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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:19,560 --> 00:00:25,320 SOUTHERN PACIFIC 2 00:00:59,600 --> 00:01:02,920 At this age and age, You need to go a little while. 3 00:01:03,120 --> 00:01:05,880 or at least wish take a few more steps 4 00:01:06,000 --> 00:01:08,250 that any other person is willing to give 5 00:01:09,251 --> 00:01:13,251 Subpack and sync by DanDee 6 00:02:15,680 --> 00:02:17,040 Walsh wins Xcel Pro 7 00:02:35,840 --> 00:02:37,290 Surfer AS 100 BEST WAVES 8 00:02:42,920 --> 00:02:44,220 THE END OF THE MACHINE 9 00:03:13,240 --> 00:03:14,540 That's it, boys. 10 00:03:15,800 --> 00:03:17,100 Long flight. 11 00:03:17,600 --> 00:03:19,280 Somewhat relaxing. 12 00:03:19,960 --> 00:03:21,199 Take that tip. 13 00:03:21,200 --> 00:03:24,800 We kind of get caught up in the weather and we missed the best day of March. 14 00:03:26,360 --> 00:03:28,800 Part of what we do like surfers, 15 00:03:28,920 --> 00:03:30,760 You screw up. 16 00:03:31,520 --> 00:03:35,720 Not every trip we make we have perfect surfing, 17 00:03:35,800 --> 00:03:37,480 and it always works out. 18 00:03:37,720 --> 00:03:39,111 It just does not work that way. 19 00:03:41,800 --> 00:03:43,600 Now we are at the end of summer, 20 00:03:43,680 --> 00:03:47,440 and now my focus is shifting for the northern hemisphere 21 00:03:47,560 --> 00:03:49,280 and the preparation for Hawaii. 22 00:03:50,520 --> 00:03:51,479 When they foresee a strong El Ni o, 23 00:03:51,480 --> 00:03:52,439 Brother 24 00:03:52,440 --> 00:03:53,359 HOOKIPA BEACH 25 00:03:53,360 --> 00:03:54,599 ... everyone gets excited. 26 00:03:54,600 --> 00:03:57,520 O El Ni o, basically like an unusual time pattern. 27 00:03:57,600 --> 00:03:58,919 The Pacific Ocean is hotter than normal 28 00:03:58,920 --> 00:03:59,799 SURFER 29 00:03:59,800 --> 00:04:01,640 ... and allows us to pick up many big waves. 30 00:04:02,440 --> 00:04:04,240 I really started getting serious. 31 00:04:04,320 --> 00:04:06,400 when Ian sat with me and Shaun one day 32 00:04:06,480 --> 00:04:08,039 and said, "Be prepared, this may be the craziest winter of their lives. " 33 00:04:08,040 --> 00:04:09,340 Brother 34 00:04:10,840 --> 00:04:13,520 The last El Ni o was in 1998. 35 00:04:13,640 --> 00:04:15,120 It was an incredible winter. 36 00:04:15,200 --> 00:04:16,159 JANUARY 1998 37 00:04:16,160 --> 00:04:18,160 There were many sessions of giant waves in Jaws. 38 00:04:18,800 --> 00:04:21,360 Extreme surfing, extreme conditions, 39 00:04:21,440 --> 00:04:22,359 simply day after day, of perfection. 40 00:04:22,360 --> 00:04:23,799 PROJECTOR OF PLANTS AND TRAINER 41 00:04:23,800 --> 00:04:26,280 Taylor Knox caught a wave in Mexico, 42 00:04:26,360 --> 00:04:28,200 who stood the test of time. 43 00:04:30,320 --> 00:04:33,440 A really strong El Ni o happens so rarely, 44 00:04:33,600 --> 00:04:37,680 what a great opportunity to see what the limit is, 45 00:04:38,000 --> 00:04:39,920 Until where the surf goes. 46 00:04:42,480 --> 00:04:43,839 I think you will see the biggest waves being surfed ... 47 00:04:43,840 --> 00:04:44,759 SURFER 48 00:04:44,760 --> 00:04:46,060 ... in the history of our sport. 49 00:04:48,680 --> 00:04:51,720 Jaws basically has the largest wave in the world. 50 00:04:53,200 --> 00:04:54,720 And Ian lives straight away. 51 00:04:55,640 --> 00:04:58,000 So he's in a very unusual position. 52 00:05:01,600 --> 00:05:02,759 SURFER 53 00:05:02,760 --> 00:05:05,455 If Jaws is rolling, the world of Surfing descends on your shoulders. 54 00:05:07,800 --> 00:05:10,480 Are you ready to good waves of one to two meters, 55 00:05:10,560 --> 00:05:12,120 but it's only about 18 meters. 56 00:05:13,640 --> 00:05:15,840 And something you can surf, 57 00:05:15,920 --> 00:05:17,360 You know, you can paddle in there. 58 00:05:25,960 --> 00:05:27,880 The way that Ian and these guys are surfing 59 00:05:28,480 --> 00:05:32,120 they are surfing like they are waves of two meters. 60 00:05:36,640 --> 00:05:38,279 You have to laugh. It's difficult to understand, you know. 61 00:05:38,280 --> 00:05:39,640 SURFER 62 00:05:42,240 --> 00:05:45,760 There is almost no other place which offered this intensity. 63 00:05:50,800 --> 00:05:54,400 A wave can drag you tens of meters under the water. 64 00:05:59,480 --> 00:06:00,919 With a Violence that you can not 65 00:06:00,920 --> 00:06:02,640 control their arms, you hit yourself, 66 00:06:02,840 --> 00:06:04,840 He really thinks he's going to die. 67 00:06:11,480 --> 00:06:14,600 Fight and try to force 68 00:06:15,360 --> 00:06:18,800 can burn more oxygen than you can. 69 00:06:27,560 --> 00:06:29,280 a calculated risk that you assume, 70 00:06:29,360 --> 00:06:31,280 and you manage and minimizes risks 71 00:06:31,480 --> 00:06:33,200 with your physical conditioning 72 00:06:33,760 --> 00:06:35,320 and mentally prepared. 73 00:06:41,160 --> 00:06:42,460 325, Ian. 74 00:06:42,680 --> 00:06:44,600 A good ride, good work ... 75 00:06:44,800 --> 00:06:46,100 and stop! 76 00:06:49,240 --> 00:06:50,540 Good test. 77 00:06:53,920 --> 00:06:55,920 Ian is one of our more dedicated athletes. 78 00:06:56,000 --> 00:06:58,240 In fact, throughout the curriculum, 79 00:06:58,320 --> 00:07:00,239 he probably participated more training ... 80 00:07:00,240 --> 00:07:01,359 HIGH PERFORMANCE COACH 81 00:07:01,360 --> 00:07:02,960 ... that any other if I remember. 82 00:07:04,920 --> 00:07:07,440 You go from things that are very practical, which we call 83 00:07:07,640 --> 00:07:08,639 training. 84 00:07:08,640 --> 00:07:10,560 All these things, you can see 85 00:07:10,760 --> 00:07:12,480 directly the relationship with better surfing. 86 00:07:12,960 --> 00:07:16,400 The interesting thing is that Ian also pioneered the boundaries. 87 00:07:16,480 --> 00:07:19,200 He participated in training where we challenge you, 88 00:07:19,400 --> 00:07:20,760 and in this environment, 89 00:07:20,840 --> 00:07:23,119 I think we see evolution in training for big waves, 90 00:07:23,120 --> 00:07:25,480 in this idea of ​​triumph under pressure. 