 --> 00:55:04,850 I watched him devour an entire apple pie 811 00:55:04,850 --> 00:55:06,389 in like a matter of 10 minutes. 812 00:55:06,389 --> 00:55:08,930 He's the kind of guy that shows up to the crag with a donut. 813 00:55:08,930 --> 00:55:11,300 Old fashioned glazed, they didn't have sprinkles. 814 00:55:11,300 --> 00:55:14,570 I'm like, dude, that's gnarly. 815 00:55:14,570 --> 00:55:17,400 I forgot my glazed croissant. 816 00:55:17,400 --> 00:55:20,040 Brad is climbing at a super high level, whereas, you know, 817 00:55:20,040 --> 00:55:21,870 his life situation, not so much. 818 00:55:21,870 --> 00:55:24,630 I got to be at work at 4:00 to bus tables. 819 00:55:24,630 --> 00:55:29,280 Putting table cloths on tables for rich people. 820 00:55:29,280 --> 00:55:30,531 Oh yeah, he's a great climber. 821 00:55:30,531 --> 00:55:32,530 But then it's like everything else, you're like, 822 00:55:32,530 --> 00:55:33,678 dude, what are you doing? 823 00:55:33,678 --> 00:55:35,011 Oh, how did I forget that? 824 00:55:35,011 --> 00:55:35,510 Man. 825 00:55:35,510 --> 00:55:37,880 Oh man, you forgot the rack or you tied the rope in a knot 826 00:55:37,880 --> 00:55:38,280 again. 827 00:55:38,280 --> 00:55:39,571 It's like, what the heck, dude? 828 00:55:39,571 --> 00:55:41,415 It's like I just put it in my pack. 829 00:55:41,415 --> 00:55:44,000 I must have put it on top of my jacket. 830 00:55:44,000 --> 00:55:45,530 How can you be such a Space Cadet? 831 00:55:45,530 --> 00:55:46,920 Like, what is wrong with you? 832 00:55:46,920 --> 00:55:48,930 This is what Honnold's talking about, Brad. 833 00:55:48,930 --> 00:55:50,270 Oh, I've got to get it together. 834 00:55:50,270 --> 00:55:54,360 Yeah, this is not the mark of a professional, dude. 835 00:55:54,360 --> 00:55:56,720 It's actually a good argument for soloing. 836 00:55:56,720 --> 00:56:01,630 You just have to remember your shoes and your chalk bag. 837 00:56:01,630 --> 00:56:03,005 There's so much less to remember. 838 00:56:11,250 --> 00:56:14,450 So I am going to rappel down the Doub-Griffith. 839 00:56:14,450 --> 00:56:19,590 Thought I'd rap down, rope solo it a bit, see how it feels. 840 00:56:19,590 --> 00:56:21,740 There's a reason that the Doub-Griffith has never 841 00:56:21,740 --> 00:56:22,930 been soloed. 842 00:56:22,930 --> 00:56:25,820 It's really technical and powerful. 843 00:56:25,820 --> 00:56:27,590 There's like thin, thin holds. 844 00:56:27,590 --> 00:56:30,020 And there's like parts the climb where you can't really 845 00:56:30,020 --> 00:56:32,040 back off. 846 00:56:32,040 --> 00:56:35,100 I'm not going to deny that it's not a dangerous activity. 847 00:56:35,100 --> 00:56:35,860 It is. 848 00:56:35,860 --> 00:56:37,410 But I love free soloing. 849 00:56:37,410 --> 00:56:40,550 And it's just kind of about the beauty and simplicity of moving 850 00:56:40,550 --> 00:56:42,506 up a rock wall all by yourself. 851 00:56:47,400 --> 00:56:50,732 I think in the beginning there's always kind of the butterflies, 852 00:56:50,732 --> 00:56:52,190 and then they kind of just go away. 853 00:57:05,210 --> 00:57:08,270 By the time I'm like in the middle of it all, I'm just 100% 854 00:57:08,270 --> 00:57:10,584 focused and into that little bubble. 855 00:57:10,584 --> 00:57:12,500 You're not really being distracted by anything 856 00:57:12,500 --> 00:57:17,390 else other than like the few moves in front of you. 857 00:57:17,390 --> 00:57:21,390 [MUSIC PLAYING] 858 00:57:41,390 --> 00:57:43,580 Occasionally there are these like harder climbs, 859 00:57:43,580 --> 00:57:45,050 like the Doub-Griffith. 860 00:57:45,050 --> 00:57:47,630 Those aren't routes I'd be soloing all the time or even 861 00:57:47,630 --> 00:57:48,270 a second time. 862 00:57:54,020 --> 00:57:57,855 It's a next level solo for Eldorado Canyon, and really 863 00:57:57,855 --> 00:58:00,500 a next level solo for soloing in general. 864 00:58:05,280 --> 00:58:06,910 Brad had started reading the comments, 865 00:58:06,910 --> 00:58:08,190 you know, on Facebook. 866 00:58:08,190 --> 00:58:09,550 That's always a mistake. 867 00:58:09,550 --> 00:58:10,680 Can't read that shit. 868 00:58:15,844 --> 00:58:17,260 I think what a lot of people don't 869 00:58:17,260 --> 00:58:22,030 see is all the time and dedication and mileage 870 00:58:22,030 --> 00:58:24,070 it took to get to this point. 871 00:58:24,070 --> 00:58:25,960 I personally feel like Brad falls 872 00:58:25,960 --> 00:58:27,335 closer to my end of the spectrum, 873 00:58:27,335 --> 00:58:29,085 where he is just sort of rational about it 874 00:58:29,085 --> 00:58:30,110 like, oh, I can do this. 875 00:58:30,110 --> 00:58:30,901 I feel comfortable. 876 00:58:30,901 --> 00:58:32,620 So I'll just do it. 877 00:58:32,620 --> 00:58:35,380 A lot of people don't really get the whole free soloing thing. 878 00:58:35,380 --> 00:58:39,490 But all I can say is that I feel really solid up there. 879 00:58:39,490 --> 00:58:42,100 You know, you're 100% focused. 880 00:58:42,100 --> 00:58:44,320 But I think a lot of times when people get on a rope, 881 00:58:44,320 --> 00:58:45,403 they let their guard down. 882 00:58:49,949 --> 00:58:51,822 Come on. 883 00:58:57,934 --> 00:58:59,890 That's liked a fucked up fall. 884 00:58:59,890 --> 00:59:03,451 Brad had been trying this 5.14r called Viceroy on Top Rope, 885 00:59:03,451 --> 00:59:05,700 probably one of the most difficult and dangerous trad 886 00:59:05,700 --> 00:59:07,110 climbs in the country. 887 00:59:07,110 --> 00:59:08,910 Basically, there's just one more day 888 00:59:08,910 --> 00:59:10,508 to climb it before a huge storm was 889 00:59:10,508 --> 00:59:12,174 going to come in and shut down the route 890 00:59:12,174 --> 00:59:13,467 for the entire season. 891 00:59:13,467 --> 00:59:15,300 But I just figured, you know, what the hell. 892 00:59:15,300 --> 00:59:15,925 I'll go for it. 893 00:59:43,534 --> 00:59:44,522 Fuck. 894 00:59:44,522 --> 00:59:45,998 Fuck. 895 00:59:45,998 --> 00:59:46,498 Oh. 896 00:59:56,390 --> 00:59:58,669 There was like 20 minutes of panic. 897 00:59:58,669 --> 01:00:00,960 I'd never broken my back before, but I knew right away. 898 01:00:00,960 --> 01:00:02,210 I was like, oh yeah, it broke. 899 01:00:02,210 --> 01:00:06,576 [MUSIC PLAYING] 900 01:00:25,678 --> 01:00:27,192 Yeah. 901 01:00:27,850 --> 01:00:31,121 Just got hasty and I just went for it. 902 01:00:31,139 --> 01:00:34,445 We brought you chocolate covered peanut butter things. 903 01:00:34,445 --> 01:00:36,790 I don't know if you're allowed to have any. 904 01:00:36,790 --> 01:00:39,730 When Brad broke his back, it was shocking. 905 01:00:39,730 --> 01:00:42,950 My first concern was, you know, is he going to recover from it? 906 01:00:42,950 --> 01:00:45,370 Like how serious is the damage? 