All language subtitles for Eaters Guide to the World S01E03 HULU-ION10[eztv.re]

[dog barking]

MAYA RUDOLPH:
In New York City,

the hours between
last call and first light

are a time of increased ambiguity.

In other words...

[cats snarling]

...shit can get weird.

[cats continue snarling]

The bars are winding down.
The subways have been cleaned.

The pigeons are definitely up to no good.

Streets that have been bustling
all day are now...

Well, they're still bustling...
[people speaking indistinctly]

...with college partiers

and cabbies on night shift

waiting to drive their asses home.

And your bodega guy and his cat.

[cat meows]

This is the city
that never sleeps, remember?

That's New York's whole thing.

[sirens blaring]

You might not be able to find
a fancy steak dinner at this hour,

but I promise
you can find something even better.

♪ upbeat music playing ♪

‐ Mmm.

So good. So good.

♪

MAYA:
Do you see that,

under the 7 train in Jackson Heights?

That's a truck serving tacos so good
you might just shed a little tear.

‐ Mmm.

MAYA:
Ooh, she cute.

MAN:
That's the birria.

This is exactly how they sell it
in Tijuana.

Classic onions, cilantro, and sauce.
Nothing else.

The more important about
how you make the birria,

I can give you the recipe
but it's the love you put in there.

MAYA: So José here
has almost 20 years of experience

cooking in the best restaurants
in New York City.

He was at Lupa and Del Posto,

but now he's running things
out of his own truck

with his brother, Jesus.

This Tijuana‐style birria is made
by dipping tortillas in beef fat,

throwing them on the griddle,

and stuffing them
with rich, chili‐laced beef stew.

Uhh. Yeah, I could, uh...
I could eat all of that.

JOSÉ: When I come back to New York,
I still have this tacos in my mind.

And the only way to eat them again
is if I make them myself.

And I started making for my coworkers
and they liked it.

They tell me, "Why you don't sell
this tacos? You would make money."

That's how they convinced me
to start with this.

Then we are here and I'm so glad
about this neighborhood.

They give me a very good welcome.

The impression the customer do to me
when they start eating my tacos,

I get so many feelings inside.
It's like, "Oh, this is good."

[both speaking Spanish]

MAYA: In Tijuana
birria is usually eaten with consommé,

a red cilantro‐y broth
that turns a good taco into a great one.

If you know what's up,

you dip those bad boys
in consommé between each bite.

Mmm‐hmm.
That's right. Just like that.

Dr. Steven here, he knows what's up.

Some might even call him an expert
on the subject of tacos.

‐ Different corporations in history

have removed Mexican people
further and further.

And that removes
all the history of the people

that brought the food in the first place.

And that's called de‐contextualization.

MAYA: Yeah.
This guy teaches a class on taco literacy.

But you don't need a degree
to enjoy these tacos.

Although it might give you
a deeper appreciation.

DR. STEVEN ALVAREZ:
The tradition of birria,

is it comes from mining communities
in Jalisco.

It's a very hearty stew.
A working class kind of food.

As I lift it up, you can see the beef
just kind of falling apart to the spoon.

Beautiful, beautiful.

I'm having a quasi‐religious experience.
Excuse me.

Wow. Oh, man.

Mmm.

Oh.

DR. ALVAREZ:
The thing about this is that

there's a lot that people can learn
about Mexican people through the food.

For people to understand us,
you have to understand our food.

You have to understand the culture.

The best way to measure it is on
the happy faces of the folks who try it.

‐ Mmm.

Mmm.

Oh, my God.

The first day they open,
I was here with them

and I‐‐ literally, I cried.

Because I have to go all the way
back to TJ to have this beautiful taco.

We don't have in New York.

I feel love into these tacos.

I will say it is the same
as you will get it in Tijuana.

MAYA: Look, late‐night eating
can get, well, emotional.

If you ever find yourself crying
on the streets at 2:00 a. m.,

I hope it's over the pure beauty
of a taco made with love.

JOSÉ:
I feel so happy when I hear this.

I mean, it's like, something like,
it's better than money we make over here.

So I'm happy.

♪ upbeat music playing ♪

MAYA:
In the blurry hours after 2:00 a. m.,

as club goers and bar hoppers
begin to make their way home...

MAN:
Should we get more beer?

MAYA:
...cab drivers have to deal with a lot.

‐ [pop top snaps]
‐ [man yells]

Oh, and Lord knows they need a break.

Luckily, they have a spot
where the vibes are good,

the chai is hot,

and the minton, oh, it's bad.

This is the only after‐hours
badminton club in New York City,

where a lot of taxi drivers
come during the slow hours

to get some exercise and hang out.

