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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:00,227 --> 00:00:02,807 (wind howling) 2 00:00:06,992 --> 00:00:10,662 (dramatic orchestral music) 3 00:01:08,170 --> 00:01:09,450 - [Narrator] Our coast-to-coast journey 4 00:01:09,450 --> 00:01:11,520 starts in the south-east of Scotland. 5 00:01:12,360 --> 00:01:15,710 From Edinburgh, we follow the Forth River upstream, 6 00:01:15,710 --> 00:01:18,080 past a host of historic landmarks, 7 00:01:18,080 --> 00:01:20,300 including its famous bridge. 8 00:01:21,290 --> 00:01:23,150 Inland across the Lowlands, 9 00:01:23,150 --> 00:01:24,910 is the Falkirk Wheel, 10 00:01:24,910 --> 00:01:28,860 the only canal boat lift of its kind in the world. 11 00:01:28,860 --> 00:01:31,700 West of Scotland's biggest city, Glasgow, 12 00:01:31,700 --> 00:01:33,540 is Faslane Naval Base, 13 00:01:33,540 --> 00:01:37,020 that's home to Britain's nuclear submarines. 14 00:01:37,020 --> 00:01:40,110 Crossing the rugged islands and peninsulas of the Hebrides, 15 00:01:40,110 --> 00:01:42,320 we end at a mystical sea cave, 16 00:01:42,320 --> 00:01:45,980 that's inspired artists and writers for centuries. 17 00:01:48,427 --> 00:01:51,837 (traditional folk music) 18 00:01:54,687 --> 00:01:56,937 As far as historians can tell, 19 00:01:56,940 --> 00:01:59,530 the modern sport of golf was born in Scotland. 20 00:02:00,790 --> 00:02:03,950 And here on the east coast, near the border with England, 21 00:02:03,950 --> 00:02:06,400 lies one of the world's most famous golf courses. 22 00:02:07,930 --> 00:02:08,760 Muirfield. 23 00:02:08,763 --> 00:02:11,523 (stirring music) 24 00:02:11,520 --> 00:02:15,500 It's hosted no less than 15 Open Championships, 25 00:02:15,500 --> 00:02:19,260 as well as being home to the oldest golf club in the world, 26 00:02:19,260 --> 00:02:22,200 The Honorable Company of Edinburgh Golfers, 27 00:02:22,200 --> 00:02:24,890 whose records go back to 1744. 28 00:02:29,770 --> 00:02:30,600 Following the coastline into 29 00:02:30,603 --> 00:02:32,853 the mouth of the Forth Estuary, 30 00:02:32,850 --> 00:02:35,820 the twin chimneys of Cockenzie power station, 31 00:02:35,820 --> 00:02:37,520 are a distinctive landmark. 32 00:02:40,750 --> 00:02:44,580 In 2005, the coal-fired facility was reported to be 33 00:02:44,580 --> 00:02:47,720 the UK's least carbon-efficient power station. 34 00:02:51,870 --> 00:02:54,960 It's now set to close by 2016, 35 00:02:54,960 --> 00:02:57,900 with plans for a gas-powered replacement. 36 00:02:57,898 --> 00:03:02,218 (dramatic percussive music) 37 00:03:02,220 --> 00:03:04,500 The neighboring town of Prestonpans, 38 00:03:04,500 --> 00:03:06,900 which dates back to the 11th century, 39 00:03:06,900 --> 00:03:11,320 gained the attention of local press on Halloween 2004, 40 00:03:12,180 --> 00:03:14,630 when there was finally a public declaration 41 00:03:14,630 --> 00:03:17,460 of the innocence of 81 Scottish women, 42 00:03:17,460 --> 00:03:19,430 who'd been convicted of witchcraft, 43 00:03:19,430 --> 00:03:23,080 and executed back in the 16th and 17th centuries. 44 00:03:28,660 --> 00:03:32,150 Set deep on the Forth Estuary, is Edinburgh, 45 00:03:32,150 --> 00:03:33,620 the capital of Scotland. 46 00:03:37,060 --> 00:03:39,510 The city is dominated by a volcano, 47 00:03:39,510 --> 00:03:43,370 that was last active over 300 million years ago. 48 00:03:46,920 --> 00:03:49,040 Steeped in myths and legends, 49 00:03:49,040 --> 00:03:52,660 it's even been mentioned as a possible location for Camelot, 50 00:03:52,660 --> 00:03:55,300 the castle and court of King Arthur, 51 00:03:55,300 --> 00:03:57,770 hence its name, Arthur's Seat. 52 00:03:58,800 --> 00:04:00,710 It looms over the city. 53 00:04:05,410 --> 00:04:09,150 Edinburgh has a population of less than half a million, 54 00:04:09,150 --> 00:04:12,280 making it a small capital by European standards. 