Original subtitles

(wind whirling)

(leaves rattling)

- It's really early in the morning

and it's really cold

and we're doing a two and a half hour bush walk,

his head towards doesn't fit my head.

Oh my God, what was that?

(laughs) I don't even know why I'm nervous.

I don't even think I will surf.

I'm just excited to see it.

(forlorn bluesy music)

(forlorn bluesy music fading)

(cheerful music)

Vee.

(car engine revving) (lighthearted guitar music)

(dog barking) (lighthearted guitar music)

(glasses clinking) Hi guys.

I'll order a strong almond cappuccino.

Thank you.

Sit up Vee, come on Vee.

(lighthearted guitar music)

Oh, that looks fun.

- I remember her, her brother Chris

and then they were just these cheeky little grums

from Narrabeen and I don't think it will ever change.

(lighthearted guitar music)

- I have fun memories of tiny little Laura and Eva

just still little loose stick figure.

(lighthearted guitar music)

- All the other girls were in the watt washing shoes

and one girl trying to get out the back

and then if she did, she weighed 10 kilos

and she's flying along little waves

doing these little turns

and yeah, she was a pretty wild little girl

and then I guess growing doing exactly

what you would be expected then.

- [Man] Junior champion,

won the ISA World Junior Championship in 2008

and the ISP Women's World Junior Championship in 2009.

- She loves taking off from the biggest wave

that comes through

and laughing as she's going over falls.

- [Announcer] Laura Aneva's biggest fans,

her father, Phil and mother, Sarah.

- [Woman] I think she's always wanted to surf big waves

ever since she was really little.

- She's definitely someone

that doesn't like to fight the fun.

She's always having a lot of good times.

- [Announcer] Enter her first ever final

at the Roxy Pro Gold Coast

is all set and ready to go.

- [Man] We always see Chris Aneva,

Laura's brother alongside

doing some serious coaching with her

for the last couple of seasons.

- Laura is just the ball of energy

and kind of like the leader of the pack.

- She chases her dreams.

She's a bit of a go get it girl.

And I think that's why she's such an inspiration

to so many young girls.

- She loves that challenge

and she loves, feeling at the mercy

of whatever the ocean was doing.

- [Announcer] What a dream start for Laura Aneva

kicking off this heat with a perfect 10 point ride.

- She has this enthusiasm and this big personality.

- I guess convict contagious personally.

She so much fun and always wanna be around.

- And so it's so cool to see

that she had such a success

in like a high performance competitive atmosphere.

Competitively, she was on the world championship tour

for seven years.

You don't stay on the world tour if you're not good.

(dramatic music)

- [Announcer] As we check out this first ever

women's WSL big wave event.

(dramatic music)

- Oh, watching Laura at "Jaws" was terrifying.

- I still trip out on her attempt

at that wave at "Jaws",

that was crazy that she had to go

and went over the falls on a 20 foot or at least.

There's not a lot of guys in the world that would do that.

- [Announcer] And looking to lock-in Laura Aneva

tries to sneak out the back at the last minute.

- I've never been so afraid

of seen something happen to such a close friend

because the conditions are gnarly.

That wave is insane and it's huge.

And I know that she didn't have much experience

with, a board of, I don't even know

how big these boards are 12 foot

and the inflatable vest.

And it was just like mind boggling.

- [Announcer] You saw her effort.

Take a look, she was paddling on that wave.

Really got stiff so fast.

It's sucked up underneath Laura.

So it was a very late drop.

You talked about committed.

She was beyond committed, so she tried

to get on the back where you saw her body

get sucked over the falls.

- [Announcer] Laura suffered that knee injury

from absolutely charging at the Fiani challenge.

- [Announcer] Kind of feel for Laura there,

put that big Bryce on the front knee.

She's better than that

and that means definitely giving her trouble.

- [Woman] She's really got to work up that confidence again.

Get back in that competitive head space.

- [Announcer] You see her fall off the top 17

but I think we'll see Laura back pretty soon.

