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00:00:06,000 --> 00:00:12,074
AmericasCardroom.com brings poker back
Million Dollar Sunday Tournament every Sunday
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00:00:43,060 --> 00:00:48,060
OCR'd and corrected by explosiveskull
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00:01:52,750 --> 00:01:54,708
I was an only child.
4
00:01:54,875 --> 00:01:56,708
Sort of solitary by nature.
5
00:01:57,916 --> 00:02:01,291
I learned to swim in the river
and that's where I met Loonie,
6
00:02:01,458 --> 00:02:03,791
who began to help me
understand fear.
7
00:02:31,000 --> 00:02:34,291
Do you reckon you can
row this thing over the bar?
8
00:02:34,458 --> 00:02:36,375
The bar? I don't know.
9
00:02:36,541 --> 00:02:38,666
I guess, on the right day,
you probably could.
10
00:02:38,833 --> 00:02:41,083
I don't know if you'd ever
get her back again.
11
00:02:41,250 --> 00:02:43,416
Why would you want to do that?
12
00:02:43,583 --> 00:02:46,208
I don't know. It's the sea.
13
00:02:46,375 --> 00:02:49,666
Huh. Righto, drop it.
14
00:03:03,250 --> 00:03:05,666
There's more fish in here,
anyway, mate.
15
00:03:12,750 --> 00:03:14,625
But I don't reckon
you ought to do it.
16
00:03:14,791 --> 00:03:17,166
- So you reckon I won't?
- That's not what I said.
17
00:03:17,333 --> 00:03:19,916
- I just...
- Shh. Listen.
18
00:03:21,875 --> 00:03:23,500
Here he comes.
19
00:03:31,833 --> 00:03:34,250
I don't reckon
we should do this.
20
00:03:34,416 --> 00:03:37,375
- "We"? And don't follow me.
- I'm not going to.
21
00:03:37,541 --> 00:03:39,458
You'll just get skittled.
22
00:03:39,625 --> 00:03:41,166
Don't follow me.
23
00:04:12,458 --> 00:04:14,375
Mm. Mm.
24
00:04:17,625 --> 00:04:19,458
Lovely meal, Mrs Pike.
25
00:04:19,625 --> 00:04:21,791
I'm sure your mum
can cook a corned beef, Ivan.
26
00:04:21,958 --> 00:04:24,166
Mm. Nah.
27
00:04:24,333 --> 00:04:27,041
- How'd you get that eye?
- Cricket.
28
00:04:29,750 --> 00:04:31,291
Someone said
there were two boys
29
00:04:31,458 --> 00:04:33,416
playing on the highway
this morning.
30
00:04:33,583 --> 00:04:35,833
Said the driver nearly
lost control of his truck,
31
00:04:36,000 --> 00:04:37,500
he had to brake that fast.
32
00:04:37,666 --> 00:04:39,916
Oh, no. Those idiots.
33
00:04:40,083 --> 00:04:42,375
- Mm.
- I know those kids.
34
00:04:42,541 --> 00:04:44,625
- Oh, you do?
- Yeah.
35
00:04:47,083 --> 00:04:48,583
Who are they?
36
00:04:48,750 --> 00:04:50,208
Oh,
just some ning-nongs
37
00:04:50,375 --> 00:04:52,541
from way up, way up from...
38
00:04:53,333 --> 00:04:54,916
...from...
39
00:04:56,625 --> 00:04:59,500
Angelus kids.
Yeah, those Angelus kids.
40
00:04:59,666 --> 00:05:01,750
Yeah, they're real...
real buggers.
41
00:05:07,375 --> 00:05:09,166
Ohh.
42
00:05:09,333 --> 00:05:12,083
Ooh. So delicious.
43
00:05:27,791 --> 00:05:29,625
I'm hoping
you've said your prayers.
44
00:05:29,791 --> 00:05:32,833
'Cause if God doesn't look
after you, no-one else will.
45
00:05:36,083 --> 00:05:37,791
Night, Ivan.
46
00:05:37,958 --> 00:05:39,875
- Excuse me, Mrs Pike.
- Hm?
47
00:05:40,041 --> 00:05:42,791
Do you reckon
I can get one of them?
48
00:05:45,291 --> 00:05:46,916
Thank you.
49
00:06:01,625 --> 00:06:03,583
I didn't know
you played cricket.
50
00:06:03,750 --> 00:06:06,000
I don't. I hate cricket.
51
00:06:06,166 --> 00:06:08,750
Got caught stealing
my old man's ciggies.
52
00:06:10,791 --> 00:06:12,625
Night, Pikey.
53
00:06:47,291 --> 00:06:47,333
Some old guy. They
were fishing off the rocks.
54
00:06:47,333 --> 00:06:49,833
Some old guy. They
were fishing off the rocks.
55
00:06:50,000 --> 00:06:51,666
- Did he drown?
- Yeah.
56
00:06:51,833 --> 00:06:53,291
Fucking sank like a stone.
57
00:06:53,458 --> 00:06:55,541
And your dad had
a front-row seat.
58
00:06:55,708 --> 00:06:58,041
So, there you are.
59
00:06:58,208 --> 00:07:00,500
That's why he doesn't want
you coming out here.
60
00:07:01,916 --> 00:07:03,083
Hm.
61
00:07:03,250 --> 00:07:05,458
- How far is this?
- I don't know.
62
00:07:08,166 --> 00:07:10,708
So, what would you do if she
put her hand in your pocket?
63
00:07:10,875 --> 00:07:12,958
Why would she?
64
00:07:13,125 --> 00:07:15,625
I don't know.
See what she could find?
65
00:07:17,875 --> 00:07:21,000
I know what she'd find
if she put it in my pocket.
66
00:07:21,166 --> 00:07:24,833
A flawlessly
well-sized Johnson.
67
00:07:25,000 --> 00:07:29,166
Smooth-touch wonder,
that's what she'd find.
68
00:07:29,333 --> 00:07:31,500
Look out. Move aside.
69
00:07:31,666 --> 00:07:33,125
Keep pedalling, boys!
70
00:07:33,291 --> 00:07:34,916
Look at that.
71
00:07:35,083 --> 00:07:37,916
Come on, boys.
Not much further to go.
72
00:07:41,791 --> 00:07:43,083
Got it.
73
00:07:47,500 --> 00:07:49,458
Hey, wait!
74
00:07:52,458 --> 00:07:54,208
You're gonna stack it! Let go.
75
00:07:57,333 --> 00:07:59,958
No, seriously, let go.
76
00:08:04,625 --> 00:08:08,166
Oh, ho-ho-ho! Oh, shit.
77
00:08:24,958 --> 00:08:26,541
It's pretty small.
78
00:08:26,708 --> 00:08:28,583
Oh, but nice and clean.
79
00:08:28,750 --> 00:08:31,791
I'm gonna go for a walk.
80
00:08:31,958 --> 00:08:34,500
Do you reckon
it'll pick up with the tide?
81
00:08:52,083 --> 00:08:54,000
Never had I seen men do
82
00:08:54,166 --> 00:08:55,708
something so beautiful...
83
00:08:56,791 --> 00:08:58,541
...so pointless and elegant.
84
00:09:04,083 --> 00:09:06,541
As if dancing on water
85
00:09:06,708 --> 00:09:09,291
was the best and bravest thing
a man could do.
86
00:09:32,125 --> 00:09:33,625
Thanks, guys.
87
00:09:33,791 --> 00:09:35,375
- See you, boys.
- See you.
88
00:09:41,375 --> 00:09:43,333
- See you.
- See you.
89
00:09:43,500 --> 00:09:45,041
See you!
90
00:09:45,833 --> 00:09:47,250
Hi, Mr Pike!
91
00:09:47,416 --> 00:09:49,041
Afternoon, Ivan.
92
00:09:49,208 --> 00:09:51,875
It's a good one, isn't it?
Bloody ripper, Mr Pike.
93
00:09:52,041 --> 00:09:53,875
Where have you been, mate?
94
00:09:54,041 --> 00:09:56,041
Oh, just for a ride.
They gave us a lift back.
95
00:09:56,208 --> 00:09:58,041
- Bloody ripper!
- Your mum's been worried sick.
96
00:09:58,208 --> 00:10:00,208
Alright? So, go inside
and say you're sorry.
97
00:10:00,375 --> 00:10:03,500
And come back out here and
take the chickens in, please.
98
00:10:15,541 --> 00:10:18,291
The first boards we got
were Coolites...
99
00:10:18,458 --> 00:10:20,166
short, boxy, Styrofoam things
100
00:10:20,333 --> 00:10:22,125
that squeaked
when you touched them.
101
00:10:22,291 --> 00:10:23,708
They weren't much chop
102
00:10:23,875 --> 00:10:26,041
but we thought they were
the duck's nuts.
103
00:11:14,125 --> 00:11:15,750
Yeah, there she goes.
104
00:11:20,625 --> 00:11:22,916
What we need, mate,
is real boards.
105
00:11:23,083 --> 00:11:24,875
Genuine fibreglass,
hard ones.
106
00:11:25,041 --> 00:11:26,625
With big stiff fins.
107
00:11:28,458 --> 00:11:30,541
What do you say, Pikelet?
108
00:11:31,875 --> 00:11:33,833
Yeah. Yeah, okay.
109
00:11:34,000 --> 00:11:35,791
Ripper.
110
00:11:35,958 --> 00:11:38,791
Look at yous two
stupid pricks.
111
00:11:38,958 --> 00:11:40,791
It's raining.
112
00:11:40,958 --> 00:11:43,125
And the water's as cold
as a witch's bits
113
00:11:43,291 --> 00:11:44,708
and you're bloody swimming?
114
00:11:44,875 --> 00:11:47,166
We like "bloody swimming",
Dad!
115
00:11:51,875 --> 00:11:53,916
Five bucks a load
to chop it up.
116
00:11:56,000 --> 00:11:57,958
Are you interested?
117
00:11:58,125 --> 00:12:00,166
And there's four more loads.
118
00:12:03,291 --> 00:12:05,583
If you don't do it,
I'll get someone else.
119
00:12:07,750 --> 00:12:09,708
Hm?
120
00:12:09,875 --> 00:12:12,166
- 20 bucks a truckload.
- Uh-uh.
121
00:12:13,250 --> 00:12:14,708
- 15?
