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(upbeat music)
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- [Narrator] Our journey
begins as we approach
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the southwest corner of Mallorca,
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and onto Palma, the capital of the island.
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From there we head north
into the mountains,
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and along the coast of the
hilltop village of Deia,
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and then on to the monastry at Lluc.
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Following the dramatic coastline,
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we pass the town of Cala Sant Vicenc,
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before arriving at the lighthouse
on the Cap de Formentor.
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In the bay to the south,
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we take a look at the resort
town of Port de Pollenca,
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and then head east along
the coast to Cala Ratjada.
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We fly south to Porto Cristo
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before heading inland
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to three historic mountain
monasteries at Randa.
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Our journey around Mallorca
ends back at Palma.
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Mallorca is the largest
of the Balearic Islands,
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and has a history stretching
back to the Romans,
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followed by the Vandals,
then by the Byzantines,
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and the Moors.
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It finally became Spanish
in the 13th century.
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Today, Mallorca is a resort
island for mass tourism
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which began back in the 1950s
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when package holidays began to be sold.
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In 1960, the island
received 500,000 visitors.
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In 1997, it was nearly seven million,
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and in 2010, around 10 million people
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came here for a holiday.
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To cope with this number of tourists,
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resorts have grown up around the coast,
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particularly in the
southwestern part of the island
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near the airport.
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The reason for this great
expansion is twofold,
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climate and accessibility.
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Mallorca enjoys roughly 300
days of sunshine a year,
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and is easily reached from
most European countries.
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This also makes it a popular
place to buy property,
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and at Portals Nous, it
is mainly residential,
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with a large marina for private yachts.
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Many of the beaches are sheltered,
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and make a perfect place
for families to spend a day.
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Due to European regulations
and the Blue Flag policy,
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there has been, over the years,
an environmental cleanup,
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which means people can be
assured of unspoiled beaches
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and unpolluted seas.
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The capital of Mallorca is Palma,
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where over half the local
population of the island live.
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Its seaport is busy with cargo ships
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as well as cruise ships,
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and ferries between the other
islands and mainland Spain.
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Since the start of mass tourism,
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Palma has expanded to cope with
the increase in population.
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Despite the rise of modern buildings,
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the city is dominated by one of the finest
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gothic cathedrals in Europe,
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and a jewel in Mallorcan architecture.
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(choir singing)
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Known locally as La Seu,
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and officially of the Palma
de Mallorca Cathedral,
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it is one of the largest
Catholic places of worship,
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at 121 meters long, and 55 meters wide.
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It was founded back in the 13th century
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following the defeat of
the Arabs by King James I
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when he sailed to the
island with his army.
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During the voyage, a storm raged,
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and he feared for his life.
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He made an oath to God,
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promising to build a
cathedral in His honor,
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and to be dedicated to the Virgin Mary
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should his invasion be a success.
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It was, and building
began around the year 1300
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on the site of the old mosque.
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Building was slow as money was scarce,
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and it was not until 300
years later, in 1601,
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that the main facade was completed
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and this masterpiece began to take shape.
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An earthquake in 1851
left the building unsafe,
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which meant a great deal of
reconstruction and restoration.
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The cathedral was not finely finished
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until well into the 20th century.
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As we head north from Palma,
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the Serra de Tramuntana begin to rise up.
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This mountain range runs
almost the whole length
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of the west coast.
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An inner mountain valley is
the Son Termens Golf Club.
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This is a relatively new
course built in 1998,
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and has stunning views of the mountains.
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A few miles to the north
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and further into the
mountains is Valldemossa.
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This picturesque village
is perhaps most famous
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for the Carthusian monastery
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which was built at the
end of the 14th century.
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It was disbanded in 1835.
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A year later, the Polish
composer Frederic Chopin
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spent time in the disused monastery
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with his mistress, Lucile Dupin,
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better known as the French
novelist Georges Sand.
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Here in Mallorca,
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Chopin composed several of
his well known piano pieces.
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(light piano music)
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The rugged west coast of Mallorca
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is in stark contrast to
the main resort centers
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with their high rise blocks
and countless hotels.
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Here, the beautiful natural landscape
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has remained unchanged for centuries,
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and is now protected
from mass development.
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Since the 19th century,
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a number of villas have
been built along the coast,
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and now change hands for
a great deal of money.
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Some were once part of large estates
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going back to a time when European royalty
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holidayed on the island.
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Many of the villas have
outstanding views over the sea,
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and paths lead down to small coves
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which are sheltered from the wind,
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and the smooth, weathered rocks
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provide a great platform for sunbathing.