- [Announcer] What about Laura

end of her big wide world champion?

- [Announcer] Unbelievable what a stave would that be?

- And it's only now that her heart's kinda changed

and she's re-directed to following a new passion.

- I'm gonna miss her the tour sucks without Laura Aneva.

Let's be real.

I texted her on the ring.

I'm just like,

"Laura, I miss you come back to the tour" (chuckles).

But she's on her own tour now.

- So I got absolutely smoked issues.

I honestly didn't even think I was going to surf

and that was my first time telling

so maybe a bit reckless on my part

but I sat there and watched the boys all day surfing

and something clicked in me.

I just wanted to give it a try.

I'm glad I did because it made it so clear to me

that if I really wanna surf big waves

and I need to do it right.

And I've got a lot of work to do.

So I'm gonna dedicate my year to exactly that,

and my brother is gonna help me do it.

- Vee, this. - This one feels good.

- Vee wants to go on your boats.

- You have only passed our boats for Vee?

- He does, this one?

- I've got to think of the winter.

Then I say that like so much heavier

than my other boards I was getting last year.

- But you noticed that once you have those boards

with a bit more weight on them

like it's such a difference when you're riding barrels.

- Yeah.

- What's next?

Do you guys dive, what are we doing?

- Don't call me people I'm dead.

(both laughing)

(suspense music)

The waves I wanna try surf here in Australia

are different anywhere else in the world.

They're scary, dangerous, remote.

Right every way out to stay on challis rock edges,

and they only break a few times a year.

So, when the right swelling conditions come together

you need to be ready to drop everything and go.

It's so important for me to be prepared

and have the right equipment.

I bought a jet ski.

(upbeat music)

(jet engine revving)

- She starts.

- She starts, that's good.

(water waves rustling)

(jet engine revving)

Okay you're-

(both laughing)

(jet engine roaring)

Oh, my God (laughing).

(jet engine roaring)

- [Man] You were super comfortable.

There was a few little

trigger happy like accelerated junkie moments

but almost threw me off the back.

- Almost.

(both laughing)

Do we stay with the Beverlyn sky man

and I couldn't rely on other people to?

- Yeah, exactly.

- Take me out and stuff.

(gentle music)

- [Laura] Everything about big wave surfing is so different.

It's a whole new world, a whole new set of skills.

I've got so much to learn.

I'm heading down the coast

to go and meet up with Whip

who's been surfing these kind of waves for years.

We're gonna try practice towing

and skate diving in proper waves.

Morning?

- Hey morning.

- Great, how are you?

- It's just this shore little intense slab

so yeah, that's pretty heavy.

And you've got really make sure

you're back a little for a session.

- Yeah, I got it, I can do it.

Guys, there's no better smell in the world

in a wet, wet suit.

(forlorn bluesy music)

* I was a landslide

* You were the reason we sink

* I was a landslide

* Who was trynna tell you what you meant *

* But I have seen it so clear

* And you are the one who lets me sink *

* So take me away dear

(jet engine roaring)

- Look, I was coming out and I literally had to go like

kick the board outwards and fall back.

So I felt like I was going to be on the opposite.

- [Man] I didn't know you were so close, you are like-

- Oh my God, that's that one you got.

- Been going on the coast, oh.

What?

So, been going down the coast a lot lately.

There's been a bunch of fun as well

and Whip and the boys been taking me under their wing

and just showing me the ropes

and taught me how to drive the scape, taught me

I never thought I'd actually do.

(phone beep)

- Yeah, how's the trip going?

- [Man] It's going good, it's going good.

We're just cruising.

What are you up to?

- Just driving down the coast.

We're just leaving now.

- [Man] That's well, it's looking amazing, right?

- And everyone's claiming it's like

the biggest 12 in five years or something.

- [Man] How are you seeing going down the road?

- Oh, I'm okay, I'm still pretty nervous.

- [Man] I have no doubt you're gonna show up

and you're gonna make a 12.

- Yeah I know, I don't wanna be stolen

a cup again (laughing).