- Oh...
122
00:12:16,250 --> 00:12:18,166
Ten. Fuck it. Ten.
123
00:12:20,750 --> 00:12:21,875
Yeah?
124
00:12:22,041 --> 00:12:24,833
- Each.
- Yous can get to buggery.
125
00:12:31,458 --> 00:12:33,250
Ah. Come on.
126
00:12:37,708 --> 00:12:39,208
And I want to kill it.
127
00:12:43,000 --> 00:12:45,458
Oh. What are you doing?
128
00:13:02,875 --> 00:13:04,875
I don't want you telling
the other guys
129
00:13:05,041 --> 00:13:07,875
- where you got these from.
- Why not?
130
00:13:09,583 --> 00:13:11,958
'Cause they're shit boards.
That's why.
131
00:13:19,750 --> 00:13:21,583
- Oh. Thanks, Slipper.
- Thanks, mate.
132
00:13:26,166 --> 00:13:27,708
Mine's better.
133
00:13:27,875 --> 00:13:29,791
Mine's got wings. It's cooler.
134
00:14:41,333 --> 00:14:44,041
My first wave that morning.
135
00:14:45,291 --> 00:14:48,125
I leant across the wall
of upstanding water,
136
00:14:48,291 --> 00:14:50,416
and the board came with me...
137
00:14:50,583 --> 00:14:53,458
as though it was part of
my body and mind.
138
00:15:15,791 --> 00:15:17,416
I still judge
every joyous moment
139
00:15:17,583 --> 00:15:19,750
and every victory
and revelation
140
00:15:19,916 --> 00:15:23,000
against those first few
seconds of riding that wave.
141
00:15:30,208 --> 00:15:32,583
Wouldn't be dead for quids,
would you?
142
00:15:34,750 --> 00:15:36,458
Right. Up in the back! Go on!
143
00:15:47,000 --> 00:15:48,791
You boys need a ride?
144
00:15:48,958 --> 00:15:50,958
Our bikes are just
at the top of the hill.
145
00:15:51,125 --> 00:15:52,833
Yeah. Get in.
146
00:16:07,541 --> 00:16:09,000
Just here.
147
00:16:19,000 --> 00:16:20,708
Pair of hellmen, you two.
148
00:16:20,875 --> 00:16:22,250
What is that?
149
00:16:22,416 --> 00:16:25,166
Surfing bareback all weather.
How old are you?
150
00:16:25,333 --> 00:16:26,791
- 14.
- Almost 14.
151
00:16:26,958 --> 00:16:28,708
Bullshit. He's full of shit.
152
00:16:28,875 --> 00:16:31,875
Oh, 13 and a half,
then.Jesus.
153
00:16:32,041 --> 00:16:33,958
If you get tired of lugging
your boards,
154
00:16:34,125 --> 00:16:35,708
you can leave them
at our place.
155
00:16:35,875 --> 00:16:37,208
Jeez, thanks.
156
00:16:37,375 --> 00:16:40,416
First driveway on the left,
half a mile onto the bitumen.
157
00:16:40,583 --> 00:16:42,375
- Okay. Thanks for the ride.
- See you.
158
00:16:42,541 --> 00:16:44,208
OK, cool. Cheers, mate.
159
00:16:48,583 --> 00:16:51,083
Come on!
160
00:17:04,708 --> 00:17:06,583
What do you reckon?
161
00:17:06,750 --> 00:17:08,125
Mm.
162
00:17:08,291 --> 00:17:10,875
Hippies. That's what I reckon.
163
00:17:14,541 --> 00:17:16,541
Nah, fuck it.
164
00:17:17,791 --> 00:17:19,750
My arm's rooted.
165
00:17:38,375 --> 00:17:40,583
Hippies, alright.
166
00:17:41,458 --> 00:17:43,083
Hello?
167
00:17:44,125 --> 00:17:46,125
Anyone home?
168
00:18:36,625 --> 00:18:38,208
Oi. Come check this out.
169
00:18:38,375 --> 00:18:40,833
It's a total hippy love nest.
170
00:18:41,000 --> 00:18:43,125
You shouldn't
be up there, Loonie.
171
00:18:43,291 --> 00:18:45,458
Loonie, we should probably
just get going.
172
00:18:45,625 --> 00:18:47,625
Yeah, yeah, I'm coming.
173
00:18:50,666 --> 00:18:53,333
Don't get all fucking sulky
on me.
174
00:18:57,583 --> 00:18:59,875
"Probably should get going,
Loonie."
175
00:19:17,250 --> 00:19:18,916
Morning.
176
00:19:41,333 --> 00:19:42,541
Mm.
177
00:19:43,208 --> 00:19:45,041
Ohh...
178
00:19:48,000 --> 00:19:49,791
A Brewer.
179
00:19:51,333 --> 00:19:53,000
It's bloody paradise.
180
00:19:54,583 --> 00:19:56,583
You boys
take a wrong turn?
181
00:19:57,708 --> 00:19:59,333
Just came to get our boards.
182
00:19:59,500 --> 00:20:01,166
They're just in there.
183
00:20:01,333 --> 00:20:05,083
- Are they, now?
- Bloke said we could.
184
00:20:07,000 --> 00:20:09,000
Better show me.
185
00:20:14,291 --> 00:20:16,041
This one's mine.
186
00:20:18,500 --> 00:20:20,958
That's his.
187
00:20:21,125 --> 00:20:22,875
Uh-huh.
188
00:20:25,916 --> 00:20:27,875
He's not here.
189
00:20:28,041 --> 00:20:29,708
- Who?
- Sando.
190
00:20:29,875 --> 00:20:32,208
- Who?
- The bloke.
191
00:20:32,375 --> 00:20:34,208
Oh, right, Sando.
192
00:20:34,375 --> 00:20:36,250
Ah. Where is he, then?
193
00:20:36,416 --> 00:20:38,041
Could be in Indonesia,
for all I know.
194
00:20:38,208 --> 00:20:40,416
- Really?
- No.
195
00:20:40,583 --> 00:20:43,083
It's not outside
the realm of possibility.
196
00:20:46,208 --> 00:20:48,708
So, what's your name, anyway?
197
00:20:50,166 --> 00:20:51,916
Eva.
198
00:20:52,083 --> 00:20:54,666
And where are you from, Eva?
199
00:20:56,208 --> 00:20:58,125
- From the US.
- Yeah.
200
00:20:58,291 --> 00:21:01,333
I can hear the accent,
but which part?
201
00:21:02,250 --> 00:21:04,666
- Utah.
- U-tar!
202
00:21:09,833 --> 00:21:11,583
Alright if we
drop 'em back later?
203
00:21:11,750 --> 00:21:14,833
'Cause we didn't ask...
your bloke offered.
204
00:21:18,000 --> 00:21:20,583
Uh... see you later, Eva.
205
00:21:23,083 --> 00:21:25,708
- I could tell she liked me.
- What?
206
00:21:25,875 --> 00:21:28,333
What? She was looking at me
with that special look.
207
00:21:28,500 --> 00:21:30,416
She wasn't looking
at anything.
208
00:21:30,583 --> 00:21:32,416
That's what I mean.
She cool-looked me.
209
00:21:32,583 --> 00:21:34,916
- She was keen.
- I don't know.
210
00:21:35,083 --> 00:21:37,041
Ah, you don't know
these things, Pikelet.
211
00:21:37,208 --> 00:21:38,875
You will, one of these days.
212
00:21:39,041 --> 00:21:40,791
She's probably his wife.
213
00:21:40,958 --> 00:21:44,250
Yeah, so? Aren't you
into those wives? Eh?
214
00:21:50,291 --> 00:21:52,833
The sea was different
that day,
215
00:21:53,000 --> 00:21:54,666
but we went out anyway...
216
00:21:54,833 --> 00:21:56,916
because we didn't know
any better.
217
00:22:11,416 --> 00:22:13,875
How about it, Snowy?
218
00:22:14,041 --> 00:22:16,208
- Are you going?
- Piss off!
219
00:22:16,375 --> 00:22:18,000
Here we go.
220
00:22:18,166 --> 00:22:19,833
Into it.
221
00:22:53,500 --> 00:22:56,875
Take the next one in, kid.
222
00:22:58,958 --> 00:23:00,916
Waiting for a little one, eh?
223
00:23:17,166 --> 00:23:18,458
Oh, shit.
224
00:23:18,625 --> 00:23:20,333
Listen, numb nut,
225
00:23:20,500 --> 00:23:24,083
if you don't get the next one,
I'm taking the one after that.
226
00:23:24,250 --> 00:23:27,333
You'll be out here on your own
all bloody night.
227
00:23:28,291 --> 00:23:31,791
Into it, son! Into it!
228
00:24:00,166 --> 00:24:01,875
What about mine?
229
00:24:02,041 --> 00:24:04,083
Did you see that?
230
00:24:04,250 --> 00:24:06,500
Oh, you got so skittled.
231
00:24:06,666 --> 00:24:08,250
- That was huge.
- Yeah.
232
00:24:08,416 --> 00:24:10,375
My one went all the way in.
233
00:24:24,250 --> 00:24:26,916
- He's out there, isn't he?
- Course he is.
234
00:24:27,083 --> 00:24:29,083
Fuck him. Jesus.
235
00:24:39,583 --> 00:24:42,500
- Whoo-hoo.
- Okay, come on, let's go.
236
00:24:42,666 --> 00:24:45,875
Only a bloody idiot would be
out there on a day like today.
237
00:24:49,041 --> 00:24:52,458
I'll surf that one day.
You dare me?
238
00:24:55,083 --> 00:24:56,958
I dare you to dare me.
239
00:25:01,208 --> 00:25:03,208
What is that?
240
00:25:04,125 --> 00:25:05,875
These guys built a raft
241
00:25:06,041 --> 00:25:08,625
and sailed all the way across
the Pacific on the current.
242
00:25:08,791 --> 00:25:10,625
Wow.
243
00:25:10,791 --> 00:25:13,000
- It's incredible.
- Mm.
244
00:25:29,333 --> 00:25:32,333
Uh... Are we um...?
245
00:25:32,500 --> 00:25:34,666
- You and... You and me?
- Yeah.
246
00:25:44,125 --> 00:25:47,791
Ah! Here they are.
Heckle and Jeckle.
