Would you like to inspect the original subtitles? These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated:
1
00:00:06,000 --> 00:00:12,074
Advertise your product or brand here
contact www.OpenSubtitles.org today
2
00:00:16,430 --> 00:00:20,100
Welcome to the thirteenth annual Reel Rock Film Tour.
3
00:00:22,512 --> 00:00:24,270
Reel Rock is presented by:
4
00:00:24,520 --> 00:00:25,850
The North Face.
5
00:00:26,310 --> 00:00:33,030
Since 1966, we’ve seen walls not as obstacles but as opportunities.
6
00:00:33,030 --> 00:00:36,320
A chance to explore what we believe to be possible.
7
00:00:36,613 --> 00:00:42,250
A vertical proving ground for grit, perseverance, and determination.
8
00:00:42,250 --> 00:00:46,362
Walls can be mirrors that reflect the best versions of ourselves.
9
00:00:46,630 --> 00:00:50,064
Walls don’t divide us, they bring us together.
10
00:00:50,250 --> 00:00:52,993
Walls are meant for climbing.
11
00:00:54,432 --> 00:00:55,720
I'm starting to get sort of,
12
00:00:55,720 --> 00:00:56,180
Stoked?
13
00:00:56,173 --> 00:00:57,092
sort of inspired.
14
00:00:58,430 --> 00:01:02,930
This year, Reel Rock brings you 4 new films from around the globe
15
00:01:02,930 --> 00:01:03,770
featuring:
16
00:01:04,140 --> 00:01:07,560
An expedition to the remote, frozen towers of Antarctica.
17
00:01:07,560 --> 00:01:08,810
These are huge mountains.
18
00:01:08,810 --> 00:01:10,270
This is insane!
19
00:01:10,270 --> 00:01:10,760
Rock!
20
00:01:12,440 --> 00:01:14,500
A hot lap through the world of speed climbing,
21
00:01:15,570 --> 00:01:17,360
our next Olympic sport.
22
00:01:17,360 --> 00:01:21,030
You're just racing to see who can get to the top the fastest.
23
00:01:21,030 --> 00:01:25,830
A pilgrimage to the desert of Jordan, a Middle Eastern, big-wall climbing Mecca.
24
00:01:25,830 --> 00:01:30,290
Eli kept talking about this place called Wadi Rum and this rock climb he'd been working on.
25
00:01:30,290 --> 00:01:31,040
Rock!
26
00:01:32,630 --> 00:01:35,720
And a wild ride to the limits of climbing
27
00:01:36,550 --> 00:01:37,630
with Adam Ondra.
28
00:01:37,630 --> 00:01:42,260
My goal is to flash 5.15, first try or nothing.
29
00:01:42,890 --> 00:01:44,930
Reel Rock 13 is sponsored by:
30
00:01:45,100 --> 00:01:46,440
Black Diamond --
31
00:01:47,730 --> 00:01:50,860
making the best mountain equipment for over fifty years
32
00:01:51,440 --> 00:01:53,900
to help Adam Ondra push standards
33
00:01:54,900 --> 00:01:57,990
and Claire Buhrfeind chase an Olympic dream.
34
00:01:58,570 --> 00:02:01,490
Live. Climb. Repeat.
35
00:02:01,490 --> 00:02:02,490
Black Diamond.
36
00:02:02,990 --> 00:02:03,790
Yeti --
37
00:02:04,950 --> 00:02:07,710
making coolers and accessories that are rugged,
38
00:02:09,250 --> 00:02:10,750
dependable,
39
00:02:12,130 --> 00:02:13,670
and expedition tested.
40
00:02:15,130 --> 00:02:17,420
Yeti. Built for the wild.
41
00:02:19,130 --> 00:02:22,140
Reel Rock 13 is also supported by:
42
00:02:22,140 --> 00:02:26,810
Climbing Magazine -- now offering instruction through online classes.
43
00:02:28,560 --> 00:02:31,900
The Access Fund -- protecting America’s climbing.
44
00:02:32,980 --> 00:02:37,150
And the American Alpine Club -- together we’re stronger.
45
00:02:38,650 --> 00:02:39,990
Now that we’re warmed up,
46
00:02:41,020 --> 00:02:41,720
tie in
47
00:02:42,570 --> 00:02:44,030
for Reel Rock 13.
48
00:03:43,356 --> 00:03:47,390
Adam Ondra is the best climber in the world, by far.
49
00:03:47,390 --> 00:03:49,560
He's a lot better than everybody else.
50
00:03:50,810 --> 00:03:53,270
In pretty much all realms of climbing.
51
00:04:04,030 --> 00:04:04,990
Sport climbing,
52
00:04:06,280 --> 00:04:07,240
bouldering,
53
00:04:08,370 --> 00:04:09,700
big wall climbing,
54
00:04:10,790 --> 00:04:12,000
competition climbing.
55
00:04:12,000 --> 00:04:12,710
Adam Ondra,
56
00:04:12,710 --> 00:04:15,460
they're chanting his name.
57
00:04:15,460 --> 00:04:19,050
I mean, he set out to be the best climber in every aspect
58
00:04:19,050 --> 00:04:20,670
and he’s done it.
59
00:04:20,670 --> 00:04:23,050
He's the greatest climber of all time.
60
00:04:24,380 --> 00:04:26,390
There's a mystery around Adam.
61
00:04:26,390 --> 00:04:29,260
Who is this guy? What makes him tick?
62
00:04:29,260 --> 00:04:32,310
We're all kind of wondering why is Adam so good?
63
00:04:32,310 --> 00:04:34,560
We know very little about his process.
64
00:04:35,600 --> 00:04:36,810
Does he have a vision?
65
00:04:37,810 --> 00:04:40,070
How can he take the sport to the next level?
66
00:04:58,840 --> 00:05:02,340
I think I was born with this desire
67
00:05:02,340 --> 00:05:05,930
to set my own goals and going for them.
68
00:05:06,720 --> 00:05:10,430
Since the age of seven I became really obsessed with climbing
69
00:05:12,850 --> 00:05:14,480
and I was ambitious.
70
00:05:17,060 --> 00:05:20,940
Somehow I knew that in the end I would be a professional climber
71
00:05:20,940 --> 00:05:22,440
and just be good at it.
72
00:05:25,110 --> 00:05:28,200
When I went to the competitions as a small kid
73
00:05:28,200 --> 00:05:31,330
I just wanted to climb every single route there was.
74
00:05:39,250 --> 00:05:42,880
Even if I won, but didn’t climb to the top of the route,
75
00:05:42,880 --> 00:05:44,800
I would get really frustrated.
76
00:05:51,100 --> 00:05:54,140
Climbing to the top of the route was even more important
77
00:05:54,140 --> 00:05:55,560
than the victory itself.
78
00:06:00,940 --> 00:06:04,110
It is just so hard to control the emotion.
79
00:06:06,006 --> 00:06:08,158
When I got frustrated, I cried,
80
00:06:08,450 --> 00:06:15,830
and my parents told me "Well, it might not look that good if you're crying,
81
00:06:15,830 --> 00:06:18,170
might look a little better if you swear."
82
00:06:24,670 --> 00:06:26,220
I think it was good advice.
83
00:06:28,380 --> 00:06:31,510
But I must say that I might have been using
84
00:06:31,510 --> 00:06:33,600
even those really bad words.
85
00:06:35,220 --> 00:06:38,230
Adam definitely does seem like he could've been
86
00:06:38,230 --> 00:06:41,940
bred for this purpose in some kind of lab.
87
00:06:41,940 --> 00:06:45,860
He seems like a specimen who's been created to send.
88
00:06:48,400 --> 00:06:50,910
I wouldn't be shocked if he had come out of some kind of
89
00:06:50,910 --> 00:06:56,580
Eastern European, post-Soviet, apocalyptic, dungeon training cellar thing.
90
00:06:56,580 --> 00:06:59,370
Ready go! Up!
91
00:07:02,840 --> 00:07:05,960
He's been freaking climbing at an elite level since he was like six years old.
92
00:07:05,960 --> 00:07:09,220
I was interested in Adam Ondra since he was a kid.
93
00:07:09,930 --> 00:07:12,510
You'd always hear about this kid from the Czech Republic
94
00:07:12,510 --> 00:07:14,390
doing something that's really hard
95
00:07:14,390 --> 00:07:16,310
in places I've never heard of.
96
00:07:16,310 --> 00:07:19,350
There were articles coming out about this wonder-kid
97
00:07:19,520 --> 00:07:21,940
doing really hard routes first try.
98
00:07:22,230 --> 00:07:24,360
I was right around the same age as him
99
00:07:24,360 --> 00:07:27,570
and I was like "Wow, what, what's going on in Europe?"
100
00:07:29,490 --> 00:07:34,200
When I was a little kid I really got interested in the history of climbing.
101
00:07:34,200 --> 00:07:37,620
I would know all the famous climbers
102
00:07:37,620 --> 00:07:40,410
and hardest routes such as Action Directe,
103
00:07:40,410 --> 00:07:42,120
the first 9a in the world.
104
00:07:42,250 --> 00:07:46,880
I went to see Action Directe when I was seven years old
105
00:07:46,880 --> 00:07:49,720
and I thought like "Wow, I want to climb that one day."
106
00:07:54,930 --> 00:07:57,350
I actually ended up sending it seven years later.
107
00:08:01,350 --> 00:08:04,650
He really got a lot of attention on the global climbing scene
108
00:08:04,650 --> 00:08:07,570
when became the youngest person to climb a 5.14d.
109
00:08:07,570 --> 00:08:12,070
Thirteen years old, scrawny, scraggly kid with long hair.
110
00:08:12,070 --> 00:08:15,320
He had like a nerdy Harry Potter vibe going.
111
00:08:15,700 --> 00:08:19,330
Twiggy and gangly and all neck like a giraffe.
112
00:08:20,080 --> 00:08:22,160
I shouldn't make fun because every kid a little awkward
113
00:08:22,160 --> 00:08:24,210
but Adam Ondra was particularly awkward as a kid.
114
00:08:24,210 --> 00:08:27,540
I'm Adam Ondra and I am 15 years ago.
115
00:08:28,686 --> 00:08:30,960
He doesn't look like a professional athlete.
116
00:08:30,960 --> 00:08:33,470
But he just has such an intensity for climbing.
117
00:08:33,470 --> 00:08:37,090
The burning passion, and the drive, and the fire.
118
00:08:37,100 --> 00:08:39,010
Where you're just like, "Respect."
119
00:08:40,390 --> 00:08:42,850
He did La Rambla in like five tries.
120
00:08:42,850 --> 00:08:44,850
That was the hardest grade at the time.
121
00:08:45,986 --> 00:08:47,566
Do you want to be the best in the world?
122
00:08:55,570 --> 00:08:56,620
But after that?
123
00:09:04,670 --> 00:09:07,500
You see the headlines, Adam's breaking records,
124
00:09:07,500 --> 00:09:10,880
climbing harder and harder routes.
125
00:09:12,010 --> 00:09:15,300
He's done the most 5.14s, he's done the most 5.15s.
126
00:09:16,050 --> 00:09:18,890
He's climbed basically all the hardest boulder problems in the world.
127
00:09:19,560 --> 00:09:23,470
Including these horrendously disgusting looking traverses
128
00:09:23,480 --> 00:09:25,270
at his home crags in the Czech Republic.
129
00:09:26,060 --> 00:09:30,110
I can't believe he's climbing V16 in some rotten hole.
130
00:09:30,860 --> 00:09:33,320
He's doing it because he just needs a challenge.
131
00:09:33,320 --> 00:09:36,650
For sure it's not the sickest line you can find,
132
00:09:36,660 --> 00:09:40,450
but every single climb teaches you something.
133
00:09:41,660 --> 00:09:43,330
He's a student of movement.
134
00:09:44,040 --> 00:09:47,330
He's taking a very dedicated, methodical approach
135
00:09:47,330 --> 00:09:49,540
to learn from the best climbers in the world.
136
00:09:49,540 --> 00:09:53,630
Everything about how the human body works on rock.
137
00:09:54,800 --> 00:09:58,510
One of the major moments in Ondra's career was
138
00:09:58,510 --> 00:09:59,970
competing with Chris Sharma
139
00:10:00,350 --> 00:10:03,390
for the first ascent of La Dura Dura,
140
00:10:03,930 --> 00:10:06,060
which would be the hardest route in the world.
141
00:10:08,190 --> 00:10:10,860
They both put in a really good fight
142
00:10:12,440 --> 00:10:15,650
and ultimately Ondra, Ondra won.
143
00:10:17,150 --> 00:10:21,780
The torch really passed from Chris Sharma is the best climber in the world
144
00:10:21,780 --> 00:10:22,990
to now it's Adam Ondra.
145
00:10:24,950 --> 00:10:29,000
The next thing he did was spend an entire year training.
146
00:10:29,710 --> 00:10:31,710
He took a step back from real rock
147
00:10:31,710 --> 00:10:34,960
and just disappeared into this dingy little bouldering gym.
148
00:10:36,010 --> 00:10:38,010
I think a lot of people were disappointed that
149
00:10:38,010 --> 00:10:42,180
he didn't go find the next sick route to inspire all of us.
150
00:10:42,180 --> 00:10:46,100
But it was part of this premeditated plan that he has to
151
00:10:46,100 --> 00:10:50,560
improve himself and dominate all aspects of the sport.
152
00:10:51,310 --> 00:10:54,980
We started to see videos of how hard Adam was training
153
00:10:54,980 --> 00:10:58,530
and it seemed like he loved the training just as much as he did the climbing.
154
00:10:58,530 --> 00:11:01,110
And it paid off in the world championships.
155
00:11:01,110 --> 00:11:02,070
Ondra.
156
00:11:02,070 --> 00:11:04,450
No athlete in the history of climbing
157
00:11:04,450 --> 00:11:07,500
has won a bouldering and lead world championship
158
00:11:07,500 --> 00:11:08,750
in the same year.
159
00:11:08,750 --> 00:11:12,290
Go on Ondra, and what an awesome performance.
160
00:11:12,290 --> 00:11:14,170
Ondra, one more move away!
161
00:11:14,170 --> 00:11:16,380
One hand on it and he knows he's there!
162
00:11:18,090 --> 00:11:20,470
Ondra is the world lead champion
163
00:11:20,470 --> 00:11:21,930
and the world bouldering champion.
164
00:11:21,930 --> 00:11:24,220
Something I don't think will ever be done again.
165
00:11:25,173 --> 00:11:28,060
I mean, he just does everything at the highest level in the world.
166
00:11:28,416 --> 00:11:31,480
He doesn't compete very often, but when he does he basically wins.
167
00:11:31,480 --> 00:11:33,620
He doesn't big-wall very often, but when he does
168
00:11:34,150 --> 00:11:35,190
he does the Dawn Wall.
169
00:11:36,400 --> 00:11:38,318
A year after Tommy and Kevin climb the Dawn Wall,
170
00:11:38,327 --> 00:11:40,740
Adam showed up first time ever in Yosemite
171
00:11:40,739 --> 00:11:43,841
having never really jumared or even placed gear.
172
00:11:47,200 --> 00:11:49,410
Nobody knew how that was going to play out.
173
00:11:49,410 --> 00:11:51,290
People were like "Oh, I don't think he'll climb the Dawn Wall,"
174
00:11:51,290 --> 00:11:53,830
it's like, "Of course he's going to fucking climb the Dawn Wall, it's only 14d."
175
00:11:54,170 --> 00:11:55,460
It's not even that hard for him.
176
00:11:56,000 --> 00:11:58,880
A 14d sport climb is usually easy for me
177
00:11:58,880 --> 00:12:01,670
but up on the Dawn Wall I was humbled.
178
00:12:01,680 --> 00:12:03,010
Pretty tough day.
179
00:12:03,010 --> 00:12:05,680
It was more exciting than I expected.
180
00:12:05,680 --> 00:12:09,100
He managed to basically crush it.
181
00:12:09,730 --> 00:12:12,810
It's half past twelve and only four pitches left.
182
00:12:12,810 --> 00:12:15,400
The thing is it is really impressive that he came and climbed the Dawn Wall
183
00:12:15,400 --> 00:12:17,770
but I think he has set such a high bar for himself
184
00:12:18,650 --> 00:12:20,690
that it's really hard to impress people now.
185
00:12:20,690 --> 00:12:22,150
You know, I mean poor Adam.
186
00:12:24,280 --> 00:12:29,290
After the Dawn Wall I chose this project in Flatanger in Norway.
187
00:12:30,450 --> 00:12:32,960
It's a huge cave, perfect rock,
188
00:12:32,960 --> 00:12:35,630
with just enough features to make it climbable.
189
00:12:36,096 --> 00:12:40,760
It's 60 degrees overhanging and the route is maybe 45 meters long.
190
00:12:41,337 --> 00:12:45,300
I was sure that this could be the new level of difficulty.
191
00:12:48,890 --> 00:12:50,850
The climbing is very complex.
192
00:12:52,445 --> 00:12:56,690
It's like multiple boulder problems stacked on top of each other
193
00:12:56,690 --> 00:13:00,030
and you really have to be creative to find the easiest way.
194
00:13:00,860 --> 00:13:03,280
I'd been working on a story about Adam
195
00:13:03,280 --> 00:13:08,330
and he had this project in Norway that was going to be a 5.15d
196
00:13:09,310 --> 00:13:11,580
and I had to go see that.
197
00:13:12,290 --> 00:13:14,760
I walked up to the crag and was like "That's it?"
198
00:13:15,241 --> 00:13:16,290
It's not a king line.
199
00:13:16,290 --> 00:13:18,380
You can't even really tell where it goes.
200
00:13:18,380 --> 00:13:20,380
It just kind of ends in the middle of the wall.
201
00:13:20,380 --> 00:13:22,730
You're like "This is what's so inspiring to you?"