55 00:04:13,684 --> 00:04:17,174 (light acoustic music) 56 00:04:17,170 --> 00:04:18,810 But despite its size, 57 00:04:18,810 --> 00:04:21,460 it's the most visited city in the United Kingdom, 58 00:04:21,460 --> 00:04:22,430 after London. 59 00:04:29,080 --> 00:04:32,190 It's helped in part by the Edinburgh Festival, 60 00:04:32,190 --> 00:04:35,190 the biggest arts and culture event in the world, 61 00:04:35,190 --> 00:04:38,370 attracting as many tourists as there are residents. 62 00:04:44,180 --> 00:04:47,750 And sitting on top of another long-extinct volcano, 63 00:04:47,750 --> 00:04:51,160 is the symbol of the city, Edinburgh Castle. 64 00:04:52,440 --> 00:04:54,130 After centuries of battle, 65 00:04:54,130 --> 00:04:56,600 it now enjoys a more sedate role, 66 00:04:56,600 --> 00:04:59,030 as Edinburgh's biggest historic attraction. 67 00:05:00,550 --> 00:05:02,820 It's at the heart of a city that has one of 68 00:05:02,820 --> 00:05:06,640 the highest concentrations of listed buildings in the world, 69 00:05:06,640 --> 00:05:08,600 around four and a half thousand. 70 00:05:11,040 --> 00:05:14,030 The 16th century Old Town still retains 71 00:05:14,030 --> 00:05:17,650 the original medieval plan of streets and market squares. 72 00:05:18,900 --> 00:05:20,470 Built on a narrow ridge, 73 00:05:20,470 --> 00:05:22,710 the space restriction led to some of 74 00:05:22,710 --> 00:05:24,760 the earliest high-rise buildings, 75 00:05:24,760 --> 00:05:26,790 reaching up to 15 floors. 76 00:05:30,510 --> 00:05:34,210 The central area of Edinburgh is known as the New Town, 77 00:05:34,210 --> 00:05:36,010 though it was mostly constructed over 78 00:05:36,010 --> 00:05:38,100 the 18th and 19th centuries. 79 00:05:44,530 --> 00:05:47,910 It's considered to be a masterpiece of city planning, 80 00:05:47,910 --> 00:05:50,460 and stands as one of the finest examples 81 00:05:50,460 --> 00:05:52,360 of Georgian architecture in the world. 82 00:05:54,170 --> 00:05:57,740 In 1995, both the old and new towns 83 00:05:57,740 --> 00:06:00,400 were declared World Heritage Sites. 84 00:06:08,940 --> 00:06:11,430 To the west of Edinburgh, along the Estuary, 85 00:06:11,430 --> 00:06:15,310 is this fine example of 19th century landscape design. 86 00:06:15,309 --> 00:06:18,629 (bright symphonic music) 87 00:06:18,630 --> 00:06:21,250 The park surrounds Dalmeny House, 88 00:06:21,250 --> 00:06:23,640 the first mansion in Scotland to be built in 89 00:06:23,640 --> 00:06:25,290 the Tudor Revival style. 90 00:06:28,400 --> 00:06:32,640 It's been home to the Earls of Rosebery since 1817, 91 00:06:32,640 --> 00:06:34,320 when the house was completed. 92 00:06:37,680 --> 00:06:40,960 Its most famous resident was the 5th Earl of Rosebery, 93 00:06:40,960 --> 00:06:44,240 who by all accounts was a celebrity in his time. 94 00:06:47,220 --> 00:06:48,840 He is supposed to have said 95 00:06:48,840 --> 00:06:51,040 that he had three ambitions in life. 96 00:06:51,040 --> 00:06:52,680 To be prime minister, 97 00:06:52,680 --> 00:06:54,400 to marry an heiress, 98 00:06:54,400 --> 00:06:57,450 and to win Britain's greatest horse race, the Derby. 99 00:06:58,420 --> 00:07:00,270 He managed all three. 100 00:07:01,680 --> 00:07:04,230 He was in office in 1894, 101 00:07:04,230 --> 00:07:06,260 won the Derby three times, 102 00:07:06,260 --> 00:07:08,450 and married Hannah de Rothschild, 103 00:07:08,450 --> 00:07:10,200 of the great banking dynasty. 