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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:00,735 --> 00:00:03,769 ♪♪ 2 00:00:10,745 --> 00:00:13,746 ♪♪ 3 00:00:16,784 --> 00:00:19,852 captions paid for by discovery communications 4 00:00:46,113 --> 00:00:49,181 ♪♪ 5 00:00:53,354 --> 00:00:55,354 narrator: In the early days of basketball, 6 00:00:55,356 --> 00:00:58,157 players used a soccer ball to play the game. 7 00:00:58,159 --> 00:01:02,194 In 1894, a special basketball was designed. 8 00:01:02,196 --> 00:01:04,596 It was laced and larger, with a circumference 9 00:01:04,598 --> 00:01:08,167 that was about 4 inches greater than the soccer ball. 10 00:01:08,169 --> 00:01:11,003 For players, the new ball was a game changer. 11 00:01:14,642 --> 00:01:16,575 Basketballs have evolved, 12 00:01:16,577 --> 00:01:20,779 but one manufacturer still makes them the old-fashioned way. 13 00:01:20,781 --> 00:01:22,681 These laced brown leather balls 14 00:01:22,683 --> 00:01:25,384 honor the beginnings of the game. 15 00:01:25,386 --> 00:01:27,519 To make this traditional basketball, 16 00:01:27,521 --> 00:01:32,558 a craftsperson cuts eight panels out of tough american cowhide. 17 00:01:32,560 --> 00:01:34,126 These are rough cuts. 18 00:01:34,128 --> 00:01:36,528 The shape will now be more precisely defined. 19 00:01:38,332 --> 00:01:41,667 He places a sharp steel die on one of the panels. 20 00:01:44,605 --> 00:01:47,039 Using a tool known as a clicker press, 21 00:01:47,041 --> 00:01:50,242 he applies pressure to drive the die through the leather 22 00:01:50,244 --> 00:01:52,845 and punch out the shape, cookie-cutter style. 23 00:01:52,847 --> 00:01:56,482 ♪♪ 24 00:01:56,484 --> 00:01:59,585 he now cuts strips of nylon to a workable size 25 00:01:59,587 --> 00:02:02,721 using a utility knife. 26 00:02:02,723 --> 00:02:07,593 The craftsperson then stacks up a dozen of the nylon strips. 27 00:02:07,595 --> 00:02:11,430 Using the clicker press and same die, he cuts out patterns. 28 00:02:11,432 --> 00:02:13,632 Because nylon is softer than leather, 29 00:02:13,634 --> 00:02:17,436 he can punch out many more at once. 30 00:02:17,438 --> 00:02:20,472 He places one of the nylon patterns on the underside 31 00:02:20,474 --> 00:02:23,208 of a leather one and stitches them together. 32 00:02:26,113 --> 00:02:28,514 The nylon backing stabilizes the leather, 33 00:02:28,516 --> 00:02:31,917 preventing stretching. 34 00:02:31,919 --> 00:02:35,754 He now punches lace holes and notches in the nylon-padded 35 00:02:35,756 --> 00:02:37,789 leather panel. 36 00:02:40,127 --> 00:02:43,395 Using a template, the craftsperson locates the spot 37 00:02:43,397 --> 00:02:46,665 for an air-valve hole and nicks it with a sharp tool. 38 00:02:46,667 --> 00:02:51,069 ♪♪ 39 00:02:51,071 --> 00:02:55,407 he places a punch on the nick and strikes it with a hammer 40 00:02:55,409 --> 00:02:56,942 to cut out the air-valve hole. 41 00:02:59,213 --> 00:03:03,882 He clamps a stamp of a company logo in a heated press. 42 00:03:03,884 --> 00:03:07,920 As the stamp heats up, he moves it into a downward position 43 00:03:07,922 --> 00:03:12,291 and then slides the leather panel under it. 44 00:03:12,293 --> 00:03:13,825 He lowers the hot stamp, 45 00:03:13,827 --> 00:03:16,795 and it burns the company logo into the leather. 