Would you like to inspect the original subtitles? These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated:
1
00:00:11,093 --> 00:00:14,768
NARRATOR: By the time the Ganges
reaches the last stage of her journey
2
00:00:14,853 --> 00:00:17,651
across the great plains of Bengal,
3
00:00:17,733 --> 00:00:21,885
she is a mighty river,
over five miles across.
4
00:00:25,493 --> 00:00:29,884
But now, over 1,200 miles
from her birthplace in the Himalaya,
5
00:00:29,973 --> 00:00:32,885
the great river begins to break apart.
6
00:00:35,773 --> 00:00:39,243
The sacred waters complete
their journey to the sea
7
00:00:39,333 --> 00:00:41,927
through the many channels of the delta,
8
00:00:42,813 --> 00:00:48,445
a magical place where the boundaries
between land and water are blurred.
9
00:00:53,453 --> 00:00:57,890
The delta, shared between the countries
of India and Bangladesh,
10
00:00:57,973 --> 00:01:02,171
is home to the most densely packed
human population on Earth.
11
00:01:04,173 --> 00:01:08,689
But there is also space here
for some extraordinary wildlife.
12
00:01:12,893 --> 00:01:14,724
Even in the 21 st century,
13
00:01:14,813 --> 00:01:19,841
all living things in the delta
remain at the mercy of the great river.
14
00:01:19,933 --> 00:01:23,562
In just a few months,
her mood swings push the countryside
15
00:01:23,653 --> 00:01:25,803
from near-desert conditions
16
00:01:25,893 --> 00:01:29,169
to the violent storms
and floods of the monsoon.
17
00:01:34,453 --> 00:01:39,971
How do people and animals survive
in this place of such extremes?
18
00:01:48,653 --> 00:01:53,363
Over 100 million people live
along the waterways of the Ganges delta,
19
00:01:54,853 --> 00:01:58,448
yet there is one last
truly wild place here.
20
00:02:00,893 --> 00:02:04,249
Where she meets the sea,
the great river has helped form
21
00:02:04,333 --> 00:02:08,690
one of the planet's greatest
and strangest wildernesses.
22
00:02:11,773 --> 00:02:15,209
The animals
in this unique and forbidding place
23
00:02:15,293 --> 00:02:17,602
are only rarely glimpsed.
24
00:02:27,693 --> 00:02:31,845
The name of this mysterious forest
is the Sunderbans.
25
00:02:32,293 --> 00:02:36,286
It's a place where
the people of the delta fear to tread.
26
00:02:46,093 --> 00:02:51,042
These men have perhaps
the most dangerous job in the world.
27
00:02:51,133 --> 00:02:55,445
They are about to embark on a journey
into the dreaded Sunderbans,
28
00:02:55,533 --> 00:03:00,163
but the only protection they will take
with them is the blessing of their god.
29
00:03:01,333 --> 00:03:04,211
The men are Muslim,
like most Bangladeshis,
30
00:03:04,293 --> 00:03:07,808
so this morning they are praying
to Allah before setting off.
31
00:03:07,893 --> 00:03:09,451
(ALL SINGING)
32
00:03:11,533 --> 00:03:14,889
Their families know
they may not all return.
33
00:03:19,413 --> 00:03:22,052
But these brave men
are going to race each other
34
00:03:22,133 --> 00:03:24,852
to try and reach the forest first.
35
00:03:39,853 --> 00:03:41,684
(GUN FIRES)
36
00:03:45,413 --> 00:03:47,881
It is the beginning
of the collecting season
37
00:03:47,973 --> 00:03:51,682
for one of the Ganges delta's
most precious commodities.
38
00:04:04,093 --> 00:04:07,802
For centuries, men from villages
along the edge of the Sunderbans
39
00:04:07,893 --> 00:04:10,566
have set out on this annual expedition
40
00:04:11,613 --> 00:04:14,889
into the heart of the forest they fear.
41
00:04:20,573 --> 00:04:25,203
The Sunderbans stretches along
the coastline of Bangladesh and India.
42
00:04:25,293 --> 00:04:29,491
It's by far
the largest mangrove forest on Earth,
43
00:04:29,573 --> 00:04:32,485
six times the size of Greater London.
44
00:04:34,573 --> 00:04:37,804
Mangroves,
with their bizarre aerial roots,
45
00:04:37,893 --> 00:04:42,205
are the only trees that can cope
with the salty, waterlogged conditions.
46
00:04:43,293 --> 00:04:46,888
There are over 30 species of mangrove
in the Sunderbans,
47
00:04:46,973 --> 00:04:50,488
and the biggest rely
on one tiny animal to survive.
48
00:04:54,213 --> 00:04:58,843
Giant Asian honeybees feed on the nectar
of the mangrove flowers
49
00:04:58,933 --> 00:05:01,731
and, in the process, pollinate them.
50
00:05:03,453 --> 00:05:06,047
These are the biggest honeybees
in the world,
51
00:05:06,133 --> 00:05:08,283
and also the most aggressive.
52
00:05:10,493 --> 00:05:15,044
They will defend their enormous hive
to the death against any threat.
53
00:05:17,573 --> 00:05:22,647
But the precious honey in those hives
is exactly what the boatman are after.
54
00:05:28,413 --> 00:05:30,688
These men have pushed deep into the maze
55
00:05:30,773 --> 00:05:34,448
of over 400 waterways
that crisscross the forest.
