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(wind whistling)
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(dramatic orchestral music)
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(bright orchestral music)
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(gentle music)
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- [Narrator] Our journey
begins at Myrtle Beach
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in the northeast corner of the state
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where we follow the resort coastline
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before turning inland
across forest and farmland
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towards one of America's
best-known roadhouses,
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South of the Border.
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From there we fly to the
Congaree National Park
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and neighboring Columbia, the
capital of South Carolina.
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Along the north of the
state towards Greenville,
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new industries have replaced
what was once the center
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for cotton manufacture.
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Then it is on to Table Rock State Park
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before heading southwest along the edge
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of the Appalachian
Mountains to Lake Keowee.
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From there we take a look
at Woodburn Plantation,
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an historic fort at Ninety Six,
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before ending our journey
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at the beautiful Strom Thurmond Lake.
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(gentle twinkling music)
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South Carolina begins
here at Myrtle Beach,
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a major tourist destination
in the southeast of America.
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Today, literally hundreds of
hotels line the sandy beach
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which runs for an amazing 60 miles.
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The resort attracts around
15 million visitors a year
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and has earned the title of the number one
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family beach in America.
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Just over a hundred
years ago, the whole area
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was a forested wilderness,
but all that changed
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with the arrival of a
railway line to take wood
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from the coast inland.
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Employees of the railway
and lumber company
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would go to the beach after work,
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and they became the first people to enjoy
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what was to become known
as the Grand Strand.
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The idea of a resort was planted
and Myrtle Beach was born.
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Inland from the coast is
Broadway at the Beach,
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a shopping mall opened in 1996
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which has since grown into the resort's
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premier shopping destination.
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The empty car parks show
how late in the season
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this is being filmed, but
during the summer months,
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this complex attracts
millions of visitors.
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The center offers three theaters,
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17 restaurants, a hundred
shops, nightclubs and hotels,
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all surrounding the lake.
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In addition are a whole host of activities
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for children of all ages.
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Myrtle Beach has 460 hotels
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with a total of around 90,000 rooms.
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Most overlook the sea along
the 60-mile beachfront
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where nine wooden piers jut
out into the Atlantic Ocean.
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For many people, this resort offers
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some of the best sea
fishing in South Carolina
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where black sea bass,
groupers, bluefish, sea trout,
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and king mackerel can be caught.
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Fishing from the piers
is a popular pastime
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and does not need a license.
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However, you have to
follow the local rules
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which say you can not
bring alcohol or pets
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and you are regulated
in the size and number
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of fish you can catch.
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You also have to wear shoes,
which is a fairly sensible rule
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on a wooden pier with
the fear of splinters.
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Inland from the resort is a
sparsely populated landscape
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of woods and rivers before
it gives way to farmland.
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Interstate 95 is the main route
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up the East Coast of
America and runs from Miami
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in Florida to Portland in Maine.
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It is the longest north-south
route in the highway system
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and passes through 15 states.
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Along the way are some interesting
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road stops and attractions.
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This one is called South of the Border.
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(upbeat mariachi music)
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In 1949, Alan Schafer
built a small beer stand
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here on the state line, where
he also sold Mexican trinkets.
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This was a shrewd move because at the time
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the county just over the border
in North Carolina was dry,
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meaning it was illegal to sell alcohol.
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Business boomed.
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By the mid-1950s, he
was expanding the site
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with a restaurant, motel, and shops,
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and as you can see, all
with a Mexican theme,
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which certainly veers towards the kitsch.
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South of the Border is one
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of the most popular road stops in America.
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It is also helped by
being on the intersection
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for the main road off to Myrtle Beach.
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(bright music)
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At the same time that South of the Border
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opened for business, so
too did Darlington Raceway.
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This is a track for the
NASCAR racing, which stands
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for the National Association
for Stock Car Auto Racing.
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Usually, the circuits are
oval, but here at Darlington,
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it is egg-shaped and the
story goes that the land owner
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at one end of the track refused
to relocate his minnow pond,
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so the raceway had to adapt accordingly.
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This makes it very
challenging for the crews
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to set up their cars' handling in a way
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that will be effective for both ends.
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Perhaps this is why Darlington is known
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as the track too tough to tame.