46 00:03:16,797 --> 00:03:20,299 ♪♪ 47 00:03:20,301 --> 00:03:23,869 next, with the liner side up, he sews the basketball panels 48 00:03:23,871 --> 00:03:28,273 together, two at a time at first. 49 00:03:28,275 --> 00:03:31,343 Doing this right takes practice. 50 00:03:31,345 --> 00:03:34,413 The craftsperson then trims the polyester thread 51 00:03:34,415 --> 00:03:37,482 and then pounds the thick seam flat with a hammer. 52 00:03:37,484 --> 00:03:41,520 ♪♪ 53 00:03:41,522 --> 00:03:44,256 he sews vinyl reinforcements to the two panels 54 00:03:44,258 --> 00:03:46,291 that have lace holes. 55 00:03:46,293 --> 00:03:49,895 This will give the laced area of the basketball more structure. 56 00:03:52,700 --> 00:03:54,866 The stitching will also frame the lace holes 57 00:03:54,868 --> 00:03:59,671 from the leather side to define and accentuate the lacing. 58 00:03:59,673 --> 00:04:01,740 He adds another strip of vinyl. 59 00:04:01,742 --> 00:04:03,976 This one will protect the inflated bladder 60 00:04:03,978 --> 00:04:06,411 inside the basketball. 61 00:04:06,413 --> 00:04:10,082 He assembles the panels four at a time. 62 00:04:10,084 --> 00:04:13,185 He leaves the section around the lace holes open to provide 63 00:04:13,187 --> 00:04:16,455 an entry point for the inflatable bladder. 64 00:04:16,457 --> 00:04:18,790 He stitches the two halves together, 65 00:04:18,792 --> 00:04:21,893 again working from the inside of the ball. 66 00:04:21,895 --> 00:04:27,065 This completes the basketball's outer casing. 67 00:04:27,067 --> 00:04:29,801 The next craftsperson places the basketball casing 68 00:04:29,803 --> 00:04:32,871 on a steel post and pulls and tugs the casing 69 00:04:32,873 --> 00:04:34,940 to turn it right side out. 70 00:04:37,611 --> 00:04:39,878 He now inserts the synthetic rubber bladder 71 00:04:39,880 --> 00:04:42,948 into the basketball. 72 00:04:42,950 --> 00:04:46,184 He manipulates it so that the bladder's air valve lines up 73 00:04:46,186 --> 00:04:48,587 with the corresponding hole in the leather. 74 00:04:48,589 --> 00:04:52,658 ♪♪ 75 00:04:52,660 --> 00:04:55,494 using needle-nose pliers, he grabs the air valve 76 00:04:55,496 --> 00:04:57,696 and pulls it through the hole. 77 00:04:57,698 --> 00:05:00,932 The craftsperson then rearranges the inner flap so that 78 00:05:00,934 --> 00:05:04,336 it's in a position to protect the bladder from the lacing. 79 00:05:04,338 --> 00:05:06,538 He partially inflates the bladder. 80 00:05:08,409 --> 00:05:12,511 Using a thick brass needle, he pulls a rawhide strip 81 00:05:12,513 --> 00:05:15,480 through the holes to neatly lace up the opening. 82 00:05:15,482 --> 00:05:18,550 ♪♪ 83 00:05:20,587 --> 00:05:23,388 he then fully pressurizes the basketball, 84 00:05:23,390 --> 00:05:24,656 and the pressure from the bladder 85 00:05:24,658 --> 00:05:27,159 holds the laces in place. 86 00:05:27,161 --> 00:05:30,429 ♪♪ 87 00:05:30,431 --> 00:05:34,499 he simply clips the end of the lace and tucks it in. 88 00:05:34,501 --> 00:05:36,335 A replica of the original, 89 00:05:36,337 --> 00:05:39,571 this leather basketball is ready to bounce back. 90 00:05:54,421 --> 00:05:56,321 Narrator: Floodgates are sliding gates 91 00:05:56,323 --> 00:05:59,691 that are engineered to resist rushing floodwaters. 