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One of the most beautiful
villages in Mallorca is Deia,
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set deep into the surrounding
Tramuntana mountains.
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(relaxing music)
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This hilltop village
is built of local stone
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with an ancient church at the top,
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which can be reached through
the narrow, winding streets.
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Deia has a special place
in Mallorcan history,
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as it was on the coast in 1852
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that 50 brave and determined islanders
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fought off an invasion force
of 150 North African Moors.
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This victory is celebrated
every year with a reenactment.
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By the 19th century,
tourists began to arrive,
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drawn by the beauty of the village
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and the surrounding landscape.
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In the 20th century, it was to be the home
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of the English poet Robert Graves,
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who died in 1985, and is
buried in the churchyard.
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Today, many film stars, rock musicians,
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and successful industrialists
from around the world
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have made Deia their summer retreat.
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Over the centuries,
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only a few towns have been
built along the coast,
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as the Tramuntana mountains
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made an effective barrier
for communication.
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But it's only in the sheltered valleys
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that a town could prosper.
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Soller is one of them,
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and stands in the Valley of Oranges.
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History stretching back
to the 13th century,
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this ancient town survives
and prospers on tourism,
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and in particular, its port on the coast.
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An old tram connects the town to the port,
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which has been a favorite
resort for decades,
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and especially for people
who want a quieter holiday
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away from the noisy and
more populated resorts
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of the south coast.
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This sheltered bay offers
not only a glorious beach,
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but also hiking trails into the mountains,
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which form the backdrop to the port.
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The Serra de Tramuntana is the largest
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and one of the most important areas
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of natural beauty on Mallorca.
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In this 50 kilometer range of mountains
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are a huge variety of
geological formations,
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as well as unique plants,
rare animal species,
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and above all, spectacular scenery.
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For decades, the area has been threatened
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with new public works,
planning applications,
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and the spread of tourism.
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June of 2011, the Tramuntana mountains
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were awarded World
Heritage status by UNESCO
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as an area of great physical
and cultural significance.
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Up in the mountains, the
climate is significantly wetter
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than the rest of the
island, and in the winter,
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it's not unusual for snow to be seen
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on the top of the peaks,
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the highest of which is
Puig Major at 1,445 meters.
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Since 1958, the public are
barred from the summit,
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as it is a military zone
with a radar station
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perched on the top,
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which watches over the
western Mediterranean,
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as well as Northern Africa.
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(relaxing music)
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Up at this height, birds
of prey seek their food,
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including falcons, ospreys,
and vultures, and in fact,
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Mallorca is the only
island in the Mediterranean
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where vultures still survive.
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Centuries ago, much of the island
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was covered with natural forest,
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and it's only here in the mountains
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that some of it survives.
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The protection by UNESCO
will hopefully help
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in keeping this rare woodland
safe from further development,
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as well as protect all the
animals that live in it.
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One building in the mountains
that has its own protection
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is the Santuari de Lluc,
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which has been here
since the 13th century.
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The reason for building
the monastery on this site
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was thanks to a young shepherd boy
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who had found an ancient
statue of the Virgin Mary
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buried in the ground.
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Lluc is considered to be the
most important pilgrimage site
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on Mallorca, and has been
welcoming guests for centuries.
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Today, the monastery offers
simple accommodation,
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mostly in cells once
occupied by former monks.
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However, unlike any other modest hotel,
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guests are asked to be
silent after 11 p.m.
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The monks welcome people of all faiths,
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and those that have none,
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because Lluc is more than a sanctuary,
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as it is a secular national symbol,
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it is designed for those
people seeking an alternative
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to days spent on a beach
and partying at night.
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Many people often use the monastery
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as a base for days spent
walking in the mountains.
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The monastery is also
internationally known
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for its choir school,
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which was established
back in the 16th century.
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During term time,
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they sing at services in
the morning and evening,
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and also regularly hold concerts
during the summer months.
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10 miles to the north,
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where the mountains begin
to slope down to sea,
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is the town of Pollenca.
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It was founded back in the 13th century
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as a center for defense
on the northern coast.
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The name of the town comes from the time
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of the Roman occupation
when a nearby settlement
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was called Pollentia.
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Much of the town was built in
the 17th and 18th centuries,
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but it's along the old medieval streets
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that Pollenca displays a
character all of its own.
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As it's close to the sea,
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a large number of holiday villas,
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each with its own swimming pool,
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00:14:26,040 --> 00:14:28,410
have been built in the
hills above the town.
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Across the mountains to the west,
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and in a small valley
surrounded by high cliffs,
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is the seaside resort
town of Cala Sant Vicenc.
