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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:21,853 --> 00:00:24,003 NARRATOR: The Ganges. 2 00:00:27,453 --> 00:00:31,412 These sacred waters, and the plains through which they flow, 3 00:00:31,493 --> 00:00:35,566 have always nourished an extraordinary wealth of life. 4 00:00:39,733 --> 00:00:42,850 And the lives of the people who inhabit her banks 5 00:00:42,933 --> 00:00:46,050 have long been inextricably linked with nature. 6 00:00:48,773 --> 00:00:52,732 But how did this intimate relationship evolve over the centuries 7 00:00:52,813 --> 00:00:56,203 as waves of people swept across northern India? 8 00:01:01,613 --> 00:01:04,685 Which creatures adapted to the tides of change? 9 00:01:06,013 --> 00:01:10,245 And which ones vanished forever to live on only in legend? 10 00:01:25,173 --> 00:01:30,805 The Ganges flows across the plains like a timeline through India's past. 11 00:01:31,573 --> 00:01:34,804 And even today, a journey along her course 12 00:01:34,893 --> 00:01:38,932 offers tantalizing glimpses into the rich natural history 13 00:01:39,013 --> 00:01:41,402 of this most bountiful river. 14 00:01:56,693 --> 00:02:02,325 Once every 12 years, 50 million people congregate on the banks of the Ganges 15 00:02:02,413 --> 00:02:04,529 for the Kumbh Mela. 16 00:02:06,653 --> 00:02:09,850 This Hindu festival is the greatest gathering on Earth. 17 00:02:10,693 --> 00:02:13,969 Yet it's only a fraction of the half a billion population 18 00:02:14,053 --> 00:02:16,009 that the river supports. 19 00:02:17,773 --> 00:02:22,483 One out of every 10 people on our planet lives within the Ganges basin. 20 00:02:23,173 --> 00:02:26,609 And the fertile waters brings sustenance to them all. 21 00:02:38,013 --> 00:02:42,211 But the human crowds on the plains are only a recent phenomenon. 22 00:02:44,133 --> 00:02:47,489 This was once India's great wilderness. 23 00:02:54,693 --> 00:02:58,368 The river Ganges ends in the world's largest delta, 24 00:02:58,453 --> 00:03:01,411 and originates in the highest mountain range. 25 00:03:02,173 --> 00:03:04,289 But between these extremes, 26 00:03:04,373 --> 00:03:09,447 she cuts a 1,500-mile course through the heart of northern India. 27 00:03:10,253 --> 00:03:15,122 This vast expanse of lowland is known as the Gangetic Plains. 28 00:03:22,133 --> 00:03:27,082 The river first meets the plains as she leaves the foothills of Himalaya. 29 00:03:40,533 --> 00:03:44,367 As the fast-flowing mountain torrents reach flatter land, 30 00:03:44,493 --> 00:03:49,613 they slow and spread out to create a band of marshy grassland. 31 00:03:53,053 --> 00:03:56,602 This lush wilderness is known as the Terai, 32 00:03:56,693 --> 00:03:59,765 and it's one of India's most productive landscapes. 33 00:04:05,213 --> 00:04:08,523 The grass here can grow four metres each year. 34 00:04:11,733 --> 00:04:15,567 Tall enough to conceal some oversized wildlife. 35 00:04:26,213 --> 00:04:30,525 Today, most of the Terai around the Ganges has succumbed to the plough. 36 00:04:30,613 --> 00:04:32,968 But isolated pockets still flourish 37 00:04:33,053 --> 00:04:36,045 in the far reaches of some of her tributaries. 38 00:04:41,573 --> 00:04:45,248 These grasslands are the last stronghold of the Indian Rhino, 39 00:04:45,653 --> 00:04:48,406 which once roamed throughout the plains. 40 00:04:57,613 --> 00:05:02,368 With so much to graze upon, huge herds of deer also thrive here. 41 00:05:03,413 --> 00:05:07,804 And where there's this much prey, predators are never far away. 42 00:05:15,733 --> 00:05:19,328 Tigers are surprisingly at home in this watery world. 43 00:05:19,653 --> 00:05:21,564 And such prolific hunting grounds 44 00:05:21,653 --> 00:05:25,282 enable them to grow into some of the biggest tigers in India. 45 00:05:33,573 --> 00:05:37,282 The last fragments of this unique habitat are a rare reminder 46 00:05:37,373 --> 00:05:41,412 of just how rich the banks of the Ganges must once have been. 47 00:05:44,413 --> 00:05:47,962 And it was a wilderness like this into which people first arrived 48 00:05:48,053 --> 00:05:50,248 over 40,000 years ago. 49 00:05:53,693 --> 00:05:57,083 When nomadic hunter-gatherers discovered the Ganges, 50 00:05:57,253 --> 00:06:00,563 they encountered a river teeming with so much life 51 00:06:00,653 --> 00:06:03,406 that they decided to settle by her banks. 52 00:06:10,333 --> 00:06:13,962 Today, many people still make a living from the river. 53 00:06:14,093 --> 00:06:18,291 Fishing in ways unchanged since the times of the first settlers. 54 00:06:32,853 --> 00:06:35,970 As more and more people arrived at the Ganges, 55 00:06:36,053 --> 00:06:39,045 they began exploring further along her course. 56 00:06:44,253 --> 00:06:48,724 Beyond the Terai, the river transforms into a wide waterway 57 00:06:48,813 --> 00:06:52,772 that meanders slowly eastwards through the baking plains. 58 00:06:56,133 --> 00:06:59,808 To consider the Ganges as a single river is misleading. 59 00:06:59,893 --> 00:07:01,690 Because throughout her journey, 60 00:07:01,773 --> 00:07:04,890 she's joined by thousands of tributaries, 61 00:07:04,973 --> 00:07:07,931 many of them large rivers in their own right. 62 00:07:13,373 --> 00:07:17,810 The southern tributaries are fed by rainfall on India's central plateau. 63 00:07:17,973 --> 00:07:22,285 And they tumble from this higher land to meet the Ganges on the plains. 64 00:07:27,733 --> 00:07:32,568 But there's another tributary that flows from a far more unlikely source. 65 00:07:39,973 --> 00:07:44,683 The deserts of western India may seem an unpromising start for a river, 66 00:07:45,493 --> 00:07:48,644 yet this is where the Chambal is born. 67 00:07:50,573 --> 00:07:53,770 Fed by underground springs, the river flows through 68 00:07:53,853 --> 00:07:58,244 some of India's most arid lands before reaching the plains. 69 00:08:01,213 --> 00:08:03,602 Though some people do scratch a living here, 70 00:08:03,693 --> 00:08:06,526 the Chambal remains a wildlife oasis 71 00:08:06,613 --> 00:08:10,970 for the natural treasures once found right along the Ganges. 72 00:08:20,093 --> 00:08:25,372 Some migrant birds, such as Bar-headed geese and Brahminy ducks, 73 00:08:25,453 --> 00:08:30,573 fly all the way across the Himalaya to over-winter here in the desert sun. 74 00:08:37,693 --> 00:08:41,686 Others, like spoonbills, take up permanent residence. 75 00:08:52,493 --> 00:08:55,724 Indian skimmers are also seen here all year round, 76 00:08:55,813 --> 00:08:58,043 fishing the well-stocked river. 