92 00:05:59,693 --> 00:06:03,061 When installed at wastewater or water treatment plants 93 00:06:03,063 --> 00:06:06,565 they can be used to control the outflow and inflow of water 94 00:06:06,567 --> 00:06:08,934 in order to make operations more efficient. 95 00:06:08,936 --> 00:06:12,571 That's why floodgates aren't just for emergency situations. 96 00:06:12,573 --> 00:06:16,641 ♪♪ 97 00:06:16,643 --> 00:06:19,478 sliding floodgates close to varying degrees 98 00:06:19,480 --> 00:06:24,449 to reduce the flow of water or stop it completely. 99 00:06:24,451 --> 00:06:25,817 Making these sliding gates 100 00:06:25,819 --> 00:06:29,154 starts with a stainless-steel plate. 101 00:06:29,156 --> 00:06:32,624 A crane lifts it over to a conveyor in front of a chamber 102 00:06:32,626 --> 00:06:36,395 that has a laser cutter inside. 103 00:06:36,397 --> 00:06:38,897 The crane releases its suctioning grip, 104 00:06:38,899 --> 00:06:41,733 and the conveyor takes it into the chamber. 105 00:06:41,735 --> 00:06:44,302 It's dark inside, but the laser doesn't need 106 00:06:44,304 --> 00:06:48,407 overhead lighting to do its work. 107 00:06:48,409 --> 00:06:50,575 Computer software guides the laser 108 00:06:50,577 --> 00:06:53,678 as it cuts out parts for the floodgate frame. 109 00:06:53,680 --> 00:06:57,516 It also precisely locates holes for assembly purposes. 110 00:06:59,153 --> 00:07:02,187 Workers stack the laser-cut pieces and number them 111 00:07:02,189 --> 00:07:07,592 to categorize them for the next operation, called forming. 112 00:07:07,594 --> 00:07:11,029 A worker inserts a part in a press brake numerous times 113 00:07:11,031 --> 00:07:14,132 to make multiple bends. 114 00:07:14,134 --> 00:07:17,068 He shapes this particular piece into the bottom frame 115 00:07:17,070 --> 00:07:18,537 of the floodgate. 116 00:07:18,539 --> 00:07:21,573 ♪♪ 117 00:07:23,343 --> 00:07:26,211 after forming the side frames the same way, 118 00:07:26,213 --> 00:07:28,680 a worker evenly spaces reinforcements 119 00:07:28,682 --> 00:07:32,317 along the entire length of them. 120 00:07:32,319 --> 00:07:35,020 He tack-welds the reinforcements to the frame. 121 00:07:37,391 --> 00:07:39,124 Using a carpenter's square, 122 00:07:39,126 --> 00:07:44,196 he measures the angle of the reinforcement to the side frame. 123 00:07:44,198 --> 00:07:46,198 Satisfied that each reinforcement 124 00:07:46,200 --> 00:07:48,667 is perfectly perpendicular to the frame, 125 00:07:48,669 --> 00:07:51,136 he does the full welds. 126 00:07:51,138 --> 00:07:53,905 Then the worker joins the two side frames 127 00:07:53,907 --> 00:07:56,975 and the bottom rail and welds the structure together. 128 00:07:56,977 --> 00:08:00,345 ♪♪ 129 00:08:00,347 --> 00:08:02,881 he positions a stainless-steel ceiling frame 130 00:08:02,883 --> 00:08:07,552 at the midpoint of the structure and welds it in place. 131 00:08:07,554 --> 00:08:09,988 Another worker tucks a polyethylene strip 132 00:08:09,990 --> 00:08:12,190 into the frame to seal it. 133 00:08:12,192 --> 00:08:13,959 The strip also has a groove in it 134 00:08:13,961 --> 00:08:17,095 to accommodate the gate's sliding door. 135 00:08:17,097 --> 00:08:20,632 He clamps the strip to the frame and then taps it with a hammer 136 00:08:20,634 --> 00:08:23,268 to entrench it more firmly into the frame. 