91 00:07:25,560 --> 00:07:28,160 Fifteen seconds. Do you want to go? to the next stage. Let's go! 92 00:07:31,720 --> 00:07:34,600 - You got it! Let's go! -Good work, my friend. 93 00:07:34,680 --> 00:07:36,560 He rehearses his techniques 94 00:07:36,640 --> 00:07:39,160 in the sense of making the right decision on the right time, 95 00:07:39,240 --> 00:07:40,848 when the parameters are very high. 96 00:07:43,960 --> 00:07:46,280 If they get caught by a wave of 20 meters, 97 00:07:46,360 --> 00:07:48,159 need to have all the skills and techniques 98 00:07:48,160 --> 00:07:49,159 FREE DIVING COACH 99 00:07:49,160 --> 00:07:52,440 to hold the breath in a emergency that can last a minute, 100 00:07:55,160 --> 00:07:56,880 and you need to do this several times, 101 00:07:56,960 --> 00:07:59,880 with intervals of only 15 seconds. 102 00:08:01,640 --> 00:08:03,160 Your violent shark. 103 00:08:04,880 --> 00:08:07,080 The effort by which we make them pass the equivalent 104 00:08:07,160 --> 00:08:10,400 of any highly trained, with whom we already work. 105 00:08:11,400 --> 00:08:13,680 You just know that I'm giving me the maximum 106 00:08:13,760 --> 00:08:16,480 to stay the most comfortable possible 107 00:08:16,560 --> 00:08:19,960 in the less comfortable environment which I can imagine. 108 00:08:21,000 --> 00:08:23,360 He is doing dives of 50 meters, 109 00:08:23,560 --> 00:08:25,800 apneia of almost five minutes. 110 00:08:27,680 --> 00:08:30,600 Need to be prepared to the maximum level, 111 00:08:30,720 --> 00:08:32,280 otherwise, will find, 112 00:08:32,480 --> 00:08:35,160 that wave that can not support. 113 00:08:38,000 --> 00:08:39,039 DECEMBER 2012 114 00:08:39,040 --> 00:08:40,639 CORTES BANK 180 KM WEST OF SAN DIEGO 115 00:08:40,640 --> 00:08:42,120 From experience, 116 00:08:42,760 --> 00:08:44,800 DK saved my life, no doubt. 117 00:08:46,160 --> 00:08:48,320 I drowned in Cortes Bank. 118 00:08:54,400 --> 00:08:55,700 The ambulance is on its way. 119 00:09:02,360 --> 00:09:03,660 What happened? 120 00:09:04,520 --> 00:09:06,960 You were pulled down. and simply stayed ... 121 00:09:08,080 --> 00:09:10,949 The board hit you in the head, on the belly or somewhere else? 122 00:09:11,160 --> 00:09:13,400 If it was not for DK be l ... 123 00:09:14,160 --> 00:09:15,319 PLYWOOD PROJECTOR 124 00:09:15,320 --> 00:09:17,580 ... you know, it's the big reason Greg's still alive. 125 00:09:20,360 --> 00:09:21,660 If it were not for him, 126 00:09:21,680 --> 00:09:23,245 heroically, abandoning jet ski to 127 00:09:23,360 --> 00:09:25,080 hundreds of kilometers, in the middle of the sea, 128 00:09:25,160 --> 00:09:26,760 to take my body without life, 129 00:09:26,840 --> 00:09:30,800 and then hold me and cross two more or three big waves ... 130 00:09:31,400 --> 00:09:34,720 You will not find any other rescue team like this in the world. 131 00:09:36,200 --> 00:09:37,920 Saving someone's life, especially 132 00:09:38,120 --> 00:09:39,840 of someone like him, so close, 133 00:09:39,920 --> 00:09:43,240 really motivated me to do what we do today. 134 00:09:45,360 --> 00:09:47,319 I and my brothers, we are all a little younger 135 00:09:47,320 --> 00:09:49,920 but at home we moved, taking care of each other. 136 00:09:50,320 --> 00:09:52,640 And that's because of Ian and his brothers. 137 00:09:53,840 --> 00:09:56,040 We used to call them of "the squirrels". 138 00:09:56,360 --> 00:09:59,080 Ian was the knight and they, their little helpers ... 139 00:09:59,240 --> 00:10:00,239 DAD 140 00:10:00,240 --> 00:10:01,540 ... and it was very good. 141 00:10:02,840 --> 00:10:05,560 If Shaun and DK are there, the twins, he's fine. 142 00:10:05,640 --> 00:10:07,726 Like, they'll get him, no matter what happened 143 00:10:07,960 --> 00:10:08,839 Mother 144 00:10:08,840 --> 00:10:10,079 Make things easier. 145 00:10:10,080 --> 00:10:12,280 It's never easy, but it makes it easier. 146 00:10:17,160 --> 00:10:20,600 What a crazy combination, the four brothers. 147 00:10:20,840 --> 00:10:22,160 They are a team. 148 00:10:23,080 --> 00:10:25,640 He is the oldest brother, we all follow in his footsteps. 149 00:10:25,720 --> 00:10:27,020 If he were a degenerate, 150 00:10:27,040 --> 00:10:28,039 Brother 151 00:10:28,040 --> 00:10:29,919 we would probably have followed by this way, 152 00:10:29,920 --> 00:10:32,840 but he was a student exemplary in the collegiate. 153 00:10:35,480 --> 00:10:38,800 My love and passion for big waves. 154 00:10:39,160 --> 00:10:41,840 I would not be what, without my brothers. 155 00:10:42,360 --> 00:10:43,660 It just would not work. 156 00:10:48,120 --> 00:10:50,440 It seemed that even before of winter to begin, 157 00:10:50,520 --> 00:10:52,160 he was working hard. 158 00:10:55,520 --> 00:10:57,606 He kind of knew that there was an anticipation there, 159 00:10:57,680 --> 00:10:59,640 since El Ni o was drawing 160 00:10:59,720 --> 00:11:01,285 and the climate began to settle. 161 00:11:01,400 --> 00:11:05,040 He is one of the few elite athletes in our sport. 162 00:11:05,960 --> 00:11:08,920 And the twins, they kind of look different. 163 00:11:09,160 --> 00:11:12,680 They are like their own natural training, I would say so. 164 00:11:14,120 --> 00:11:15,728 really connect with yourself 165 00:11:15,800 --> 00:11:18,720 and remain physically active, no matter what you do. 166 00:11:23,120 --> 00:11:26,360 Beyond all science and the community supporting 167 00:11:26,440 --> 00:11:28,483 and trying to help him to improve in large waves, 168 00:11:28,760 --> 00:11:32,520 I think it's just important he surfed, for the sake of surfing. 169 00:11:34,600 --> 00:11:37,880 There is no competition, the waves They're as big as they can be ... 170 00:11:38,880 --> 00:11:41,000 connect with your friends and enjoy, 171 00:11:41,120 --> 00:11:43,840 and that is an important part of this program. 172 00:11:48,480 --> 00:11:50,088 My favorite type surfer 173 00:11:50,240 --> 00:11:51,960 who gets to have fun with everything. 