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Twelve kilometers to go.
4
00:01:40,440 --> 00:01:41,560
Oh, I'm dead!
5
00:01:41,720 --> 00:01:44,800
I've already covered 30 kilometers.
6
00:01:44,920 --> 00:01:47,120
At the moment the damn heat
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00:01:47,200 --> 00:01:50,040
and my worsening condition
are the only things on my mind.
8
00:01:50,160 --> 00:01:53,680
And there's just no water anymore!
9
00:01:53,960 --> 00:01:56,960
I can't feel my legs anymore,
I'm at kilometer 41 â
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00:01:57,160 --> 00:01:58,280
almost at the stadium.
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00:01:58,360 --> 00:01:59,480
But wait.
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00:01:59,640 --> 00:02:01,920
Why am I doing this to myself?
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00:02:02,160 --> 00:02:05,280
And why in Pyongyang of all places?
14
00:02:07,120 --> 00:02:09,000
Well, to explain that,
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00:02:09,080 --> 00:02:11,240
I have to go back a bit.
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00:02:17,520 --> 00:02:21,920
In 2012 the press was full of reports
about North Korea.
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00:02:22,160 --> 00:02:27,760
The North Korean dictator
Kim Jong-Il died in December 2011.
18
00:02:28,760 --> 00:02:32,560
The world was looking forward
to 28-year-old Kim Jong-Un
19
00:02:32,640 --> 00:02:34,920
and what his next steps may be.
20
00:02:36,520 --> 00:02:39,280
An old Asian proverb says:
21
00:02:39,400 --> 00:02:42,880
âIt's better to see something once,
than to hear about it a thousand times.â
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00:02:43,400 --> 00:02:46,520
So why not give ourselves
a firsthand impression?
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00:02:46,960 --> 00:02:50,800
At the start of 2013 we made our decision.
24
00:02:51,240 --> 00:02:55,480
My buddy Phillipp and I
are going to North Korea.
25
00:02:56,080 --> 00:02:59,440
Our first challenge
starts with booking the trip.
26
00:02:59,840 --> 00:03:02,840
Actually, we always travel
to countries on our own.
27
00:03:03,280 --> 00:03:07,160
There is no individual tourism
in North Korea.
28
00:03:07,320 --> 00:03:09,680
Everything including the entry
and exit booking
29
00:03:09,760 --> 00:03:11,960
is taken over by an agency.
30
00:03:12,120 --> 00:03:15,400
Before we enter,
we must declare that we have
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00:03:15,480 --> 00:03:17,600
no journalistic intentions.
32
00:03:17,800 --> 00:03:20,520
Photos only with permission
33
00:03:20,640 --> 00:03:24,640
but above all
no sound or film recordings.
34
00:03:25,160 --> 00:03:29,240
All the following video recordings
were therefore made with my photo camera,
35
00:03:29,320 --> 00:03:31,320
which can also film.
36
00:03:31,600 --> 00:03:34,000
I camouflaged
the blinking red ârecordâ light
37
00:03:34,080 --> 00:03:36,240
with a piece of black duct tape.
38
00:03:37,440 --> 00:03:40,920
We are not aware
of the possible consequences.
39
00:03:41,000 --> 00:03:41,800
But one thing is clear:
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00:03:41,880 --> 00:03:45,440
we want to smuggle as much material
as possible back to Germany.
41
00:03:45,920 --> 00:03:50,120
At that time we do not know yet,
what we intend to do with it later.
42
00:03:50,400 --> 00:03:53,360
There are several ways
to travel to North Korea.
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00:03:53,600 --> 00:03:56,640
We decide to take
a 25 hour train ride
44
00:03:56,720 --> 00:03:58,280
from Beijing to Pyongyang.
45
00:03:58,920 --> 00:04:01,040
That sounds long â and so it is.
46
00:04:01,160 --> 00:04:03,400
But it's worth the trip!
47
00:04:03,680 --> 00:04:07,720
Our first stop is
the Chinese border town Dandong.
48
00:04:10,360 --> 00:04:11,360
We are in the train,
49
00:04:11,440 --> 00:04:14,440
it's close to 11 am
we are about to reach North Korea,
50
00:04:14,520 --> 00:04:16,080
as soon as we have passed the bridge.
51
00:04:16,200 --> 00:04:20,280
They have exchanged carriages.
52
00:04:20,920 --> 00:04:22,240
They have taken our passports
53
00:04:22,320 --> 00:04:26,040
and we are about 200 meters far
from the North Korean boarder.
54
00:04:26,360 --> 00:04:29,720
There is a one-hour time difference.
We'll sit on the train all day.
55
00:04:29,920 --> 00:04:33,840
Don't forget â after the bridge,
the train stops
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00:04:33,920 --> 00:04:39,240
and then our luggage is searched.
57
00:04:54,480 --> 00:04:57,240
Let's see what the countryside
from North Korea looks like.
58
00:06:13,040 --> 00:06:17,240
Arrived in Pyongyang we are picked up
at the station by two guides.
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00:06:17,560 --> 00:06:22,040
They are our watchdogs
for the next seven days.
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00:06:22,640 --> 00:06:24,880
Pyongyang has 3 million inhabitants
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00:06:24,960 --> 00:06:27,720
but only two hotels for foreign visitors.
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00:06:28,080 --> 00:06:30,080
We will stay at the Koryo Hotel.
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00:06:30,720 --> 00:06:34,360
We are looking forward to
a privately guided tour
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00:06:34,480 --> 00:06:37,320
along the achievements of the country.
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00:06:38,280 --> 00:06:40,440
We are driven from door to door
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00:06:40,520 --> 00:06:44,840
and are not allowed to move
alone without our guides.
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00:06:45,360 --> 00:06:47,440
Do you have your flight tickets?
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00:06:47,760 --> 00:06:50,560
-Flight tickets back to Germany?
-Yes, your E-tickets.
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00:06:50,640 --> 00:06:51,640
Sure.
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00:06:52,000 --> 00:06:55,040
Here, from Pyongyang to Beijing.
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00:06:56,600 --> 00:06:59,880
-Correct.
-And here I have from Beijing to Munich.
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00:07:00,480 --> 00:07:04,240
Within North Korea
you will not need your passports.
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00:07:04,360 --> 00:07:08,640
With your guide
you won't need your passport.
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00:07:08,720 --> 00:07:12,320
With us you can go everywhere.
75
00:07:12,720 --> 00:07:17,160
But without your guide
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00:07:17,320 --> 00:07:21,640
you are not allowed
to leave the hotel.
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00:07:21,720 --> 00:07:25,520
All this, I can show you
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00:07:25,760 --> 00:07:27,720
-and we will go and visit those places.
-Okay.
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00:07:27,800 --> 00:07:30,520
We want to visit
the Friendship Exhibition.
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00:07:32,080 --> 00:07:33,320
That's a problem!
81
00:07:34,760 --> 00:07:39,440
-We cannot go to the Myohyang mountains.
-Okay.
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00:07:39,520 --> 00:07:43,640
Because three to four days ago,
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00:07:44,320 --> 00:07:45,720
there was heavy rain.
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00:07:46,160 --> 00:07:49,480
-Two of the main bridges collapsed.
-Okay.
85
00:07:50,280 --> 00:07:52,240
And taking photos...
86
00:07:52,320 --> 00:07:55,400
As you know North Korea
is in state of war!
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00:07:55,840 --> 00:08:02,320
Since April we have
lifted the armed truce.
88
00:08:02,600 --> 00:08:06,120
Therefore, now we have a cease fire.
And that's why...
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00:08:06,880 --> 00:08:10,120
Many things belong to the military.
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00:08:10,400 --> 00:08:13,920
You cannot know which places
belong to the military. Because of this,
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00:08:14,000 --> 00:08:16,240
-you are not allowed to take photos.
-Sure.
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00:08:19,200 --> 00:08:23,680
The peculiarity of the hotel
is a 360° rotating restaurant
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00:08:23,760 --> 00:08:25,520
on the top floor.
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00:08:25,760 --> 00:08:29,360
Upon our arrival,
it is already 11 pm.
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00:08:29,880 --> 00:08:32,280
And yet some tables are still
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00:08:32,360 --> 00:08:35,440
set for up to 8 people,
with food and everything.
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00:08:35,520 --> 00:08:40,200
However, I don't think that anyone else
is coming to dinner today.
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00:08:41,760 --> 00:08:45,040
-So, what do you think?
-I don't know but i'm exhausted.
99
00:08:45,320 --> 00:08:50,560
This arrival
has left me a bit out of sorts.
100
00:08:51,040 --> 00:08:53,680
Nothing is like I expected it
which is not bad.
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00:08:54,560 --> 00:08:57,360
That we're only allowed to stay here
for now is a bit annoying.
102
00:08:57,440 --> 00:09:00,280
I think we should get some sleep,
tomorrow will be a long day.
103
00:09:00,520 --> 00:09:02,440
Here is the hallway...
104
00:09:03,360 --> 00:09:09,960
and here is a somewhat odd little room.
105
00:09:11,400 --> 00:09:14,120
Where you can sit face-to-face.
106
00:09:14,840 --> 00:09:19,560
Then when we turn around
we find our bathroom.
107
00:09:21,760 --> 00:09:26,280
This room is pretty much
like a normal hotel room.
108
00:09:26,440 --> 00:09:29,240
The coolest thing is
that we are on the 33rd floor.
109
00:09:54,160 --> 00:09:56,800
There is excitement in the hotel foyer.
110
00:09:56,920 --> 00:10:00,360
It's the year 2013
and today is 27 July â
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00:10:00,560 --> 00:10:02,760
âVictory Dayâ for North Koreans.
112
00:10:02,880 --> 00:10:06,800
Many international guests have come
especially for the occasion
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00:10:07,360 --> 00:10:09,960
to celebrate the end of the Korean War,
114
00:10:10,040 --> 00:10:14,360
which lasted from 1950 to 1953,
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00:10:14,560 --> 00:10:19,240
and ended with the signing
of the ceasefire agreement.
116
00:10:20,200 --> 00:10:25,880
In fact, both halves of Korea
are still on war footing.
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00:10:26,280 --> 00:10:27,080
-Morning!
-Morning!
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00:10:27,160 --> 00:10:29,040
-Did you sleep well?
-Yes very well,
119
00:10:29,120 --> 00:10:31,840
-first real sleep in a long time.
-Okay...
120
00:10:32,080 --> 00:10:36,080
I'm afraid, we are not allowed
to go outside.
121
00:10:36,360 --> 00:10:37,640
I can imagine.
122
00:10:37,720 --> 00:10:40,800
-Have you seen what's going on outside?
-Everything is blocked.
123
00:10:42,280 --> 00:10:46,560
Do you see?
Everything is shut down.
124
00:10:46,680 --> 00:10:53,640
We have to wait here till
all representatives are through.
125
00:10:53,840 --> 00:10:55,120
I understand.
126
00:10:56,880 --> 00:10:58,680
Can we quickly grab some breakfast?
127
00:10:58,960 --> 00:10:59,760
No.
128
00:11:04,720 --> 00:11:06,960
According to reports
from South Korean media,
129
00:11:07,080 --> 00:11:09,320
this is the first time since 1993
130
00:11:09,400 --> 00:11:14,160
that Victory Day is being celebrated
with a military parade.