56
00:05:39,533 --> 00:05:43,526
They spread out to search,
calling to keep in touch.
57
00:06:00,293 --> 00:06:04,491
Many people have been killed
by swarms of these bees.
58
00:06:04,573 --> 00:06:08,043
Ten metres is the closest
a man can safely approach.
59
00:06:08,133 --> 00:06:09,885
(MEN SHOUTING)
60
00:06:11,053 --> 00:06:13,726
The threatened bees
are primed to attack,
61
00:06:15,133 --> 00:06:18,569
but the honey collectors
know the chink in their armour.
62
00:06:23,213 --> 00:06:25,090
When the bees smell smoke,
63
00:06:25,173 --> 00:06:28,529
they instinctively behave
as if the forest is on fire.
64
00:06:30,293 --> 00:06:33,012
As far as they're concerned,
the hive is doomed to burn,
65
00:06:33,093 --> 00:06:35,846
and there's no point
in trying to protect it.
66
00:06:39,733 --> 00:06:43,965
With the bees no longer aggressive,
the men can go about their work.
67
00:07:02,573 --> 00:07:06,043
A good hive can contain
up to 20 kilos of honey.
68
00:07:12,733 --> 00:07:14,769
This is liquid gold for these men,
69
00:07:14,853 --> 00:07:19,131
but even though they are poor,
they choose not to take the whole hive.
70
00:07:20,173 --> 00:07:24,007
Wise collectors know that if there is
to be honey here in years to come,
71
00:07:24,093 --> 00:07:26,561
they should leave
a section of the hive behind
72
00:07:26,653 --> 00:07:29,531
so the bees don't have
to rebuild from scratch.
73
00:07:30,893 --> 00:07:33,168
The honey will fetch a high price,
74
00:07:33,253 --> 00:07:36,529
but many men pay
an even higher price for collecting it.
75
00:07:38,813 --> 00:07:40,690
It's not swarms of bees that make this
76
00:07:40,773 --> 00:07:43,526
one of the most dangerous jobs
in the world.
77
00:07:47,213 --> 00:07:48,885
The trails are crisscrossed
78
00:07:48,973 --> 00:07:52,568
with the tracks
of the forest's most infamous residents.
79
00:08:01,373 --> 00:08:03,728
Tigers roam the Sunderbans,
80
00:08:03,813 --> 00:08:07,772
and they have a well-earned reputation
for attacking people.
81
00:08:10,093 --> 00:08:12,209
Honey collectors are especially at risk,
82
00:08:12,293 --> 00:08:14,761
because tigers rest
in the dense vegetation
83
00:08:14,853 --> 00:08:17,242
where the beehives are also found.
84
00:08:18,813 --> 00:08:23,364
Tigers kill up to 100 people
every year in this forest.
85
00:08:26,973 --> 00:08:30,682
Nobody knows
why so many people are killed here.
86
00:08:30,773 --> 00:08:34,686
The tigers are hardly ever seen
and are little understood.
87
00:08:36,893 --> 00:08:40,488
The Sunderbans is unlike
any other tiger habitat.
88
00:08:41,413 --> 00:08:44,007
The biggest prey here, the spotted deer,
89
00:08:44,093 --> 00:08:46,209
is only bite-size for a predator
90
00:08:46,293 --> 00:08:49,444
that needs an average
of five kilos of meat a day.
91
00:08:53,533 --> 00:08:56,525
There's little fresh water here.
92
00:08:56,613 --> 00:09:01,004
Some people think drinking salty water
might make the tigers more aggressive.
93
00:09:03,373 --> 00:09:06,729
How can tigers survive
in these testing conditions?
94
00:09:08,053 --> 00:09:11,125
And can anything be done
to stop the man-eating?
95
00:09:16,013 --> 00:09:19,688
The Sunderbans Tiger Project
is going to try and find out.
96
00:09:23,333 --> 00:09:26,848
This team,
led by British biologist Adam Barlow
97
00:09:26,933 --> 00:09:29,766
and expert tracker Mizan Rahman,
98
00:09:29,853 --> 00:09:33,243
are going to radio-collar a tiger here
for the first time.
99
00:09:37,333 --> 00:09:41,121
They've come deep into the forest
to a temporary fishing village.
100
00:09:48,173 --> 00:09:51,131
The team have heard
an interesting rumour.
101
00:09:54,613 --> 00:09:56,365
Adam gets confirmation
102
00:09:56,453 --> 00:10:00,241
that a tiger was seen a week ago
in the forest nearby.
103
00:10:06,613 --> 00:10:09,127
The team put out bait
and find a good spot
104
00:10:09,213 --> 00:10:11,602
to try and tranquilise the tiger.
105
00:10:17,013 --> 00:10:21,564
Mizan disguises the hide
while Adam prepares for the darting.
106
00:10:23,853 --> 00:10:26,083
It's a nerve-racking prospect.
107
00:10:27,573 --> 00:10:32,010
Nobody knows how a Sunderbans tiger,
with its fearsome reputation,
108
00:10:32,093 --> 00:10:34,129
will react when darted.
109
00:10:35,773 --> 00:10:39,129
The team could be in for
a long and nervous wait.
110
00:10:44,253 --> 00:10:48,690
The Sunderbans is huge, but it's only
a fraction of the whole delta.
