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(wind howling)
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(dramatic orchestral music)
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- [Narrator] Our coast-to-coast journey
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starts in the south-east of Scotland.
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From Edinburgh, we follow
the Forth River upstream,
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past a host of historic landmarks,
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including its famous bridge.
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Inland across the Lowlands,
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is the Falkirk Wheel,
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the only canal boat lift
of its kind in the world.
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West of Scotland's biggest city, Glasgow,
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is Faslane Naval Base,
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that's home to Britain's
nuclear submarines.
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Crossing the rugged islands
and peninsulas of the Hebrides,
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we end at a mystical sea cave,
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that's inspired artists
and writers for centuries.
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(traditional folk music)
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As far as historians can tell,
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the modern sport of golf
was born in Scotland.
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And here on the east coast,
near the border with England,
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lies one of the world's
most famous golf courses.
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Muirfield.
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(stirring music)
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It's hosted no less than
15 Open Championships,
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as well as being home to the
oldest golf club in the world,
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The Honorable Company
of Edinburgh Golfers,
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whose records go back to 1744.
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Following the coastline into
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the mouth of the Forth Estuary,
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the twin chimneys of
Cockenzie power station,
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are a distinctive landmark.
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In 2005, the coal-fired
facility was reported to be
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the UK's least
carbon-efficient power station.
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It's now set to close by 2016,
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with plans for a gas-powered replacement.
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(dramatic percussive music)
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The neighboring town of Prestonpans,
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which dates back to the 11th century,
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gained the attention of local
press on Halloween 2004,
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when there was finally
a public declaration
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of the innocence of 81 Scottish women,
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who'd been convicted of witchcraft,
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and executed back in the
16th and 17th centuries.
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Set deep on the Forth
Estuary, is Edinburgh,
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the capital of Scotland.
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The city is dominated by a volcano,
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that was last active over
300 million years ago.
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Steeped in myths and legends,
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it's even been mentioned as a
possible location for Camelot,
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the castle and court of King Arthur,
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hence its name, Arthur's Seat.
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It looms over the city.
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Edinburgh has a population
of less than half a million,
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making it a small capital
by European standards.
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(light acoustic music)
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But despite its size,
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it's the most visited city
in the United Kingdom,
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after London.
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It's helped in part by
the Edinburgh Festival,
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the biggest arts and
culture event in the world,
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attracting as many tourists
as there are residents.
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And sitting on top of
another long-extinct volcano,
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is the symbol of the
city, Edinburgh Castle.
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After centuries of battle,
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it now enjoys a more sedate role,
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as Edinburgh's biggest
historic attraction.
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It's at the heart of
a city that has one of
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the highest concentrations of
listed buildings in the world,
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around four and a half thousand.
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The 16th century Old Town still retains
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the original medieval plan of
streets and market squares.
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Built on a narrow ridge,
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the space restriction led to some of
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the earliest high-rise buildings,
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reaching up to 15 floors.
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The central area of Edinburgh
is known as the New Town,
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though it was mostly constructed over
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the 18th and 19th centuries.
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It's considered to be a
masterpiece of city planning,
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and stands as one of the finest examples
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of Georgian architecture in the world.
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In 1995, both the old and new towns
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were declared World Heritage Sites.
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To the west of Edinburgh,
along the Estuary,
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is this fine example of 19th
century landscape design.
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(bright symphonic music)
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The park surrounds Dalmeny House,
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the first mansion in
Scotland to be built in
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the Tudor Revival style.
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It's been home to the Earls
of Rosebery since 1817,
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when the house was completed.
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Its most famous resident was
the 5th Earl of Rosebery,
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who by all accounts was
a celebrity in his time.
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He is supposed to have said
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that he had three ambitions in life.
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To be prime minister,
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to marry an heiress,
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and to win Britain's greatest
horse race, the Derby.
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He managed all three.