131
00:11:14,720 --> 00:11:18,440
Thousands of soldiers march
or drive past us in tanks.
132
00:11:18,800 --> 00:11:21,320
It stinks of gasoline.
133
00:11:52,680 --> 00:11:54,440
And also quite annoying:
134
00:11:54,520 --> 00:11:58,200
the loudspeaker cars that have been
driving through the city for days.
135
00:11:58,440 --> 00:12:01,080
For us only incomprehensible slogans
136
00:12:01,160 --> 00:12:04,240
and North Korean marching music
resound through the streets.
137
00:12:04,400 --> 00:12:08,320
Even days later, it still takes some time
to get used to the permanent sound.
138
00:12:08,960 --> 00:12:12,280
In general,
the military is insanely present.
139
00:12:53,520 --> 00:12:56,720
How many soldiers
are in the Korean army?
140
00:12:56,840 --> 00:12:59,120
It's a huge army, right?
141
00:12:59,720 --> 00:13:01,120
Three hundred thousand.
142
00:13:01,360 --> 00:13:02,520
-Really?
-Yes.
143
00:13:03,080 --> 00:13:04,720
Why do you grin when you say that?
144
00:13:05,240 --> 00:13:08,000
Our government says so.
145
00:13:09,760 --> 00:13:11,000
I think it's a lot.
146
00:13:11,440 --> 00:13:12,800
But...
147
00:13:12,880 --> 00:13:17,200
all the foreigners like the German,
Austrian and Swiss tourists
148
00:13:17,280 --> 00:13:18,680
don't believe it.
149
00:13:19,280 --> 00:13:23,320
The European media says
150
00:13:23,600 --> 00:13:27,160
we have over one million soldiers.
151
00:13:27,600 --> 00:13:31,120
Why do you let American tourists
in the country?
152
00:13:31,640 --> 00:13:33,840
Aren't they the enemy?
153
00:13:37,920 --> 00:13:40,280
-But it's about the government.
-Sorry?
154
00:13:40,560 --> 00:13:45,600
The American government.
Not the American people.
155
00:13:45,840 --> 00:13:49,000
But the American citizens
want to visit North Korea.
156
00:13:49,960 --> 00:13:50,960
-That's why.
-Okay.
157
00:13:51,040 --> 00:13:52,160
So the American people
are okay, but...
158
00:13:52,240 --> 00:13:55,040
Yes, the people are okay,
just not the government and the soldiers.
159
00:13:55,120 --> 00:13:56,800
But...
160
00:13:57,840 --> 00:14:01,600
You're saying the average North Korean
has no problem with Americans?
161
00:14:01,920 --> 00:14:03,520
-No.
-No?
162
00:14:04,880 --> 00:14:11,240
If a Korean knows
his facial expression might be...
163
00:14:11,400 --> 00:14:12,800
-Reserved.
-Yes.
164
00:14:13,400 --> 00:14:14,440
But...
165
00:14:16,000 --> 00:14:19,880
Usually most Koreans couldn't tell
if someone is American,
166
00:14:20,120 --> 00:14:22,840
unless I explain it to them.
167
00:14:24,280 --> 00:14:29,160
But most Koreans know it's allowed
168
00:14:29,320 --> 00:14:33,960
for the Americans to come here
by our government.
169
00:14:34,160 --> 00:14:38,680
Nevertheless, we met two American soldiers
in the elevator of our hotel,
170
00:14:38,760 --> 00:14:42,680
who traveled to North Korea
on the occasion of the war anniversary.
171
00:14:42,920 --> 00:14:45,640
We met two Americans in the elevator,
172
00:14:45,720 --> 00:14:49,640
and they said they were searching...
For what again?
173
00:14:49,720 --> 00:14:50,960
For a crashed airplane,
174
00:14:51,040 --> 00:14:53,560
they are searching for the corpses
of a crashed plane.
175
00:14:53,800 --> 00:14:55,480
It happened like 60 years ago.
176
00:14:55,600 --> 00:14:58,800
Yes, they were looking for the remains.
177
00:14:58,960 --> 00:15:02,360
-For their bones!
-Yes, for their bones.
178
00:15:03,320 --> 00:15:04,240
Yes.
179
00:15:04,720 --> 00:15:10,920
North Koreas Military
and Americas Military
180
00:15:11,200 --> 00:15:15,520
they made an agreement
that allows these Americans to come
181
00:15:15,600 --> 00:15:17,560
and search for bodies from the war.
182
00:15:17,720 --> 00:15:20,080
But who goes with them
to search for the bodies?
183
00:15:20,280 --> 00:15:23,440
Korean soldiers go with them.
184
00:15:24,080 --> 00:15:25,080
Are there still any problem regions
185
00:15:25,160 --> 00:15:28,800
where the government has conflicts
with different ethnic groups?
186
00:15:33,080 --> 00:15:37,840
We don't have different
ethnic groups in North Korea.
187
00:15:37,960 --> 00:15:40,080
-There are only North Koreans?
-One nation only.
188
00:15:40,160 --> 00:15:42,400
-Absolutely homogenous?
-Yes.
189
00:15:42,720 --> 00:15:48,160
We are always alone on the bus.
Because we have booked an individual trip.
190
00:15:48,280 --> 00:15:52,680
Which means, that you always have
an entire bus for yourself.
191
00:15:53,360 --> 00:15:55,840
Always accompanied by three guides.
192
00:15:58,200 --> 00:16:03,760
North Korea gets support
from the World Hunger Relief Organization
193
00:16:03,880 --> 00:16:05,120
You know about that?
194
00:16:05,200 --> 00:16:06,440
Yes, is it true?
195
00:16:06,520 --> 00:16:07,840
-Yes, sure.
-Okay.
196
00:16:08,120 --> 00:16:11,880
-Nearly all developing countries get help.
-Okay.
197
00:16:12,640 --> 00:16:19,480
But they don't play a big role.
198
00:16:19,560 --> 00:16:22,960
I don't know where the âWorld Hunger Aidâ
support takes place
199
00:16:23,040 --> 00:16:26,800
and what results they achieve.
200
00:16:28,560 --> 00:16:33,880
I don't know where the poor people live.
201
00:16:35,200 --> 00:16:37,440
You mean,
you don't see poor people around?
202
00:16:40,040 --> 00:16:43,040
We quickly realized
that conversations of this kind
203
00:16:43,120 --> 00:16:44,800
are hardly possible.
204
00:16:45,200 --> 00:16:47,920
If there is something that is revealing
or interesting to us,
205
00:16:48,000 --> 00:16:51,640
it is often interrupted
by the other guide.
206
00:16:52,160 --> 00:16:55,640
Is that just a feeling
or are they not only looking out for us,
207
00:16:55,880 --> 00:16:58,280
but also controlling each other?
208
00:16:59,240 --> 00:17:03,120
One of those many questions,
which of course we can't ask.
209
00:17:03,320 --> 00:17:04,600
At least not
210
00:17:04,680 --> 00:17:08,840
if we want to leave the country
safely with our footage.
211
00:17:09,200 --> 00:17:13,480
In search of experts
we find Prof. Dr. Rüdiger Frank.
212
00:17:13,880 --> 00:17:17,160
If anyone knows North Korea, it's him!
213
00:17:17,600 --> 00:17:21,080
People who work together with foreigners
214
00:17:21,200 --> 00:17:23,040
seldomly do this alone.
215
00:17:23,160 --> 00:17:25,240
There's always at least two of them.
216
00:17:25,480 --> 00:17:28,720
So they can keep an eye on each other.
217
00:17:29,240 --> 00:17:33,480
They also have to write reports
about their encounters.
218
00:17:33,560 --> 00:17:38,160
The reports are then compared
for accuracy.
219
00:17:38,840 --> 00:17:40,760
So that one is never sure
220
00:17:40,840 --> 00:17:44,840
if their interaction with foreigners
has gone unobserved.
221
00:17:44,960 --> 00:17:48,360
Which makes the system very effective
especially regarding self-censorship.
222
00:17:50,320 --> 00:17:53,920
Afterwards we drive to a photo exhibition
about Kim Jong Un.
223
00:17:54,240 --> 00:17:58,360
Here we learn more about
the military strength of North Korea.
224
00:17:59,520 --> 00:18:00,680
She speaks English.
225
00:18:00,760 --> 00:18:03,440
-Hey, how are you?
-Fine, thanks and you?
226
00:18:03,840 --> 00:18:06,720
I'm good.
So tell us a bit about the photos.
227
00:18:06,920 --> 00:18:08,200
-Let's start from there.
-Okay.
228
00:18:08,360 --> 00:18:10,600
When the war broke out...
229
00:18:11,280 --> 00:18:14,400
we didn't have much power, but the US...
230
00:18:14,800 --> 00:18:19,480
they brought fifteen other countries,
fifteen other following countries
231
00:18:19,560 --> 00:18:20,760
to the Korean war.
232
00:18:21,040 --> 00:18:23,600
It was a very difficult war but anyway â
233
00:18:23,680 --> 00:18:25,240
we smashed it!
234
00:18:25,320 --> 00:18:26,960
-The US?
-The US.
235
00:18:27,040 --> 00:18:29,480
-We are really proud of it!
-Obviously.
236
00:18:30,240 --> 00:18:33,040
It was five years after the liberation
237
00:18:33,240 --> 00:18:35,840
from the Japanese
when the war broke out.
238
00:18:35,920 --> 00:18:38,200
But anyway, we smashed the US
239
00:18:38,280 --> 00:18:41,040
under the wise leadership
of president Kim Il Sung.
240
00:18:41,120 --> 00:18:44,080
Without him, we can't think of victory.
241
00:18:44,400 --> 00:18:48,520
Our army is never weak.
242
00:18:49,280 --> 00:18:50,840
We have...
243
00:18:50,960 --> 00:18:55,760
Our army has grown up
into a invincible revolution force.
244
00:18:55,840 --> 00:18:59,920
Who can defeat any enemy in one stroke.
245
00:19:00,600 --> 00:19:06,000
Comrade Kim Jong Un
is most loyal to his people.
246
00:19:06,080 --> 00:19:11,040
He left as the general secretary
of the party forever
247
00:19:11,120 --> 00:19:15,640
and we elected him as
the first secretary of the party.
248
00:19:15,800 --> 00:19:18,760
So what is his duty?
What does he have to do?
249
00:19:22,880 --> 00:19:25,200
-You know he leads our party.
-Yes.
250
00:19:25,280 --> 00:19:30,000
In our country the party
leads the Korean revolution.
251
00:19:30,240 --> 00:19:33,160
He leads all the Korean people
252
00:19:33,240 --> 00:19:37,360
and the struggle
to build his driving nation.
253
00:19:37,480 --> 00:19:38,280
Okay.
254
00:19:38,920 --> 00:19:44,440
The party is very different
from other parties,
255
00:19:44,640 --> 00:19:47,240
in its role of position.
256
00:19:47,320 --> 00:19:48,680
-You understand that?
-Yes.
257
00:19:49,400 --> 00:19:53,320
-You see these people with flowers?
-Yes, you were a flower girl?
258
00:19:53,440 --> 00:19:55,640
Yes, I was one of them.
259
00:19:56,800 --> 00:19:57,720
Nice.