174 00:11:52,120 --> 00:11:54,160 If the wave of one meter or 25, 175 00:11:54,240 --> 00:11:56,480 he will still be able to go there and have fun. 176 00:11:56,760 --> 00:11:59,803 Guys like Ian are the guys in which really inspires me, for this. 177 00:16:53,760 --> 00:16:56,960 Basically, in each high seas, you have a decision to make, 178 00:16:57,040 --> 00:17:00,080 because there will be a competition that you need to worry about 179 00:17:00,160 --> 00:17:04,400 or if you are going to surf the waves that really want, that the big bid. 180 00:17:06,320 --> 00:17:07,620 When are you leaving? 181 00:17:07,680 --> 00:17:10,880 I go out tomorrow night, probably, to Oahu, 182 00:17:10,960 --> 00:17:12,260 for the competition. 183 00:17:12,720 --> 00:17:16,200 I would like to go to Jaws, s to deferrujar. 184 00:17:17,160 --> 00:17:18,920 How do you account for everything here? 185 00:17:19,000 --> 00:17:19,959 So much. 186 00:17:19,960 --> 00:17:22,360 What you mean? You have two children. 187 00:17:22,640 --> 00:17:25,422 Yes, children will be easy after that deal with all these things. 188 00:17:26,480 --> 00:17:28,960 Competitions in the world circuit for about 11 years. 189 00:17:29,280 --> 00:17:31,840 When I was stopping, Ian was just beginning, 190 00:17:31,960 --> 00:17:33,680 trying to qualify to the circuit. 191 00:17:33,960 --> 00:17:35,920 And I said, "Dude, there's no one your age 192 00:17:36,000 --> 00:17:37,920 behind the bid of the great wave ". 193 00:17:38,160 --> 00:17:39,480 So I went to Ian and said, 194 00:17:39,560 --> 00:17:41,999 "Let's become partners who surf big waves together. " 195 00:17:42,000 --> 00:17:43,300 NOVEMBER 2007 196 00:17:43,400 --> 00:17:44,840 I think he made the right choice 197 00:17:44,920 --> 00:17:48,200 on surfing the big waves enough and yet be competitive 198 00:17:48,280 --> 00:17:49,580 events and everything. 199 00:17:51,600 --> 00:17:52,900 Any wave? 200 00:17:53,680 --> 00:17:55,000 It's blowing a lot. 201 00:17:55,440 --> 00:17:57,920 Dude, it's very uneven. 202 00:17:58,000 --> 00:17:59,720 See how big the second wave. 203 00:17:59,800 --> 00:18:03,480 It would be difficult to maintain the position, with all this turbulence. 204 00:18:03,960 --> 00:18:06,000 The sea was kind of weak and strange, 205 00:18:06,200 --> 00:18:07,634 the wind was totally wrong. 206 00:18:08,000 --> 00:18:09,300 What do you want to do? 207 00:18:09,320 --> 00:18:10,620 I think I'll get out. 208 00:18:11,040 --> 00:18:13,680 I'm going to stop in Kuau, get things and I'm going. 209 00:18:13,760 --> 00:18:15,060 We're very late. 210 00:18:17,000 --> 00:18:18,119 Have fun l . 211 00:18:18,120 --> 00:18:19,760 He decided to go to Honulua Bay, 212 00:18:19,840 --> 00:18:21,579 and I think he decided shoot with arrows. 213 00:18:43,520 --> 00:18:47,200 It really complicates things when you try and do what Ian does. 214 00:18:48,640 --> 00:18:51,360 He really focused on surfing giant waves in Jaws, 215 00:18:51,440 --> 00:18:53,880 and she's really in love for surfing in competitions. 216 00:18:54,040 --> 00:18:57,160 The waves are with a quarter of the size. 217 00:18:58,520 --> 00:19:00,399 So they will not see you again. attend the event? 218 00:19:00,400 --> 00:19:01,720 It's going well now. 219 00:19:02,640 --> 00:19:05,640 My battery changed from the third day for today, the second day, 220 00:19:05,720 --> 00:19:09,000 and this has become utter madness to get everything ready 221 00:19:09,080 --> 00:19:11,160 and pack up to go to Oahu. 222 00:19:11,520 --> 00:19:14,600 simply insane, all this season of competition. 223 00:19:14,720 --> 00:19:16,320 I try to help him whenever I can. 224 00:19:18,120 --> 00:19:22,480 He tries to balance both, which is not an easy task. 225 00:19:26,360 --> 00:19:27,660 Just before my battery, 226 00:19:27,760 --> 00:19:29,559 I was warming myself on some new boards. 227 00:19:29,560 --> 00:19:33,000 In the first wave, I climbed it and she literally broke. 228 00:19:34,000 --> 00:19:36,217 I thought, "This is ... Is this really happening? " 229 00:19:36,920 --> 00:19:38,760 - On a wave. "On a wave, like this?" 230 00:19:39,160 --> 00:19:41,280 I can only improve from this point. 231 00:19:44,080 --> 00:19:48,880 Welcome to HIC Pro 2015, a $ 100,000 event. 232 00:19:48,960 --> 00:19:51,360 Ian Walsh, ten years ago, winning this event, 233 00:19:51,480 --> 00:19:53,760 and of course, former finalist, 234 00:19:53,880 --> 00:19:57,040 going very well in the Triple Crown Vans of surfing, in the last year. 235 00:19:57,120 --> 00:19:59,946 If you know Ian, he's out. seeking the biggest wave in the world. 236 00:20:01,120 --> 00:20:04,560 Jack Robinson, 17 years old, a phenomenon in Australia. 237 00:20:05,000 --> 00:20:07,600 It will be a good wave punctuation for theft. 238 00:20:08,080 --> 00:20:10,840 Ian ... let's see. Red, Ian Walsh. 239 00:20:16,040 --> 00:20:19,520 Here we go. Jack Robinson in action, firing in front. 240 00:20:20,000 --> 00:20:23,560 Jack Robinson, in white, in first, Ian Walsh, in second. 241 00:20:24,200 --> 00:20:26,400 He is trying to improve on 5.67. 242 00:20:26,640 --> 00:20:27,940 Nice wave. 243 00:20:29,720 --> 00:20:31,360 And the alarm sounds. 244 00:20:31,480 --> 00:20:33,960 Ian Walsh, an excellent surfing experience. 245 00:20:34,080 --> 00:20:35,960 He ripped Robo out of the first place. 246 00:20:37,640 --> 00:20:40,320 Testing microphone. Yellow, leather. Red leather. 247 00:20:40,400 --> 00:20:41,760 Ian, nice to meet you. 248 00:20:42,960 --> 00:20:44,260 good to see more of Ian Walsh. 249 00:20:44,320 --> 00:20:45,624 "My parables, Ian. -Thank you. 250 00:20:45,720 --> 00:20:48,806 I'll say hello to the 4th grade class of my mother, who is watching, 251 00:20:48,840 --> 00:20:50,520 Pukalani School in Maui. 252 00:20:50,800 --> 00:20:52,760 Hello, Pukalani School! 253 00:20:52,840 --> 00:20:54,600 Ian was well taken care of. Uncle Ian detonated. 254 00:20:54,680 --> 00:20:55,799 With you guys. 255 00:20:55,800 --> 00:20:57,100 It's good to see you. -Right. 256 00:20:58,560 --> 00:21:03,120 And here we go, 23 minutes left for two more surfers to go to the final 257 00:21:03,200 --> 00:21:05,120 along with Kaito Kino and Billy Kemper. 258 00:21:05,440 --> 00:21:07,840 a takeoff in turbulent waters for Ian Walsh. 259 00:21:08,600 --> 00:21:12,000 Putting the level here for the semifinal number two. 260 00:21:12,640 --> 00:21:14,200 Surfing theft. 