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He was in office in 1894,
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won the Derby three times,
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and married Hannah de Rothschild,
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of the great banking dynasty.
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Today, the house which
keeps the world's greatest
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collection of Napoleonic art and objects,
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is open to the public for guided tours.
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(dramatic brooding music)
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And hidden from view behind this hill,
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is the gigantic structure,
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that is the world's
first major steel bridge.
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Spanning the Estuary's
two and a half kilometers,
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the Forth Railway Bridge took
seven years to construct,
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and was opened in 1890.
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The workforce was vast,
up to 4000 men at a time.
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57 lost their lives.
(train engine roaring)
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A structure like this
needs constant maintenance.
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So it's no surprise it's
become part of the expression,
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"painting the Forth Bridge."
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Referring to a never-ending task,
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by the time you finish at one end,
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it's time to start over
again at the other.
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Beside this marvel of
Victorian engineering,
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is the 60's-built Road Bridge,
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which replaced a
centuries-old ferry service,
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for vehicles and pedestrians.
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(stirring symphonic music)
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From engineering to architecture,
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the two bridges make up a spectacular view
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from Hopetoun House,
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one of the last works of
the great Scottish designer,
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William Adam, who died in
1748, before its completion.
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The work was taken up by his
sons, John and Robert Adam,
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who like their father, were
influenced by the style of
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the grand European palaces of the time.
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And this was the result.
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One of the finest stately
homes in Scotland.
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Today it stands almost unaltered,
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as a lasting testament to
the family of architects,
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who were to heavily influence the style of
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domestic architecture in the 18th century.
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(meandering piano music)
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Further up and sitting at the head of
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a spit of land on the Forth River,
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is the ominously named Blackness Castle.
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It was built in the 15th century,
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as a formidable stronghold,
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by one of Scotland's
most powerful families,
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the Crichtons.
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During the wars with
France in the early 1800s,
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it held prisoners of war.
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And after many years
as an ammunition depot,
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it was finally declared
an ancient monument.
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Because of its site,
jutting into the Forth,
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and its long, narrow shape,
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the castle has been characterized,
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as the ship that never sailed.
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Many of the coastal towns along the Forth,
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were once involved in heavy industry.
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Like Bo'ness, which even had a port.
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But these days, it's a commuter town,
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and one of its main employers
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is just further along the river.
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This major industrial landmark,
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is the Grangemouth Oil Refinery,
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the only refinery in Scotland.
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It was originally built in the 1920s,
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to refine oil from the Middle East,
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until the discovery in 1975,
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of North Sea oil off the Scottish coast.
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Since then, crude oil
has been piped directly
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to one of the terminals.
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Today this medium-sized plant
has the capacity to process
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210,000 barrels of crude oil a day.
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Following the Forth River
inland to its upper reaches,
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we arrive at a 14-meter high,
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elaborately-crafted stone pineapple.
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(light symphonic music)
(birds tweeting)
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It's been described as the most
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bizarre building in Scotland.
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Completed in 1761, by
the 4th Earl of Dunmore,
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the cupola adorns a garden wall that
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once contained a greenhouse
on the first floor.
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It was used to grow exotic
fruit, including pineapples.
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They were such a rare
delicacy at the time,
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that architects adopted them as a motif
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to symbolize power,
wealth and hospitality.
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And Dunmore remains the most
spectacular use of this motif.
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Today the gardener's quarters,
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and the pineapple summerhouse
provide holiday accommodation,
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and the gardens are open to
the public all year round.
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Leaving the flood plains
of the Forth River,
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we head inland to the
Central Lowlands of Scotland.
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Rich in coal and iron ore,
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this area played a key role in
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the rise of industrial
Scotland in the 1800s.
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And to transport these raw materials
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between cities and ports,
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an extensive canal network was created.
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At the turn of the Millennium,
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these waterways were not only restored,
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but in some cases, like
the example we see here,
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they were reinvented.