202
00:13:23,280 --> 00:13:25,760
But his answer to that question was so perfect.
203
00:13:26,470 --> 00:13:30,390
For Adam, it's not about the line it's about the beauty of the moves.
204
00:13:31,050 --> 00:13:33,270
It might not be that beautiful to look at
205
00:13:33,270 --> 00:13:36,850
but it is just really interesting
206
00:13:36,850 --> 00:13:41,650
because of how weird and severe the climbing is --
207
00:13:42,310 --> 00:13:43,690
especially the crux.
208
00:13:44,490 --> 00:13:47,070
You look at this crack and it's the shallowest,
209
00:13:47,070 --> 00:13:50,200
slipperiest, most awful thing you've ever seen.
210
00:13:50,200 --> 00:13:53,540
So horrible that his hands don't work on it.
211
00:13:53,540 --> 00:13:56,920
I was trying desperately to find the beta.
212
00:13:58,040 --> 00:14:03,260
After a few weeks I realized the easiest way is feet first.
213
00:14:13,220 --> 00:14:21,360
I found that I could turn around and thrust my foot and jam it inside a crack.
214
00:14:28,240 --> 00:14:30,160
It's bizarre climbing.
215
00:14:35,370 --> 00:14:37,620
Kicking his legs up above his head,
216
00:14:46,220 --> 00:14:49,050
doing these incredible ab sit-ups
217
00:14:54,400 --> 00:14:55,890
to contort his body
218
00:14:57,090 --> 00:14:59,090
and get his hands above his feet.
219
00:15:04,410 --> 00:15:06,820
When I was there Ondra got really sick.
220
00:15:07,390 --> 00:15:09,360
He didn't want to climb on the route
221
00:15:11,150 --> 00:15:15,910
but he was still approaching the mental preparation with the same level of
222
00:15:15,910 --> 00:15:18,790
intensity that you see when he's climbing.
223
00:15:20,040 --> 00:15:21,460
It was a very surreal scene.
224
00:15:22,170 --> 00:15:25,590
Very good, very good. Foot up, foot up. Come on.
225
00:15:25,600 --> 00:15:30,930
Watching the world's best climber lie on a shag carpet pantomiming beta
226
00:15:30,930 --> 00:15:36,890
with his physiotherapist mimicking the shape of holds with his hand.
227
00:15:37,410 --> 00:15:39,140
Come on, come in, come in.
228
00:15:42,060 --> 00:15:42,860
Drop-knee.
229
00:15:45,475 --> 00:15:46,940
I mean, it just looks nuts.
230
00:15:47,820 --> 00:15:50,082
Yes! Come on Adam, go, go!
231
00:15:50,621 --> 00:15:52,530
I had never seen anything like that.
232
00:15:53,660 --> 00:15:55,530
So I posted an Instagram story.
233
00:15:55,530 --> 00:15:57,870
Come on Adam, go, go!
234
00:16:00,070 --> 00:16:02,580
And professional climbers around the world were like
235
00:16:02,580 --> 00:16:05,040
"What is he doing? What is the secret to this?"
236
00:16:05,040 --> 00:16:08,380
I was like "What? This is not like any climbing I have ever done."
237
00:16:08,380 --> 00:16:09,090
What a weirdo.
238
00:16:11,730 --> 00:16:13,760
So I'm the right pocket. I'm a bit slopey.
239
00:16:15,260 --> 00:16:17,470
Turn around, turn around, turn around, turn around.
240
00:16:17,470 --> 00:16:19,310
Up, up, up, up, up.
241
00:16:20,270 --> 00:16:21,810
And then down.
242
00:16:23,480 --> 00:16:26,730
Adam takes this very cerebral approach
243
00:16:26,730 --> 00:16:29,280
to everything from the physical to the mental.
244
00:16:29,280 --> 00:16:31,150
In this position I have the toe-hook.
245
00:16:31,150 --> 00:16:35,990
He brought his physiotherapist, Klaus, to analyze his biomechanics
246
00:16:36,870 --> 00:16:38,410
and help with his training.
247
00:16:40,910 --> 00:16:43,210
There was an old barn there
248
00:16:43,210 --> 00:16:46,080
and if he wasn't on his project
249
00:16:46,080 --> 00:16:48,590
he was always, always training.
250
00:16:54,930 --> 00:16:57,890
His friend bought a bunch of wood in the Czech Republic,
251
00:16:57,890 --> 00:17:02,480
drove it up to Norway, and constructed this amazing wall.
252
00:17:02,480 --> 00:17:04,940
Now he has a place for his warm up.
253
00:17:09,230 --> 00:17:11,248
He was doing everything possible
254
00:17:12,323 --> 00:17:14,280
to take climbing to the next level.
255
00:17:37,548 --> 00:17:38,957
Climbing through the bottom,
256
00:17:40,967 --> 00:17:42,470
I don't really remember much.
257
00:17:44,395 --> 00:17:47,020
I was just in such a perfect flow.
258
00:19:21,880 --> 00:19:24,950
In the end of the route I was pretty nervous
259
00:19:24,950 --> 00:19:26,910
because I knew I could do it.
260
00:19:27,150 --> 00:19:30,500
There was so much pressure from deep in myself.
261
00:19:30,500 --> 00:19:33,750
I definitely didn't want to let it go.
262
00:20:02,030 --> 00:20:03,460
Adam did the route
263
00:20:04,210 --> 00:20:05,960
and he named it Silence
264
00:20:06,500 --> 00:20:08,700
Which is pretty freaking ironic.
265
00:20:34,150 --> 00:20:37,900
Reaching the anchor, it was just super intense.
266
00:20:44,870 --> 00:20:48,740
It was too intense to even scream out of joy.
267
00:20:52,330 --> 00:20:54,420
I just sat still
268
00:20:54,560 --> 00:20:56,690
and enjoyed the moment.
269
00:21:00,110 --> 00:21:01,130
It happened!
270
00:21:03,130 --> 00:21:04,680
I can't believe it.
271
00:21:04,680 --> 00:21:09,180
I've never had such a reaction after sending the route, I wanted to cry.
272
00:21:14,020 --> 00:21:15,560
Oh, man!
273
00:21:17,270 --> 00:21:20,070
He does Silence -- the world's first 15d.
274
00:21:20,980 --> 00:21:25,240
It's crazy just saying that, 15d.
275
00:21:28,230 --> 00:21:33,040
After climbing Silence, I went back home and took some time to train
276
00:21:33,040 --> 00:21:35,670
and figure out what my next goal would be.
277
00:21:38,460 --> 00:21:41,050
I think the challenge for Adam is that
278
00:21:41,213 --> 00:21:42,822
he's done everything.
279
00:21:43,294 --> 00:21:45,260
He's already established two new grades.
280
00:21:45,446 --> 00:21:48,930
He's won world championships, he's climbed the Dawn Wall,
281
00:21:49,976 --> 00:21:52,560
we all kind of wonder, "What do you do next?"
282
00:22:36,997 --> 00:22:39,472
People keep telling me that after Silence
283
00:22:39,506 --> 00:22:41,932
there will be nothing else for me to climb
284
00:22:42,670 --> 00:22:43,670
and that's bullshit.
285
00:22:45,365 --> 00:22:49,110
I can always be a little bit stronger, a little bit better climber.
286
00:23:00,130 --> 00:23:03,550
Over the last years I have been working on the raw power.
287
00:23:04,888 --> 00:23:06,720
I've definitely gotten much stronger
288
00:23:09,769 --> 00:23:12,720
but I think the stronger you are
289
00:23:12,870 --> 00:23:15,970
your technique can actually go down.
290
00:23:17,094 --> 00:23:19,640
Because then if you just feel the power you use it
291
00:23:19,935 --> 00:23:22,263
and you forget the perfect movement.
292
00:23:27,740 --> 00:23:32,030
That's why I've always focused on climbing better technically.
293
00:23:35,495 --> 00:23:38,999
I have to be aligned and then I can move the leg.
294
00:23:40,030 --> 00:23:43,040
If I'm like this then it will be different.
295
00:23:43,340 --> 00:23:45,880
I met Dr. Čumpelík last year.
296
00:23:46,880 --> 00:23:52,510
He made me realize that I can actually climb more efficiently.
297
00:23:54,100 --> 00:23:59,020
I just have to learn the perfect movement patterns.
298
00:23:59,020 --> 00:24:00,640
If the cat
299
00:24:01,785 --> 00:24:04,610
is going to catch some animal
300
00:24:05,215 --> 00:24:08,030
he has to go very slowly.
301
00:24:12,406 --> 00:24:14,588
Dr. Čumpelík came with this
302
00:24:14,618 --> 00:24:18,830
theory that human beings are still four legged
303
00:24:18,830 --> 00:24:22,210
even though at a certain point during the evolution
304
00:24:22,210 --> 00:24:24,170
we stood up on two legs.
305
00:24:24,980 --> 00:24:30,760
But if we really want that our movements are efficient
306
00:24:30,760 --> 00:24:36,010
we have to consider that the hands and legs are still connected.
307
00:24:36,300 --> 00:24:37,150
Perfect.
308
00:24:37,310 --> 00:24:39,890
Why should we focus more on the pinkies?
309
00:24:39,890 --> 00:24:43,390
If you press it here, where is this going?
310
00:24:44,200 --> 00:24:45,810
Shoulder is going frontwards,
311
00:24:45,810 --> 00:24:49,030
with the pinky it's in the perfect position
312
00:24:49,030 --> 00:24:50,650
and it's going upwards.
313
00:24:51,240 --> 00:24:54,860
Dr. Čumpelík showed me there's more things
314
00:24:54,870 --> 00:24:58,540
I can still learn and that's exciting.
315
00:25:01,870 --> 00:25:04,170
It gives me so much satisfaction
316
00:25:04,170 --> 00:25:08,130
to work on the perfection of my climbing.
317
00:25:09,250 --> 00:25:10,920
After you climbed Silence,
318
00:25:10,920 --> 00:25:14,220
did you set new goals right after that?
319
00:25:14,220 --> 00:25:17,890
Were you already thinking about 5.16,
320
00:25:17,890 --> 00:25:21,140
a 9c+? Is that even possible?
321
00:25:21,430 --> 00:25:22,590
I mean,
322
00:25:23,490 --> 00:25:29,400
I know that 9c+ might maybe be possible one day
323
00:25:29,400 --> 00:25:32,990
but right now for the moment it's too far.
324
00:25:34,700 --> 00:25:38,950
Pushing even one grade higher, this could take years.
325
00:25:39,710 --> 00:25:44,540
There's just so many different ways that I could still make progress.
326
00:25:45,290 --> 00:25:49,590
One discipline that I really enjoy is called flash.
327
00:25:50,550 --> 00:25:55,550
It means climbing a route first try or nothing, that's it.
328
00:25:56,180 --> 00:26:02,600
After Silence I set a goal of making the first 9a+ flash.
329
00:26:02,600 --> 00:26:04,390
That would be just perfect.
330
00:26:05,600 --> 00:26:09,060
The idea of climbing 5.15 first try is just crazy.
331
00:26:09,060 --> 00:26:11,940
I was like "No way you can flash 5.15," and then you're like,
332
00:26:11,940 --> 00:26:13,400
"Well, it is Adam Ondra."
333
00:26:14,030 --> 00:26:17,490
I was always obsessed by climbing a route first-go.
334
00:26:18,200 --> 00:26:22,370
As a small kid I just wanted to flash every single route.
335
00:26:22,532 --> 00:26:25,360
If I fell on my first try I just didn't bother
336
00:26:25,375 --> 00:26:26,830
even giving a second try.
337
00:26:26,830 --> 00:26:30,630
There's no one even close to Adam in terms of doing hard routes first go.
338
00:26:34,050 --> 00:26:35,510
Hardest flash in the world.
339
00:26:35,510 --> 00:26:39,140
I knew growing up that Adam was a master of this skill.
340
00:26:39,930 --> 00:26:43,430
He's pushed that realm more than anyone else, by far.
341
00:26:44,100 --> 00:26:49,600
I had a dream of flashing 9a+ since I was 18.
342
00:26:49,610 --> 00:26:52,650
I tried for the first time in 2012
343
00:26:52,650 --> 00:26:56,440
on this super famous route Biographie by Chris Sharma.
344
00:26:56,450 --> 00:26:58,110
When I climbed Biographie
345
00:26:58,110 --> 00:27:00,110
that was the hardest thing in the world and it
346
00:27:00,120 --> 00:27:01,660
took me, like, four years to do it.
347
00:27:01,660 --> 00:27:05,620
So it was amazing that someone could even consider flashing something like that.
348
00:27:05,620 --> 00:27:08,710
I watched the footage of Chris making the first ascent.
349
00:27:10,080 --> 00:27:13,550
Just trying to memorize the moves for a flash-go.
350
00:27:15,590 --> 00:27:19,720
Typically in sport climbing you spend days, months, even years
351
00:27:19,720 --> 00:27:22,260
practicing the moves over and over
352
00:27:22,260 --> 00:27:24,680
until it becomes this choreographed dance.
353
00:27:24,680 --> 00:27:27,730
But on a flash there's no rehearsal.
354
00:27:27,730 --> 00:27:30,770
You're just going up there trying to figure it out on the fly.
355
00:27:30,770 --> 00:27:34,400
It's a totally fresh experience, you have to trust your instincts.
356
00:27:34,400 --> 00:27:36,230
You have one chance to do it perfectly.
357
00:27:36,240 --> 00:27:39,910
It's the pinnacle of what it means to climb well.
358
00:27:40,490 --> 00:27:43,070
For me trying a route flash
359
00:27:43,080 --> 00:27:45,790
is probably the most intense,
360
00:27:45,790 --> 00:27:50,210
the most mentally demanding way of climbing.
361
00:27:50,210 --> 00:27:54,340
All the decisions are made by intuition.
362
00:27:55,750 --> 00:27:58,260
Every time you’re off a millimeter
363
00:27:58,260 --> 00:28:00,720
you’re losing a little bit of energy
364
00:28:00,720 --> 00:28:02,640
and all that adds up.
365
00:28:03,680 --> 00:28:08,020
Biographie has a very hard crux on the top.
366
00:28:08,020 --> 00:28:11,270
I just arrived there just being too pumped.
367
00:28:16,530 --> 00:28:19,860
At that moment, I was not ready yet.
368
00:28:19,860 --> 00:28:24,580
A few years later I tried to flash another 9a+
369
00:28:25,280 --> 00:28:27,950
and I got agonizingly close.
370
00:28:27,950 --> 00:28:30,200
There was a tiny mistake.
371
00:28:30,210 --> 00:28:33,710
I placed my foot a little bit lower than I should have.
372
00:28:34,710 --> 00:28:39,170
So I tried it twice and I failed both times.
373
00:28:41,510 --> 00:28:47,760
But I feel like now I'm finally ready for a 9a+ flash.
374
00:28:52,810 --> 00:28:56,150
Oliana is one of the hardest crags in the world.
375
00:28:56,150 --> 00:28:58,480
It's a massive, overhanging limestone wall.
376
00:28:58,480 --> 00:29:01,860
It's kind of the North Shore of hard sport climbing.
377
00:29:01,860 --> 00:29:06,990
You walk up to the cliff and there's at least five or six pro climbers trying 5.15.
378
00:29:08,080 --> 00:29:10,540
We're all there working our projects.
379
00:29:10,910 --> 00:29:11,540
Come on, Matty.
380
00:29:13,080 --> 00:29:15,750
And word got out that Adam was going to show up.
381
00:29:15,750 --> 00:29:18,960
He was preparing to flash this route called Joe Mama.
382
00:29:19,960 --> 00:29:22,090
There was definitely kind of a buzz going around and
383
00:29:22,090 --> 00:29:24,550
people were totally excited to watch the show.
384
00:29:34,980 --> 00:29:37,730
And this flag you're doing as well?
385
00:29:37,730 --> 00:29:38,400
Yeah.
386
00:29:38,400 --> 00:29:41,070
Climbing a route first try,
387
00:29:41,070 --> 00:29:44,990
it’s a game with very obvious rules.
388
00:29:45,530 --> 00:29:49,660
You can get as much information as possible from videos,
389
00:29:50,700 --> 00:29:53,660
from people that know the route very well,
390
00:29:54,500 --> 00:29:56,490
but you can't touch the holds.
391
00:29:56,480 --> 00:29:58,000
And it's four fingers or three?
392
00:29:58,000 --> 00:29:59,960
And I'll be like "Okay, you’re going to get the undercling,"
393
00:29:59,960 --> 00:30:02,130
and he's like "Whoa, whoa, whoa, whoa,
394
00:30:02,130 --> 00:30:04,050
what do you mean get the undercling, is it like this?"
395
00:30:04,050 --> 00:30:06,130
"Where's my pinky? I love my pinky."
396
00:30:06,130 --> 00:30:08,340
The under cling is like pinky, or?
397
00:30:08,350 --> 00:30:09,680
It's like pinch, it's kind of like this.
398
00:30:09,680 --> 00:30:10,680
Yeah.
399
00:30:10,680 --> 00:30:13,930
"Can I get my pinky in there? Can I put it on top of my ring finger?"
400
00:30:13,930 --> 00:30:15,690
"I really like my pinky."
401
00:30:15,690 --> 00:30:17,190
That was better but as soon as I put my pinky in there
402
00:30:17,190 --> 00:30:17,980
I love pinkies.
403
00:30:17,980 --> 00:30:19,400
Yeah. Definitely put your pinky in there.
404
00:30:19,400 --> 00:30:22,690
You know he's building the perfect sequence in his head.
405
00:30:23,650 --> 00:30:24,240
Get it.
406
00:30:25,110 --> 00:30:25,740
Press it.
407
00:30:27,360 --> 00:30:28,950
Resistance, come on. Come on.