77 00:09:06,893 --> 00:09:09,088 This is one of only a few places 78 00:09:09,173 --> 00:09:12,609 where these graceful birds still patrol the waters, 79 00:09:12,693 --> 00:09:16,129 trawling for fish with their outsized lower bill. 80 00:09:38,173 --> 00:09:41,529 Human influence on the Chambal is steadily increasing. 81 00:09:41,973 --> 00:09:45,488 But today, the river still harks back to a time 82 00:09:45,573 --> 00:09:49,088 when just a few early settlers shared the Ganges 83 00:09:49,173 --> 00:09:51,403 with their natural neighbours. 84 00:10:00,253 --> 00:10:02,721 As night falls over the desert, 85 00:10:02,813 --> 00:10:07,443 the Chambal's most unusual inhabitants begin to surface. 86 00:10:22,533 --> 00:10:26,526 On warm May nights, bizarre-looking crocodiles 87 00:10:26,613 --> 00:10:32,165 haul themselves far up the sandy banks beckoned by strange sounds. 88 00:10:33,493 --> 00:10:35,324 (SQUAWKING) 89 00:10:35,413 --> 00:10:39,691 This female gharial is responding to calls from her young, 90 00:10:39,813 --> 00:10:43,089 telling her they're ready to enter their new world. 91 00:10:44,093 --> 00:10:47,403 Yet they're still within eggs buried in the sand, 92 00:10:47,493 --> 00:10:50,326 and they need their mother to dig them out. 93 00:11:01,453 --> 00:11:06,288 As few as 200 of these extraordinary reptiles survive in the wild. 94 00:11:06,693 --> 00:11:11,289 So this precious brood represents a new generation of hope 95 00:11:11,373 --> 00:11:13,489 for the endangered gharial. 96 00:11:18,693 --> 00:11:22,049 Now exposed, they're vulnerable to predators 97 00:11:22,133 --> 00:11:25,808 and instinct drives them towards the sanctuary of the river. 98 00:11:39,973 --> 00:11:42,487 But even here, monsters lurk. 99 00:11:43,533 --> 00:11:46,525 Male gharial that grow up to six metres long 100 00:11:46,613 --> 00:11:50,765 also inhabit these waters, and at night they're on the hunt. 101 00:11:58,813 --> 00:12:01,202 The gharial's formidable-looking jaws 102 00:12:01,293 --> 00:12:04,126 are actually specialised for catching fish. 103 00:12:04,573 --> 00:12:09,328 A thin profile allows them to snap shut with minimal water-resistance. 104 00:12:11,453 --> 00:12:12,932 But in the shadowy light, 105 00:12:13,013 --> 00:12:16,369 a small hatchling can easily be mistaken for prey. 106 00:12:20,013 --> 00:12:24,086 During the early days of life, it pays to stick close to mum. 107 00:12:27,853 --> 00:12:31,687 Gharials may be cold-blooded, but they make devoted mothers. 108 00:12:35,293 --> 00:12:38,524 For six months, they attentively guard their young 109 00:12:38,613 --> 00:12:41,810 and even share baby-sitting duties with other mothers 110 00:12:41,893 --> 00:12:45,203 to allow each other a little time off to hunt. 111 00:12:57,053 --> 00:12:59,613 Rain-fed tributaries such as the Chambal 112 00:12:59,693 --> 00:13:03,163 play a small part in replenishing the flow of the Ganges. 113 00:13:03,253 --> 00:13:07,007 But the majority of her water comes from a different source. 114 00:13:10,253 --> 00:13:12,813 Throughout her journey across the plains, 115 00:13:12,893 --> 00:13:16,249 the Ganges remains in the shadow of the Himalaya, 116 00:13:16,333 --> 00:13:18,324 and she's continually fed by rivers 117 00:13:18,413 --> 00:13:22,042 that flow from this colossal chain of mountains. 118 00:13:37,613 --> 00:13:40,605 Water from many of the world's tallest peaks, 119 00:13:40,693 --> 00:13:44,527 including Mount Everest, feeds into the Ganges. 120 00:13:50,093 --> 00:13:54,166 Up here, the most important source of water is not rain, 121 00:13:55,213 --> 00:13:56,771 but ice. 122 00:14:02,853 --> 00:14:06,402 This glacial meltwater ensures a constant supply 123 00:14:06,493 --> 00:14:10,122 to the arid plains, even during the driest months. 124 00:14:15,533 --> 00:14:19,811 Almost half of the water in the Ganges originates from glaciers. 125 00:14:20,573 --> 00:14:24,043 And these northern tributaries also bestow on the Ganges 126 00:14:24,133 --> 00:14:26,363 an even more precious gift. 127 00:14:29,893 --> 00:14:34,648 By May, temperatures on the plains can soar to 50 degrees Celsius. 128 00:14:37,893 --> 00:14:42,205 Despite her meltwater supply, even the Ganges begins to recede. 129 00:14:45,773 --> 00:14:48,924 And the searing sun bakes the earth dry. 130 00:14:54,733 --> 00:14:58,282 Just as the stifling heat is becoming unbearable, 131 00:14:58,373 --> 00:15:00,170 change is in the air. 132 00:15:04,773 --> 00:15:08,243 As ocean winds carry moist air towards the plains, 133 00:15:08,333 --> 00:15:11,052 clouds begin to fill the summer sky. 134 00:15:12,293 --> 00:15:15,490 Laden with moisture, they grow dark and heavy 135 00:15:15,573 --> 00:15:20,442 until finally, around mid-June, the monsoon arrives. 136 00:15:20,733 --> 00:15:22,405 (THUNDER CLAPPING) 137 00:15:37,853 --> 00:15:40,208 These are anything but grey days. 138 00:15:40,293 --> 00:15:43,251 The monsoon rejuvenates life on the plains, 139 00:15:43,333 --> 00:15:45,324 and it's welcomed by all. 140 00:15:52,893 --> 00:15:56,249 The torrential downpours continue for three months, 141 00:15:56,333 --> 00:15:59,291 and most of this water ends up in the Ganges. 142 00:16:06,453 --> 00:16:08,364 Rainfall on the Himalaya 143 00:16:08,453 --> 00:16:12,412 transforms mountain streams into raging torrents, 144 00:16:12,493 --> 00:16:15,565 which carve their way down the rocky slopes. 145 00:16:17,733 --> 00:16:20,884 These sediment-laden waters feed into the Ganges 146 00:16:20,973 --> 00:16:23,043 until she can hold no more. 147 00:16:25,813 --> 00:16:30,762 The river bursts her banks, flooding many thousands of square miles. 148 00:16:33,973 --> 00:16:35,691 As the monsoon fades, 149 00:16:35,773 --> 00:16:39,527 the receding floodwaters reveal their parting gift. 150 00:16:43,053 --> 00:16:44,691 Mud. 151 00:16:46,893 --> 00:16:50,602 Each monsoon, the Ganges collects half a billion tons 152 00:16:50,693 --> 00:16:55,369 of mineral-rich sediment from the Himalaya and dumps it on the plains. 153 00:17:01,053 --> 00:17:05,729 Over millions of years, this has created some of the world's richest soils, 154 00:17:05,813 --> 00:17:09,442 which in some places are three miles deep. 155 00:17:22,533 --> 00:17:24,683 For millennia, the fertile land 156 00:17:24,773 --> 00:17:27,810 and year-round water supply provided by the river 157 00:17:27,893 --> 00:17:33,251 have enabled the people of the plains to cultivate an endless variety of crops. 158 00:17:40,933 --> 00:17:44,608 As farming flourished, the people began to worship 159 00:17:44,693 --> 00:17:47,924 the miraculous life-giving powers of the Ganges. 