♪ upbeat music playing ♪

You don't have to be a cab driver
to play here.

But if you are,
you'll probably see a lot of your homeys.

‐ Uh. Yo, Tayyab?

So what do you do?
Like, you do taxi, right?

Okay. And Shihab?

Taxi, okay.

He drive, I think, taxi as well.

They do Uber.

He drive a cab.

And what about you?

Mmm?

Student, okay.

But you do have a...
like, job? Like taxi driver?

Not a job. Okay.

So, yeah, 95% people are cab driver.

MAYA: Meet Jack,
the night manager at the badminton club.

He's also a taxi driver.

Jack loves his job.

He loves the atmosphere.
He loves the night time.

JACK: I'm kind of a late‐night fan
and I do late‐night work

and do late‐night activities.

MAYA: He comes here to get exercise,
to take a break from the slow taxi shifts,

and to admire his giant racket

and giant shoe.

But perhaps, most importantly,
he comes here to chill with his friends.

JACK: I invite all of my friends here
to come join with me, cheers with me,

love each other,

and have some chai tea together.

We are American‐Bengali.
[speaking Bengali]

[in English]
That's the quality time.

‐ [in English]
Very traditional Bangladeshi food.

You dip the bread in a tea
and you drink it.

[speaking Bengali]

MAYA:
Everyone's got their own chai recipe,

but here's the deal of Boishakhi,

a no‐frills Bangladeshi joint
in Astoria, Queens.

They mix Red Label Indian tea
with hot, steamy milk,

and then spike it
with a healthy dose of sugar.

And to balance out the creamy sweetness,
you need a fresh lentil puri.

I want to cuddle up with that
and go night‐night.

[speaking Bengali]

‐ [in English]
Thank you for the food.

[Jack speaking Bengali]

MAYA:
At 3:30, some places in New York

are still what you might call
a category‐five shit show.

MAN:
Slow down, man.

♪ loud lively music playing ♪

MAYA: There's definitely
some fist‐pumping happening.

$30 drinks are getting spilled.

Hey, watch it.

But some people prefer nightlife
in a more intimate setting.

♪ dramatic choral music playing ♪

Karaoke performed at this level
is a feat of athleticism.

Sure. You could refuel
with a sad dollar slice of pizza,

but in Koreatown, even this late,
you don't have to settle for sad.

[laughter]

MAN 1: You guys ready to eat now?
MAN 2: Let's do it.

MAN 1: Let's go. That's right.
MAN 2: Let's eat.

CHARLIE: Right this way, guys. Come on in.
Thanks for waiting. [speaking Korean]

[laughter]

MIKE: We got brisket.
We also have ribeyes.

We also have boneless short ribs

and we got pork belly sliced
or big thick slabs.

We also have marinated pork collar.

And... last but not least,
we have beef tongue.

MAYA: This guy, Mike,
is the executive chef at Baekjeong,

a very special barbecue spot
here in K‐town.

MIKE: You know, there's always pockets
of Manhattan where it's always busy

and we have karaoke bars

and rooms that stay open
till 4:00 or 5:00 in the morning too.

And the people that leave those places,
they need a place to go eat.

They don't want diner food.

Korean place like us, you know,
has barbecue at that hour.

Who wouldn't want barbecue?

YOUNGMI: What do you guys want to drink?
You want soju?

MAN:
Let's do soju.

[indistinct conversation]

MAN 2: I don't think
I've ever seen you drink this much.

‐ We‐‐ We get a lot of‐‐
We get a lot of good characters over here.

MAYA:
Charlie here runs this place.

Sometimes it feels more like
a meat‐themed nightclub than a restaurant.

CHARLIE: We're going to cook everything.
We're going to cut everything.

All you got to do is eat.

‐ Yeah.

MAYA: Since Baekjeong won't kick you out
until almost sunrise,

it's frequented by karaoke legends,

random drunk people,
stand‐up comics, and...

‐ We're going to drink until 7:00 a. m.

MAYA: Youngmi,
who right now is all of the above.

YOUNGMI:
Uh... Yeah.

Korean people are, like, really hard
on women and their bodies.

And so I read as very large to them.

And I was in Korea, like, a few months ago
and I walked into a Korean restaurant

and the woman working there was like,
"Ha‐ha, we're going to need more beef."

[audience laughing]

Um, but then I ate a bunch of beef.

[audience laughing]

MAYA:
Aside from stand‐up,

Youngmi hosts a podcast
with Brian here called "Feeling Asian,"

where they discuss everything
from Korean moms to Korean food.