261 00:21:14,440 --> 00:21:16,200 Beautiful combined curve maneuver. 262 00:21:16,920 --> 00:21:18,440 Here we go, Ian Walsh. 263 00:21:19,040 --> 00:21:21,080 the famous Ian Walsh right there. 264 00:21:22,680 --> 00:21:24,680 Jack Robinson on the second wave. 265 00:21:27,760 --> 00:21:29,920 Well, that will solve it. the second semifinal. 266 00:21:30,000 --> 00:21:34,520 Ian Walsh and Jack Robinson, advancing, in first and second, final 267 00:21:34,600 --> 00:21:36,920 to face Billy Kemper and Kaito Kino. 268 00:21:37,680 --> 00:21:40,080 And we're on our way to the final. 269 00:21:40,920 --> 00:21:42,280 -Ian Walsh. -Ian Walsh. 270 00:21:42,360 --> 00:21:45,160 A beautiful exit, slide in the curve to the top. 271 00:21:45,280 --> 00:21:48,080 An aggressive curve, down again, another turn, 272 00:21:48,160 --> 00:21:50,320 a little more aggressive, the second turn. 273 00:21:50,680 --> 00:21:54,920 My goodness, I could not wish a better start as a competitor. 274 00:21:59,040 --> 00:22:00,560 We got Billy coming out. 275 00:22:00,680 --> 00:22:02,280 Let's see the closing maneuver. 276 00:22:04,320 --> 00:22:08,480 And right behind him, Ian Walsh, quickly reaching that 9.93. 277 00:22:09,160 --> 00:22:11,760 With that chill, and he is in the lead. 278 00:22:14,480 --> 00:22:17,040 And it is simply a return of victory at this point. 279 00:22:17,200 --> 00:22:18,560 There are few people 280 00:22:18,640 --> 00:22:21,239 As good as he is in waves. small, and especially large, 281 00:22:21,240 --> 00:22:24,360 and proof of this their performance in Sunset Beach. 282 00:22:24,480 --> 00:22:26,199 Look at Ian Walsh, it is on fire. 283 00:22:26,200 --> 00:22:29,880 Billy Kemper, he stayed with 5.6 in this event ... 284 00:22:30,200 --> 00:22:33,920 You are one, now, twice champion of HIC Pro, 285 00:22:34,040 --> 00:22:36,640 2005 and now in 2015, 286 00:22:36,760 --> 00:22:38,600 of Maui, Ian Walsh! 287 00:22:46,400 --> 00:22:49,040 Back to the bike. right after that. 288 00:22:58,280 --> 00:22:59,580 Right. 289 00:22:59,880 --> 00:23:01,180 Winter has come. 290 00:23:03,520 --> 00:23:04,799 What a day. 291 00:23:04,800 --> 00:23:06,560 Damn it, I'm so excited! 292 00:23:09,160 --> 00:23:12,080 It's so good to win a tournament. 293 00:23:12,240 --> 00:23:14,920 Oh, my God, I'm so electric. 294 00:23:15,240 --> 00:23:19,600 But it's so good. So many times, I've been so close to achieving this. 295 00:23:27,720 --> 00:23:29,240 ... for Ian Walsh, 296 00:23:29,600 --> 00:23:31,560 and certainly for all children 297 00:23:31,760 --> 00:23:34,440 of his mother's class, at the Pukalani School ... 298 00:23:34,520 --> 00:23:35,820 EAST Airport Joint Base 299 00:23:41,240 --> 00:23:42,540 BOX OFFICE 300 00:23:47,240 --> 00:23:49,160 4:20 p.m. 301 00:23:52,280 --> 00:23:54,480 Good job. Parab ns. 302 00:23:54,960 --> 00:23:56,079 I had fun. 303 00:23:56,080 --> 00:23:57,520 I'm so excited. 304 00:24:07,760 --> 00:24:09,060 Thank you guys. 305 00:24:09,080 --> 00:24:11,880 Surely it would not have been possible without you all, folks, 306 00:24:11,960 --> 00:24:13,239 we are all one great unity, 307 00:24:13,240 --> 00:24:15,920 Therefore, Thank you and have fun tonight. 308 00:24:29,800 --> 00:24:31,440 I do not know about this year. 309 00:24:32,080 --> 00:24:34,949 Let's just pray that all right, for the safety of all, 310 00:24:35,120 --> 00:24:38,400 because everyone is anxious to continue. 311 00:24:40,240 --> 00:24:43,760 With the winter season with El Ni o arriving, 312 00:24:43,840 --> 00:24:47,880 there are faces that really Believe and want to surf 313 00:24:48,000 --> 00:24:50,160 in waves of 25 meters per year, 314 00:24:50,240 --> 00:24:53,560 and, the limit point, you know, the size of the wave that can surf, 315 00:24:54,240 --> 00:24:55,960 depends on the desire of each. 316 00:24:56,920 --> 00:24:58,680 It will always progress. 317 00:24:58,800 --> 00:25:00,800 For me, sit here and say: 318 00:25:01,000 --> 00:25:03,680 "No, in our generation, no one will get over it, " 319 00:25:03,920 --> 00:25:05,220 Stupidity. 320 00:25:06,280 --> 00:25:07,519 On the right day, 321 00:25:07,520 --> 00:25:09,319 with the right conditions, with the right security team. 322 00:25:09,320 --> 00:25:12,320 Probably see someone this year that would do the impossible. 323 00:25:14,200 --> 00:25:15,840 You can feel the tension in the air, 324 00:25:15,920 --> 00:25:19,400 but I can always understand how much fun they have. 325 00:25:19,600 --> 00:25:23,040 They prepare the day before, Wake up at daybreak ... 326 00:25:24,600 --> 00:25:27,800 JANUARY 4 327 00:25:27,880 --> 00:25:30,720 Prediction: 3.7m by 16.7 seconds Estimated Front Height: 14.5m 328 00:25:30,800 --> 00:25:33,840 The first high sea of ​​the year in Jaws It's always very exciting. 329 00:25:34,640 --> 00:25:37,422 Everyone is a little nervous and excited to see each other. 330 00:25:37,520 --> 00:25:40,120 It has that energy in the air that you can not reproduce. 331 00:25:40,640 --> 00:25:42,239 Almost as if we were entering 332 00:25:42,240 --> 00:25:44,559 in a gladiator battle every time we go there, 333 00:25:44,560 --> 00:25:46,680 Like, you do not know. what will happen 334 00:25:47,320 --> 00:25:48,319 AQUATIC SECURITY 335 00:25:48,320 --> 00:25:49,799 I was not in fact here this morning 336 00:25:49,800 --> 00:25:53,080 Then we slow everything down. instead of starting at six o'clock, 337 00:25:53,160 --> 00:25:56,720 we simply decided come back with things 338 00:25:56,800 --> 00:26:00,160 And let's not get tired of staying out here waiting for the waves. 339 00:26:01,360 --> 00:26:02,760 The winds come, 340 00:26:02,840 --> 00:26:05,399 but there is no wind now, the faster we get out of here 341 00:26:05,400 --> 00:26:06,700 the better it will be. 342 00:26:24,600 --> 00:26:28,480 The first thing you really feel the texture of the ocean. 343 00:26:29,040 --> 00:26:31,360 So you feel if there is wind or if the sea is agitated. 344 00:26:32,120 --> 00:26:34,880 There is a lot of refraction coming from the rocks. 