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http://Scene-RLS.net
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When our Maori ancestors
arrived on these shores,
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Aotearoa became the last major landmass
on Earth to be inhabited by humans.
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Our genealogies tell me the names of those
tupuna, those ancestors, but who came before them?
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In this series, I want to truly understand
where we come from and how our people got here.
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Last time, I travelled to Samoa and Vanuatu and
found surprising links to our language and culture.
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But there are still
So many questions.
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No reira, Maori na, no Ahia ranei
tatou? Are we from Asia?
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This time, I'm leaving the Pacific and going
beyond the oral traditions of my ancestors,
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back before our great
ocean migration.
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I want to put everything I believe to the test
and go right back to the very beginning of us all.
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Hono mai ki au ki a hikoi tahi tatou ki
te Ao whanui me to tomo au o te wa.
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So join me as I travel across
the world and through time.
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Captions were made with
the support of NZ On Air.
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Rotorua is my ukaipo. It's the place
I connect with in my bones.
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My tribe's whakapapa gives us a lineage that
stretches from here back to Eastern Polynesia
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and into the beginning
of time itself.
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However, DNA and archaeology say the
ancestors of Polynesians, the Austronesians,
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came from Southeast Asia, and Taiwan
is believed to be their birthplace.
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I've always thought of Taiwan as Chinese, and I can't
imagine finding any Maori connection here at all.
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The indigenous people of Taiwan
are made up of 14 tribes.
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That's about 560,000 people, and that's 2% of
the 23.5 million people that live here in Taiwan.
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Us Maori in Aotearoa, we're 15%
of the population, and climbing.
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But as you can see, the indigenous people of
Taiwan are heavily outnumbered by the Han Chinese,
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who started arriving here —
kia or a! — in around 1600.
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Colonisation hit the
native Taiwanese hard.
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Kaohsiung City, on the flatlands of
the West Coast, is now largely Chinese.
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So I'm heading to the east coast,
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where the indigenous tribes were more
protected by Taiwan's mountain range.
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My first stop is near
the city of Taitung,
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where the people of the Paiwan tribe are
rediscovering their history and culture.
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This small school teaches traditional
hunting, and with it, language.
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(SINGS IN PAIWAN)
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A hill people, they hunt the small barking
deer that fill these forest-clad mountainsides.
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And like us, they are traditionally animists — their
many gods are in the natural world around them.
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(SPEAKS PAIWAN)
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Chief Tajnubak teaches the qualities and medicinal
use of every plant and tree in the forest —
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a science we call rongoa.
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(SPEAKS PAIWAN)
(STUDENTS RESPOND IN PAIWAN)
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(SPEAKS PAIWAN)
(STUDENTS REPEAT)
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So, you and the mountains and the
trees, you are all like siblings?
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- Thank you.
(SPEAKS PAIWAN)
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I can identify with the Paiwan,
as an indigenous person.
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But after this first meeting, I don't
feel a deeper connection as a Maori yet.
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But then we don't have snakes,
and here snakes are everywhere.
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Legend has it that in the distant past, the
mighty sun came down to earth and laid four eggs.
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To ensure their safety, the sun ordered a
giant green snake to protect two of the eggs,
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and a hundred-pace viper
to guard the other two.
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(SNAKE GROWLS)
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The creatures wrapped themselves
around the sun eggs and watched over them.
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The eggs guarded by the green
snake hatched a male and female,
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who became the ancestors
of Paiwan commoners.
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And from the eggs the sacred viper protected came
the man and the woman who became the ancestors
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of the Paiwan rangatira,
their chiefly families.
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The Paiwan rangatira families
were tapu — divine.
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Only they had the right to
wear special adornments.
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Their leather, jewellery and tattoos were often
decorated with the pattern of the hundred-pace viper,
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in honour of the creature that
had protected their ancestors.
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Tattooing predates
Pacific migration,
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so there's a good chance the art was
carried down into the Pacific from Taiwan.
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Unfortunately, it was banned during the Japanese
occupation and is only now making a slow comeback.