And they know a thing or two
about good Korean barbecue.

CHARLIE: Guys, we have some brisket here
and then a short ribs right over here.

YOUNGMI:
Brisket!

BRIAN: It's brisket.
And it's called chadol baegi in Korean.

So think of it as like an appetizer
because it just cooks so quickly.

YOUNGMI: Like, when I lived in Korea,
we would have dinner

and then we would go out to a club.

And then at like 3:00 or 4:00,
we'd have a full blown other meal...

BRIAN: Seriously?
‐ ...which is what we're doing now.

BRIAN: Oh!

MIKE: Well, pretty much, we spend
half the day slicing.

8:00 a. m., we finish at 4:00 p. m.

just so we can have
one night's worth of meat for service.

Which is 96 pounds of just this cut.

CHARLIE: I think that difference
that we wanted to bring here

was a complete barbecue experience.

Not just the barbecue, but the banchan.

MAYA:
This is banchan.

And so is this.

Technically, banchan means side dishes,
but they're more than that.

They're snacks. They're condiments.

They give a meal flavor, texture.

Basically, they are a counterpart
to all that sizzling meat.

BRIAN: Yeah. Honestly, that's like
the mark of a bad Korean restaurant

is that they charge you
for any of the banchan

or if they charge for rice.

MAN:
Oh, it looks good.

BRIAN: Yeah. So this is steamed egg.
That's just cooking.

Korean food I think
is like a great drunk food

because it's meant to be very messy.

And there's a lot of spoons touching,
a lot of shame.

It's like the messy sex of food.

SERVER:
Also, here's the lunchbox.

[all cheering]

MAYA: The lunchbox dish is a throwback
to the old school... literally.

Kids would bring
these metal boxes to school

and reheat them over the radiator.

It's quintessential comfort food.

ALL:
Shake. Shake. Shake.

MAYA:
Oh. Okay. Get it, server.

Hey, I see you. Go ahead. Okay.

‐ It's like from my parents' era Korea.

Even though I never grew up with it,
it's so nostalgic to look at it.

MAN:
That looks good, dude.

BRIAN: Yo, this looks like what is in
my lunchbox after I run with my backpack.

[all laughing]

‐ How the hell are these people
out here this late?

[indistinct conversation]

And they're still sitting there
through a meal.

The party doesn't stop for them.

It's almost as if we're in Korea.

Because out there,
it's just nonstop partying too.

MAN:
Do the bars not close?

‐ In Korea, never.

‐ It's definitely not someplace
you would bring your girlfriend

to have a quiet dinner.

[laughing]

You have to be in the mood to drink.

It's going to be a little boisterous
for some people.

[whooping]

You know that you're going
to be in for a party,

but it's definitely fun.

BRIAN:
This place is the spot.

This place has the best service,
the best quality of meat.

And they're totally okay with us
being chaotic legends right now.

MAN:
I'm afraid I'm going to get so drunk

I'm going to cry on Hulu.

[laughter]

‐ Can you not?

MAYA:
Hell's Kitchen, as the name suggests,

wasn't always the kind of place
you'd want to be at 4:00 a. m.

[thud]

MIZ CRACKER:
Now, those are some flat tires.

[all laughing]

All right, children.

JAN SPORT:
Oh! Whoa.

MAYA:
Now, it's... well, obviously fabulous.

And anyone ignoring this neighborhood
because of its name

is missing out on some
of the best drag in New York.

A beloved center
of the city's LGBTQ+ community...

MIZ CRACKER:
Jan, you and I have the sensible shoes.

JAN SPORT:
Yeah. [laughs]

MAYA: ...and a late‐night party
at the kind of place

where you won't get
a noise complaint from the manager.

A place like Empanada Mama.

MAN: How are you?
QUEENS: Hi!

‐ You all look fantastic tonight.

‐ Thank you.

MAN: Any questions about the menu
I can help you with?

‐ Oh, no, we know this
inside and out, right?

MAYA:
Open 24/7, Empanada Mama,

one of the city's few
Colombian‐focused restaurants,

serves more than 40 types
of hot flaky pastries

filled with seafood,

buffalo chicken,

mac and cheese.

Basically, if you can eat it,

Mama can stuff it in an empanada.

‐ Okay. I'm going to have
the caramel and cheese,

and I'm also going to have
the spinach and cheese.

JAN SPORT:
Oh, my gosh.

MIZ CRACKER:
And cheese.

[laughter]

MAYA:
Please, welcome Miz Cracker.

Writer, performer,

queen of our hearts and the stage.

‐ Oh, if you're a drag queen,
you got to live out of your suitcase.