(air whooshing)

oh, no.

Tomorrow is an early start.

3:30, we're getting to Lupe's house

which is like 45 minutes from here.

I think we're ready in like 5:00.

Can I get you home?

I'm so early.

(microwave whirring)

(dramatic music)

- Hi D? - Hello.

- How are you feeling?

- Oh my God, I feel fine now.

- Yeah.

(melancholy orchestral music)

- Yeah, copy, copy, drone i3 ID,

(man laughs)

we are ready to take off.

Oh yeah, so we're cool.

(men laughing)

(waves rustling)

(dogs growl)

- My new spray jacket.

(dogs growl)

Hey, hey, give your old boy a rest.

- First trip back, on the program.

You haven't driven or skate in a while so-

- We'll be good, we'll figure it out.

When did we surf last?

- Me and you? - [Man] Yeah.

- Oh, it's just stink in just

like three years straight, so no.

- Like a year and a half, two years gone hurt my knee

then I broke right ankle

and then I broke my back.

- Geez, you need a new body.

- Come back to your love, it starts now.

(gentle music)

- [Woman] It's almost the middle of winter now

and I'm already feeling so much more confident.

Chris and I are heading down the coast for a few weeks

to keep surfing and training

and just getting as ready as we can

before the next big swirl hits.

(soft music)

* You are a landslide

* But I have a reason to keep us here *

* You've been through the worst time *

* The worst time to turn me upset *

- I wanna take this.

(car engine revving)

(group chattering)

(man screaming)

(dramatic music)

- We're about to get the scale off

and then Chris' like,

I dunno, he said he like

it was pretty much always almost off.

And then he told me to go cause it was off

and then tried to clip through when I was driving off

and he just looked like tangled in it.

I think this part clipped the back of his knee here

and just like must have collapsed

or maybe at this part.

I think it was this part here

it sounded when I heard him scream

I thought I had squashed him.

Basically just ran over my brother.

I thought that they'd hidden stuff

but then I think this big wave washed up.

And then he just told me to go.

So I just decided drove off

and trail was in the angles to that left when it came around

just clipped his knee.

He like, literally just broke his back too.

I wanted to go home but, go take him to the hospital.

(forlorn bluesy music)

- [Chris] Hey.

- Hey, how are you going.

(indistinct)

- [Chris] I got like a moderate tear, in my MCL

and then like a partial tear on my ACL.

- Really?

(gentle music)

I feel so bad

because all these plans to go surf this year

and all these trips

and waves we wanted to go try together

but, I guess that won't be happening anymore.

He's probably gonna be out for a couple months at least,

he has torn his MCL and ACL.

It could have been so much worse.

I just feel really guilty

'cause yeah, I was the one driving.

I know there's a swirl coming next week

but I just don't even know I wanna go

I just feel like I should be there, help Chris and stuff.

Yeah we'll see.

(forlorn bluesy music)

So stupid, I never strain.

It's like putting weight on this whole leg.

I can't bend my leg in anyway.

(sighs) (beep)

I'm shaking.

(beep) I hope its not bad.

- If had to put a silk around the pain-

- It's basically just like oh, in there.

- Yeah, yeah.

You entered this. - I know.

(man laughs)

- Have you thought of chess?

- Yeah, I have (chuckles).

I'm I coming back, coming back down,

is half way down, it's really painful.

- Initially, you just go, risked it

and not do much at all.

- I should have just pulled here

and tried to go under anyway.

- [Man] Yeah.

Oh!

- Yeah bad.

- Anyway, that's why-

- Obvious, still a big wave, Ipad awards.

- I'm waiting for the MRI results back

I need to get the MRI results back.

Speak English, Laura.

Injuries can be agressive, because they're so common.

It's crazy how I didn't discover Mike.

Yeah, I was feeling so confident on a role and like

the middle of winter now

and all of a sudden my whole mind just like flipped

and went from being so excited to just like,

now it's just in like such a bad place in downtown.

(forlorn bluesy music)

- [Woman] Vee, come over here, come on.