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Cudjuy is the only traditional
tattooist currently working here
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and is drawing on practitioners of Samoan
tatau and Maori moko to revive his art.
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Do these designs mean different
things — the wavy patterns, the lines?
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(SPEAKS PAIWAN)
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(SPEAKS PAIWAN)
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The design on his face looks Maori.
Where did he get that from?
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Yes. Yes.
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I could recognise it when I saw it.
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The art of tattooing is...
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one of the main things,
or probably the main thing
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that connects people
right across the Pacific.
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What does he think about that?
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These patterns remind me of what I've
seen on Lapita pottery and Samoan tatau.
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I'm heading north now to meet
a member of the Amis tribe.
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Martin has built a replica
of the bamboo boats
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that may have begun the Austronesian people on
their amazing ocean migration 5000 years ago.
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How long did it take
you to make this?
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- Uh, a gruelling four months.
- Four months? - Yeah.
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It was is originally
a sailboat, though.
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00:08:57,040 --> 00:09:01,360
So you can tell, there's two slits
here — those are to put your keel.
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That hole there, that's to
put the mast for the sail.
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- And you reviving this. This is something
that hasn't been around for a little while.
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00:09:08,560 --> 00:09:11,670
- The last one that was seen
was maybe 80 years ago.
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- So, how did you get involved in all of
this, Martin? What prompted you to build this?
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00:09:21,100 --> 00:09:23,840
- Well, the ocean is right
in front of our village.
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A lot of my family like to do diving — diving
for what we call awang, which is your kina.
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- Yeah.
- So that's how it started.
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- This bamboo raft seems a long way from the
massive double-hulled waka of Maritime Polynesia.
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00:09:42,000 --> 00:09:44,520
But it would have preceded
them by thousands of years.
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- You're the captain now. (BOTH
LAUGH) - Thank you. Thank you, brother.
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Thank you for giving
me the mana of your waka.
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What's the origin story for your tribe? Do they
have a story about where they originated from?
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00:09:56,520 --> 00:10:00,150
- There's only a story that is
how we landed on this island.
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But there's no time — like we don't know
what time it would have been — like, when.
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So, the story goes we came in
from the east coast.
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There's a little island
called Green Island.
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In our native language,
it's called Sanasai.
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And that's basically one of
the islands that we stopped on,
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00:10:23,080 --> 00:10:26,160
before we came here on to
the main island of Taiwan.
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00:10:26,360 --> 00:10:30,520
- So, what do you think of the theory that
we could be cousins somewhere along the...?
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00:10:30,720 --> 00:10:34,230
- Linguistically, I think so.
- Linguistically, yeah, yeah.
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00:10:34,480 --> 00:10:38,600
- I can count in our native language if you want me to.
- Yeah, go up 10.
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- Uh, so it's decay, tosa, tolo, sepat,
lima, enem, pito, falo, siwa, motep.
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So, yeah, that's one to 10.
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- Falo, quite close to waru. Lima close to rima.
- Yeah. Falo was eight.
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- Tolu close to toru. - Yeah, tolo.
- Yeah, there's a couple there, eh?
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- Mata is your eyes.
- Mata, eyes, yeah, same. - Tangila is ears.
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Taringa. Ears, yeah.
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It's mind-blowing to imagine those first Austronesian
explorers heading into the unknown on bamboo rafts,
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and then to so quickly develop
the serious maritime technology
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to be able to navigate
the vastness of the Pacific.
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It makes this part of our
story very hard to comprehend.
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*
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The colonisation of the indigenous people
along the coast in Taiwan is all too familiar.
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It comes down to land — lose your
land and you lose your way of life.
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00:11:42,660 --> 00:11:47,100
I'm going to meet Sumi Dongi, who
gave up a big-city career and returned
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to help her tribe revive
traditional agriculture.
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00:11:53,200 --> 00:11:56,480
And so how did you get involved
in the growing of rice
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and the revitalisation of traditional
practices around growing rice?
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(SPEAKS MANDARIN)
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00:12:08,000 --> 00:12:09,110
(SPEAKS MANDARIN)
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So, how did she get
the farmers to support?
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It's the land is
the important thing.