408
00:30:30,212 --> 00:30:33,740
He has Klaus, his trainer, to help him be prepared for everything.
409
00:30:33,750 --> 00:30:36,460
The closer you are here, the more you can rotate here,
410
00:30:36,460 --> 00:30:38,170
the less power you need.
411
00:30:38,480 --> 00:30:41,600
It's so much harder to do the route first try
412
00:30:43,270 --> 00:30:44,800
but the route is still the same,
413
00:30:45,880 --> 00:30:49,720
and the only difference is that you don't have the information.
414
00:30:49,720 --> 00:30:51,890
You don't have the muscle memory.
415
00:30:53,750 --> 00:30:55,600
But you can somehow, like, cheat it.
416
00:30:55,600 --> 00:30:58,350
You can visualize beforehand.
417
00:31:00,360 --> 00:31:00,810
Okay.
418
00:31:01,590 --> 00:31:02,940
Smaller. Smaller, smaller.
419
00:31:03,872 --> 00:31:07,280
The idea is that if you do a lot of visualization
420
00:31:07,280 --> 00:31:11,160
and you climb it in your mind many times,
421
00:31:12,100 --> 00:31:14,660
then, if you actually try it,
422
00:31:14,660 --> 00:31:18,790
it feels that you had already done it many times before.
423
00:31:20,080 --> 00:31:26,130
I even visualize the emotions that I'll be having while climbing the route.
424
00:31:27,090 --> 00:31:31,140
Because in order to try hard, there must be those emotions
425
00:31:33,510 --> 00:31:39,600
and you want to feel as similar to the real climbing as possible.
426
00:31:42,730 --> 00:31:46,940
You know, I had heard about this visualization that Adam was doing
427
00:31:46,940 --> 00:31:52,070
but when I saw it for the first time it's pretty intense.
428
00:31:54,700 --> 00:31:58,660
Come on. Yes. Come on, get it.
429
00:31:58,660 --> 00:32:00,160
Come on.
430
00:32:01,170 --> 00:32:04,420
Come on, Adam. Come on, get it, get it!
431
00:32:04,420 --> 00:32:06,130
Keep going, keep going, keep going.
432
00:32:06,130 --> 00:32:07,240
Go!
433
00:32:08,070 --> 00:32:08,640
Yes.
434
00:32:10,140 --> 00:32:13,020
Nice work, come on stay there. Stay there.
435
00:32:14,930 --> 00:32:15,560
Got you.
436
00:32:16,970 --> 00:32:20,270
Got you, got you. Come on, fight.
437
00:32:21,230 --> 00:32:22,310
Come on.
438
00:32:24,060 --> 00:32:25,360
Come.
439
00:32:26,280 --> 00:32:28,570
Stay up there. Come on.
440
00:32:30,200 --> 00:32:32,990
Keep going, keep going, keep going. Come on.
441
00:32:34,149 --> 00:32:35,425
Got you, got you, got you, got you.
442
00:32:35,486 --> 00:32:39,633
Watching him put so much passion into the visualization,
443
00:32:39,796 --> 00:32:41,265
it was kind of awkward.
444
00:32:42,937 --> 00:32:45,450
I felt like I should have stepped out of the room.
445
00:32:46,090 --> 00:32:46,960
Come on.
446
00:32:48,960 --> 00:32:50,090
Come on.
447
00:32:53,390 --> 00:32:56,140
But he doesn't care about how it looks.
448
00:32:56,140 --> 00:32:58,970
He doesn't care about what people might think.
449
00:32:59,860 --> 00:33:02,640
He's transported himself onto the route.
450
00:33:07,690 --> 00:33:09,360
But the top out is good?
451
00:33:09,360 --> 00:33:10,240
Yes.
452
00:33:20,160 --> 00:33:22,250
It's nice today.
453
00:33:22,250 --> 00:33:23,660
Think so.
454
00:33:23,670 --> 00:33:24,120
Yeah.
455
00:33:27,630 --> 00:33:28,880
Yeah, hello.
456
00:33:29,710 --> 00:33:30,920
Hello.
457
00:33:33,340 --> 00:33:34,430
Do you know what he's trying?
458
00:33:34,430 --> 00:33:37,970
He's going to try to flash the 9a+ Joe Mama.
459
00:33:37,970 --> 00:33:39,010
It's going to be pretty sweet.
460
00:33:39,010 --> 00:33:41,930
This is like watching the superbowl or something.
461
00:33:41,930 --> 00:33:44,810
It's like if somebody was going to go up to a golf course they've never been at
462
00:33:44,810 --> 00:33:45,900
and try to shoot a hole in one.
463
00:33:46,150 --> 00:33:47,270
On every hole.
464
00:33:47,270 --> 00:33:48,690
And everybody was watching.
465
00:33:48,690 --> 00:33:49,570
Yeah.
466
00:33:51,570 --> 00:33:55,700
In Oliana, once the sun goes behind the cliff and it gets shaded,
467
00:33:55,700 --> 00:33:57,620
most days a breeze comes up.
468
00:33:57,620 --> 00:34:00,830
It keeps your skin dry and allows you to grip the rock.
469
00:34:00,830 --> 00:34:05,250
At that level, 5.15, that could make or break the send.
470
00:34:05,250 --> 00:34:07,130
Adam was waiting for that breeze.
471
00:34:18,010 --> 00:34:22,020
At a certain point, I could see that he was hesitating.
472
00:34:25,480 --> 00:34:27,150
He started doubting the conditions.
473
00:34:45,140 --> 00:34:47,178
It looks like your chance right now.
474
00:34:47,339 --> 00:34:47,942
Yeah?
475
00:35:10,327 --> 00:35:12,005
It's a hard decision.
476
00:35:12,574 --> 00:35:16,900
I'm kind of really excited to try but it's probably not worth it.
477
00:35:17,910 --> 00:35:23,830
I mean, flash is just one try a life and I don't think this is the day.
478
00:35:26,540 --> 00:35:28,870
The wind didn't come, it was a little too humid,
479
00:35:28,870 --> 00:35:31,040
and he just decided not to try it.
480
00:35:33,619 --> 00:35:35,460
We had been struggling with bad weather.
481
00:35:35,460 --> 00:35:38,050
And it was clear that this season's over.
482
00:35:38,050 --> 00:35:40,180
He just said "It's not going to happen,"
483
00:35:40,180 --> 00:35:41,430
and goes home.
484
00:35:42,140 --> 00:35:45,850
I went all the way to Spain to flash Joe Mama.
485
00:35:45,850 --> 00:35:47,770
In the end I didn't even try.
486
00:35:48,270 --> 00:35:50,060
Of course I was frustrated.
487
00:35:50,980 --> 00:35:55,280
But it is better to stay patient and wait for another time.
488
00:35:56,280 --> 00:36:00,570
At the moment, there's maybe only two or three 9a+'s
489
00:36:00,570 --> 00:36:04,990
in the world which are good candidates to be flashed,
490
00:36:04,990 --> 00:36:09,750
and that increases the pressure tremendously.
491
00:36:12,350 --> 00:36:13,650
If I fail on one,
492
00:36:14,670 --> 00:36:16,200
the chances are even lower.
493
00:36:22,800 --> 00:36:23,680
Morning.
494
00:36:24,810 --> 00:36:26,760
Think it's dry today?
495
00:36:26,770 --> 00:36:28,430
I bet only the jug pocket is wet.
496
00:36:28,430 --> 00:36:29,730
I think it will be okay.
497
00:36:30,430 --> 00:36:31,270
How are you today?
498
00:36:31,900 --> 00:36:32,400
Okay, good.
499
00:36:40,740 --> 00:36:43,530
The Colosseum is a new crag in Canmore.
500
00:36:44,320 --> 00:36:49,250
Just last year, actually, a local climber established the hardest line up there
501
00:36:50,160 --> 00:36:52,370
and proposed a grade of 5.15.
502
00:36:53,410 --> 00:36:55,130
Adam's travelled all this way
503
00:36:55,750 --> 00:36:57,920
for the big flash attempt.
504
00:37:01,510 --> 00:37:03,760
He was just watching me and filming me on his phone
505
00:37:03,760 --> 00:37:05,430
trying to get all the beta down.
506
00:37:08,770 --> 00:37:10,980
Adam, he studies it.
507
00:37:12,310 --> 00:37:15,940
You see the gears turning. The way he watches.
508
00:37:15,940 --> 00:37:17,230
The way he absorbs it.
509
00:37:17,230 --> 00:37:21,280
Just try to memorize every single handhold and foothold.
510
00:37:21,280 --> 00:37:22,200
You do this.
511
00:37:22,200 --> 00:37:22,450
Yeah.
512
00:37:22,450 --> 00:37:23,070
You do this.
513
00:37:23,070 --> 00:37:23,360
Yeah.
514
00:37:23,360 --> 00:37:24,160
And then you?
515
00:37:24,160 --> 00:37:24,910
Then I put it up, yeah.
516
00:37:24,910 --> 00:37:26,620
There's a lot going on inside his brain.
517
00:37:27,660 --> 00:37:28,200
Come on.
518
00:37:28,200 --> 00:37:29,580
Come on, Miles.
519
00:37:30,750 --> 00:37:32,500
Nice, come on.
520
00:37:35,000 --> 00:37:37,250
I think I've already memorized it,
521
00:37:37,600 --> 00:37:41,300
I've got two days to let it kind of
522
00:37:42,190 --> 00:37:43,720
sink in my head
523
00:37:43,720 --> 00:37:46,350
and I think I'll be all ready.
524
00:37:48,430 --> 00:37:52,270
It's a unique art, I think, to climb a route first try.
525
00:37:52,270 --> 00:37:54,810
It takes a phenomenal amount of guts.
526
00:37:54,810 --> 00:37:59,230
There's very few people in the world who have that mentality.
527
00:38:00,400 --> 00:38:03,860
I've never met such a person before, like Adam.
528
00:38:04,630 --> 00:38:09,740
It's somewhere in his mind that whatever he does
529
00:38:09,740 --> 00:38:13,830
he wants to do it one hundred percent.
530
00:38:14,750 --> 00:38:20,250
I always wish him to succeed because I know how it's important for him
531
00:38:20,250 --> 00:38:25,050
and I know that he's prepared for everything.
532
00:38:28,050 --> 00:38:30,010
A couple days later it was go-time.
533
00:38:30,720 --> 00:38:33,140
Yeah, I'm not going to lie, there was a bit of like,
534
00:38:33,140 --> 00:38:34,770
anxiety around it, you know?
535
00:38:36,060 --> 00:38:37,270
It's a stressful game.
536
00:38:38,860 --> 00:38:41,150
Watching Adam go through those motions,
537
00:38:41,150 --> 00:38:43,780
I mean, you can tell he wants it bad.
538
00:39:04,230 --> 00:39:06,510
Adam gets his shoes on and everyone just like,
539
00:39:07,864 --> 00:39:09,550
it's like "He's going!"
540
00:39:09,550 --> 00:39:10,370
and everyone one is like "Shh."
541
00:40:23,500 --> 00:40:24,460
No!
542
00:40:49,610 --> 00:40:50,780
What happened, Adam?
543
00:40:51,310 --> 00:40:52,770
Just slipped.
544
00:40:54,370 --> 00:40:55,370
Didn't work out.
545
00:41:00,250 --> 00:41:05,000
Adam, he puts pressure on himself, a lot.
546
00:41:06,500 --> 00:41:08,800
Like with this flash,
547
00:41:09,880 --> 00:41:12,840
maybe it's even too much sometimes.
548
00:41:14,300 --> 00:41:15,260
So frustrating.
549
00:41:15,920 --> 00:41:18,270
My hands felt like glass.
550
00:41:19,850 --> 00:41:21,020
I didn't stick.
551
00:41:24,480 --> 00:41:29,400
He struggles and we have discussions if he
552
00:41:29,400 --> 00:41:31,820
should have done something differently.
553
00:41:31,820 --> 00:41:34,570
Just wondering if I even have more motivation
554
00:41:34,570 --> 00:41:36,160
to just keep trying.
555
00:41:37,020 --> 00:41:40,620
But he did everything what he could for that.
556
00:41:41,450 --> 00:41:45,330
And I know that he will try again in the future.
557
00:42:03,850 --> 00:42:06,777
Go, go, go, go!
558
00:43:37,070 --> 00:43:40,240
This hold is with the pinky and it locks?
559
00:43:40,240 --> 00:43:41,280
How was the pinky?
560
00:43:42,330 --> 00:43:44,120
Not pretty.
561
00:43:44,120 --> 00:43:45,370
Okay.
562
00:43:46,040 --> 00:43:51,210
One finger pocket like this, like this, and you put pinky finger like this.
563
00:43:51,210 --> 00:43:52,340
Okay, I like that.
564
00:43:53,050 --> 00:43:56,420
After experiencing the failures so many times.
565
00:43:56,420 --> 00:44:01,390
I kind of felt this time I had to do it.
566
00:44:01,550 --> 00:44:04,640
But do you think you can put the thumb, like from the side?
567
00:44:04,640 --> 00:44:11,190
I was quite nervous but I just tried to focus on my own process.
568
00:44:13,800 --> 00:44:15,920
I visualized it so many times.
569
00:44:17,680 --> 00:44:18,830
I was patient,
570
00:44:19,870 --> 00:44:24,620
waiting for the perfect moment when I turn all this fear
571
00:44:24,620 --> 00:44:30,330
and pressure into complete flow of my mind.
572
00:47:30,680 --> 00:47:36,680
It was like 95 percent just as I visualized it.
573
00:47:36,690 --> 00:47:38,730
The holds felt just the same.
574
00:47:40,060 --> 00:47:41,320
That's a great feeling.
575
00:47:42,270 --> 00:47:44,900
Being up there for the first time, ever,
576
00:47:46,700 --> 00:47:50,950
while having the feeling you have already climbed it many times before.
577
00:48:07,420 --> 00:48:10,090
It felt like nothing could really stop me.
578
00:48:10,930 --> 00:48:13,100
I just kept going.
579
00:48:14,390 --> 00:48:16,930
And the dream was done.
580
00:49:00,850 --> 00:49:03,770
When I started climbing, my mental mode was not so good.
581
00:49:04,374 --> 00:49:06,980
I thought it was all of a sudden so humid.
582
00:49:07,790 --> 00:49:09,610
But I don't know, I started climbing
583
00:49:09,610 --> 00:49:13,610
and I clipped the first bolt and then the hard
584
00:49:13,620 --> 00:49:15,280
the hard part should start
585
00:49:16,060 --> 00:49:17,830
but it still felt so easy.
586
00:49:18,580 --> 00:49:19,700
And I kept climbing and
587
00:49:19,710 --> 00:49:20,910
it still felt so easy.
588
00:49:21,620 --> 00:49:23,670
I was feeling like an alien power!
589
00:49:23,670 --> 00:49:25,130
It was so good.
590
00:49:25,130 --> 00:49:28,300
Everything was just as I visualized, it was perfect.
591
00:50:14,016 --> 00:50:17,147
When I left Israel, we didn’t even know it existed.
592
00:50:18,648 --> 00:50:22,277
We know Wadi Rum, as legends and myth.
593
00:50:28,533 --> 00:50:31,452
My name is Eliav Nissan. I grew up in Israel.
594
00:50:31,453 --> 00:50:33,245
I live in the United States.
595
00:50:33,309 --> 00:50:39,817
When I grew up, we heard stories about a vast desert with canyons
596
00:50:39,818 --> 00:50:42,804
that you could get lost in for days.
597
00:50:44,267 --> 00:50:46,872
But we understood that we could not cross the border
598
00:50:46,879 --> 00:50:49,804
because Israel and Jordan were in a state of war.
599
00:50:51,864 --> 00:50:54,560
I came to the United States in my early twenties
600
00:50:54,574 --> 00:50:58,874
to pursue rock climbing, mountain climbing.
601
00:50:59,061 --> 00:51:01,862
Later I reconnected with Israeli climbers.
602
00:51:02,275 --> 00:51:05,706
And they were saying, "Oh, you know we can go to Jordan now,
603
00:51:05,772 --> 00:51:08,823
there's a peace agreement, there's a great climbing area."
604
00:51:09,774 --> 00:51:13,327
My friend told me, "Go find Mohammad Hussein,
605
00:51:13,328 --> 00:51:16,915
he's the number one Bedouin guide in Wadi Rum."
606
00:51:17,298 --> 00:51:19,433
I came to the village and I asked
607
00:51:19,433 --> 00:51:22,345
and there's probably twenty Mohammad Husseins
608
00:51:22,345 --> 00:51:23,505
in the village.
609
00:51:24,297 --> 00:51:27,190
The first time I met The Mohammad Hussein,
610
00:51:27,206 --> 00:51:28,086
Woo!
611
00:51:28,172 --> 00:51:29,970
I was surprised how young he was,
612
00:51:33,184 --> 00:51:35,814
by how charismatic.
613
00:51:36,184 --> 00:51:38,562
I thought wow, here's James Dean of Wadi Rum.
614
00:51:38,890 --> 00:51:39,723
Hello.
615
00:51:39,788 --> 00:51:40,547
You hear me?
616
00:51:40,652 --> 00:51:42,237
Or you need me to shout?
617
00:52:02,364 --> 00:52:03,211
Hello.
618
00:52:20,312 --> 00:52:23,148
Mohammad Hussein knows every canyon,
619
00:52:23,150 --> 00:52:24,316
every curve.
620
00:52:25,859 --> 00:52:27,944
The first time I saw Wadi Rum,
621
00:52:28,575 --> 00:52:30,029
yeah I was stunned.
622
00:52:30,030 --> 00:52:32,823
I was like, “There is a lot of rock here.”
623
00:52:32,824 --> 00:52:34,492
Wow. This is big.