260
00:19:59,320 --> 00:20:00,880
Why you were selected?
261
00:20:01,200 --> 00:20:02,320
Oh, cause...
262
00:20:02,600 --> 00:20:04,200
cause I'm good.
263
00:20:05,440 --> 00:20:07,400
Cause I was loyal to my job.
264
00:20:07,480 --> 00:20:12,200
I did everything really good,
in this position.
265
00:20:12,520 --> 00:20:13,520
Good, nice.
266
00:20:15,440 --> 00:20:19,480
You like to be, that the countries
come together?
267
00:20:19,560 --> 00:20:20,280
Yeah.
268
00:20:20,400 --> 00:20:22,760
It is our current and greatest wish.
269
00:20:22,920 --> 00:20:25,760
When do you think it can happen?
Do you have any idea?
270
00:20:26,080 --> 00:20:28,600
I am not sure.
We believe one day!
271
00:20:28,680 --> 00:20:31,040
One day? I hope it soon.
272
00:20:31,120 --> 00:20:32,080
Yes, thank you.
273
00:20:32,800 --> 00:20:35,160
Okay. We didn't know that either.
274
00:20:35,320 --> 00:20:40,560
So the North Koreans are desperate
for a reunification with South Korea?
275
00:20:40,800 --> 00:20:42,600
But how should that be possible?
276
00:20:43,120 --> 00:20:47,680
We ask our guides and they take us
to the South Korean border.
277
00:20:51,960 --> 00:20:57,040
The area between North and South Korea
is the so-called DMZ.
278
00:20:57,720 --> 00:21:00,440
The demilitarized zone.
279
00:21:00,800 --> 00:21:04,160
It marks the border
between the two countries.
280
00:21:05,320 --> 00:21:09,000
On the way to the border
we hardly meet any cars.
281
00:21:09,080 --> 00:21:11,280
Why would we?
No one can get out anyway.
282
00:21:11,440 --> 00:21:13,320
Or in.
283
00:21:14,160 --> 00:21:18,840
The demilitarized zone
is a two kilometer strip
284
00:21:18,960 --> 00:21:23,000
of an imaginary demarcation line.
285
00:21:23,280 --> 00:21:25,600
That means a four kilometer strip
286
00:21:25,680 --> 00:21:29,000
that runs a 250 kilometers strip
left and right of the border
287
00:21:29,080 --> 00:21:30,680
from one coast to the other.
288
00:21:30,760 --> 00:21:33,760
Basically, it has been set up
to secure a ceasefire.
289
00:21:34,480 --> 00:21:37,520
Today it actually remains the border
between the two Koreas
290
00:21:37,600 --> 00:21:40,600
as the result of the Korean War.
291
00:21:40,680 --> 00:21:45,640
You can drive through the DMZ at one point
292
00:21:45,720 --> 00:21:48,400
and drive right up
to the demarcation line.
293
00:21:48,480 --> 00:21:50,760
There are these sky-blue buildings
294
00:21:50,840 --> 00:21:54,040
in which the cease fire negotiations
295
00:21:54,120 --> 00:21:57,960
took place from 1951 to 1953
296
00:21:58,040 --> 00:22:01,120
and where today, official communications
between the two countries takes place.
297
00:22:01,200 --> 00:22:04,040
The border runs exactly
through the middle of these buildings.
298
00:22:04,120 --> 00:22:08,160
To create a neutral zone, enabling
the two sides to speak to one another,
299
00:22:08,240 --> 00:22:12,040
without either side
having to leave their own land.
300
00:22:12,720 --> 00:22:16,280
But we still don't really understand
the reunification process.
301
00:22:16,880 --> 00:22:19,080
How exactly is that supposed to work?
302
00:22:20,320 --> 00:22:24,000
How do people of a socialist state
303
00:22:24,200 --> 00:22:28,280
with a strong leadership cult
imagine a reunification
304
00:22:28,440 --> 00:22:32,680
with a state built on the foundations
of capitalism?
305
00:22:33,360 --> 00:22:37,200
When South and North reunite into
one country this is how we want it to be.
306
00:22:41,520 --> 00:22:44,000
-Sovereignty...
-Sovereignty, okay.
307
00:22:44,360 --> 00:22:48,640
Peaceful reunification,
bringing together the entire nation.
308
00:22:48,840 --> 00:22:51,520
One nation, one government, two systems.
309
00:22:51,640 --> 00:22:56,120
Two systems:
socialism and capitalism.
310
00:22:56,800 --> 00:22:58,720
Two governments.
311
00:22:58,960 --> 00:23:00,680
You believe it can work?
312
00:23:01,000 --> 00:23:02,600
It can work.
313
00:23:03,360 --> 00:23:05,080
It must work.
314
00:23:05,280 --> 00:23:10,720
I think it can work
because none will be oppressed.
315
00:23:10,800 --> 00:23:13,280
Everyone can preserve their property.
316
00:23:13,440 --> 00:23:20,000
South Korea can stay capitalist
and we can still be socialist.
317
00:23:20,200 --> 00:23:22,880
-But both...
-...will be united.
318
00:23:22,960 --> 00:23:25,520
-You think it can work?
-Yes.
319
00:23:25,840 --> 00:23:31,440
Could you imagine...
if you say you want a reunification,
320
00:23:31,600 --> 00:23:34,400
but to give up socialism?
321
00:23:34,840 --> 00:23:37,560
Can you imagine that?
322
00:23:38,600 --> 00:23:41,720
-We would not give it up.
-Just hypothetical.
323
00:23:42,640 --> 00:23:45,560
-Just by imagination.
-Just by imagination...
324
00:23:45,960 --> 00:23:47,440
That you say...
325
00:23:47,520 --> 00:23:52,480
you would reunite...
326
00:23:54,000 --> 00:24:00,640
but you would have to give up socialism,
to be reunited.
327
00:24:01,320 --> 00:24:03,000
-You wouldn't do that?
-No.
328
00:24:03,080 --> 00:24:07,200
Do you believe South Korea would
give up capitalism,
329
00:24:07,280 --> 00:24:10,560
only to become
socialist just for the reunion?
330
00:24:14,840 --> 00:24:17,600
Our question remains unanswered.
331
00:24:17,840 --> 00:24:20,440
No one else heard our conversation
332
00:24:20,640 --> 00:24:25,000
and our guide only made
statements loyal to the regime.
333
00:24:25,320 --> 00:24:28,640
Nevertheless, there is a new guide
for us in the evening.
334
00:24:28,920 --> 00:24:34,360
We can only assume that the former guide
has decided to avoid us.
335
00:24:35,880 --> 00:24:40,600
Kind of weird, over time, we developed
closer relationships with our guides.
336
00:24:40,960 --> 00:24:43,440
So we also get personal about some things.
337
00:24:43,680 --> 00:24:47,040
For example, I am interested in
whether it's not exhausting
338
00:24:47,120 --> 00:24:51,360
to be constantly on the road with
tourists for periods of up to two weeks â
339
00:24:51,440 --> 00:24:54,040
without coming home in between.
340
00:24:55,600 --> 00:24:57,520
One of them talks about
his broken marriage
341
00:24:57,600 --> 00:24:59,880
and that the job suits him.
342
00:25:00,200 --> 00:25:02,840
Another one tells me
about his four-year-old daughter,
343
00:25:02,920 --> 00:25:07,040
whom he misses
and who likes Disney just like my niece.
344
00:25:08,040 --> 00:25:11,200
Actually the same topics
as we know from home.
345
00:25:11,280 --> 00:25:15,960
And through which we get a personal
insight into people's everyday lives.
346
00:25:21,040 --> 00:25:26,200
It is estimated that the US Air Force
dropped around 450.000 tons of bombs
347
00:25:26,280 --> 00:25:30,960
and more than 30.000 tons of napalm
over North Korea.
348
00:25:31,080 --> 00:25:35,120
During the war, almost 90%
of Pyongyang was destroyed.
349
00:25:35,200 --> 00:25:38,520
This is naturally reflected
in today's cityscape.
350
00:25:39,080 --> 00:25:42,400
As Berliners, we are familiar
with socialist architecture.
351
00:25:42,560 --> 00:25:47,360
Nevertheless, Pyongyang somehow looks
as if the architecture of the 70's
352
00:25:47,440 --> 00:25:50,440
had been combined
with visions from science fiction.
353
00:25:50,880 --> 00:25:56,480
At first glance, we do not see
a clear social infrastructure.
354
00:25:56,880 --> 00:26:00,240
Almost completely indiscernible
without our guides.
355
00:26:00,600 --> 00:26:03,800
Something we wouldn't normally have.
356
00:26:03,960 --> 00:26:07,920
Back in Berlin we look for someone
who can help us
357
00:26:08,080 --> 00:26:11,400
and find the graduate engineer
Dr. Philipp Meuser.
358
00:26:11,480 --> 00:26:15,840
Architect and publisher
of the âArchitectural Guide of Pyongyangâ.
359
00:26:16,160 --> 00:26:22,040
Pyongyang was an old, homogeneous city
before the Korean War.
360
00:26:22,120 --> 00:26:26,160
What happened is that after the war,
Tabula rasa was made.
361
00:26:26,240 --> 00:26:28,720
The old structure
was completely demolished.
362
00:26:28,880 --> 00:26:34,480
The state has access to land
and ownership does not matter at all.
363
00:26:34,760 --> 00:26:37,920
Urban planners think to themselves:
364
00:26:38,000 --> 00:26:40,600
âThat's great, finally I can do
what I always wanted to do.â
365
00:26:40,680 --> 00:26:44,080
Realize utopias.
And of course, that's what happened there.
366
00:26:44,160 --> 00:26:50,720
Narrow, winding alleys were replaced
by wide main roads,
367
00:26:50,800 --> 00:26:53,600
by modern multi-story buildings.
368
00:26:57,280 --> 00:27:01,720
The architecture is inseparably interwoven
with ideological goals.
369
00:27:02,000 --> 00:27:03,920
When Pyongyang was re-planning,
370
00:27:04,080 --> 00:27:07,000
it oriented itself
on the axis of the Taedong River.
371
00:27:07,160 --> 00:27:09,200
Everywhere visual axes were created
372
00:27:09,280 --> 00:27:13,080
to connect the most important monuments.
373
00:27:13,320 --> 00:27:17,400
The most important axis connects
the bronze monument on Mansu hill
374
00:27:17,480 --> 00:27:20,560
with the memorial in honor
of the founding of the party.
375
00:27:21,800 --> 00:27:24,080
In addition to the recognizable road axes,
376
00:27:24,160 --> 00:27:28,840
the Sungri road forms the most
representative main artery of the city.
377
00:27:29,000 --> 00:27:32,640
It unites a large portion
of the important state buildings.
378
00:27:33,080 --> 00:27:36,440
Along the triumphal arch,
it leads to Mansu Hill
379
00:27:36,520 --> 00:27:38,920
directly to Kim Il Sung Square.
380
00:27:39,080 --> 00:27:44,000
The Kim-Il Sung Square is the urban
and symbolic center of Pyongyang.
381
00:27:44,640 --> 00:27:46,800
From here, the optical connection
382
00:27:46,880 --> 00:27:50,400
to the municipalities
on the eastern riverbank is established.