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Completed in 2002, this
is the Falkirk Wheel,
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one of Scotland's biggest
tourist attractions.
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It uses a giant rotating mechanism,
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to simultaneously raise and lower boats,
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24 meters between the Forth and Clyde,
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and Union canals.
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The intention was to create a dramatic,
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21st century structure,
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to replace the 11 locks that previously
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connected the two waterways.
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00:14:01,240 --> 00:14:04,920
It's the only boat lift
of its kind in the world,
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taking five and a half minutes
to complete a half-turn.
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00:14:11,650 --> 00:14:15,380
Surprisingly, the wheel only
uses the same amount of energy
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as it would take to boil
eight household kettles.
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(tranquil electronic music)
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West along the valley,
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00:14:24,930 --> 00:14:27,770
is a reminder that even
across the Lowlands,
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the famous hills and mountains of Scotland
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are never far from view.
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This is the Carron Valley Reservoir,
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created in 1939 by
flooding the Carron River.
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It proved to an ideal habitat,
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for the indigenous brown trout population.
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And the source of the water
is the nearby Campsie hills,
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a picturesque range which
lie along a geological fault,
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known as the Campsie Fault.
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Erosion has left tiers of rock,
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representing some 30 lava flows,
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which date back 360 million years.
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A period when many mountain ranges
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and coal beds were being formed.
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More recently though,
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this splendid scenery has
been a place of escape,
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for those living in
Scotland's biggest city,
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just to the south.
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This is Glasgow,
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situated on the River Clyde.
(stirring music)
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Two and a quarter million
people live in the conurbation,
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that's over 40% of the
Scottish population.
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It was the founding of
its university in 1451,
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that first placed Glasgow on the map.
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The fourth oldest university
in the English-speaking world,
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its main campus is now this
fine Victorian building.
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00:16:04,270 --> 00:16:07,520
In the 1800s, during the
Industrial Revolution,
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the city flourished.
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00:16:10,730 --> 00:16:14,480
Glasgow was known as the second
city of the British Empire,
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for much of the Victorian era.
250
00:16:18,070 --> 00:16:21,350
It became a world center
for heavy engineering,
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00:16:21,350 --> 00:16:24,060
particularly in the
shipbuilding industries.
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But Glasgow's industrial
heyday only lasted
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until the post-war years,
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00:16:29,913 --> 00:16:32,943
and the city fell into a steady decline.
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Today the shipyards are no longer
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the hub of activity they once were.
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The few that remain,
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mainly focus on the
design and construction
259
00:16:46,740 --> 00:16:49,050
of high-tech Royal Navy warships.
260
00:16:52,560 --> 00:16:56,630
Glasgow's function as
a port also diminished.
261
00:16:56,630 --> 00:17:00,980
Today only the King George V
Dock for ocean-going vessels,
262
00:17:00,980 --> 00:17:02,420
remains operational.
263
00:17:04,850 --> 00:17:06,700
After the decline of industry,
264
00:17:06,700 --> 00:17:11,570
vast areas of the city had
become derelict and rundown.
265
00:17:11,570 --> 00:17:15,480
But the 1980s saw a rigorous
program of regeneration,
266
00:17:15,480 --> 00:17:17,380
to rebuild its architecture,
267
00:17:17,380 --> 00:17:18,760
as well as its image.
268
00:17:19,790 --> 00:17:22,320
But despite these examples which remain,
269
00:17:22,320 --> 00:17:24,840
many of the notoriously
unpopular tower blocks
270
00:17:24,840 --> 00:17:27,910
from the 1960s and 70s were demolished.
271
00:17:29,310 --> 00:17:32,080
The City Council also began a program of
272
00:17:32,080 --> 00:17:34,990
sandblasting the decades of soot and grime
273
00:17:34,990 --> 00:17:37,820
from the city's many tenements
and municipal buildings.