160 00:17:54,573 --> 00:17:57,371 The seeds of a new religion were sown. 161 00:17:58,813 --> 00:18:03,204 People revered the natural forces and crops upon which they depended. 162 00:18:04,493 --> 00:18:09,692 And one plant was considered more important than all the others. 163 00:18:12,613 --> 00:18:13,728 Rice. 164 00:18:14,373 --> 00:18:18,002 Perfectly adapted to grow in the Ganges flood cycle. 165 00:18:18,093 --> 00:18:21,688 It's been the staple food for 7,000 years. 166 00:18:23,893 --> 00:18:27,090 Today, paddy fields dominate the landscape. 167 00:18:27,173 --> 00:18:29,323 And so much rice is grown here 168 00:18:29,413 --> 00:18:33,452 that the area has become known as the rice bowl of India. 169 00:18:40,093 --> 00:18:43,051 The rise of farming didn't only change the landscape, 170 00:18:43,133 --> 00:18:45,886 it also offered a home to new creatures. 171 00:18:50,693 --> 00:18:54,652 The people of the Ganges have long kept all sorts of domestic animals 172 00:18:54,733 --> 00:18:57,566 and put them to use in ingenious ways. 173 00:19:00,373 --> 00:19:04,082 Duck herding is an ancient and lucrative occupation. 174 00:19:06,893 --> 00:19:09,726 So many ducks lay a lot of eggs, 175 00:19:09,813 --> 00:19:14,204 and the herders are also paid to graze their flocks on the paddy fields. 176 00:19:16,733 --> 00:19:20,772 As the ducks feed, they clear the weeds from the inundated fields, 177 00:19:20,853 --> 00:19:24,607 and their droppings add extra dollops of organic fertilizer. 178 00:19:29,453 --> 00:19:33,890 Yet it isn't just domestic animals that are welcome on the cultivated land. 179 00:19:33,973 --> 00:19:36,009 The wetlands around the paddy fields 180 00:19:36,093 --> 00:19:39,563 make an ideal home for all sorts of wild birds. 181 00:19:41,853 --> 00:19:46,847 And one visitor to these fields is honoured as a bearer of good fortune. 182 00:19:52,973 --> 00:19:55,282 Standing as high as a man, 183 00:19:55,373 --> 00:19:59,685 the Sarus crane is the tallest flying bird in the world. 184 00:20:02,133 --> 00:20:03,532 (CAWING) 185 00:20:03,613 --> 00:20:06,764 These magnificent birds pair for life, 186 00:20:06,853 --> 00:20:09,845 and their faithful nature has led them to be venerated 187 00:20:09,933 --> 00:20:12,367 as symbols of marital bliss. 188 00:20:16,493 --> 00:20:19,166 To help strengthen their partnerships, 189 00:20:19,253 --> 00:20:22,962 the cranes perform elegant courtship dances. 190 00:21:32,333 --> 00:21:35,803 Although some animals thrived in the changing landscape, 191 00:21:35,893 --> 00:21:40,011 many were not so well-adapted to survive the rise of agriculture. 192 00:21:40,093 --> 00:21:43,210 And not all made such amenable neighbours. 193 00:21:48,853 --> 00:21:52,562 But at this time, the farmed areas were mere islands 194 00:21:52,653 --> 00:21:56,407 within an endless sea of dense forest and grassland. 195 00:21:59,733 --> 00:22:03,089 This untamed jungle teemed with animals, 196 00:22:03,173 --> 00:22:08,088 some of which might seem more at home on the African savannah than in India. 197 00:22:12,893 --> 00:22:15,851 It's often forgotten that both lions and cheetahs 198 00:22:15,933 --> 00:22:17,969 once prowled these plains. 199 00:22:19,333 --> 00:22:22,131 But how long could the growing human population 200 00:22:22,213 --> 00:22:25,489 share the land with such powerful predators? 201 00:22:42,373 --> 00:22:45,683 Settlements were springing up all along the Ganges. 202 00:22:46,493 --> 00:22:49,724 And the river provided an open route of communication 203 00:22:49,813 --> 00:22:52,805 through the otherwise impenetrable wilderness. 204 00:22:57,133 --> 00:22:59,408 As traffic on the river increased, 205 00:22:59,493 --> 00:23:03,088 small trading posts developed into large ports. 206 00:23:05,493 --> 00:23:09,168 Within these towns, the civilization matured. 207 00:23:09,253 --> 00:23:11,642 And religion grew more elaborate. 208 00:23:22,013 --> 00:23:25,767 Hinduism evolved along the banks of the Ganges, 209 00:23:26,413 --> 00:23:31,203 absorbing the local reverence for nature into a more complex faith. 210 00:23:35,253 --> 00:23:39,246 But the river always remained at the very heart of the religion. 211 00:23:44,693 --> 00:23:49,847 And soon she came to be worshipped as a powerful deity in her own right. 212 00:23:52,613 --> 00:23:56,526 Ganga, the goddess of creation and abundance. 213 00:24:01,053 --> 00:24:03,362 And there's one point along her waters 214 00:24:03,453 --> 00:24:06,411 that's considered sacred above all others. 215 00:24:11,853 --> 00:24:15,607 Varanasi lies about halfway along the Ganges 216 00:24:16,333 --> 00:24:20,121 on the only stretch that turns to flow back towards the mountains 217 00:24:20,213 --> 00:24:22,044 in which she was born. 218 00:24:31,893 --> 00:24:34,965 Varanasi is the most ancient city on the river. 219 00:24:36,213 --> 00:24:40,001 And it has long been deeply intertwined with the Hindu faith. 220 00:24:42,613 --> 00:24:44,490 The orientation of the river 221 00:24:44,573 --> 00:24:49,442 allows a long series of bathing ghats to face the rising sun, 222 00:24:50,853 --> 00:24:54,562 illuminating the thousands of pilgrims that visit Varanasi 223 00:24:54,653 --> 00:24:56,928 to pray in the hallowed waters. 224 00:25:16,733 --> 00:25:19,088 The animist origins of the religion 225 00:25:19,173 --> 00:25:23,132 ensured animals a powerful role in Hindu belief. 226 00:25:25,533 --> 00:25:27,489 Ganesh, the elephant god, 227 00:25:29,093 --> 00:25:31,288 and Hanuman, the monkey warrior, 228 00:25:31,373 --> 00:25:34,809 are the most celebrated deities that take animal form. 229 00:25:37,373 --> 00:25:41,366 But Hindus also associate many other creatures with their gods. 230 00:25:45,533 --> 00:25:50,402 So many animals have been incorporated into the religion in one way or another 231 00:25:50,533 --> 00:25:54,321 that exactly which creatures should be revered, and by whom, 232 00:25:54,413 --> 00:25:56,449 is open to interpretation. 233 00:26:00,413 --> 00:26:03,928 One man's deity may be another man's demon. 234 00:26:11,213 --> 00:26:16,606 Considering 20,000 Indians die each year as a result of snakebite, 235 00:26:16,693 --> 00:26:20,652 it's no surprise that the people of the Ganges fear snakes. 236 00:26:31,013 --> 00:26:32,731 But not everywhere. 237 00:26:35,213 --> 00:26:37,522 In a few places within the flood plain, 238 00:26:37,613 --> 00:26:42,050 the religious significance of cobras is central to village life. 239 00:26:51,893 --> 00:26:55,442 Though deadly, unusually high numbers of cobras 240 00:26:55,533 --> 00:26:59,526 can be found slithering freely through the streets and houses. 