247
00:25:47,958 --> 00:25:50,041
- Looking for trouble.
- Look at this.
248
00:25:50,208 --> 00:25:52,708
Oh, mate.
249
00:25:52,875 --> 00:25:54,958
Heard you boys got
a bit of swell the other day.
250
00:25:55,125 --> 00:25:58,708
Yeah. We um... It was
about seven or eight foot.
251
00:25:58,875 --> 00:26:01,416
Yeah. There was a couple
of nine-footers as well.
252
00:26:01,583 --> 00:26:04,791
- Yeah, it was massive.
- Seven or eight foot, huh?
253
00:26:04,958 --> 00:26:06,500
- Mm.
- Yeah.
254
00:26:07,500 --> 00:26:09,958
Well...
255
00:26:10,125 --> 00:26:12,208
...I'm gonna take this
for a spin.
256
00:26:12,375 --> 00:26:14,916
You got yourselves a lift
if you're looking to get wet.
257
00:26:15,083 --> 00:26:18,416
- Really?
- Yes. Get wet. For sure.
258
00:26:20,416 --> 00:26:22,375
Put your boards in the back.
259
00:26:33,000 --> 00:26:34,708
Rooster! In the back!
260
00:26:37,333 --> 00:26:38,875
Good boy.
261
00:26:40,750 --> 00:26:42,416
See you later.
262
00:26:57,750 --> 00:26:59,500
I caught one at least that.
263
00:26:59,666 --> 00:27:01,250
He was shitting himself.
264
00:27:01,416 --> 00:27:03,250
He'd never been out
in anything that big.
265
00:27:03,416 --> 00:27:05,125
Oh! Neither have you.
266
00:27:05,291 --> 00:27:06,875
I rode one the whole way in
267
00:27:07,041 --> 00:27:08,750
and then kicked down
on the sand.
268
00:27:08,916 --> 00:27:10,958
Well, that's impressive.
How about you, Pikelet?
269
00:27:11,125 --> 00:27:12,875
- Did you get any?
- Yeah, I got one.
270
00:27:13,041 --> 00:27:15,541
- Got skittled on the inside.
- Then later,
271
00:27:15,708 --> 00:27:18,291
the Angelus crew came and took
us to the top of that ridge,
272
00:27:18,458 --> 00:27:21,583
- to that bommie.
- Oh, yeah? Old Smoky.
273
00:27:21,750 --> 00:27:23,625
Yeah, that was going off.
274
00:27:23,791 --> 00:27:27,166
Yeah, there was someone
out there trying to surf it.
275
00:27:27,333 --> 00:27:29,958
Yeah, who is that guy?
276
00:27:30,125 --> 00:27:32,333
- Does someone surf that?
- Oh, on occasion.
277
00:27:32,500 --> 00:27:34,458
How would they get out there?
278
00:27:34,625 --> 00:27:37,041
Oh, that would be telling,
wouldn't it?
279
00:27:37,208 --> 00:27:39,958
Yeah, right, Old Smoky,
it was going off.
280
00:27:41,541 --> 00:27:45,208
It must have been
twenty-something foot easy.
281
00:27:45,375 --> 00:27:47,958
That's a big,
wild coast out that way.
282
00:27:48,125 --> 00:27:49,750
Full of surprises.
283
00:27:58,500 --> 00:28:00,000
- Hi, Dad.
- Hey, mate.
284
00:28:00,166 --> 00:28:02,166
How are you?
285
00:28:10,166 --> 00:28:12,166
Mm. Delicious chops, Mum.
286
00:28:13,791 --> 00:28:15,791
You love your chops.
287
00:28:20,375 --> 00:28:22,708
Love, try and keep your nose
out of the sun.
288
00:28:22,875 --> 00:28:24,625
You know that hat
that Dad got you?
289
00:28:24,791 --> 00:28:27,500
- The fishing one?
- Yeah.
290
00:28:27,666 --> 00:28:29,708
- I reckon it's somewhere.
- Mm-hm.
291
00:28:41,708 --> 00:28:43,500
Tops day, Mum.
292
00:28:54,750 --> 00:28:58,375
Once we were accepted,
allowed in,
293
00:28:58,541 --> 00:29:01,416
if we weren't with Sando,
we were just marking time.
294
00:29:01,583 --> 00:29:04,541
All up through here,
waves all through that region.
295
00:29:05,625 --> 00:29:07,125
Have you been
up there before?
296
00:29:07,291 --> 00:29:10,166
Yeah, in this region,
several times down here,
297
00:29:10,333 --> 00:29:11,833
but never
that far north or west.
298
00:29:12,000 --> 00:29:14,041
So,
how do you get there?
299
00:29:19,833 --> 00:29:21,708
We didn't know it yet,
but we'd already
300
00:29:21,875 --> 00:29:24,583
imagined ourselves
into a different life.
301
00:29:43,333 --> 00:29:45,416
- See you, mate.
- See you.
302
00:30:12,833 --> 00:30:14,541
Oi!
303
00:30:14,708 --> 00:30:16,333
Look at this.
304
00:30:18,291 --> 00:30:21,833
"Sanderson:
Styling at perfect Rincon."
305
00:30:27,666 --> 00:30:29,875
He's on the front cover
of this one too.
306
00:30:30,041 --> 00:30:32,500
Look at him. Shit.
307
00:30:36,583 --> 00:30:38,833
This is Morocco in 1968.
308
00:30:39,000 --> 00:30:41,125
This is Hawaii in '71.
309
00:30:43,500 --> 00:30:45,750
- What?
- Yeah, what else is there?
310
00:30:49,583 --> 00:30:53,291
He's been all over the place.
Hollister Ranch. Where's that?
311
00:30:53,458 --> 00:30:56,083
- Look at him.
- Oh...
312
00:30:56,250 --> 00:30:59,000
Let's put 'em in order.
313
00:30:59,166 --> 00:31:00,791
'73.
314
00:31:00,958 --> 00:31:02,750
'71.
315
00:31:22,541 --> 00:31:25,041
Oi!
Nice haircut, man.
316
00:31:25,208 --> 00:31:28,166
What are you doing?
317
00:31:29,875 --> 00:31:31,916
Where the fuck
did you find those?
318
00:31:32,083 --> 00:31:34,208
Just um... They were
just there in the boxes.
319
00:31:36,916 --> 00:31:39,500
Alright, that's cool.
320
00:31:39,666 --> 00:31:41,375
Stack 'em up
and put 'em away.
321
00:31:41,541 --> 00:31:43,458
I want you to stay here
and wait for me, okay?
322
00:31:43,625 --> 00:31:46,291
Stay here and wait.
323
00:31:46,458 --> 00:31:48,250
- Eva!
- Quick, quick.
324
00:31:48,416 --> 00:31:50,500
Do you know how those boxes
got there?
325
00:31:52,416 --> 00:31:54,125
Hey!
326
00:31:54,291 --> 00:31:55,791
I'm talking to you.
327
00:31:55,958 --> 00:31:57,791
- What?
- What the fuck are you doing?
328
00:32:02,208 --> 00:32:05,750
Why do you keep them
if you hate them so much?
329
00:32:05,916 --> 00:32:09,000
I said, why do you keep them
if you hate them so much?
330
00:32:12,541 --> 00:32:14,500
- Liar!
- Don't take it out on me!
331
00:32:18,208 --> 00:32:20,041
Kids, Billy.
332
00:32:20,208 --> 00:32:22,041
Hanging out with kids.
333
00:32:37,125 --> 00:32:39,291
They're gonna kiss
and make up. Let's go.
334
00:32:39,458 --> 00:32:41,125
He said wait.
335
00:33:06,500 --> 00:33:08,166
Can I play?
336
00:33:08,333 --> 00:33:09,958
Piss off.
337
00:33:48,041 --> 00:33:49,916
Didn't mean
to piss anyone off.
338
00:33:50,083 --> 00:33:51,916
Ah, it's just a bunch
of old crap.
339
00:33:52,083 --> 00:33:54,291
Don't worry about it.
340
00:33:54,458 --> 00:33:57,083
Get your bikes in the back.
I'll give yous a ride home.
341
00:34:25,250 --> 00:34:27,333
Oh, listen,
there's a little spurt
342
00:34:27,500 --> 00:34:29,333
of swell coming
day after tomorrow.
343
00:34:29,500 --> 00:34:31,833
It should be offshore,
so get up early.
344
00:34:32,000 --> 00:34:34,041
- Early?
- Sparrow's fart.
345
00:34:34,208 --> 00:34:36,541
I'll pick yous both up.
We'll go somewhere discreet.
346
00:34:36,708 --> 00:34:38,291
Secret.
347
00:34:38,458 --> 00:34:40,208
Yeah. I think you're ready.
348
00:34:49,583 --> 00:34:52,458
Thinking of taking the dory
out fishing on Saturday,
349
00:34:52,625 --> 00:34:54,583
if you want to come, mate.
350
00:34:54,750 --> 00:34:58,250
Um... I'm probably gonna go
out to the beach with Loonie.
351
00:34:59,750 --> 00:35:01,333
Oh.
352
00:35:01,500 --> 00:35:03,083
Alright.
353
00:35:19,125 --> 00:35:21,166
Can I please leave the table?
354
00:35:44,625 --> 00:35:46,291
Oh!
355
00:35:46,458 --> 00:35:48,583
Where we going?
356
00:35:48,750 --> 00:35:51,166
Let's just say
we have an appointment
357
00:35:51,333 --> 00:35:52,958
with the undisclosed.
358
00:36:25,541 --> 00:36:27,541
They're yours.
359
00:36:29,416 --> 00:36:32,583
Oh, fuck! That's yours.
360
00:36:34,708 --> 00:36:36,916
- Look at that.
- Smell it. Go on, smell it.
361
00:36:38,500 --> 00:36:40,291
Oh, my God.
362
00:36:43,541 --> 00:36:45,166
Oi! Guide me in!
363
00:36:48,291 --> 00:36:50,333
- Yeah, keep coming.
- You're there.
364
00:36:51,625 --> 00:36:53,625
Oi, get my back.
365
00:36:55,291 --> 00:36:57,583
Do this. Quick.
366
00:37:38,916 --> 00:37:40,833
Where the fuck are we?
367
00:37:41,833 --> 00:37:43,916
This is Barney's.