383
00:27:51,120 --> 00:27:53,000
The monument to the Juche ideology
384
00:27:53,080 --> 00:27:56,360
forms the urban development center
of East Pyongyang.
385
00:28:02,720 --> 00:28:05,400
Another important component
to the cityscape
386
00:28:05,480 --> 00:28:08,400
is the cult of personality
around the Kim family.
387
00:28:18,120 --> 00:28:23,560
Again and again we see portraits, statues
or life-size wax figures of the leaders.
388
00:28:23,720 --> 00:28:27,160
Ever bow to a statue in a parka?
389
00:28:27,880 --> 00:28:34,200
The visit to the great monument
on Mansu Hill is an absolute highlight.
390
00:28:34,560 --> 00:28:40,080
More precisely, these two bronze statues
are over 20 meters high.
391
00:28:41,080 --> 00:28:44,560
Of course, all visits are based
on a strict principle.
392
00:28:45,040 --> 00:28:48,520
Obligatory is the deep bow.
393
00:28:48,720 --> 00:28:51,440
We save ourselves the trouble
of questioning it
394
00:28:51,560 --> 00:28:54,280
and go along with everything
that is asked from us.
395
00:28:54,440 --> 00:28:58,400
We don't want to be
watched more closely.
396
00:28:58,680 --> 00:29:02,520
It is highly illegal to film
against the knowledge of the guides.
397
00:29:03,400 --> 00:29:06,280
-Don't point with your finger!
-Okay.
398
00:29:12,760 --> 00:29:16,280
Gregor, please put the flowers there
and then come back to us
399
00:29:16,360 --> 00:29:19,320
-to show our respect to the leader.
-Okay.
400
00:29:28,560 --> 00:29:33,600
You also put down a bunch of flowers
each time, in addition to the bow.
401
00:29:33,800 --> 00:29:36,280
Often pink or red orchids.
402
00:29:37,400 --> 00:29:43,720
Later we can see how the plastic-flowers
are brought back to the market for resale.
403
00:29:57,200 --> 00:29:59,600
Next they show us the Kim Il Sung Place.
404
00:29:59,680 --> 00:30:02,080
It serves as a parade square.
405
00:30:02,280 --> 00:30:07,160
With 75.000 square meters
it's an incredibly large, open space,
406
00:30:07,240 --> 00:30:09,200
right in the middle of the city.
407
00:30:09,920 --> 00:30:13,880
On the ground we find
many small white dots and numbers.
408
00:30:14,080 --> 00:30:18,560
They serve as orientation
for participants of mass events.
409
00:30:26,520 --> 00:30:29,480
If you look over the Taedong River,
you will see a tower:
410
00:30:29,680 --> 00:30:32,320
The Monument of the Juche Ideology.
411
00:30:33,440 --> 00:30:38,680
The 170 meter high tower was built
to commemorate the merits of Kim Il Sung.
412
00:30:39,520 --> 00:30:43,440
Who founded the Juche ideology
in the fifties.
413
00:30:43,720 --> 00:30:47,280
By now, Juche is a kind of religion
in North Korea,
414
00:30:47,360 --> 00:30:51,000
and the deceased rulers
are worshiped like saints.
415
00:30:54,360 --> 00:30:59,320
It is firmly anchored
in the North Korean system
416
00:30:59,400 --> 00:31:04,360
and thus also eponymous
for the Juche calendar.
417
00:31:04,480 --> 00:31:09,080
Whose numbered years begin
with the year of the birth of Kim Il Sung.
418
00:31:11,160 --> 00:31:13,560
Which god do you believe in?
419
00:31:13,680 --> 00:31:15,280
-In myself.
-Religion I mean.
420
00:31:15,360 --> 00:31:16,800
-In myself.
-Yes.
421
00:31:17,160 --> 00:31:17,960
In myself.
422
00:31:19,160 --> 00:31:21,000
-So you do not believe in any god?
-No.
423
00:31:21,080 --> 00:31:22,560
And about you?
424
00:31:22,640 --> 00:31:23,920
I am actually a Christian.
425
00:31:24,000 --> 00:31:27,440
But probably not the best Christian
out there.
426
00:31:27,600 --> 00:31:34,360
Most foreigners believe in Christianity,
Buddhism, Islam, various kinds...
427
00:31:34,480 --> 00:31:36,640
In our country
we believe in the Juche idea.
428
00:31:36,720 --> 00:31:37,680
Okay.
429
00:31:37,760 --> 00:31:40,720
In our country the Juche idea
is a sort of religion.
430
00:31:40,800 --> 00:31:43,880
But really, it's not our religion,
it is our man!
431
00:31:43,960 --> 00:31:45,200
We believe in man.
432
00:31:45,400 --> 00:31:49,200
-Have you read some of them?
-Many of them.
433
00:31:49,760 --> 00:31:53,120
During the university we study that
as a subject.
434
00:31:53,240 --> 00:31:54,840
-As a subject.
-Okay.
435
00:31:54,920 --> 00:31:57,040
Okay, so what does it say here?
436
00:31:57,480 --> 00:32:00,920
âOur socialist is the one, that...
437
00:32:02,520 --> 00:32:05,920
that initiate the Juche idea.â
438
00:32:06,040 --> 00:32:12,360
Our socialist means our own socialism.
It is man-centered socialism.
439
00:32:12,440 --> 00:32:16,760
It is the Juche idea:
man is the owner of everything.
440
00:32:17,120 --> 00:32:20,240
The man decides everything,
This is the Juche idea.
441
00:32:23,440 --> 00:32:25,120
You can't ask that!
442
00:32:25,480 --> 00:32:27,640
All Korean people love him.
443
00:32:28,200 --> 00:32:29,600
Maybe if you ask that
444
00:32:29,680 --> 00:32:32,240
to another person they will get angry!
445
00:32:32,520 --> 00:32:33,840
-Don't ask that!
-Okay!
446
00:32:33,920 --> 00:32:36,680
So is he the most
intelligent man in the world?
447
00:32:36,760 --> 00:32:38,520
-Yes. We think that.
-Okay.
448
00:32:38,960 --> 00:32:42,880
-So these are all books he wrote?
-Yes, everything he wrote.
449
00:32:46,040 --> 00:32:47,520
It's a lot of books.
450
00:32:47,840 --> 00:32:49,560
How many books did he write?
451
00:32:50,160 --> 00:32:53,240
Maybe here that number is shown?
No there is no number...
452
00:32:53,400 --> 00:32:56,160
Too many, many, many.
I can't remember.
453
00:32:56,600 --> 00:32:59,320
We have a similar history.
Your country and our country.
454
00:32:59,400 --> 00:33:01,440
Our country, it's very difficult
455
00:33:01,800 --> 00:33:06,680
Because of several issues between
North Korea and South Korea...
456
00:33:06,760 --> 00:33:08,240
What issues? What do you mean?
457
00:33:08,320 --> 00:33:13,240
I don't know, it's sort of politics.
I'm not interested in politics.
458
00:33:13,320 --> 00:33:15,440
The economy with the ideal.
459
00:33:15,520 --> 00:33:17,280
-The ideal is very different.
-Yes.
460
00:33:17,800 --> 00:33:20,560
-South Korean is capitalist.
-Yes.
461
00:33:20,640 --> 00:33:22,240
They are only think of money.
462
00:33:22,320 --> 00:33:24,240
But in our country it's no capitalism,
it's socialism.
463
00:33:24,320 --> 00:33:27,520
We only think of our man.
Our leader, our party.
464
00:33:27,640 --> 00:33:30,960
They don't care who is president.
They don't care at all.
465
00:33:31,040 --> 00:33:34,320
They only think about money.
So the ideal is very different
466
00:33:34,400 --> 00:33:37,400
and the economy is also different.
467
00:33:37,520 --> 00:33:43,920
They maybe have developed
the economy in South Korea
468
00:33:44,080 --> 00:33:47,280
and their living standard
is much higher than ours.
469
00:33:48,560 --> 00:33:51,400
-You think so, it's higher?
-Yes, I think so.
470
00:33:51,520 --> 00:33:53,800
-How do you know?
-I think...
471
00:33:53,960 --> 00:33:55,720
We've learned, we've learned. But...
472
00:33:55,880 --> 00:34:00,160
in the past times, we've learned
that South Korea is rather
473
00:34:00,240 --> 00:34:02,600
poor and not developed.
474
00:34:02,680 --> 00:34:06,880
But after maybe ten years later,
they developed much
475
00:34:06,960 --> 00:34:11,440
and what TV news and some foreigners said
that South Korea is rather developed,
476
00:34:11,520 --> 00:34:12,440
regarding Economy.
477
00:34:12,520 --> 00:34:16,440
But they depend on
other countries economies,
478
00:34:16,520 --> 00:34:19,000
especially the US economy.
479
00:34:19,080 --> 00:34:22,120
But our country
has a self reliance economy.
480
00:34:22,200 --> 00:34:23,760
Developed by ourselves.
481
00:34:23,840 --> 00:34:25,280
Our goods are not good.
482
00:34:25,360 --> 00:34:26,960
Sometimes it's rather rough,
483
00:34:27,040 --> 00:34:31,720
but we love ours,
because it was made by ourself.
484
00:34:31,800 --> 00:34:33,120
But they don't have that.
485
00:34:33,240 --> 00:34:36,040
So for example the US,
486
00:34:36,120 --> 00:34:41,160
they cut the line of the national economy,
but they can't develop themselves.
487
00:34:41,320 --> 00:34:42,200
Okay.
488
00:34:42,320 --> 00:34:43,760
So we're proud of us!
489
00:34:49,880 --> 00:34:52,040
-Thank you for your cooperation.
-Thank you very much.
490
00:34:52,120 --> 00:34:53,400
Thanks for all the informations.
491
00:34:53,480 --> 00:34:56,400
Thank you.
Sorry for my poor english.
492
00:34:56,880 --> 00:34:58,360
-Your english is great.
-Thank you.
493
00:34:58,440 --> 00:34:59,720
-No, seriously.
-Bye.
494
00:35:03,240 --> 00:35:06,720
After a few days we notice
how the constant propaganda
495
00:35:06,880 --> 00:35:09,320
does not pass over us
without leaving a mark.
496
00:35:10,560 --> 00:35:12,760
The strict program of discussions,
497
00:35:12,840 --> 00:35:16,040
information and impressions
being presented
498
00:35:16,120 --> 00:35:17,760
leaves us hardly time to think.
499
00:35:19,800 --> 00:35:23,640
Our next destination is
the cemetery of the Revolutionary Heroes.
500
00:35:23,800 --> 00:35:27,160
In the cemetery,
famous personalities are paid honor to.
501
00:35:28,640 --> 00:35:32,400
For example, here is the tomb
of Kim Il Song's first wife
502
00:35:32,480 --> 00:35:34,040
and Kim Jong Il's mother:
503
00:35:34,160 --> 00:35:35,520
Kim Jong Suk.
504
00:35:39,440 --> 00:35:41,720
-What are we supposed to do?
-Buying flowers.
505
00:35:41,840 --> 00:35:43,080
Okay. And then?
506
00:35:43,160 --> 00:35:46,000
Placing them up on the tomb
of the unknown soldier.
507
00:35:46,080 --> 00:35:46,880
Okay.
508
00:35:49,320 --> 00:35:51,120
Thank you! Gamsahamnida!