907 01:00:45,370 --> 01:00:48,250 Brad had two compression fractures in his back, 908 01:00:48,250 --> 01:00:49,342 broke his ankle. 909 01:00:49,342 --> 01:00:50,800 You know, before the accident, Brad 910 01:00:50,800 --> 01:00:51,980 was at the top of his game. 911 01:01:03,812 --> 01:01:04,320 Yeah. 912 01:01:04,320 --> 01:01:09,882 As it turns out, crutches and a back brace are not a fun combo. 913 01:01:09,882 --> 01:01:11,230 Oh yeah. 914 01:01:11,230 --> 01:01:13,910 Climbing is the most important thing in my life. 915 01:01:13,910 --> 01:01:15,857 So when I got injured, it was tough. 916 01:01:15,857 --> 01:01:18,190 There wasn't much for me to do because rock climbing was 917 01:01:18,190 --> 01:01:20,000 really all that I did. 918 01:01:20,000 --> 01:01:21,620 So here we are. 919 01:01:21,620 --> 01:01:23,804 Brad's, like, unbridled enthusiasm 920 01:01:23,804 --> 01:01:25,220 is what makes him a great climber. 921 01:01:25,220 --> 01:01:27,890 But it's also, I think, why he sometimes injures himself. 922 01:01:27,890 --> 01:01:32,860 He just gets so stoked that maybe he doesn't think things 923 01:01:32,860 --> 01:01:33,850 through enough. 924 01:01:33,850 --> 01:01:36,360 And that's definitely what happened on Viceroy. 925 01:01:36,360 --> 01:01:39,739 Damn, should have backed up that cam. 926 01:01:39,739 --> 01:01:42,072 Or I should have just stuck the move and sent the route. 927 01:01:42,072 --> 01:01:43,960 That would have been better. 928 01:01:43,960 --> 01:01:46,690 Being so stoked that you do something stupid 929 01:01:46,690 --> 01:01:50,176 is one of the dangers of loving climbing that much. 930 01:01:50,176 --> 01:01:54,064 [MUSIC PLAYING] 931 01:02:00,400 --> 01:02:04,060 I would say in the last 12 years, 932 01:02:04,060 --> 01:02:06,820 climbing and climbers have changed a lot. 933 01:02:06,820 --> 01:02:10,210 I think that nowadays you're getting these really strong, 934 01:02:10,210 --> 01:02:13,140 really timid climbers. 935 01:02:13,140 --> 01:02:15,330 People are afraid to run it out. 936 01:02:15,330 --> 01:02:17,790 They're afraid to take risks because they learn 937 01:02:17,790 --> 01:02:21,390 to climb in a climbing gym where everything is super safe 938 01:02:21,390 --> 01:02:24,180 and Brad Gobright is the antidote 939 01:02:24,180 --> 01:02:27,415 to that in a lot of ways. 940 01:02:27,415 --> 01:02:28,750 Let's do it. 941 01:02:28,750 --> 01:02:31,300 I've definitely been getting weird looks in the gym. 942 01:02:31,300 --> 01:02:33,400 You know, like, oh man, what happened to that guy? 943 01:02:33,400 --> 01:02:34,510 He didn't just break his back, he 944 01:02:34,510 --> 01:02:35,718 broke his ankle and his back. 945 01:02:38,631 --> 01:02:39,130 [BLEEP] 946 01:02:39,130 --> 01:02:42,210 See, this is what sucks about having a back brace 947 01:02:42,210 --> 01:02:43,170 and crutches. 948 01:02:48,930 --> 01:02:50,830 I just like picturing him, you know, just 949 01:02:50,830 --> 01:02:52,115 hanging from like a little crimp. 950 01:02:52,115 --> 01:02:54,950 And all the sudden, click, and he's like paralyzed for life. 951 01:02:54,950 --> 01:02:57,660 Good news is like in a month from now, 952 01:02:57,660 --> 01:03:00,310 my fingers will be the strongest they've ever been. 953 01:03:00,310 --> 01:03:04,361 The bad news is that I'll be terrified to rock climb. 954 01:03:04,361 --> 01:03:08,337 Trad climbing will be way scary. 955 01:03:13,820 --> 01:03:16,970 When you have an accident like Brad had, 956 01:03:16,970 --> 01:03:19,370 it's really hard, not only just to recover 957 01:03:19,370 --> 01:03:21,170 physically but mentally. 958 01:03:21,170 --> 01:03:22,910 You know, especially someone like Brad 959 01:03:22,910 --> 01:03:25,721 who was really at this outer level in boldness. 960 01:03:29,082 --> 01:03:32,090 I was still like a little nervous about tweaking my back. 961 01:03:32,090 --> 01:03:35,930 And I felt very mentally out of shape. 962 01:03:35,930 --> 01:03:37,730 But it was really important to me 963 01:03:37,730 --> 01:03:39,620 that I made a full recovery because I still 964 01:03:39,620 --> 01:03:41,210 had some big goals in climbing. 965 01:03:44,200 --> 01:03:47,200 I mean, that's the thing I love about Brad is his commitment. 966 01:03:47,200 --> 01:03:49,970 He's more committed than any other climber 967 01:03:49,970 --> 01:03:51,340 I know of right now. 968 01:03:51,340 --> 01:03:53,383 He's more obsessed than anybody. 969 01:04:00,750 --> 01:04:03,255 At that point in time, coming back from my injury, 970 01:04:03,255 --> 01:04:05,130 the thought of soloing something hard in Eldo 971 01:04:05,130 --> 01:04:07,405 seemed very unlikely. 972 01:04:10,080 --> 01:04:12,450 I went up there by myself. 973 01:04:12,450 --> 01:04:15,070 There was like pretty much no one in the canyon that day. 974 01:04:15,070 --> 01:04:19,110 Then I kind of started to think about it again. 975 01:04:19,110 --> 01:04:22,450 Right at the top of the Bastille is Hairstyles and Attitudes, 976 01:04:22,450 --> 01:04:27,090 one of the most exposed and difficult lines in the canyon. 977 01:04:27,090 --> 01:04:29,520 A few years ago I led Hairstyles and Attitudes 978 01:04:29,520 --> 01:04:32,860 and afterward I just thought about how amazing 979 01:04:32,860 --> 01:04:36,660 it would feel to be up there with just a chalk bag. 980 01:04:36,660 --> 01:04:39,150 Every solo Brad had done in Eldo so far felt 981 01:04:39,150 --> 01:04:42,000 like an incremental step in his progression. 982 01:04:42,000 --> 01:04:44,680 But to me, Hairstyles felt like a whole new level. 983 01:04:47,240 --> 01:04:50,670 It's balanc-y style of climbing. 984 01:04:50,670 --> 01:04:51,890 It's very thin edges. 985 01:04:51,890 --> 01:04:53,740 It's a little slippery. 986 01:04:53,740 --> 01:04:56,470 But mostly it's just super exposed. 987 01:04:56,470 --> 01:04:59,941 It's so high off the ground. 988 01:04:59,941 --> 01:05:01,440 I've climbed Hairstyles and Attitude 989 01:05:01,440 --> 01:05:04,680 and I couldn't imagine soloing that route, especially 990 01:05:04,680 --> 01:05:05,568 with how short he is. 991 01:05:05,574 --> 01:05:07,230 You have to really stand on your feet 992 01:05:07,230 --> 01:05:10,160 and just get fully stretched out. 993 01:05:10,160 --> 01:05:12,900 Yeah, soloing something like Hairstyles is definitely hard. 994 01:05:12,900 --> 01:05:14,820 But I feel like Brad is actually surprisingly 995 01:05:14,820 --> 01:05:16,528 conservative in his approach. 996 01:05:16,535 --> 01:05:19,040 I'd climb it so many times where I got to that point 997 01:05:19,040 --> 01:05:21,880 where I was like, I know I'm going to be OK. 998 01:05:21,880 --> 01:05:25,540 I've probably climbed this about 50 times, no joke, 999 01:05:25,540 --> 01:05:27,290 over the past few years. 1000 01:05:27,290 --> 01:05:28,839 And in the last month, I've actually 1001 01:05:28,852 --> 01:05:30,490 been climbing it more and more. 1002 01:05:30,490 --> 01:05:33,050 I'm going to go ahead and do this little sequence again. 