104 00:07:13,460 --> 00:07:15,910 Today, the house which keeps the world's greatest 105 00:07:15,910 --> 00:07:18,870 collection of Napoleonic art and objects, 106 00:07:18,870 --> 00:07:21,430 is open to the public for guided tours. 107 00:07:24,192 --> 00:07:27,692 (dramatic brooding music) 108 00:07:28,860 --> 00:07:31,310 And hidden from view behind this hill, 109 00:07:31,310 --> 00:07:32,970 is the gigantic structure, 110 00:07:32,970 --> 00:07:35,790 that is the world's first major steel bridge. 111 00:07:44,290 --> 00:07:47,130 Spanning the Estuary's two and a half kilometers, 112 00:07:47,130 --> 00:07:50,670 the Forth Railway Bridge took seven years to construct, 113 00:07:50,670 --> 00:07:52,840 and was opened in 1890. 114 00:07:55,170 --> 00:07:59,980 The workforce was vast, up to 4000 men at a time. 115 00:07:59,980 --> 00:08:04,980 57 lost their lives. (train engine roaring) 116 00:08:05,230 --> 00:08:08,570 A structure like this needs constant maintenance. 117 00:08:08,570 --> 00:08:12,190 So it's no surprise it's become part of the expression, 118 00:08:12,187 --> 00:08:14,417 "painting the Forth Bridge." 119 00:08:14,420 --> 00:08:17,210 Referring to a never-ending task, 120 00:08:17,210 --> 00:08:19,420 by the time you finish at one end, 121 00:08:19,420 --> 00:08:21,710 it's time to start over again at the other. 122 00:08:24,630 --> 00:08:27,420 Beside this marvel of Victorian engineering, 123 00:08:27,420 --> 00:08:29,430 is the 60's-built Road Bridge, 124 00:08:29,430 --> 00:08:31,990 which replaced a centuries-old ferry service, 125 00:08:31,990 --> 00:08:33,710 for vehicles and pedestrians. 126 00:08:39,828 --> 00:08:43,508 (stirring symphonic music) 127 00:08:43,510 --> 00:08:45,630 From engineering to architecture, 128 00:08:45,630 --> 00:08:48,150 the two bridges make up a spectacular view 129 00:08:48,150 --> 00:08:49,790 from Hopetoun House, 130 00:08:49,790 --> 00:08:52,570 one of the last works of the great Scottish designer, 131 00:08:52,570 --> 00:08:57,070 William Adam, who died in 1748, before its completion. 132 00:08:58,690 --> 00:09:03,060 The work was taken up by his sons, John and Robert Adam, 133 00:09:03,060 --> 00:09:05,830 who like their father, were influenced by the style of 134 00:09:05,830 --> 00:09:08,300 the grand European palaces of the time. 135 00:09:10,544 --> 00:09:12,624 And this was the result. 136 00:09:12,620 --> 00:09:15,330 One of the finest stately homes in Scotland. 137 00:09:18,810 --> 00:09:21,200 Today it stands almost unaltered, 138 00:09:21,200 --> 00:09:24,250 as a lasting testament to the family of architects, 139 00:09:24,250 --> 00:09:26,760 who were to heavily influence the style of 140 00:09:26,760 --> 00:09:29,530 domestic architecture in the 18th century. 141 00:09:32,082 --> 00:09:35,372 (meandering piano music) 142 00:09:35,369 --> 00:09:36,979 Further up and sitting at the head of 143 00:09:36,980 --> 00:09:39,280 a spit of land on the Forth River, 144 00:09:39,280 --> 00:09:42,270 is the ominously named Blackness Castle. 145 00:09:45,300 --> 00:09:47,450 It was built in the 15th century, 146 00:09:47,450 --> 00:09:49,430 as a formidable stronghold, 147 00:09:49,430 --> 00:09:52,250 by one of Scotland's most powerful families, 148 00:09:52,251 --> 00:09:53,421 the Crichtons. 149 00:09:55,780 --> 00:09:58,910 During the wars with France in the early 1800s, 150 00:09:58,910 --> 00:10:00,550 it held prisoners of war. 151 00:10:02,030 --> 00:10:04,920 And after many years as an ammunition depot, 152 00:10:04,920 --> 00:10:07,890 it was finally declared an ancient monument. 