241 00:27:26,013 --> 00:27:28,163 Believing they've been blessed with the power 242 00:27:28,253 --> 00:27:30,483 to overcome the effects of the venom, 243 00:27:30,573 --> 00:27:33,565 the villagers pay the snakes little attention. 244 00:27:43,413 --> 00:27:47,531 Bites do inevitably, and regularly, occur in these villages, 245 00:27:47,613 --> 00:27:50,889 but the victims always refuse medical help. 246 00:27:56,973 --> 00:27:59,851 Instead, they rely on faith healing. 247 00:28:07,573 --> 00:28:12,408 It's claimed that no one in the village has ever died from a cobra's bite. 248 00:28:15,253 --> 00:28:18,802 Even children appear to make a miraculous recovery. 249 00:28:22,573 --> 00:28:25,451 Though the real truth behind this alleged immunity 250 00:28:25,533 --> 00:28:27,683 remains shrouded in mystery, 251 00:28:28,733 --> 00:28:32,772 it's a powerful testament to the reverence animals can command 252 00:28:32,853 --> 00:28:34,764 amongst Hindu devotees. 253 00:28:45,613 --> 00:28:49,401 Hinduism rapidly spread along the Ganges. 254 00:28:49,493 --> 00:28:54,044 And it has proved to be a valuable ally for the wildlife of the plains. 255 00:29:08,013 --> 00:29:10,481 As well as honouring animal deities, 256 00:29:10,573 --> 00:29:14,532 the faith also teaches a more general respect for nature. 257 00:29:19,573 --> 00:29:23,202 In flood plain towns, such as here in Bateshwar, 258 00:29:23,293 --> 00:29:26,365 it's remarkable how much tolerance the local people afford 259 00:29:26,453 --> 00:29:28,683 their many natural neighbours. 260 00:29:34,573 --> 00:29:38,771 Rhesus macaques are far from the most holy of animals. 261 00:29:38,853 --> 00:29:42,766 In fact, their mischievous nature can be a persistent nuisance. 262 00:29:45,893 --> 00:29:49,647 The urban troops get up to all sorts of monkey business, 263 00:29:49,733 --> 00:29:54,443 but it's their smash-and-grab approach to finding food that's the most trying. 264 00:30:42,853 --> 00:30:47,563 Once again, the light-fingered macaques get away with another free lunch. 265 00:30:52,293 --> 00:30:54,204 Yet, for the local people, 266 00:30:54,293 --> 00:30:58,047 these animal encounters are just another part of daily life. 267 00:31:01,133 --> 00:31:04,364 Over millennia, the Hindu reverence for nature 268 00:31:04,453 --> 00:31:08,571 offered the river and her wild inhabitants considerable sanctuary. 269 00:31:10,973 --> 00:31:15,091 But around a thousand years ago, things began to change. 270 00:31:19,253 --> 00:31:22,802 Waves of Muslim invaders arrived from the west 271 00:31:22,893 --> 00:31:26,169 and their influence spread right across the plains. 272 00:31:28,733 --> 00:31:31,247 As well as introducing Islam to India, 273 00:31:31,333 --> 00:31:35,804 they brought new ideas about technology, culture and art. 274 00:31:41,013 --> 00:31:44,972 The Mughals were the last and most influential of these invaders. 275 00:31:45,093 --> 00:31:46,970 And their legacy lives on 276 00:31:47,053 --> 00:31:51,012 in the most spectacular architecture of the Ganges plain. 277 00:31:55,573 --> 00:31:58,246 The intricate detailing within their buildings 278 00:31:58,333 --> 00:32:01,928 displays the Mughals' fascination with the natural world. 279 00:32:04,893 --> 00:32:09,171 But their attitude to nature was very different from the Hindus. 280 00:32:10,053 --> 00:32:14,569 Their scientific heritage compelled them to understand and master it. 281 00:32:16,693 --> 00:32:21,369 Around their palaces and tombs, they created formal paradise gardens, 282 00:32:21,493 --> 00:32:24,929 which they stocked with game captured from the plains. 283 00:32:29,293 --> 00:32:32,171 Coming from the barren deserts of Central Asia, 284 00:32:32,253 --> 00:32:36,132 the Mughals were enchanted by the rich wildlife of the Ganges. 285 00:32:40,653 --> 00:32:43,611 They were keen observers of animal behaviour, 286 00:32:43,853 --> 00:32:47,812 and are considered to have been India's first great naturalists. 287 00:32:53,733 --> 00:32:57,965 But they were even more passionate about another outdoor pursuit. 288 00:33:01,893 --> 00:33:04,407 The Mughals were obsessive hunters. 289 00:33:05,373 --> 00:33:07,329 And the more formidable the quarry, 290 00:33:07,413 --> 00:33:10,291 the greater the respect a hunter commanded. 291 00:33:12,773 --> 00:33:17,085 Mughal nobility competed to bag the largest number of big cats, 292 00:33:17,173 --> 00:33:19,971 and many notched up prodigious totals. 293 00:33:22,213 --> 00:33:26,047 But the impact their hunting had on the wildlife of the Ganges 294 00:33:26,133 --> 00:33:30,763 would pale in comparison to that of the next wave of invaders. 295 00:33:36,293 --> 00:33:40,252 The British came to India in search of commercial opportunity 296 00:33:40,333 --> 00:33:44,008 and they were quick to realise the potential of the plains. 297 00:33:44,813 --> 00:33:50,092 Agriculture grew to be big business, and wild animals were seen as vermin. 298 00:33:54,973 --> 00:33:58,249 Large carnivores became public enemy number one, 299 00:33:58,333 --> 00:34:00,927 and bounties were put on their heads. 300 00:34:03,493 --> 00:34:07,930 Today, only 350 lions still survive in India. 301 00:34:08,413 --> 00:34:11,723 But they've been wiped out entirely from the plains. 302 00:34:18,533 --> 00:34:21,366 The Indian Cheetah fared even worse. 303 00:34:21,773 --> 00:34:26,483 And by the middle of the 20th century, it was declared extinct. 304 00:34:34,373 --> 00:34:38,605 Although hunting dealt a serious blow to the wildlife of the Ganges, 305 00:34:38,693 --> 00:34:43,448 the habitat destruction under British rule took a far heavier toll. 306 00:34:44,853 --> 00:34:46,650 Elephants were put to work, 307 00:34:46,733 --> 00:34:50,408 plundering the very forest from which they'd been captured. 308 00:34:52,253 --> 00:34:54,642 But while the wilderness was disappearing, 309 00:34:54,733 --> 00:34:58,169 India was hurtling towards the industrial age. 310 00:35:03,893 --> 00:35:05,963 Timber was in huge demand, 311 00:35:06,053 --> 00:35:09,045 especially for the expanding railway network. 312 00:35:10,573 --> 00:35:15,249 During the 1870s, one million sleepers were required every year, 313 00:35:15,333 --> 00:35:18,689 for the new lines springing up across northern India. 314 00:35:22,933 --> 00:35:26,767 By the time the British left halfway through the 20th century, 315 00:35:27,253 --> 00:35:30,563 almost all the forests of the plains had disappeared 316 00:35:31,093 --> 00:35:35,166 and the elephants living within them were left homeless. 