1003 01:05:33,050 --> 01:05:34,560 Of course, people are going to say 1004 01:05:34,560 --> 01:05:35,968 that soloing something like Hairstyles 1005 01:05:35,961 --> 01:05:40,010 is reckless or totally insane, but it's his dream. 1006 01:05:40,010 --> 01:05:42,210 And you've just got to respect that. 1007 01:05:42,210 --> 01:05:44,710 It's not just some sport hobby, you know, it's my passion. 1008 01:05:44,710 --> 01:05:45,480 It's my life. 1009 01:05:45,480 --> 01:05:47,730 I want to look back on these years and be super proud. 1010 01:05:54,270 --> 01:05:58,220 Hairstyles and Attitudes was the hardest solo to commit to. 1011 01:05:58,220 --> 01:06:00,740 I was concerned that maybe I would be a little more 1012 01:06:00,740 --> 01:06:02,960 tense than I should be and it might make 1013 01:06:02,960 --> 01:06:04,836 the climbing feel different. 1014 01:06:20,950 --> 01:06:23,410 You get to that rest, you're shaken out, 1015 01:06:23,410 --> 01:06:25,240 you're thinking about it. 1016 01:06:25,240 --> 01:06:29,490 But once you move up past that ledge, it's 100% on. 1017 01:06:29,490 --> 01:06:30,600 There's no down climbing. 1018 01:06:30,600 --> 01:06:32,600 You're either going to be coming off the wall 1019 01:06:32,600 --> 01:06:34,225 or you're going to be going to the top. 1020 01:06:36,030 --> 01:06:38,490 Filming someone hanging from like a couple millimeters 1021 01:06:38,490 --> 01:06:41,507 of rock, it's nerve wracking filming that kind of stuff, 1022 01:06:41,507 --> 01:06:43,201 you know, it's intense. 1023 01:07:25,110 --> 01:07:27,810 Once I watched Brad climb the first bit of hard climbing, 1024 01:07:27,810 --> 01:07:30,930 I knew he was 100% committed. 1025 01:07:30,930 --> 01:07:33,880 He was climbing super deliberately and in control. 1026 01:07:52,710 --> 01:07:56,100 You know, then Brad came to the crux, the hardest and most 1027 01:07:56,100 --> 01:07:57,570 insecure moves in the entire route. 1028 01:08:25,160 --> 01:08:26,660 You know, it wasn't like, oh my god. 1029 01:08:26,660 --> 01:08:27,210 I'm falling off. 1030 01:08:27,210 --> 01:08:27,918 I'm going to die. 1031 01:08:27,918 --> 01:08:29,785 But it was like, oh, this feels a little bit 1032 01:08:29,785 --> 01:08:30,660 different than usual. 1033 01:08:34,420 --> 01:08:36,984 There was still a lot of hard climbing to do 1034 01:08:36,984 --> 01:08:38,650 and I just had to forget it and move on. 1035 01:08:57,000 --> 01:09:02,330 Yeah, I'm like kind of overgripping, I think. 1036 01:09:02,330 --> 01:09:05,620 After that sketchy moment, I can barely hold my camera still 1037 01:09:05,620 --> 01:09:06,974 to get a shot. 1038 01:09:06,974 --> 01:09:08,390 All I wanted to do the entire time 1039 01:09:08,390 --> 01:09:10,390 was like through him the fucking rope, you know? 1040 01:09:14,880 --> 01:09:18,321 But somehow he's able to dial everything back and focus. 1041 01:09:22,035 --> 01:09:24,410 For Brad, it was like that last 10 feet of climbing never 1042 01:09:24,410 --> 01:09:24,910 happened. 1043 01:09:41,140 --> 01:09:44,050 Watching Brad solo Hairstyles was 1044 01:09:44,050 --> 01:09:47,140 one of the most terrifying but most bad ass things 1045 01:09:47,140 --> 01:09:48,730 I've ever seen in climbing. 1046 01:09:48,730 --> 01:09:50,590 And I'm pretty sure that no one's ever 1047 01:09:50,590 --> 01:09:51,950 going to do it again. 1048 01:09:51,950 --> 01:09:53,772 I've been wanting to that for awhile. 1049 01:09:53,772 --> 01:09:55,570 One of the best, right? 1050 01:09:55,570 --> 01:09:56,946 So good. 1051 01:09:56,939 --> 01:09:58,287 [YELLING] 1052 01:09:59,010 --> 01:10:02,280 I had a small sense of relief coming over the top. 1053 01:10:02,280 --> 01:10:04,713 But mostly I just felt so stoked. 1054 01:10:04,713 --> 01:10:06,704 That was definitely one of the proudest climbs 1055 01:10:06,703 --> 01:10:08,070 of my life for sure. 1056 01:10:23,300 --> 01:10:25,550 You know, all the bold climbing Brad's been doing, 1057 01:10:25,550 --> 01:10:27,350 some people find it irresponsible. 1058 01:10:27,350 --> 01:10:29,629 But rock climbing, it's not golf, OK? 1059 01:10:29,629 --> 01:10:31,190 It's supposed to be dangerous. 1060 01:10:31,190 --> 01:10:33,709 I mean, people think climbing should be this safe sport 1061 01:10:33,709 --> 01:10:35,209 like gymnastics or something. 1062 01:10:35,209 --> 01:10:35,990 I say, screw that. 1063 01:10:35,990 --> 01:10:37,610 I'm all, climbing is supposed to be adventurous. 1064 01:10:37,610 --> 01:10:39,235 It's supposed to be a little dangerous. 1065 01:10:39,235 --> 01:10:41,030 It's supposed to be exciting, you know? 1066 01:10:41,030 --> 01:10:42,034 I mean, what the [BLEEP] 1067 01:10:42,034 --> 01:10:45,499 [MUSIC PLAYING] 1068 01:11:37,570 --> 01:11:39,607 So how'd you lose your arm? 1069 01:11:39,607 --> 01:11:41,440 Someone took the guard off the wood chipper. 1070 01:11:44,430 --> 01:11:46,030 You're lucky, this could really-- 1071 01:11:49,290 --> 01:11:51,810 I only stuck my arm out of the shark tank for a second. 1072 01:11:57,160 --> 01:11:59,960 I was trying to get the fork out of the garbage disposal. 1073 01:12:03,060 --> 01:12:05,180 Alligators don't belong at petting zoos. 1074 01:12:09,830 --> 01:12:12,726 I didn't eat my vegetables and it fell off. 1075 01:12:15,281 --> 01:12:17,617 When you get out of a helicopter, never wave. 1076 01:12:21,209 --> 01:12:23,250 I do have a friend who lost his hand to fireworks 1077 01:12:23,250 --> 01:12:24,770 so I won't make a fireworks joke. 1078 01:12:24,770 --> 01:12:25,860 That happens a lot. 1079 01:12:28,352 --> 01:12:30,810 I was born without my hand, and they're still not sure why. 1080 01:12:30,810 --> 01:12:33,569 My mom wasn't on drugs, so I'm told. 1081 01:12:33,580 --> 01:12:34,375 Sorry, mom. 1082 01:12:35,240 --> 01:12:37,550 I don't want to be known for being a one armed climber. 1083 01:12:37,550 --> 01:12:39,360 And it's tough, because, like, I get it. 1084 01:12:39,360 --> 01:12:40,740 That's what makes me special. 1085 01:12:40,740 --> 01:12:42,780 But I'd rather be just a good climber. 1086 01:12:42,780 --> 01:12:44,530 Like I don't want to be good for a girl. 1087 01:12:44,530 --> 01:12:46,110 I don't want to be good for just having one hand. 1088 01:12:46,110 --> 01:12:47,818 I just want to be a good climber, period. 1089 01:12:52,160 --> 01:12:55,590 [GRUNTING] 1090 01:12:55,590 --> 01:12:57,670 [YELLING] 1091 01:12:57,676 --> 01:13:00,000 Fucker, I was so close. 1092 01:13:05,880 --> 01:13:09,310 Stump dicks. 1093 01:13:09,310 --> 01:13:09,943 So weird. 1094 01:13:09,939 --> 01:13:12,430 Can't show that to my mom. 1095 01:13:12,430 --> 01:13:14,280 My name is James Scheri. 1096 01:13:14,280 --> 01:13:17,100 I climb stuff, all kinds of stuff. 