- [Man] Honey.

- How long does the guy recommend?

You pretty much have-

- The ear can just heal pretty good

they did like an ultrasound on today.

- Bloody hell, South coast too

and I have a zero.

I'll get my results back to Salvo

when you know it's surf waves.

Hopefully to have trained my back or something.

I've been stuck on the couch for almost a month now

but my injury is finally starting to feel a bit better.

I don't know if I'm ready to surf yet

but I'm heading down the coast

to meet my friend Benny who's a physio.

There's some good waves in the way of it.

I'll have to make a call when I'm there

to see if I can surf.

- Yeah, have a little walk around, that's good.

There's no way like strengthen

and teaching the muscle

and all the lines on the 10.

- [Laura] Yes.

- So this whole hip was high and twisted forward.

So it was Jammy opened all of that up.

So all the orientation is nice and even again,

couple more sessions, should be strong.

(lighthearted guitar music)

(all laughing and clapping)

- How great.

(bouncy music)

(indistinct)

(man laughing)

Have you met Daddy?

He was like, now you're kidding me,

Dad's like, huhu, help me up.

(somber music)

- Haha, how nice and blue is that.

- [Man] Lets try to make it a color.

I reckon you could steal the cover there.

(car engine revving)

- Where did this magazine come from?

I dedicate this to my dad and my brother's name.

I'm sure mom's bought them all.

It's surprising I haven't got one.

(funky music)

I got an email invitation

to the ADA Calvin in Hawaii.

I'm only an alternate basically

but it's still really cool.

And it's one of the best.

What is the best wave to surf in?

Most well renowned.

Last time when people asked me what I was doing,

I felt nervous.

I didn't feel like I could tell them

I don't wanna do big wave surfing

or I want a big wave surf

but either to be aggressive

and someone that,

we were invited to the ADI, Calvin

it feels really good.

You got like little moments, little wins

that make it all important.

I feel like crying.

(somber music)

Sorry (crying)

(bouncy music)

- She's got the talent

she likes to take on anything.

I truly do believe

she could be one of the best,

big wave surfers in the world.

The biggest hole down I know of is about a minute 10.

Yeah, that was our Jaws.

And that is a mega whole game.

You know what I mean?

Getting washed around and hammered by all these situation.

The forces on the body in such big waves

obviously knocks the lot out of you a lot quicker.

So this is why we like to do this training

to adapt the body in those situations.

Oh, I actually think The Right

is the most dangerous wave in the world.

The amount of water that moves into that one slab

I think it's mind boggling.

It's the wave I actually turned up to

and I'm like, I go get gobsmacked by it

'cause of the energy.

And it's not a predictable wave.

Once it gets over a certain size

it's not predictable.

Calm water, it goes from a very shallow mushroom rock

to super deep after.

So you get driven deeper.

It's probably the only wave where you stay regularly,

big hold downs.

It's one of those waves.

It's a waves that you, I think need

to be 100%t feeling good mentally, physically

and then you'll be right.

For me pound to pound

that is the Arctic, the gnarliest wave in the world.

- Getting ready for our next little trip.

Well, it's actually the biggest trip.

I think we could have a dude.

We driving across Australia

to go and check out the ride.

It's a bit of a swell for it coming next week.

And it's basically the scariest most dangerous wave.

A few years ago,

I literally watched the boys.

I was surfing there and thought they were nuts.

And I guess I'm one of them now,

but I'm calculated.

Not that I'd say.

I don't know if I'll actually surf it.

That'd be a cool adventure to drive across.

And if I surf I surf,

I don't even know if I'm ready for it but-

(high intensity techno music)

Not now (indistinct).

(high intensity techno music)

Wake me up.

I was like a ball of anxiety.

And I literally just had like my dad and my brother

everyone may not try to eat air drive overnight.

We just drove until 10 a.m.

Hunger is just everywhere

there is jungle every single bush.

(high intensity techno music)

I went just slow (laughing).