317 00:35:38,413 --> 00:35:42,292 Today, as machinery is increasingly used for heavy labour, 318 00:35:42,373 --> 00:35:45,729 even working elephants are being made redundant. 319 00:35:48,893 --> 00:35:51,805 But there's still one place along the Ganges 320 00:35:51,893 --> 00:35:56,444 where these powerful beasts of burden are traded in large numbers. 321 00:36:04,253 --> 00:36:07,962 The Sonpur Mela is the largest cattle fair in Asia. 322 00:36:08,293 --> 00:36:12,730 It started over a thousand years ago, and it has been growing ever since. 323 00:36:18,133 --> 00:36:20,408 On the first full moon in November, 324 00:36:20,493 --> 00:36:24,930 people arrive from all over northern India to haggle over livestock. 325 00:36:32,253 --> 00:36:34,642 The sheer quantity of domestic animals 326 00:36:34,733 --> 00:36:38,521 affirms their status as the dominant creatures of the plains. 327 00:36:49,253 --> 00:36:53,166 Sonpur's lively horse market provides endless entertainment 328 00:36:53,253 --> 00:36:55,209 for the festival crowds. 329 00:37:05,493 --> 00:37:09,327 But it's the elephants that are by far the biggest attraction. 330 00:37:11,733 --> 00:37:15,282 Each morning, the mahouts lead their elephants down to the river 331 00:37:15,373 --> 00:37:18,490 to be washed alongside thousands of worshippers, 332 00:37:19,453 --> 00:37:22,650 creating one of the most timeless scenes of India. 333 00:37:30,613 --> 00:37:33,810 The intimate relationship between elephant and man 334 00:37:33,893 --> 00:37:35,884 had endured for millennia. 335 00:37:35,973 --> 00:37:38,771 And these animals are still highly prized. 336 00:37:42,013 --> 00:37:46,325 In good condition, elephants are sold for as much as �10,000 337 00:37:46,413 --> 00:37:48,847 so it pays to look after them well. 338 00:37:51,013 --> 00:37:54,289 Life for captive elephants can be far easier 339 00:37:54,373 --> 00:37:57,968 than it is for the remaining wild herds of the plains. 340 00:38:02,493 --> 00:38:05,849 The Ganges continues her eastward journey 341 00:38:06,013 --> 00:38:10,052 through the endless farmland and enters Bengal. 342 00:38:19,693 --> 00:38:24,721 It's autumn time and the rice is maturing in the ubiquitous paddy fields. 343 00:38:28,053 --> 00:38:30,123 But in certain areas of Bengal, 344 00:38:30,213 --> 00:38:32,363 the villagers hurry to clear their fields 345 00:38:32,453 --> 00:38:34,842 before the rice is fully ripened. 346 00:38:37,373 --> 00:38:41,332 Night is falling and their settlements are under siege. 347 00:38:44,613 --> 00:38:47,810 They must prepare to do battle with an army of raiders 348 00:38:47,893 --> 00:38:50,691 that strike under the cover of darkness. 349 00:38:52,453 --> 00:38:56,890 It is a war that will be waged every night for the next six months. 350 00:38:59,733 --> 00:39:03,612 Lookouts scan for any signs of hostile activity, 351 00:39:03,693 --> 00:39:06,491 while the rest of the men prepare their weapons. 352 00:39:12,573 --> 00:39:15,406 The enemy is marching onto the battlefields. 353 00:39:15,493 --> 00:39:18,963 But they're too distant to be picked out by the sentry. 354 00:39:20,693 --> 00:39:22,923 Only image-intensifying cameras 355 00:39:23,013 --> 00:39:26,688 reveal the true nature of the advancing army. 356 00:39:34,333 --> 00:39:36,563 Led by the normally solitary males, 357 00:39:36,653 --> 00:39:40,487 smaller groups join forces to create a hundred-strong herd, 358 00:39:40,573 --> 00:39:43,451 with enough might to take on the villagers. 359 00:39:47,613 --> 00:39:52,129 Their joy at finding food belies the severity of their situation. 360 00:39:53,973 --> 00:39:57,283 Farming has claimed so much wilderness from the plains, 361 00:39:57,373 --> 00:40:01,525 that the few remaining wild herds are forced to raid crops. 362 00:40:11,733 --> 00:40:13,803 (MAN YELLING) 363 00:40:13,893 --> 00:40:16,202 (SPEAKING IN BENGALl) 364 00:40:18,453 --> 00:40:19,932 (ALL YELLING) 365 00:40:21,653 --> 00:40:23,928 The villagers must chase the elephants away 366 00:40:24,013 --> 00:40:26,766 before they lose too much of their crop. 367 00:40:28,373 --> 00:40:30,568 But it's a dangerous mission. 368 00:40:31,413 --> 00:40:35,452 These hungry and desperate elephants can become extremely aggressive. 369 00:40:40,333 --> 00:40:42,164 (ELEPHANTS TRUMPETING) 370 00:40:46,333 --> 00:40:49,882 The same people that revere Ganesh, the elephant god, 371 00:40:49,973 --> 00:40:54,091 have little choice but to do battle with his earthly incarnation. 372 00:41:04,293 --> 00:41:06,284 Every year in Bengal alone, 373 00:41:06,373 --> 00:41:10,571 the conflict can claim up to 100 lives from each side. 374 00:41:21,533 --> 00:41:25,208 Tonight, most of the crop has been saved without bloodshed. 375 00:41:25,653 --> 00:41:27,769 But the elephants are still hungry 376 00:41:27,853 --> 00:41:31,163 and long-term peace will be far harder to secure. 377 00:41:43,573 --> 00:41:46,246 As the Ganges continues through Bengal, 378 00:41:46,333 --> 00:41:49,006 a major channel known as the Hooghly river 379 00:41:49,093 --> 00:41:53,564 splits from the main waterway and heads south towards the sea. 380 00:41:54,773 --> 00:41:57,685 Before the Hooghly empties into the Bay of Bengal, 381 00:41:57,773 --> 00:42:00,367 it passes through Calcutta, 382 00:42:00,453 --> 00:42:02,921 the largest city in eastern India. 383 00:42:06,973 --> 00:42:09,646 Once the capital of the British Raj, 384 00:42:09,733 --> 00:42:14,807 today this seething metropolis is home to nearly 15 million people. 385 00:42:18,333 --> 00:42:22,724 Technology and industry rule here, and are helping shape the country 386 00:42:22,813 --> 00:42:26,089 into one of the fastest-growing economies on Earth. 387 00:42:31,013 --> 00:42:36,041 Calcutta is a fry cry from wilderness, yet life still thrives here. 388 00:42:38,373 --> 00:42:41,490 And all these people still depend on the Ganges 389 00:42:41,573 --> 00:42:44,326 for almost all the produce they consume. 390 00:43:06,573 --> 00:43:10,851 For many animals, the pace of life on the plains has become too fast, 391 00:43:11,893 --> 00:43:14,566 but some are more than able to keep up. 392 00:43:19,093 --> 00:43:21,766 Even in the most man-made environments, 393 00:43:21,853 --> 00:43:26,085 India's wildlife manages to surprise and inspire. 394 00:43:45,613 --> 00:43:49,925 This may seem an unlikely setting for such a profusion of life, 395 00:43:50,013 --> 00:43:54,325 but these mountains of waste are home for those who must survive 396 00:43:54,413 --> 00:43:56,324 on what others discard. 397 00:43:59,613 --> 00:44:02,491 It's an uncomfortable reality of modern India 398 00:44:02,573 --> 00:44:06,566 that some have so little, they're forced to scratch a living here. 399 00:44:10,093 --> 00:44:13,005 Yet, for others, this is heaven on Earth. 