345 00:26:35,800 --> 00:26:38,160 You feel the energy of the sea, 346 00:26:38,760 --> 00:26:41,720 and it's really when Things go right in the day. 347 00:26:41,880 --> 00:26:44,280 Ian is paddling. Ian is starting. 348 00:26:55,600 --> 00:26:56,759 It was a difficult one. 349 00:26:56,760 --> 00:26:58,240 It was very entertaining. 350 00:27:07,800 --> 00:27:09,360 Keep an eye out, here comes the sequence. 351 00:27:20,720 --> 00:27:22,640 Take the rope. Take the rope. 352 00:27:22,760 --> 00:27:24,060 All right? 353 00:27:26,200 --> 00:27:27,500 Right. or Greg. 354 00:27:32,480 --> 00:27:34,240 or Ian. 355 00:27:34,360 --> 00:27:35,920 Ian de p . 356 00:27:48,400 --> 00:27:50,480 I think I cut myself ugly. 357 00:27:50,680 --> 00:27:53,080 We're heading back to the boat. Ian cut his finger. 358 00:27:53,200 --> 00:27:54,500 Prepare the boat. 359 00:27:55,080 --> 00:27:56,558 -Do you think I can still surf? -Yes. 360 00:27:57,280 --> 00:27:58,760 Just wrap it around. Sew then. 361 00:27:59,080 --> 00:28:01,000 I had a small solution in the middle of the day. 362 00:28:01,080 --> 00:28:04,120 The back of the helm cut my finger 363 00:28:04,200 --> 00:28:05,760 practically to the bone. 364 00:28:05,880 --> 00:28:07,920 I made a quick bandage and returned to the sea, 365 00:28:08,000 --> 00:28:10,640 and I got another cool wave which was very unstable. 366 00:28:12,640 --> 00:28:14,205 I ended up taking a break to relax 367 00:28:14,320 --> 00:28:17,000 and the waves stayed strange soon after. 368 00:28:21,440 --> 00:28:24,309 That small dose of wind does the difference between day and night. 369 00:28:24,320 --> 00:28:27,160 See nothing and have salt water in the eyes ... 370 00:28:29,880 --> 00:28:31,920 Basically like jumped from a bridge 371 00:28:32,000 --> 00:28:33,680 without knowing what is down there. 372 00:28:37,520 --> 00:28:41,200 On a very good day in Jaws, You could go and get a wave. 373 00:28:41,280 --> 00:28:43,400 at seven, eight, nine o'clock. 374 00:28:46,040 --> 00:28:48,160 Finally we gathered the whole team, 375 00:28:48,240 --> 00:28:50,240 and I'll have my finger sewn tonight, 376 00:28:50,360 --> 00:28:53,920 make sure I did not break no tendencies or anything. 377 00:28:54,680 --> 00:28:58,280 I think it was a mean day today, but it was a good start. 378 00:28:59,200 --> 00:29:00,560 It's just the beginning. 379 00:29:02,840 --> 00:29:05,200 Stretch. Good. Close. 380 00:29:05,320 --> 00:29:06,279 Stretch. 381 00:29:06,280 --> 00:29:07,975 Good. Now go down. his hand completely. 382 00:29:08,520 --> 00:29:10,680 If there is a competition, a mari pica, 383 00:29:10,760 --> 00:29:12,839 And you need to surf tomorrow, I could protect him. 384 00:29:12,840 --> 00:29:15,440 It is better to stay out of the water for a few days. 385 00:29:15,560 --> 00:29:17,640 Yeah, I'm aiming for the 10th. 386 00:29:17,720 --> 00:29:20,480 -Right. -Then, 6 days would be my goal. 387 00:29:25,400 --> 00:29:28,240 The whole history of wave surfing giants very interesting. 388 00:29:28,640 --> 00:29:30,400 You know, these guys are pioneers. 389 00:29:30,600 --> 00:29:33,440 They will l without strings and without safety equipment. 390 00:29:34,080 --> 00:29:38,680 There has always been this idea that anything over ten meters 391 00:29:38,760 --> 00:29:41,280 it starts to get very dangerous for surfing, 392 00:29:41,360 --> 00:29:43,480 this impossible limit of size. 393 00:29:43,560 --> 00:29:46,880 And then there was the introduction of this type of surfing with trailer. 394 00:29:47,080 --> 00:29:49,036 Basically, you can climb on a board, 395 00:29:49,080 --> 00:29:50,775 could be placed in a great wave. 396 00:29:51,240 --> 00:29:54,400 It can surf ten or 15 waves of this type 397 00:29:54,480 --> 00:29:57,160 because you can position much more. 398 00:29:57,600 --> 00:30:00,079 You have a machine that can traveling at 65 kilometers per hour, 399 00:30:00,080 --> 00:30:02,880 and if it has a wave of 15 meters in that direction, go and get it. 400 00:30:05,400 --> 00:30:08,880 The guys would not surf all year, they would come to take the 15-meter ones. 401 00:30:08,960 --> 00:30:10,280 insane. 402 00:30:11,840 --> 00:30:14,520 You take any ordinary person to surfing paddling in Jaws, 403 00:30:14,920 --> 00:30:16,720 can not get a wave, and if caught, 404 00:30:16,800 --> 00:30:18,640 will be totally annihilated. 405 00:30:28,920 --> 00:30:34,000 The revolution of towing surf in the showed that it was possible to survive 406 00:30:34,080 --> 00:30:36,440 to much larger waves than we imagined. 407 00:30:42,760 --> 00:30:44,760 The tow surfing helped establish 408 00:30:44,960 --> 00:30:47,640 the jet ski as a security tool 409 00:30:47,720 --> 00:30:49,640 and for everything you do in the ocean. 410 00:30:51,320 --> 00:30:56,840 It was really the step for the next one. evolution of giant wave surfing. 411 00:30:58,040 --> 00:31:00,680 I used to compete paddling with the boards, 412 00:31:00,760 --> 00:31:03,000 and had the idea that I could do 413 00:31:03,200 --> 00:31:04,920 these boards be faster. 414 00:31:06,080 --> 00:31:10,480 That's when Ian, Greg and some other guys 415 00:31:10,600 --> 00:31:12,360 they began to row these things. 416 00:31:14,320 --> 00:31:17,440 We make this conscious decision to stop with the trailer surfing 417 00:31:17,640 --> 00:31:19,120 and return to rowing. 418 00:31:24,520 --> 00:31:27,520 All the speed at which the wave travels when it reaches 15 meters 419 00:31:27,600 --> 00:31:30,960 Too fast for drawing standard board Everything needs to change. 420 00:31:32,480 --> 00:31:34,088 Are they ready? I'm not sure. 421 00:31:34,160 --> 00:31:36,840 No one has done this before, then no one knows. 422 00:31:38,480 --> 00:31:41,640 Chris Christenson, he has the details 423 00:31:41,720 --> 00:31:44,560 I do not think any other plank designer has. 424 00:31:45,280 --> 00:31:48,760 So I plan to find something Give us a little more 425 00:31:48,840 --> 00:31:50,480 and that every time I get sick, 426 00:31:50,560 --> 00:31:53,120 or because I went down the wave too fast. 427 00:31:53,200 --> 00:31:54,879 After every big mar that he surfs, 428 00:31:54,880 --> 00:31:56,749 we talked to each other, shortly thereafter. 