That's just the way it is.

I have Christmas lights.

I have Hanukkah candles.

And now I'm going to dig around here

and figure out
what on earth I'm going to wear.

I think I'm going
to start with these titties

that my sister made for me.

Ooh, that's the good one.

I mean, we came here to die.
Like, let's do it in style.

Okay, my titties are a little bit bigger
than they were back then.

Let's see what happens.

All right.

Here she is. She's ready.
Now she's a woman.

She's ready to go.

Therapy is known for its late‐night shows.

It is a late‐night hot spot.

If you have a show at Therapy,
you're living your drag life.

[hair spray spraying]

When we are working
a late night like this,

it's just nightlife people.

‐ It's just crazy people.
‐ Right. Yeah.

‐ And then when you're out
in the world after,

don't you feel like Cinderella
coming home from the ball,

just, like, full rags again?

‐ The sun comes up.

My face is halfway off.

And the people who are going to their job
at 4:00 or 5:00 in the morning...

‐ Yes.
‐ are looking at me like,
"Wow, they must've had a great night."

I was like,
"Nope, just a normal night at work."

[audience cheering]

♪ upbeat music playing ♪

♪

‐ I want to bring to the stage

our very special guest tonight. Okay.

You know her from New York City,
you know her from RuPaul's Drag Race.

Everybody, please make some noise

for the one, the only, Miz Cracker!

[audience cheering]

Yes. Keep it coming. Make some more noise.
I know you can be louder than that.

♪ upbeat music playing ♪

‐ This is so amazing.

Therapy is packed like my asshole
on a Friday night.

Just...
[audience laughing]

♪ "Everybody Party Tonight"
by Cobra Man playing ♪

Come on, you guys.

Hell's Kitchen is one
of the only places in New York

you can do a late‐night show

and then find something
to eat right next door.

And that is why I love performing there.

[laughter]

MAN: Do you come here
all the time after your gigs?

‐ I feel like I'm here
at least once a week.

IZZY UNCUT: You'll be here
and you'll look around

and you'll be like,
"Oh, there's Pixie. There's Tina."

It's like every other drag queen
in the city.

It's constantly‐‐
they're just, like, swarming here.

‐ It's the unofficial after party
of all the shows.

‐ Absolutely.

My goodness.

‐ Hey, ladies. There you are.
JAN SPORT: Thank you.

‐ Of course.

It's really cool to see everyone
just smashed together here.

That's the thing I love about here,

it's just the amazing customers
that come in here.

It's just like a family.

‐ Thank you so much. I appreciate it.
‐ Hey. Of course.

‐ Good to see you.
‐ You as well.

‐ You always make me the best drinks.
I appreciate it.

Thanks for always showing love.

‐ Thank you.
Thank you for continuing to join us.

‐ Have a good night.
‐ Yeah, of course. I love your outfit.

‐ Thank you.
‐ [Rob chuckles]

MAYA: Empanadas are a staple
in Latinx communities across the globe,

made in all different sizes
with all different fillings.

STUART: See all of these empanadas,
we identify them with the holes in them.

So each empanada has got a different mark.

There's 40 of them.

Imagine how long
it takes to train someone.

It's like their head is blowing up
at the end of a Friday night shift

once they've gone through all of that.

[Stuart laughing]

JAN SPORT:
Is that the caramel cheese?

‐ Yeah. I thought it would be
too sweet, but it's just right.

JAN SPORT:
I enjoy my favorites.

‐ Yeah. You find your favorite five
and then you try the Viagra ones

'cause you're like, "What is that?"

‐ [whispering]
A Viagra.

It'll make you really happy.

MAYA: If you want to know,
and of course you do,

a Viagra empanada
doesn't actually contain D‐pills.

STUART:
The Viagra is shrimp and crab.

It's our biggest selling empanada.

MIZ CRACKER:
Oh, this is delicious.

MAYA: Whoever says nothing good
happens after 4:00 a. m.

is a goddamn liar.

We're in empanada heaven, baby.

[all laughing]

♪ mellow music playing ♪

MAYA:
Around this time of night or morning,

the last calls have been called,

the Ubers have been called,

even some booties have been called.

But for this baker,
the day is just beginning.

DANIELLE: I would describe the life
of a baker as a little sleepless.

To start my day normally,
our shift starts around 3:30.

♪

Usually, I am the first to arrive.

And then I'm by myself
until around 6:00 a. m.

I, like, always have to
kit out my clothes in, like, a little area

so that I don't wake my boyfriend up.

MAYA: Danielle runs
the pastry program at Win Son Bakery,

a Taiwanese‐centered cafe in Brooklyn.