400 00:44:18,933 --> 00:44:21,367 Black kites are expert scavengers 401 00:44:21,453 --> 00:44:23,444 and they swarm in their thousands 402 00:44:23,533 --> 00:44:26,491 scanning for rich pickings amongst the decay. 403 00:44:36,693 --> 00:44:40,447 For opportunists who can compete in these brave new worlds, 404 00:44:40,533 --> 00:44:43,491 this is a way of life worth fighting for. 405 00:45:07,093 --> 00:45:09,402 Since people first arrived here, 406 00:45:09,493 --> 00:45:14,089 life on the Ganges plains has transformed beyond recognition. 407 00:45:16,613 --> 00:45:19,286 Yet it's always remained abundant, 408 00:45:19,373 --> 00:45:22,843 and the river's gift of life has never run dry. 409 00:45:23,853 --> 00:45:27,482 But for how long will her benevolence continue to flow? 410 00:45:41,853 --> 00:45:44,321 When a Hindu leaves this world, 411 00:45:44,413 --> 00:45:49,009 the most auspicious place to be cremated is on the banks of the Ganges. 412 00:45:54,693 --> 00:45:59,528 Here, the body returns to the same waters that brought it life. 413 00:46:08,013 --> 00:46:12,643 The soul is absolved of sin and blessed by the goddess Ganga 414 00:46:13,293 --> 00:46:16,922 to ensure a safe passage into the next existence. 415 00:46:30,573 --> 00:46:34,930 Through the eternal cycle of life, death and re-birth, 416 00:46:35,013 --> 00:46:39,052 the Ganges remains at the very heart of the Hindu faith. 417 00:46:39,893 --> 00:46:43,681 And it's this sacred connection the people share with their river 418 00:46:43,773 --> 00:46:47,129 that can still save her from the pressures she faces. 419 00:46:51,173 --> 00:46:57,169 As a new dawn rises over the river, she flows towards an uncertain future. 420 00:46:59,133 --> 00:47:01,249 The demands of a growing population 421 00:47:01,333 --> 00:47:04,848 are poisoning her waters and running the river dry. 422 00:47:08,013 --> 00:47:10,322 But all is not lost. 423 00:47:19,293 --> 00:47:21,124 The Ganges river dolphin 424 00:47:21,213 --> 00:47:25,001 is one of the most majestic creatures found in these waters. 425 00:47:26,693 --> 00:47:31,050 And it has survived the many changes through which the river has flowed. 426 00:47:35,013 --> 00:47:38,210 Today, like so many animals of the Ganges, 427 00:47:38,293 --> 00:47:41,763 these ancient mammals are vanishing from her waters. 428 00:47:46,333 --> 00:47:48,722 But that any dolphins survive at all 429 00:47:48,813 --> 00:47:54,012 brings hope that people can still make space for their unique wildlife. 430 00:47:58,373 --> 00:48:02,207 As the river approaches the great wilderness of her delta, 431 00:48:02,293 --> 00:48:04,932 she enters her final incarnation. 432 00:48:08,773 --> 00:48:11,924 The Ganges becomes a vast waterway 433 00:48:12,013 --> 00:48:16,529 and unleashes her awesome power to both create life, 434 00:48:18,053 --> 00:48:20,123 and take it away. 435 01:15:18,053 --> 01:15:23,446 Considering 20,000 Indians die each year as a result of snakebite, 436 01:15:23,533 --> 01:15:27,492 it's no surprise that the people of the Ganges fear snakes. 437 01:15:37,853 --> 01:15:39,571 But not everywhere. 438 01:15:42,053 --> 01:15:44,362 In a few places within the flood plain, 439 01:15:44,453 --> 01:15:48,890 the religious significance of cobras is central to village life. 440 01:15:58,733 --> 01:16:02,282 Though deadly, unusually high numbers of cobras 441 01:16:02,373 --> 01:16:06,366 can be found slithering freely through the streets and houses. 442 01:16:32,853 --> 01:16:35,003 Believing they've been blessed with the power 443 01:16:35,093 --> 01:16:37,323 to overcome the effects of the venom, 444 01:16:37,413 --> 01:16:40,405 the villagers pay the snakes little attention. 445 01:16:50,253 --> 01:16:54,371 Bites do inevitably, and regularly, occur in these villages, 446 01:16:54,453 --> 01:16:57,729 but the victims always refuse medical help. 447 01:17:03,813 --> 01:17:06,691 Instead, they rely on faith healing. 448 01:17:14,413 --> 01:17:19,248 It's claimed that no one in the village has ever died from a cobra's bite. 449 01:17:22,093 --> 01:17:25,642 Even children appear to make a miraculous recovery. 450 01:17:29,413 --> 01:17:32,291 Though the real truth behind this alleged immunity 451 01:17:32,373 --> 01:17:34,523 remains shrouded in mystery, 452 01:17:35,573 --> 01:17:39,612 it's a powerful testament to the reverence animals can command 453 01:17:39,693 --> 01:17:41,604 amongst Hindu devotees. 454 01:17:52,453 --> 01:17:56,241 Hinduism rapidly spread along the Ganges. 455 01:17:56,333 --> 01:18:00,884 And it has proved to be a valuable ally for the wildlife of the plains. 456 01:18:14,853 --> 01:18:17,321 As well as honouring animal deities, 457 01:18:17,413 --> 01:18:21,372 the faith also teaches a more general respect for nature. 458 01:18:26,413 --> 01:18:30,042 In flood plain towns, such as here in Bateshwar, 459 01:18:30,133 --> 01:18:33,205 it's remarkable how much tolerance the local people afford 460 01:18:33,293 --> 01:18:35,523 their many natural neighbours. 461 01:18:41,413 --> 01:18:45,611 Rhesus macaques are far from the most holy of animals. 462 01:18:45,693 --> 01:18:49,606 In fact, their mischievous nature can be a persistent nuisance. 463 01:18:52,733 --> 01:18:56,487 The urban troops get up to all sorts of monkey business, 464 01:18:56,573 --> 01:19:01,283 but it's their smash-and-grab approach to finding food that's the most trying. 465 01:19:49,693 --> 01:19:54,403 Once again, the light-fingered macaques get away with another free lunch. 466 01:19:59,133 --> 01:20:01,044 Yet, for the local people, 467 01:20:01,133 --> 01:20:04,887 these animal encounters are just another part of daily life. 468 01:20:07,973 --> 01:20:11,204 Over millennia, the Hindu reverence for nature 469 01:20:11,293 --> 01:20:15,411 offered the river and her wild inhabitants considerable sanctuary. 470 01:20:17,813 --> 01:20:21,931 But around a thousand years ago, things began to change. 471 01:20:26,093 --> 01:20:29,642 Waves of Muslim invaders arrived from the west 472 01:20:29,733 --> 01:20:33,009 and their influence spread right across the plains. 473 01:20:35,573 --> 01:20:38,087 As well as introducing Islam to India, 474 01:20:38,173 --> 01:20:42,644 they brought new ideas about technology, culture and art. 475 01:20:47,853 --> 01:20:51,812 The Mughals were the last and most influential of these invaders. 476 01:20:51,933 --> 01:20:53,810 And their legacy lives on 477 01:20:53,893 --> 01:20:57,852 in the most spectacular architecture of the Ganges plain. 