153 00:10:09,690 --> 00:10:12,560 Because of its site, jutting into the Forth, 154 00:10:12,560 --> 00:10:14,670 and its long, narrow shape, 155 00:10:14,670 --> 00:10:16,630 the castle has been characterized, 156 00:10:16,630 --> 00:10:18,850 as the ship that never sailed. 157 00:10:26,480 --> 00:10:28,870 Many of the coastal towns along the Forth, 158 00:10:28,870 --> 00:10:31,810 were once involved in heavy industry. 159 00:10:31,810 --> 00:10:34,650 Like Bo'ness, which even had a port. 160 00:10:39,020 --> 00:10:41,610 But these days, it's a commuter town, 161 00:10:41,610 --> 00:10:43,310 and one of its main employers 162 00:10:43,310 --> 00:10:45,050 is just further along the river. 163 00:10:48,010 --> 00:10:50,220 This major industrial landmark, 164 00:10:50,220 --> 00:10:52,740 is the Grangemouth Oil Refinery, 165 00:10:52,740 --> 00:10:54,690 the only refinery in Scotland. 166 00:10:58,240 --> 00:11:00,720 It was originally built in the 1920s, 167 00:11:00,720 --> 00:11:03,000 to refine oil from the Middle East, 168 00:11:03,000 --> 00:11:05,610 until the discovery in 1975, 169 00:11:05,610 --> 00:11:08,510 of North Sea oil off the Scottish coast. 170 00:11:12,400 --> 00:11:15,810 Since then, crude oil has been piped directly 171 00:11:15,810 --> 00:11:17,140 to one of the terminals. 172 00:11:19,690 --> 00:11:24,180 Today this medium-sized plant has the capacity to process 173 00:11:24,180 --> 00:11:28,360 210,000 barrels of crude oil a day. 174 00:11:33,290 --> 00:11:36,440 Following the Forth River inland to its upper reaches, 175 00:11:36,440 --> 00:11:38,940 we arrive at a 14-meter high, 176 00:11:38,940 --> 00:11:42,770 elaborately-crafted stone pineapple. 177 00:11:42,769 --> 00:11:47,599 (light symphonic music) (birds tweeting) 178 00:11:47,600 --> 00:11:49,600 It's been described as the most 179 00:11:49,600 --> 00:11:51,660 bizarre building in Scotland. 180 00:11:56,880 --> 00:12:01,170 Completed in 1761, by the 4th Earl of Dunmore, 181 00:12:01,170 --> 00:12:03,470 the cupola adorns a garden wall that 182 00:12:03,470 --> 00:12:05,820 once contained a greenhouse on the first floor. 183 00:12:08,990 --> 00:12:13,450 It was used to grow exotic fruit, including pineapples. 184 00:12:13,450 --> 00:12:15,990 They were such a rare delicacy at the time, 185 00:12:15,990 --> 00:12:18,700 that architects adopted them as a motif 186 00:12:18,700 --> 00:12:22,040 to symbolize power, wealth and hospitality. 187 00:12:24,810 --> 00:12:28,880 And Dunmore remains the most spectacular use of this motif. 188 00:12:33,010 --> 00:12:34,890 Today the gardener's quarters, 189 00:12:34,890 --> 00:12:37,890 and the pineapple summerhouse provide holiday accommodation, 190 00:12:39,179 --> 00:12:42,609 and the gardens are open to the public all year round. 191 00:12:47,450 --> 00:12:49,720 Leaving the flood plains of the Forth River, 192 00:12:49,720 --> 00:12:52,620 we head inland to the Central Lowlands of Scotland. 193 00:12:53,770 --> 00:12:55,720 Rich in coal and iron ore, 194 00:12:55,720 --> 00:12:57,550 this area played a key role in 195 00:12:57,550 --> 00:13:00,680 the rise of industrial Scotland in the 1800s. 196 00:13:04,120 --> 00:13:05,980 And to transport these raw materials 197 00:13:05,980 --> 00:13:07,750 between cities and ports, 198 00:13:07,750 --> 00:13:10,490 an extensive canal network was created. 199 00:13:12,860 --> 00:13:14,290 At the turn of the Millennium, 200 00:13:14,290 --> 00:13:17,010 these waterways were not only restored, 201 00:13:17,010 --> 00:13:20,500 but in some cases, like the example we see here, 202 00:13:20,500 --> 00:13:21,870 they were reinvented. 