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The beach is divided into two
by the long, high peninsula,
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which carries the main road
and many of the town's hotels.
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The road carries right on to the end,
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offering great views of the
sea as it pounds the rocks.
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00:15:16,136 --> 00:15:19,846
A few miles to the north
is the Cap de Formentor,
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which is a narrow peninsula
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at the northernmost point in Mallorca.
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00:15:24,440 --> 00:15:26,700
The cliffs are spectacular,
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00:15:26,700 --> 00:15:28,920
and have been carved into wonderful shapes
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00:15:28,920 --> 00:15:31,080
by the force of the sea and the wind
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over thousands of years.
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(relaxing music)
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And at the end is a large
lighthouse built in 1892.
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Building it was quite a task
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in this remote and harsh terrain.
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Due to the difficulty of
transporting the workforce
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along the peninsula,
everyone stayed on site,
255
00:16:08,210 --> 00:16:09,700
and construction carried on
256
00:16:09,700 --> 00:16:12,510
over Sundays and religious holidays.
257
00:16:12,510 --> 00:16:15,630
When the Bishop of
Mallorca heard about this,
258
00:16:15,630 --> 00:16:19,340
he was so appalled that he
had an altar built nearby
259
00:16:19,335 --> 00:16:22,915
so that the workers could
hear mass on Sundays.
260
00:16:24,510 --> 00:16:28,720
In 1962, a power line was
installed across the mountains
261
00:16:28,720 --> 00:16:30,020
to light the lamp,
262
00:16:30,020 --> 00:16:33,680
but lightning strikes rendered it useless,
263
00:16:33,680 --> 00:16:36,570
and so two generators
were installed instead.
264
00:16:38,690 --> 00:16:40,830
Today, the lighthouse is solar powered,
265
00:16:40,830 --> 00:16:43,170
and also remotely controlled.
266
00:16:45,510 --> 00:16:47,400
During the early 20th century,
267
00:16:47,400 --> 00:16:50,070
a mountain road was
built to the lighthouse,
268
00:16:50,070 --> 00:16:52,470
and it's not for the fainthearted,
269
00:16:52,470 --> 00:16:55,260
as it twists and curves around the cliffs
270
00:16:55,260 --> 00:16:57,390
with few safety barriers.
271
00:16:59,800 --> 00:17:02,640
The length of the peninsula
in a straight line
272
00:17:02,640 --> 00:17:05,500
is slightly less than 10 kilometers.
273
00:17:05,500 --> 00:17:10,490
The road runs for over
20 kilometers, however,
274
00:17:10,490 --> 00:17:14,080
once at the end, the
views are reward enough.
275
00:17:19,880 --> 00:17:21,780
Until the early 20th century,
276
00:17:21,780 --> 00:17:25,830
the whole of the Cap de
Formentor was in private hands.
277
00:17:25,830 --> 00:17:27,060
When the owner died,
278
00:17:27,060 --> 00:17:30,210
the land was divided into lots and sold.
279
00:17:30,210 --> 00:17:32,730
On one lot of 1,200 hectares,
280
00:17:32,730 --> 00:17:35,510
a luxury hotel was built in 1928,
281
00:17:35,514 --> 00:17:39,504
and the Barcelo Formentor
is still welcoming guests
282
00:17:39,500 --> 00:17:40,730
from around the world.
283
00:17:41,580 --> 00:17:44,460
It's one of the best
known hotels in Mallorca.
284
00:17:47,130 --> 00:17:48,590
Sheltered from the wind,
285
00:17:48,590 --> 00:17:51,400
but with glorious views
of the beach and sea,
286
00:17:51,400 --> 00:17:55,030
the hotel can boast a who's
who of international guests
287
00:17:55,030 --> 00:17:56,860
from the very start.
288
00:17:56,860 --> 00:17:59,630
Winston Churchill, Charlie Chaplin,
289
00:17:59,630 --> 00:18:01,940
Audrey Hepburn, John Wayne,
290
00:18:01,940 --> 00:18:03,700
Laurence Olivier, and today,
291
00:18:03,700 --> 00:18:06,820
movie stars such as Tom
Cruise and Michael Douglas.
292
00:18:08,160 --> 00:18:13,160
In 1995, Barcelo Formentor
hosted a European Summit Meeting
293
00:18:13,490 --> 00:18:16,300
with all the heads of
state staying on site.
294
00:18:21,220 --> 00:18:24,310
This whole stretch of coast
around the sheltered bay
295
00:18:24,310 --> 00:18:27,620
is home to some very
exclusive seaside villas.