1097 01:13:20,270 --> 01:13:22,940 Normally I wake up every morning and it's holy fuck, 1098 01:13:22,940 --> 01:13:24,330 I don't have a leg anymore. 1099 01:13:24,330 --> 01:13:24,940 Do you really? 1100 01:13:24,940 --> 01:13:25,300 No. 1101 01:13:25,310 --> 01:13:27,059 OK. 1102 01:13:27,059 --> 01:13:29,350 I've been climbing with Maureen for a little while now, 1103 01:13:29,350 --> 01:13:30,850 and there's pretty much three things 1104 01:13:30,850 --> 01:13:32,861 that you need to know about her. 1105 01:13:32,851 --> 01:13:34,991 One, animals. 1106 01:13:35,250 --> 01:13:37,680 I love animals so much. 1107 01:13:37,680 --> 01:13:38,840 Good, chickens. 1108 01:13:38,840 --> 01:13:40,150 Yeah, I do love my chickens. 1109 01:13:40,150 --> 01:13:42,190 They don't love me. 1110 01:13:42,190 --> 01:13:43,700 Two, junk food. 1111 01:13:43,700 --> 01:13:46,810 Oh my god, mac and cheese, grilled cheese, carbs 1112 01:13:46,810 --> 01:13:48,340 and cheese together. 1113 01:13:48,340 --> 01:13:51,640 She pretty much has the diet of a five-year-old kid. 1114 01:13:51,640 --> 01:13:55,510 And three, she is currently the best one armed female 1115 01:13:55,510 --> 01:13:57,194 climber in the world. 1116 01:13:57,194 --> 01:13:59,002 [CHEERING] 1117 01:13:59,002 --> 01:14:01,371 She also probably has the record for cupcakes 1118 01:14:01,378 --> 01:14:02,998 eaten on a climbing podium. 1119 01:14:05,784 --> 01:14:08,100 You know, losing your legs sucks. 1120 01:14:08,100 --> 01:14:09,260 It's not fun, right. 1121 01:14:09,260 --> 01:14:11,930 But like as climbers, we use our hands quite a bit. 1122 01:14:11,930 --> 01:14:14,810 And your feet, you can kind of fake it, right, like, I mean, 1123 01:14:14,810 --> 01:14:16,680 not that I'm saying it's easy. 1124 01:14:16,680 --> 01:14:19,140 But the thing with climbing with a stump, 1125 01:14:19,140 --> 01:14:21,920 it's just baffling to me. 1126 01:14:21,920 --> 01:14:23,580 I do a lot of matching. 1127 01:14:23,580 --> 01:14:26,690 I grab a lot of holds backwards because I'll just make it work. 1128 01:14:26,690 --> 01:14:28,250 I can side pull with it. 1129 01:14:28,250 --> 01:14:29,360 I can lay back with it. 1130 01:14:29,360 --> 01:14:30,770 I can jam it in a crack. 1131 01:14:30,770 --> 01:14:32,660 If there's a jug, I have to hook from above. 1132 01:14:32,660 --> 01:14:34,350 If I can get the right angle on crimps, 1133 01:14:34,350 --> 01:14:37,010 I can actually catch the edge of the crimp 1134 01:14:37,010 --> 01:14:38,990 if I'm really delicate. 1135 01:14:38,990 --> 01:14:41,780 Watching her clip doesn't ever look solid. 1136 01:14:41,780 --> 01:14:42,320 Take. 1137 01:14:42,320 --> 01:14:44,810 I'll get like toes to tits heel hook 1138 01:14:44,810 --> 01:14:47,842 to keep me on while I clip. 1139 01:14:47,842 --> 01:14:49,550 Sometime last summer I decided, you know, 1140 01:14:49,550 --> 01:14:51,960 I want to find something hard and I want to lead it. 1141 01:14:51,960 --> 01:14:54,290 And so a friend of mine recommended Reefer Madness, 1142 01:14:54,290 --> 01:14:58,850 which is an 11a, four star 11a in Clear Creek. 1143 01:14:58,850 --> 01:15:00,500 And I probably spent five or six days 1144 01:15:00,500 --> 01:15:03,480 on top rope, three of which I thought, this is impossible. 1145 01:15:03,480 --> 01:15:05,000 I can't do it. 1146 01:15:05,000 --> 01:15:07,820 And then on the fourth day, I unlocked some kind of sequence 1147 01:15:07,820 --> 01:15:10,714 where all of a sudden I thought, whoa, this is possible. 1148 01:15:10,714 --> 01:15:12,019 [GRUNTING] 1149 01:15:12,018 --> 01:15:13,500 You got this. 1150 01:15:13,511 --> 01:15:14,499 Yeah. 1151 01:15:15,160 --> 01:15:17,110 Not that long ago I would have just settled 1152 01:15:17,110 --> 01:15:19,760 for being a 5.8 top rope climber for the rest of my life. 1153 01:15:19,760 --> 01:15:22,090 And then I did Reefer Madness and it just 1154 01:15:22,090 --> 01:15:24,130 didn't seem that hard. 1155 01:15:24,130 --> 01:15:25,960 It was such an eye opening experience. 1156 01:15:25,960 --> 01:15:29,620 I was just like, I should be doing harder routes. 1157 01:15:29,620 --> 01:15:32,710 I don't get the impression that she has any intention 1158 01:15:32,710 --> 01:15:35,250 of stopping anytime soon. 1159 01:15:35,250 --> 01:15:37,700 [MUSIC PLAYING] 1160 01:15:39,609 --> 01:15:41,650 People come up to us in the gym and they're like, 1161 01:15:41,650 --> 01:15:44,191 we just saw you guys climbing and we're just really inspired. 1162 01:15:44,191 --> 01:15:47,210 And it's like, we're not doing anything inspiring. 1163 01:15:47,210 --> 01:15:49,370 We're just climbing in a gym like everyone else. 1164 01:15:49,370 --> 01:15:54,040 Like-- pretty sure I could like rapel 1165 01:15:54,040 --> 01:15:55,723 and you'd be inspired by it. 1166 01:15:59,800 --> 01:16:01,330 I don't want someone to look at me 1167 01:16:01,330 --> 01:16:03,456 and just focus on the one on the one arm. 1168 01:16:06,319 --> 01:16:08,610 I don't want someone to look at James and just be like, 1169 01:16:08,610 --> 01:16:11,280 he's good for one leg, or something. 1170 01:16:11,280 --> 01:16:13,320 I think climbing with disabled people 1171 01:16:13,320 --> 01:16:15,850 has come so far in the last few years. 1172 01:16:15,850 --> 01:16:18,270 Craig has climbed 5.13. 1173 01:16:18,270 --> 01:16:19,960 Ryan's climbed v10. 1174 01:16:19,960 --> 01:16:21,870 It's just like, I think we should all 1175 01:16:21,870 --> 01:16:24,350 be held to the same standard. 1176 01:16:24,350 --> 01:16:26,250 The perception in America, they're 1177 01:16:26,250 --> 01:16:28,480 so shocked that you're doing something. 1178 01:16:28,480 --> 01:16:30,480 And so they react one way, which is like, 1179 01:16:30,480 --> 01:16:32,640 oh my gosh, that's so inspiring. 1180 01:16:32,640 --> 01:16:37,530 When for the athlete, they definitely don't like that. 1181 01:16:37,530 --> 01:16:39,382 I don't mind inspiring other adaptive people 1182 01:16:39,382 --> 01:16:41,340 or disabled people, because I think they really 1183 01:16:41,340 --> 01:16:43,631 do have this barrier to entry, this barrier to thinking 1184 01:16:43,631 --> 01:16:44,700 of what's possible. 1185 01:16:44,700 --> 01:16:45,750 When you're ready. 1186 01:16:45,750 --> 01:16:47,490 But when someone from the abled community 1187 01:16:47,490 --> 01:16:49,220 comments on one of my photos, like, wow, 1188 01:16:49,220 --> 01:16:50,284 now I have no excuses. 1189 01:16:50,284 --> 01:16:51,700 I'm like, well, I never really had 1190 01:16:51,700 --> 01:16:53,436 an excuse in the first place. 1191 01:16:53,436 --> 01:16:55,495 I think it's cool to get recognized when 1192 01:16:55,495 --> 01:16:57,661 you go above and beyond or are trying hard and doing 1193 01:16:57,661 --> 01:17:00,690 cool shit, but I don't think we should be celebrated 1194 01:17:00,690 --> 01:17:02,820 just because we're disabled. 