274
00:17:39,480 --> 00:17:41,200
The work finally revealed
275
00:17:41,200 --> 00:17:43,660
the magnificent Victorian stonework
276
00:17:43,660 --> 00:17:45,890
that graces the city once more.
277
00:17:47,840 --> 00:17:51,040
One of the images associated
with modern Glasgow,
278
00:17:51,040 --> 00:17:54,390
is the 3000-seat Clyde Auditorium.
279
00:17:54,390 --> 00:17:58,380
It's made up of an interlocking
series of ships' hulls,
280
00:17:58,380 --> 00:18:01,340
a reference to the city's
shipbuilding heritage.
281
00:18:02,530 --> 00:18:06,340
(stirring symphonic music)
282
00:18:06,340 --> 00:18:07,870
And on the opposite bank,
283
00:18:07,870 --> 00:18:11,370
lies the titanium-clad Science
Mall that houses more than
284
00:18:11,370 --> 00:18:14,860
250 interactive science-learning exhibits,
285
00:18:14,860 --> 00:18:16,220
over three floors.
286
00:18:18,580 --> 00:18:20,080
In 1999,
287
00:18:20,080 --> 00:18:24,110
Glasgow was designated UK City
of Architecture and Design.
288
00:18:26,230 --> 00:18:30,170
It was a testament to its
recovery and is now referred to
289
00:18:30,170 --> 00:18:32,750
as the world's first post-industrial city.
290
00:18:37,601 --> 00:18:40,061
As the Clyde widens into the Estuary,
291
00:18:40,060 --> 00:18:43,830
the unmistakable 73-meter
high Dumbarton Rock,
292
00:18:43,830 --> 00:18:44,870
comes into view.
293
00:18:48,010 --> 00:18:50,610
A common feature along
this ancient fault line,
294
00:18:50,610 --> 00:18:53,180
it's actually a hardened magma plug,
295
00:18:53,180 --> 00:18:55,760
from an extinct and long-eroded volcano.
296
00:18:56,910 --> 00:18:59,540
But what makes this
particular rock unique,
297
00:18:59,540 --> 00:19:01,540
is the castle that sits upon it.
298
00:19:02,690 --> 00:19:06,050
Dumbarton Castle has the
longest recorded history
299
00:19:06,050 --> 00:19:08,190
of any stronghold in Britain,
300
00:19:08,190 --> 00:19:10,320
going back to the 8th century.
301
00:19:14,020 --> 00:19:14,850
Before that time,
302
00:19:14,853 --> 00:19:18,353
the castle is veiled in myths and legends.
303
00:19:18,350 --> 00:19:20,530
Merlin, from the legend of King Arthur,
304
00:19:20,530 --> 00:19:22,060
is said to have stayed here.
305
00:19:26,880 --> 00:19:29,800
The rock lies on the north
bank of the River Clyde,
306
00:19:29,800 --> 00:19:33,350
where the River Leven flows in
from Britain's biggest lake.
307
00:19:35,060 --> 00:19:35,890
Loch Lomond.
308
00:19:40,070 --> 00:19:44,060
This freshwater loch
is 39 kilometers long,
309
00:19:44,060 --> 00:19:46,250
and has more than 30 islands.
310
00:19:48,370 --> 00:19:50,350
Many of them are privately owned,
311
00:19:50,350 --> 00:19:51,910
with holiday accommodation.
312
00:19:55,590 --> 00:19:58,720
And it was on one of
these islands in 1984,
313
00:19:58,720 --> 00:20:01,680
that Alan Pettigrew broke a world record
314
00:20:01,680 --> 00:20:03,700
for hurling a haggis,
315
00:20:03,700 --> 00:20:05,470
a kind of Scottish sausage.
316
00:20:08,480 --> 00:20:13,480
He hurled the stuffed sheep's
gut an amazing 55 meters.
317
00:20:14,030 --> 00:20:17,680
It was a record he was
to hold for 20 years.