(high intensity techno music)

Jut 30 hours falling at the slip

was where you fill up the trailer

and it's got a bit of a hole in it

it's just fine.

Oh my God, all of them have been shaved down.

Oops.

Just wear these plug in.

Free costume.

I was leaving Kevin's house.

(men laughing)

- [Man] I hope you have experience.

- Let's have crackers and homeless vide now.

There's thin layer of dust on everything.

I have a layer of dust in my cereal.

It's very windy.

(angry bass music)

I had mine blow out.

It's actually a pretty big blow out though.

We're in the middle of absolutely nowhere

and that being on top of the jet ski just fell apart.

(screaming) That's actually funny.

I see this wasn't going to happen to us.

Hey, how are you?

Welcome to episode one of desert rats.

We haven't stopped yet

because everything keeps going wrong

but we're gonna get right soon.

We're really far away from anywhere

like any civilization

and the jet ski trailer thing

that had all of our stuff on top of it just broke.

So the other guys are going to try

find the missing parts

because we didn't come prepared.

We didn't bring any spare parts when this broke.

So these ones to get connected to this one,

and these ones to get connected to this one.

Bron rations we've got crackers and dip lunch.

Got this much water.

And there's about 4 billion flies everywhere.

Oh, my God, they're back.

Oh, my God, they're back!

We're live.

We haven't tried in the desert.

Where did you get that from?

Look at this, bad boys just what we need.

South Australian desert fashion right here.

I'm ready to posh and wagons in where I live.

(angry bass music)

- [Announcer] You're looking at the most perfect wave.

(group chattering)

- [Announcer] But just bored where it's like

the rock got like

I guess that hit the wall ruggedness to it.

- No, no, no, no, no, no.

Lovely hearing about the ride.

So excited (chuckles).

(angry bass music)

What's wrong with it?

- [Man] God knows.

- What is it? I don't understand.

- [Man] I smelled it.

I only walked around.

- We're 500 Ks from mechanical help

but 500 Ks from the nearest town.

We're on the Nullarbor in the middle of absolutely nowhere.

And you see them surf the red.

The four of our list

in the middle of absolutely nowhere in the sun.

I sure things can start to get tough.

But if you call us on 100 stuck in the desert

we will come to you and make you

something to ease the pain.

(bouncy music)

Oh my God.

(car engine revving)

- [Woman] Help?

- No, we're fine, don't worry about us.

Hi, I'm Laura Aneva

this is my jet ski that's broken

and sad the road

and we've been sitting here for eight hours.

Can I call a friend?

I need the lifeline.

Well that is a sound

of a tow truck.

At least we have whales

in W.A. road trip going hell good.

Red rockers getting towed.

I just sat next to the red rocket in like one minute

and pays if shave for about four hours waiting for help.

But we have help.

This is our savior.

Now the red rock is going to get towed

to the next town

where we can get it fixed tomorrow morning.

And then hopefully we'll make it to W.A.

by tomorrow night.

Take four of the chip and we haven't saved yet (laughing).

I mean, whatever, we're alive.

Thank you.

* I wanna take you way down

I just woke up, just knocking myself out and nap.

I was like, Oh, I have emotions building.

I have ten sad.

I don't even want to say it.

Those four disgusting words, four.

- [Man] Four.

- What else could go wrong, five?

We're still on time to get to W.A.

We'll get there tomorrow night.

We're fine, we should be there by tomorrow night late.

- [Man] Have a good lunch break.

- Yeah, we've had a lot of obstacles to face

but we've so far conquered them all.

(brooding music)

Oh my God.

They made it (laughing).

5,000 kilometers four days later.

We have a home.

It is a sunny 19 degrees.

You've got some on your winds and some high surf.

We're going to go out anyway

and send help.

I'm seriously gonna like chain my ankle to the ground here.

So you don't have to leave for like at least three hours.

I don't even know if I want one way

but I'd be happy even if I just saw it.

- Yeah.

- And then if I decide to try one

or something I'll be like, "Cool."

But not until I feel like 100% ready.

- Why it's just different to everything else.