624
00:52:37,195 --> 00:52:39,038
I fell in love with Wadi Rum.
625
00:52:39,039 --> 00:52:41,833
Came back, year after year
626
00:52:42,334 --> 00:52:44,878
climbing the established routes,
627
00:52:45,420 --> 00:52:48,714
and my friendship with Mohammad has
628
00:52:48,715 --> 00:52:51,176
grown for many years now.
629
00:52:52,302 --> 00:52:53,886
I always wondered
630
00:52:53,887 --> 00:52:56,306
so much rock, so accessible,
631
00:52:56,890 --> 00:52:59,559
but, there's so few climbers.
632
00:52:59,812 --> 00:53:01,369
Why aren't they coming?
633
00:53:01,895 --> 00:53:03,360
I talked to a lot of people,
634
00:53:03,378 --> 00:53:07,149
I asked him, “How come you don't come to Jordan?”
635
00:53:07,150 --> 00:53:10,528
And they say, "Um, there's not enough modern routes,
636
00:53:10,529 --> 00:53:13,614
if the locals put routes, we will come.”
637
00:53:13,615 --> 00:53:14,908
And that kind of...
638
00:53:16,368 --> 00:53:17,953
started the dream.
639
00:53:18,227 --> 00:53:18,661
Okay.
640
00:53:18,662 --> 00:53:20,120
I talked to my friend Elad,
641
00:53:20,121 --> 00:53:21,998
he climbs there, guides there.
642
00:53:22,290 --> 00:53:23,916
We wanted a route,
643
00:53:23,917 --> 00:53:27,837
that will match the highest standards of climbing.
644
00:53:27,838 --> 00:53:31,382
So we looked at the east face of Jebel Rum,
645
00:53:31,383 --> 00:53:34,177
the biggest rock formation in Wadi Rum.
646
00:53:34,667 --> 00:53:37,054
It looks so proud, so obvious.
647
00:53:37,055 --> 00:53:39,431
When we talked to Mohammad about our plan,
648
00:53:39,432 --> 00:53:40,683
he was very excited.
649
00:53:43,781 --> 00:53:44,901
And we went to work.
650
00:54:01,078 --> 00:54:01,704
Yeah it takes a little more
651
00:54:01,705 --> 00:54:04,343
strategy because the rock is not perfect.
652
00:54:04,551 --> 00:54:05,041
To say the least.
653
00:54:07,169 --> 00:54:08,253
ROCK!
654
00:54:08,999 --> 00:54:09,917
Okay.
655
00:54:24,817 --> 00:54:25,519
Eliav is a machine.
656
00:54:25,520 --> 00:54:27,479
Eliav is a suffer machine.
657
00:54:27,486 --> 00:54:28,913
He would never be discouraged.
658
00:54:28,910 --> 00:54:31,734
One day on the headwall we ran out of bolts,
659
00:54:31,735 --> 00:54:35,237
and I thought “That's fine we'll just leave it for maybe
660
00:54:35,238 --> 00:54:36,405
next season.”
661
00:54:36,406 --> 00:54:37,364
Then all of a sudden,
662
00:54:37,365 --> 00:54:39,825
Eli just rappelled down, didn't say anything,
663
00:54:39,826 --> 00:54:42,703
took a taxi, crossed the border back to Israel,
664
00:54:42,704 --> 00:54:44,538
drove all the way to Jerusalem,
665
00:54:44,539 --> 00:54:46,540
went to this hardware store.
666
00:54:46,541 --> 00:54:49,376
Same night, he took a bus back to the border,
667
00:54:49,377 --> 00:54:51,837
took a taxi back to Wadi Rum,
668
00:54:51,838 --> 00:54:53,088
walked back to the wall,
669
00:54:53,089 --> 00:54:55,549
jumared up and put these bolts.
670
00:54:55,550 --> 00:54:57,218
I was like, “Eli, what happened?”
671
00:54:57,219 --> 00:55:00,888
And he said, "We needed bolts, so I went back to Israel to get bolts,
672
00:55:00,889 --> 00:55:03,184
it's all good now, we can go and climb.”
673
00:55:03,185 --> 00:55:04,351
“Let's go and climb.”
674
00:55:04,684 --> 00:55:05,435
So we did.
675
00:55:05,939 --> 00:55:09,230
Putting up this line in a remote desert,
676
00:55:09,231 --> 00:55:13,485
yeah, that was to say the least, it was a learning experience.
677
00:55:14,736 --> 00:55:17,488
The new route is 1,800 feet,
678
00:55:17,489 --> 00:55:18,990
15 pitches.
679
00:55:19,741 --> 00:55:23,035
It turned out the third and fourth pitches down below,
680
00:55:23,036 --> 00:55:24,538
are going to be the hardest.
681
00:55:30,168 --> 00:55:33,587
The route name, it's called Sultan Ul Mujahidin
682
00:55:33,588 --> 00:55:35,715
Try to say, Sulatan Ul Mujahidin.
683
00:55:35,841 --> 00:55:37,007
Sultan Ul Mujahidin.
684
00:55:37,008 --> 00:55:40,762
Which means "The Sultan of all freedom warriors".
685
00:55:41,096 --> 00:55:45,683
To me, it means trying to free this line and if we could do it
686
00:55:45,684 --> 00:55:49,688
it would be The Sultan of all the free routes in Wadi Rum.
687
00:56:07,956 --> 00:56:08,874
Thanks.
688
00:56:09,374 --> 00:56:10,500
Bedouin tea:
689
00:56:11,126 --> 00:56:14,129
the sweetest tea in the world.
690
00:56:19,776 --> 00:56:20,730
Right. Yeah.
691
00:56:22,888 --> 00:56:25,222
So by the end of the first season,
692
00:56:25,223 --> 00:56:27,392
we didn't even make the headwall.
693
00:56:27,934 --> 00:56:33,148
And we came back year after year, making slow progress.
694
00:56:33,940 --> 00:56:35,984
I don't know if we were getting tired,
695
00:56:36,610 --> 00:56:38,694
but we fell into this pattern,
696
00:56:38,695 --> 00:56:41,780
self doubt, is it really that good,
697
00:56:41,781 --> 00:56:44,659
and we needed something to happen
698
00:56:45,243 --> 00:56:50,165
to reignite, to reinvent The Sultan.
699
00:56:59,841 --> 00:57:02,260
Just waking up here in Wadi Rum,
700
00:57:03,470 --> 00:57:05,096
Slept like the dead.
701
00:57:06,723 --> 00:57:07,766
Holy shit.
702
00:57:11,228 --> 00:57:14,605
Why can't we start our day like that everyday?
703
00:57:14,606 --> 00:57:15,773
Oh, we can!
704
00:57:15,774 --> 00:57:19,402
Madaleine is a very accomplished, very experienced climber.
705
00:57:20,028 --> 00:57:24,657
Her technique, her ability to climb hard pitch after hard pitch,
706
00:57:24,658 --> 00:57:27,494
far, far off the ground is amazing.
707
00:57:27,691 --> 00:57:30,788
Eli kept talking about this place called Wadi Rum
708
00:57:30,789 --> 00:57:34,668
and the rock climb that he'd been working on already for two years.
709
00:57:36,260 --> 00:57:38,420
So Madaleine came to Wadi Rum.
710
00:57:38,421 --> 00:57:41,675
She did the first couple pitches with ease.
711
00:57:43,593 --> 00:57:47,430
We knew that the first major obstacle would be the third pitch.
712
00:57:49,558 --> 00:57:53,644
Elad and I, we've been trying that pitch for years.
713
00:57:53,645 --> 00:57:56,105
It really was in a sheer corner.
714
00:57:56,106 --> 00:57:58,983
I tried it several times, I tried to go right,
715
00:57:58,984 --> 00:58:00,985
we were trying laybacking,
716
00:58:00,986 --> 00:58:02,278
micro crimps,
717
00:58:02,279 --> 00:58:03,572
nothing worked.
718
00:58:04,114 --> 00:58:07,534
And Madaleine came up with the idea to stem the pitch.
719
00:58:40,150 --> 00:58:40,900
Sweet.
720
00:58:40,901 --> 00:58:42,318
Good job!
721
00:58:42,319 --> 00:58:43,444
Thanks.
722
00:58:43,445 --> 00:58:46,864
Pure, pure technique. Incredible flexibility.
723
00:58:46,865 --> 00:58:49,074
It's nothing to do with pulling hard on holds.
724
00:58:49,075 --> 00:58:50,452
Sweet.
725
00:58:50,846 --> 00:58:52,745
Madaleine sent it.
726
00:58:52,746 --> 00:58:56,917
Make me look like a beginner climber.
727
00:58:57,584 --> 00:58:59,210
Yeah, she's going to show us.
728
00:58:59,211 --> 00:59:01,962
Then we felt like, “Yeah, we got something,
729
00:59:01,963 --> 00:59:04,508
this is worth all the effort.”
730
00:59:04,674 --> 00:59:06,967
It was really just the fourth pitch left.
731
00:59:06,968 --> 00:59:09,012
It's clearly the hardest pitch.
732
00:59:25,278 --> 00:59:30,241
It was clear that pitch is not going to come so easily.
733
00:59:30,242 --> 00:59:31,700
It all looked really hard,
734
00:59:31,701 --> 00:59:33,285
one section in particular,
735
00:59:33,286 --> 00:59:37,749
but I am going to stay optimistic about it.
736
00:59:53,544 --> 00:59:55,224
Every person has a unique vision
737
00:59:55,225 --> 00:59:56,810
of the world surrounding them.
738
00:59:57,894 --> 00:59:59,770
As a kid, growing up in Israel,
739
00:59:59,771 --> 01:00:03,817
there was a vision of the people on the other side of the border,
740
01:00:05,277 --> 01:00:08,654
and I think climbing and adventure
741
01:00:08,655 --> 01:00:12,199
is a great way for people to meet
742
01:00:12,200 --> 01:00:15,452
and share something that is greater:
743
01:00:15,453 --> 01:00:20,584
nature, challenge, risk, unknown.
744
01:00:21,334 --> 01:00:26,673
You really have to connect in order to do what we were doing there.
745
01:01:44,084 --> 01:01:48,003
That hospitality, that goes way back to Bible story,
746
01:01:48,004 --> 01:01:49,798
Old Testament stories,
747
01:01:50,966 --> 01:01:54,385
of Sarah accepting the messengers to her tent,
748
01:01:54,386 --> 01:01:56,178
not knowing who they were,
749
01:01:56,179 --> 01:01:58,139
it's rooted in the culture.
750
01:02:03,812 --> 01:02:06,897
After a few weeks, we'd established the route in its entirety,
751
01:02:06,898 --> 01:02:10,484
and we became quite hyper focused on pitch four,
752
01:02:10,485 --> 01:02:13,113
because that was the obvious crux.
753
01:02:15,782 --> 01:02:19,034
I'm going to try to rest for a second, and try to do that sequence
754
01:02:19,035 --> 01:02:20,452
from the start of the crux.
755
01:02:20,453 --> 01:02:23,163
On that fourth pitch it's really going to be
756
01:02:23,164 --> 01:02:24,915
that one long pull move,
757
01:02:25,747 --> 01:02:30,088
and then two significant high steps with my right foot.
758
01:02:30,630 --> 01:02:31,755
You're on the arete,
759
01:02:31,756 --> 01:02:33,090
get my right foot up
760
01:02:33,091 --> 01:02:35,342
sort of smear thing.
761
01:02:35,343 --> 01:02:37,928
The crux is to that little ledge
762
01:02:37,929 --> 01:02:40,140
and take the traverse left again.
763
01:02:41,933 --> 01:02:42,684
Yeah!
764
01:02:43,476 --> 01:02:46,103
I stand up on a small right foot,
765
01:02:46,104 --> 01:02:50,608
reach up to pointer-finger kind of lock with my left hand
766
01:02:50,609 --> 01:02:56,071
to reach to this down pulling other right pointer-finger hole.
767
01:02:56,072 --> 01:02:59,992
I stand way up to a left-hand pin scar.
768
01:02:59,989 --> 01:03:02,828
My pointer fingers are so strong from this climb.
769
01:03:02,829 --> 01:03:06,582
And then smear, push that gets me left.
770
01:03:06,583 --> 01:03:08,388
And if I get to the hole, I'm
771
01:03:08,382 --> 01:03:10,337
freaking sending the pitch.
772
01:03:14,911 --> 01:03:18,302
The whole village, basically, they were so into it.
773
01:03:18,300 --> 01:03:22,417
I was at the grocery store, and he asked me, “Did she do it?”
774
01:03:29,231 --> 01:03:32,066
Our time was pretty much over.
775
01:03:32,067 --> 01:03:35,194
I had one more day to try to send this route.
776
01:03:35,195 --> 01:03:37,489
I really wanted to send that pitch.
777
01:03:57,257 --> 01:03:57,924
Okay, Eli.
778
01:03:58,161 --> 01:03:59,038
Alright.
779
01:04:10,710 --> 01:04:11,044
Yes.
780
01:04:17,153 --> 01:04:17,654
Yes!
781
01:04:30,292 --> 01:04:32,460
You got this. Nice.
782
01:04:40,364 --> 01:04:41,198
Oh nice.
783
01:04:42,815 --> 01:04:43,899
Everything!
784
01:04:45,182 --> 01:04:46,183
Strong!
785
01:04:47,893 --> 01:04:49,644
Come on! You got this!
786
01:04:49,895 --> 01:04:50,937
You got it.
787
01:04:53,857 --> 01:04:54,941
Fuck.
788
01:05:15,003 --> 01:05:16,630
Yes. Yes.
789
01:05:23,595 --> 01:05:24,638
No!
790
01:05:27,849 --> 01:05:28,600
What?
791
01:05:30,737 --> 01:05:32,979
A battle.
792
01:05:36,175 --> 01:05:38,442
Well, I'm going down.
793
01:05:38,443 --> 01:05:40,945
Couldn't send it today.
794
01:05:40,946 --> 01:05:43,822
So close, just couldn't make my right foot stick.
795
01:05:43,823 --> 01:05:47,451
Yeah, beautiful climbing, including this pitch,
796
01:05:47,452 --> 01:05:48,536
awaits you
797
01:05:48,537 --> 01:05:51,125
if you come to Wadi Rum.
798
01:05:51,953 --> 01:05:54,406
Yeah, someone better send it in the next year
799
01:05:54,404 --> 01:05:55,460
or I'm coming back.
800
01:06:02,410 --> 01:06:05,374
Although none of us got the first ascent,
801
01:06:05,367 --> 01:06:06,807
I could speak for myself
802
01:06:06,805 --> 01:06:09,224
I would do it all over again.
803
01:06:23,663 --> 01:06:25,446
The route is clean, bolted,
804
01:06:25,447 --> 01:06:27,317
the anchors are in place,
805
01:06:27,319 --> 01:06:31,377
and it's open and ready for whoever wants to take the challenge
806
01:06:31,377 --> 01:06:32,796
and climb The Sultan.
807
01:06:37,169 --> 01:06:39,572
Mohammad told me that when he was a kid
808
01:06:39,566 --> 01:06:41,297
His mom said “Mohammad,
809
01:06:41,298 --> 01:06:43,966
every country you have a true friend
810
01:06:43,967 --> 01:06:45,176
you have a home.”
811
01:06:45,177 --> 01:06:48,118
So now, I have feel I have a home in Jordan,
812
01:06:48,111 --> 01:06:49,025
in Wadi Rum.
813
01:06:49,014 --> 01:06:52,725
And Mohammad has a home in the United States.
814
01:06:52,726 --> 01:06:54,935
Oh it’s one of those wherever I’m going to move?
815
01:06:59,164 --> 01:07:01,943
Well I'll try to turn it your way, Mohammad.
816
01:08:02,475 --> 01:08:05,485
Who is in favor of this proposal?
817
01:08:06,086 --> 01:08:09,589
Congratulations Tokyo 2020.
818
01:08:10,212 --> 01:08:13,909
Holy shit! Climbing is in the Olympics.
819
01:08:13,910 --> 01:08:17,204
The fringey adventure sport we all obsess over
820
01:08:17,205 --> 01:08:20,332
is headed for the biggest athletic stage on Earth:
821
01:08:20,333 --> 01:08:22,334
Tokyo 2020.
822
01:08:22,450 --> 01:08:26,547
The world's best climbers will compete in a combined event:
823
01:08:27,715 --> 01:08:28,466
lead climbing,
824
01:08:29,175 --> 01:08:30,009
bouldering,
825
01:08:31,302 --> 01:08:32,595
and speed climbing.
826
01:08:33,513 --> 01:08:36,391
Wait, what in the hell is speed climbing?
827
01:08:36,717 --> 01:08:38,882
Speed climbing is a race.
828
01:08:38,880 --> 01:08:41,770
A fifteen meter dash, but this is vertical.
829
01:08:41,771 --> 01:08:43,522
To see who can get to the top the fastest.
830
01:08:43,523 --> 01:08:45,274
Among top competition climbers
831
01:08:45,275 --> 01:08:48,373
speed climbing tends to provoke strong reactions.
832
01:08:48,425 --> 01:08:49,592
People rag on it.
833
01:08:49,787 --> 01:08:51,582
A lot of people don't think it's real climbing.
834
01:08:51,601 --> 01:08:53,516
I'm not the biggest fan of speed climbing.
835
01:08:53,515 --> 01:08:54,410
I don't like it.
836
01:08:54,408 --> 01:08:57,021
You're doing the same climb, over and over again?
837
01:08:57,062 --> 01:09:00,083
I just don't really see it as the real climbing.
838
01:09:00,202 --> 01:09:01,955
Just climbing a route and it’s the same all day
839
01:09:01,957 --> 01:09:03,608
just sounds really fucking boring to me.