203 00:13:25,370 --> 00:13:30,150 Completed in 2002, this is the Falkirk Wheel, 204 00:13:30,150 --> 00:13:32,890 one of Scotland's biggest tourist attractions. 205 00:13:35,500 --> 00:13:38,300 It uses a giant rotating mechanism, 206 00:13:38,300 --> 00:13:41,110 to simultaneously raise and lower boats, 207 00:13:41,110 --> 00:13:44,250 24 meters between the Forth and Clyde, 208 00:13:44,250 --> 00:13:45,800 and Union canals. 209 00:13:48,630 --> 00:13:51,220 The intention was to create a dramatic, 210 00:13:51,220 --> 00:13:53,340 21st century structure, 211 00:13:53,340 --> 00:13:56,050 to replace the 11 locks that previously 212 00:13:56,050 --> 00:13:57,860 connected the two waterways. 213 00:14:01,240 --> 00:14:04,920 It's the only boat lift of its kind in the world, 214 00:14:04,920 --> 00:14:08,780 taking five and a half minutes to complete a half-turn. 215 00:14:11,650 --> 00:14:15,380 Surprisingly, the wheel only uses the same amount of energy 216 00:14:15,380 --> 00:14:18,970 as it would take to boil eight household kettles. 217 00:14:19,956 --> 00:14:23,446 (tranquil electronic music) 218 00:14:23,450 --> 00:14:24,930 West along the valley, 219 00:14:24,930 --> 00:14:27,770 is a reminder that even across the Lowlands, 220 00:14:27,770 --> 00:14:30,340 the famous hills and mountains of Scotland 221 00:14:30,340 --> 00:14:31,990 are never far from view. 222 00:14:35,260 --> 00:14:37,670 This is the Carron Valley Reservoir, 223 00:14:37,670 --> 00:14:41,450 created in 1939 by flooding the Carron River. 224 00:14:42,390 --> 00:14:44,490 It proved to an ideal habitat, 225 00:14:44,490 --> 00:14:47,000 for the indigenous brown trout population. 226 00:14:49,680 --> 00:14:53,470 And the source of the water is the nearby Campsie hills, 227 00:14:53,470 --> 00:14:56,950 a picturesque range which lie along a geological fault, 228 00:14:56,950 --> 00:14:58,910 known as the Campsie Fault. 229 00:15:01,230 --> 00:15:03,470 Erosion has left tiers of rock, 230 00:15:03,470 --> 00:15:05,960 representing some 30 lava flows, 231 00:15:05,960 --> 00:15:09,780 which date back 360 million years. 232 00:15:09,780 --> 00:15:12,030 A period when many mountain ranges 233 00:15:12,030 --> 00:15:14,170 and coal beds were being formed. 234 00:15:19,310 --> 00:15:20,570 More recently though, 235 00:15:20,570 --> 00:15:23,740 this splendid scenery has been a place of escape, 236 00:15:23,740 --> 00:15:26,190 for those living in Scotland's biggest city, 237 00:15:26,190 --> 00:15:27,370 just to the south. 238 00:15:30,300 --> 00:15:32,610 This is Glasgow, 239 00:15:32,610 --> 00:15:36,570 situated on the River Clyde. (stirring music) 240 00:15:36,570 --> 00:15:39,780 Two and a quarter million people live in the conurbation, 241 00:15:39,780 --> 00:15:42,850 that's over 40% of the Scottish population. 242 00:15:45,980 --> 00:15:49,460 It was the founding of its university in 1451, 243 00:15:49,460 --> 00:15:51,580 that first placed Glasgow on the map. 244 00:15:54,240 --> 00:15:57,790 The fourth oldest university in the English-speaking world, 245 00:15:57,790 --> 00:16:01,450 its main campus is now this fine Victorian building. 246 00:16:04,270 --> 00:16:07,520 In the 1800s, during the Industrial Revolution, 247 00:16:07,520 --> 00:16:08,850 the city flourished. 248 00:16:10,730 --> 00:16:14,480 Glasgow was known as the second city of the British Empire, 249 00:16:14,480 --> 00:16:16,700 for much of the Victorian era. 250 00:16:18,070 --> 00:16:21,350 It became a world center for heavy engineering, 251 00:16:21,350 --> 00:16:24,060 particularly in the shipbuilding industries. 252 00:16:25,380 --> 00:16:28,480 But Glasgow's industrial heyday only lasted 253 00:16:28,480 --> 00:16:29,910 until the post-war years, 254 00:16:29,913 --> 00:16:32,943 and the city fell into a steady decline. 