509
00:35:52,040 --> 00:35:53,600
Gamsihammdamm.
510
00:35:54,040 --> 00:35:55,960
Gamsaham... Gamsa-hamdi-am.
511
00:35:56,120 --> 00:35:58,000
I have it now too:
Gamsahamnidam.
512
00:35:58,080 --> 00:35:59,080
Gamsahamnida.
513
00:35:59,160 --> 00:36:00,400
Gamsahamnida.
514
00:36:00,480 --> 00:36:02,880
I thought there was an ânâ at the end?
Right?
515
00:36:03,000 --> 00:36:03,960
Gamsahamnida.
516
00:36:10,760 --> 00:36:16,080
So you place two larger bouquets there
and one at the top.
517
00:36:17,000 --> 00:36:20,240
Then after you've set the flowers down,
518
00:36:20,720 --> 00:36:25,600
then we have a mourning minute.
519
00:36:26,760 --> 00:36:31,040
But not a minute
just a few seconds.
520
00:36:31,400 --> 00:36:36,080
-So please, this and this...
-On the upper staircase, right?
521
00:36:36,160 --> 00:36:37,280
-Yes.
-Okay.
522
00:36:37,440 --> 00:36:39,360
-And then come back here.
-Yes.
523
00:36:43,000 --> 00:36:48,760
Many of the people buried here
are war heroes who were martyred.
524
00:36:51,080 --> 00:36:55,400
Back then Korea
was a Japanese colony and...
525
00:36:56,120 --> 00:37:03,080
this man was betrayed by a Korean traitor
and was arrested.
526
00:37:03,600 --> 00:37:07,000
He died in prison,
527
00:37:07,080 --> 00:37:13,080
because he bit off his own tongue
instead of talking.
528
00:37:13,400 --> 00:37:19,160
But the Japanese
did not try to save his life.
529
00:37:19,320 --> 00:37:24,680
So he bled to death.
530
00:37:28,320 --> 00:37:29,120
Courageous.
531
00:37:29,880 --> 00:37:34,400
Also this time there is no time
to delve into with the many stories.
532
00:37:35,000 --> 00:37:37,480
Our next stop though,
533
00:37:37,560 --> 00:37:41,440
is one of the most exciting stops
of the entire journey.
534
00:38:48,400 --> 00:38:52,360
The rush is great.
The excitement can be felt everywhere.
535
00:38:52,640 --> 00:38:55,480
A North Korean is â
visibly against his will
536
00:38:55,560 --> 00:38:57,200
led away by two soldiers.
537
00:38:57,440 --> 00:38:59,760
But no time to go into it further.
538
00:39:00,000 --> 00:39:01,240
It's on.
539
00:39:09,160 --> 00:39:10,560
ARIRANG!
540
00:39:10,720 --> 00:39:16,640
A more impressive artistic display
I have never seen before or since.
541
00:39:22,360 --> 00:39:27,040
More than 100.000 persons take part
in this dance and gymnastics show.
542
00:39:27,680 --> 00:39:32,920
The background is like a mosaic â
543
00:39:33,520 --> 00:39:36,480
thousands of children hold up
colorful cardboard cards
544
00:39:36,560 --> 00:39:39,520
and turn them over
with lightning precision
545
00:39:39,600 --> 00:39:42,320
to form various pictures.
546
00:40:02,200 --> 00:40:06,320
The Arirang Festival takes place
in the First of May Stadium.
547
00:40:06,720 --> 00:40:10,520
With 114.000 seats,
548
00:40:10,960 --> 00:40:14,480
it is the largest stadium in the world.
549
00:41:31,680 --> 00:41:36,680
Arirang is one of the most
incredible events I have ever seen!
550
00:41:37,280 --> 00:41:41,120
How is it possible that everyone
participates in such an act?
551
00:41:41,680 --> 00:41:44,880
We ask our guides
where to begin in North Korea
552
00:41:44,960 --> 00:41:47,840
to make such events a success?
553
00:41:49,240 --> 00:41:51,200
To answer our question,
554
00:41:51,320 --> 00:41:55,400
they take us to the Pyongyang
Students Palace the the next day.
555
00:42:09,200 --> 00:42:13,160
It is a kind of educational institution.
556
00:42:13,440 --> 00:42:16,520
These can be found
everywhere in North Korea.
557
00:42:16,760 --> 00:42:20,240
The student palace
has space for around 4.000 students
558
00:42:20,320 --> 00:42:22,440
and thus plays not an insignificant role
559
00:42:22,520 --> 00:42:25,920
with children
and young people in North Korea.
560
00:42:41,080 --> 00:42:43,520
We stop by various classrooms
561
00:42:43,600 --> 00:42:46,280
where groups of children
are already expecting us.
562
00:42:47,160 --> 00:42:49,680
Music, sports, dance, handcraft â
563
00:42:49,760 --> 00:42:51,400
The children â
some of whom are still quite young â
564
00:42:51,480 --> 00:42:54,080
amaze with their
impressively advanced skills.
565
00:45:06,400 --> 00:45:09,440
I wonder if I could have achieved
so much perfection at that age?
566
00:45:09,560 --> 00:45:14,760
And what effort would it take to be able
to show this perfection at that age?
567
00:45:16,760 --> 00:45:19,240
At least now I understand a little better
568
00:45:19,360 --> 00:45:22,000
what motivates an individual
569
00:45:22,120 --> 00:45:26,280
to be part of a huge mosaic
for several hours.
570
00:45:48,400 --> 00:45:51,440
Another station is the flower show.
571
00:45:51,560 --> 00:45:55,040
It is located
in the Kim-il-sungi-je-Kim-jong-ilie
572
00:45:55,160 --> 00:45:56,720
exhibition hall.
573
00:45:57,120 --> 00:45:58,240
Yes, exactly.
574
00:45:58,320 --> 00:46:01,800
The Kimilsungia
and Kimjongilia Exhibition Hall.
575
00:46:03,080 --> 00:46:07,040
Prevalent in all the state propaganda
576
00:46:07,120 --> 00:46:09,640
there is an element we find everywhere,
577
00:46:10,040 --> 00:46:15,840
and that is the embodiment of the ruler
578
00:46:15,920 --> 00:46:17,200
in the form of flowers.
579
00:46:17,560 --> 00:46:22,200
These are breeds of botanicals
from outside North Korea,
580
00:46:22,280 --> 00:46:24,520
donated to the people of North Korea.
581
00:46:24,680 --> 00:46:31,640
This becomes an attempt
to embody the ruler
582
00:46:32,280 --> 00:46:38,040
into something that will survive
over many generations,
583
00:46:38,440 --> 00:46:44,560
so that the ruler is omnipresent.
584
00:46:44,680 --> 00:46:47,640
There are flower exhibitions,
with loral competitions:
585
00:46:47,720 --> 00:46:49,800
âWho has the most beautiful Kimilsungia?â
586
00:46:50,400 --> 00:46:53,000
The hall is named after the orchid
âKim Ill Sungiaâ
587
00:46:53,080 --> 00:46:55,720
and the begonia âKim Jong Iliaâ.
588
00:46:55,840 --> 00:46:59,720
The entire hall is filled with flowers
arranged to form picturesque scenes.
589
00:46:59,920 --> 00:47:02,640
These are combined
with photographs of the rulers
590
00:47:02,720 --> 00:47:05,720
or models of missiles and nuclear bombs.
591
00:47:06,440 --> 00:47:08,080
What else?
592
00:47:09,560 --> 00:47:12,320
This exhibition hall
consist of three halls
593
00:47:12,760 --> 00:47:15,360
and this is the central hall.
594
00:47:15,480 --> 00:47:17,520
-Now we go upstairs.
-Okay.
595
00:47:18,360 --> 00:47:19,720
Our master Kim Jong-un
596
00:47:19,800 --> 00:47:23,640
was selected to be
the most famous President in the world.
597
00:47:23,800 --> 00:47:25,920
Okay, I didn't know that.
598
00:47:26,000 --> 00:47:27,400
Who selected him?
599
00:47:27,560 --> 00:47:31,160
-By the people in the United States.
-Okay.
600
00:47:31,560 --> 00:47:32,360
Interesting.
601
00:47:32,480 --> 00:47:33,640
They could not win the war.
602
00:47:33,960 --> 00:47:35,360
Do you know why?
603
00:47:35,520 --> 00:47:36,640
It's because of him.
604
00:47:36,760 --> 00:47:40,680
It's because of his outstanding
strategies and tactics,
605
00:47:40,920 --> 00:47:43,640
and his belief in all our soldiers.
606
00:47:43,800 --> 00:47:46,720
As well as our soldiers,
who paid back to his love,
607
00:47:46,800 --> 00:47:48,400
-with their lives.
-Okay.
608
00:47:48,560 --> 00:47:51,320
-And this one?
-It says celebration.
609
00:47:51,920 --> 00:47:55,160
-And 60th anniversary of the victory.
-Ah okay, nice!
610
00:47:55,840 --> 00:47:59,000
He is the hero and the son of our nation.
611
00:48:00,000 --> 00:48:01,840
-That's it?
-Yes.
612
00:48:02,920 --> 00:48:07,080
And Kim Ill Sungia and Kim Jong-Ilia
won two gold medals.
613
00:48:08,560 --> 00:48:13,920
At the horticulture Exhibition in China
in 2006 and 2011.
614
00:48:14,240 --> 00:48:18,200
And Kim Jong-ill won a lot of gold medals.
615
00:48:18,280 --> 00:48:20,200
-Let me tell you?
-Yes.
616
00:48:20,320 --> 00:48:23,800
Kim Jong-ill won
a special prize and golden medal
617
00:48:23,880 --> 00:48:27,440
in Czechoslovakia,
618
00:48:27,520 --> 00:48:31,040
they hold a international flower show
in 1991.
619
00:48:31,240 --> 00:48:34,000
He won a special prize and golden medal.
620
00:48:34,480 --> 00:48:39,440
In 1999, Kunming in China
621
00:48:39,520 --> 00:48:44,040
they hold the horticulture exhibition
and he won the special price,
622
00:48:44,120 --> 00:48:46,160
-grand medal.
-Okay.
623
00:48:46,360 --> 00:48:50,520
So that religiously worshipped figure
624
00:48:50,680 --> 00:48:53,120
in the form of a flower
625
00:48:53,280 --> 00:48:58,400
can be raised anywhere, on a balcony,
in a factory, in schools.
626
00:48:58,600 --> 00:49:01,200
The people can identify with it.
627
00:49:01,400 --> 00:49:04,920
On the other side,
this flower
628
00:49:05,000 --> 00:49:07,360
is not only as physical flower,
629
00:49:07,440 --> 00:49:11,840
it also works on posters
630
00:49:12,080 --> 00:49:13,920
or other forms of propaganda elements,
631
00:49:14,000 --> 00:49:16,000
which are also present
everywhere in the society.
632
00:49:19,440 --> 00:49:21,600
One of the last destinations
on our journey
633
00:49:21,680 --> 00:49:24,440
is the Great Study Hall of the People.
634
00:49:25,040 --> 00:49:27,040
It is referred as
âThe Learning Centerâ.
635
00:49:27,440 --> 00:49:30,920
We are told that everyone can come here
in their free time.