111
00:10:55,013 --> 00:10:57,481
In the countryside
surrounding the forest,
112
00:10:57,573 --> 00:11:00,371
humans are definitely
the dominant animal.
113
00:11:02,933 --> 00:11:07,290
And none of these humans lives very far
from the waters of the Ganges.
114
00:11:16,973 --> 00:11:19,407
Mohammed Jaleel is the headman
of a village
115
00:11:19,493 --> 00:11:21,643
near the edge of the Sunderbans
116
00:11:21,733 --> 00:11:25,009
on the banks
of one of the Ganges' many channels.
117
00:11:27,253 --> 00:11:30,689
Like most delta-dwellers,
the people of Mr Jaleel's village
118
00:11:30,773 --> 00:11:33,890
use the river's waters to grow rice.
119
00:11:37,333 --> 00:11:41,451
November, early winter,
is a golden time in the delta,
120
00:11:41,533 --> 00:11:45,572
perfect for planting the first
of the year's three rice crops.
121
00:11:48,493 --> 00:11:51,007
Rice paddies have replaced
the natural wetlands
122
00:11:51,093 --> 00:11:54,290
which once covered much of this region.
123
00:11:54,373 --> 00:11:55,965
But in some places, the animals
124
00:11:56,053 --> 00:11:58,886
that used to live
in those wetlands still thrive
125
00:11:58,973 --> 00:12:01,965
because the farmers recognise
their value.
126
00:12:03,693 --> 00:12:06,924
Frogs help control
the insect population.
127
00:12:08,373 --> 00:12:12,810
And giant apple snails eat the algae
that can smother a field.
128
00:12:14,653 --> 00:12:17,121
Farmers who use
this natural pest control
129
00:12:17,213 --> 00:12:20,444
don't have to use
many chemicals in their fields.
130
00:12:21,813 --> 00:12:24,930
Each paddy field is an entire ecosystem.
131
00:12:25,813 --> 00:12:29,601
And there's always a predator
at the top of every food chain.
132
00:12:31,573 --> 00:12:35,043
Open-billed storks hunt
in the rice paddies.
133
00:12:38,773 --> 00:12:43,563
A healthy population of storks
is a sign of healthy fields.
134
00:12:43,653 --> 00:12:48,329
Perhaps for this reason, many Hindus,
mostly on the Indian side of the delta,
135
00:12:48,413 --> 00:12:51,052
see the storks as a sign of good luck.
136
00:12:52,933 --> 00:12:57,563
When the breeding season approaches,
the storks gather nesting material.
137
00:13:05,893 --> 00:13:10,683
The birds nest
in huge colonies of up to 10,000.
138
00:13:19,133 --> 00:13:20,964
The noise can be deafening,
139
00:13:21,053 --> 00:13:24,284
and some colonies are
right in the middle of villages.
140
00:13:27,613 --> 00:13:29,922
The good luck
the birds are thought to bring
141
00:13:30,013 --> 00:13:34,086
means that the local residents
are happy to put up with the din.
142
00:13:39,533 --> 00:13:44,288
Many of the people in the delta still
retain a close connection with nature.
143
00:13:49,253 --> 00:13:53,531
And these fishermen have perhaps
the most intimate connection of all.
144
00:13:56,053 --> 00:14:00,046
This morning, they're looking for a clue
to help them find the best catch.
145
00:14:03,333 --> 00:14:06,370
Find the river dolphins
and you've found the fish.
146
00:14:09,493 --> 00:14:10,926
But to catch the fish,
147
00:14:11,013 --> 00:14:14,164
the men will enlist the help
of another animal,
148
00:14:14,253 --> 00:14:17,609
one of the most endearing
and intelligent in the delta.
149
00:14:19,333 --> 00:14:22,450
Otters have been bred
in captivity for generations
150
00:14:22,533 --> 00:14:25,252
and trained
to help fill the fishing nets.
151
00:14:49,773 --> 00:14:52,765
The men position the boat
near the riverbank.
152
00:14:54,333 --> 00:14:56,972
Their otters's harnesses
are attached to poles
153
00:14:57,053 --> 00:14:59,328
which they control with their feet.
154
00:15:06,533 --> 00:15:09,366
When everything's ready,
the otters are allowed to dive
155
00:15:09,453 --> 00:15:12,411
and chase the fish
out of their hiding places.
156
00:15:26,333 --> 00:15:29,848
The boat is manoeuvred towards the bank,
trapping the fish.
157
00:15:35,693 --> 00:15:40,005
In a morning's work, the men can catch
all the fish the boat can carry.
158
00:15:46,613 --> 00:15:49,173
The otters get
a constant supply of titbits,
159
00:15:49,253 --> 00:15:51,813
but not enough yet
to fill their bellies.
160
00:16:04,773 --> 00:16:07,685
Otters hunt best when they're hungry,
161
00:16:09,173 --> 00:16:11,209
but it takes expert net handling
162
00:16:11,293 --> 00:16:14,012
to stop them taking
too much of the catch.
163
00:16:17,853 --> 00:16:21,926
Only when the fishermen have finished
do the otters get their reward.
164
00:16:33,293 --> 00:16:36,922
Even if the catch is poor,
the otters are still well-fed.
165
00:16:41,933 --> 00:16:45,005
And the baby otters
are well looked after, too.