1195 01:17:02,820 --> 01:17:06,210 Just like bringing disabled people to a level lower than, 1196 01:17:06,210 --> 01:17:07,790 you know, able-bodied people. 1197 01:17:07,790 --> 01:17:09,550 It's like that question where, when you're climbing, 1198 01:17:09,550 --> 01:17:10,520 do you forget your disabled? 1199 01:17:10,527 --> 01:17:11,660 And I'm like, no. 1200 01:17:11,660 --> 01:17:12,981 Why would I want to forget I'm disabled? 1201 01:17:12,974 --> 01:17:14,112 I freaking love my life. 1202 01:17:14,464 --> 01:17:16,749 [CHATTER] 1203 01:17:17,670 --> 01:17:21,850 I think that the image of a disabled person in America 1204 01:17:21,850 --> 01:17:24,839 is built up to be helpless. 1205 01:17:24,839 --> 01:17:26,880 I understand the media is fascinated with telling 1206 01:17:26,889 --> 01:17:28,377 stories of disabled people. 1207 01:17:28,369 --> 01:17:32,610 But the way that they portray us is just comically bad. 1208 01:17:32,610 --> 01:17:35,460 Typing may not seem a difficult task to you and me. 1209 01:17:35,460 --> 01:17:37,270 It's very accurate. 1210 01:17:37,270 --> 01:17:40,390 Nor is it out of the ordinary for Maureen Beck. 1211 01:17:40,390 --> 01:17:42,420 Like typing, for real? 1212 01:17:42,420 --> 01:17:45,790 From birth, limits have tried to interfere with her life. 1213 01:17:45,790 --> 01:17:49,310 And since that day, she's shrugged those limits aside. 1214 01:17:49,310 --> 01:17:50,790 I think the worst one was when they 1215 01:17:50,790 --> 01:17:53,580 made us rope up on the second flatiron, which 1216 01:17:53,580 --> 01:17:56,370 is a 5.0 climb that people in Boulder 1217 01:17:56,370 --> 01:17:57,510 do in their Birkenstocks. 1218 01:17:57,510 --> 01:17:59,820 As the sun rises above the Flatirons, 1219 01:17:59,820 --> 01:18:04,144 James Scheri and Maureen Beck see a challenge on the horizon. 1220 01:18:04,136 --> 01:18:06,030 You know, it's a climb that everybody in our group 1221 01:18:06,030 --> 01:18:07,890 had soloed dozens of times. 1222 01:18:07,890 --> 01:18:10,410 These climbers with disabilities only 1223 01:18:10,410 --> 01:18:14,160 see opportunity at the base of this towering sandstone. 1224 01:18:14,160 --> 01:18:15,360 Whoa, look at this. 1225 01:18:15,360 --> 01:18:16,884 Like they can actually do it. 1226 01:18:16,884 --> 01:18:18,300 And the whole day we're just like, 1227 01:18:18,300 --> 01:18:21,090 this is kind of fucking boring. 1228 01:18:21,090 --> 01:18:23,760 To ascend a wall riddled with pitfalls, 1229 01:18:23,760 --> 01:18:25,140 the team works together. 1230 01:18:25,140 --> 01:18:26,820 You're good to climb. 1231 01:18:26,820 --> 01:18:31,470 They see ability in their disability. 1232 01:18:31,470 --> 01:18:33,420 On the mountain, this group showed 1233 01:18:33,420 --> 01:18:36,400 us there is no summit too high to reach, 1234 01:18:36,400 --> 01:18:42,740 giving those with disabilities a new view on life. 1235 01:18:42,740 --> 01:18:45,740 People have these falsely deflated expectations 1236 01:18:45,740 --> 01:18:50,520 of disabled athletes and it really does affect us. 1237 01:18:50,520 --> 01:18:52,570 I did a comp, a World Cup, actually, 1238 01:18:52,570 --> 01:18:55,070 we're all training really hard and we show up and the routes 1239 01:18:55,070 --> 01:18:56,560 are like 5.8, 5.9, and 5.10. 1240 01:18:56,560 --> 01:19:00,580 And I'm like, I flew to Europe for this? 1241 01:19:00,580 --> 01:19:02,630 I actually was like upset enough about it 1242 01:19:02,630 --> 01:19:03,690 that I spoke to one of the organizers 1243 01:19:03,690 --> 01:19:05,861 and was like, hey, like these routes were way too easy. 1244 01:19:05,861 --> 01:19:07,040 Like, it's not cool. 1245 01:19:07,040 --> 01:19:08,860 And the guy actually said, well oh, it just 1246 01:19:08,860 --> 01:19:11,151 makes the crowd feel really good when you guys top out. 1247 01:19:11,151 --> 01:19:14,072 And I was just like. 1248 01:19:14,072 --> 01:19:15,740 Makes me feel like shit. 1249 01:19:15,740 --> 01:19:19,070 We're real athletes just like the able-bodied team. 1250 01:19:19,070 --> 01:19:20,730 We don't claim to be special. 1251 01:19:20,730 --> 01:19:22,490 We don't plan to win some silly awards. 1252 01:19:22,490 --> 01:19:25,362 Like we just climb because we love climbing, just 1253 01:19:25,362 --> 01:19:27,390 like everybody else. 1254 01:19:27,390 --> 01:19:30,300 [MUSIC PLAYING] 1255 01:19:39,040 --> 01:19:42,330 We go all the way up to Wyoming to climb in Vedauwoo. 1256 01:19:42,330 --> 01:19:44,235 I think that I'm going to be a nice person 1257 01:19:44,235 --> 01:19:46,830 and bring a cooler full of beer and ice 1258 01:19:46,830 --> 01:19:49,490 so we can have cold beer to drink all day. 1259 01:19:49,490 --> 01:19:52,800 And I hand the cooler to Mo for like two seconds 1260 01:19:52,800 --> 01:19:55,900 and the next thing I know. 1261 01:19:55,900 --> 01:19:58,860 The cooler broke and it's 10:00 AM and we're out of beer. 1262 01:19:58,860 --> 01:20:02,880 The beer is everywhere, all over the rocky ground, spraying. 1263 01:20:02,880 --> 01:20:03,960 Destroyed. 1264 01:20:03,960 --> 01:20:04,562 Pound it. 1265 01:20:04,562 --> 01:20:05,062 Come on. 1266 01:20:05,062 --> 01:20:06,360 There's still stuff in there. 1267 01:20:06,360 --> 01:20:08,950 10 o'clock in the morning in Vedauwoo. 1268 01:20:08,981 --> 01:20:09,943 Woo. 1269 01:20:13,810 --> 01:20:15,690 It's like breakfast beer. 1270 01:20:15,690 --> 01:20:16,880 Waste not want not. 1271 01:20:16,880 --> 01:20:19,204 There are sober children. 1272 01:20:19,204 --> 01:20:20,620 Luckily I'm like 10 pounds heavier 1273 01:20:20,620 --> 01:20:23,100 and I can just wedge my stomach into the off width. 1274 01:20:28,430 --> 01:20:31,440 That was the carbonation, too, I promise. 1275 01:20:31,440 --> 01:20:33,030 Want to go rock climbing? 1276 01:20:33,030 --> 01:20:34,520 I have to be burped first. 1277 01:20:34,520 --> 01:20:38,515 Yeah, Maureen can be a junk show every now and then. 1278 01:20:38,515 --> 01:20:40,220 We seriously got lost like eight times. 1279 01:20:40,220 --> 01:20:41,280 My groin! 1280 01:20:41,280 --> 01:20:43,650 But like once she is climbing, it 1281 01:20:43,650 --> 01:20:46,350 seems like the junk show kind of goes away. 1282 01:20:46,350 --> 01:20:48,430 Maybe it's just that whole, she's so excited 1283 01:20:48,429 --> 01:20:49,890 to climb she's not really worried 1284 01:20:49,890 --> 01:20:52,380 about the actual planning process. 1285 01:20:52,380 --> 01:20:53,125 We're not lost. 1286 01:20:53,125 --> 01:20:53,859 Are you sure? 1287 01:20:53,859 --> 01:20:54,650 We're totally lost. 1288 01:20:54,650 --> 01:20:56,170 I have no idea where we are. 1289 01:20:56,170 --> 01:20:58,086 This is unbelievable. 1290 01:20:58,100 --> 01:20:59,230 I'm a new boulderer. 