255 00:16:38,290 --> 00:16:40,020 Today the shipyards are no longer 256 00:16:40,020 --> 00:16:42,670 the hub of activity they once were. 257 00:16:42,670 --> 00:16:44,110 The few that remain, 258 00:16:44,110 --> 00:16:46,740 mainly focus on the design and construction 259 00:16:46,740 --> 00:16:49,050 of high-tech Royal Navy warships. 260 00:16:52,560 --> 00:16:56,630 Glasgow's function as a port also diminished. 261 00:16:56,630 --> 00:17:00,980 Today only the King George V Dock for ocean-going vessels, 262 00:17:00,980 --> 00:17:02,420 remains operational. 263 00:17:04,850 --> 00:17:06,700 After the decline of industry, 264 00:17:06,700 --> 00:17:11,570 vast areas of the city had become derelict and rundown. 265 00:17:11,570 --> 00:17:15,480 But the 1980s saw a rigorous program of regeneration, 266 00:17:15,480 --> 00:17:17,380 to rebuild its architecture, 267 00:17:17,380 --> 00:17:18,760 as well as its image. 268 00:17:19,790 --> 00:17:22,320 But despite these examples which remain, 269 00:17:22,320 --> 00:17:24,840 many of the notoriously unpopular tower blocks 270 00:17:24,840 --> 00:17:27,910 from the 1960s and 70s were demolished. 271 00:17:29,310 --> 00:17:32,080 The City Council also began a program of 272 00:17:32,080 --> 00:17:34,990 sandblasting the decades of soot and grime 273 00:17:34,990 --> 00:17:37,820 from the city's many tenements and municipal buildings. 274 00:17:39,480 --> 00:17:41,200 The work finally revealed 275 00:17:41,200 --> 00:17:43,660 the magnificent Victorian stonework 276 00:17:43,660 --> 00:17:45,890 that graces the city once more. 277 00:17:47,840 --> 00:17:51,040 One of the images associated with modern Glasgow, 278 00:17:51,040 --> 00:17:54,390 is the 3000-seat Clyde Auditorium. 279 00:17:54,390 --> 00:17:58,380 It's made up of an interlocking series of ships' hulls, 280 00:17:58,380 --> 00:18:01,340 a reference to the city's shipbuilding heritage. 281 00:18:02,530 --> 00:18:06,340 (stirring symphonic music) 282 00:18:06,340 --> 00:18:07,870 And on the opposite bank, 283 00:18:07,870 --> 00:18:11,370 lies the titanium-clad Science Mall that houses more than 284 00:18:11,370 --> 00:18:14,860 250 interactive science-learning exhibits, 285 00:18:14,860 --> 00:18:16,220 over three floors. 286 00:18:18,580 --> 00:18:20,080 In 1999, 287 00:18:20,080 --> 00:18:24,110 Glasgow was designated UK City of Architecture and Design. 288 00:18:26,230 --> 00:18:30,170 It was a testament to its recovery and is now referred to 289 00:18:30,170 --> 00:18:32,750 as the world's first post-industrial city. 290 00:18:37,601 --> 00:18:40,061 As the Clyde widens into the Estuary, 291 00:18:40,060 --> 00:18:43,830 the unmistakable 73-meter high Dumbarton Rock, 292 00:18:43,830 --> 00:18:44,870 comes into view. 293 00:18:48,010 --> 00:18:50,610 A common feature along this ancient fault line, 294 00:18:50,610 --> 00:18:53,180 it's actually a hardened magma plug, 295 00:18:53,180 --> 00:18:55,760 from an extinct and long-eroded volcano. 296 00:18:56,910 --> 00:18:59,540 But what makes this particular rock unique, 297 00:18:59,540 --> 00:19:01,540 is the castle that sits upon it. 298 00:19:02,690 --> 00:19:06,050 Dumbarton Castle has the longest recorded history 299 00:19:06,050 --> 00:19:08,190 of any stronghold in Britain, 300 00:19:08,190 --> 00:19:10,320 going back to the 8th century. 301 00:19:14,020 --> 00:19:14,850 Before that time, 302 00:19:14,853 --> 00:19:18,353 the castle is veiled in myths and legends. 