636
00:49:31,520 --> 00:49:33,680
The system is probably comparable
637
00:49:33,760 --> 00:49:36,360
to those of the german adult
education centers.
638
00:49:36,840 --> 00:49:41,440
According to North Korean media,
it houses over thirty million books.
639
00:49:41,640 --> 00:49:45,880
Including a variety of writings
and music from abroad.
640
00:49:46,680 --> 00:49:50,360
We are invited to take part
in a German class.
641
00:49:50,680 --> 00:49:53,080
In this class there are many lectures.
642
00:49:53,200 --> 00:49:56,960
-For example, we have a german class too.
-Okay.
643
00:49:57,760 --> 00:50:00,360
The german class students
study german, now.
644
00:50:00,880 --> 00:50:02,560
-I will show you.
-That would be great.
645
00:50:02,640 --> 00:50:04,440
Maybe we can even talk to them.
646
00:50:05,680 --> 00:50:07,400
-German lecture.
-Okay.
647
00:50:09,600 --> 00:50:10,600
Good Morning.
648
00:50:13,640 --> 00:50:16,440
Can we join you?
649
00:50:18,400 --> 00:50:19,760
Sure, we are just taking a break.
650
00:50:20,200 --> 00:50:21,120
Please.
651
00:50:23,680 --> 00:50:25,120
-Please have a seat.
-Okay.
652
00:50:25,440 --> 00:50:27,520
I am Philipp and this is Gregor.
653
00:50:28,320 --> 00:50:29,880
Sarang hae yo.
654
00:50:33,760 --> 00:50:35,240
I love you.
655
00:50:38,640 --> 00:50:42,480
He said, he would like to learn more
about the âHofbräuhausâ.
656
00:50:43,000 --> 00:50:44,920
Then he's not the right person to ask.
657
00:50:45,640 --> 00:50:46,680
He comes from Munich!
658
00:50:46,760 --> 00:50:51,560
That's the Royal Court Brewery in Munich,
in the centre of city.
659
00:50:51,720 --> 00:50:55,640
It's a gigantic hall,
a really big hall,
660
00:50:55,840 --> 00:50:57,960
with long tables, like the one here.
661
00:50:58,280 --> 00:51:01,560
There people sit and drink beer
and listen to music.
662
00:51:01,880 --> 00:51:04,800
They have big glasses â
have you seen pictures?
663
00:51:05,280 --> 00:51:08,800
-Oh yeah!
-Yeah, big glasses. One liter.
664
00:51:10,480 --> 00:51:12,480
It hurts your hand to lift it.
665
00:51:13,280 --> 00:51:15,680
Men are only allowed
to hold it with one hand.
666
00:51:15,760 --> 00:51:18,440
I understand most of it.
667
00:51:18,520 --> 00:51:21,840
-But one question...
-Yes?
668
00:51:23,040 --> 00:51:25,240
What is âKu'dammâ?
669
00:51:25,320 --> 00:51:28,440
That is the short form, a slang
670
00:51:29,000 --> 00:51:32,200
for the word âKurfürstendammâ.
671
00:51:39,160 --> 00:51:40,920
-I'll write it down for you, alright?
-Yes.
672
00:51:41,160 --> 00:51:42,160
Just right here? Okay...
673
00:51:42,960 --> 00:51:44,120
It's written...
674
00:51:45,400 --> 00:51:49,320
That is the biggest street in Berlin,
where you can go shopping.
675
00:51:49,400 --> 00:51:51,680
-Yes, shopping mile.
-Exactly.
676
00:51:51,840 --> 00:51:54,440
The short form is âKu'dammâ.
677
00:51:55,520 --> 00:51:59,920
When can I come to Berlin?
678
00:52:01,240 --> 00:52:02,440
I hope soon.
679
00:52:02,920 --> 00:52:04,520
I hope very, very soon, sure.
680
00:52:04,600 --> 00:52:06,560
-I hope to see you soon.
-Exactly.
681
00:52:06,760 --> 00:52:09,680
I hope to see you soon again. Exactly.
682
00:52:10,680 --> 00:52:12,680
-Do you have a family?
-Yes.
683
00:52:12,960 --> 00:52:16,680
-How many people are in your family?
-I have an older sister,
684
00:52:16,920 --> 00:52:19,400
a mother, a father
685
00:52:19,840 --> 00:52:22,640
and also still one grandmother.
686
00:52:23,200 --> 00:52:25,880
So to live with your grandmother,
parents and children,
687
00:52:26,040 --> 00:52:28,040
how does that work?
688
00:52:29,200 --> 00:52:31,440
Actually pretty good!
689
00:52:32,640 --> 00:52:35,680
You guys speak very well
for taken German only for six months.
690
00:52:35,800 --> 00:52:39,680
When I think about learning Korean
for only six months...
691
00:52:41,400 --> 00:52:42,960
I could speak six words!
692
00:52:43,520 --> 00:52:45,320
Good bye. Thank you very much.
693
00:52:45,760 --> 00:52:46,880
-Bye.
-Bye.
694
00:52:47,600 --> 00:52:49,880
Thanks. Take care.
695
00:52:50,480 --> 00:52:52,120
-Bye.
-Bye.
696
00:52:52,360 --> 00:52:54,920
-I hope we see each other again!
-I hope so too.
697
00:52:55,040 --> 00:52:57,480
Here, in Berlin or anywhere in Germany.
698
00:52:58,240 --> 00:52:59,200
Bye.
699
00:52:59,520 --> 00:53:00,520
Bye.
700
00:53:02,880 --> 00:53:06,600
In moments like these,
I'm not sure what to think.
701
00:53:07,040 --> 00:53:10,760
I mean, does he really think
we'll see each other again?
702
00:53:11,120 --> 00:53:13,840
If so, how does he imagine
it happening?
703
00:53:15,000 --> 00:53:17,760
Somehow the situation makes me sad.
704
00:53:31,400 --> 00:53:32,120
Well...
705
00:53:32,200 --> 00:53:36,480
The large study hall of the people
is the last stop on our journey.
706
00:53:37,560 --> 00:53:40,240
Afterwards we are off to the airport.
707
00:53:42,280 --> 00:53:44,600
We quickly realized that it's difficult
708
00:53:44,680 --> 00:53:47,480
to get an objective picture
of the country.
709
00:53:47,880 --> 00:53:50,800
Instead, we see a country
of staged superlatives.
710
00:53:52,360 --> 00:53:55,920
We asked a lot of questions
but listened much more often.
711
00:53:56,160 --> 00:53:59,520
We were seldom able to choose the topics.
712
00:54:00,880 --> 00:54:04,560
Probably the reason that we arrived
with many questions,
713
00:54:04,800 --> 00:54:07,960
but we flew home with many of them
unanswered though.
714
00:54:10,200 --> 00:54:13,360
Of course, our experience
is only scratching the surface
715
00:54:13,480 --> 00:54:15,720
of what the North Korean people
are experiencing.
716
00:54:17,440 --> 00:54:20,440
Nevertheless,
I came one step closer to an answer.
717
00:54:21,360 --> 00:54:27,000
I developed a sense of what it means
to live in a totalitarian state.
718
00:54:27,560 --> 00:54:32,160
The feeling, when you cannot freely
express your opinion
719
00:54:32,400 --> 00:54:36,800
and instead play along for fear
of the enormous consequences.
720
00:54:37,800 --> 00:54:39,800
For my part, I'm relieved
721
00:54:40,160 --> 00:54:43,480
when I'm on the plane and I know
that my constant filming
722
00:54:43,560 --> 00:54:45,720
can no longer bring consequences.
723
00:54:47,080 --> 00:54:50,040
What remains
is a journey full of contrasts.
724
00:54:50,880 --> 00:54:56,320
The impressions are deep and won't let me
go throughout the following week.
725
00:54:57,440 --> 00:54:59,040
It was an exciting journey.
726
00:54:59,920 --> 00:55:01,680
Nevertheless, I assumed that,
727
00:55:01,760 --> 00:55:05,720
I will not travel to North Korea
again anytime soon.
728
00:55:08,800 --> 00:55:09,880
...until I found out,
729
00:55:09,960 --> 00:55:12,960
you can run a Marathon in Pyongyang!
730
00:55:19,320 --> 00:55:25,400
After all, I just run to Las Vegas
through the desert all the way from LA.
731
00:55:25,480 --> 00:55:27,080
Running is my thing.
732
00:55:27,320 --> 00:55:30,480
So why not run a Marathon in Pyongyang?
733
00:55:30,880 --> 00:55:34,880
It's the only way to walk through town
without the accompaniment of a guide!
734
00:55:38,480 --> 00:55:40,960
Also this year our entry is endangered.
735
00:55:41,160 --> 00:55:43,640
This time,
through the escalating conflict
736
00:55:43,760 --> 00:55:46,360
between North Korea and the United States.
737
00:55:46,800 --> 00:55:50,280
The last news we caught before we left
738
00:55:50,400 --> 00:55:53,280
was marked by aggressive posturing
by both powers
739
00:55:53,840 --> 00:55:56,120
So we let ourselves register
with the crisis provision list
740
00:55:56,200 --> 00:55:58,200
of the Federal Foreign Office.
741
00:55:58,960 --> 00:56:00,200
Together with four friends,
742
00:56:00,280 --> 00:56:04,760
we left from Vladivostok to Pyongyang
on the 7th of April, 2017.
743
00:56:10,240 --> 00:56:13,920
We're finally about to board the flight
744
00:56:14,040 --> 00:56:16,800
to Pyongyang, North Korea.
745
00:56:16,880 --> 00:56:18,360
The tension mounts.
746
00:56:19,760 --> 00:56:23,240
We are told that the airline
has only four planes.
747
00:56:23,760 --> 00:56:27,440
Probably the reason
for our nine-hour delay.
748
00:56:27,720 --> 00:56:31,920
It's now 8pm,
we are waiting on our plane
749
00:56:32,000 --> 00:56:33,480
which is right over there.
750
00:56:33,760 --> 00:56:37,520
We'll hopefully land in Pyongyang
in one and a half hours.
751
00:56:37,640 --> 00:56:43,000
It's two nights before the
start of the Marathon,
752
00:56:43,480 --> 00:56:46,000
which is the most important night for me.
753
00:56:46,080 --> 00:56:49,640
Now we're trying to shake off the jet lag
from the flight to Vladivostok,
754
00:56:49,720 --> 00:56:54,000
a time difference of eight hours.
755
00:56:54,320 --> 00:56:55,640
But all good.
756
00:57:08,840 --> 00:57:12,800
The state airline of North Korea
is called Air Koryo.
757
00:57:13,160 --> 00:57:15,000
With the exception of two airplanes,
758
00:57:15,080 --> 00:57:19,080
operation in the European Union
is prohibited for safety reasons.
759
00:57:19,840 --> 00:57:22,520
From the look of the plane
we fly to Pyongyang â
760
00:57:22,600 --> 00:57:24,120
I can see why.
761
00:57:25,360 --> 00:57:29,080
I've only known such aircraft
from museums.
762
00:57:29,520 --> 00:57:33,960
The interior seems to be
the original from 1960s.
763
00:57:49,120 --> 00:57:53,720
Upon our arrival, we get to know
our two guardians for the coming week.
764
00:57:54,240 --> 00:57:56,560
This is the second time
for you in our country?