840
01:09:03,606 --> 01:09:04,633
But like it or not,
841
01:09:04,633 --> 01:09:06,593
for one combined Olympic event,
842
01:09:06,591 --> 01:09:10,600
the world's top climbers now have to learn how to speed climb.
843
01:09:10,598 --> 01:09:11,859
The best climbers out there,
844
01:09:11,860 --> 01:09:14,024
they really aren't the best speed climbers.
845
01:09:14,027 --> 01:09:17,276
I definitely could've gone most of my life without speed climbing.
846
01:09:18,515 --> 01:09:20,599
Ah, it's a nightmare for me.
847
01:09:21,293 --> 01:09:24,027
So what is this obscure sub-discipline?
848
01:09:24,526 --> 01:09:25,818
Where did it come from?
849
01:09:26,000 --> 01:09:27,387
How do you get good at it?
850
01:09:27,431 --> 01:09:31,184
And how's it going to look to a worldwide Olympic audience
851
01:09:31,312 --> 01:09:32,649
in 2020?
852
01:09:32,709 --> 01:09:33,606
Look at the time!
853
01:09:33,981 --> 01:09:34,651
It's time
854
01:09:34,653 --> 01:09:36,274
to get Up to Speed.
855
01:09:41,933 --> 01:09:42,868
Hi, I'm Zac.
856
01:09:43,338 --> 01:09:47,026
Reel Rock producer and inveterate trad dad.
857
01:09:47,151 --> 01:09:49,146
Over the hill and out of shape,
858
01:09:49,320 --> 01:09:51,933
my glory days decades in the rearview.
859
01:09:52,488 --> 01:09:54,494
I pine for how climbing used to be
860
01:09:54,799 --> 01:09:58,351
and confront all new developments in the sport with skepticism.
861
01:09:58,348 --> 01:09:59,943
Instagram is gross.
862
01:09:59,990 --> 01:10:02,121
So when Reel Rock sent me on assignment
863
01:10:02,121 --> 01:10:04,190
to find out what speed climbing is all about,
864
01:10:04,587 --> 01:10:07,096
I had to suppress my inner curmudgeon
865
01:10:07,125 --> 01:10:08,659
and keep and open mind.
866
01:10:09,854 --> 01:10:11,688
My first stop is Ascent Studio
867
01:10:11,855 --> 01:10:13,647
where I meet up with John Brosler,
868
01:10:13,834 --> 01:10:16,221
one of the best speed climbers in America.
869
01:10:16,220 --> 01:10:17,134
Let's take a step back and just kind of
870
01:10:17,134 --> 01:10:18,490
give me an overview.
871
01:10:18,488 --> 01:10:19,875
So this is the speed route.
872
01:10:19,876 --> 01:10:21,293
This wall is ten meters
873
01:10:21,294 --> 01:10:23,128
and there's a fifteen meter version, too.
874
01:10:23,129 --> 01:10:25,297
It's standardized all around the world.
875
01:10:25,298 --> 01:10:28,175
You compete, train, all on the same set of holds.
876
01:10:28,176 --> 01:10:29,623
Been doing it for a long time.
877
01:10:29,622 --> 01:10:30,767
Yeah, how long?
878
01:10:30,769 --> 01:10:33,184
Like six years I've been competing on this route.
879
01:10:33,185 --> 01:10:35,015
For six years you've been climbing
880
01:10:35,585 --> 01:10:36,080
the same route?
881
01:10:36,074 --> 01:10:36,996
Yeah, yeah.
882
01:10:36,997 --> 01:10:38,013
Yeah, I have.
883
01:10:38,415 --> 01:10:41,359
John tells me that the best way to learn about speed climbing
884
01:10:41,448 --> 01:10:42,871
is just to try it for yourself.
885
01:10:43,206 --> 01:10:45,795
On the third beep, that's when you go.
886
01:10:45,944 --> 01:10:47,413
And, I'm off!
887
01:10:48,154 --> 01:10:51,574
Like a forty-four year old getting out of bed to change a diaper.
888
01:10:51,974 --> 01:10:52,642
Nice.
889
01:10:53,398 --> 01:10:55,243
The grade, it's no gimme,
890
01:10:55,244 --> 01:10:56,435
around 5.10 plus.
891
01:10:56,441 --> 01:10:57,192
There you go.
892
01:10:58,297 --> 01:10:59,594
But a few holds up
893
01:10:59,647 --> 01:11:01,105
something starts to happen.
894
01:11:01,250 --> 01:11:02,959
I find a groove.
895
01:11:02,960 --> 01:11:04,503
I've got some flow.
896
01:11:04,504 --> 01:11:08,006
In my head, I am flying up this thing!
897
01:11:08,007 --> 01:11:10,592
This is, without a doubt,
898
01:11:10,590 --> 01:11:12,392
the fastest I have climbed anything
899
01:11:12,393 --> 01:11:13,947
ever.
900
01:11:15,095 --> 01:11:15,900
Nice.
901
01:11:24,424 --> 01:11:25,132
Nice work.
902
01:11:25,132 --> 01:11:27,103
I was looking at my time:
903
01:11:27,179 --> 01:11:28,276
33.93.
904
01:11:28,277 --> 01:11:29,695
Not bad, first try.
905
01:11:29,755 --> 01:11:32,048
Climbing ten meters in under thirty four seconds
906
01:11:32,142 --> 01:11:33,600
seems pretty fast to me.
907
01:11:33,699 --> 01:11:35,200
I'd love to see you try it.
908
01:11:35,201 --> 01:11:35,952
Okay.
909
01:11:55,490 --> 01:11:57,184
We look like different species.
910
01:12:00,437 --> 01:12:01,924
As the session wears on
911
01:12:01,936 --> 01:12:04,063
and John delights in lapping me
912
01:12:04,085 --> 01:12:07,208
I realize just how difficult speed climbing is.
913
01:12:07,814 --> 01:12:10,734
Clearly not something you can hope to master overnight.
914
01:12:11,890 --> 01:12:14,823
Next, I'm off to the U.S. Nationals Competition
915
01:12:14,961 --> 01:12:18,184
to watch America's speed climbers go head to head.
916
01:12:18,748 --> 01:12:20,975
The comp’s main event is lead climbing
917
01:12:21,191 --> 01:12:23,738
where the stars of our sport dominate.
918
01:12:23,999 --> 01:12:27,836
Even as an old tradster, I can appreciate competition lead climbing.
919
01:12:28,462 --> 01:12:29,879
It demands route finding,
920
01:12:29,880 --> 01:12:32,967
endurance, and a wide range of techniques.
921
01:12:33,509 --> 01:12:35,469
Basically, climbing as we know it.
922
01:12:37,624 --> 01:12:39,205
Alright we are just getting this
923
01:12:39,202 --> 01:12:41,336
fifteen meter speed wall up and running here.
924
01:12:41,328 --> 01:12:43,710
That's right Brian, this wall that you're seeing right now
925
01:12:43,705 --> 01:12:47,648
is exactly the wall in the 2020 Olympic Games.
926
01:12:48,023 --> 01:12:49,274
The crowd is curious.
927
01:12:49,431 --> 01:12:51,109
It seems I'm not the only one
928
01:12:51,110 --> 01:12:52,737
who heard the Olympic announcement
929
01:12:52,729 --> 01:12:55,181
and is wondering what this sport is all about.
930
01:12:56,528 --> 01:12:58,992
The dedicated speed climbers enter the hall
931
01:12:58,993 --> 01:13:02,337
and embark on a warm-up routine that is, well,
932
01:13:02,330 --> 01:13:03,143
different.
933
01:13:24,602 --> 01:13:25,184
Here we go,
934
01:13:25,185 --> 01:13:26,186
silence!
935
01:13:26,353 --> 01:13:28,605
I do appreciate about the speed climbing, Brian
936
01:13:28,606 --> 01:13:30,440
that it is cut and dry.
937
01:13:30,441 --> 01:13:32,860
Clear as any running race.
938
01:13:34,612 --> 01:13:36,571
Wow. Blistering.
939
01:13:36,572 --> 01:13:38,532
They're just, flying up this wall.
940
01:13:38,908 --> 01:13:39,741
Very exciting!
941
01:13:39,742 --> 01:13:41,035
To say the least.
942
01:13:42,202 --> 01:13:46,873
In speed climbing, it's all about how fast you can do 17 moves.
943
01:13:46,874 --> 01:13:49,250
The climbing itself is very powerful.
944
01:13:49,251 --> 01:13:50,418
A lot of hand foot matches,
945
01:13:50,419 --> 01:13:51,628
not looking down at all.
946
01:13:51,629 --> 01:13:53,338
And if you really think too hard about the climb
947
01:13:53,339 --> 01:13:54,465
you're going to slip and fall.
948
01:13:55,549 --> 01:13:59,052
You've done the route so many times, you have to trust your muscle memory.
949
01:13:59,053 --> 01:14:01,055
I'm hitting my marks, I'm being accurate.
950
01:14:01,847 --> 01:14:04,724
The more their hips are in a perfectly straight line
951
01:14:04,725 --> 01:14:06,143
the faster you're going to go.
952
01:14:06,268 --> 01:14:08,811
There's something euphoric about running up a wall,
953
01:14:08,812 --> 01:14:10,064
you hit that buzzer,
954
01:14:10,859 --> 01:14:11,986
and the crowd goes wild.
955
01:14:12,178 --> 01:14:14,267
I’m like, “I just ran up that wall!”
956
01:14:14,318 --> 01:14:16,340
And it just feels good!
957
01:14:16,338 --> 01:14:17,445
This is Max Hammer.
958
01:14:18,361 --> 01:14:20,699
He's got the best speed climber name you can imagine,
959
01:14:20,988 --> 01:14:23,529
To the Max, Drop the Hammer.
960
01:14:23,658 --> 01:14:24,885
Hammer Time!
961
01:14:28,450 --> 01:14:29,513
I'll embrace it.
962
01:14:29,511 --> 01:14:30,508
Hammer Time's cool.
963
01:14:30,494 --> 01:14:35,363
It turns out, Max is only one of four speed climbers in the Hammer Clan.
964
01:14:35,621 --> 01:14:39,198
So my whole family is addicted to speed and I am so proud.
965
01:14:41,327 --> 01:14:43,738
The sport’s really growing and now that it's going to be in the Olympics
966
01:14:44,157 --> 01:14:45,852
I love that everyone's getting in on speed.
967
01:14:46,239 --> 01:14:50,050
Also competing here in Reno are some of America's top Olympic hopefuls
968
01:14:50,051 --> 01:14:53,095
who are looking to get some speed experience under their belts.
969
01:14:53,179 --> 01:14:57,168
The best climbers, they're realizing, yeah this is a difficult sport to get into.
970
01:14:59,672 --> 01:15:00,715
There's always false starts.
971
01:15:04,208 --> 01:15:05,614
Speed climbing’s pretty brutal.
972
01:15:05,612 --> 01:15:07,029
I'm like “Where are my feet?”
973
01:15:07,235 --> 01:15:09,028
I know that my beta’s wrong.
974
01:15:10,071 --> 01:15:11,864
I'm not very good at speed.
975
01:15:12,420 --> 01:15:13,755
You can't look down at your feet,
976
01:15:14,082 --> 01:15:15,292
but then you fall.
977
01:15:18,098 --> 01:15:21,642
In speed climbing, I'm not the pro.
978
01:15:22,401 --> 01:15:24,252
I'm just learning.
979
01:15:27,860 --> 01:15:31,175
I'm sure people are like, “Oh my gosh what's she doing?”
980
01:15:31,603 --> 01:15:35,523
At this competition, most of the big names finish at the bottom of the results
981
01:15:35,930 --> 01:15:38,140
with one notable exception.
982
01:15:38,141 --> 01:15:40,934
Claire Burhfeind, a young crusher from Texas,
983
01:15:40,935 --> 01:15:43,426
wins both the lead and speed comps.
984
01:15:43,431 --> 01:15:46,314
National Champion Claire Burhfeind!
985
01:15:46,315 --> 01:15:48,818
Take note, she’s one to watch.
986
01:15:49,093 --> 01:15:51,177
Meanwhile, my man, John Brosler,
987
01:15:51,315 --> 01:15:54,651
sets a new American speed record on the fifteen meter wall.
988
01:15:54,853 --> 01:15:58,857
He was going so fast his belayers fell over just trying to keep up!
989
01:15:59,495 --> 01:16:03,179
I'm psyched. And I'm looking forward to the world championships in Austria as well.
990
01:16:03,181 --> 01:16:07,130
And then Olympics, maybe? 2020? If I can get that far.
991
01:16:07,130 --> 01:16:08,555
So, so yeah.
992
01:16:09,863 --> 01:16:12,490
Now that I've had a look at the sub-culture of speed
993
01:16:12,512 --> 01:16:14,764
I want to explore deeper into its roots.
994
01:16:15,636 --> 01:16:19,599
Back in my day, speed climbing was synonymous with one guy,
995
01:16:19,720 --> 01:16:21,389
Hollywood Hans Florine.
996
01:16:22,898 --> 01:16:26,469
He's best known for breaking the speed record on The Nose of El Cap
997
01:16:26,466 --> 01:16:27,467
in Yosemite.
998
01:16:27,694 --> 01:16:31,621
But Hans has also long embraced indoor speed comps
999
01:16:31,619 --> 01:16:34,967
as an antidote to the drowsy pace of lead climbing.
1000
01:16:34,966 --> 01:16:37,342
You watch the quote "normal climbing".
1001
01:16:37,440 --> 01:16:40,526
Somebody like this up on the wall, not moving.
1002
01:16:40,786 --> 01:16:44,873
Went to the next hold. He's got to look solid, he could do it.
1003
01:16:44,874 --> 01:16:46,966
Oh, wow, he just reached up with his left hand.
1004
01:16:46,975 --> 01:16:47,805
Great.
1005
01:16:47,965 --> 01:16:49,197
It's pretty boring stuff!
1006
01:16:49,201 --> 01:16:50,647
Back in the 1990s,
1007
01:16:50,789 --> 01:16:54,784
the X Games experimented with a TV friendly speed format.
1008
01:16:54,790 --> 01:17:00,212
ESPN realized that they need amazingly fast dynamic movement that's wild.
1009
01:17:01,509 --> 01:17:02,301
This is huge!
1010
01:17:02,890 --> 01:17:05,309
We're actually going up there and taking ten meter whippers.
1011
01:17:05,761 --> 01:17:07,346
Boom! That’s entertainment.
1012
01:17:10,280 --> 01:17:13,616
At the heart of speed climbing is the route itself,
1013
01:17:13,960 --> 01:17:15,314
which was designed twenty years ago
1014
01:17:15,314 --> 01:17:18,369
by the famous French route setter Jacky Godoffe.
1015
01:17:19,307 --> 01:17:22,048
Jacky is a true artiste of the craft
1016
01:17:22,634 --> 01:17:26,654
whose meticulous process, strives to create poetry in motion.
1017
01:17:33,370 --> 01:17:35,360
But the speed climb Jacky created
1018
01:17:35,375 --> 01:17:37,696
was anything but a masterpiece.
1019
01:17:37,884 --> 01:17:39,317
In the early 2000's,
1020
01:17:39,434 --> 01:17:42,210
comp organizers were bugging Jacky to create
1021
01:17:42,209 --> 01:17:44,326
a faster route for their event.
1022
01:17:44,547 --> 01:17:47,951
So he slapped one together in a single afternoon.
1023
01:17:47,948 --> 01:17:50,846
And all these holds were in a box in Arco,
1024
01:17:50,843 --> 01:17:53,444
and then I opened the box and I started to play.
1025
01:17:58,276 --> 01:18:00,122
Jacky's route was used in one comp,
1026
01:18:00,259 --> 01:18:01,378
and then another,
1027
01:18:01,391 --> 01:18:02,808
and yet another.
1028
01:18:03,292 --> 01:18:05,143
And as it became the go to speed route
1029
01:18:05,953 --> 01:18:07,747
nobody bothered to update it.
1030
01:18:08,653 --> 01:18:10,870
To this day the route contains several enduring quirks
1031
01:18:11,371 --> 01:18:13,289
that climbers have just come to accept.
1032
01:18:13,308 --> 01:18:17,801
Near the top, there's a tiny foothold that everyone uses with their hand.
1033
01:18:18,923 --> 01:18:21,680
And there's this big hold out to the left that nobody uses
1034
01:18:22,257 --> 01:18:25,344
and yet it remains, lonely and unheld.
1035
01:18:34,770 --> 01:18:36,187
Despite its imperfections,
1036
01:18:36,188 --> 01:18:39,608
demand for Jacky's speed route has surged ahead of the Olympics.
1037
01:18:40,777 --> 01:18:43,237
In this one facility in Grenoble, France,
1038
01:18:43,373 --> 01:18:46,834
every single speed hold is fabricated and tested.
1039
01:18:47,241 --> 01:18:51,160
Technicians confirm the holds' consistency, tag it with a unique code,
1040
01:18:51,161 --> 01:18:53,330
and track its location for a lifetime.
1041
01:18:53,832 --> 01:18:56,500
At the Perfect Descent headquarters in Denver,
1042
01:18:57,289 --> 01:19:00,792
speed autobelays are specially manufactured
1043
01:19:01,163 --> 01:19:03,248
to hold ten thousand pounds,
1044
01:19:03,596 --> 01:19:05,681
recoil extra fast,
1045
01:19:05,673 --> 01:19:08,474
and shipped to comps and training centers around the world.
1046
01:19:10,091 --> 01:19:12,455
Every single feature of every speed wall,
1047
01:19:12,773 --> 01:19:15,108
down to the distance between t-nut holes,
1048
01:19:15,114 --> 01:19:16,406
is standardized
1049
01:19:16,399 --> 01:19:21,600
so that everyone competes on the same playing field, no matter where they are.