368
00:37:47,750 --> 00:37:49,416
Drag her in.
369
00:37:57,958 --> 00:37:59,458
How come the name?
370
00:37:59,625 --> 00:38:01,625
Well, because Barney
lives here.
371
00:38:01,791 --> 00:38:03,458
Only fair to tell you.
372
00:38:11,166 --> 00:38:12,583
Wow!
373
00:38:19,583 --> 00:38:21,500
Whoo-hoo.
374
00:38:22,708 --> 00:38:24,458
Oh...
375
00:38:25,583 --> 00:38:28,250
- Oh...
- Oh.
376
00:38:28,416 --> 00:38:30,166
- Do it.
- Let's go.
377
00:38:35,083 --> 00:38:36,625
And what about
this guy Barney?
378
00:38:36,791 --> 00:38:38,333
Oh, Barney.
379
00:38:38,500 --> 00:38:41,541
Well, he's not hungry all the
time, which improves the odds.
380
00:38:41,708 --> 00:38:43,916
Fuck.
Tell me it's not a shark.
381
00:38:44,083 --> 00:38:47,500
Okay. It's not a shark.
382
00:38:47,666 --> 00:38:50,291
Well, it's not your average
shark, let's put it that way.
383
00:38:50,458 --> 00:38:51,708
- What?
- What?
384
00:38:51,875 --> 00:38:54,500
I've been coming for years.
Still got my fingers and toes.
385
00:38:54,666 --> 00:38:55,916
You've seen him?
386
00:38:56,083 --> 00:38:59,208
Yeah, five, maybe... six times.
387
00:38:59,375 --> 00:39:01,333
What kind of shark is this?
388
00:39:01,500 --> 00:39:03,416
Like I said,
not your average Noah.
389
00:39:03,583 --> 00:39:06,583
Stop pissing about
and fucking say it.
390
00:39:06,750 --> 00:39:09,666
It's a white pointer, mate.
The great white hunter.
391
00:39:09,833 --> 00:39:12,208
Fucking fuck fuck.
392
00:39:12,375 --> 00:39:14,208
- How big is this thing?
- Oh, 14 foot.
393
00:39:14,375 --> 00:39:16,083
I don't know.
It's hard to say, Pikelet.
394
00:39:16,250 --> 00:39:17,875
It's got a big old head,
though,
395
00:39:18,041 --> 00:39:20,041
and a grin like
Richard fucking Nixon.
396
00:39:20,208 --> 00:39:22,708
Why the fuck
did you bring us here?
397
00:39:22,875 --> 00:39:24,916
I thought you had
the nads for it.
398
00:39:26,458 --> 00:39:28,666
You're not scared,
are you, Loonie?
399
00:39:41,250 --> 00:39:44,791
He's bullshitting.
He's shitting us.
400
00:39:44,958 --> 00:39:46,458
Maybe.
401
00:39:46,625 --> 00:39:48,541
He's calling us fucking sooks.
402
00:39:58,208 --> 00:40:00,041
He thinks we're
just gonna sit here
403
00:40:00,208 --> 00:40:02,041
like a couple
of fucking girls.
404
00:40:02,208 --> 00:40:04,000
Mm.
405
00:40:04,166 --> 00:40:06,208
Fuck.
406
00:40:06,375 --> 00:40:08,416
It's some fucking good idea.
407
00:40:09,583 --> 00:40:11,750
Fucking... Fuck. Fuck.
408
00:40:16,791 --> 00:40:19,291
Ah, bugger the bloody
biggest shark!
409
00:40:29,791 --> 00:40:31,416
Come on!
410
00:40:35,708 --> 00:40:37,958
Come on!
411
00:40:50,625 --> 00:40:53,583
Oh, credit
where credit's due.
412
00:40:53,750 --> 00:40:56,208
You got the wave of the day,
mate. That was a smoker.
413
00:40:56,375 --> 00:40:58,708
Oh!
I wish we had a camera.
414
00:40:58,875 --> 00:41:01,208
It was too good.
We should have got a photo.
415
00:41:01,375 --> 00:41:04,625
- Ah, you don't need no photo.
- Just to show and prove it.
416
00:41:04,791 --> 00:41:07,583
You don't need to prove
anything. You were there.
417
00:41:07,750 --> 00:41:11,000
- At least you blokes saw it.
- My oath.
418
00:41:11,166 --> 00:41:13,041
It's not about us,
it's about you.
419
00:41:13,208 --> 00:41:15,250
Your moment with the sea.
420
00:41:15,416 --> 00:41:17,333
- That's hippy shit, man.
- What's that?
421
00:41:17,500 --> 00:41:19,083
It's fucking hippy shit.
422
00:41:19,250 --> 00:41:21,958
- Oh, is that so?
- Yeah.
423
00:41:22,125 --> 00:41:24,500
Alright for you.
You've got plenty of shots
424
00:41:24,666 --> 00:41:26,208
to prove what you done.
425
00:41:26,375 --> 00:41:28,666
Honolua Bay, man. Morocco.
426
00:41:28,833 --> 00:41:30,750
It's all horseshit.
It's wallpaper.
427
00:41:30,916 --> 00:41:32,416
It's easy
for you to say.
428
00:41:32,583 --> 00:41:34,416
Son, eventually
it's just you and it.
429
00:41:34,583 --> 00:41:36,833
You'll be out there, thinking,
"Do I know what I'm doing?
430
00:41:37,000 --> 00:41:38,916
Am I solid?
431
00:41:39,083 --> 00:41:41,750
Or am I just ordinary?"
432
00:41:41,916 --> 00:41:44,083
- How does it feel?
- How does what feel, mate?
433
00:41:44,250 --> 00:41:45,625
When it's that serious.
434
00:41:45,791 --> 00:41:47,291
Ah.
435
00:41:48,541 --> 00:41:50,750
You boys will find out.
436
00:41:50,916 --> 00:41:54,250
Like, I mean... 20 feet.
437
00:41:54,416 --> 00:41:56,041
I'll tell you something, mate.
438
00:41:56,208 --> 00:41:58,458
You're glad
there's no bloody photo.
439
00:41:58,625 --> 00:42:00,125
But when you're still alive
440
00:42:00,291 --> 00:42:02,250
and you're standing there
at the end,
441
00:42:02,416 --> 00:42:04,500
and you've just made it...
442
00:42:05,666 --> 00:42:07,958
...it's not... You can't...
443
00:42:08,125 --> 00:42:11,166
You're completely alive,
completely in your body.
444
00:42:11,333 --> 00:42:13,416
You just get this rush.
It's...
445
00:42:15,250 --> 00:42:17,875
Ah, it's just like you've felt
the hand of God.
446
00:42:18,041 --> 00:42:20,416
The rest of it is just
sport and recreation.
447
00:42:54,666 --> 00:42:56,666
Can I have the flippers,
please?
448
00:43:32,041 --> 00:43:34,583
The waves that we're after
come ahead of the storm.
449
00:43:34,750 --> 00:43:36,833
Clean and powerful.
450
00:43:40,000 --> 00:43:41,625
Here's Old Smoky.
451
00:43:41,791 --> 00:43:44,208
It's about half a mile
off the coast.
452
00:43:44,375 --> 00:43:46,208
And this is
the continental shelf, right?
453
00:43:46,375 --> 00:43:48,125
So, when the wave hits here,
454
00:43:48,291 --> 00:43:49,958
the water rises up
on the shoal
455
00:43:50,125 --> 00:43:51,916
and turns itself inside-out.
456
00:43:52,083 --> 00:43:54,083
It's not so much about
the height and size,
457
00:43:54,250 --> 00:43:55,833
it's about the volume,
458
00:43:56,000 --> 00:43:57,500
the girth.
459
00:43:57,666 --> 00:43:59,291
That's where the power is.
460
00:43:59,458 --> 00:44:01,416
We'll paddle out here,
we wait in the channel.
461
00:44:01,583 --> 00:44:03,333
We check our position here,
462
00:44:03,500 --> 00:44:06,083
the limestone streak,
the line of trees,
463
00:44:06,250 --> 00:44:08,375
find the perfect
take-off spot.
464
00:44:10,333 --> 00:44:12,833
I mean, it's simple, really.
465
00:44:13,000 --> 00:44:15,583
You choose the right wave,
you're half way home.
466
00:44:15,750 --> 00:44:17,541
But if you judge wrong
467
00:44:17,708 --> 00:44:19,583
and you take off too far
across the reef,
468
00:44:19,750 --> 00:44:22,666
then you're in more trouble
than the early settlers.
469
00:44:27,000 --> 00:44:29,458
It's not about what's up here.
470
00:44:29,625 --> 00:44:33,000
Nothing to do with
the thoughts in your head.
471
00:44:33,166 --> 00:44:35,250
It's about the work
you've done.
472
00:44:35,416 --> 00:44:37,250
That and surrender.
473
00:44:38,875 --> 00:44:40,416
Surrender is what frees you up
474
00:44:40,583 --> 00:44:42,875
to be completely
in the moment.
475
00:44:43,041 --> 00:44:45,041
To commit with your body
and your soul.
476
00:44:46,208 --> 00:44:48,875
With complete certainty.
477
00:44:49,041 --> 00:44:51,208
Not a shred of doubt.
478
00:44:51,375 --> 00:44:53,541
Not a shred.
479
00:45:08,625 --> 00:45:10,291
Hey, Rooster.
480
00:45:11,583 --> 00:45:14,500
Hi. Where are they?
481
00:45:14,666 --> 00:45:17,208
What are you doing?
What are you doing?
482
00:45:18,166 --> 00:45:19,958
Where is everyone?
483
00:45:47,791 --> 00:45:49,708
What do you want?
484
00:45:49,875 --> 00:45:52,125
Sorry, I thought...
485
00:45:52,291 --> 00:45:54,333
I thought I heard
a noise and just...
486
00:45:54,500 --> 00:45:56,375
came up to have a look.
487
00:45:56,541 --> 00:45:59,666
You missed him. He's gone off
somewhere for a paddle.
488
00:46:00,833 --> 00:46:03,041
Breeze is all onshore, anyway.
489
00:46:03,208 --> 00:46:04,666
Yeah.
490
00:46:06,125 --> 00:46:08,416
What happened... to your knee?
491
00:46:12,208 --> 00:46:14,166
Skiing accident.