765
00:57:56,840 --> 00:58:00,600
We have been here for the 60 years
celebration of the Korean wars.
766
00:58:01,120 --> 00:58:02,480
We really liked it.
767
00:58:06,200 --> 00:58:10,480
Since our visit in 2013,
a lot has changed.
768
00:58:10,840 --> 00:58:12,400
New residential areas have emerged
769
00:58:12,600 --> 00:58:15,440
and Pyongyang is no longer
completely in the dark.
770
00:58:15,920 --> 00:58:19,080
At least not on the days
for the marathon.
771
00:58:19,960 --> 00:58:23,040
That's a new skyscraper there, right?
Wow! It's huge.
772
00:58:23,120 --> 00:58:25,000
The one with the lights in the back?
773
00:58:30,840 --> 00:58:32,040
Very beautiful.
774
00:58:36,840 --> 00:58:39,240
Back to the Koryo Hotel...
775
00:58:39,720 --> 00:58:43,800
Like on our first trip,
the modalities will be discussed first.
776
00:58:50,360 --> 00:58:53,160
Why don't we sit down
and talk about the program?
777
00:58:53,240 --> 00:58:54,600
Yes, you are right.
778
00:58:54,800 --> 00:58:56,960
Full marathon runners will start
779
00:58:57,040 --> 00:59:03,320
and after five minutes half marathon
and ten kilometers runners will start.
780
00:59:03,600 --> 00:59:07,920
And what time are we going to leave
the hotel on sunday morning?
781
00:59:08,080 --> 00:59:12,120
Sunday morning we leave at 6:40 am.
782
00:59:12,880 --> 00:59:15,240
And then we go
to the statues of the leaders
783
00:59:15,320 --> 00:59:17,720
to show your respect to our leaders.
784
00:59:17,800 --> 00:59:20,160
-The bronze statues we saw?
-Yes, the bronze statues.
785
00:59:20,480 --> 00:59:22,560
And the we'll go to the Kim Il Sung Square
786
00:59:22,640 --> 00:59:26,320
where the military parades
and mass dancing takes place.
787
00:59:27,040 --> 00:59:30,680
Do you have a wheelchair for me
for sunday to do this after the marathon?
788
00:59:31,160 --> 00:59:33,720
-That's right in the afternoon.
-That's why I'm asking.
789
00:59:33,960 --> 00:59:36,440
-Which floor do we stay? Seventh?
-Third, no?
790
00:59:36,920 --> 00:59:39,560
-What is our floor?
-Thirty-three!
791
00:59:41,080 --> 00:59:43,000
-33rd floor.
-33rd floor?
792
00:59:43,080 --> 00:59:46,960
Building number 2.
33rd floor and I think room number was 27.
793
00:59:47,040 --> 00:59:49,240
I think we stayed here last time.
794
00:59:52,200 --> 00:59:54,040
Really? Good memory!
795
00:59:54,120 --> 00:59:55,240
I think so.
796
00:59:55,840 --> 00:59:57,200
-It could be.
-Yeah, it could be.
797
00:59:57,800 --> 00:59:59,720
-Good night!
-Good night!
798
00:59:59,800 --> 01:00:00,880
Good night.
799
01:00:02,120 --> 01:00:04,320
Afterwards, as it was four years ago,
800
01:00:04,400 --> 01:00:08,720
it's back to the thirty-third floor â
and back to the exact same room.
801
01:00:09,120 --> 01:00:10,800
I cannot get rid of the feeling
802
01:00:10,880 --> 01:00:13,960
that there are no such coincidences
in North Korea.
803
01:00:15,120 --> 01:00:17,000
During our first night in the hotel,
804
01:00:17,200 --> 01:00:20,960
I realize that I am rapidly getting sick.
805
01:00:22,040 --> 01:00:26,440
Something I ate in the last 24 hours
appears not to be agreeing with me.
806
01:00:28,360 --> 01:00:30,520
Nevertheless,
I visit together with the others
807
01:00:30,600 --> 01:00:32,320
the Pyongyang subway system.
808
01:00:32,520 --> 01:00:36,200
The deepest mass transit network
in the world.
809
01:00:47,520 --> 01:00:51,400
In Pyongyang a subway ride
is a highlight for every Berliner.
810
01:00:51,840 --> 01:00:53,160
At the end of the 1990s,
811
01:00:53,240 --> 01:00:56,480
several trains from the Berlin underground
were sold to North Korea
812
01:00:56,640 --> 01:00:59,000
and are still in use today.
813
01:01:15,680 --> 01:01:18,800
Already on the escalator
one notices a pleasant difference
814
01:01:18,880 --> 01:01:20,800
a pleasant difference
to our train stations at home:
815
01:01:21,360 --> 01:01:24,680
The total lack of advertising.
Nothing screaming for you to buy.
816
01:01:24,760 --> 01:01:26,720
Wherever advertising posters
would normally hang,
817
01:01:26,840 --> 01:01:30,360
instead there are elaborately designed
mosaics on the walls.
818
01:01:30,640 --> 01:01:34,360
But the colorful motifs
are rich in propaganda.
819
01:01:53,440 --> 01:01:56,840
In addition to the portraits
of Kim Il Sung and his son Kim Jong Il,
820
01:01:56,960 --> 01:01:59,160
everything inside
is just as it used to be.
821
01:01:59,960 --> 01:02:02,080
Even the scratch marks
of Berlin graffiti artists
822
01:02:02,160 --> 01:02:04,240
can still be found on the windowpanes.
823
01:02:04,960 --> 01:02:07,600
The route network,
created at the end of the 1960's,
824
01:02:07,680 --> 01:02:09,760
is supposed to have around 30 stations.
825
01:02:10,400 --> 01:02:14,440
These in turn should in part be provided
with integrated escape tunnels.
826
01:02:15,200 --> 01:02:17,480
We do not notice any evidence of this.
827
01:02:53,680 --> 01:02:58,320
During our visit to the subway,
my health is rapidly declining.
828
01:02:59,280 --> 01:03:02,800
On the escalator
I hit rock bottom for the first time.
829
01:03:03,160 --> 01:03:05,520
I need to go immediately
back to the hotel.
830
01:03:08,320 --> 01:03:10,960
Unfortunately I woke up this morning
831
01:03:11,040 --> 01:03:17,160
and after breakfast
I began having massive stomach problems.
832
01:03:17,640 --> 01:03:23,360
It started when we visited the subway,
when I couldn't hold it back anymore.
833
01:03:23,840 --> 01:03:29,000
It's some kind of stomach flu,
virus or whatever.
834
01:03:29,880 --> 01:03:34,560
The problem is, I'm supposed
to run a Marathon tomorrow.
835
01:03:34,680 --> 01:03:37,720
I'll wait until tomorrow morning,
it can't really go on like this.
836
01:03:37,800 --> 01:03:40,440
Hopefully I will get better overnight.
837
01:03:50,080 --> 01:03:52,920
It is the 12th April 2017
838
01:03:53,000 --> 01:03:55,440
and the 4th Marathon in Pyongyang
839
01:03:55,520 --> 01:03:57,880
where foreigners
are allowed to participate.
840
01:03:58,080 --> 01:04:00,120
This year it is a special marathon.
841
01:04:00,840 --> 01:04:04,040
Instead of the previous
four times ten-kilometer rounds
842
01:04:04,120 --> 01:04:05,640
around the Kim-Il Sung Stadium.
843
01:04:05,720 --> 01:04:08,400
It is now for the first time
across the city
844
01:04:08,520 --> 01:04:10,960
and at kilometer 21 back again.
845
01:04:11,200 --> 01:04:13,280
Due to my state of health,
846
01:04:13,480 --> 01:04:18,240
my stomach is empty
and my fluids are anything but topped up.
847
01:04:30,480 --> 01:04:32,360
I've felt better before...
848
01:04:32,440 --> 01:04:36,800
But I'll try my luck,
maybe I'll make it,
849
01:04:36,920 --> 01:04:39,040
or at least run a half Marathon.
850
01:04:44,680 --> 01:04:47,160
Similar to what is permitted
at special locations,
851
01:04:47,440 --> 01:04:51,080
filming is now also allowed
at certain events.
852
01:04:51,600 --> 01:04:54,960
In general however,
the rule has not eased.
853
01:04:55,440 --> 01:04:58,720
This year the prohibition of taking photos
out of the moving bus
854
01:04:58,880 --> 01:05:00,640
is even more controlled.
855
01:05:01,120 --> 01:05:04,480
I enter the Kim Il Sung Stadium
for the first time.
856
01:05:04,560 --> 01:05:08,800
40.000 people are there to watch
and cheer on the athletes.
857
01:05:27,080 --> 01:05:29,520
It's time. Yesterday at this time
858
01:05:29,600 --> 01:05:32,200
I was laid out in the bathroom.
859
01:05:32,720 --> 01:05:34,760
Today after three bananas
860
01:05:34,840 --> 01:05:36,320
and a little toast,
861
01:05:36,400 --> 01:05:38,240
I'm ready to give it a try.
862
01:05:38,400 --> 01:05:40,120
Let's see how far I get.
863
01:06:24,720 --> 01:06:28,080
From the stadium,
the route goes past the victory arch.
864
01:06:28,400 --> 01:06:31,480
The people on the roadside
cheer for the runners.
865
01:06:31,760 --> 01:06:35,680
I can only guess who was ordered
as a spectator to the roadside
866
01:06:35,760 --> 01:06:37,560
and who is here voluntarily.
867
01:06:37,680 --> 01:06:41,320
All that matters to me right now
is that I feel supported.
868
01:06:42,320 --> 01:06:44,480
In North Korea
very many things are staged,
869
01:06:44,920 --> 01:06:47,760
you notice this from time to time
as a visitor.
870
01:06:48,640 --> 01:06:51,560
Interesting is the question of whether
or not this should be considered wrong,
871
01:06:51,800 --> 01:06:55,160
for the people and also the leaders.
872
01:06:55,240 --> 01:06:58,320
They see their participation
as part of the âtotal packageâ
873
01:06:58,840 --> 01:07:03,640
and want to make sure that the runners
are not running through an empty city,
874
01:07:03,720 --> 01:07:07,080
they want the runners to be seeing
people cheering for them.
875
01:07:07,600 --> 01:07:11,440
We take it as a deception, of course.
876
01:07:11,520 --> 01:07:12,760
I believe in the reality though,
877
01:07:12,840 --> 01:07:15,920
from the point of view
of the North Korean, it's a bit of both.
878
01:07:23,400 --> 01:07:24,640
Kilometer seven.
879
01:07:25,080 --> 01:07:26,280
It's going okay.
880
01:07:34,400 --> 01:07:36,320
Our guardian tells us
881
01:07:36,400 --> 01:07:39,720
that all runners who need more
than four hours
882
01:07:39,840 --> 01:07:42,200
will be picked up by a yellow bus.
883
01:07:43,080 --> 01:07:46,000
Kilometer 16 is behind me...
884
01:07:46,600 --> 01:07:49,160
I'm pretty...
885
01:07:50,080 --> 01:07:52,920
surprised, that I can run at all.
886
01:07:59,280 --> 01:08:00,920
Twelve kilometers to go.
887
01:08:01,600 --> 01:08:02,880
Oh, I'm dead!