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With a population of only five million
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and the state the size of Belgium,
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South Carolina has been
able to retain a great deal
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of its forested areas and these have been
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a major source of business
since the late 19th century.
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Once, highly labor-intensive
with trees cut
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by two-man crosscut saws, today it is all
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much more efficient, with modern machinery
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cutting, stripping, and preparing
wood for the timber yard.
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On either side of the Congaree River,
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is the largest tract of old-growth,
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bottomland hardwood forest
left in the United States.
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This type of habitat can
be found on floodplains
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alongside rivers which
occasionally overflow.
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It is an ideal growing
environment for several types
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of trees, including oaks,
bald cypresses, and gum trees.
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Here, in the Congaree National Park,
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are some of the tallest
trees in the eastern part
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of America and forming one
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of the highest deciduous
forest canopies in the world.
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(gentle piano music)
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The national park was
eventually formed in 2003
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after a long grassroots
campaign starting back in 1969.
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A century ago, there were
roughly 24 million acres
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of this type of forest in America.
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But, due to the expansion
of foresting and farming,
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there are only around
four million left today.
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But at least this beautiful
26,000-acre wilderness
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is now protected for future generations.
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20 miles to the northwest is Columbia,
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the capital of South
Carolina, with a population
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of around 130,000 people.
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It is a relatively new city, being founded
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after the American War
of Independence in 1786.
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A grid plan of 400 blocks
in a two-mile square
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by the river was laid out.
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During the Civil War of the 1860s,
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much of the city was burned to the ground.
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But the wealth of the cotton industry
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and the arrival of the railway
saw Columbia prosper again.
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The University of South Carolina
was founded back in 1801.
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It was closed during the Civil War
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and turned by the Confederate
forces into a hospital.
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When the city was attacked
and burned by the Union Army,
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they took over the
hospital and the buildings
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were spared from the flames.
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In 1869, the university added an amendment
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to its constitution that would prevent
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racial discrimination.
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It then elected two black
trustees to the governing board.
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Today, the university
welcomes undergraduates
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from around the world and
has close to 30,000 students.
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(triumphant music)
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In 1851, a new classical-style
state capital building
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was designed, but no sooner had work begun
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than the architect was found
to be fraudulent and dismissed.
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The building we see
today is similar in style
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to those original designs
and work began in 1855.
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During the Civil War, the building escaped
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being put to the torch but
did sustain some damage
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due to burning buildings close by.
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It was not finally finished until 1907
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due to a lack of funds
in the post-war period.
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It is now a national historic landmark.
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A landmark of a very different sort
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is a restaurant complex on
the outskirts of Columbia
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which takes you straight
back to a 1950s diner.
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We saw a rather kitsch
Mexican-style restaurant earlier on.
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This one is Piggie Park and
based around barbecue pork.
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It was opened in 1953
by the Bessinger family
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who still run it today.
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Their popular mustard-based
yellow barbecue sauce
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has remained unchanged for over 50 years.
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The industrial heartland of South Carolina
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is to the north where small
cities like Gaffney grew up.
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Like so many other
cities, it has seen both
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good times and bad,
and the abandoned sites
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of old factories tell their story.
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But by the 1980s, Gaffney's
economy was becoming reliant
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on peach growing, and to emphasize this,
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the Peachoid was built.
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This is a 50-meter high water tower
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in the shape of a giant peach.
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The state of Georgia to
the south may be known
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as the Peach State, but
here in Cherokee County
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where Gaffney is located,
more peaches are produced
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than in the entire state of Georgia.
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It has to be said, though,
that for a lot of people
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it does look rather
like a human posterior,
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which can be seen from miles around.
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It's certainly not something
which can be missed.
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(bright orchestral music)
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An important freeway runs
through Gaffney, Interstate 85,
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which goes from Virginia in the north
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to Alabama in the south.
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This area of South Carolina
is the industrial heartland
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of the state and has a rising population.
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One of the consequences is an increase
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in the amount of waste produced.
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And so, on the outskirts of Spartanburg,
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there is a large landfill
site where all the rubbish
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from the local area, which
can not be recycled, is put.
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Nowadays, great care is taken
to prevent any pollution
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by laying down a liner
before any waste is added.
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This means any hazardous materials
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such as household cleaners and pesticides
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will not find their way
into the groundwater system.
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Each day a layer of
soil is added to prevent
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any noxious smells escaping.