296
00:18:28,768 --> 00:18:31,518
(relaxing music)
297
00:18:58,020 --> 00:19:00,170
The sea is clear and blue,
298
00:19:00,170 --> 00:19:03,010
and the ferries take tourists
on trips around the bay.
299
00:19:04,810 --> 00:19:09,480
They will pass this rather
amazing property, La Fortaleza.
300
00:19:12,000 --> 00:19:14,930
The old fort was built in 1628
301
00:19:14,930 --> 00:19:17,470
to protect the port of Pollenca,
302
00:19:17,470 --> 00:19:21,240
and is now being turned into
a very exclusive holiday home
303
00:19:21,240 --> 00:19:24,060
with no expense spared.
304
00:19:24,060 --> 00:19:26,180
Secure on its own peninsula,
305
00:19:26,180 --> 00:19:29,580
the villa can be got to by
boat, car, and helicopter.
306
00:19:32,010 --> 00:19:34,490
It is rumored to have been
sold to a British banker
307
00:19:34,490 --> 00:19:36,470
for an undisclosed sum,
308
00:19:36,470 --> 00:19:39,700
but thought to be in the
region of $35 million,
309
00:19:40,540 --> 00:19:41,850
and one of the most expensive
310
00:19:41,850 --> 00:19:43,810
private property deals on the island.
311
00:19:44,920 --> 00:19:47,090
The view from the south facing terraces
312
00:19:47,090 --> 00:19:49,370
looks toward the port of Pollenca.
313
00:19:58,100 --> 00:20:01,960
This beachside resort is the
northernmost town in Mallorca,
314
00:20:01,960 --> 00:20:04,910
and one of the island's more
expensive holiday spots.
315
00:20:08,760 --> 00:20:11,510
It is sheltered by the
Tramuntana mountains,
316
00:20:11,510 --> 00:20:13,530
and has a large, sweeping beach
317
00:20:13,530 --> 00:20:15,820
which runs for nearly six kilometers.
318
00:20:23,060 --> 00:20:25,450
Porto Pollensa attracts families
319
00:20:25,450 --> 00:20:27,370
from many different countries
320
00:20:27,370 --> 00:20:29,970
who can enjoy the various activities,
321
00:20:29,970 --> 00:20:33,440
including some which give
great views of the area.
322
00:20:53,810 --> 00:20:55,800
On the northeastern tip of Mallorca
323
00:20:55,800 --> 00:20:57,850
is the Punta de Capdepera,
324
00:20:57,850 --> 00:21:00,540
and the small resort town of Cala Ratjada.
325
00:21:02,532 --> 00:21:05,752
A small fortified town grew
up here in the 14th century,
326
00:21:05,750 --> 00:21:08,330
then developed into a
fishing and trading port,
327
00:21:08,330 --> 00:21:10,710
and today is a popular resort.
328
00:21:10,708 --> 00:21:13,458
(relaxing music)
329
00:21:27,210 --> 00:21:28,680
At Porto Cristo,
330
00:21:28,680 --> 00:21:31,730
a resort has grown up
around the natural harbor,
331
00:21:31,730 --> 00:21:34,450
which has been in existence
since the 13th century.
332
00:21:35,398 --> 00:21:38,268
It is said in one legend that the name,
333
00:21:38,270 --> 00:21:40,610
which means the port of Christ,
334
00:21:40,610 --> 00:21:43,680
came about because a fishing
boat was washed ashore
335
00:21:43,680 --> 00:21:46,670
which was carrying a large crucifix.
336
00:21:46,670 --> 00:21:49,560
In another legend, two oxen
who were pulling a cart
337
00:21:49,560 --> 00:21:51,850
with an icon on their way to Palma
338
00:21:51,850 --> 00:21:53,980
refused to go any further.
339
00:21:53,980 --> 00:21:57,650
The icon stayed, and the
town was named in its honor.
340
00:22:00,640 --> 00:22:04,700
As we head inland, small
mountains begin to emerge,
341
00:22:04,700 --> 00:22:05,940
and on one of them,
342
00:22:05,940 --> 00:22:09,490
known as the three shrines
near the down of Randa,
343
00:22:09,490 --> 00:22:10,940
are three monasteries.
344
00:22:13,560 --> 00:22:17,590
At the foot of the mountain
is a Santuario de Gracia,
345
00:22:17,590 --> 00:22:19,700
the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Grace.
346
00:22:20,590 --> 00:22:23,440
Mallorca abounds in places
of devotion and pilgrimage
347
00:22:23,440 --> 00:22:26,720
with most dedicated to the Virgin Mary.
348
00:22:26,720 --> 00:22:30,260
The main shrine and chapel has
been carved out of the rock
349
00:22:30,260 --> 00:22:31,590
and hidden from view.