137 00:08:26,206 --> 00:08:28,440 He drills through holes in the side frame 138 00:08:28,442 --> 00:08:32,911 to make corresponding holes in the polyethylene strip 139 00:08:32,913 --> 00:08:35,347 and inserts the bolts in the holes. 140 00:08:38,051 --> 00:08:39,851 He screws nuts onto the ends 141 00:08:39,853 --> 00:08:42,521 that protrude from the outside of the frame. 142 00:08:42,523 --> 00:08:45,557 ♪♪ 143 00:08:47,861 --> 00:08:50,195 he now inserts a polyethylene strip 144 00:08:50,197 --> 00:08:52,430 in the horizontal ceiling frame, 145 00:08:52,432 --> 00:08:54,766 and he marks the strip to indicate the location 146 00:08:54,768 --> 00:08:57,035 for bolt holes. 147 00:08:57,037 --> 00:08:59,971 He removes the strip and drills tapered holes 148 00:08:59,973 --> 00:09:01,206 for countersunk bolts 149 00:09:01,208 --> 00:09:04,910 in the locations he's marked. 150 00:09:04,912 --> 00:09:08,446 He inserts a silicone strip in a recess in the seal, 151 00:09:10,183 --> 00:09:12,284 and he bolts it all together. 152 00:09:12,286 --> 00:09:15,353 ♪♪ 153 00:09:15,355 --> 00:09:16,988 once the frame is complete, 154 00:09:16,990 --> 00:09:20,392 another worker installs the floodgate's sliding door. 155 00:09:23,330 --> 00:09:27,165 It will be raised and lowered using crank-operated gears. 156 00:09:29,069 --> 00:09:32,370 The next worker closes off an opening used for an unneeded 157 00:09:32,372 --> 00:09:36,141 drive gear with silicone glue and a plastic stopper. 158 00:09:36,143 --> 00:09:41,379 He slides a washer and bearing on the center shaft opening. 159 00:09:41,381 --> 00:09:43,648 He places the upper housing on the bottom one 160 00:09:43,650 --> 00:09:47,218 to enclose the gears. 161 00:09:47,220 --> 00:09:51,423 He secures the gearbox housing with numerous long bolts. 162 00:09:51,425 --> 00:09:54,459 ♪♪ 163 00:09:57,030 --> 00:10:00,098 next, powerful ridged rollers press a thread 164 00:10:00,100 --> 00:10:03,835 into a very long stainless steel rod. 165 00:10:03,837 --> 00:10:07,038 This rod will serve as the floodgate's operating stem. 166 00:10:09,343 --> 00:10:11,543 It's ready for installation. 167 00:10:11,545 --> 00:10:14,746 A worker bolts one end of the stem to the slide gate 168 00:10:14,748 --> 00:10:18,516 while the other worker threads the gearbox onto the other end. 169 00:10:18,518 --> 00:10:21,553 ♪♪ 170 00:10:25,425 --> 00:10:27,592 with the crank not yet installed, 171 00:10:27,594 --> 00:10:29,995 he uses a drill to spin the gears 172 00:10:29,997 --> 00:10:33,064 and test the operation of the sliding floodgate. 173 00:10:33,066 --> 00:10:36,468 ♪♪ 174 00:10:36,470 --> 00:10:40,505 he confirms that the floodgate meets design specifications. 175 00:10:43,310 --> 00:10:46,878 Then workers flood the surface below the floodgate with water 176 00:10:46,880 --> 00:10:50,115 and verify that nothing seeps through. 177 00:10:50,117 --> 00:10:52,984 This proves that the floodgate is watertight 178 00:10:52,986 --> 00:10:57,055 and ready to hold strong in the event of an emergency. 