166
00:16:45,733 --> 00:16:49,009
The fishermen breed their animals
with otters from other villages
167
00:16:49,093 --> 00:16:51,448
to prevent inbreeding.
168
00:16:51,533 --> 00:16:56,926
A good young otter can cost $100,
a fortune for these men.
169
00:16:57,013 --> 00:17:01,165
But when you make your living
from the waters, it's money well spent.
170
00:17:04,613 --> 00:17:08,731
All the people of the delta
rely on the Ganges waters,
171
00:17:08,813 --> 00:17:11,964
but the wise old heads,
like Mohammed Jaleel,
172
00:17:12,053 --> 00:17:14,886
know the good times won't last for ever.
173
00:17:20,373 --> 00:17:23,604
Fifty miles away,
in the Sunderbans forest,
174
00:17:23,733 --> 00:17:25,963
night is falling.
175
00:17:31,493 --> 00:17:35,645
It's been a long stakeout,
but the tiger team are in luck.
176
00:17:36,533 --> 00:17:41,004
After a week-long wait,
a female tiger has come to their bait.
177
00:17:47,813 --> 00:17:51,010
Hungry tigers are not above
eating rotten meat.
178
00:17:56,533 --> 00:17:58,330
(GUN FIRES)
179
00:18:01,373 --> 00:18:04,604
The team have to move fast
to find the tigress.
180
00:18:10,013 --> 00:18:12,322
Night falls quickly in the tropics,
181
00:18:12,413 --> 00:18:16,565
and they can't be 100% sure that
the tranquiliser dart has done its job.
182
00:18:18,653 --> 00:18:20,769
Somewhere in the blackness is a tiger
183
00:18:20,853 --> 00:18:24,402
that may or may not be
on the verge of unconsciousness.
184
00:18:33,693 --> 00:18:37,606
They can see the tigress,
but is she on her way down?
185
00:18:38,173 --> 00:18:39,891
It's a tense moment.
186
00:18:50,253 --> 00:18:53,290
When they're satisfied
that the tigress is fully sedated,
187
00:18:53,373 --> 00:18:55,443
the team have to work fast.
188
00:19:03,173 --> 00:19:06,165
While unconscious,
she can't regulate her body temperature,
189
00:19:06,253 --> 00:19:10,292
so the team rub her with spirit
and fan her to keep her cool.
190
00:19:15,653 --> 00:19:20,647
The collar weighs just one kilogram,
about 1% of the tigress' bodyweight.
191
00:19:21,453 --> 00:19:25,810
Studies have shown that it will have
no effect on her hunting success.
192
00:19:47,373 --> 00:19:50,683
Every detail about the tigress
is recorded.
193
00:19:56,453 --> 00:20:00,082
She's quite elderly, about 12 years old.
194
00:20:00,173 --> 00:20:03,643
Her teeth are worn
and one canine is missing.
195
00:20:06,613 --> 00:20:08,444
The team have just a few months
196
00:20:08,533 --> 00:20:10,967
before the collar
automatically falls off,
197
00:20:11,053 --> 00:20:13,647
to learn all that they can
about this tigress.
198
00:20:13,733 --> 00:20:18,045
Where she goes, what she eats
and whether she encounters people.
199
00:20:21,493 --> 00:20:24,166
Tigers constantly patrol a territory,
200
00:20:24,253 --> 00:20:27,768
making sure there are no rival tigers
on their turf.
201
00:20:27,853 --> 00:20:29,571
So Adam and Mizan know
202
00:20:29,653 --> 00:20:33,487
they'll have to be on the move
constantly to track their tigress.
203
00:20:41,933 --> 00:20:45,642
But these waterways are not
a reliable means of getting around.
204
00:20:47,133 --> 00:20:49,601
The creeks consist partly of seawater
205
00:20:49,693 --> 00:20:53,242
so they're under the influence
of the tides.
206
00:20:53,333 --> 00:20:57,246
The mangroves' roots anchor the trees
against the tidal pull.
207
00:20:59,893 --> 00:21:03,408
It's a constantly changing environment,
208
00:21:03,493 --> 00:21:06,610
but some animals are adapted
to exploit it.
209
00:21:30,493 --> 00:21:33,644
Strange creatures
emerge from the burrows
210
00:21:33,733 --> 00:21:37,442
where they've sheltered
from the strong tidal currents.
211
00:21:44,413 --> 00:21:49,168
Mudskippers are fish with specially
adapted fins enabling them to walk.
212
00:21:55,013 --> 00:21:58,892
They feed on detritus
left behind by the falling waters.
213
00:22:11,133 --> 00:22:13,044
Fish need water to breathe,
214
00:22:13,133 --> 00:22:17,570
so the mudskippers carry a constant
supply in special gill pouches
215
00:22:17,653 --> 00:22:20,247
which they have to top up
from time to time.
216
00:22:25,533 --> 00:22:30,004
Mudskippers are not the only animals
to take advantage of the mudflat buffet.
217
00:22:36,053 --> 00:22:39,409
Fiddler crabs sift food particles
from the mud,
218
00:22:39,493 --> 00:22:42,565
leaving behind neat balls of leftovers.
219
00:22:45,093 --> 00:22:47,084
The male crabs have one huge claw
220
00:22:47,173 --> 00:22:50,404
to impress females
and see off other males.