But her pastry chef dreams
date back to the tender age of 12.

She headed to the Culinary Institute
of America to hone her skills.

And she's now living her dream,

which apparently involves
using a blowtorch at 4:00 a. m.

♪ "Like the Sun" by Tanukichan playing ♪

♪ And, ooh, to be turned ♪

DANIELLE: Right now,
we are prepping the laminated pollo bao

so you want the butter to be pliable.

Like, you should be able to kind of
do, like, the roller‐coaster move with it.

♪ Don't know where you could sit ♪

♪ So carry... ♪

‐ When I was in this one city in Taiwan,

Josh's mother was like, "We're going
to this one bakery called Angel Bake."

We opened up this pastry,

and it was laminated inside.

And I was like, "This is the coolest thing
I've ever seen in my life."

I was very fortunate
to go to Taiwan with Josh,

which was a mind‐blowing experience.

‐ Hey, Briana.

MAYA:
This is Josh,

Danielle's friend
and the co‐owner of Win Son Bakery.

As a Taiwanese kid
growing up in the United States,

he craved American food,

especially lasagna.

But as a college student,

he found a new appreciation
for his food roots.

‐ The menu kind of runs
the gamut of fusion

to more traditional representations.

We are just trying to push
Taiwanese cuisine here in New York.

MAYA: Win Son is seriously upgrading
the Brooklyn breakfast scene

with dishes like
this bacon, egg, and cheese

wrapped in a traditional
Taiwanese sesame pancake.

And its cousin, the PTEC,

a pork trotter, egg and cheese.

They make a giant pork blunt
out of braised pork knuckle.

Then they slice it up, fry it,

and slap it on a bun.

Good morning!

JOSH:
Opening the bakery lends itself

to operating
at these unusual twilight hours.

It definitely gives us

an opportunity to kind of
embrace the city at that time.

MAYA:
As soon as the doors open at 7:00 a. m.,

the breakfast crowd starts rolling in.

‐ Hi, how are you?

MAYA: It's like
the supreme drop of breakfast foods.

One of the most popular items on the menu
is Danielle's take on mochi doughnuts.

Unlike a regular old doughnut,

the mochi dough
has a springy, almost bouncy consistency.

Kind of like if a cloud and a Twizzler
had a baby that looked like a doughnut.

This little lady's coated
in toasty, black sesame sugar.

Hmm, look at that.

‐ It's Asian comfort food for us.

I mean, they do their twist,
but it's basically comfort food for me.

And that's always a plus in the morning.

He has his opinions too.

This is the pork Fan Tuan.

It's basically a rice burrito.

MAYA:
It gets hit with some salted radishes,

scallions, rousong AKA pork floss,

a crawler, and a little sweet soy sauce.

Then it's all rolled up
and rolled to order.

KENNY:
Smells good.

Hmm, soft...

and crunchy.

That's a tattoo idea. Soft and crunchy.

I should get that tattooed
somewhere on me.

JOSH: When we opened, we kind of thought
that the Taiwanese Americans,

you know, kids like me,

would, you know,
be the more receiving ones

because of the fusion aspect of it.

And the Taiwanese folks
would kind of be like, you know,

"This is not traditional or authentic, "

but it's quite the opposite.

It's the Taiwanese folks
that come that are like,

"That's what we care about.
Representation."

♪ mellow music playing ♪

MAYA: Most people,
they'll never see this New York,

the one that wakes up
when you're supposed to be sleeping.

It's not always glamorous
to be up in these hours.

Although, you know, sometimes it is.

Eating this late
is about more than nourishment.

It can be about finding
a flicker of home in the city.

‐ Hmm.

‐ Enjoy, cheers.

MAYA: Or it can be an antidote
to a night spent

getting a little too awesome.

[cheering]
A way to keep the party going.

Or just a moment of peace
before the rest of the city wakes up.

As the sun rises,

a whole new crop of people
are starting their days.

Commuters rushing to work
past night owls stumbling home.

Dollar slices are traded for doughnuts.

And in this moment,
as dawn gives way to daylight,

we're reminded
that there's so much life in the city.

And so many stories and meals
we're sleeping through...

‐ Mmm.

‐ ...all the time.

MIZ CRACKER:
I do have a black belt in karate.

Yeah, I studied for 20 years.

I have a wig on,
but I also have brass knuckles.

I've never had to use them.

The only time I've ever been approached
in the city at night while I'm by myself

is, like, a proposition.

I'm like, "Hmm...

Maybe."

[laughing]

Just kidding. That's not true.

I've always said yes.

[laughing]