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And when the landfill site has reached
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an agreed maximum level
with the state officials,
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it is capped with a layer
of clay and a deep layer
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of soil so that grass
can be sewn on the top.
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Under state law, the site then
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has to be continuously
monitored for 30 years.
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(gentle music)
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In 1992, the German car manufacturer BMW,
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which stands for Bavarian Motor Works,
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decided to open its first
plant in the United States.
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The first initial complex
was opened in 1994,
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and in 2000, a $300 million
expansion was begun.
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In 2009, the plant at
Spartanburg had produced
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1,500,000 cars and shipped them
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in double-decker railway
wagons across the country
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as well as container ports for export.
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But this total is a drop in the ocean
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compared with the
estimated 150 million cars
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on the U.S. roads today,
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with five million or so
new cars sold each year.
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Ahead of us is Table Rock State Park,
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which covers just over 3,000 acres,
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and it's on the edge of
the Blue Ridge Mountains.
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(gentle music)
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Beside Table Rock itself,
the park offers visitors
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lakes, woods, waterfalls, and a whole host
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of trails to explore.
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Over 200 years ago, all the land
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belonged to the Cherokee Nation.
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The Native Americans
called the area Sahkanaga,
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meaning the Great Blue Hills of God,
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and they had many hunting
camps in the area.
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In 1785, they signed the Hopewell Treaties
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with the U.S. government, which over time
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laid out a western boundary
for white settlement.
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But it gave rise to the
mocking Cherokee phrase
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of talking leaves, as
they claimed that when
253
00:15:47,360 --> 00:15:49,980
the treaties no longer
suited the Americans
254
00:15:49,980 --> 00:15:52,990
they would blow away like talking leaves.
255
00:15:53,890 --> 00:15:56,270
And they were right
because by the beginning
256
00:15:56,270 --> 00:15:59,800
of the 19th century, white
settlers had moved in,
257
00:15:59,800 --> 00:16:03,620
and within a decade or so,
tourists began to arrive.
258
00:16:04,830 --> 00:16:07,720
The Civil War brought a halt to visitors
259
00:16:07,720 --> 00:16:09,750
and it was only later in the century
260
00:16:09,750 --> 00:16:11,940
after new hotels had been built
261
00:16:11,940 --> 00:16:14,760
that the popularity of
Table Rock increased.
262
00:16:16,020 --> 00:16:19,640
It may be small in comparison
to other U.S. parks,
263
00:16:19,640 --> 00:16:23,000
but it is one of South
Carolina's most visited places
264
00:16:23,000 --> 00:16:25,840
and draws people from
far and wide who come
265
00:16:25,840 --> 00:16:28,910
to see the great granite
dome of Table Rock
266
00:16:28,910 --> 00:16:31,570
and explore the network of trails.
267
00:16:37,860 --> 00:16:39,750
The mountain itself got its name
268
00:16:39,750 --> 00:16:42,070
from an old Cherokee legend.
269
00:16:42,070 --> 00:16:44,400
It was believed that the Great Spirit
270
00:16:44,400 --> 00:16:47,150
used Table Rock as a dining table,
271
00:16:47,150 --> 00:16:50,400
and the shorter mountain
close by was his stool.
272
00:16:57,790 --> 00:17:01,370
To the south is the
Nantahala National Forest,
273
00:17:01,370 --> 00:17:03,730
which was established in 1930.
274
00:17:04,680 --> 00:17:07,720
Nantahala comes from a Cherokee word
275
00:17:07,720 --> 00:17:10,280
meaning Land of the Noonday Sun,
276
00:17:10,280 --> 00:17:12,560
as in places the sun only reaches
277
00:17:12,560 --> 00:17:15,050
into the deep valleys at midday.
278
00:17:18,330 --> 00:17:20,640
Further on into the Blue Ridge Mountains
279
00:17:20,640 --> 00:17:23,950
is the Sumter National
Forest, which is riven
280
00:17:23,950 --> 00:17:28,240
with deep-sided, wooded
valleys and many waterfalls.
281
00:17:28,244 --> 00:17:31,304
(somber music)
282
00:17:31,300 --> 00:17:33,620
These are the Issaqueena Falls.
283
00:17:34,500 --> 00:17:36,600
Many legends have grown up about them.