492
00:46:15,583 --> 00:46:17,791
Do you ever ski?
493
00:46:17,958 --> 00:46:19,875
No. I've never seen snow.
494
00:46:21,208 --> 00:46:23,166
Yeah, well...
495
00:46:23,333 --> 00:46:25,208
white and cold.
496
00:46:28,750 --> 00:46:30,416
How long till it's better?
497
00:46:30,583 --> 00:46:32,250
How long is a piece of string?
498
00:46:33,250 --> 00:46:34,958
What piece of string?
499
00:46:37,291 --> 00:46:38,791
It doesn't matter.
500
00:46:40,958 --> 00:46:42,666
Yeah.
501
00:46:42,833 --> 00:46:44,666
I'm sorry.
502
00:46:45,791 --> 00:46:47,666
See you.
503
00:46:57,250 --> 00:47:00,708
Old Smoky's right about here.
Let it go.
504
00:47:03,875 --> 00:47:05,708
It's deep.
505
00:47:05,875 --> 00:47:08,666
Well, it won't seem so deep
on the top of a ten-footer.
506
00:47:14,125 --> 00:47:15,916
Let's have a look, shall we?
507
00:47:20,625 --> 00:47:21,833
Wait.
508
00:47:22,000 --> 00:47:23,625
Loonie, wait!
509
00:48:28,083 --> 00:48:31,291
- Like chilli?
- No.
510
00:48:32,833 --> 00:48:34,500
Well, you're gonna learn to.
511
00:48:36,583 --> 00:48:38,583
This is new.
512
00:48:41,250 --> 00:48:44,541
That, Pikelet, is my wife.
513
00:48:44,708 --> 00:48:46,583
- You're shitting me.
- I shit you not.
514
00:48:46,750 --> 00:48:48,625
Far out.
515
00:48:48,791 --> 00:48:50,791
Yeah, pretty much
covers it, doesn't it?
516
00:48:50,958 --> 00:48:52,916
How does she do it?
517
00:48:53,083 --> 00:48:55,250
Big downhill run off a jump.
518
00:48:55,416 --> 00:48:58,583
She just soars through
the air while doing a flip.
519
00:48:58,750 --> 00:49:00,750
And lands on her feet.
520
00:49:03,083 --> 00:49:06,416
- Well, that's the plan.
- Jeez.
521
00:49:06,583 --> 00:49:10,666
Yeah, she's erm..
Mate, she's pretty well known.
522
00:49:10,833 --> 00:49:13,416
And that's Utah in '71.
523
00:49:13,583 --> 00:49:16,541
And she's been out now
three, maybe... four...
524
00:49:16,708 --> 00:49:18,458
More.
525
00:49:21,791 --> 00:49:23,416
She's over there right now.
526
00:49:23,583 --> 00:49:25,166
- Skiing?
- Jesus, no.
527
00:49:25,333 --> 00:49:27,333
Not with that knee.
She's erm...
528
00:49:28,666 --> 00:49:30,750
They're trying
another operation.
529
00:49:32,708 --> 00:49:35,583
- And they're gonna fix it?
- That's the hope.
530
00:49:38,583 --> 00:49:41,000
How can she stand it here?
There's no snow.
531
00:49:43,875 --> 00:49:45,666
I think she prefers it.
532
00:49:47,625 --> 00:49:49,458
I mean, if you couldn't surf,
533
00:49:49,625 --> 00:49:51,916
could you stand living
right next to the ocean?
534
00:49:52,083 --> 00:49:54,791
The ocean's beautiful.
That'd be enough for me.
535
00:49:56,250 --> 00:49:57,708
Bullshit.
536
00:49:57,875 --> 00:50:00,541
No, really.
You know, just to see it.
537
00:50:00,708 --> 00:50:03,458
Yeah, well,
I'd rather be dead.
538
00:50:29,791 --> 00:50:31,625
Keep the chicken wire
for me.
539
00:51:00,666 --> 00:51:02,541
They're okay.
540
00:51:02,708 --> 00:51:04,416
I don't want them here.
541
00:51:04,583 --> 00:51:07,166
Jesus Christ. Billy, grow up.
542
00:51:16,833 --> 00:51:20,000
Hey, Rooster.
There you go, mate.
543
00:51:20,166 --> 00:51:22,375
You boys need
to make yourselves scarce.
544
00:51:22,541 --> 00:51:25,416
No worries.
545
00:51:25,583 --> 00:51:28,666
Keep your eyes open. There's
something brewing down south.
546
00:51:28,833 --> 00:51:31,625
- Could be good for Old Smoky.
- Really?
547
00:51:36,208 --> 00:51:37,875
Welcome back, Eva.
548
00:51:42,000 --> 00:51:44,125
Let's just go
to your place.
549
00:51:46,916 --> 00:51:49,583
There's no way
I'd let my wife run the show.
550
00:51:49,750 --> 00:51:51,625
No way!
551
00:51:51,791 --> 00:51:54,083
He lets her get away
with so much shit.
552
00:51:57,791 --> 00:51:59,833
Reckon your mum's
done scones.
553
00:52:00,708 --> 00:52:02,708
I love your mum!
554
00:52:04,500 --> 00:52:06,625
There was nothing else to do
but wait.
555
00:52:09,208 --> 00:52:11,166
- Then we got the word.
- Good night.
556
00:52:11,333 --> 00:52:13,750
Old Smoky was on.
557
00:52:13,916 --> 00:52:15,666
God bless.
558
00:52:15,833 --> 00:52:18,333
Unfortunately for Loonie,
two days earlier,
559
00:52:18,500 --> 00:52:20,875
he'd tripped down the stairs
at the pub...
560
00:52:21,041 --> 00:52:23,583
with a little help from
his old man, no doubt.
561
00:53:02,208 --> 00:53:03,916
That's him.
562
00:53:07,750 --> 00:53:10,000
Come on, let's go.
563
00:53:10,958 --> 00:53:12,958
Are you shitting yourself?
564
00:53:32,666 --> 00:53:34,416
What's he up to?
565
00:53:34,583 --> 00:53:37,000
Hey, Loonie...
He doesn't want to watch?
566
00:53:37,166 --> 00:53:39,166
I don't think so.
567
00:53:42,541 --> 00:53:44,416
Hey, come and watch out
for your mate.
568
00:53:44,583 --> 00:53:47,125
Oh, and spoil
your secret hippy moment?
569
00:53:47,291 --> 00:53:49,333
- Watch and learn.
- Ah, no fucking worries.
570
00:53:49,500 --> 00:53:52,166
- I'd love that.
- Show a bit of support.
571
00:53:52,333 --> 00:53:54,250
What for? He's chicken.
572
00:53:54,416 --> 00:53:56,458
- You're a coward.
- Jesus, son.
573
00:53:56,625 --> 00:53:58,958
- Don't be an arsehole.
- Fuck off, coach!
574
00:54:22,458 --> 00:54:25,000
You're definitely getting wet
this morning.
575
00:55:46,625 --> 00:55:48,125
Feels onshore in here,
576
00:55:48,291 --> 00:55:49,958
but round there
it'll be clean.
577
00:55:50,125 --> 00:55:53,000
Getting out's the easy part.
578
00:55:53,166 --> 00:55:55,875
Coming in is when
you have to concentrate.
579
00:55:56,041 --> 00:55:58,041
You've got to be patient,
okay?
580
00:56:13,208 --> 00:56:15,416
Wouldn't be dead for quids,
would you?
581
00:56:18,458 --> 00:56:20,208
I wonder what
the ordinary people
582
00:56:20,375 --> 00:56:21,916
are doing today.
583
00:57:16,333 --> 00:57:17,791
What are you doing?
584
00:57:17,958 --> 00:57:19,875
- You ride the Brewer.
- Oh, are you sure?
585
00:57:20,041 --> 00:57:23,166
Yeah, yeah, just take it
before I change my mind.
586
00:57:23,333 --> 00:57:25,333
- Thanks.
- Now, watch what I do...
587
00:57:25,500 --> 00:57:27,500
and you follow.
588
00:58:09,250 --> 00:58:11,500
You've got to get into
some of that.
589
00:58:11,666 --> 00:58:13,708
You know what's what, mate.
590
00:58:13,875 --> 00:58:15,958
You'll never forgive yourself.
591
00:58:30,250 --> 00:58:31,791
Pikelet.
592
00:58:32,291 --> 00:58:33,958
Pikelet!
593
00:58:35,000 --> 00:58:36,750
Pikelet!
594
00:58:37,750 --> 00:58:39,666
Go out wide! In the channel!
595
00:58:39,833 --> 00:58:42,125
Deep water. Safe.
596
00:58:43,708 --> 00:58:45,166
Come on, mate.
597
00:58:54,416 --> 00:58:55,875
We'll do something else.
598
00:59:00,750 --> 00:59:03,583
Look at me.
599
00:59:03,750 --> 00:59:06,250
Let's just do something
different, alright?
600
00:59:08,958 --> 00:59:11,708
- We're gonna play a little game.
- Okay.
601
00:59:11,875 --> 00:59:14,375
We're gonna see who can
touch the bottom first.
602
00:59:14,541 --> 00:59:17,416
Ready? One, two, three.
603
01:00:01,083 --> 01:00:02,916
You're right here, Pikelet.
604
01:00:03,083 --> 01:00:06,000
You're right here right now,
okay?
605
01:00:06,166 --> 01:00:09,541
You just panicked, that's all.
We all do that.
606
01:00:09,708 --> 01:00:12,208
You've got this, mate.
You've got this, okay?
607
01:00:13,208 --> 01:00:15,333
Yeah? Let's do it.
608
01:00:15,500 --> 01:00:17,875
- Yeah.
- Let's have a go.
609
01:00:18,041 --> 01:00:21,208
- Okay.
- Come on.
610
01:00:21,375 --> 01:00:24,291
Alright, mate. You're gonna
let the first one go,
611
01:00:24,458 --> 01:00:26,375
let it draw some water.
612
01:00:26,541 --> 01:00:29,541
And then the second one's
got your name on it, okay?
613
01:00:29,708 --> 01:00:32,500
Paddle to it,
turn and commit.
614
01:00:34,333 --> 01:00:36,000
Not a shred of doubt.
615
01:00:37,000 --> 01:00:38,750
Got me?