221
00:22:51,493 --> 00:22:56,169
Mudskippers try the same trick
with their brightly-coloured fins.
222
00:22:56,253 --> 00:23:00,371
But sometimes intimidation
is not enough to scare off rivals.
223
00:23:07,773 --> 00:23:10,287
Arguments can get very heated.
224
00:23:22,773 --> 00:23:26,732
But the mudskippers lack the weaponry
to do each other much damage.
225
00:23:28,053 --> 00:23:31,363
And besides,
disputes can never last very long.
226
00:23:32,413 --> 00:23:36,884
With every rising tide, the mudskippers
are obliged to return to their burrows
227
00:23:36,973 --> 00:23:39,328
or risk being swept away.
228
00:23:45,293 --> 00:23:47,363
The height of the tide is determined
229
00:23:47,453 --> 00:23:49,921
by the height of the river
as well as the sea.
230
00:23:50,013 --> 00:23:53,801
And as the year goes on,
the river level starts to drop.
231
00:23:59,133 --> 00:24:01,806
The delta is entering the dry season.
232
00:24:05,893 --> 00:24:09,249
It's April
and no rain has fallen since October.
233
00:24:12,613 --> 00:24:17,243
Outside the Sunderbans, the farmland
has turned from green to brown.
234
00:24:20,893 --> 00:24:23,851
The main channels of the river
are still flowing,
235
00:24:23,933 --> 00:24:26,731
but now it's a long way down.
236
00:24:34,253 --> 00:24:38,769
The water level had dropped six metres
in as many months.
237
00:24:47,013 --> 00:24:50,688
The exposed riverbanks
create nesting sites for birds,
238
00:24:50,773 --> 00:24:52,889
like these bank mynahs.
239
00:25:08,093 --> 00:25:10,129
The river's flow is so weak
240
00:25:10,213 --> 00:25:13,205
that boats can be pulled
against the current.
241
00:25:15,933 --> 00:25:17,730
In the fields, the farmers harvest
242
00:25:17,813 --> 00:25:20,646
the last of their dry season
crop of rice.
243
00:25:26,773 --> 00:25:31,324
Pied starlings feast on insects
disturbed by the harvesting.
244
00:25:35,413 --> 00:25:38,723
But most animals have buried themselves
deep underground,
245
00:25:38,813 --> 00:25:41,407
or left the bone-dry fields entirely.
246
00:25:44,973 --> 00:25:49,091
This is a hard time for Mohammed Jaleel
and his fellow villagers.
247
00:25:50,733 --> 00:25:54,692
They continue to tend their fields,
but the land is parched.
248
00:26:07,493 --> 00:26:11,202
The people of the village earn
some money in these lean times
249
00:26:11,293 --> 00:26:14,569
by digging for sand
for the construction industry.
250
00:26:32,733 --> 00:26:35,884
They are digging
in the bed of the river itself.
251
00:26:40,133 --> 00:26:44,365
Many channels in the delta region
disappear completely in the dry season
252
00:26:44,453 --> 00:26:47,331
because the people upstream
remove so much water
253
00:26:47,413 --> 00:26:49,881
for drinking and irrigation.
254
00:26:49,973 --> 00:26:53,886
It's the people of the delta who bear
the brunt of the thirst for water
255
00:26:53,973 --> 00:26:55,725
all along the river.
256
00:27:21,493 --> 00:27:26,283
Even the main channel of the great river
flows only in its deepest parts.
257
00:27:27,413 --> 00:27:31,486
The bed of the mighty Ganges
has become a dust bowl.
258
00:27:39,213 --> 00:27:43,729
Little fresh water now reaches the
forest where the tigress was collared.
259
00:27:43,813 --> 00:27:47,408
But the temporary fishing village here
is a hive of activity.
260
00:27:52,453 --> 00:27:55,968
This village is only occupied
when it's hot and sunny.
261
00:27:56,053 --> 00:27:58,009
Perfect for drying fish.
262
00:28:06,013 --> 00:28:09,767
The seas near the Sunderbans have
always been rich fishing grounds,
263
00:28:09,853 --> 00:28:14,085
though these days, intense fishing
is stretching them to their limit.
264
00:28:19,373 --> 00:28:21,409
The need for workers is so great
265
00:28:21,493 --> 00:28:25,486
that boys as young as eight
are hired to sort the catch.
266
00:28:26,973 --> 00:28:32,286
The stench from the village attracts
wildlife from the surrounding forest.
267
00:28:32,373 --> 00:28:36,207
Wild boar sneak in
to snack on the drying fish.
268
00:28:46,933 --> 00:28:50,926
It's such a busy time.
The villagers work around the clock.
269
00:28:57,373 --> 00:29:02,527
And night-time is also when the collared
tigress has been the most active.
270
00:29:06,813 --> 00:29:08,451
In the pitch dark,
271
00:29:08,533 --> 00:29:12,128
the fishermen are collecting fresh water
at the village edge.
272
00:29:12,213 --> 00:29:13,771
With their weak torch,
273
00:29:13,853 --> 00:29:17,004
they can't see anything
in the forest around them.
274
00:29:21,613 --> 00:29:26,641
Adam and Mizan have tracked the tigress
closer and closer to the village.
275
00:29:47,813 --> 00:29:50,566
In this dry season,
the fishermen aren't the only ones
276
00:29:50,653 --> 00:29:53,042
making use of their waterhole.