478 01:21:02,413 --> 01:21:05,086 The intricate detailing within their buildings 479 01:21:05,173 --> 01:21:08,768 displays the Mughals' fascination with the natural world. 480 01:21:11,733 --> 01:21:16,011 But their attitude to nature was very different from the Hindus. 481 01:21:16,893 --> 01:21:21,409 Their scientific heritage compelled them to understand and master it. 482 01:21:23,533 --> 01:21:28,209 Around their palaces and tombs, they created formal paradise gardens, 483 01:21:28,333 --> 01:21:31,769 which they stocked with game captured from the plains. 484 01:21:36,133 --> 01:21:39,011 Coming from the barren deserts of Central Asia, 485 01:21:39,093 --> 01:21:42,972 the Mughals were enchanted by the rich wildlife of the Ganges. 486 01:21:47,493 --> 01:21:50,451 They were keen observers of animal behaviour, 487 01:21:50,693 --> 01:21:54,652 and are considered to have been India's first great naturalists. 488 01:22:00,573 --> 01:22:04,805 But they were even more passionate about another outdoor pursuit. 489 01:22:08,733 --> 01:22:11,247 The Mughals were obsessive hunters. 490 01:22:12,213 --> 01:22:14,169 And the more formidable the quarry, 491 01:22:14,253 --> 01:22:17,131 the greater the respect a hunter commanded. 492 01:22:19,613 --> 01:22:23,925 Mughal nobility competed to bag the largest number of big cats, 493 01:22:24,013 --> 01:22:26,811 and many notched up prodigious totals. 494 01:22:29,053 --> 01:22:32,887 But the impact their hunting had on the wildlife of the Ganges 495 01:22:32,973 --> 01:22:37,603 would pale in comparison to that of the next wave of invaders. 496 01:22:43,133 --> 01:22:47,092 The British came to India in search of commercial opportunity 497 01:22:47,173 --> 01:22:50,848 and they were quick to realise the potential of the plains. 498 01:22:51,653 --> 01:22:56,932 Agriculture grew to be big business, and wild animals were seen as vermin. 499 01:23:01,813 --> 01:23:05,089 Large carnivores became public enemy number one, 500 01:23:05,173 --> 01:23:07,767 and bounties were put on their heads. 501 01:23:10,333 --> 01:23:14,770 Today, only 350 lions still survive in India. 502 01:23:15,253 --> 01:23:18,563 But they've been wiped out entirely from the plains. 503 01:23:25,373 --> 01:23:28,206 The Indian Cheetah fared even worse. 504 01:23:28,613 --> 01:23:33,323 And by the middle of the 20th century, it was declared extinct. 505 01:23:41,213 --> 01:23:45,445 Although hunting dealt a serious blow to the wildlife of the Ganges, 506 01:23:45,533 --> 01:23:50,288 the habitat destruction under British rule took a far heavier toll. 507 01:23:51,693 --> 01:23:53,490 Elephants were put to work, 508 01:23:53,573 --> 01:23:57,248 plundering the very forest from which they'd been captured. 509 01:23:59,093 --> 01:24:01,482 But while the wilderness was disappearing, 510 01:24:01,573 --> 01:24:05,009 India was hurtling towards the industrial age. 511 01:24:10,733 --> 01:24:12,803 Timber was in huge demand, 512 01:24:12,893 --> 01:24:15,885 especially for the expanding railway network. 513 01:24:17,413 --> 01:24:22,089 During the 1870s, one million sleepers were required every year, 514 01:24:22,173 --> 01:24:25,529 for the new lines springing up across northern India. 515 01:24:29,773 --> 01:24:33,607 By the time the British left halfway through the 20th century, 516 01:24:34,093 --> 01:24:37,403 almost all the forests of the plains had disappeared 517 01:24:37,933 --> 01:24:42,006 and the elephants living within them were left homeless. 518 01:24:45,253 --> 01:24:49,132 Today, as machinery is increasingly used for heavy labour, 519 01:24:49,213 --> 01:24:52,569 even working elephants are being made redundant. 520 01:24:55,733 --> 01:24:58,645 But there's still one place along the Ganges 521 01:24:58,733 --> 01:25:03,284 where these powerful beasts of burden are traded in large numbers. 522 01:25:11,093 --> 01:25:14,802 The Sonpur Mela is the largest cattle fair in Asia. 523 01:25:15,133 --> 01:25:19,570 It started over a thousand years ago, and it has been growing ever since. 524 01:25:24,973 --> 01:25:27,248 On the first full moon in November, 525 01:25:27,333 --> 01:25:31,770 people arrive from all over northern India to haggle over livestock. 526 01:25:39,093 --> 01:25:41,482 The sheer quantity of domestic animals 527 01:25:41,573 --> 01:25:45,361 affirms their status as the dominant creatures of the plains. 528 01:25:56,093 --> 01:26:00,006 Sonpur's lively horse market provides endless entertainment 529 01:26:00,093 --> 01:26:02,049 for the festival crowds. 530 01:26:12,333 --> 01:26:16,167 But it's the elephants that are by far the biggest attraction. 531 01:26:18,573 --> 01:26:22,122 Each morning, the mahouts lead their elephants down to the river 532 01:26:22,213 --> 01:26:25,330 to be washed alongside thousands of worshippers, 533 01:26:26,293 --> 01:26:29,490 creating one of the most timeless scenes of India. 534 01:26:37,453 --> 01:26:40,650 The intimate relationship between elephant and man 535 01:26:40,733 --> 01:26:42,724 had endured for millennia. 536 01:26:42,813 --> 01:26:45,611 And these animals are still highly prized. 537 01:26:48,853 --> 01:26:53,165 In good condition, elephants are sold for as much as �10,000 538 01:26:53,253 --> 01:26:55,687 so it pays to look after them well. 539 01:26:57,853 --> 01:27:01,129 Life for captive elephants can be far easier 540 01:27:01,213 --> 01:27:04,808 than it is for the remaining wild herds of the plains. 541 01:27:09,333 --> 01:27:12,689 The Ganges continues her eastward journey 542 01:27:12,853 --> 01:27:16,892 through the endless farmland and enters Bengal. 543 01:27:26,533 --> 01:27:31,561 It's autumn time and the rice is maturing in the ubiquitous paddy fields. 544 01:27:34,893 --> 01:27:36,963 But in certain areas of Bengal, 545 01:27:37,053 --> 01:27:39,203 the villagers hurry to clear their fields 546 01:27:39,293 --> 01:27:41,682 before the rice is fully ripened. 547 01:27:44,213 --> 01:27:48,172 Night is falling and their settlements are under siege. 548 01:27:51,453 --> 01:27:54,650 They must prepare to do battle with an army of raiders 549 01:27:54,733 --> 01:27:57,531 that strike under the cover of darkness. 550 01:27:59,293 --> 01:28:03,730 It is a war that will be waged every night for the next six months. 551 01:28:06,573 --> 01:28:10,452 Lookouts scan for any signs of hostile activity, 552 01:28:10,533 --> 01:28:13,331 while the rest of the men prepare their weapons. 553 01:28:19,413 --> 01:28:22,246 The enemy is marching onto the battlefields. 554 01:28:22,333 --> 01:28:25,803 But they're too distant to be picked out by the sentry. 