284
00:17:36,600 --> 00:17:40,800
In one a young Oconee Indian
girl called Issaqueena
285
00:17:40,800 --> 00:17:43,500
discovered that her
tribe planned an attack
286
00:17:43,500 --> 00:17:46,000
on a nearby community of white settlers.
287
00:17:47,570 --> 00:17:50,020
She rode out to warn them, and on her way,
288
00:17:50,020 --> 00:17:52,140
named the places she passed:
289
00:17:52,140 --> 00:17:55,720
Six Mile, Twelve Mile, Eighteen Mile,
290
00:17:55,720 --> 00:17:58,410
until she reached Ninety Six Mile,
291
00:17:58,410 --> 00:18:00,330
which we will discover later on.
292
00:18:01,860 --> 00:18:04,670
Learning of her betrayal,
the Oconee braves
293
00:18:04,670 --> 00:18:07,020
chased Issaqueena to the falls
294
00:18:07,020 --> 00:18:09,500
where she pretended to jump from the top
295
00:18:09,500 --> 00:18:12,300
but hid on a ledge
behind the wall of water.
296
00:18:13,300 --> 00:18:15,480
Assuming she had fallen to her death,
297
00:18:15,480 --> 00:18:17,540
the tribe called off the pursuit
298
00:18:17,540 --> 00:18:20,650
and Issaqueena made her
escape through the woods.
299
00:18:23,060 --> 00:18:27,210
To the south of Sumter
National Forest is Lake Keowee.
300
00:18:27,210 --> 00:18:30,370
This is a manmade reservoir
which took 10 years
301
00:18:30,370 --> 00:18:34,410
to complete, starting back in 1963.
302
00:18:34,410 --> 00:18:36,060
The water is used in the production
303
00:18:36,060 --> 00:18:40,670
of hydroelectric power at
three dams and also cools
304
00:18:40,670 --> 00:18:43,770
the reactors of nearby
nuclear power stations.
305
00:18:44,920 --> 00:18:48,400
The lake was also planned
to be a public amenity
306
00:18:48,400 --> 00:18:51,580
with houses built around
a 300-mile shoreline.
307
00:18:52,670 --> 00:18:56,580
The project involved clearing
an enormous area of forest
308
00:18:56,580 --> 00:18:58,710
and digging out the valleys to increase
309
00:18:58,710 --> 00:19:01,320
the eventual depth of
water in the reservoir,
310
00:19:01,320 --> 00:19:03,750
which would be filled by three rivers
311
00:19:03,750 --> 00:19:06,080
flowing out of the Blue Ridge Mountains.
312
00:19:08,500 --> 00:19:12,200
To the south of Lake Keowee
is the city of Clemson,
313
00:19:12,200 --> 00:19:15,360
which is dominated by the university,
314
00:19:15,360 --> 00:19:18,500
and in turn, dominated
by the football stadium,
315
00:19:19,420 --> 00:19:22,570
home to the Clemson
University Fighting Tigers.
316
00:19:24,120 --> 00:19:26,450
Even though this is only a college team,
317
00:19:26,450 --> 00:19:29,930
they are supported by an
enormous number of people
318
00:19:29,930 --> 00:19:33,270
because the stadium, with
its paw print on the grass,
319
00:19:33,270 --> 00:19:36,940
holds just over 80,000 people.
320
00:19:36,940 --> 00:19:39,730
It is the same size as the Olympic stadium
321
00:19:39,730 --> 00:19:43,720
in Beijing, which hosted
the Games in 2008.
322
00:19:43,717 --> 00:19:48,017
(bright orchestral music)
323
00:19:48,020 --> 00:19:50,570
Clemson University was
named after the statesman
324
00:19:50,570 --> 00:19:53,650
and politician Thomas Green Clemson,
325
00:19:53,650 --> 00:19:57,430
who on his death in 1888,
left most of his estate
326
00:19:57,430 --> 00:19:58,680
to be used to establish
327
00:19:58,680 --> 00:20:02,830
the Clemson Agricultural
College of South Carolina.
328
00:20:02,830 --> 00:20:07,140
It opened in 1889 with 446 students
329
00:20:07,140 --> 00:20:09,960
as an all-white-male military college.