429 00:31:56,800 --> 00:31:59,000 Have this trail more parallel up there 430 00:31:59,080 --> 00:32:01,340 will allow plank to work better at the base of the wave, 431 00:32:01,360 --> 00:32:04,440 we will allow you to paddle faster with shoulders farther apart 432 00:32:04,520 --> 00:32:07,560 and have a larger syrup, will give you more maneuverability. 433 00:32:10,680 --> 00:32:13,880 If they can trust me before entering the water, 434 00:32:13,960 --> 00:32:16,240 this leaves them at an advantage in the game. 435 00:32:22,280 --> 00:32:24,720 JANUARY, 10 436 00:32:26,160 --> 00:32:27,839 Preview 3.9m in 14.7 seconds Estimated Front Height: 13m 437 00:32:27,840 --> 00:32:29,480 The forecast looks very good, 438 00:32:29,600 --> 00:32:31,160 probably the best of the year. 439 00:32:31,280 --> 00:32:33,119 Do you think it's the size What are Ian looking for? 440 00:32:33,120 --> 00:32:35,800 No, Ian is looking for for as long as possible. 441 00:32:37,600 --> 00:32:40,240 It just ... looks like the sea is not here yet 442 00:32:40,360 --> 00:32:43,560 I do not know, markers simply they are not obvious. 443 00:32:44,000 --> 00:32:47,000 I think we're just going to start now and continue with our plan 444 00:32:47,080 --> 00:32:48,380 and go to l at first light, 445 00:32:48,400 --> 00:32:50,520 hoping it gets better throughout the morning. 446 00:32:57,240 --> 00:32:59,280 The best conditions till now. 447 00:33:02,560 --> 00:33:05,400 The fact of the forecast we have indicated light winds 448 00:33:05,480 --> 00:33:08,640 aroused much more interest of surfers around the world. 449 00:33:21,320 --> 00:33:23,720 Concentration of people in the morning was lighter, 450 00:33:23,840 --> 00:33:26,760 so you could stand and begin to line up with the waves 451 00:33:26,840 --> 00:33:29,480 any way he wanted, where he wanted to pick them up. 452 00:33:39,000 --> 00:33:42,600 I think the board of a guy passed well above me at the end of the tube. 453 00:33:53,240 --> 00:33:55,400 And so, according to more people arrive, 454 00:33:55,480 --> 00:33:57,320 the place you take it the waves dictation, 455 00:33:57,520 --> 00:33:59,240 based on where he's stuck in the crowd. 456 00:34:01,960 --> 00:34:04,879 You know, when you're turning around, trying to paddle for a giant wave, 457 00:34:04,880 --> 00:34:06,880 and you have people on your left, and on the right, 458 00:34:06,915 --> 00:34:08,039 positioning itself, calling ... 459 00:34:08,040 --> 00:34:10,439 The press is there. H helicopters flying everywhere, 460 00:34:10,440 --> 00:34:12,720 drones buzzing in your head, 461 00:34:12,800 --> 00:34:15,640 boats passing one upon the other, It's just chaos. 462 00:34:17,400 --> 00:34:19,200 I surfed in Jaws for 15 years, 463 00:34:19,280 --> 00:34:21,760 and I will not go there anymore because it's just a crazy zone. 464 00:34:21,880 --> 00:34:23,400 It's not fun, it's very dangerous. 465 00:34:24,560 --> 00:34:27,255 The last thing I want to do To hurt someone with the board. 466 00:34:29,840 --> 00:34:31,960 When you make mistakes. 467 00:34:32,040 --> 00:34:35,400 You know, you're surfing accordingly. with the crowd, not with what he wants. 468 00:34:43,280 --> 00:34:46,360 When you have 50 people l , I definitely do not feel comfortable 469 00:34:46,440 --> 00:34:48,600 Ian, on the other hand, It seems to go well. 470 00:35:41,360 --> 00:35:43,480 Let's get a second wave. 471 00:36:13,000 --> 00:36:17,040 To stay with my brother in the water in Jaws It's something I can not even explain. 472 00:36:17,800 --> 00:36:20,040 probably one of the moments more special. 473 00:36:20,240 --> 00:36:23,000 There is nothing that we can not be, It is the best feeling in the world. 474 00:36:23,600 --> 00:36:26,840 On most days, we take turns, making the security of each other, 475 00:36:26,960 --> 00:36:29,080 and this gives us all a chance to surf. 476 00:36:59,000 --> 00:37:02,200 Only three or four very good sequences came today, 477 00:37:02,280 --> 00:37:04,480 in a period of eight to ten hours. 478 00:37:05,640 --> 00:37:08,080 The climate and all things are here, but the sea. 479 00:37:08,720 --> 00:37:10,080 The waves are very small. 480 00:37:10,360 --> 00:37:12,880 I will be impressed if they really hit it. 481 00:37:18,880 --> 00:37:21,720 A great contribution for evolution 482 00:37:21,920 --> 00:37:23,640 of the sport, in fact, the security. 483 00:37:24,120 --> 00:37:27,520 And the most notable is the inflatable clothing. that we have developed. 484 00:37:27,600 --> 00:37:29,840 I had the idea of inflatable bathing suit 485 00:37:29,920 --> 00:37:31,919 for an experiment of near death in the Mavericks. 486 00:37:31,920 --> 00:37:35,960 December 2010 487 00:37:37,840 --> 00:37:40,440 I was getting old, He was married, having children, 488 00:37:40,640 --> 00:37:43,248 I just felt it was too dangerous to be worth it. 489 00:37:44,240 --> 00:37:47,840 It was something that was necessary, because the sport has reached a level 490 00:37:47,920 --> 00:37:49,960 in which we were losing people. 491 00:37:50,040 --> 00:37:51,840 You know, that was not acceptable. 492 00:37:54,040 --> 00:37:56,160 When you fall, you pull a rope, 493 00:37:56,240 --> 00:37:58,880 the costume inflates and takes you to the surface. 494 00:37:59,480 --> 00:38:00,639 You will not think: 495 00:38:00,640 --> 00:38:02,439 "You know what? I'm sure. because I have the suit. " 496 00:38:02,440 --> 00:38:04,200 You do not want to have that attitude. 497 00:38:05,600 --> 00:38:08,279 What happens when you are in a situation where your dress is active? 498 00:38:08,280 --> 00:38:10,320 Or in a situation in which his costume does not activate? 499 00:38:12,120 --> 00:38:13,480 So, because of the suit, 500 00:38:13,720 --> 00:38:17,840 You have many more people than you. they would be there if it were not for him. 501 00:38:18,320 --> 00:38:22,120 People, in certain places, they became uncontrollable, therefore. 502 00:38:22,280 --> 00:38:23,800 This is the paradox, of course. 