555 01:28:27,533 --> 01:28:29,763 Only image-intensifying cameras 556 01:28:29,853 --> 01:28:33,528 reveal the true nature of the advancing army. 557 01:28:41,173 --> 01:28:43,403 Led by the normally solitary males, 558 01:28:43,493 --> 01:28:47,327 smaller groups join forces to create a hundred-strong herd, 559 01:28:47,413 --> 01:28:50,291 with enough might to take on the villagers. 560 01:28:54,453 --> 01:28:58,969 Their joy at finding food belies the severity of their situation. 561 01:29:00,813 --> 01:29:04,123 Farming has claimed so much wilderness from the plains, 562 01:29:04,213 --> 01:29:08,365 that the few remaining wild herds are forced to raid crops. 563 01:29:18,573 --> 01:29:20,643 (MAN YELLING) 564 01:29:20,733 --> 01:29:23,042 (SPEAKING IN BENGALl) 565 01:29:25,293 --> 01:29:26,772 (ALL YELLING) 566 01:29:28,493 --> 01:29:30,768 The villagers must chase the elephants away 567 01:29:30,853 --> 01:29:33,606 before they lose too much of their crop. 568 01:29:35,213 --> 01:29:37,408 But it's a dangerous mission. 569 01:29:38,253 --> 01:29:42,292 These hungry and desperate elephants can become extremely aggressive. 570 01:29:47,173 --> 01:29:49,004 (ELEPHANTS TRUMPETING) 571 01:29:53,173 --> 01:29:56,722 The same people that revere Ganesh, the elephant god, 572 01:29:56,813 --> 01:30:00,931 have little choice but to do battle with his earthly incarnation. 573 01:30:11,133 --> 01:30:13,124 Every year in Bengal alone, 574 01:30:13,213 --> 01:30:17,411 the conflict can claim up to 100 lives from each side. 575 01:30:28,373 --> 01:30:32,048 Tonight, most of the crop has been saved without bloodshed. 576 01:30:32,493 --> 01:30:34,609 But the elephants are still hungry 577 01:30:34,693 --> 01:30:38,003 and long-term peace will be far harder to secure. 578 01:30:50,413 --> 01:30:53,086 As the Ganges continues through Bengal, 579 01:30:53,173 --> 01:30:55,846 a major channel known as the Hooghly river 580 01:30:55,933 --> 01:31:00,404 splits from the main waterway and heads south towards the sea. 581 01:31:01,613 --> 01:31:04,525 Before the Hooghly empties into the Bay of Bengal, 582 01:31:04,613 --> 01:31:07,207 it passes through Calcutta, 583 01:31:07,293 --> 01:31:09,761 the largest city in eastern India. 584 01:31:13,813 --> 01:31:16,486 Once the capital of the British Raj, 585 01:31:16,573 --> 01:31:21,647 today this seething metropolis is home to nearly 15 million people. 586 01:31:25,173 --> 01:31:29,564 Technology and industry rule here, and are helping shape the country 587 01:31:29,653 --> 01:31:32,929 into one of the fastest-growing economies on Earth. 588 01:31:37,853 --> 01:31:42,881 Calcutta is a fry cry from wilderness, yet life still thrives here. 589 01:31:45,213 --> 01:31:48,330 And all these people still depend on the Ganges 590 01:31:48,413 --> 01:31:51,166 for almost all the produce they consume. 591 01:32:13,413 --> 01:32:17,691 For many animals, the pace of life on the plains has become too fast, 592 01:32:18,733 --> 01:32:21,406 but some are more than able to keep up. 593 01:32:25,933 --> 01:32:28,606 Even in the most man-made environments, 594 01:32:28,693 --> 01:32:32,925 India's wildlife manages to surprise and inspire. 595 01:32:52,453 --> 01:32:56,765 This may seem an unlikely setting for such a profusion of life, 596 01:32:56,853 --> 01:33:01,165 but these mountains of waste are home for those who must survive 597 01:33:01,253 --> 01:33:03,164 on what others discard. 598 01:33:06,453 --> 01:33:09,331 It's an uncomfortable reality of modern India 599 01:33:09,413 --> 01:33:13,406 that some have so little, they're forced to scratch a living here. 600 01:33:16,933 --> 01:33:19,845 Yet, for others, this is heaven on Earth. 601 01:33:25,773 --> 01:33:28,207 Black kites are expert scavengers 602 01:33:28,293 --> 01:33:30,284 and they swarm in their thousands 603 01:33:30,373 --> 01:33:33,331 scanning for rich pickings amongst the decay. 604 01:33:43,533 --> 01:33:47,287 For opportunists who can compete in these brave new worlds, 605 01:33:47,373 --> 01:33:50,331 this is a way of life worth fighting for. 606 01:34:13,933 --> 01:34:16,242 Since people first arrived here, 607 01:34:16,333 --> 01:34:20,929 life on the Ganges plains has transformed beyond recognition. 608 01:34:23,453 --> 01:34:26,126 Yet it's always remained abundant, 609 01:34:26,213 --> 01:34:29,683 and the river's gift of life has never run dry. 610 01:34:30,693 --> 01:34:34,322 But for how long will her benevolence continue to flow? 611 01:34:48,693 --> 01:34:51,161 When a Hindu leaves this world, 612 01:34:51,253 --> 01:34:55,849 the most auspicious place to be cremated is on the banks of the Ganges. 613 01:35:01,533 --> 01:35:06,368 Here, the body returns to the same waters that brought it life. 614 01:35:14,853 --> 01:35:19,483 The soul is absolved of sin and blessed by the goddess Ganga 615 01:35:20,133 --> 01:35:23,762 to ensure a safe passage into the next existence. 616 01:35:37,413 --> 01:35:41,770 Through the eternal cycle of life, death and re-birth, 617 01:35:41,853 --> 01:35:45,892 the Ganges remains at the very heart of the Hindu faith. 618 01:35:46,733 --> 01:35:50,521 And it's this sacred connection the people share with their river 619 01:35:50,613 --> 01:35:53,969 that can still save her from the pressures she faces. 620 01:35:58,013 --> 01:36:04,009 As a new dawn rises over the river, she flows towards an uncertain future. 621 01:36:05,973 --> 01:36:08,089 The demands of a growing population 622 01:36:08,173 --> 01:36:11,688 are poisoning her waters and running the river dry. 623 01:36:14,853 --> 01:36:17,162 But all is not lost. 624 01:36:26,133 --> 01:36:27,964 The Ganges river dolphin 625 01:36:28,053 --> 01:36:31,841 is one of the most majestic creatures found in these waters. 626 01:36:33,533 --> 01:36:37,890 And it has survived the many changes through which the river has flowed. 627 01:36:41,853 --> 01:36:45,050 Today, like so many animals of the Ganges, 628 01:36:45,133 --> 01:36:48,603 these ancient mammals are vanishing from her waters. 629 01:36:53,173 --> 01:36:55,562 But that any dolphins survive at all 630 01:36:55,653 --> 01:37:00,852 brings hope that people can still make space for their unique wildlife. 631 01:37:05,213 --> 01:37:09,047 As the river approaches the great wilderness of her delta, 632 01:37:09,133 --> 01:37:11,772 she enters her final incarnation. 633 01:37:15,613 --> 01:37:18,764 The Ganges becomes a vast waterway 634 01:37:18,853 --> 01:37:23,369 and unleashes her awesome power to both create life, 635 01:37:24,893 --> 01:37:26,963 and take it away. 56861

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