303 00:19:18,350 --> 00:19:20,530 Merlin, from the legend of King Arthur, 304 00:19:20,530 --> 00:19:22,060 is said to have stayed here. 305 00:19:26,880 --> 00:19:29,800 The rock lies on the north bank of the River Clyde, 306 00:19:29,800 --> 00:19:33,350 where the River Leven flows in from Britain's biggest lake. 307 00:19:35,060 --> 00:19:35,890 Loch Lomond. 308 00:19:40,070 --> 00:19:44,060 This freshwater loch is 39 kilometers long, 309 00:19:44,060 --> 00:19:46,250 and has more than 30 islands. 310 00:19:48,370 --> 00:19:50,350 Many of them are privately owned, 311 00:19:50,350 --> 00:19:51,910 with holiday accommodation. 312 00:19:55,590 --> 00:19:58,720 And it was on one of these islands in 1984, 313 00:19:58,720 --> 00:20:01,680 that Alan Pettigrew broke a world record 314 00:20:01,680 --> 00:20:03,700 for hurling a haggis, 315 00:20:03,700 --> 00:20:05,470 a kind of Scottish sausage. 316 00:20:08,480 --> 00:20:13,480 He hurled the stuffed sheep's gut an amazing 55 meters. 317 00:20:14,030 --> 00:20:17,680 It was a record he was to hold for 20 years. 318 00:20:21,000 --> 00:20:22,310 A more familiar sport, 319 00:20:22,310 --> 00:20:24,590 played on the western shore of the loch, 320 00:20:24,590 --> 00:20:25,480 is golf. 321 00:20:27,070 --> 00:20:29,550 This is Loch Lomond Golf Club, 322 00:20:29,550 --> 00:20:32,380 one of the most exclusive golf clubs in Scotland, 323 00:20:32,380 --> 00:20:34,240 and widely considered to be one of 324 00:20:34,240 --> 00:20:36,210 the finest golf clubs in the world. 325 00:20:39,060 --> 00:20:41,760 Its members include such illustrious names as 326 00:20:41,760 --> 00:20:43,190 Prince Andrew, 327 00:20:43,190 --> 00:20:44,670 Sir Sean Connery, 328 00:20:44,670 --> 00:20:45,880 and Sir Nick Faldo. 329 00:20:50,930 --> 00:20:55,500 The tough course measures 6492 meters, 330 00:20:55,500 --> 00:20:58,320 and makes heavy use of natural obstacles, 331 00:20:58,320 --> 00:21:00,330 such as streams and marshes. 332 00:21:05,410 --> 00:21:07,700 Further west, towards the coast, 333 00:21:07,700 --> 00:21:09,880 and the lochs are now seawater. 334 00:21:12,310 --> 00:21:14,310 This is Gare Loch, 335 00:21:14,310 --> 00:21:16,700 and unlike most other lochs in the region, 336 00:21:16,700 --> 00:21:19,270 its primary use is something other than 337 00:21:19,270 --> 00:21:21,160 leisure and fishing industries. 338 00:21:23,750 --> 00:21:25,610 There's been a Naval base here, 339 00:21:25,610 --> 00:21:27,540 ever since the Second World War. 340 00:21:29,370 --> 00:21:31,900 At the height of the Cold War in the 60s, 341 00:21:31,900 --> 00:21:34,920 submarines carrying Polaris nuclear missiles, 342 00:21:34,920 --> 00:21:35,920 were stationed here. 343 00:21:38,220 --> 00:21:41,820 And today, Faslane Naval Base is best known as 344 00:21:41,820 --> 00:21:45,300 the home of the United Kingdom's nuclear submarine fleet, 345 00:21:45,300 --> 00:21:47,440 armed with Trident missiles. 346 00:21:49,500 --> 00:21:51,970 Each missile is capable of carrying up to 347 00:21:51,970 --> 00:21:55,400 12 independently-targetable nuclear warheads. 348 00:22:00,018 --> 00:22:02,068 Given the presence of these missiles, 349 00:22:02,070 --> 00:22:04,680 Faslane has been the subject of controversy, 350 00:22:04,680 --> 00:22:08,240 attracting demonstrations by anti-nuclear campaigners. 351 00:22:15,003 --> 00:22:16,723 Approaching the end of our journey, 352 00:22:16,720 --> 00:22:19,180 the route takes us across the rugged peninsulas 353 00:22:19,180 --> 00:22:22,050 and islands of the west coast of Scotland. 354 00:22:22,052 --> 00:22:23,882 (traditional folk music) 355 00:22:23,880 --> 00:22:27,820 This is Islay, the fifth-largest Scottish island. 356 00:22:29,030 --> 00:22:31,550 It covers 600 square kilometers, 357 00:22:31,550 --> 00:22:33,810 and has a population of over 3000. 