350
00:22:32,880 --> 00:22:35,470
Over the centuries, the
buildings around the shrine
351
00:22:35,470 --> 00:22:39,540
have suffered much damage and
lost most of their decoration.
352
00:22:42,240 --> 00:22:44,130
Further up on the edge of the cliff,
353
00:22:44,130 --> 00:22:46,830
above the Santuario de Gracia,
354
00:22:46,830 --> 00:22:49,370
is the Ermita de Sant Honorat,
355
00:22:49,370 --> 00:22:50,920
the hermitage of Saint Honorat.
356
00:22:55,320 --> 00:22:58,920
In 1394, a knight by the
name of Arnau Desbrull,
357
00:22:59,940 --> 00:23:01,480
who had chosen to live as a hermit
358
00:23:01,480 --> 00:23:03,800
on the mountain for 30 years,
359
00:23:03,800 --> 00:23:05,970
asked the Bishop of
Mallorca for permission
360
00:23:05,970 --> 00:23:08,290
to build a chapel to Saint Honorat,
361
00:23:08,290 --> 00:23:11,170
an early Christian saint
from the fourth century.
362
00:23:16,870 --> 00:23:19,710
He chose a part of the mountain
with an unobstructed view
363
00:23:19,710 --> 00:23:22,250
to the south to build his hermitage.
364
00:23:24,680 --> 00:23:26,200
Over the succeeding centuries,
365
00:23:26,200 --> 00:23:29,420
the primitive building
feel into a ruinous state,
366
00:23:29,420 --> 00:23:31,770
and was rebuilt, along with a new church,
367
00:23:31,770 --> 00:23:33,240
in the 17th century.
368
00:23:38,990 --> 00:23:41,460
And finally, on the
very top of the mountain
369
00:23:41,460 --> 00:23:45,530
is the Santuari de Nostra Senyora de Cura,
370
00:23:45,530 --> 00:23:48,630
the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Cura,
371
00:23:48,630 --> 00:23:51,280
who was a divine figure
from the ancient world
372
00:23:51,280 --> 00:23:55,300
whose name means care or concern.
373
00:23:55,300 --> 00:23:58,360
One of the most important
early Mallorcan philosophers
374
00:23:58,360 --> 00:24:00,070
was Ramon Llull,
375
00:24:00,070 --> 00:24:03,830
who had a spiritual retreat
in a cave on the mountaintop.
376
00:24:03,830 --> 00:24:07,330
It was here he founded the
first Latin grammar school,
377
00:24:07,330 --> 00:24:10,160
which was active until 1826.
378
00:24:12,000 --> 00:24:14,840
In 1913, the sanctuary was restored,
379
00:24:14,840 --> 00:24:17,890
but handed over to the
monastic order of Franciscans.
380
00:24:18,840 --> 00:24:20,900
Today, with the help of volunteers,
381
00:24:20,900 --> 00:24:22,940
people are welcome to the retreat
382
00:24:22,940 --> 00:24:25,000
to stay in the converted cells
383
00:24:25,000 --> 00:24:27,350
and enjoy the peace and quiet,
384
00:24:27,350 --> 00:24:31,090
as well as the outstanding
views over the landscape.
385
00:24:35,950 --> 00:24:38,690
On our way back to Palma
and the end of this journey
386
00:24:38,690 --> 00:24:42,280
around Mallorca, we pass
the island's main airport.
387
00:24:43,200 --> 00:24:44,630
During the summer months,
388
00:24:44,630 --> 00:24:46,810
it's one of the busiest in Europe,
389
00:24:46,810 --> 00:24:51,540
and in 2010, handled over
21 million passengers.
390
00:24:53,370 --> 00:24:55,830
This number of people coming to the island
391
00:24:55,830 --> 00:24:57,250
makes Mallorca one of the most
392
00:24:57,250 --> 00:24:59,410
popular destinations in Europe.
393
00:25:02,830 --> 00:25:05,380
It has been welcoming
tourists in all seasons
394
00:25:05,380 --> 00:25:07,800
for well over 100 years.
395
00:25:11,540 --> 00:25:15,860
Because the island boasts
300 days of sunshine a year,
396
00:25:15,860 --> 00:25:19,370
that means 300 glorious sunsets to enjoy.
397
00:25:21,150 --> 00:25:23,040
And as the sun goes down,
398
00:25:23,040 --> 00:25:25,790
our journey around picturesque Mallorca
399
00:25:25,790 --> 00:25:27,030
comes to a perfect end.
400
00:25:37,113 --> 00:25:39,953
(inspiring music)
30234
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