888
01:08:12,360 --> 01:08:15,920
From kilometer 30
all water stocks are empty.
889
01:08:16,200 --> 01:08:18,640
As the runners of the ten-kilometer run
890
01:08:18,720 --> 01:08:21,720
and the half-marathon run
the same distance,
891
01:08:21,840 --> 01:08:26,000
is this my last water bottle
that I get for the rest of the track.
892
01:08:30,440 --> 01:08:31,680
Kilometer 41.
893
01:08:33,680 --> 01:08:34,880
I made it.
894
01:08:36,760 --> 01:08:38,880
That was a hard fight.
895
01:08:39,800 --> 01:08:41,280
But anyway...
896
01:08:41,600 --> 01:08:44,280
I don't feel my legs anymore,
it's kilometer 41
897
01:08:44,880 --> 01:08:46,240
I'm almost at the stadium...
898
01:08:47,040 --> 01:08:49,160
and nothing can stop me anymore.
899
01:09:18,400 --> 01:09:20,400
At the finish, it feels like
900
01:09:20,560 --> 01:09:22,600
I'm drying out from the inside.
901
01:09:23,000 --> 01:09:25,840
Even at the finish, there's no water.
902
01:09:28,120 --> 01:09:30,920
I'll pay for that later!
903
01:09:31,520 --> 01:09:35,440
I spend the rest of the trip
in bed with a fever.
904
01:09:42,880 --> 01:09:44,440
You are crazy.
905
01:09:45,240 --> 01:09:48,160
They just don't have any water anymore.
Not here, not on the track.
906
01:09:48,840 --> 01:09:51,440
-They're sadistic.
-We're getting you water right now.
907
01:09:52,120 --> 01:09:54,760
Normally after a Marathon I would relax
908
01:09:55,040 --> 01:09:57,760
and do something good for my body â
909
01:09:58,080 --> 01:09:59,520
especially this time.
910
01:10:00,080 --> 01:10:04,000
But as in 2013, our 2017 trip
911
01:10:04,240 --> 01:10:07,880
is also an overload of information
and sightseeing stops.
912
01:10:08,320 --> 01:10:12,120
-Exhausted?
-Yes, my legs, as you can imagine.
913
01:10:13,320 --> 01:10:15,960
Especially after yesterday,
because usually I would eat a lot
914
01:10:16,040 --> 01:10:18,240
the day before.
But yesterday this was not possible.
915
01:10:18,320 --> 01:10:20,840
So I had to go the the start
without energy.
916
01:10:21,200 --> 01:10:24,000
-So this was really a war.
-Yes.
917
01:10:24,960 --> 01:10:27,280
So instead of driving back to our hotel,
918
01:10:27,360 --> 01:10:29,840
we had already packed our bags
the evening before
919
01:10:29,960 --> 01:10:33,880
to set out on a planned four-hour drive
across the country.
920
01:10:50,520 --> 01:10:52,720
The roads are full of potholes.
921
01:10:53,120 --> 01:10:56,600
During our journey,
we often bump our heads in the bus
922
01:10:56,720 --> 01:10:59,040
or slam against the window while sleeping.
923
01:10:59,120 --> 01:11:01,520
It quickly becomes a running gag
with our guides.
924
01:11:02,320 --> 01:11:08,920
In general, we have great luck
with our guides in 2017 as we did in 2013.
925
01:11:09,280 --> 01:11:12,120
We can talk about lots of things
halfway openly
926
01:11:12,240 --> 01:11:16,160
and have plenty of situations
where we have a lot of fun together.
927
01:11:17,400 --> 01:11:21,360
Our destination is the
Masik-yong Ski Resort,
928
01:11:21,480 --> 01:11:23,200
just off the east coast of North Korea.
929
01:11:24,240 --> 01:11:29,760
Its modern hotel is part
of North Korea's only ski resort.
930
01:11:35,880 --> 01:11:40,000
Now we're going to see the breakfast room
of our bobsled cabin hotel.
931
01:11:44,280 --> 01:11:47,720
The interior design
is inspired by alpine ski huts.
932
01:11:57,680 --> 01:12:03,400
Arriving at the hotel, we notice
that my Marathon medal is dated 2016.
933
01:12:03,480 --> 01:12:05,840
And also with our
two ten-kilometer-runners
934
01:12:06,040 --> 01:12:07,720
they made a mistake:
935
01:12:08,040 --> 01:12:10,760
Although they had reached
the finish together,
936
01:12:10,920 --> 01:12:14,960
they were presented with two completely
different times on their certificates.
937
01:12:28,920 --> 01:12:31,280
In the evening
we go to a restaurant across the street
938
01:12:31,360 --> 01:12:33,400
where we eat Korean barbecue.
939
01:12:34,800 --> 01:12:38,120
After a few bottles of soju
and a really nice dinner,
940
01:12:38,200 --> 01:12:42,800
we ask our guides and hotel staff
if they would sing karaoke for us.
941
01:13:07,520 --> 01:13:11,800
Arirang is the name of a Korean Folk Song.
942
01:13:11,960 --> 01:13:17,320
It's about a young woman
who sings to her lover
943
01:13:17,800 --> 01:13:22,280
and wishes that he will soon come home,
which is actually a very common theme.
944
01:13:22,560 --> 01:13:26,760
But of course the emphasis
is on the sadness of separation
945
01:13:26,840 --> 01:13:29,000
between these two sides.
946
01:13:29,480 --> 01:13:32,920
The concept is used today ,
especially in North Korea,
947
01:13:33,000 --> 01:13:35,600
to underline the situation
on the Korean peninsula.
948
01:13:35,880 --> 01:13:41,280
The Arirang then is used
to build a togetherness
949
01:13:41,440 --> 01:13:44,040
between the two countries
on the basis of nationalism.
950
01:13:44,880 --> 01:13:50,000
Arirang is for North- and South Korea
of great importance.
951
01:13:50,280 --> 01:13:53,400
At the Winter Olympics 2018 in Pyeongchang
952
01:13:53,600 --> 01:13:56,080
both sport-teams
from North-and South Korea
953
01:13:56,160 --> 01:13:57,760
used it at the same anthem.
954
01:13:58,760 --> 01:14:02,400
Not for nothing is one of the largest
South Korean TV stations called
955
01:14:02,480 --> 01:14:03,880
Arirang TV.
956
01:14:03,960 --> 01:14:07,120
Also the Arirang North Korean
Gymnastics Festival,
957
01:14:07,200 --> 01:14:11,200
which we visited in 2013,
named after this song.
958
01:14:25,000 --> 01:14:29,280
Besides the sports offerings
such as the Marathon or the Ski Resort
959
01:14:29,360 --> 01:14:33,920
we are interested in how
North Koreans spend their free time.
960
01:14:34,760 --> 01:14:37,440
According to our guides
961
01:14:37,560 --> 01:14:40,360
the shooting range is prized as
a popular leisure destination.
962
01:14:40,800 --> 01:14:43,720
In contrast to most of the places
we visited,
963
01:14:43,840 --> 01:14:46,960
there is not march music here.
964
01:14:47,400 --> 01:14:50,840
Thankfully, because it's a little bit
exhausting all the time.
965
01:14:51,080 --> 01:14:54,200
Instead parade videos
and speeches with Kim Jong Un.
966
01:14:54,680 --> 01:14:56,160
Even though we don't understand anything
967
01:14:56,240 --> 01:14:59,520
it's at least a bit of a change
to the entertainment program.
968
01:15:09,400 --> 01:15:13,960
The Kwangbok supermarket gives us
an insight into a small percentage
969
01:15:14,040 --> 01:15:16,160
of the North Korean population.
970
01:15:17,440 --> 01:15:22,320
This is one of three supermarkets
selling international products.
971
01:15:22,880 --> 01:15:26,280
Mostly products from Thailand and China.
972
01:15:26,880 --> 01:15:30,640
You can only pay with Won,
the North Korean currency.
973
01:15:31,120 --> 01:15:32,440
Kind of surprising,
974
01:15:32,560 --> 01:15:35,280
because otherwise we pay everywhere
with Euro or Dollar,
975
01:15:35,360 --> 01:15:38,280
not in the North Korean currency won.
976
01:15:51,280 --> 01:15:52,440
In addition to the supermarket,
977
01:15:52,520 --> 01:15:55,880
some other things in the country
seem to have changed too.
978
01:15:56,000 --> 01:15:59,840
Of course,
we can only speak for the exteriors.
979
01:15:59,960 --> 01:16:02,080
For example, in the cityscape:
980
01:16:02,520 --> 01:16:06,800
In 2013, many houses
were gray and covered in mold,
981
01:16:07,280 --> 01:16:11,080
we find these now freshly painted
in peach and turquoise.
982
01:16:17,640 --> 01:16:21,000
The people in Pyongyang are wearing
more and more colorful clothing
983
01:16:21,080 --> 01:16:24,640
and we also see more
international sports brands.
984
01:16:28,440 --> 01:16:31,880
Our larger and varied portions of food
also lead to the impression
985
01:16:31,960 --> 01:16:35,320
that since 2013
a change has taking place.
986
01:16:35,520 --> 01:16:37,400
Even American products
987
01:16:37,480 --> 01:16:40,600
have found their way
onto the North Korean market.
988
01:16:41,560 --> 01:16:44,000
North Korea is a country
that is in no way static,
989
01:16:44,080 --> 01:16:46,840
there seems to be some change,
990
01:16:47,160 --> 01:16:51,600
under Kim Jong Un, much new construction
has taken place.
991
01:16:51,840 --> 01:16:56,000
The number of restaurants in Pyongyang
and elsewhere has risen dramatically,
992
01:16:56,520 --> 01:17:00,120
and we see other businesses
such as car washes,
993
01:17:00,320 --> 01:17:02,000
which did not exist before.
994
01:17:02,080 --> 01:17:04,120
The number of petrol stations has grown,
995
01:17:04,320 --> 01:17:10,680
traffic lights have appeared where before
the traffic police have stood.
996
01:17:10,840 --> 01:17:13,120
Now there are more cars
and also traffic lights.
997
01:17:13,440 --> 01:17:17,480
North Korea has experienced a modest boom
998
01:17:17,600 --> 01:17:20,280
that has mostly concentrated itself
around Pyongyang,
999
01:17:20,360 --> 01:17:23,560
but surely the country that Kim Jong Un
1000
01:17:23,640 --> 01:17:29,000
wants to show is continually
doing better under his leadership.
1001
01:17:34,560 --> 01:17:37,920
Not everything
we saw in North Korea was bad.
1002
01:17:39,120 --> 01:17:42,600
Much was concerning but also beautiful.
1003
01:17:43,520 --> 01:17:46,160
Some things were too good to be true.
1004
01:17:48,000 --> 01:17:49,360
You feel the tension
1005
01:17:49,560 --> 01:17:51,240
and hear the unsaid.
1006
01:17:51,800 --> 01:17:55,400
Sometimes it felt very personal
and intimate.
1007
01:17:57,480 --> 01:18:00,840
Is it because we travelled together
all the time
1008
01:18:01,000 --> 01:18:03,920
or because I just liked my guides
as people
1009
01:18:04,000 --> 01:18:06,840
regardless of a regime or world view?
1010
01:18:07,920 --> 01:18:11,240
I am glad to have captured
my own picture of the country
78206
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