179 00:11:12,139 --> 00:11:15,340 Narrator: Before artists put their brush to their blank canvas, 180 00:11:15,342 --> 00:11:18,476 they have to choose what type of canvas to use -- 181 00:11:18,478 --> 00:11:21,312 rudimentary, economical cotton or finer, 182 00:11:21,314 --> 00:11:25,150 more expensive linen, unstretched, or pre-stretched? 183 00:11:25,152 --> 00:11:28,153 If pre-stretched, affixed to a wooden frame 184 00:11:28,155 --> 00:11:30,055 or glued to a wooden panel? 185 00:11:32,359 --> 00:11:36,594 This type of artist canvas is made of fine-weave linen. 186 00:11:36,596 --> 00:11:39,898 It's stretched over and affixed to a wood panel. 187 00:11:39,900 --> 00:11:42,400 The hard backing prevents the linen from flexing 188 00:11:42,402 --> 00:11:44,736 under the paintbrush. 189 00:11:44,738 --> 00:11:47,405 The face of the panel is made of a quarter-inch-thick 190 00:11:47,407 --> 00:11:49,174 baltic birch. 191 00:11:49,176 --> 00:11:51,142 After cutting a piece with the dimensions of 192 00:11:51,144 --> 00:11:52,711 the finished canvas, 193 00:11:52,713 --> 00:11:57,949 a worker cuts pieces of sturdier basswood for the cradle. 194 00:11:57,951 --> 00:12:01,052 After cutting a long strip in the required width, 195 00:12:01,054 --> 00:12:02,754 he measures and marks the lengths 196 00:12:02,756 --> 00:12:04,789 of the cradle's five parts, 197 00:12:04,791 --> 00:12:10,562 which include four perimeter pieces and a cross brace. 198 00:12:10,564 --> 00:12:12,664 Then he cuts the parts. 199 00:12:12,666 --> 00:12:15,667 ♪♪ 200 00:12:20,207 --> 00:12:23,274 he miters the edges of the perimeter pieces. 201 00:12:23,276 --> 00:12:26,778 That means cutting the ends at a 45-degree angle, 202 00:12:26,780 --> 00:12:30,148 so the pieces mate when assembled into a rectangle. 203 00:12:30,150 --> 00:12:33,218 ♪♪ 204 00:12:35,322 --> 00:12:38,256 to assemble the cradle, a worker spreads wood glue 205 00:12:38,258 --> 00:12:41,159 on the mitered edges of the perimeter pieces, 206 00:12:41,161 --> 00:12:43,728 then joins them to form a rectangle, 207 00:12:43,730 --> 00:12:46,631 clamping two of the corners to a 90-degree block 208 00:12:46,633 --> 00:12:50,034 to ensure the angles are perfectly square. 209 00:12:50,036 --> 00:12:54,139 He reinforces the corner joints with v-shaped nails. 210 00:12:54,141 --> 00:12:58,209 ♪♪ 211 00:12:58,211 --> 00:13:00,512 he removes the clamps and squares 212 00:13:00,514 --> 00:13:03,381 and glues the cross brace across the middle. 213 00:13:03,383 --> 00:13:06,918 ♪♪ 214 00:13:06,920 --> 00:13:09,187 once the worker checks that the cross brace 215 00:13:09,189 --> 00:13:10,822 is installed squarely, 216 00:13:10,824 --> 00:13:12,657 he nails it to the perimeter. 217 00:13:15,328 --> 00:13:18,830 He applies a line of wood glue on top of the cradle perimeter 218 00:13:18,832 --> 00:13:22,167 and cross brace. 219 00:13:22,169 --> 00:13:25,203 Then he places the panel onto the cradle. 220 00:13:27,941 --> 00:13:30,942 The worker sets clamps all around the perimeter, 221 00:13:30,944 --> 00:13:35,046 then puts the cradle aside overnight to let the glue dry. 222 00:13:35,048 --> 00:13:38,116 ♪♪ 223 00:13:41,188 --> 00:13:45,490 the next day, the worker sands any panel overhang flat, 224 00:13:45,492 --> 00:13:48,560 rendering the edge of the panel flush with the cradle. 