1050
01:19:25,653 --> 01:19:27,213
To check out the leading edge of this sport,
1051
01:19:27,211 --> 01:19:31,141
I head to its epicenter, the Russian Federation,
1052
01:19:31,324 --> 01:19:34,105
where the fastest climbers on the planet have come
1053
01:19:34,100 --> 01:19:37,066
to torch records at the World Cup of Speed.
1054
01:19:37,062 --> 01:19:39,998
I've come to Moscow to watch the best speed climbers in the world.
1055
01:19:39,992 --> 01:19:43,144
Just seeing what climbing in the Olympics is going to look like.
1056
01:19:43,963 --> 01:19:47,060
Russia is the birthplace of competition speed climbing.
1057
01:19:47,357 --> 01:19:49,219
It all began in the Soviet era
1058
01:19:49,541 --> 01:19:52,980
when the State built athletes into fine-tuned, winning machines
1059
01:19:53,026 --> 01:19:55,251
in a wide array of sports.
1060
01:20:06,427 --> 01:20:08,571
As early as 1947,
1061
01:20:08,737 --> 01:20:12,891
Russian climbers began holding outdoor speed climbing competitions.
1062
01:20:30,539 --> 01:20:33,974
And today, speed is an even bigger part of Russian climbing.
1063
01:20:47,149 --> 01:20:47,900
Our country
1064
01:20:49,718 --> 01:20:50,677
loves it.
1065
01:20:50,919 --> 01:20:54,881
In the Russian system, kids are recruited from an early age.
1066
01:20:54,883 --> 01:20:59,970
My parents, they just took my hand and said something like
1067
01:20:59,970 --> 01:21:03,023
"Okay, here you are, that's your sport."
1068
01:21:04,388 --> 01:21:08,063
In Russia, the child they start with speed.
1069
01:21:08,062 --> 01:21:12,721
And if you are good in speed, you climb only speed.
1070
01:21:12,973 --> 01:21:14,606
And training comes with a heavy dose
1071
01:21:14,601 --> 01:21:16,248
of Spartan dedication.
1072
01:21:17,457 --> 01:21:19,303
Yes, we do a lot of training, a lot of practice.
1073
01:21:19,300 --> 01:21:22,326
If you're a speed climber, all your life you have to be
1074
01:21:22,330 --> 01:21:23,888
dedicated to the sport.
1075
01:21:25,975 --> 01:21:27,767
We climb outside during the winter.
1076
01:21:27,762 --> 01:21:30,764
In Siberia, -30 or -40.
1077
01:21:30,890 --> 01:21:33,586
This is our atmosphere and our culture.
1078
01:21:33,592 --> 01:21:35,521
We don't climb speed for fun.
1079
01:21:37,622 --> 01:21:38,429
It's like "Okay, bro!"
1080
01:21:38,495 --> 01:21:40,831
"Okay, peace!" In speed, no.
1081
01:21:40,838 --> 01:21:43,890
There is no joke. This is a serious thing.
1082
01:21:45,875 --> 01:21:49,037
At the Moscow World Cup, I discover several other national teams
1083
01:21:49,041 --> 01:21:52,004
that occupy this upper echelon in speed climbing
1084
01:21:53,187 --> 01:21:55,838
and take this sport very seriously.
1085
01:21:56,221 --> 01:22:00,662
The French are here, of course, featuring top-ranked Anouck Jaubert.
1086
01:22:00,820 --> 01:22:02,271
We need strong legs
1087
01:22:03,090 --> 01:22:05,200
and also strong arms,
1088
01:22:05,439 --> 01:22:07,774
everything to lead you to the top.
1089
01:22:08,459 --> 01:22:11,235
There's a big team here from Indonesia.
1090
01:22:19,764 --> 01:22:23,142
Aries Susanti Rahayu is a famous athlete in her home country
1091
01:22:41,736 --> 01:22:45,555
And one team that will not go unnoticed is the Iranians.
1092
01:22:49,057 --> 01:22:50,808
Zac, are you going to flex, too?
1093
01:22:50,809 --> 01:22:52,018
I don't think so.
1094
01:22:53,129 --> 01:22:55,949
Team Iran is led by the five foot five,
1095
01:22:55,950 --> 01:22:59,380
one hundred sixty eight pound, Reza Alipour.
1096
01:22:59,459 --> 01:23:01,334
Aka: the Persian Cheetah.
1097
01:23:12,551 --> 01:23:14,625
Reza is renowned for a training regimen
1098
01:23:14,620 --> 01:23:17,641
that puts Rocky Balboa to shame.
1099
01:23:17,939 --> 01:23:20,842
Reza is amazing, he's a physical freak.
1100
01:23:21,318 --> 01:23:24,943
It's a level of explosive power beyond anything I've ever seen.
1101
01:23:24,939 --> 01:23:26,767
Absolutely incredible!
1102
01:23:26,857 --> 01:23:29,246
He is the Usain Bolt of speed climbing!
1103
01:23:29,371 --> 01:23:32,219
Nothing can make Reza stop.
1104
01:23:32,240 --> 01:23:33,827
Yes, nothing.
1105
01:23:34,014 --> 01:23:38,948
In 2017, Reza set out to break the sport's longstanding record time.
1106
01:23:44,117 --> 01:23:47,277
Reza switched up his beta skipping the fourth hand hold
1107
01:23:47,280 --> 01:23:50,104
that up until then had always been used.
1108
01:23:51,185 --> 01:23:53,024
The innovation was widely adopted,
1109
01:23:53,016 --> 01:23:56,133
and now has a name: The Reza.
1110
01:23:56,457 --> 01:23:58,549
He's going with him, he's got half a lead, lightning fast!
1111
01:23:58,552 --> 01:24:01,144
He's going to come out champion, he's going to come out champion!
1112
01:24:01,138 --> 01:24:04,322
Look at the time! Look at the time! The world record!
1113
01:24:06,994 --> 01:24:11,984
Good afternoon, welcome to Moscow at speed world cup number one of 2018.
1114
01:24:12,660 --> 01:24:16,486
This world cup boasts the fastest field of climbers ever assembled.
1115
01:24:19,741 --> 01:24:22,970
The pure athleticism is amazing to watch,
1116
01:24:22,970 --> 01:24:24,854
and the excitement is contagious.
1117
01:24:29,434 --> 01:24:32,658
In the men's division, Reza consistently clocks times
1118
01:24:32,659 --> 01:24:33,723
under six seconds.
1119
01:24:33,879 --> 01:24:35,716
Reza absolutely flying through the middle
1120
01:24:35,714 --> 01:24:37,174
to take it in 5.7.
1121
01:24:38,050 --> 01:24:39,800
And he cruises to victory
1122
01:24:39,801 --> 01:24:42,613
much to the delight of his compatriots.
1123
01:24:53,908 --> 01:24:59,053
Meanwhile, Aries Susanti Rahayu posts one of the fastest times by a woman.
1124
01:25:06,110 --> 01:25:10,284
But Anouck Jaubert climbs even faster, matching the world record.
1125
01:25:10,303 --> 01:25:14,542
Jaubert, may crush the world record! Wow.
1126
01:25:15,220 --> 01:25:18,279
Watching these climbers from all corners of the globe
1127
01:25:18,277 --> 01:25:20,277
proudly represent their countries,
1128
01:25:21,220 --> 01:25:22,072
support each other,
1129
01:25:23,501 --> 01:25:26,600
and pursue their passion with an open throttle,
1130
01:25:26,838 --> 01:25:28,216
I can't believe it, amazing!
1131
01:25:28,580 --> 01:25:33,248
I'm really starting to get those warm and fuzzy Olympic feels.
1132
01:25:36,617 --> 01:25:38,974
And I'm not the only one.
1133
01:25:40,319 --> 01:25:44,393
As 2020 approaches, even the most skeptical pro climbers
1134
01:25:44,412 --> 01:25:46,041
have started warming to the speed event.
1135
01:25:48,239 --> 01:25:52,455
Adam Ondra, who described speed climbing as a nightmare,
1136
01:25:52,660 --> 01:25:55,294
is spending his days at this state of the art facility
1137
01:25:55,286 --> 01:25:57,203
trying to bring down his time.
1138
01:25:57,409 --> 01:26:00,867
This is the first time I'm going to train something
1139
01:26:00,860 --> 01:26:03,068
against my will.
1140
01:26:03,928 --> 01:26:06,890
But the attraction for the Olympics is there.
1141
01:26:08,325 --> 01:26:12,985
Getting good at speed is the biggest challenge of my climbing career so far.
1142
01:26:13,838 --> 01:26:17,133
So I might find a little bit of fun in that.
1143
01:26:18,055 --> 01:26:20,406
Also here is Claire Buhrfeind.
1144
01:26:20,401 --> 01:26:24,796
Remember? She won both the lead and speed comps in Reno.
1145
01:26:26,263 --> 01:26:29,871
Claire is a new breed of athlete who's competed in all three Olympic disciplines
1146
01:26:29,872 --> 01:26:31,483
since she was just a kid.
1147
01:26:32,038 --> 01:26:33,504
I've always loved competing
1148
01:26:33,502 --> 01:26:37,164
and speed climbing is like a very pure form of competition.
1149
01:26:38,583 --> 01:26:40,967
Climbing in the Olympics is an amazing opportunity,
1150
01:26:40,961 --> 01:26:43,282
and climbers from all over the world they're
1151
01:26:43,282 --> 01:26:46,523
trying to figure out what it means to train all three disciplines.
1152
01:26:49,589 --> 01:26:53,946
I think everybody should just embrace it and go for it.
1153
01:26:56,953 --> 01:27:01,542
As for me, I can see the inevitable direction this sport is going.
1154
01:27:01,761 --> 01:27:06,431
And while speed may be a far cry from the climbing I grew up with,
1155
01:27:06,542 --> 01:27:07,338
that's okay.
1156
01:27:08,922 --> 01:27:10,925
Instead of being a stick in the mud,
1157
01:27:11,406 --> 01:27:13,740
I'm determined to keep up with the times.
1158
01:28:15,911 --> 01:28:19,695
Admiral Byrd you've been to both the North Pole and the South Pole.
1159
01:28:19,952 --> 01:28:23,206
Is there any unexplored land left on this Earth?
1160
01:28:23,308 --> 01:28:24,558
Yes, there is.
1161
01:28:24,774 --> 01:28:27,026
Strangely enough there's left in the world, today,
1162
01:28:27,027 --> 01:28:32,531
an area as big as the United States, now by far the coldest spot in the world
1163
01:28:32,532 --> 01:28:34,451
that's never been seen by human beings.
1164
01:28:35,535 --> 01:28:40,040
It's quite astonishing that there should be an area as big as that unexplored.
1165
01:28:41,082 --> 01:28:44,127
So there's a lot of adventure left down at the bottom of the world.
1166
01:28:46,638 --> 01:28:49,140
Going to the ice! Yeah!
1167
01:28:54,096 --> 01:28:57,890
Why this interest in the bottom of the world?
1168
01:28:57,891 --> 01:29:00,476
I'll tell you one reason they're interested:
1169
01:29:00,477 --> 01:29:05,190
it's by far the most valuable place left in the world for expeditions.
1170
01:29:06,024 --> 01:29:10,152
I've been wondering how cold Antarctica's going to be for a long time.
1171
01:29:10,153 --> 01:29:11,862
It's properly cold.
1172
01:29:11,863 --> 01:29:14,199
But I don't think this is very cold for Antarctica.
1173
01:29:20,163 --> 01:29:23,707
Not just a little bit windy but, like, really, really, really windy.
1174
01:29:23,708 --> 01:29:28,337
My worst fear is that we spend two weeks here at the Russian base
1175
01:29:28,338 --> 01:29:32,341
and we aren't able to fly to our objective. That'd be really sad.
1176
01:29:32,342 --> 01:29:33,050
We'll see,
1177
01:29:33,051 --> 01:29:35,679
It's cold. My snot is freezing.
1178
01:29:35,960 --> 01:29:38,056
This is totally insane!
1179
01:29:40,684 --> 01:29:43,721
So we're here in Antarctica with Conrad Anker,
1180
01:29:43,712 --> 01:29:44,921
Jimmy Chin,
1181
01:29:44,922 --> 01:29:45,880
Cedar Wright,
1182
01:29:45,871 --> 01:29:46,663
Anna Pfaff,
1183
01:29:46,664 --> 01:29:47,664
Savannah Cummins,
1184
01:29:47,858 --> 01:29:49,025
and last and least Alex Honnold.
1185
01:29:49,901 --> 01:29:52,319
I mean, when I heard that this trip to Antarctica was happening
1186
01:29:52,320 --> 01:29:53,763
I was like "That sounds terrible."
1187
01:29:53,754 --> 01:29:55,698
I hate the cold and I hate the snow,
1188
01:29:55,699 --> 01:29:56,908
and Antarctica has a lot of both.
1189
01:29:58,110 --> 01:30:00,842
I don't know, I think pretty much right up until we landed on the glacier
1190
01:30:00,858 --> 01:30:03,832
I was still sort of 50/50 on whether or not I wanted to come to Antarctica.
1191
01:30:04,666 --> 01:30:07,042
Coming to the Novo Air Base felt a little bit like
1192
01:30:07,043 --> 01:30:08,295
an episode of Star Wars.
1193
01:30:11,965 --> 01:30:13,173
You have your base,
1194
01:30:13,174 --> 01:30:16,520
and you have your life pod, you go into your shipping container and you survive.
1195
01:30:16,970 --> 01:30:20,437
You have to have your space suit, you have to put on all this stuff just to survive.
1196
01:30:24,853 --> 01:30:26,730
Well, it's blowing pretty good.
1197
01:30:42,454 --> 01:30:46,874
It's like dead silent, there's no wind, it's actually kind of warm,
1198
01:30:46,875 --> 01:30:50,055
but there's the craziest ice crystals I have ever seen.
1199
01:30:50,128 --> 01:30:53,047
This place hasn't been photographed all that much
1200
01:30:53,048 --> 01:30:55,300
which is really cool for me to come here with open eyes.
1201
01:30:58,652 --> 01:31:03,739
Ice caving is fun, but we're going mountain climbing and we're not there.
1202
01:31:03,756 --> 01:31:09,221
The weather is still not flyable so here we are.
1203
01:31:09,254 --> 01:31:13,007
I really started to think that we were going to spend our entire trip in Novo
1204
01:31:13,071 --> 01:31:16,293
and I was going to fucking have you pull the snowmobile over my face or something.
1205
01:31:17,226 --> 01:31:18,725
Just back it over me repeatedly until I died.
1206
01:31:22,242 --> 01:31:24,871
Yeah, and then Conrad turned 55
1207
01:31:26,456 --> 01:31:26,997
in Antarctica
1208
01:31:26,998 --> 01:31:30,042
so we had a really nice surprise birthday party for him.
1209
01:31:30,603 --> 01:31:39,737
Happy birthday to you, happy birthday to you!
1210
01:31:43,039 --> 01:31:45,124
I feel old, I'm 55.
1211
01:31:48,186 --> 01:31:51,982
I mean I look at Sav, she's 25, she was 4 years old when we were here.
1212
01:31:52,816 --> 01:31:54,276
I don't think she knew what a carabiner was.
1213
01:31:56,111 --> 01:31:58,196
I think it's fair to say that Conrad is a legend.
1214
01:31:59,489 --> 01:32:00,948
I mean I've always thought Conrad is the man,
1215
01:32:00,949 --> 01:32:02,908
and the fact that he is so totally passionate about climbing
1216
01:32:02,909 --> 01:32:04,410
and excited to push himself.
1217
01:32:04,411 --> 01:32:07,664
I mean, he had a frickin heart attack on a 6,000 meter peak last year.
1218
01:32:08,665 --> 01:32:13,837
It was November, 16, 2016, and I suffered a heart attack in Nepal.
1219
01:32:14,463 --> 01:32:16,674
The Grim Reaper sat down next to me,
1220
01:32:16,671 --> 01:32:20,172
was like, "Hey, how's it going? Let's have a conversation today."
1221
01:32:20,195 --> 01:32:24,000
I'm like, "Well fuck you, get out of here, I'm not ready yet. I'm not giving up."
1222
01:32:25,894 --> 01:32:28,146
Not a lot of people would've survive that.
1223
01:32:28,567 --> 01:32:30,989
I mean the guy is a beast, he's a survivor.
1224
01:32:30,979 --> 01:32:33,898
And now here he is in Antarctica a year later and you're like
1225
01:32:34,078 --> 01:32:35,317
"That's pretty impressive."
1226
01:32:36,010 --> 01:32:38,485
I try not to see myself as a 55-year-old guy.
1227
01:32:38,486 --> 01:32:41,239
I'm just in there in the mix with the other 30-year-olds.
1228
01:32:50,916 --> 01:32:52,250
Okay, alright let's go!
1229
01:32:53,710 --> 01:32:57,422
Oh my God it's happening! I can't believe it!
1230
01:33:05,931 --> 01:33:09,266
I didn't realize how many mountains there are in Antarctica,
1231
01:33:09,267 --> 01:33:10,977
there's peaks poking up everywhere.
1232
01:33:14,314 --> 01:33:18,693
It's insane dude, I mean it's like the most ridiculous landscape ever.
1233
01:33:40,048 --> 01:33:40,465
Base camp!
1234
01:33:42,217 --> 01:33:42,968
Here we are.
1235
01:33:50,308 --> 01:33:54,103
It was just dead silent, looking around being like "Woah!"
1236
01:33:54,104 --> 01:33:56,231
"We're the only ones out here right now."
1237
01:33:57,816 --> 01:33:59,817
There's just infinite whiteness as far as you can see
1238
01:33:59,818 --> 01:34:02,487
and I guess that goes for over 1,000 miles to the South Pole.
1239
01:34:04,614 --> 01:34:06,074
Bye!