1291 01:20:59,230 --> 01:21:01,240 Bouldering is really hard with one hand. 1292 01:21:06,940 --> 01:21:08,940 The fuck am I doing? 1293 01:21:08,940 --> 01:21:09,690 She'll fail. 1294 01:21:09,690 --> 01:21:12,480 She doesn't mind failing. 1295 01:21:12,480 --> 01:21:15,540 To me, I watch that and I'm like, that's bad ass. 1296 01:21:15,540 --> 01:21:17,885 It's pretty cool to see. 1297 01:21:17,885 --> 01:21:18,580 Shit. 1298 01:21:18,580 --> 01:21:20,800 Would it help if there was a cupcake at the top? 1299 01:21:20,800 --> 01:21:21,337 Probably. 1300 01:21:21,337 --> 01:21:22,920 One of the biggest things I've learned 1301 01:21:22,920 --> 01:21:23,880 in the last couple of years is when 1302 01:21:23,880 --> 01:21:26,100 it's OK to walk away and not be mad at yourself 1303 01:21:26,100 --> 01:21:28,225 because just not all climbs are meant to happen. 1304 01:21:30,799 --> 01:21:32,340 It's really sweet going on a climbing 1305 01:21:32,340 --> 01:21:33,450 trip with other adaptive climbers, 1306 01:21:33,450 --> 01:21:35,700 because no one's taking the time to say, oh, no. 1307 01:21:35,700 --> 01:21:36,630 You can't do that. 1308 01:21:36,630 --> 01:21:38,570 Or, oh, be careful there. 1309 01:21:38,570 --> 01:21:46,459 Oh, don't let Budget see this video. 1310 01:21:46,459 --> 01:21:48,250 The more I hang out with adaptive climbers, 1311 01:21:48,250 --> 01:21:49,830 the more I'm pushing myself. 1312 01:21:49,830 --> 01:21:51,960 I'm not giving them any slack and I fully 1313 01:21:51,960 --> 01:21:53,910 expect them to not give me slack. 1314 01:21:53,917 --> 01:21:55,193 Nice, Ryan, nice. 1315 01:21:55,200 --> 01:21:57,780 Seeing other adaptive athletes really push the limits 1316 01:21:57,780 --> 01:22:00,477 and see how hard they can go, it makes 1317 01:22:00,482 --> 01:22:02,710 me want to be less of a fat ass and see how hard I can go. 1318 01:22:07,600 --> 01:22:10,534 [MUSIC PLAYING] 1319 01:22:12,990 --> 01:22:15,050 5.12 is something that two years ago I'd tell you 1320 01:22:15,050 --> 01:22:19,060 you are absolutely bat shit for thinking I could do it. 1321 01:22:19,060 --> 01:22:22,600 I think for every climber their first 5.12 is that first, cool, 1322 01:22:22,600 --> 01:22:24,580 I'm a climber. 1323 01:22:24,580 --> 01:22:26,460 I mean, there's a book, How to Climb 5.12. 1324 01:22:26,460 --> 01:22:29,950 There's not a book that says how to climb 5.11 or 5.8, 5.9. 1325 01:22:29,950 --> 01:22:32,085 There's a friggin book called How to Climb 5.12. 1326 01:22:32,085 --> 01:22:32,911 Have you read it? 1327 01:22:33,390 --> 01:22:34,600 No. 1328 01:22:34,600 --> 01:22:36,248 Oh shit. 1329 01:22:36,248 --> 01:22:37,180 Oops. 1330 01:22:37,180 --> 01:22:39,820 Obviously, I failed miserably. 1331 01:22:39,820 --> 01:22:41,170 That's not the way to do it. 1332 01:22:41,170 --> 01:22:45,640 But it's 5.12, it's supposed to be hard. 1333 01:22:45,640 --> 01:22:48,610 So right now I'm working on Days of Future Past. 1334 01:22:48,610 --> 01:22:54,930 The crux is crossing over a greasy shallow offsize crack. 1335 01:22:54,930 --> 01:22:57,060 Most people can just reach over to the good hold. 1336 01:22:57,060 --> 01:23:00,180 But having a friggin negative 13 ape index 1337 01:23:00,180 --> 01:23:01,170 makes it a little hard. 1338 01:23:05,234 --> 01:23:06,650 And even when I get the good hold, 1339 01:23:06,650 --> 01:23:08,480 it's like, how am I going to match this? 1340 01:23:08,480 --> 01:23:10,195 Just grab it with my left hand? 1341 01:23:16,852 --> 01:23:19,332 [YELLING] 1342 01:23:20,100 --> 01:23:22,797 There were definitely moves on the route that seemed harder 1343 01:23:22,797 --> 01:23:24,380 than anything I had ever tried before. 1344 01:23:24,380 --> 01:23:26,070 But there was something about it that just clicked. 1345 01:23:26,070 --> 01:23:27,620 I thought, this could work. 1346 01:23:30,690 --> 01:23:33,680 This route is more technical than Burl, which 1347 01:23:33,680 --> 01:23:35,540 I think is her strong suit. 1348 01:23:35,540 --> 01:23:37,100 She is very precise. 1349 01:23:37,100 --> 01:23:38,630 And she's able to take her time. 1350 01:23:38,630 --> 01:23:40,730 And she's able to kind of sort it out. 1351 01:23:40,730 --> 01:23:42,690 I think if I just try really hard. 1352 01:23:46,090 --> 01:23:48,780 It wasn't long before I had the bottom climb completely 1353 01:23:48,780 --> 01:23:51,300 memorized. 1354 01:23:51,300 --> 01:23:53,060 The top section, you know it's hard. 1355 01:23:53,060 --> 01:23:53,740 It's pumpy. 1356 01:23:53,740 --> 01:23:54,280 It's steep. 1357 01:23:54,280 --> 01:23:57,370 But it's totally doable. 1358 01:23:57,370 --> 01:23:59,267 The biggest question mark for me was, was I 1359 01:23:59,267 --> 01:24:01,600 going to be able to do the crux, which starts on a ledge 1360 01:24:01,600 --> 01:24:04,304 and it isn't over until you grab a big chickenhead. 1361 01:24:04,304 --> 01:24:06,720 The hardest move is trying to get that freaking stump jam. 1362 01:24:10,100 --> 01:24:14,184 I must have gone up over a dozen times. 1363 01:24:14,184 --> 01:24:16,514 [YELLING] 1364 01:24:16,514 --> 01:24:19,695 So fucking close. 1365 01:24:19,695 --> 01:24:22,880 [YELLING] 1366 01:24:25,670 --> 01:24:27,680 Something wasn't connecting for me 1367 01:24:27,680 --> 01:24:30,035 to be able to just pull off this move. 1368 01:24:30,035 --> 01:24:31,620 It's 5.12, man. 1369 01:24:31,620 --> 01:24:33,632 I'm actually happy on the inside. 1370 01:24:34,549 --> 01:24:37,345 [YELLING] 1371 01:24:37,830 --> 01:24:39,590 Feels better every time. 1372 01:24:39,590 --> 01:24:45,100 We're out here for about the 15th or 16th time. 1373 01:24:45,100 --> 01:24:48,824 I need cheese and meat and crackers. 1374 01:24:48,824 --> 01:24:51,240 I'll bring some healthy snacks, but you always need Oreos. 1375 01:24:51,240 --> 01:24:52,880 I don't think you can climb without Oreos. 1376 01:24:52,880 --> 01:24:53,690 Just double stuff. 1377 01:24:53,690 --> 01:24:56,630 Like if you like single stuff, you hate America. 1378 01:24:56,630 --> 01:24:57,750 She knows, like, OK. 1379 01:24:57,750 --> 01:24:59,140 It might not happen this week. 1380 01:24:59,140 --> 01:25:00,510 It might not happen next month. 1381 01:25:00,510 --> 01:25:02,280 But I think in her head it will happen. 1382 01:25:02,280 --> 01:25:05,197 I spent a lot of time last night visualizing the send. 1383 01:25:05,197 --> 01:25:06,030 So maybe it will go. 1384 01:25:06,030 --> 01:25:06,574 Maybe it won't. 1385 01:25:06,574 --> 01:25:07,370 Probably won't. 1386 01:25:07,370 --> 01:25:08,520 But I think it's go time. 1387 01:25:08,520 --> 01:25:09,707 I think it's time to start. 1388 01:25:09,707 --> 01:25:12,040 I think I've turned into like a total projecting wanker. 1389 01:25:12,040 --> 01:25:14,312 Like I don't go climb for fun anymore. 1390 01:25:14,312 --> 01:25:15,590 Fucker. 