318
00:20:21,000 --> 00:20:22,310
A more familiar sport,
319
00:20:22,310 --> 00:20:24,590
played on the western shore of the loch,
320
00:20:24,590 --> 00:20:25,480
is golf.
321
00:20:27,070 --> 00:20:29,550
This is Loch Lomond Golf Club,
322
00:20:29,550 --> 00:20:32,380
one of the most exclusive
golf clubs in Scotland,
323
00:20:32,380 --> 00:20:34,240
and widely considered to be one of
324
00:20:34,240 --> 00:20:36,210
the finest golf clubs in the world.
325
00:20:39,060 --> 00:20:41,760
Its members include such
illustrious names as
326
00:20:41,760 --> 00:20:43,190
Prince Andrew,
327
00:20:43,190 --> 00:20:44,670
Sir Sean Connery,
328
00:20:44,670 --> 00:20:45,880
and Sir Nick Faldo.
329
00:20:50,930 --> 00:20:55,500
The tough course measures 6492 meters,
330
00:20:55,500 --> 00:20:58,320
and makes heavy use of natural obstacles,
331
00:20:58,320 --> 00:21:00,330
such as streams and marshes.
332
00:21:05,410 --> 00:21:07,700
Further west, towards the coast,
333
00:21:07,700 --> 00:21:09,880
and the lochs are now seawater.
334
00:21:12,310 --> 00:21:14,310
This is Gare Loch,
335
00:21:14,310 --> 00:21:16,700
and unlike most other lochs in the region,
336
00:21:16,700 --> 00:21:19,270
its primary use is something other than
337
00:21:19,270 --> 00:21:21,160
leisure and fishing industries.
338
00:21:23,750 --> 00:21:25,610
There's been a Naval base here,
339
00:21:25,610 --> 00:21:27,540
ever since the Second World War.
340
00:21:29,370 --> 00:21:31,900
At the height of the Cold War in the 60s,
341
00:21:31,900 --> 00:21:34,920
submarines carrying
Polaris nuclear missiles,
342
00:21:34,920 --> 00:21:35,920
were stationed here.
343
00:21:38,220 --> 00:21:41,820
And today, Faslane Naval
Base is best known as
344
00:21:41,820 --> 00:21:45,300
the home of the United Kingdom's
nuclear submarine fleet,
345
00:21:45,300 --> 00:21:47,440
armed with Trident missiles.
346
00:21:49,500 --> 00:21:51,970
Each missile is capable of carrying up to
347
00:21:51,970 --> 00:21:55,400
12 independently-targetable
nuclear warheads.
348
00:22:00,018 --> 00:22:02,068
Given the presence of these missiles,
349
00:22:02,070 --> 00:22:04,680
Faslane has been the
subject of controversy,
350
00:22:04,680 --> 00:22:08,240
attracting demonstrations
by anti-nuclear campaigners.
351
00:22:15,003 --> 00:22:16,723
Approaching the end of our journey,
352
00:22:16,720 --> 00:22:19,180
the route takes us across
the rugged peninsulas
353
00:22:19,180 --> 00:22:22,050
and islands of the west coast of Scotland.
354
00:22:22,052 --> 00:22:23,882
(traditional folk music)
355
00:22:23,880 --> 00:22:27,820
This is Islay, the
fifth-largest Scottish island.
356
00:22:29,030 --> 00:22:31,550
It covers 600 square kilometers,
357
00:22:31,550 --> 00:22:33,810
and has a population of over 3000.
358
00:22:38,610 --> 00:22:40,300
Famous for its malt whisky,
359
00:22:40,300 --> 00:22:41,930
it runs eight distilleries,
360
00:22:41,930 --> 00:22:44,730
making it an important source
of income for the island.
361
00:22:46,640 --> 00:22:48,690
Its relatively mild weather,
362
00:22:48,690 --> 00:22:51,740
and over 209 kilometers of coastline,
363
00:22:51,740 --> 00:22:54,740
makes it popular for
tourists and birdwatchers.