1240
01:34:07,492 --> 01:34:08,994
Wait, I forgot my iPhone!
1241
01:34:10,620 --> 01:34:14,748
Oddly enough, I really enjoy the simplicity of being dropped off in a remote place
1242
01:34:14,749 --> 01:34:16,710
and having to be self-sufficient for two weeks.
1243
01:34:21,199 --> 01:34:22,442
Hey Alex, can you dig it?
1244
01:34:22,537 --> 01:34:23,787
I dig it.
1245
01:34:23,941 --> 01:34:24,915
I'm digging the latrine.
1246
01:34:25,544 --> 01:34:26,428
That's pretty exciting.
1247
01:34:27,888 --> 01:34:31,573
Queen Maud Land is one of the most spectacular mountain ranges on Earth.
1248
01:34:32,100 --> 01:34:35,420
Outrageous granite spires leaping up out of the ice.
1249
01:34:36,104 --> 01:34:39,088
For the next three weeks we're going to attack this range.
1250
01:34:39,232 --> 01:34:40,192
Yeah!
1251
01:34:41,026 --> 01:34:42,860
Sav and Anna are the young guns on this trip.
1252
01:34:42,861 --> 01:34:46,906
They're basically starting their partnership doing first ascents in Antarctica,
1253
01:34:46,907 --> 01:34:48,115
which is kind of insane.
1254
01:34:48,116 --> 01:34:50,534
This is my first year ever going on an expedition.
1255
01:34:50,535 --> 01:34:52,328
I'm totally out of my element.
1256
01:34:52,329 --> 01:34:53,509
What crampons are you bringing?
1257
01:34:54,130 --> 01:34:55,513
It's cool being out of your element.
1258
01:34:55,916 --> 01:34:59,793
I've been expedition climbing for about ten years,
1259
01:34:59,794 --> 01:35:02,421
I hope I can be somewhat of a mentor for her.
1260
01:35:02,710 --> 01:35:04,086
We're psyched on this ridge here.
1261
01:35:05,050 --> 01:35:07,092
Conrad and Jimmy are the old dads.
1262
01:35:07,093 --> 01:35:11,180
They are going to be going big wall style, toiling away on one gnarly objective.
1263
01:35:11,181 --> 01:35:14,308
Conrad showed up in base camp and within an hour
1264
01:35:14,309 --> 01:35:15,851
had sighted the route.
1265
01:35:15,852 --> 01:35:19,104
A new route on the north-west buttress of Ulvetanna.
1266
01:35:19,105 --> 01:35:20,064
It's definitely the biggest.
1267
01:35:20,065 --> 01:35:21,982
He was like "Alright, that's the one!"
1268
01:35:21,983 --> 01:35:24,402
and I took a look at it and I was like "yeah..."
1269
01:35:24,945 --> 01:35:27,404
Going big wall climbing!
1270
01:35:27,405 --> 01:35:28,322
I guess...
1271
01:35:28,323 --> 01:35:30,407
Honnold and I are team suffer-fest.
1272
01:35:30,408 --> 01:35:32,826
Yeah, we're going to sketch-up as many of these towers as we can.
1273
01:35:32,827 --> 01:35:34,828
Alex made the rack but I don't really like it.
1274
01:35:34,829 --> 01:35:36,664
I'm maybe going to sneak a couple pieces on.
1275
01:35:36,665 --> 01:35:38,500
Alright guys, love you, we'll see you.
1276
01:35:42,930 --> 01:35:45,924
I mean, Jesus, these are huge mountains!
1277
01:35:46,675 --> 01:35:48,008
God, what a surreal place.
1278
01:35:48,009 --> 01:35:48,842
It's is insane!
1279
01:35:48,843 --> 01:35:50,886
I'm starting to get sort of,
1280
01:35:50,887 --> 01:35:51,428
Stoked?
1281
01:35:51,429 --> 01:35:52,012
sort of inspired.
1282
01:35:52,013 --> 01:35:56,393
More than any other place I've ever been, I feel like we are not meant to be here.
1283
01:35:57,394 --> 01:35:59,770
If something were to go wrong, it would be pretty bad.
1284
01:35:59,771 --> 01:36:01,981
I'm a nurse but I can't do anything, you know,
1285
01:36:01,982 --> 01:36:04,650
if a Band-aid can't fix it you're kind of fucked out here.
1286
01:36:04,651 --> 01:36:06,361
Wait, am I allowed to say "fuck"? Okay.
1287
01:36:07,946 --> 01:36:10,114
This is going to be do I sink or do I swim?
1288
01:36:10,115 --> 01:36:11,533
And i'm really hoping that I swim.
1289
01:36:14,870 --> 01:36:16,204
It's so crumbly!
1290
01:36:16,621 --> 01:36:20,750
It's mentally challenging, because everything is so fragile and rotten and wind-blown.
1291
01:36:23,253 --> 01:36:23,962
This is sick!
1292
01:36:28,550 --> 01:36:30,169
It's just really hard to grasp the scale here.
1293
01:36:30,451 --> 01:36:31,594
How big do you think it is?
1294
01:36:31,595 --> 01:36:33,929
I'm going to bet that that's maybe 1,500 feet.
1295
01:36:33,930 --> 01:36:35,223
Looks like it could be really scary.
1296
01:36:36,646 --> 01:36:39,561
Honnold's down there, so far three pieces of protection
1297
01:36:42,856 --> 01:36:45,066
Yeah, so try not to fall suddenly but I got you.
1298
01:36:45,483 --> 01:36:47,443
The wind starts to go, then you get cold,
1299
01:36:47,444 --> 01:36:50,112
or if you go into the shade then you get really cold,
1300
01:36:50,113 --> 01:36:51,697
and the problem is there's basically this ticking clock
1301
01:36:51,698 --> 01:36:53,673
that your hands are going to turn into icy bricks,
1302
01:36:53,674 --> 01:36:56,085
and if you don't either get to the top and start rappelling
1303
01:36:56,080 --> 01:36:59,100
or just start rappelling you're going to freeze.
1304
01:36:59,247 --> 01:37:00,664
God, my hands are so cold!
1305
01:37:00,665 --> 01:37:05,085
Dream realized, first ascent of an incredible route.
1306
01:37:05,086 --> 01:37:07,172
Oh yeah! Dude we did it.
1307
01:37:09,007 --> 01:37:13,220
Okay. We're basically embarking on a Yosemite style wall.
1308
01:37:13,553 --> 01:37:17,264
Big wall climbing. It's actually kind of complex.
1309
01:37:17,265 --> 01:37:21,185
We were nervous going up but we like it, and we like to challenge ourselves.
1310
01:37:21,186 --> 01:37:22,687
Alright, Conrad. You racked?
1311
01:37:26,775 --> 01:37:29,069
Okay, ready to haul, Conrad!
1312
01:37:29,194 --> 01:37:30,402
Jimmy's coming up.
1313
01:37:30,403 --> 01:37:37,451
It's a big kind of complex mountain and a lot of the aid climbing feels like bomb diffusion
1314
01:37:37,452 --> 01:37:41,164
because at any moment, your cams could just explode out of the cracks.
1315
01:37:42,499 --> 01:37:46,585
Jimmy and I made it up the first two pitches, and for now we are fixing ropes
1316
01:37:46,586 --> 01:37:48,379
and returning to camp each day.
1317
01:37:48,380 --> 01:37:50,047
There's still a lot of mountain left.
1318
01:37:50,048 --> 01:37:51,216
Yeah, a lot.
1319
01:37:55,220 --> 01:37:57,138
Conrad!
1320
01:37:58,139 --> 01:38:01,475
There's a little close-knit community we're developing here over this expedition
1321
01:38:01,476 --> 01:38:03,602
that I always seek out.
1322
01:38:03,603 --> 01:38:05,396
Yeah, cheese-mac.
1323
01:38:05,397 --> 01:38:07,274
Oh, so good!
1324
01:38:07,566 --> 01:38:10,151
I think that all of us saw at least a little bit of God.
1325
01:38:12,487 --> 01:38:14,224
Coming on trips like this distills things down
1326
01:38:14,233 --> 01:38:16,709
to the essence and it recenters you in a certain way.
1327
01:38:17,409 --> 01:38:20,077
Just really awesome to be surrounded by these really motivated
1328
01:38:20,078 --> 01:38:21,037
and strong people.
1329
01:38:25,876 --> 01:38:30,255
Life is tea and coffee in the morning and a little bit of oatmeal and you go climbing.
1330
01:38:42,184 --> 01:38:44,060
That's a big cam there.
1331
01:38:45,061 --> 01:38:46,479
For a big crack!
1332
01:38:46,813 --> 01:38:49,149
This route had a lot of wide climbing
1333
01:38:51,067 --> 01:38:52,235
Nice job, Conrad!
1334
01:38:52,819 --> 01:38:55,530
Nothing but wide cracks and it's just miserable.
1335
01:38:57,741 --> 01:39:00,868
Off-width to chimney to off-width to chimney to off-width
1336
01:39:00,869 --> 01:39:02,913
and it's just brutal.
1337
01:39:09,419 --> 01:39:12,838
Oh, exciting moment: almost getting stuck in this chimney up there.
1338
01:39:12,839 --> 01:39:16,285
I got in there and im like, for a moment there in my mind I'm like,
1339
01:39:16,313 --> 01:39:21,828
"I'm going to be stuck in a chimney in Antarctica and I'm just going to freeze here."
1340
01:39:21,848 --> 01:39:28,020
Everyday Conrad and Jimmy would go out, jug up, do like a pitch or two,
1341
01:39:28,021 --> 01:39:30,856
come back to camp totally worked and thrashed,
1342
01:39:30,857 --> 01:39:33,359
I think Honnold and I were like "What are you guys doing up there?"
1343
01:39:33,360 --> 01:39:35,278
This is what Ulvetanna has done to me.
1344
01:39:36,154 --> 01:39:38,532
Oh, how about this one? Did that happen today?
1345
01:39:39,115 --> 01:39:41,117
Nurse, the cuff isn't warmed up.
1346
01:39:42,285 --> 01:39:44,203
Conrad had a heart attack last year.
1347
01:39:44,204 --> 01:39:49,291
I've been monitoring his blood pressure and his vital signs so I can just keep track of things.
1348
01:39:49,292 --> 01:39:51,086
He's a pillar of health.
1349
01:39:51,545 --> 01:39:52,420
For an old guy.
1350
01:39:53,380 --> 01:39:56,590
He's been on the road to recovery, I was concerned about it.
1351
01:39:56,591 --> 01:40:00,886
But I also trust Conrad's decisions.
1352
01:40:00,887 --> 01:40:06,976
Conrad's been doing first ascents for over 30 years. There's a reason he is still alive.
1353
01:40:06,977 --> 01:40:11,815
He knows how to push the risk right to the edge without going over the edge.
1354
01:40:14,901 --> 01:40:17,946
We're loving life here on Ulvetanna!
1355
01:40:21,644 --> 01:40:21,981
Rock!
1356
01:40:23,994 --> 01:40:26,121
This has got to be somebody's worst nightmare though.
1357
01:40:28,164 --> 01:40:30,499
I guess for Jimmy and I it's a good time to hang out together
1358
01:40:30,500 --> 01:40:34,462
and an anecdote to getting stuck in traffic.
1359
01:40:38,508 --> 01:40:42,261
Cedar and I climb in a very different way than Jimmy and Conrad.
1360
01:40:42,262 --> 01:40:46,015
I think that they're willing to push a little further and push closer to the edge
1361
01:40:46,016 --> 01:40:47,934
than Conrad and I are.
1362
01:40:48,185 --> 01:40:51,729
We just grew up climbing with a more modern speed style
1363
01:40:51,730 --> 01:40:53,522
with tactics that are normal to us.
1364
01:40:53,523 --> 01:40:56,818
But I think to Jimmy and Conrad those represent extreme climbing.
1365
01:40:57,444 --> 01:40:58,569
That pile is all going.
1366
01:40:58,570 --> 01:40:59,570
Hand it to me real quick.
1367
01:40:59,571 --> 01:41:02,032
Well no, you can just pack while I lead. That's kind of the point.
1368
01:41:02,073 --> 01:41:03,742
Fricken hate climbing in sunglasses, I can't see anything.
1369
01:41:05,368 --> 01:41:08,037
Yeah he's possibly the world's most impatient human.
1370
01:41:08,038 --> 01:41:10,956
I'm going to try my very best to take you to the top in one pitch.
1371
01:41:10,957 --> 01:41:12,499
That sounds awful.
1372
01:41:12,500 --> 01:41:14,544
Well if you ever started climbing it would only take half an hour!
1373
01:41:16,630 --> 01:41:17,214
Alright, climbing.
1374
01:41:18,131 --> 01:41:20,283
I think my favorite thing in climbing now
1375
01:41:20,381 --> 01:41:23,407
is going 1,000 feet at a time without having to stop and belay.
1376
01:41:23,678 --> 01:41:24,345
Yeah, Cedar!
1377
01:41:24,346 --> 01:41:26,639
Just climbed 600 feet in thirty minutes.
1378
01:41:26,640 --> 01:41:31,894
By the thousandth foot, with Honnold just blasting and placing like a piece every 75 feet,
1379
01:41:31,895 --> 01:41:33,437
you're starting to get a little winded.
1380
01:41:33,438 --> 01:41:36,107
But there's no stopping, Honnold is just going, and going, and going.
1381
01:41:36,789 --> 01:41:37,664
How was that?
1382
01:41:37,859 --> 01:41:39,318
That was so fun!
1383
01:41:39,319 --> 01:41:40,319
We smoked that thing!
1384
01:41:40,320 --> 01:41:41,362
Yeah!
1385
01:41:41,363 --> 01:41:42,113
Yeah brother!
1386
01:41:43,740 --> 01:41:45,533
Top of the camel!
1387
01:41:45,534 --> 01:41:46,825
Yeah, it was like cardio.
1388
01:41:46,826 --> 01:41:48,452
I told you I was taking us to the top.
1389
01:41:48,453 --> 01:41:51,455
To do a single-pitch, 2,000 foot route?
1390
01:41:51,456 --> 01:41:53,542
Yeah that's next gen, that's next level.
1391
01:41:54,501 --> 01:41:56,502
Alex and I are not skiers.
1392
01:41:56,503 --> 01:41:57,628
I'm a good skier, dude.
1393
01:41:57,629 --> 01:42:00,339
You're fucking not a good skier!
1394
01:42:00,340 --> 01:42:02,508
Jimmy is Alex a good skier?
1395
01:42:02,509 --> 01:42:04,277
He fricken rips!
1396
01:42:04,384 --> 01:42:07,909
For about thirty seconds until he starts to starfish down
1397
01:42:07,924 --> 01:42:10,783
and all his fucking clothes start going like "Phew!"
1398
01:42:10,787 --> 01:42:12,227
I'm so glad I didn't break my rib.
1399
01:42:14,234 --> 01:42:16,690
I fricken hit so hard, I was like "Ohhh."
1400
01:42:18,358 --> 01:42:20,484
Cedar and Alex have a hilarious relationship.
1401
01:42:20,485 --> 01:42:21,735
It's like the Odd Couple.
1402
01:42:21,736 --> 01:42:26,156
I'm pretty sure he is using that axe strictly for ornamentation. Just because it looks cool.
1403
01:42:26,157 --> 01:42:27,950
I'm using it for fear of dying!
1404
01:42:27,951 --> 01:42:30,953
They're both odd, and thus they both get each other.
1405
01:42:30,954 --> 01:42:32,413
How's it going up there, Cedar?
1406
01:42:32,414 --> 01:42:34,765
Oh, you know, living the dream!
1407
01:42:34,776 --> 01:42:36,034
You're looking like a real adventurer.
1408
01:42:36,406 --> 01:42:38,048
It's kind of fucked up.
1409
01:42:38,046 --> 01:42:39,107
I think you're looking great though.
1410
01:42:39,212 --> 01:42:41,914
Selfie video, this is what I do while I belay Cedar.
1411
01:42:41,923 --> 01:42:44,471
Admire the peaks, oh yeah, there's, um...
1412
01:42:44,300 --> 01:42:45,947
It's snowy, I don't like the snow. [Cedar]
1413
01:42:45,719 --> 01:42:48,159
I don't know how you say the name, it's Norwegian...
1414
01:42:48,179 --> 01:42:49,497
Oh! Oh God. [Cedar]
1415
01:42:48,753 --> 01:42:51,724
There's the infinite white abyss...
1416
01:42:51,725 --> 01:42:52,615
That was scary. [Cedar]
1417
01:42:52,934 --> 01:42:55,269
And there you go; selfie video tour complete.
1418
01:42:55,270 --> 01:42:56,228
Alright, watch me here! [Cedar]
1419
01:42:56,354 --> 01:42:57,938
And I can make sure i'm not too sunburnt,
1420
01:42:58,231 --> 01:42:59,690
My lips aren't too chapped.
1421
01:42:59,691 --> 01:43:01,260
Life is good here in Antarctica.
1422
01:43:01,256 --> 01:43:02,803
Okay it looks all steep and scary from here.
1423
01:43:04,539 --> 01:43:06,655
Yeah brother! Woo!
1424
01:43:06,656 --> 01:43:07,980
Yeah nice work!
1425
01:43:08,052 --> 01:43:10,052
Woohoo! Stoked!
1426
01:43:10,493 --> 01:43:13,495
So Cedar and I have basically been blitzing out, doing something as quickly as possible,
1427
01:43:13,496 --> 01:43:17,042
it's all slightly scary, it's all kind of cold, then we'd run back to camp.
1428
01:43:19,012 --> 01:43:19,628
Nice Honnold!
1429
01:43:20,921 --> 01:43:22,087
Oh yeah!
1430
01:43:22,088 --> 01:43:22,880
So fun!
1431
01:43:22,881 --> 01:43:23,923
That was pretty awesome, huh?