1391 01:25:15,590 --> 01:25:18,322 I'm sick of walking up here three times a week. 1392 01:25:18,322 --> 01:25:20,780 I'll complain about having to go to do my project, kind of. 1393 01:25:20,780 --> 01:25:22,880 I'll be like, yeah, I'm going to go work the project again. 1394 01:25:22,874 --> 01:25:25,280 Or I'm getting sick and tired of it. 1395 01:25:25,280 --> 01:25:27,770 But I just, I love that process of taking something 1396 01:25:27,770 --> 01:25:30,860 that was impossible and then doing it, 1397 01:25:30,860 --> 01:25:33,140 even if there is some psycho insanity 1398 01:25:33,147 --> 01:25:35,070 time wasting in the middle. 1399 01:25:35,077 --> 01:25:36,063 What the fuck. 1400 01:25:42,569 --> 01:25:45,032 Bear is one of my tribe and I find it really motivating 1401 01:25:45,047 --> 01:25:47,100 that he still gets up and after it every day. 1402 01:25:47,108 --> 01:25:48,438 He could just give up on life but instead 1403 01:25:48,432 --> 01:25:50,970 he's out here chewing sticks. 1404 01:25:50,970 --> 01:25:52,870 That's one inspiring dog. 1405 01:25:52,870 --> 01:25:54,754 I just, never thought I'd be a projector. 1406 01:25:54,743 --> 01:25:56,860 Because before I did, I thought it was boring. 1407 01:25:56,860 --> 01:25:59,754 How could you do the same climb 100 times when there's so many 1408 01:25:59,764 --> 01:26:00,320 climbs out there. 1409 01:26:00,320 --> 01:26:04,710 But now that I'm kind of into it, it's kind of fun. 1410 01:26:04,710 --> 01:26:05,210 It's wet. 1411 01:26:05,210 --> 01:26:06,390 It's cold. 1412 01:26:06,390 --> 01:26:07,160 And I'm sick. 1413 01:26:10,121 --> 01:26:10,620 Shit. 1414 01:26:10,820 --> 01:26:12,500 I've always had this feeling I could do the climb, that's 1415 01:26:12,500 --> 01:26:13,430 why I started it. 1416 01:26:13,430 --> 01:26:15,280 But I haven't been able to do the crux move. 1417 01:26:15,280 --> 01:26:16,772 Like, it's still shutting me down. 1418 01:26:16,772 --> 01:26:18,230 And that's when I started to think, 1419 01:26:18,230 --> 01:26:19,720 maybe I just actually can't do it. 1420 01:26:19,720 --> 01:26:22,120 Maybe someone with my hand just can't do this route. 1421 01:26:25,930 --> 01:26:27,930 And so I went into this lead attempt being like, 1422 01:26:27,930 --> 01:26:28,950 I'm going to fall. 1423 01:26:41,880 --> 01:26:44,190 And then I stuck the crux. 1424 01:26:44,190 --> 01:26:46,601 And I thought, holy cow, this is it. 1425 01:27:05,770 --> 01:27:07,260 And I was like, oh shit. 1426 01:27:07,260 --> 01:27:10,644 I fell off after the crux. 1427 01:27:10,644 --> 01:27:11,590 Fuck. 1428 01:27:11,590 --> 01:27:14,494 I might be spent. 1429 01:27:14,494 --> 01:27:16,660 I realized it was going to be a really big challenge 1430 01:27:16,660 --> 01:27:20,060 to link it all together. 1431 01:27:20,060 --> 01:27:23,996 [MUSIC PLAYING] 1432 01:27:37,290 --> 01:27:39,920 Pretty much I haven't really been projecting a whole route. 1433 01:27:39,920 --> 01:27:42,420 I've been projecting three feet of climbing for the last six 1434 01:27:42,420 --> 01:27:43,420 months. 1435 01:27:43,420 --> 01:27:47,170 And when I say that, it makes me feel insane. 1436 01:27:47,170 --> 01:27:49,974 Like, definition of an insane person 1437 01:27:49,974 --> 01:27:51,012 doing the same thing over and over 1438 01:27:51,016 --> 01:27:53,330 and expecting a different result, 1439 01:27:53,330 --> 01:27:58,340 my face is next to that definition in the dictionary. 1440 01:27:58,340 --> 01:28:01,380 I'm so close on this climb that the littlest things I think 1441 01:28:01,380 --> 01:28:02,633 will make a difference. 1442 01:28:07,507 --> 01:28:09,840 I don't think she's had to train that much up until now. 1443 01:28:09,840 --> 01:28:12,790 I think she's kind of just done her thing and ate cupcakes 1444 01:28:12,790 --> 01:28:14,352 and called it good. 1445 01:28:14,352 --> 01:28:15,810 Whereas now, it's like, if you want 1446 01:28:15,810 --> 01:28:17,520 to start climbing like a harder route, I mean, 1447 01:28:17,520 --> 01:28:18,728 you kind of do have to train. 1448 01:28:22,180 --> 01:28:23,200 I hate cardio. 1449 01:28:23,200 --> 01:28:24,280 I hate running. 1450 01:28:24,280 --> 01:28:25,090 I suck at it. 1451 01:28:25,090 --> 01:28:26,659 But I'm slowly getting convinced that it really 1452 01:28:26,653 --> 01:28:29,732 does help with like overall fitness, I guess. 1453 01:28:29,732 --> 01:28:32,600 [MUSIC PLAYING] 1454 01:28:34,040 --> 01:28:34,930 My name's Nellie. 1455 01:28:34,930 --> 01:28:36,150 I'm Mo's trainer. 1456 01:28:36,150 --> 01:28:38,960 I'm here to take her from 5.9 plus to 5.12. 1457 01:28:38,960 --> 01:28:40,348 Faster, harder. 1458 01:28:40,355 --> 01:28:42,747 Come on, Maureen. 1459 01:28:42,747 --> 01:28:43,985 5.12 doesn't climb itself. 1460 01:28:43,992 --> 01:28:47,274 [MUSIC PLAYING] 1461 01:28:51,210 --> 01:28:52,089 Come on, Maureen. 1462 01:28:52,089 --> 01:28:53,630 Something is clicking and I'm getting 1463 01:28:53,630 --> 01:28:57,516 stronger and more confident. 1464 01:28:57,516 --> 01:28:58,890 I mean, I can ascend it whenever. 1465 01:28:58,890 --> 01:29:00,120 It's just this film is due. 1466 01:29:00,120 --> 01:29:03,823 It's like, fuck, it's due in five days to Reel Rock. 1467 01:29:23,310 --> 01:29:27,270 In Boulder Canyon one-armed climber, Maureen Beck, 1468 01:29:27,270 --> 01:29:31,530 attempts to inspire the world by being the first one-armed woman 1469 01:29:31,530 --> 01:29:36,789 to ascend the notorious difficulty score of 5.12a. 1470 01:29:36,790 --> 01:29:38,490 It's like toes to tits. 1471 01:29:38,490 --> 01:29:39,150 What to do. 1472 01:29:39,150 --> 01:29:40,140 What to do. 1473 01:29:40,140 --> 01:29:43,260 Standing in the way of her most inspirational ascent 1474 01:29:43,260 --> 01:29:46,696 is one slippery, jengus crack. 1475 01:29:46,696 --> 01:29:48,648 [GRUNTING] 1476 01:29:48,648 --> 01:29:50,180 I [BLEEP] up. 1477 01:29:50,180 --> 01:29:54,320 Maureen has fallen from this crack on to her safety string 1478 01:29:54,320 --> 01:29:55,840 time and time again. 1479 01:29:55,840 --> 01:29:58,910 Or, as her partner James Scheri puts it. 1480 01:29:58,910 --> 01:30:02,060 She's whipped off of [BLEEP] a million times. 1481 01:30:02,060 --> 01:30:05,670 When Disabled News 7 got a hold of this story, 1482 01:30:05,670 --> 01:30:08,330 we searched for another amputee could 1483 01:30:08,330 --> 01:30:11,090 speak to the difficulties Maureen is facing 1484 01:30:11,090 --> 01:30:14,880 and possibly lend her a hand. 1485 01:30:14,880 --> 01:30:20,300 Meet Tommy, TC Pro Caldwell, the world's most talented 1486 01:30:20,300 --> 01:30:22,970 disabled climber. 1487 01:30:22,970 --> 01:30:27,230 In 2008, Caldwell severed his index finger 1488 01:30:27,230 --> 01:30:29,917 in a tragic home improvement accident. 1489 01:30:40,061 --> 01:30:42,018 [YELLING] 1490 01:30:42,360 --> 01:30:44,940 After the accident, my life completely changed. 