330
00:20:12,110 --> 00:20:14,050
It changed to a civilian status
331
00:20:14,050 --> 00:20:18,940
and became coeducational
in 1955, and in 1963,
332
00:20:19,930 --> 00:20:22,740
admitted its first
African American student.
333
00:20:25,080 --> 00:20:28,920
A year later, it became
just Clemson University,
334
00:20:30,060 --> 00:20:34,510
and today, just over 15,000
undergraduates study here.
335
00:20:40,840 --> 00:20:43,620
Three miles outside the city at Pendleton
336
00:20:43,620 --> 00:20:46,460
is the Woodburn Plantation house.
337
00:20:46,460 --> 00:20:50,140
It is built in the style
known as Antebellum.
338
00:20:50,140 --> 00:20:53,260
This is a term used for
houses in the Southern states
339
00:20:53,260 --> 00:20:56,240
constructed in a neoclassical style
340
00:20:56,240 --> 00:20:58,690
before the Civil War of the 1860s.
341
00:20:59,600 --> 00:21:03,190
Woodburn was built in the
1830s for the Pinckney family
342
00:21:03,190 --> 00:21:05,430
and then enlarged during the 1850s.
343
00:21:06,470 --> 00:21:09,080
The weather in South Carolina
during the summer months
344
00:21:09,080 --> 00:21:12,540
is hot and humid, so the long verandas
345
00:21:12,540 --> 00:21:15,630
which go round half the
house could take advantage
346
00:21:15,630 --> 00:21:18,330
of any breeze, and they also help
347
00:21:18,330 --> 00:21:20,800
keep the main rooms in the shade.
348
00:21:20,800 --> 00:21:23,890
It's an early practical
form of air conditioning.
349
00:21:25,060 --> 00:21:29,060
Close by are a group of buildings
including the cookhouse,
350
00:21:29,060 --> 00:21:32,710
which was separated from the
main building in case of fire.
351
00:21:33,900 --> 00:21:36,570
In 1966, Woodburn was given
352
00:21:36,570 --> 00:21:38,850
to the Pendleton Historic Foundation,
353
00:21:38,850 --> 00:21:42,030
who restored the house and
opened it to the public.
354
00:21:47,000 --> 00:21:50,800
Ahead of us is the Ninety
Six National Historic Site,
355
00:21:50,800 --> 00:21:54,700
which also goes by the name of
Old Ninety Six and Star Fort,
356
00:21:54,700 --> 00:21:57,870
one of South Carolina's
most important places
357
00:21:57,870 --> 00:21:59,890
of historical interest.
358
00:21:59,890 --> 00:22:01,920
The Old Ninety Six village was where
359
00:22:01,920 --> 00:22:05,220
the Oconee girl Issaqueena
went to warn settlers
360
00:22:05,220 --> 00:22:06,560
of an Indian attack.
361
00:22:07,430 --> 00:22:09,690
Little of the original village remains
362
00:22:09,690 --> 00:22:12,040
except the star-shaped earthen fort
363
00:22:12,040 --> 00:22:13,940
which was the scene of the first battle
364
00:22:13,940 --> 00:22:17,570
in the Southern states during
the War of Independence.
365
00:22:17,570 --> 00:22:20,250
It was also the scene of the longest siege
366
00:22:20,250 --> 00:22:23,080
of the entire war at 28 days.
367
00:22:23,960 --> 00:22:26,960
When the war arrived at
the village of Ninety Six,
368
00:22:26,960 --> 00:22:30,000
it became a loyalist
stronghold and the British
369
00:22:30,000 --> 00:22:32,750
built a star-shaped, earth-banked fort.
370
00:22:32,750 --> 00:22:34,660
It was more difficult to construct
371
00:22:34,660 --> 00:22:36,830
than a regular square one, but it meant
372
00:22:36,830 --> 00:22:40,330
that muskets and cannon
could fire from more angles
373
00:22:40,330 --> 00:22:41,960
around the eight stars.
374
00:22:43,070 --> 00:22:45,620
The Continental Army
of a thousand patriots
375
00:22:45,620 --> 00:22:47,900
under Major General Nathanael Greene,
376
00:22:47,900 --> 00:22:50,410
built siege trenches around the fort
377
00:22:50,410 --> 00:22:55,320
in preparation for an
attack against 550 loyalists
378
00:22:55,320 --> 00:22:57,670
led by Colonel John Cruger.