225 00:13:48,562 --> 00:13:51,596 ♪♪ 226 00:13:53,600 --> 00:13:55,600 they burn the manufacturing information 227 00:13:55,602 --> 00:13:57,602 into the back of the finished panel. 228 00:14:00,640 --> 00:14:03,975 The linen they're using for this canvas is portrait grade, 229 00:14:03,977 --> 00:14:06,678 the finest and smoothest weave. 230 00:14:06,680 --> 00:14:10,014 It's been primed with linseed oil to allow oil paint 231 00:14:10,016 --> 00:14:16,321 to penetrate enough to adhere but not absorb into the fabric. 232 00:14:16,323 --> 00:14:19,090 He measures and marks the wood panel's dimensions, 233 00:14:19,092 --> 00:14:20,992 adding about 4 inches all around 234 00:14:20,994 --> 00:14:25,096 to have extra linen to wrap around the cradle. 235 00:14:25,098 --> 00:14:28,266 Then he cuts along the lines. 236 00:14:28,268 --> 00:14:32,103 The worker centers the cradled panel upside down on the linen 237 00:14:32,105 --> 00:14:34,305 and traces a line around it. 238 00:14:34,307 --> 00:14:38,476 ♪♪ 239 00:14:38,478 --> 00:14:41,846 he flips the panel right-side up and coats the surface 240 00:14:41,848 --> 00:14:45,216 with special ph-neutral archival glue 241 00:14:45,218 --> 00:14:47,919 because ordinary adhesives contain acid 242 00:14:47,921 --> 00:14:50,355 which degrades the linen over time. 243 00:14:50,357 --> 00:14:53,591 ♪♪ 244 00:14:53,593 --> 00:14:56,160 he flips the panel upside down again, 245 00:14:56,162 --> 00:14:58,997 carefully positions it within the trace lines 246 00:14:58,999 --> 00:15:01,799 and presses the panel firmly against the linen. 247 00:15:01,801 --> 00:15:04,869 ♪♪ 248 00:15:04,871 --> 00:15:08,139 he mounts the assembly on a stretching machine. 249 00:15:08,141 --> 00:15:10,708 Canvases must always be stretched 250 00:15:10,710 --> 00:15:12,877 to prevent contraction and expansion 251 00:15:12,879 --> 00:15:16,581 due to changes in humidity. 252 00:15:16,583 --> 00:15:19,183 Starting with the longest sides first, 253 00:15:19,185 --> 00:15:21,319 the machine yanks the linen tight 254 00:15:21,321 --> 00:15:24,656 and folds it over the edge of the cradle. 255 00:15:24,658 --> 00:15:28,092 A line of staples secure the stretched linen to the wood. 256 00:15:30,897 --> 00:15:33,965 After stretching and stapling both long sides, 257 00:15:33,967 --> 00:15:38,002 the worker folds the corners neatly and staples them as well. 258 00:15:38,004 --> 00:15:41,372 ♪♪ 259 00:15:41,374 --> 00:15:45,076 then he rotates the canvas to stretch the short sides. 260 00:15:45,078 --> 00:15:48,112 ♪♪ 261 00:15:50,784 --> 00:15:53,151 once those are stretched and stapled, 262 00:15:53,153 --> 00:15:57,689 the wood-panel canvas is finished, 263 00:15:57,691 --> 00:16:02,126 and now it's the ready recipient of artistic inspiration. 264 00:16:17,277 --> 00:16:20,044 Narrator: The oldest shoe archaeologists have ever found 265 00:16:20,046 --> 00:16:23,481 is a 5,500-year-old leather hide moccasin 266 00:16:23,483 --> 00:16:25,950 with leather-cord laces. 267 00:16:25,952 --> 00:16:29,387 Today we don't have to go hunt an animal to lace our shoes. 268 00:16:29,389 --> 00:16:31,656 We can buy our shoelaces ready-made 269 00:16:31,658 --> 00:16:33,491 in a variety of materials, 270 00:16:33,493 --> 00:16:36,227 styles, lengths and colors. 