503 00:38:33,440 --> 00:38:36,280 It saved lives, but in a way, 504 00:38:36,360 --> 00:38:38,520 I feel it put at risk lives of people 505 00:38:38,600 --> 00:38:40,920 that they would not be there, without the suit. 506 00:38:43,440 --> 00:38:45,720 Are you going surfing in? Any place in the world, 507 00:38:45,800 --> 00:38:47,799 must have a safety plan and a second reservation, 508 00:38:47,800 --> 00:38:49,104 and another plan after that. 509 00:38:50,040 --> 00:38:53,120 Most people think that the suit is the safety plan. 510 00:38:53,320 --> 00:38:56,240 And they assume that the I will rescue them. 511 00:38:58,960 --> 00:39:01,560 Certainly it was morally difficult not start, 512 00:39:01,640 --> 00:39:03,161 when it began to get very full. 513 00:39:04,280 --> 00:39:06,240 I could never live knowing 514 00:39:06,320 --> 00:39:08,519 What was I supposed to be? l working with this group, 515 00:39:08,520 --> 00:39:10,000 which I consider my family, 516 00:39:10,080 --> 00:39:13,560 and that something happened because I was not taking care of them, 517 00:39:13,680 --> 00:39:15,280 I was taking care of someone else 518 00:39:15,360 --> 00:39:17,316 that had nothing to do with our operation. 519 00:39:18,920 --> 00:39:21,559 I do not think it's the right of somebody say what can or can not, 520 00:39:21,560 --> 00:39:26,240 but when you cross that line of not following the safety protocol, 521 00:39:26,320 --> 00:39:28,233 how to be able to care first of all, 522 00:39:28,400 --> 00:39:29,878 You kind of crossed the line. 523 00:39:29,880 --> 00:39:32,760 and need to rethink about what he's doing there. 524 00:39:34,400 --> 00:39:36,640 If you look at the inflatable costume, 525 00:39:37,000 --> 00:39:40,680 yes, it's a nightmare, on certain days, in certain waves ... 526 00:39:41,560 --> 00:39:45,640 but the sport simply became incredible because of it. 527 00:39:55,760 --> 00:39:59,120 In the fifteenth, we had a sea which was expected to be 528 00:39:59,200 --> 00:40:01,679 bigger than anything which we had all winter, 529 00:40:01,680 --> 00:40:03,200 maybe in my life. 530 00:40:04,880 --> 00:40:09,280 So, you're lining up to be a monumental day for the paddled surf. 531 00:40:09,360 --> 00:40:13,160 Prediction 5.5m in 18.2 seconds Estimated Frontal Height: 22.5m 532 00:40:13,440 --> 00:40:14,760 Beautiful setting. 533 00:40:14,840 --> 00:40:17,720 15th of January 534 00:40:18,040 --> 00:40:20,280 Bring towing boards was part of the discussion, 535 00:40:20,360 --> 00:40:24,320 but I'm stubbornly trying to row. 536 00:40:24,400 --> 00:40:26,199 I think we are all a little scared, 537 00:40:26,200 --> 00:40:29,320 it's kind of worried with how great it will be today, 538 00:40:29,400 --> 00:40:31,660 but we hope it is, in some way, controllable. 539 00:40:34,760 --> 00:40:36,368 In fact, I'm very nervous now 540 00:40:36,440 --> 00:40:37,740 for having to surf there. 541 00:40:37,760 --> 00:40:40,040 I do not know, I have this strange feeling. 542 00:40:41,320 --> 00:40:44,000 Certainly shaken. No one day to show feelings ... 543 00:40:45,280 --> 00:40:47,062 I'm a little out of control, certainly. 544 00:40:47,720 --> 00:40:49,600 Greg was basically sick all the time. 545 00:40:49,720 --> 00:40:52,560 He could not surf. Therefore, Greg ended up doing the security. 546 00:40:53,440 --> 00:40:56,160 It's very difficult to do well. on a day like this. 547 00:40:56,400 --> 00:40:59,800 You know how much you waited for a day like this, 548 00:40:59,880 --> 00:41:01,180 to get surf. 549 00:41:03,040 --> 00:41:06,720 Everything we look for, dropping big waves, 550 00:41:06,800 --> 00:41:08,147 was pointing to this day. 551 00:41:10,800 --> 00:41:13,720 I had never seen Jaws burst that way in my life. 552 00:41:14,600 --> 00:41:16,200 Two hours, we're leaving. 553 00:41:17,000 --> 00:41:18,300 Watch. 554 00:41:28,480 --> 00:41:32,840 As if you were rehearsing to get the rhythm, 555 00:41:32,920 --> 00:41:35,240 because the wave moves very fast 556 00:41:35,320 --> 00:41:37,640 and there is a lot of water hitting his face. 557 00:41:39,000 --> 00:41:42,440 A perfect example of: "Be careful what you want". 558 00:41:59,560 --> 00:42:00,860 Heating! 559 00:42:33,040 --> 00:42:34,340 Shane, come on up! 560 00:42:34,360 --> 00:42:35,660 Shane. 561 00:42:36,200 --> 00:42:39,680 Yes, Shane. It was amazing. 562 00:44:04,640 --> 00:44:06,360 You caught an incredible wave, did not you? 563 00:44:08,440 --> 00:44:11,320 It just felt as if the ocean was under control. 564 00:44:14,000 --> 00:44:15,719 It was not like a normal day, where you can 565 00:44:15,720 --> 00:44:17,920 have fun, like, everyone was ... 566 00:44:39,080 --> 00:44:40,319 Come on, come on. 567 00:44:40,320 --> 00:44:41,479 Come on, come on. 568 00:44:41,480 --> 00:44:42,780 Are you okay? -My neck. 569 00:44:42,880 --> 00:44:44,180 "What?" -My neck. 570 00:44:44,840 --> 00:44:46,140 Here Shaun Walsh. 571 00:44:46,440 --> 00:44:48,440 DK has a possible injury in the cervical area. 572 00:44:49,600 --> 00:44:51,730 I'm tingling a lot and my neck is sore. 573 00:44:52,680 --> 00:44:54,000 Take me with Shaun. 574 00:44:57,120 --> 00:44:59,320 I could look into everyone's eyes, 575 00:44:59,400 --> 00:45:02,680 and say, "My God, that was what happened in Cortes ". 576 00:45:03,200 --> 00:45:05,520 It was the reverse situation. 577 00:45:05,960 --> 00:45:07,655 DK was l , he saved Greg's life, 578 00:45:07,840 --> 00:45:09,560 and now, Greg is doing what he can. 579 00:45:11,840 --> 00:45:13,319 It was just kind of surreal. 580 00:45:13,320 --> 00:45:15,360 Like, my heart sank, you know? 581 00:45:15,480 --> 00:45:18,001 I did not know how serious it was, or what was happening. 582 00:45:19,120 --> 00:45:21,040 DK, do you want to call the emergency? 583 00:45:21,120 --> 00:45:22,560 I need an ambulance. 584 00:45:22,760 --> 00:45:24,060 Do not call Mom. 585 00:45:25,560 --> 00:45:28,800 No matter how good the waves are, This is the priority, it does not matter. 586 00:45:29,040 --> 00:45:30,960 We took it with great security. 