So the wave's here,

and the sea level's here

you're already six or eight meters deep.

And then you go off the back of the rock

and then waterfalls off the back.

So you can end up being about 15 meters of water.

- Yeah, absolutely.

- But also there is going sideways.

So 15 meters, your ear drums are gonna blow.

Get that hand to your nose

and get ready to equalize.

So the reason we're gonna dump a bit of extra light

on this so that you're gonna be

a little bit light on your feet

because you're such a Sumo already.

The chops gonna be bouncing here

as you go on a long fast.

So the heavier weight can get your board

the lower it will sit on the water

and it'll handle the chop betters.

You are South coast equipped.

- Yes.

I think the winds

like the forecast is totally changed as well

so the winds are looking pretty horrible.

But come all this way

gonna go out and see it.

- I reckon this is good (indistinct).

All right, there's no battering.

(both laughing)

- It will be like,

there's (indistinct).

Which does make you feel really

like question what you're doing.

(foot steps rattling)

There's so much more to think of the (indistinct).

(brooding music)

You know that feeling when you feel frozen, but not cold.

When your breath is locked up,

you're sinking, I've been here before.

It's more than fear and doubt, it's a total loss of control.

And all I know is,

I'm the only one that can take it back.

(brooding music)

(car horn beeping)

There he is.

I was just turning in so wide (laughing).

On those persons, I was so scared.

I was like, I'm letting go as light as possible.

I don't wanna be.

Yeah, I was tripping when I first got out there.

After my first couple of waves

Shannon was just like, "I can tell you're really nervous.

"Let's do some breathing and stuff."

I was like just the most nervous I've been.

- You are right, that's understandable.

That thing was so hectic.

- I don't even know how I would've gotten down there.

- [Man] Such a bizarre wave, isn't it?

- [Lady] It is a huge quick short and-

- Wedge.

Never seen a wave like that.

It's definitely like a big, big slap.

Cheers to that.

- Cheers.

(man laughing)

(somber music)

- It'll never get comfortable.

No matter how much you prepare

it'll will always change.

And all comes down to that moment.

And maybe you don't know, if you ever be already full.

(somber music)

All that matters,

is you know you've done enough.

(somber music)

(group chattering)

- I definitely don't want.

(man laughing)

- You didn't see that one.

(indistinct)

- I'd love to hear the same steps.

Not just see them upside down when I'm-

- [Man] Oh yeah, there it is.

- [Lady] Oh, there it is.

- [Man] Oh my gosh.

Yeah it does, doesn't it?

(gentle music)

* Did I do enough

* Did I make you pass

* Everything feels new

* It all feels like a star

* Only into you

* Then I don't feel smart

* Only into you

* Only into you

* We always struggle in our heads *

* Don't wanna leave you now

* Running circles till the end

* I come on your side now

* I come on your side now

* Everything feels good

* It all feels like a star

* Only into you

* And I don't feel off

* Everything feels new

* It all feels like a star

(group screaming)

* And I don't feel lost

(somber music fading)

(gentle music)

- Yeah, check out your horse.

You've got come tomorrow

but I'm not in it.

So he decided we go for a little freezer.

Try to get some anyway.

We heard the wind might be up a little bit there.

Hopefully it's still good.

Hopefully there's still some rideable ones to be held.

I'm excited.

Been waiting three years

to come back here and try and get one

let's see.

(somber music)

* I'll see you in this world let go *

- Let's do this.

* I have none without you

* But my heart I will keep

* I have been without you

* But my heart I will keep

* I'm all right, I'm all right

* Oh, I'm all right

* I'm all right, I'm all right

* Oh, I'm all right

* Oh, I'm all right

* I have had laid a way

* In this midnight sand

* There's nothing to keep me

* I tell you I'm gonna arrive

* I have been without move

* I have been moving on soon

* I have been without move

* But I'll be moving all soon anyhow *

* I'm gonna be so far away

* Friend I tell you I'm not here to stay *

* I'm not here to stay

* Oh no, not here to stay