271 00:16:36,229 --> 00:16:39,530 ♪♪ 272 00:16:39,532 --> 00:16:43,134 this company produces shoelaces and shoelace-type drawstrings 273 00:16:43,136 --> 00:16:45,169 in a wide range of materials, 274 00:16:45,171 --> 00:16:49,273 including cotton, rayon and acrylic. 275 00:16:49,275 --> 00:16:52,610 This run is producing polyester shoelaces. 276 00:16:52,612 --> 00:16:55,880 A worker installs cones of fine polyester thread 277 00:16:55,882 --> 00:16:57,582 on what's called a creel, 278 00:16:57,584 --> 00:17:00,351 which feeds the bobbin-winding machines. 279 00:17:00,353 --> 00:17:03,021 She groups the strands from eight cones 280 00:17:03,023 --> 00:17:05,623 and feeds them through one side of one machine 281 00:17:05,625 --> 00:17:07,625 and onto a bobbin. 282 00:17:07,627 --> 00:17:10,628 Then she groups the strands from another eight cones 283 00:17:10,630 --> 00:17:13,197 and feeds them through the other side of the machine 284 00:17:13,199 --> 00:17:15,433 onto a second bobbin. 285 00:17:15,435 --> 00:17:17,001 Each group of eight strands 286 00:17:17,003 --> 00:17:20,438 will produce one thicker polyester thread. 287 00:17:20,440 --> 00:17:23,708 She programs the machine to wind a specific length of it. 288 00:17:25,512 --> 00:17:28,446 Each cone holds enough fine thread to wind 289 00:17:28,448 --> 00:17:32,483 a 71-mile-long thick thread. 290 00:17:32,485 --> 00:17:35,720 For this particular shoelace, the machine is programmed 291 00:17:35,722 --> 00:17:38,956 to wind 8,200 feet of thick thread per bobbin. 292 00:17:42,262 --> 00:17:44,829 Another worker installs 20 of those bobbins 293 00:17:44,831 --> 00:17:47,698 on a braiding machine. 294 00:17:47,700 --> 00:17:50,401 For each one, she passes the end of the thread 295 00:17:50,403 --> 00:17:52,904 through three eyelets, 296 00:17:52,906 --> 00:17:56,340 the second of which regulates the tension of the thread. 297 00:17:56,342 --> 00:17:59,377 ♪♪ 298 00:18:02,882 --> 00:18:06,117 she gathers half the threads and ties knots in them 299 00:18:06,119 --> 00:18:11,055 so that they'll catch when she feeds them into the machine. 300 00:18:11,057 --> 00:18:13,424 She starts up the braiding machine. 301 00:18:13,426 --> 00:18:15,526 It draws in the knotted threads, 302 00:18:15,528 --> 00:18:18,129 which pull in the unknotted ones. 303 00:18:18,131 --> 00:18:20,765 Then the machine begins braiding a continuous 304 00:18:20,767 --> 00:18:23,034 round shoelace cord. 305 00:18:23,036 --> 00:18:27,071 These wheels apply tension to pull any loose braids tighter 306 00:18:27,073 --> 00:18:29,574 so that the corrected diameter is uniform. 307 00:18:31,544 --> 00:18:34,278 The finished cord, which is about a mile long, 308 00:18:34,280 --> 00:18:37,548 collects in a barrel. 309 00:18:37,550 --> 00:18:39,517 Some shoelaces are made of knitted, 310 00:18:39,519 --> 00:18:41,752 rather than braided, cord. 311 00:18:41,754 --> 00:18:45,256 The cones of thread feed the knitting machine directly. 