616
01:00:43,458 --> 01:00:45,458
Here we go.
617
01:00:58,291 --> 01:00:59,833
Go, Pikelet.
618
01:01:01,166 --> 01:01:03,166
Go, Pikelet!
619
01:01:25,875 --> 01:01:27,416
Pikelet!
620
01:01:55,708 --> 01:01:57,458
Yeah, mate. Good work.
621
01:01:57,625 --> 01:01:59,333
Good work.
622
01:01:59,500 --> 01:02:01,458
The next one's gonna be fun,
alright?
623
01:02:01,625 --> 01:02:04,208
Hold off with your bottom
turn, drop a bit of speed...
624
01:03:11,000 --> 01:03:12,875
How big?
625
01:03:13,041 --> 01:03:15,375
Big enough to get the Boy
Wonder's heart started.
626
01:03:15,541 --> 01:03:18,208
How big...
627
01:03:18,375 --> 01:03:21,166
- ...Boy Wonder?
- I don't know.
628
01:03:21,333 --> 01:03:23,250
Ten? 15?
629
01:03:23,416 --> 01:03:25,416
Yeah. Ten, maybe.
630
01:03:25,583 --> 01:03:28,750
Yeah. Surfed it at about ten.
Solid.
631
01:03:28,916 --> 01:03:30,750
So he got waves?
632
01:03:30,916 --> 01:03:32,708
Yeah, yeah, he did good.
633
01:03:32,875 --> 01:03:34,916
I took
the worst flogging ever.
634
01:03:35,958 --> 01:03:37,916
But you did the deed.
635
01:03:38,083 --> 01:03:39,916
Made himself a bit of history.
636
01:03:46,958 --> 01:03:48,791
He'd never be the first
or the youngest
637
01:03:48,958 --> 01:03:50,500
out at Old Smoky,
638
01:03:50,666 --> 01:03:52,500
but he'd seen
what he had to do,
639
01:03:52,666 --> 01:03:55,250
and by mid-winter
he'd finally got his chance.
640
01:04:08,625 --> 01:04:11,583
Whatever we did that day,
or any day,
641
01:04:11,750 --> 01:04:13,750
Loonie did it harder.
642
01:04:19,541 --> 01:04:21,875
He went later
and deeper than either of us.
643
01:04:24,125 --> 01:04:26,208
He hadn't simply taken
Old Smoky on.
644
01:04:26,375 --> 01:04:27,958
He'd taken it over.
645
01:04:29,708 --> 01:04:32,291
He surfed like someone
who didn't believe in death.
646
01:04:37,458 --> 01:04:39,750
Yeah, killed it, Loonie!
Killed it, mate!
647
01:04:39,916 --> 01:04:42,625
- Ripper!
- Owned it, mate.
648
01:04:45,416 --> 01:04:47,458
- That's the way.
- Fuck, yeah.
649
01:05:24,958 --> 01:05:26,958
Hey, hey! No, wait in the bus!
650
01:05:52,166 --> 01:05:54,500
The truckie!
The truckie's stuck!
651
01:06:13,291 --> 01:06:15,375
Unlock it!
Unlock it!
652
01:06:20,833 --> 01:06:22,500
Unlock it.
653
01:06:55,500 --> 01:06:57,500
Three miles offshore,
654
01:06:57,666 --> 01:07:00,041
a bommie off a granite
island... seal colony...
655
01:07:00,208 --> 01:07:04,250
holds a shit-load of swell
and gets very square.
656
01:07:04,416 --> 01:07:06,375
You launch
from the old whaling cove.
657
01:07:06,541 --> 01:07:08,541
- You've done it?
- I've scoped it a few times.
658
01:07:08,708 --> 01:07:11,458
- Buzzed out in the tinny.
- But you haven't surfed it?
659
01:07:11,625 --> 01:07:13,458
You don't know
when to stop.
660
01:07:13,625 --> 01:07:15,833
No, actually, I think you do
know when you should stop,
661
01:07:16,000 --> 01:07:17,833
but you won't.
662
01:07:18,000 --> 01:07:19,791
No, Pikelet,
I haven't surfed it yet.
663
01:07:19,958 --> 01:07:21,458
There's a wave
inside the wave.
664
01:07:21,625 --> 01:07:23,125
That's right, the Nautilus.
665
01:07:23,291 --> 01:07:25,666
The reef must be
right underneath the surface.
666
01:07:25,833 --> 01:07:28,916
Low tide,
it's above the surface.
667
01:07:29,083 --> 01:07:31,083
You can only surf it
mid to high.
668
01:07:32,083 --> 01:07:34,166
The next frontier.
669
01:07:34,333 --> 01:07:37,375
You think that's
possible? Really, honestly?
670
01:07:37,541 --> 01:07:39,375
Honestly, Pikelet?
671
01:07:39,541 --> 01:07:41,458
I need to take a shit
just looking at it.
672
01:07:41,625 --> 01:07:43,125
You scared, are you?
673
01:07:43,291 --> 01:07:44,750
I'm scared.
674
01:07:44,916 --> 01:07:47,041
Yeah, well,
fear's only natural, mate.
675
01:07:47,208 --> 01:07:49,041
There's no shame in it.
676
01:07:49,208 --> 01:07:51,208
Whatever you reckon.
677
01:07:51,375 --> 01:07:53,416
People face down fears
every day.
678
01:07:53,583 --> 01:07:55,541
They make bargains with God.
679
01:07:55,708 --> 01:07:58,041
They make a decision,
they put their mind to it,
680
01:07:58,208 --> 01:08:00,833
then they're half way there.
681
01:08:01,000 --> 01:08:02,791
Daring to try,
that's mankind for you.
682
01:08:02,958 --> 01:08:04,791
I'm sure
you mean humankind.
683
01:08:04,958 --> 01:08:06,958
Yeah, thanks.
684
01:08:12,916 --> 01:08:14,958
We can always go back
to surfing the point
685
01:08:15,125 --> 01:08:17,041
at two foot and sunny.
686
01:08:22,291 --> 01:08:24,041
Piece of piss!
687
01:08:26,791 --> 01:08:28,666
You're a turkey, Loonie.
688
01:08:28,833 --> 01:08:31,166
- I didn't say I was scared.
- You are a turkey.
689
01:08:31,333 --> 01:08:33,916
- He said he was scared.
- Turkey! Turkey!
690
01:08:45,583 --> 01:08:47,875
We started our research
on the Nautilus.
691
01:08:48,875 --> 01:08:50,666
Homework, Sando called it.
692
01:08:52,125 --> 01:08:54,083
But that winter
didn't amount to much.
693
01:08:54,250 --> 01:08:56,791
And without swell,
we became bored...
694
01:08:57,791 --> 01:08:59,500
...and restless.
695
01:09:07,500 --> 01:09:09,333
See you.
696
01:09:30,166 --> 01:09:32,458
Bruce Pike,
697
01:09:32,625 --> 01:09:35,041
you are moody, selfish
and very inattentive.
698
01:09:36,041 --> 01:09:37,916
Therefore, I hereby notify you
699
01:09:38,083 --> 01:09:40,166
that you are,
from this point forward,
700
01:09:40,333 --> 01:09:43,375
relieved of any further duties
as my boyfriend.
701
01:09:43,541 --> 01:09:45,375
Yours sincerely,
Queenie Cookson.
702
01:09:54,916 --> 01:09:58,708
If Ahab has his way,
thee nor me nor any member
703
01:09:58,875 --> 01:10:01,125
of this ship's company
will ever see home again.
704
01:10:01,291 --> 01:10:03,125
I hear Loonie's left school.
705
01:10:03,291 --> 01:10:05,416
Come now, Mr Starbuck,
you're just plain gloomy.
706
01:10:05,583 --> 01:10:07,666
Dad said
he's working down the mill.
707
01:10:07,833 --> 01:10:10,791
- He ain't that big.
- I do not fear Moby Dick...
708
01:10:10,958 --> 01:10:12,791
Hm.
709
01:10:12,958 --> 01:10:15,916
- I fear the wrath of God.
- The wrath of God?
710
01:10:17,541 --> 01:10:20,500
It is our task
in life to kill whales,
711
01:10:20,666 --> 01:10:23,416
and furnish up their oil
for the lamps of the world.
712
01:10:29,416 --> 01:10:31,583
A monster storm showed up.
713
01:10:31,750 --> 01:10:34,416
On the weather map, it looked
like a tumour on the sea.
714
01:10:34,583 --> 01:10:36,416
Sando was fired up.
715
01:10:36,583 --> 01:10:38,708
He was determined
we'd go for it this time.
716
01:11:27,541 --> 01:11:30,708
When you go,
go early and go wide.
717
01:11:30,875 --> 01:11:32,708
I don't know
if I'm feeling it.
718
01:11:32,875 --> 01:11:34,541
Come on,
you know what's what.
719
01:11:34,708 --> 01:11:36,625
I think I'm just
gonna watch for a bit.
720
01:11:36,791 --> 01:11:38,750
Didn't bring you out here
to watch, mate.
721
01:11:38,916 --> 01:11:42,291
- Come on! Fuck, let's go!
- Just wait!
722
01:11:42,458 --> 01:11:44,916
Stuff this. I'm out of here.
723
01:11:45,083 --> 01:11:47,208
Look, I thought
I'd brought surfers with me,
724
01:11:47,375 --> 01:11:49,458
men above the ordinary.
725
01:11:59,208 --> 01:12:01,375
I said wait!
726
01:13:41,125 --> 01:13:43,208
Man, you gotta taste
some of that!
727
01:14:45,500 --> 01:14:47,208
Hey...
728
01:15:18,958 --> 01:15:21,750
Hey, Rooster, boy. Hey...
729
01:15:26,458 --> 01:15:28,416
Come on.
730
01:15:32,208 --> 01:15:33,708
There you go.
731
01:16:01,333 --> 01:16:03,291
What are you doing
sneaking around?
732
01:16:03,458 --> 01:16:05,958
Oh, I just came to,
you know, see Sando.
733
01:16:06,125 --> 01:16:09,208
- What?
- Just came to see Sando.
734
01:16:09,375 --> 01:16:11,333
Was that you the other night?
735
01:16:11,500 --> 01:16:13,625
What? No.
736
01:16:15,500 --> 01:16:17,208
Doesn't matter.