277
00:29:55,053 --> 00:29:59,285
The team can only see the tigress
with infrared spotting scopes.
278
00:30:00,293 --> 00:30:03,729
Her night vision is many times better
than theirs.
279
00:30:08,053 --> 00:30:12,365
She's had nothing but salty water
to drink for weeks before tonight.
280
00:30:14,053 --> 00:30:17,648
Has that made her lose
her natural wariness of people?
281
00:30:21,453 --> 00:30:25,162
After drinking,
the tigress heads towards the village
282
00:30:25,253 --> 00:30:29,007
where the men and boys
are still outside working.
283
00:30:30,653 --> 00:30:33,804
In the blackness,
they can't see her approaching.
284
00:30:36,533 --> 00:30:38,330
But she can see them.
285
00:30:44,373 --> 00:30:46,364
It seems she's on patrol.
286
00:30:46,453 --> 00:30:51,129
Not hunting, but someone could trigger
her predatory instincts.
287
00:30:53,333 --> 00:30:56,245
Tigers usually attack people
who are bending over,
288
00:30:56,333 --> 00:30:58,483
presenting a smaller target.
289
00:31:00,413 --> 00:31:03,689
It is pure luck that nobody is killed.
290
00:31:13,453 --> 00:31:15,887
The following morning reveals
just how close
291
00:31:15,973 --> 00:31:18,612
the tigress came to the village huts.
292
00:31:19,573 --> 00:31:21,052
But for the time being,
293
00:31:21,133 --> 00:31:24,842
the tiger team don't have to worry
about the fishermen's safety.
294
00:31:31,213 --> 00:31:34,489
The men are leaving,
not because of the tigress.
295
00:31:34,573 --> 00:31:37,451
They are leaving
because the weather is changing.
296
00:31:41,573 --> 00:31:45,327
The men head off to their home villages
outside the forest.
297
00:31:46,333 --> 00:31:49,450
Brahminy kites move in
to claim the scraps.
298
00:32:24,093 --> 00:32:25,731
With the village deserted,
299
00:32:25,813 --> 00:32:30,364
the tigress now patrols
this part of her territory in daylight.
300
00:32:36,013 --> 00:32:38,322
The winds strengthen every day
301
00:32:38,413 --> 00:32:42,406
as the hot air above the baking land
rises into the atmosphere,
302
00:32:42,493 --> 00:32:45,291
sucking in moist air
from over the ocean.
303
00:32:51,173 --> 00:32:53,562
This is the start of the monsoon.
304
00:33:00,173 --> 00:33:02,846
The next few months
bring torrential rain
305
00:33:02,933 --> 00:33:05,766
all across the north
of the subcontinent.
306
00:33:29,813 --> 00:33:34,170
And all of this rainwater ends up
in the rivers of the delta.
307
00:33:38,973 --> 00:33:40,326
In just a few days,
308
00:33:40,413 --> 00:33:44,088
the flow of the Ganges here
can increase 100 fold
309
00:33:44,173 --> 00:33:48,724
till it's more than the flow of all
the rivers of Western Europe combined.
310
00:33:52,493 --> 00:33:56,202
In places,
water levels can rise by eight metres,
311
00:33:56,293 --> 00:33:59,285
transforming the landscape
into a waterscape.
312
00:34:18,173 --> 00:34:21,882
For most people here,
floods are simply a fact of life.
313
00:34:26,053 --> 00:34:28,726
But the rising waters do bring dangers.
314
00:34:34,933 --> 00:34:39,484
Cobras and other poisonous snakes
are driven from their hiding holes.
315
00:34:39,573 --> 00:34:43,612
They now swim through the paddy fields
looking for dry land,
316
00:34:47,013 --> 00:34:52,212
just as the wet season crop of rice
is being planted in Mr Jaleel's village.
317
00:34:57,053 --> 00:35:01,524
Several thousand people are killed
by snakebite every year in the delta.
318
00:35:01,613 --> 00:35:04,889
Most of them
during the three months of the monsoon.
319
00:35:36,053 --> 00:35:39,807
The snake is just looking
for somewhere to make a new home.
320
00:35:43,413 --> 00:35:46,849
And the river is threatening
the villagers' homes, too.
321
00:35:48,013 --> 00:35:51,005
The rising waters
are undercutting the banks.
322
00:36:03,413 --> 00:36:07,850
A month ago, Mohammed Jaleel's village
was 100 metres from the river.
323
00:36:07,933 --> 00:36:12,131
Now he and his fellow villagers
must move their houses quickly
324
00:36:12,213 --> 00:36:14,283
before they're washed away.
325
00:36:26,253 --> 00:36:29,928
Erosion can begin suddenly
and without warning.
326
00:36:33,133 --> 00:36:36,808
Everybody must be ready to move
at a moment's notice.
327
00:36:52,493 --> 00:36:57,408
Hundreds of metres of riverbank land can
disappear in a single monsoon season.
328
00:37:22,573 --> 00:37:26,407
The whole of Mohammed Jaleel's village
must wait out the wet season
329
00:37:26,493 --> 00:37:30,168
in temporary homes
on the only available dry land,
330
00:37:30,893 --> 00:37:32,611
along the roadside.
331
00:37:38,693 --> 00:37:42,288
The monsoon is battering
the Sunderbans, too.