364
00:22:56,750 --> 00:22:58,380
But despite the milder weather
365
00:22:58,380 --> 00:23:00,070
brought in from the Gulf Stream,
366
00:23:00,070 --> 00:23:02,380
these waters can be deadly for shipping.
367
00:23:03,510 --> 00:23:06,860
And lighthouses play a crucial
role in these rocky seas,
368
00:23:06,860 --> 00:23:10,130
whose waves can reach up to
30 meters during a storm.
369
00:23:15,510 --> 00:23:18,130
This remote lighthouse
is some 70 kilometers
370
00:23:18,130 --> 00:23:19,480
from the Scottish mainland.
371
00:23:21,620 --> 00:23:24,510
It's been guiding ships
safely through these waters
372
00:23:24,510 --> 00:23:26,850
for around 150 years.
373
00:23:28,730 --> 00:23:31,750
(waves crashing)
374
00:23:31,750 --> 00:23:34,510
It was designed by Thomas Stevenson,
375
00:23:34,510 --> 00:23:36,640
father of Robert Louis Stevenson,
376
00:23:36,640 --> 00:23:39,370
who wrote the celebrated
novel, "Treasure Island",
377
00:23:39,370 --> 00:23:41,770
as well as "Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde".
378
00:23:44,984 --> 00:23:48,624
Up until 1971, when it became automated,
379
00:23:48,620 --> 00:23:51,560
lighthouse keepers would
spend lengthy periods here.
380
00:23:56,810 --> 00:23:58,440
But it's now controlled from
381
00:23:58,440 --> 00:24:01,660
the Lighthouse Authority's
headquarters in Edinburgh,
382
00:24:01,660 --> 00:24:03,520
where we started this journey.
383
00:24:08,350 --> 00:24:10,740
We finally arrive at Staffa,
384
00:24:10,740 --> 00:24:13,830
an uninhabited island made entirely from
385
00:24:13,830 --> 00:24:16,540
the hexagonal columns of ancient lava.
386
00:24:20,790 --> 00:24:23,120
The mythical giant, Fingal,
387
00:24:23,120 --> 00:24:26,290
is said to have built a
causeway from here to Ireland,
388
00:24:26,290 --> 00:24:28,400
just to settle a score with his enemy.
389
00:24:31,510 --> 00:24:34,330
But the giant is best
known for another feature
390
00:24:34,330 --> 00:24:36,420
of the island he gives his name to.
391
00:24:38,562 --> 00:24:39,712
Fingal's Cave.
392
00:24:42,180 --> 00:24:46,360
The cavern has an arched roof
that's over 20 meters high,
393
00:24:46,360 --> 00:24:48,570
and it's the eerie sounds produced by
394
00:24:48,570 --> 00:24:50,310
the echoes of the waves,
395
00:24:50,310 --> 00:24:53,320
that give it the atmosphere
of a natural cathedral.
396
00:25:01,078 --> 00:25:02,978
(stirring symphonic music)
397
00:25:02,980 --> 00:25:05,490
And it's captured the
imagination of artists,
398
00:25:05,490 --> 00:25:09,050
writers and composers ever
since the 18th century.
399
00:25:10,430 --> 00:25:12,820
The Scottish novelist, Sir Walter Scott,
400
00:25:12,820 --> 00:25:14,970
described Fingal's Cave as;
401
00:25:14,967 --> 00:25:18,677
"One of the most extraordinary
places I ever beheld.
402
00:25:18,677 --> 00:25:23,047
"It exceeded in my mind every
description I'd heard of it."
403
00:25:24,150 --> 00:25:26,320
It's a romantic account,
404
00:25:26,320 --> 00:25:29,480
and a perfect place to end this journey.
405
00:25:37,502 --> 00:25:41,002
(warming symphonic music)
406
00:26:00,639 --> 00:26:03,719
(graphics whooshing)
29935
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