587 00:45:31,280 --> 00:45:35,360 The goal is to simply take it to a higher level of care. 588 00:45:35,800 --> 00:45:38,560 When it happens, There is not much we can do. 589 00:45:39,000 --> 00:45:41,320 Shaun, he and Luke, everybody trying to go with me, 590 00:45:41,400 --> 00:45:44,182 but looking at how good the waves were, wanted them to stay. 591 00:45:44,200 --> 00:45:46,640 Once in life the conditions of the sea stay like this. 592 00:45:52,160 --> 00:45:54,640 We stayed out and this has turned into 593 00:45:54,840 --> 00:45:57,520 a very important day of my life. 594 00:46:35,480 --> 00:46:38,080 I just took a wave in the face. 595 00:46:38,160 --> 00:46:40,480 and I got no advantage for a while. 596 00:46:57,160 --> 00:46:58,680 I saw him enter this wave, 597 00:46:58,760 --> 00:47:01,455 and well when I saw him stand by, I thought, "He's in too much." 598 00:47:01,520 --> 00:47:05,280 And, you know, when you're there, Sometimes you have to take the risk. 599 00:47:32,200 --> 00:47:35,160 And he was from p all the time in which the wave descended. 600 00:47:35,280 --> 00:47:36,800 I thought he was going to jump. 601 00:48:15,800 --> 00:48:18,119 You know what happened, and some of the surfer here today, 602 00:48:18,120 --> 00:48:20,240 You know, history was made, certainly. 603 00:48:21,720 --> 00:48:25,040 Yes, today was amazing, but as soon as I caught that wave, 604 00:48:25,160 --> 00:48:27,840 reality hit and all that I could think, it was in DK. 605 00:48:46,200 --> 00:48:48,560 Nothing was broken, nothing fractured. 606 00:48:48,640 --> 00:48:50,880 All exams and resonances were good. 607 00:48:51,480 --> 00:48:54,200 Now, for the next one, I have to wear this cervical collar, 608 00:48:55,320 --> 00:49:00,040 It's kind of a lie for a while. and wait for my body to recover. 609 00:49:05,600 --> 00:49:07,760 It has been an intense January. 610 00:49:08,240 --> 00:49:12,760 A week ago, we had one of the biggest days I've ever seen 611 00:49:12,840 --> 00:49:15,480 with clean winds, in my whole life here. 612 00:49:15,880 --> 00:49:19,280 I just felt that I never we will see all that 613 00:49:19,360 --> 00:49:20,660 happen again, 614 00:49:20,680 --> 00:49:23,400 until we get really old, cheering on a cliff. 615 00:49:24,440 --> 00:49:28,240 And so, a great system appeared in the middle of the Pacific, 616 00:49:28,320 --> 00:49:29,960 and here we are. 617 00:49:30,040 --> 00:49:31,440 JANUARY 28 618 00:49:31,920 --> 00:49:33,199 4.5m forecast in 20 seconds Estimated Front Height: 20m 619 00:49:33,200 --> 00:49:35,800 Just have another chance with conditions like this 620 00:49:35,880 --> 00:49:41,440 ... kind of made me take a step behind and to value a little more 621 00:49:41,520 --> 00:49:43,400 by the seas we are having now. 622 00:49:45,520 --> 00:49:48,389 I thought my winter had finished after leaving the hospital, 623 00:49:48,400 --> 00:49:50,560 Then I was discharged of doctors in Los Angeles. 624 00:49:50,640 --> 00:49:52,161 He said that everything was in place. 625 00:49:52,280 --> 00:49:55,160 I'm very grateful. I never thought that this would happen. 626 00:49:56,960 --> 00:50:00,720 And it was horrible for him not to be able to surf, but he , without any doubts, 627 00:50:00,800 --> 00:50:03,000 the best face on the jet ski, doing the security. 628 00:50:03,120 --> 00:50:06,760 So I think of everything, the group feels much more comfortable and confident, 629 00:50:06,840 --> 00:50:08,360 just by having it in the water. 630 00:50:08,640 --> 00:50:10,320 Right, it's Greg. 631 00:50:26,960 --> 00:50:29,090 Pay attention to Greg, boys. Pay attention. 632 00:50:29,120 --> 00:50:30,420 I caught him. 633 00:50:31,600 --> 00:50:32,900 Vit ria. 634 00:50:33,480 --> 00:50:37,360 In this sport, you will definitely wants to see his friends do well. 635 00:50:37,480 --> 00:50:39,520 For Greg, he caught a wave A few years ago ... 636 00:50:39,600 --> 00:50:40,519 October 2012 637 00:50:40,520 --> 00:50:43,080 ... which was the best tube I already got Jaws. 638 00:50:47,920 --> 00:50:51,760 And as he crossed, he fell, flying out of the tube. 639 00:50:56,000 --> 00:50:58,760 He called it a trip. on the finish line. 640 00:51:00,760 --> 00:51:02,720 You simply see how much time and energy 641 00:51:02,800 --> 00:51:05,320 goes in each of these waves they are surfing 642 00:51:05,440 --> 00:51:08,720 and how long does it take to get a day like this, 643 00:51:08,920 --> 00:51:12,360 and it was really cool to see everything working for Greg today. 644 00:51:29,880 --> 00:51:33,360 He took a tube and left. You could almost see 645 00:51:33,480 --> 00:51:36,960 all energy and work who were employed in that wave, 646 00:51:37,040 --> 00:51:38,400 kind, coming out of it. 647 00:51:38,560 --> 00:51:39,860 Good, Greg! 648 00:51:41,720 --> 00:51:44,040 We have Dorian surfing. 649 00:52:18,240 --> 00:52:19,920 Part of what Jaws , type, 650 00:52:20,160 --> 00:52:22,640 You surf for six hours, 651 00:52:22,840 --> 00:52:25,520 you can have only one good opportunity on a wave. 652 00:52:42,840 --> 00:52:47,600 About four hours later, I got one of the best waves I've had. 653 00:53:51,240 --> 00:53:53,040 Everything finally fell into place. 654 00:53:53,240 --> 00:53:57,560 Instead of focusing on the goal to surf the biggest wave of his life, 655 00:53:57,920 --> 00:54:00,000 it is more about giving one step back 656 00:54:00,080 --> 00:54:01,800 and enjoy all the little things 657 00:54:02,000 --> 00:54:03,720 who took you there, and live these days. 658 00:54:05,880 --> 00:54:08,160 The last El Ni o was in 1998. 659 00:54:08,680 --> 00:54:11,280 There were only four El Ni os for real, in 40 years. 660 00:54:12,040 --> 00:54:13,880 The best big waves I've ever seen. 661 00:54:14,000 --> 00:54:16,680 I have surfed big waves It's 25 years. 662 00:54:19,840 --> 00:54:23,840 Ian chose a path that really serves it. 663 00:54:24,040 --> 00:54:27,680 I'm just blessed as a father. 664 00:54:34,280 --> 00:54:38,760 Part of surfing simply Look at what comes next. 665 00:54:40,680 --> 00:54:41,980 It's true what they say. 666 00:54:42,040 --> 00:54:45,200 The greater the adversity, the greater the conquest. 667 00:54:45,520 --> 00:54:48,720 And for me, it does not matter the size of the waves, 668 00:54:48,880 --> 00:54:50,640 or stepping into the unknown, 669 00:54:51,000 --> 00:54:52,300 Where do I want to be? 53225

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