332
00:37:42,373 --> 00:37:45,445
Huge storms sweep up
from the Bay of Bengal
333
00:37:45,533 --> 00:37:47,364
and hammer the forest.
334
00:38:26,373 --> 00:38:30,844
There are breaks in the rain,
but there is no escape from the flood.
335
00:38:30,933 --> 00:38:32,605
The river is so swollen
336
00:38:32,693 --> 00:38:36,652
that the forest is completely inundated
when the tide comes in.
337
00:38:38,253 --> 00:38:41,928
Nowadays, rising sea levels
caused by climate change
338
00:38:42,013 --> 00:38:45,892
are causing the highest monsoon tides
to be even higher,
339
00:38:45,973 --> 00:38:49,124
squeezing the wildlife
into ever smaller spaces.
340
00:38:52,453 --> 00:38:56,526
The deer must seek out
the few small areas of higher ground.
341
00:38:58,933 --> 00:39:02,972
Many gather on the beach
near the deserted fishing village.
342
00:39:09,493 --> 00:39:12,690
But the tigress is also
keeping herself dry here.
343
00:39:23,253 --> 00:39:27,292
The deer would rather get their feet wet
than become cat food.
344
00:39:38,773 --> 00:39:41,333
The monsoon can be a punishing time,
345
00:39:41,413 --> 00:39:45,122
but the people and animals of the delta
need to be patient,
346
00:39:45,213 --> 00:39:50,003
because when the flood waters recede,
they leave behind a precious gift.
347
00:39:51,053 --> 00:39:55,569
The whole of the Bengal plain
is made entirely of mud,
348
00:39:55,653 --> 00:39:58,167
in places, over a mile deep,
349
00:39:58,253 --> 00:40:02,929
brought down over millions of years
by the Ganges and its tributaries.
350
00:40:04,653 --> 00:40:07,725
This huge plain is the size
of Great Britain,
351
00:40:07,813 --> 00:40:10,486
but it supports
five times as many people
352
00:40:10,573 --> 00:40:12,450
because of the extraordinary richness
353
00:40:12,533 --> 00:40:16,208
brought to fisheries and fields
by the river's mud.
354
00:40:32,773 --> 00:40:37,642
Even in 21 st century India, one of
the world's fastest-growing economies,
355
00:40:37,733 --> 00:40:41,123
the life-giving river is still revered
as a goddess
356
00:40:41,213 --> 00:40:43,852
and worshipped in 100 festivals.
357
00:40:49,693 --> 00:40:51,809
She is a capricious goddess.
358
00:40:51,893 --> 00:40:55,932
The soft mud is easily cut through
by the river.
359
00:40:56,013 --> 00:41:00,450
Thousands of people lose their houses
to riverbank erosion every year.
360
00:41:22,293 --> 00:41:26,081
But even for the people made homeless,
like Mohammed Jaleel,
361
00:41:26,173 --> 00:41:28,129
there is a ray of hope.
362
00:41:31,413 --> 00:41:35,452
The Ganges gives as well as taking away.
363
00:41:35,533 --> 00:41:39,765
Wherever the river is cutting away mud
on one side of its channel,
364
00:41:39,853 --> 00:41:42,242
it is depositing it on the other.
365
00:41:43,453 --> 00:41:46,923
Little by little,
the mud forms either new river bank,
366
00:41:47,013 --> 00:41:49,208
or even little river islands.
367
00:41:51,333 --> 00:41:53,722
Over the years, the islands grow.
368
00:41:56,613 --> 00:41:59,764
And in time,
they can be settled and cultivated.
369
00:42:03,453 --> 00:42:04,932
People who have lost their land
370
00:42:05,013 --> 00:42:08,801
will take advantage of any new farmland
that becomes available,
371
00:42:08,893 --> 00:42:10,645
no matter how small.
372
00:42:19,493 --> 00:42:23,645
The rivers that feed the Ganges
carry twice as much mud as the Amazon
373
00:42:23,733 --> 00:42:25,849
to the delta every year.
374
00:42:25,933 --> 00:42:30,643
The mud can be seen billowing out to sea
for over 100 miles.
375
00:42:34,293 --> 00:42:38,445
In the Sunderbans, the mangrove roots
trap and hold the mud.
376
00:42:42,693 --> 00:42:47,005
This is a much more productive place
than it might appear at first sight.
377
00:42:54,373 --> 00:42:56,807
Over 300 species of birds,
378
00:42:56,893 --> 00:43:01,683
including Lesser adjutant storks
and Indian pond herons,
379
00:43:01,773 --> 00:43:04,526
exploit the richness of the mud flats.
380
00:43:07,253 --> 00:43:11,166
And nine species of kingfishers
fish in these creeks.
381
00:43:12,253 --> 00:43:15,882
Nearly 50 species of reptiles
patrol the waterways,
382
00:43:15,973 --> 00:43:20,251
including saltwater crocodiles
and giant water monitors.
383
00:43:23,213 --> 00:43:27,604
The mud feeds the mangroves
that are the basis for everything here.
384
00:43:30,213 --> 00:43:34,172
Some animals, like macaques,
eat the mangrove roots.
385
00:43:34,813 --> 00:43:38,283
Others, like the spotted deer,
eat the leaves.