737
01:16:17,375 --> 01:16:19,083
Can you help me
with this stuff, please?
738
01:16:19,250 --> 01:16:21,083
Pardon?
739
01:16:21,250 --> 01:16:24,250
Can you help me with
this fucking stuff, please?
740
01:16:24,416 --> 01:16:26,125
Fuckin' rain.
741
01:16:39,125 --> 01:16:40,750
Do you want coffee?
742
01:16:46,458 --> 01:16:48,416
Oh, I can do that.
I'll make the coffee.
743
01:16:48,583 --> 01:16:50,541
You sit down.
744
01:16:50,708 --> 01:16:52,625
Thanks.
745
01:17:05,750 --> 01:17:07,791
How's your knee?
746
01:17:14,041 --> 01:17:16,166
Here we are, Pikelet.
747
01:17:16,333 --> 01:17:18,333
All on our lonesome.
748
01:17:19,166 --> 01:17:21,458
What do you mean?
749
01:17:21,625 --> 01:17:24,625
- He didn't tell you either?
- Tell me what?
750
01:17:27,083 --> 01:17:28,791
He's gone.
751
01:17:28,958 --> 01:17:31,083
Indonesia would be my guess.
752
01:17:31,250 --> 01:17:33,375
Took your little pal with him.
753
01:17:34,541 --> 01:17:36,208
- What?
- Yeah.
754
01:17:36,375 --> 01:17:38,250
Took Loonie
to Indo-fucking-nesia.
755
01:17:39,708 --> 01:17:41,708
You're the lone musketeer.
756
01:17:48,125 --> 01:17:51,500
You couldn't have gone anyway.
You've got school and stuff.
757
01:17:51,666 --> 01:17:53,791
- Yeah, but...
- Bad manners.
758
01:17:55,916 --> 01:17:58,916
Guru shit and bad manners
pretty much go hand in hand.
759
01:18:31,666 --> 01:18:33,541
Do you want coffee?
760
01:18:34,958 --> 01:18:37,000
I don't even drink
bloody coffee.
761
01:18:38,125 --> 01:18:39,958
Come on in and get dry.
762
01:18:40,125 --> 01:18:43,125
You'll catch your death
out here.
763
01:18:43,291 --> 01:18:45,541
I'm getting you a towel
and a dry shirt.
764
01:19:07,791 --> 01:19:09,500
Thank you.
765
01:19:12,375 --> 01:19:14,375
- I can do it.
- It's alright.
766
01:20:01,958 --> 01:20:03,625
Hold me.
767
01:21:25,000 --> 01:21:27,750
Be nice to me, okay, Pikelet?
768
01:21:28,916 --> 01:21:30,625
I will.
769
01:21:32,416 --> 01:21:34,500
Don't brag about me.
770
01:21:37,166 --> 01:21:39,250
Not to Loonie, not to anyone.
771
01:21:40,166 --> 01:21:41,833
Okay.
772
01:21:42,000 --> 01:21:43,916
I won't.
773
01:21:58,166 --> 01:21:59,791
No-one.
774
01:23:15,333 --> 01:23:18,000
I had a postcard
from Thailand.
775
01:23:19,541 --> 01:23:22,875
There's waves in Thailand.
776
01:23:23,041 --> 01:23:26,500
- He's been in Bangkok.
- Aren't they in Java?
777
01:23:26,666 --> 01:23:30,291
Something about supplies.
Who knows?
778
01:23:30,458 --> 01:23:32,916
Now he's talking about
the eastern islands.
779
01:23:40,708 --> 01:23:42,333
Why do you let him go?
780
01:23:46,208 --> 01:23:48,208
He needs it.
781
01:23:51,041 --> 01:23:52,916
What about what you need?
782
01:23:57,333 --> 01:23:59,083
He knows what I need.
783
01:24:02,875 --> 01:24:05,083
It's getting cold.
You should go.
784
01:24:06,666 --> 01:24:08,666
I can make a fire.
785
01:24:22,791 --> 01:24:24,541
God, you're getting weirder.
786
01:24:26,250 --> 01:24:31,291
- What's been happening?
- Nothing. Nothing much.
787
01:24:31,458 --> 01:24:34,000
It's like you're off the air.
788
01:24:34,166 --> 01:24:37,250
Just got lots going on,
that's all.
789
01:24:37,416 --> 01:24:39,916
So, lots or nothing much?
Which one is it?
790
01:24:47,416 --> 01:24:50,416
I still want you to take me
to the social, okay?
791
01:24:51,833 --> 01:24:53,583
Will you?
792
01:25:20,583 --> 01:25:22,958
Those last few moments
in the air...
793
01:25:25,375 --> 01:25:27,958
...they were the last
happy moments of my life.
794
01:25:32,875 --> 01:25:34,583
I miss being afraid.
795
01:25:36,125 --> 01:25:38,125
Maybe it'll get better
this time.
796
01:25:55,666 --> 01:25:57,708
I love you.
797
01:26:02,375 --> 01:26:04,208
You love getting laid.
798
01:26:07,333 --> 01:26:09,458
No. I mean it.
799
01:26:15,125 --> 01:26:17,125
You don't know what you mean.
800
01:26:19,875 --> 01:26:22,791
Don't say shit you don't
understand. Just don't.
801
01:26:35,458 --> 01:26:37,125
Alright.
802
01:26:37,291 --> 01:26:39,375
Pick you up at 11:30.
803
01:26:49,916 --> 01:26:51,625
Thanks, Dad.
804
01:27:50,125 --> 01:27:51,708
I can't.
805
01:27:53,458 --> 01:27:55,416
It's nothing.
806
01:27:57,416 --> 01:27:59,375
Whatever you reckon.
807
01:28:45,916 --> 01:28:47,875
Want to play a game?
808
01:29:03,000 --> 01:29:04,750
I don't get it.
809
01:29:04,916 --> 01:29:06,625
I'll show you.
810
01:29:08,291 --> 01:29:10,375
What if I don't want to?
811
01:29:10,541 --> 01:29:12,541
I'll be disappointed, I guess.
812
01:29:15,583 --> 01:29:17,583
Alright. Show me.
813
01:29:19,000 --> 01:29:21,000
You know
how to hyperventilate, right?
814
01:29:23,458 --> 01:29:26,708
- It's kind of like that.
- You choke yourself?
815
01:29:28,083 --> 01:29:29,500
Sort of, yeah.
816
01:29:29,666 --> 01:29:31,875
Fuck, why?
817
01:29:32,958 --> 01:29:34,541
Because, little man,
818
01:29:34,708 --> 01:29:37,416
makes me come
like a freight train.
819
01:29:38,958 --> 01:29:40,875
What? You want me to...
820
01:29:42,833 --> 01:29:44,541
...choke myself too?
821
01:29:45,375 --> 01:29:47,375
No, of course not.
822
01:29:50,083 --> 01:29:51,791
I just want you to watch.
823
01:29:55,833 --> 01:29:57,916
Jeez, I... I don't know.
824
01:30:05,250 --> 01:30:08,875
It feels better,
I can't tell you.
825
01:30:09,041 --> 01:30:12,916
And it's safer,
like having a dive buddy.
826
01:30:15,000 --> 01:30:17,166
I don't want you
to hurt yourself.
827
01:30:17,333 --> 01:30:19,000
I won't.
828
01:30:19,166 --> 01:30:20,750
Not if you don't let me.
829
01:30:30,208 --> 01:30:32,375
I love you.
830
01:30:32,541 --> 01:30:34,208
We'll see.
831
01:31:28,333 --> 01:31:30,041
Pikelet, it's okay, I'm fine.
832
01:31:32,916 --> 01:31:34,458
Look at me. I'm fine.
833
01:31:51,666 --> 01:31:53,500
Being scared's half the fun.
834
01:31:55,625 --> 01:31:57,625
You should know that by now.
835
01:32:06,958 --> 01:32:09,000
Does Sando do that to you?
836
01:32:10,916 --> 01:32:12,958
I don't have to answer that.
837
01:32:25,375 --> 01:32:27,125
I don't like it.
838
01:32:29,500 --> 01:32:31,500
I understand you, Pikelet.
839
01:32:33,250 --> 01:32:34,750
You're different.
840
01:32:36,166 --> 01:32:38,958
You've got this look...
841
01:32:39,125 --> 01:32:41,583
...like you're expecting
to lose something.
842
01:32:43,083 --> 01:32:45,000
And you're right.
843
01:32:47,083 --> 01:32:49,375
You're right to expect it
to be snatched away.
844
01:32:51,125 --> 01:32:52,625
'Cause it can be.
845
01:33:08,208 --> 01:33:10,875
I don't know.
It doesn't feel right.
846
01:33:12,958 --> 01:33:16,125
I just don't think you should
ask me to do certain stuff.
847
01:33:18,250 --> 01:33:20,416
Yeah, I'll be here.
848
01:34:48,791 --> 01:34:50,791
Are you pregnant?
849
01:34:58,791 --> 01:35:01,458
Go home. Fun's over.
850
01:35:17,500 --> 01:35:20,958
- Is it mine?
- Don't be absurd.
851
01:35:35,791 --> 01:35:38,208
Well... I can...
852
01:35:38,375 --> 01:35:40,458
Do you want me
to chop some wood?
853
01:35:41,666 --> 01:35:44,000
No, I don't. Just go.
854
01:39:41,083 --> 01:39:43,291
Hey. How's it goin'?
855
01:39:43,458 --> 01:39:45,375
When did you get back?
856
01:39:45,541 --> 01:39:47,458
Last night.
857
01:39:51,083 --> 01:39:54,583
- So, how was it over there?
- Fuckin' unbelievable.
858
01:39:54,750 --> 01:39:58,166
We got everything.
We got shot at, seen off,
859
01:39:58,333 --> 01:40:00,250
spider-bitten, deported.
860
01:40:00,416 --> 01:40:02,250
And honkin' waves.
861
01:40:02,416 --> 01:40:03,750
I copped this.
862
01:40:03,916 --> 01:40:05,583
What happened?
863
01:40:05,750 --> 01:40:07,833
Oh, just the reef.
Rips the shit out of you.
864
01:40:08,000 --> 01:40:09,833
Uluwatu. It's...
865
01:40:10,000 --> 01:40:11,791
It's insane.