1491 01:30:44,940 --> 01:30:48,510 We sat Tommy down for an exclusive interview. 1492 01:30:48,510 --> 01:30:50,430 Everywhere I went there was a reminder 1493 01:30:50,430 --> 01:30:52,050 of my crippling disability. 1494 01:30:52,050 --> 01:30:53,820 My gloves don't fit anymore. 1495 01:30:53,820 --> 01:30:55,050 I couldn't go bowling. 1496 01:30:55,050 --> 01:30:57,930 If I went to cup a big handful of M&M's, like half of them 1497 01:30:57,930 --> 01:31:01,120 would just fall on the ground. 1498 01:31:01,120 --> 01:31:03,740 Like [BLEEP],, there goes half my M&M's. 1499 01:31:03,740 --> 01:31:06,290 Disabled News 7 arranged for Tommy 1500 01:31:06,290 --> 01:31:10,130 to surprise Maureen back in Boulder canyon. 1501 01:31:10,130 --> 01:31:12,920 When I heard that Maureen Beck was going to try and climb 5.12 1502 01:31:12,920 --> 01:31:14,454 with one arm, I thought to myself, 1503 01:31:14,454 --> 01:31:16,370 here's a girl that's going to face a challenge 1504 01:31:16,370 --> 01:31:18,020 almost as big as mine. 1505 01:31:18,020 --> 01:31:19,190 We brought you a surprise. 1506 01:31:19,190 --> 01:31:21,597 OK, I hope it's cupcakes. 1507 01:31:21,597 --> 01:31:23,180 OK, what do you think the surprise is? 1508 01:31:23,180 --> 01:31:24,200 Probably cupcakes. 1509 01:31:24,200 --> 01:31:27,600 Though initially disappointed about the cupcakes, 1510 01:31:27,600 --> 01:31:30,500 Maureen was shocked to meet her real surprise 1511 01:31:30,500 --> 01:31:33,740 right around the corner. 1512 01:31:33,740 --> 01:31:36,560 Because of their disabilities, a friendship bonds 1513 01:31:36,560 --> 01:31:38,325 quickly between the two. 1514 01:31:38,325 --> 01:31:41,570 Oh hey, it's one of the tribe. 1515 01:31:41,570 --> 01:31:44,240 I came out to Boulder canyon to inspire Maureen 1516 01:31:44,240 --> 01:31:45,960 to achieve the impossible. 1517 01:31:45,960 --> 01:31:47,372 This is your moment, Maureen. 1518 01:31:47,372 --> 01:31:49,580 When I was up on the Dawn Wall, I looked at my stump, 1519 01:31:49,580 --> 01:31:51,530 and I was like, we can do this little buddy. 1520 01:31:51,530 --> 01:31:52,730 Just think like that. 1521 01:31:52,730 --> 01:31:56,930 These horrifically disabled, yet totally inspiring athletes 1522 01:31:56,930 --> 01:32:00,140 are setting the bar quite high, making all of us 1523 01:32:00,140 --> 01:32:03,530 normal people be like, what the [BLEEP].. 1524 01:32:03,530 --> 01:32:05,150 I believe in you, Maureen. 1525 01:32:05,150 --> 01:32:05,780 Come on. 1526 01:32:05,780 --> 01:32:09,020 Could it be possible that disabled athletes are just 1527 01:32:09,020 --> 01:32:11,600 regular athletes, and the rest of us who 1528 01:32:11,600 --> 01:32:14,930 find this so inspiring are just boring [BLEEP] holes 1529 01:32:14,930 --> 01:32:16,430 with no [BLEEP] clue. 1530 01:32:16,430 --> 01:32:17,900 It's now or never. 1531 01:32:17,900 --> 01:32:19,360 You've got to shove that stump in 1532 01:32:19,360 --> 01:32:21,320 deeper than you've ever shoved it before. 1533 01:32:21,320 --> 01:32:24,110 Come on, Maureen, this is your Dawn Wall! 1534 01:32:24,110 --> 01:32:30,990 With Tommy's support, Maureen finally proves, she's 1535 01:32:30,990 --> 01:32:34,050 not that inspiring after all. 1536 01:32:34,050 --> 01:32:36,391 I just like, couldn't pull. 1537 01:32:42,820 --> 01:32:46,736 One, two. 1538 01:32:48,261 --> 01:32:49,760 We're all pretty curious to see what 1539 01:32:49,760 --> 01:32:51,929 would happen if we tie Tommy's arm back 1540 01:32:51,929 --> 01:32:53,220 and he could try it one handed. 1541 01:32:55,960 --> 01:32:58,137 Feels impossible. 1542 01:32:58,137 --> 01:33:00,470 Part of me was hoping he'd unleash some of his Dawn Wall 1543 01:33:00,470 --> 01:33:03,290 on that shit and just figure it out. 1544 01:33:03,290 --> 01:33:03,790 Fuck. 1545 01:33:08,410 --> 01:33:09,590 That's impossible. 1546 01:33:12,650 --> 01:33:18,669 Turns out, even a 5.15 climber can't climb 5.12 with one hand. 1547 01:33:18,669 --> 01:33:20,210 Yeah, I have no idea how you do that. 1548 01:33:20,210 --> 01:33:20,810 OK, good. 1549 01:33:20,810 --> 01:33:21,680 Good. 1550 01:33:21,680 --> 01:33:23,420 I'd be a little said if you like flashed 1551 01:33:23,420 --> 01:33:24,962 my project with one arm. 1552 01:33:24,962 --> 01:33:26,936 I was like, this is impossible. 1553 01:33:30,910 --> 01:33:33,820 It's easy to let a project like this stress you to death. 1554 01:33:33,820 --> 01:33:36,220 But I think if you just remember why you went up 1555 01:33:36,220 --> 01:33:40,761 there the very first time to try it, eventually, maybe, 1556 01:33:40,761 --> 01:33:41,260 you'll send. 1557 01:33:48,840 --> 01:33:52,290 I tried to really quiet my mind. 1558 01:33:52,290 --> 01:33:53,903 And I just think, don't screw up. 1559 01:33:53,903 --> 01:33:54,548 Stay focused. 1560 01:33:54,548 --> 01:33:55,536 Breathe deep. 1561 01:34:32,550 --> 01:34:38,160 I finally get the crux and I'm just pumped out of my mind. 1562 01:34:38,160 --> 01:34:40,320 I was definitely thinking, this is my chance 1563 01:34:40,320 --> 01:34:42,390 to never have to come up here again. 1564 01:34:58,430 --> 01:35:01,757 Somehow, I got the jug and just, I couldn't believe it. 1565 01:35:01,757 --> 01:35:03,590 It was definitely just like, don't screw up. 1566 01:35:03,590 --> 01:35:04,215 Don't screw up. 1567 01:35:09,050 --> 01:35:13,042 [MUSIC PLAYING] 1568 01:35:23,466 --> 01:35:24,917 Oh my god. 1569 01:35:30,008 --> 01:35:33,501 Holy shit. 1570 01:35:33,501 --> 01:35:34,998 I just did it. 1571 01:35:34,998 --> 01:35:39,988 James, I just climbed 5.12. 1572 01:35:39,988 --> 01:35:41,485 Ow. 1573 01:35:41,485 --> 01:35:43,380 Do you need cupcakes for that? 1574 01:35:43,380 --> 01:35:46,500 Yeah, I could force down a cupcake. 1575 01:35:46,500 --> 01:35:49,590 We've got Oscar-- 1576 01:35:49,590 --> 01:35:53,310 I think if it hadn't been for the 50 tries leading up 1577 01:35:53,310 --> 01:35:55,400 to the send, it wouldn't have felt as good. 1578 01:35:55,400 --> 01:35:56,000 It wouldn't have meant as much. 1579 01:35:56,000 --> 01:35:57,957 It would've just been another rock climb. 1580 01:35:57,957 --> 01:35:59,790 Like this thing was my best friend and worst 1581 01:35:59,790 --> 01:36:01,120 enemy for five months. 1582 01:36:01,120 --> 01:36:04,780 And now it's over. 1583 01:36:05,158 --> 01:36:07,106 This is my 8:30 in the morning send beer. 1584 01:36:07,450 --> 01:36:09,030 It's delicious. 1585 01:36:09,034 --> 01:36:11,596 Hey, Tommy Caldwell couldn't do this route. 1586 01:36:11,699 --> 01:36:13,195 Hey, Tommy Caldwell, suck my stump. 1587 01:36:13,246 --> 01:36:16,596 [MUSIC PLAYING] 1588 01:36:17,305 --> 01:37:17,869 Support us and become VIP member to remove all ads from www.OpenSubtitles.org 119065

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