358 00:22:38,610 --> 00:22:40,300 Famous for its malt whisky, 359 00:22:40,300 --> 00:22:41,930 it runs eight distilleries, 360 00:22:41,930 --> 00:22:44,730 making it an important source of income for the island. 361 00:22:46,640 --> 00:22:48,690 Its relatively mild weather, 362 00:22:48,690 --> 00:22:51,740 and over 209 kilometers of coastline, 363 00:22:51,740 --> 00:22:54,740 makes it popular for tourists and birdwatchers. 364 00:22:56,750 --> 00:22:58,380 But despite the milder weather 365 00:22:58,380 --> 00:23:00,070 brought in from the Gulf Stream, 366 00:23:00,070 --> 00:23:02,380 these waters can be deadly for shipping. 367 00:23:03,510 --> 00:23:06,860 And lighthouses play a crucial role in these rocky seas, 368 00:23:06,860 --> 00:23:10,130 whose waves can reach up to 30 meters during a storm. 369 00:23:15,510 --> 00:23:18,130 This remote lighthouse is some 70 kilometers 370 00:23:18,130 --> 00:23:19,480 from the Scottish mainland. 371 00:23:21,620 --> 00:23:24,510 It's been guiding ships safely through these waters 372 00:23:24,510 --> 00:23:26,850 for around 150 years. 373 00:23:28,730 --> 00:23:31,750 (waves crashing) 374 00:23:31,750 --> 00:23:34,510 It was designed by Thomas Stevenson, 375 00:23:34,510 --> 00:23:36,640 father of Robert Louis Stevenson, 376 00:23:36,640 --> 00:23:39,370 who wrote the celebrated novel, "Treasure Island", 377 00:23:39,370 --> 00:23:41,770 as well as "Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde". 378 00:23:44,984 --> 00:23:48,624 Up until 1971, when it became automated, 379 00:23:48,620 --> 00:23:51,560 lighthouse keepers would spend lengthy periods here. 380 00:23:56,810 --> 00:23:58,440 But it's now controlled from 381 00:23:58,440 --> 00:24:01,660 the Lighthouse Authority's headquarters in Edinburgh, 382 00:24:01,660 --> 00:24:03,520 where we started this journey. 383 00:24:08,350 --> 00:24:10,740 We finally arrive at Staffa, 384 00:24:10,740 --> 00:24:13,830 an uninhabited island made entirely from 385 00:24:13,830 --> 00:24:16,540 the hexagonal columns of ancient lava. 386 00:24:20,790 --> 00:24:23,120 The mythical giant, Fingal, 387 00:24:23,120 --> 00:24:26,290 is said to have built a causeway from here to Ireland, 388 00:24:26,290 --> 00:24:28,400 just to settle a score with his enemy. 389 00:24:31,510 --> 00:24:34,330 But the giant is best known for another feature 390 00:24:34,330 --> 00:24:36,420 of the island he gives his name to. 391 00:24:38,562 --> 00:24:39,712 Fingal's Cave. 392 00:24:42,180 --> 00:24:46,360 The cavern has an arched roof that's over 20 meters high, 393 00:24:46,360 --> 00:24:48,570 and it's the eerie sounds produced by 394 00:24:48,570 --> 00:24:50,310 the echoes of the waves, 395 00:24:50,310 --> 00:24:53,320 that give it the atmosphere of a natural cathedral. 396 00:25:01,078 --> 00:25:02,978 (stirring symphonic music) 397 00:25:02,980 --> 00:25:05,490 And it's captured the imagination of artists, 398 00:25:05,490 --> 00:25:09,050 writers and composers ever since the 18th century. 399 00:25:10,430 --> 00:25:12,820 The Scottish novelist, Sir Walter Scott, 400 00:25:12,820 --> 00:25:14,970 described Fingal's Cave as; 401 00:25:14,967 --> 00:25:18,677 "One of the most extraordinary places I ever beheld. 402 00:25:18,677 --> 00:25:23,047 "It exceeded in my mind every description I'd heard of it." 403 00:25:24,150 --> 00:25:26,320 It's a romantic account, 404 00:25:26,320 --> 00:25:29,480 and a perfect place to end this journey. 405 00:25:37,502 --> 00:25:41,002 (warming symphonic music) 406 00:26:00,639 --> 00:26:03,719 (graphics whooshing) 29935

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