866
01:40:11,958 --> 01:40:13,875
You would've loved it.
Just big, smooth,
867
01:40:14,041 --> 01:40:16,875
green walls
that just reel off for days.
868
01:40:17,041 --> 01:40:19,291
- Yeah.
- Wow!
869
01:40:19,458 --> 01:40:23,208
It was fuckin' amazing, man.
You really missed out.
870
01:40:23,375 --> 01:40:24,958
I brought you something.
871
01:40:25,125 --> 01:40:26,375
Here.
872
01:40:26,541 --> 01:40:28,416
- What is it?
- Close your eyes.
873
01:40:28,583 --> 01:40:30,500
Hold out your hand.
874
01:40:31,500 --> 01:40:33,333
Don't look. Just smell it.
875
01:40:34,458 --> 01:40:36,125
It smells like shit.
876
01:40:36,291 --> 01:40:38,416
Had to get it through
the airport somehow!
877
01:40:38,583 --> 01:40:40,416
It's hash, mate.
878
01:40:40,583 --> 01:40:42,791
Had it up my date.
Johnny Cash.
879
01:40:42,958 --> 01:40:46,208
Put it in your pocket.
You'll thank me later.
880
01:40:49,458 --> 01:40:52,625
Lookin' tall and stassy,
Pikelet. Manly.
881
01:40:52,791 --> 01:40:54,833
Hm. I like it.
882
01:40:55,000 --> 01:40:58,583
But, um, heard you went out
Old Smoky and lost his Brewer.
883
01:40:58,750 --> 01:41:02,041
- Yeah.
- Gonna be dirty about that.
884
01:41:02,208 --> 01:41:04,416
Could be dirty about
something else too.
885
01:41:07,125 --> 01:41:09,166
What are you talking about?
886
01:41:09,333 --> 01:41:11,250
Oh, nothing. Just gossip.
887
01:41:11,416 --> 01:41:14,458
Filthy gossip.
The old man, you know?
888
01:41:14,625 --> 01:41:17,166
Hm... Nautilus is gonna break
this weekend.
889
01:41:17,333 --> 01:41:18,833
- Yeah?
- Mm.
890
01:41:19,000 --> 01:41:21,291
Sunday morning,
Sando reckons.
891
01:41:21,458 --> 01:41:24,291
He said he wanted
to catch up with you.
892
01:41:24,458 --> 01:41:26,750
- I haven't seen him.
- He's scared of Nautilus.
893
01:41:26,916 --> 01:41:28,791
Shit-scared of it.
894
01:41:28,958 --> 01:41:31,000
He's getting old, but...
895
01:41:31,166 --> 01:41:34,375
Oh. Hello, Ivan.
Back, I see.
896
01:41:34,541 --> 01:41:36,750
Yeah,
back in little old Sawyer.
897
01:41:39,708 --> 01:41:41,208
Oh.
898
01:41:48,625 --> 01:41:50,666
See you Sunday.
Dawn's crack.
899
01:41:52,666 --> 01:41:54,208
Sando'll talk to you.
900
01:41:55,416 --> 01:41:56,791
Pssht.
901
01:42:50,000 --> 01:42:52,041
- How've you been?
- Yeah, good.
902
01:42:52,208 --> 01:42:54,083
Yeah?
903
01:42:54,250 --> 01:42:56,583
Chopped a lot of wood
out at my place, Pikelet.
904
01:42:56,750 --> 01:42:59,375
- Bloody lot.
- Yeah.
905
01:42:59,541 --> 01:43:03,166
Don't want you to think
I don't notice these things.
906
01:43:03,333 --> 01:43:05,625
Eva was glad for the company.
So she says.
907
01:43:05,791 --> 01:43:07,708
- Yeah?
- Mm.
908
01:43:07,875 --> 01:43:09,708
Got the board back.
The Brewer.
909
01:43:09,875 --> 01:43:11,416
- Really?
- Yeah.
910
01:43:11,583 --> 01:43:13,916
Tuna fisherman found it
25Ks out to sea.
911
01:43:14,083 --> 01:43:15,916
Yeah. Sorry about that.
912
01:43:16,083 --> 01:43:17,916
No worries, mate.
Don't need to be sorry.
913
01:43:18,083 --> 01:43:19,916
You took on Old Smoky
by yourself.
914
01:43:20,083 --> 01:43:22,000
That's up there, Pikelet.
Hats off, mate.
915
01:43:22,166 --> 01:43:23,791
That is up there.
916
01:43:23,958 --> 01:43:26,166
In my books,
you earned that board.
917
01:43:26,333 --> 01:43:28,208
It's yours, mate. Yours.
918
01:43:28,375 --> 01:43:30,541
- Oh, thanks, but...
- No, no, it's yours.
919
01:43:30,708 --> 01:43:32,208
Okay?
920
01:43:34,458 --> 01:43:35,916
Thanks.
921
01:43:36,083 --> 01:43:37,916
It's alright.
922
01:43:38,083 --> 01:43:39,791
Your mate Loonie...
923
01:43:39,958 --> 01:43:41,750
Jesus!
924
01:43:41,916 --> 01:43:44,166
Well, you know what he's like.
925
01:43:44,333 --> 01:43:46,416
Long story. Can't be trusted.
926
01:43:47,625 --> 01:43:49,291
Wilful little bastard.
927
01:43:49,458 --> 01:43:51,458
He's fuckin' nuts, actually.
928
01:43:55,041 --> 01:43:57,291
You know what else?
929
01:43:57,458 --> 01:43:59,125
What?
930
01:44:01,333 --> 01:44:04,208
Well, I think you know
what I'm talking about.
931
01:44:05,708 --> 01:44:07,458
No.
932
01:44:10,500 --> 01:44:12,083
I'm gonna be a father.
933
01:44:14,166 --> 01:44:16,000
Yeah. I thought
you looked different.
934
01:44:16,166 --> 01:44:17,875
Did you?
935
01:44:20,625 --> 01:44:22,583
Well, are you gonna
congratulate me or what?
936
01:44:22,750 --> 01:44:24,458
Yeah! Course.
937
01:44:24,625 --> 01:44:26,875
- Congratulations.
- Yeah, thanks, man.
938
01:44:27,041 --> 01:44:28,958
So, listen, there's...
939
01:44:29,125 --> 01:44:31,375
There's a front
coming in from down south.
940
01:44:31,541 --> 01:44:33,875
Should be breaking at Nautilus
this Sunday morning.
941
01:44:34,041 --> 01:44:35,875
Good clean swell.
942
01:44:36,041 --> 01:44:38,250
Perfect angle.
You're gonna want to be there
943
01:44:38,416 --> 01:44:40,416
with that Brewer
under your feet.
944
01:44:41,416 --> 01:44:43,291
- Yeah. Okay.
- Okay.
945
01:44:43,458 --> 01:44:46,083
Alright, mate. Well, I'll pick
you up Sunday at dawn.
946
01:45:43,208 --> 01:45:45,208
So, erm, yeah...
947
01:45:46,291 --> 01:45:48,083
Yeah, what?
948
01:45:49,458 --> 01:45:51,416
I'm not coming.
949
01:45:51,583 --> 01:45:53,416
Fuck.
950
01:45:53,583 --> 01:45:55,833
- You're kidding!
- No.
951
01:45:56,000 --> 01:45:57,958
It's not for me.
952
01:45:59,291 --> 01:46:01,250
It's an ugly wave,
and I don't like it.
953
01:46:01,416 --> 01:46:03,041
Bullshit.
954
01:46:03,208 --> 01:46:04,958
Get in.
955
01:46:06,166 --> 01:46:08,041
Get in.
956
01:46:15,500 --> 01:46:17,458
It doesn't make me ordinary...
957
01:46:17,625 --> 01:46:19,500
or a coward.
958
01:46:20,541 --> 01:46:22,541
It's just not for me.
959
01:46:29,166 --> 01:46:31,000
Okay, mate.
960
01:46:31,166 --> 01:46:33,416
Maybe you should get
your board out of the back.
961
01:46:33,583 --> 01:46:35,416
No, it's fine.
It's not even my board.
962
01:46:35,583 --> 01:46:39,333
I said you earned that board.
So it's yours, okay?
963
01:46:39,500 --> 01:46:41,708
Now get your fucking board
out of the back.
964
01:46:51,458 --> 01:46:53,375
Pikelet, come here!
965
01:47:03,875 --> 01:47:06,041
You've got your own thing,
Pikelet.
966
01:47:06,208 --> 01:47:08,000
Don't lose that, okay?
967
01:47:10,166 --> 01:47:11,833
Now piss off.
968
01:47:55,125 --> 01:47:57,583
- Ah, ta.
- There you go.
969
01:47:57,750 --> 01:47:59,791
There's fear in all of us.
970
01:47:59,958 --> 01:48:02,125
I know that now.
971
01:48:02,291 --> 01:48:05,125
It's how you live with it
that makes you who you are.
972
01:48:10,500 --> 01:48:13,291
Years later, when
I got the news about Loonie,
973
01:48:13,458 --> 01:48:15,416
I can't say I was surprised.
974
01:48:16,416 --> 01:48:18,750
But it hit me... hard.
975
01:48:21,166 --> 01:48:24,166
A single gunshot
to the back of the head.
976
01:48:24,333 --> 01:48:26,333
Some kind of drug deal
gone bad.
977
01:48:31,125 --> 01:48:33,458
He always lived
like he had nothing to lose.
978
01:48:33,625 --> 01:48:35,625
'Cause he thought
he didn't matter.
979
01:48:41,250 --> 01:48:43,291
Well, he mattered to me.
980
01:48:48,291 --> 01:48:50,500
I miss the mad bastard.
981
01:49:01,625 --> 01:49:03,708
I still paddle out
whenever I can.
982
01:49:04,750 --> 01:49:08,291
Not to prove anything.
Just... to feel it.
983
01:49:09,375 --> 01:49:11,166
That sweet momentum.
984
01:49:11,333 --> 01:49:13,875
The turning force under foot.
985
01:49:15,083 --> 01:49:18,041
And in those brief,
rare moments of grace...
986
01:49:20,666 --> 01:49:22,208
...I'm dancing.
987
01:49:32,589 --> 01:49:37,589
OCR'd and corrected by explosiveskull
987
01:49:38,305 --> 01:49:44,519
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68414
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