312 00:18:45,258 --> 00:18:48,126 The machine's four latch needles can perform two types 313 00:18:48,128 --> 00:18:50,661 of knitting stitches to produce round cord. 314 00:18:53,433 --> 00:18:56,234 Once the knitted, or braided, cord is ready, 315 00:18:56,236 --> 00:18:59,670 a worker adjusts four metal pegs of a winding device 316 00:18:59,672 --> 00:19:02,907 to the shoelace length they're making. 317 00:19:02,909 --> 00:19:07,712 Then she winds the cord around the pegs up to 250 times, 318 00:19:07,714 --> 00:19:09,580 depending on the cord diameter. 319 00:19:12,152 --> 00:19:16,721 She cuts the end and ties the cords together 320 00:19:16,723 --> 00:19:18,789 so that she can easily transfer them 321 00:19:18,791 --> 00:19:20,992 to what's called a tipping machine. 322 00:19:20,994 --> 00:19:24,028 ♪♪ 323 00:19:31,304 --> 00:19:33,237 she runs the center of each cord 324 00:19:33,239 --> 00:19:36,340 over an acetone-saturated felt pad, 325 00:19:36,342 --> 00:19:38,843 then inserts it in the machine's die. 326 00:19:38,845 --> 00:19:43,114 The die wraps a piece of acetate film tightly around the cord, 327 00:19:43,116 --> 00:19:44,849 then cuts it in the middle, 328 00:19:44,851 --> 00:19:47,118 producing a shoelace with a stiff tip, 329 00:19:47,120 --> 00:19:49,687 called an aglet, on each end. 330 00:19:51,624 --> 00:19:54,992 This press applies a nickel-plated steel tip, 331 00:19:54,994 --> 00:19:58,729 a kind used on bag drawstrings. 332 00:19:58,731 --> 00:20:02,833 The worker manually positions two tips directly on the cord 333 00:20:02,835 --> 00:20:04,802 with a slight gap in between them. 334 00:20:07,574 --> 00:20:10,408 She activates the press to force them on, 335 00:20:10,410 --> 00:20:12,343 then cuts the cord in the gap. 336 00:20:14,581 --> 00:20:17,281 This factory also makes rickrack, 337 00:20:17,283 --> 00:20:21,219 a flat zigzag trim that's sewn onto clothing. 338 00:20:21,221 --> 00:20:25,323 These rickrack-braiding machines are 120 years old. 339 00:20:25,325 --> 00:20:30,061 Each one holds from 13 to 73 bobbins of thread. 340 00:20:30,063 --> 00:20:34,165 The more bobbins used, the wider the rickrack. 341 00:20:34,167 --> 00:20:36,934 There are two ways to make multicolored rickrack 342 00:20:36,936 --> 00:20:39,136 or braided shoelace cord. 343 00:20:39,138 --> 00:20:41,539 Mount different shades of solid color bobbins 344 00:20:41,541 --> 00:20:43,107 on the braiding machine 345 00:20:43,109 --> 00:20:46,544 or wind multicolored thread on each bobbin. 346 00:20:46,546 --> 00:20:49,247 And for multicolored knitted shoelace cord, 347 00:20:49,249 --> 00:20:52,650 mount different shades of solid-color thread cones 348 00:20:52,652 --> 00:20:55,386 or multicolored thread on each cone. 349 00:20:55,388 --> 00:20:57,688 To produce different shapes and sizes, 350 00:20:57,690 --> 00:21:00,458 this manufacturer uses different types of braiding 351 00:21:00,460 --> 00:21:01,792 and knitting machines, 352 00:21:01,794 --> 00:21:04,028 varying the number of bobbins or cones 353 00:21:04,030 --> 00:21:06,864 from eight to as many as 73. 354 00:21:06,866 --> 00:21:09,400 An even number produces a round shoelace. 355 00:21:09,402 --> 00:21:11,769 An odd number produces a flat one. 356 00:21:11,771 --> 00:21:13,671 With so many possibilities, 357 00:21:13,673 --> 00:21:17,008 shoelaces can be fashionable as well as functional. 28221

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