386
00:43:39,813 --> 00:43:44,443
This forest, surprisingly, supports
thousands of deer and wild boar,
387
00:43:44,533 --> 00:43:47,001
and that has exciting implications.
388
00:43:48,813 --> 00:43:52,567
There may be enough food here
to support lots of tigers.
389
00:43:52,653 --> 00:43:54,086
So much food, perhaps,
390
00:43:54,173 --> 00:43:58,724
that it seems some tigers don't need
to hunt prey that walks right into them.
391
00:44:00,093 --> 00:44:02,653
(BOAR GRUNTING)
392
00:44:13,493 --> 00:44:15,961
Early indications
from the tiger team's work
393
00:44:16,053 --> 00:44:18,203
suggest that the Sunderbans might have
394
00:44:18,293 --> 00:44:21,410
the greatest concentration
of tigers in the world.
395
00:44:21,493 --> 00:44:23,404
Maybe over 300 animals.
396
00:44:28,373 --> 00:44:30,568
These tigers need protecting.
397
00:44:32,053 --> 00:44:33,850
But so do the people.
398
00:44:34,933 --> 00:44:37,288
It's too early to say
if the unique conditions here
399
00:44:37,373 --> 00:44:40,046
make these tigers more aggressive.
400
00:44:40,133 --> 00:44:43,842
But one thing is clear,
many people who come into the Sunderbans
401
00:44:43,933 --> 00:44:47,050
don't know how to behave
in tiger country.
402
00:44:47,133 --> 00:44:50,887
The tiger team are trying
to make people think about safety.
403
00:44:50,973 --> 00:44:54,852
"Don't go into the forest alone
and don't work at night."
404
00:44:59,253 --> 00:45:02,290
The fishermen,
back in the village after the rains,
405
00:45:02,373 --> 00:45:04,603
are building a cage around the waterhole
406
00:45:04,693 --> 00:45:07,730
to discourage further visits
from the tigress.
407
00:45:09,773 --> 00:45:13,243
Protecting all the thousands
who come into the Sunderbans every year
408
00:45:13,333 --> 00:45:18,282
to catch fish, cut wood, or gather honey
will be a difficult task.
409
00:45:20,493 --> 00:45:22,051
But strangely,
410
00:45:22,133 --> 00:45:25,887
these livelihoods are only possible
because of the tigers.
411
00:45:30,373 --> 00:45:32,409
Fear of the big cats means
412
00:45:32,493 --> 00:45:35,929
that only the bravest venture
into the Sunderbans.
413
00:45:36,853 --> 00:45:40,482
Without the tigers,
the forest would soon be overrun,
414
00:45:40,573 --> 00:45:44,043
and the natural bounty it provides
would be lost.
415
00:45:49,053 --> 00:45:52,204
In the Sunderbans,
as all along the Ganges,
416
00:45:52,293 --> 00:45:56,252
all living things depend
on the great river's richness.
417
00:45:58,733 --> 00:46:01,201
On her epic journey from the mountains,
418
00:46:01,293 --> 00:46:04,524
she brings fertile mud
and life-giving waters
419
00:46:04,613 --> 00:46:06,444
to fields and forests.
420
00:46:08,613 --> 00:46:12,367
The Ganges has fuelled the rise
of great civilisations,
421
00:46:12,453 --> 00:46:16,366
and today supports nearly one tenth
of the world's population.
422
00:46:19,853 --> 00:46:22,970
But what does the future hold
for this river of life
423
00:46:23,053 --> 00:46:25,726
and the lands she has created?
424
00:46:25,813 --> 00:46:27,485
By the end of this century,
425
00:46:27,573 --> 00:46:31,202
over 10% of the delta might disappear
beneath the sea
426
00:46:31,293 --> 00:46:33,568
because of climate change.
427
00:46:36,253 --> 00:46:38,767
The river itself is also threatened.
428
00:46:41,693 --> 00:46:45,322
If the growing population continues
to swallow the river's waters
429
00:46:45,413 --> 00:46:46,926
at the current rate,
430
00:46:47,013 --> 00:46:50,926
then some day, the Ganges
may no longer reach the delta.
431
00:46:56,893 --> 00:46:59,965
There is hope
for the future of the great river,
432
00:47:00,053 --> 00:47:04,285
and it's embodied within the reverence
with which she is still held.
433
00:47:11,493 --> 00:47:16,521
Sagar Island is the last land
before the Ganges joins the sea.
434
00:47:18,213 --> 00:47:21,683
Every January, over a million
Hindu pilgrims gather here
435
00:47:21,773 --> 00:47:24,048
to give thanks to the river.
436
00:47:35,573 --> 00:47:39,612
They bathe at dawn
on the holy day of Maker Sankranti,
437
00:47:39,693 --> 00:47:43,003
hoping that the sacred waters
will wash their sins away
438
00:47:43,093 --> 00:47:45,049
into the Bay of Bengal.
439
00:47:49,813 --> 00:47:53,692
People know that the Ganges is
the giver of life here.
440
00:47:53,773 --> 00:47:59,086
Hopefully, they will fight to keep
their goddess, Ma Ganga, alive and well.
441
00:48:11,733 --> 00:48:15,248
The future of the river
and the life she sustains
442
00:48:15,333 --> 00:48:17,403
is in the hands of mankind.
39376
Can't find what you're looking for?
Get subtitles in any language from opensubtitles.com, and translate them here.