1432
01:43:23,924 --> 01:43:25,759
Dude, I think we're like pro skiers now.
1433
01:43:25,884 --> 01:43:29,011
A couple of the missions we've done we've come back into camp completely shell-shocked
1434
01:43:29,012 --> 01:43:32,432
and just been like "Need water, need calories, need hugs!"
1435
01:43:34,559 --> 01:43:35,879
Can I put my toes in your armpits?
1436
01:43:35,886 --> 01:43:36,060
No.
1437
01:43:36,061 --> 01:43:37,520
Ah, alright. Just checking.
1438
01:43:37,521 --> 01:43:38,395
That's a no?
1439
01:43:38,396 --> 01:43:39,093
Yea, that's a hard no.
1440
01:43:40,065 --> 01:43:45,121
Cedar and Alex have been absolutely crushing out here. It's really, really cool to see.
1441
01:43:45,737 --> 01:43:50,700
We are going to go climb that finger thing over there, and I'm going to try and shoot photos.
1442
01:43:55,497 --> 01:43:57,110
Just a little bit, little cold.
1443
01:43:58,667 --> 01:44:03,255
To me, this is one of the most outrageous mountain ranges that I've ever been in.
1444
01:44:05,507 --> 01:44:06,633
We're almost there!
1445
01:44:15,016 --> 01:44:16,600
It's so cold!
1446
01:44:16,601 --> 01:44:17,476
Nice job!
1447
01:44:17,477 --> 01:44:18,770
My mouth is so numb.
1448
01:44:19,855 --> 01:44:22,774
Just from being cold, I feel like I'm talking really slow.
1449
01:44:24,860 --> 01:44:28,112
We had a lot of fun being up there, and that's what I like doing in climbing.
1450
01:44:28,113 --> 01:44:31,709
I like just going out and having fun. I don't like feeling I'm going to die all the time.
1451
01:44:31,716 --> 01:44:35,662
We are going to go climb that thing right there. Holtanna.
1452
01:44:36,496 --> 01:44:41,542
These conditions, climbing bad rock in really, really cold weather,
1453
01:44:41,543 --> 01:44:42,774
I don't know what could happen.
1454
01:44:43,670 --> 01:44:46,923
I don't know, it's fucking cold. Maybe I need to climb with down pants on.
1455
01:44:47,549 --> 01:44:50,217
Got pretty scared up there because the rock is super chossy,
1456
01:44:50,218 --> 01:44:53,846
and it's so remote and so desolate, you want to be extra careful.
1457
01:44:53,847 --> 01:44:56,099
Alright now we just need to not die on the ice going down.
1458
01:44:57,684 --> 01:44:58,560
Look out there, it's sick!
1459
01:45:00,854 --> 01:45:01,854
Will you do me a huge favor?
1460
01:45:01,855 --> 01:45:02,479
Yeah, what do you need?
1461
01:45:02,480 --> 01:45:04,940
Would you grab a spoonful of cold water?
1462
01:45:04,941 --> 01:45:05,316
Yeah,
1463
01:45:05,317 --> 01:45:05,774
Or like a...
1464
01:45:05,775 --> 01:45:06,275
Is it too hot?
1465
01:45:06,276 --> 01:45:07,568
Yeah.
1466
01:45:07,569 --> 01:45:12,782
Nine out of my ten toes are really good, but the tenth toe is really bad.
1467
01:45:14,451 --> 01:45:18,662
It's kind of black with a slight hint of blue.
1468
01:45:18,663 --> 01:45:20,998
I think everybody thought my toe was going to fall off,
1469
01:45:20,999 --> 01:45:25,962
I was going to be the one in Antarctica to get frostbite or maybe I had it, I don't know.
1470
01:45:35,430 --> 01:45:40,601
You know when it's blowing and it's snowing on your tent pretty heavily
1471
01:45:40,602 --> 01:45:42,521
that you get to stay in your sleeping bag.
1472
01:45:43,230 --> 01:45:45,690
Our scene is better than anybody else's.
1473
01:45:51,279 --> 01:45:56,535
It looks ten times as good! Yeah. See, that looks way better.
1474
01:45:58,245 --> 01:46:00,427
Sav is making my pictures look a lot better.
1475
01:46:00,807 --> 01:46:04,083
I was kind of surprised Jimmy was asking me for editing advice.
1476
01:46:04,084 --> 01:46:07,002
You just let me know what I can do to help you out.
1477
01:46:07,003 --> 01:46:08,963
Let's see before and after.
1478
01:46:08,964 --> 01:46:11,132
Holy shit balls!
1479
01:46:11,716 --> 01:46:18,890
Savannah, she has an incredible eye and the potential to go really far with her work.
1480
01:46:19,224 --> 01:46:20,643
It's cool being here with Jimmy.
1481
01:46:20,682 --> 01:46:23,886
I have looked up to him since I became a photographer for a while now
1482
01:46:23,895 --> 01:46:27,273
and I'm just going into it with open eyes of what can I learn.
1483
01:46:27,274 --> 01:46:28,191
It's Spa Day!
1484
01:46:30,986 --> 01:46:34,865
Wow, I was starting to feel like I was basically a piece of fungus, you know what I mean?
1485
01:46:36,700 --> 01:46:37,993
It's so gross!
1486
01:46:38,952 --> 01:46:42,288
So after a couple of weeks, pushing the first ascent as high as they could,
1487
01:46:42,289 --> 01:46:44,373
Conrad and Jimmy had run out of ropes to fix.
1488
01:46:44,374 --> 01:46:45,124
This is your food,
1489
01:46:45,125 --> 01:46:47,209
Our food, fuel.
1490
01:46:47,210 --> 01:46:50,839
It was time for them to cut the cord and commit to the wall.
1491
01:46:51,256 --> 01:46:52,966
And they're going to be up there for four or five days.
1492
01:46:54,384 --> 01:46:56,969
Yeah it'll be an incredible view from up there,
1493
01:46:56,970 --> 01:46:59,806
hopefully, fingers crossed, we stay warm.
1494
01:47:06,730 --> 01:47:09,815
Ah, fuck. That was big.
1495
01:47:09,816 --> 01:47:14,779
Made the ridge. This spot is insane! Look at where we are.
1496
01:47:15,906 --> 01:47:18,658
I just love pushing out into the unknown.
1497
01:47:21,077 --> 01:47:22,287
Ah, yeah!
1498
01:47:22,744 --> 01:47:24,206
It's good to be out here!
1499
01:47:24,219 --> 01:47:25,420
Woo!
1500
01:47:27,610 --> 01:47:33,048
It's a long day on half of an energy bar and four sips of water.
1501
01:47:33,757 --> 01:47:35,716
You know who I'm glad I'm not right now is Jimmy and Conrad
1502
01:47:35,717 --> 01:47:38,720
because they're up there and it is snowing and not that good.
1503
01:47:45,185 --> 01:47:46,478
Good job, proud, man!
1504
01:47:48,438 --> 01:47:50,065
This is insane!
1505
01:47:54,152 --> 01:47:58,155
I think the big thing about Jimmy and Conrad is that they're both really tough.
1506
01:47:58,156 --> 01:48:00,908
And we got to go up there.
1507
01:48:00,909 --> 01:48:02,409
Looking gnarly today.
1508
01:48:02,410 --> 01:48:05,618
There'd be days I got chilled and I'd be cold and I'd be like "Jimmy, you're up."
1509
01:48:07,541 --> 01:48:09,625
Oh, rock, rock, rock!
1510
01:48:09,626 --> 01:48:10,626
You okay?
1511
01:48:10,627 --> 01:48:13,003
And then he'd get tired and I'd pick up the slack.
1512
01:48:13,004 --> 01:48:17,926
And that's what partnership is all about. Sharing the workload and then sharing the joy.
1513
01:48:18,468 --> 01:48:22,556
Hopefully the weather is going to break and we'll get some sun one day.
1514
01:48:23,306 --> 01:48:25,850
I think Jimmy and Conrad are probably pretty chilly,
1515
01:48:25,851 --> 01:48:27,996
but either way you kind of only have one direction to go
1516
01:48:27,995 --> 01:48:29,521
so it doesn’t really matter if it's snowing or not
1517
01:48:29,521 --> 01:48:30,437
you just go up.
1518
01:48:30,438 --> 01:48:33,152
Look at that tower still up there.
1519
01:48:33,154 --> 01:48:33,620
Woo!
1520
01:48:34,243 --> 01:48:34,950
Wooo!
1521
01:48:35,110 --> 01:48:38,154
Yeah, Raddish, how was that?
1522
01:48:43,827 --> 01:48:48,122
That's what twelve summits does to you.
1523
01:48:48,123 --> 01:48:50,250
It makes your hands look like a 95-year-old man's.
1524
01:48:50,709 --> 01:48:53,210
Hey Cedar, how much are you going to be carrying gear-wise and stuff?
1525
01:48:53,211 --> 01:48:54,295
What's that?
1526
01:48:54,296 --> 01:48:56,672
I think we both feel like we've just been rolling the dice, rolling the dice,
1527
01:48:56,673 --> 01:48:58,550
and it's how much more of this can we take?
1528
01:49:00,056 --> 01:49:04,180
There's only one summit left for us to have sent every major formation in this valley.
1529
01:49:04,181 --> 01:49:07,726
And of course it's the most burley looking one.
1530
01:49:08,149 --> 01:49:12,521
A guiding principle with my climbing is just to do the hard thing.
1531
01:49:12,522 --> 01:49:17,359
Even if I don't want to, I'll just do the thing that I feel like I'm supposed to do.
1532
01:49:17,360 --> 01:49:20,238
So we're going for it. Stetind, the last summit in Antarctica.
1533
01:49:22,032 --> 01:49:23,033
Alright, go ahead, Honnold.
1534
01:49:24,944 --> 01:49:25,754
Hey, Cedar?
1535
01:49:25,881 --> 01:49:26,619
What's up?
1536
01:49:26,620 --> 01:49:29,371
Can you simul up to that first ledge?
1537
01:49:29,372 --> 01:49:30,372
Okay!
1538
01:49:30,373 --> 01:49:32,082
The rope drag is really bad.
1539
01:49:32,394 --> 01:49:33,057
What?
1540
01:49:33,251 --> 01:49:36,338
Yeah, it's really cold and hard to protect.
1541
01:49:42,219 --> 01:49:44,511
Honnold's on a vision quest up there,
1542
01:49:44,512 --> 01:49:47,640
going really slow. It's really scary face climbing.
1543
01:49:47,641 --> 01:49:49,351
And I am so cold.
1544
01:49:51,228 --> 01:49:52,896
It's hard to put into words how friggen cold I am.
1545
01:49:53,730 --> 01:49:55,981
How's it look up there?
1546
01:49:55,982 --> 01:49:57,107
I don't know!
1547
01:49:57,108 --> 01:49:58,610
It's really rotten.
1548
01:50:01,279 --> 01:50:02,989
Just, I'm really scared. Give me a minute.
1549
01:50:04,824 --> 01:50:08,118
My fingers and toes are totally numb, Cedar was totally numb, we're both shaking,
1550
01:50:08,119 --> 01:50:11,288
and we were like "Oh no, we need to find a way to the top as fast as possible
1551
01:50:11,289 --> 01:50:12,666
because it's all coming apart."
1552
01:50:14,918 --> 01:50:17,211
Climbing with Honnold, I've seen him nervous,
1553
01:50:17,212 --> 01:50:18,838
but this the first time I've seen him scared.
1554
01:50:19,506 --> 01:50:22,091
Yeah, I'm like 20 feet or 30 feet away.
1555
01:50:22,092 --> 01:50:25,971
I'm just gripped out of my dome and cold.
1556
01:50:26,846 --> 01:50:28,931
I could hear the fear in Honnold's voice,
1557
01:50:28,932 --> 01:50:31,142
he was looking at 150 foot fall.
1558
01:50:31,977 --> 01:50:32,602
Complete horror show.
1559
01:50:32,936 --> 01:50:35,229
Cedar, I think this is going to work.
1560
01:50:35,230 --> 01:50:36,982
Try to gain on me a bit.
1561
01:50:37,357 --> 01:50:39,985
Ah, sun! Sun, sun sun!
1562
01:50:40,819 --> 01:50:43,488
This is so next level. This is crazy!
1563
01:50:45,115 --> 01:50:46,449
I'm off belay!
1564
01:50:52,289 --> 01:50:53,290
Goddamn.
1565
01:50:53,832 --> 01:50:58,002
It's maybe the most messed up route, maybe of my life.
1566
01:50:58,003 --> 01:50:59,670
Definitely one of the scariest leads of my life.
1567
01:50:59,671 --> 01:51:01,797
Your hands are so bloody!
1568
01:51:01,798 --> 01:51:04,300
You look like a disaster.
1569
01:51:04,301 --> 01:51:05,218
Yeah, they don't look good.
1570
01:51:06,636 --> 01:51:09,430
Oh, I thought I was going to have to take an emergency dump on lead.
1571
01:51:09,431 --> 01:51:11,558
I was just in full panic, like "Oh, God!"
1572
01:51:19,608 --> 01:51:21,067
You freaking kidding me?
1573
01:51:23,361 --> 01:51:25,071
How would you rate this campsite?
1574
01:51:25,322 --> 01:51:29,075
Oh, 10 out of 10. Best in my whole life.
1575
01:51:30,827 --> 01:51:32,412
You want to listen to a Neil Young album?
1576
01:51:36,041 --> 01:51:41,101
When you're young you're climbing fast, you're taking risks, it's all about you.
1577
01:51:41,282 --> 01:51:42,494
I can clip the shovel.
1578
01:51:42,927 --> 01:51:43,573
Yeah we'll clip it.
1579
01:51:43,683 --> 01:51:44,225
I'll clip it.
1580
01:51:45,425 --> 01:51:48,637
I think for Jimmy and I, our motivations have changed.
1581
01:51:49,763 --> 01:51:53,517
We really just wanted to enjoy the climb, just try to be in the moment.
1582
01:51:57,145 --> 01:51:58,480
Totally surreal.
1583
01:52:04,528 --> 01:52:06,696
We're old but we sure are slow!
1584
01:52:09,074 --> 01:52:10,325
Thank God it doesn't get dark.
1585
01:52:13,662 --> 01:52:17,289
Climbing is... it's the craziest thing in the world.
1586
01:52:17,290 --> 01:52:20,715
I couldn't live without it, I wake up in the morning and I want to go climbing.
1587
01:52:20,719 --> 01:52:23,317
But it's been, also, the most fucked up thing.
1588
01:52:23,323 --> 01:52:28,194
I've lost friends and it's been the most despondent, despairing low points of my life.
1589
01:52:30,011 --> 01:52:33,223
Conrad's up there, battling.
1590
01:52:34,933 --> 01:52:37,519
Oh, yeah.
1591
01:52:39,896 --> 01:52:41,146
People ask me "When are you going to quit?"
1592
01:52:41,147 --> 01:52:44,985
But I have no plans to quit. Why quit?
1593
01:52:47,904 --> 01:52:49,405
Yeah, Jimmy!
1594
01:52:49,406 --> 01:52:51,199
That's the South Pole out there.
1595
01:52:53,076 --> 01:52:57,411
Climbing is my life and I will continue to do it as long as I have friends to share it with.
1596
01:52:57,608 --> 01:52:59,373
How cold is it, Conrad?
1597
01:52:59,374 --> 01:53:00,417
-3.
1598
01:53:02,919 --> 01:53:05,505
And as long as my body allows me to do it.
1599
01:53:06,089 --> 01:53:10,509
So I can see Conrad and Jimmy, they are way the heck up there,
1600
01:53:10,510 --> 01:53:13,179
looks to me like they are going to make the summit.
1601
01:53:13,638 --> 01:53:15,056
Almost there, Conrad!
1602
01:53:15,432 --> 01:53:18,518
Yeah, buddy, there it is!
1603
01:53:27,068 --> 01:53:28,987
Yeah, Jimmy! Love you, man.
1604
01:53:38,761 --> 01:53:40,331
This is amazing.
1605
01:53:43,972 --> 01:53:47,308
What would you say was the most valuable factor on an expedition?
1606
01:53:47,807 --> 01:53:54,020
Is it morale, or physical courage?
1607
01:53:54,616 --> 01:53:56,076
Or is it your equipment?
1608
01:53:57,387 --> 01:54:01,892
Well I've always thought that loyalty was by far the most important thing.
1609
01:54:08,350 --> 01:54:10,644
You lived, dude! Congratulations, man!
1610
01:54:10,934 --> 01:54:11,684
Thank you!
1611
01:54:12,815 --> 01:54:13,523
Was it epic?
1612
01:54:14,223 --> 01:54:18,978
It was, I mean, it felt annoying because of the cold.
1613
01:54:27,885 --> 01:54:32,139
Oh my God! Tortellini! Are you kidding me?
1614
01:54:33,176 --> 01:54:37,596
The most extreme moment in the entire Antarctica expedition,
1615
01:54:37,597 --> 01:54:40,266
Savannah Cummins...
1616
01:54:40,267 --> 01:54:40,976
dropping in!
1617
01:54:42,185 --> 01:54:43,436
And she's off, ladies and gentlemen.
1618
01:54:48,233 --> 01:54:49,860
Hey, careful with the baby!
1619
01:54:50,235 --> 01:54:51,736
He's just a little baby!
1620
01:54:52,737 --> 01:54:56,407
I feel so fortunate to come here and not just climb but climb a lot.
1621
01:54:56,408 --> 01:55:00,328
In fact as a team I think we climbed pretty much everything.
1622
01:55:01,305 --> 01:56:01,219
Support us and become VIP member
to remove all ads from www.OpenSubtitles.org
128151
Can't find what you're looking for?
Get subtitles in any language from opensubtitles.com, and translate them here.