379
00:22:57,670 --> 00:23:01,090
And, on May the 22nd, the assault began.
380
00:23:01,090 --> 00:23:04,620
Cannon fired into the
compound from a wooden tower
381
00:23:04,620 --> 00:23:07,430
as the soldiers tried to
scale the earth banks,
382
00:23:07,430 --> 00:23:10,440
which were covered with wooden spikes.
383
00:23:10,440 --> 00:23:14,580
After 45 minutes, the
attack was called off.
384
00:23:14,580 --> 00:23:18,100
This went on for 28 days before the siege
385
00:23:18,100 --> 00:23:20,810
was finally abandoned after reports
386
00:23:20,810 --> 00:23:22,560
of an advancing British Army.
387
00:23:23,600 --> 00:23:26,830
Within weeks, the fort
was burned and abandoned
388
00:23:26,830 --> 00:23:29,780
as the loyalist defenses
were severely weakened.
389
00:23:30,770 --> 00:23:33,440
Unlike many other
strongholds of the period,
390
00:23:33,440 --> 00:23:37,000
Star Fort itself had almost no restoration
391
00:23:37,000 --> 00:23:40,790
and is very much as it
would have been in 1781.
392
00:23:46,360 --> 00:23:48,540
Much of South Carolina is given over
393
00:23:48,540 --> 00:23:50,850
to farming and a way of life
394
00:23:50,850 --> 00:23:54,050
that has remained
unchanged for generations.
395
00:23:54,054 --> 00:23:55,444
(upbeat music)
396
00:23:55,440 --> 00:23:57,990
The iconic shape of this barn can be seen
397
00:23:57,990 --> 00:23:59,690
across much of America.
398
00:24:01,080 --> 00:24:04,430
This example is close to
the town of Edgefield.
399
00:24:05,600 --> 00:24:09,430
It was founded back in
1785 and the main square
400
00:24:09,430 --> 00:24:12,190
still retains its early appearance.
401
00:24:12,190 --> 00:24:17,190
On the west side is the classical
courthouse built in 1839.
402
00:24:17,520 --> 00:24:21,170
In front of it is a
statue of Strom Thurmond
403
00:24:21,170 --> 00:24:23,540
who was born and died in the town,
404
00:24:23,540 --> 00:24:26,170
but also served as governor of the state
405
00:24:26,170 --> 00:24:30,040
and later elected as a
senator for South Carolina.
406
00:24:30,040 --> 00:24:33,340
His name lives on in our final location,
407
00:24:33,340 --> 00:24:36,280
which was named after
him during his lifetime,
408
00:24:36,280 --> 00:24:37,910
the Strom Thurmond Lake.
409
00:24:41,600 --> 00:24:43,800
It was built in the 1950s
410
00:24:43,800 --> 00:24:46,720
by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers.
411
00:24:46,720 --> 00:24:48,880
They dammed the Savannah River,
412
00:24:48,880 --> 00:24:52,060
which acts as the border
between South Carolina
413
00:24:52,060 --> 00:24:54,090
and Georgia to the south.
414
00:24:54,090 --> 00:24:56,490
The state boundary now runs down
415
00:24:56,490 --> 00:24:58,890
the center of the reservoir.
416
00:24:58,890 --> 00:25:02,270
It is the striking appearance
of the almost orange
417
00:25:02,270 --> 00:25:06,690
iron-rich soil which gives
this enormous artificial lake
418
00:25:06,690 --> 00:25:08,870
such a distinctive appearance.
419
00:25:08,865 --> 00:25:11,525
(upbeat music)
420
00:25:13,350 --> 00:25:17,250
The reservoir has been formed
by the Strom Thurmond Dam
421
00:25:17,250 --> 00:25:18,850
across the Savannah River.
422
00:25:20,400 --> 00:25:23,590
The span is just over 300 meters.
423
00:25:23,587 --> 00:25:26,267
It rises 62 meters above the riverbed,
424
00:25:26,270 --> 00:25:30,020
and housed within is
a hydroelectric plant,
425
00:25:30,020 --> 00:25:33,720
a powerful and dramatic
place to end this journey.
426
00:25:37,671 --> 00:25:41,171
(gentle orchestral music)
427
00:26:00,537 --> 00:26:03,287
(logo whooshing)
32940
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