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(LAUGHS)
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For Sumi, her kaupapa is about
the land, the all-important ocean,
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and reviving traditional
Amis cultural practices.
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00:13:40,480 --> 00:13:43,310
Is that rock out there
significant in any way?
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- And they still do that now?
- Yes.
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- It's not just a story. That's real.
- Yes, yes, very important rock.
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I'm heading inland to Guangfu, where I'm told is
the only remaining carved house of the Amis people.
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It belongs to the Kakita'an family, who can
trace their ancestry back 59 generations.
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CHANTS: Whitiki nukutia
ki te ao o naianei!
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Kia tu, kia oho!
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Kia putu kite wheiao,
kite ao marama.
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Uhi! Wero! Hau mai te mauri.
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00:14:47,160 --> 00:14:48,130
Haumi e! Hui e!
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Taiki e!
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Whare e tu nei, tena koe.
E mihi ana ki a koe.
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Like the carvings in our wharenui back home,
these panels embody the Amis creation stories.
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This feels like going
back in time.
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Hoki whakamuri kite ao o nehe.
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It feels both very familiar
and yet different.
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And I'm shocked to see in this written
whakapapa familiar names like Rata and Maiau.
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(HOWLS)
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00:15:21,880 --> 00:15:23,280
(SPEAKS AMIS LANGUAGE)
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There's another New Zealand
connection here.
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After visiting a
Kohanga reo in Aotearoa,
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my guide, Sifo, returned home
inspired by the idea of immersion learning.
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His school is due to open soon.
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But in the meantime, this sacred whare is used
to teach Amis children their Amis language
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00:16:27,440 --> 00:16:30,000
through their cultural stories
and myths.
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He honore nui te nohotahi me nga iwi
manawhenua o tenei takiwa i te ra nei.
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It's been a huge privilege to spend time
with the local people of this area today.
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00:17:03,600 --> 00:17:07,760
Uncanny, the similarities between us as
Maori and the indigenous people here —
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00:17:07,960 --> 00:17:10,780
visual similarities,
linguistic similarities.
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00:17:11,800 --> 00:17:16,720
Some of the ritual and protocols are very similar
to what we do in te Ao Maori, in the Maori world.
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00:17:16,920 --> 00:17:20,680
So there's obviously been a lot
of wananga happening in here,
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00:17:21,560 --> 00:17:23,600
and a lot of tribal knowledge
has been shared.
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00:17:23,800 --> 00:17:27,920
A lot of elders have sat in this whare, and you can
still feel them here. You can feel their presence.
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00:17:28,120 --> 00:17:29,850
So I wasn't expecting this.
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I wasn't expecting the whare to look
the way it does and feel the way it does.
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00:17:34,620 --> 00:17:38,060
And it's the look of the whare
and the feel of the whare
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00:17:38,360 --> 00:17:41,440
that really makes me feel
like I'm in a whare at home.
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00:17:41,640 --> 00:17:44,720
I could be sitting in one of our wharenui
in Ohinemutu, Rotorua right now.
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It would be exactly the same as this. So the
similarity is quite... it's extraordinary.
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It's extraordinary how similar this
whare is to our whare at home.
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00:17:56,240 --> 00:17:58,280
I came to Taiwan expecting nothing.
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00:17:58,480 --> 00:18:03,280
But I leave more open to the idea that
Pacific migration may have begun in Asia.
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00:18:03,680 --> 00:18:08,400
And I'm feeling a surprising connection
to the indigenous tribes of this land.
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00:18:08,600 --> 00:18:13,690
My next stop will take me 8500km away and
hundreds of thousands of years in the past,
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deep in to the origins of
te ao tangata, the human race.
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I've literally no idea
what I'm going to find.
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00:18:24,400 --> 00:18:24,510
*
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Addis Ababa is the chaotic capital
city of Ethiopia, in north-east Africa,
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a place I barely knew of and one I
certainly never thought I would visit.
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00:18:41,600 --> 00:18:44,960
At the beginning of this hikoi,
kaumata Sir Toby Curtis
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00:18:45,960 --> 00:18:50,720
said that there were other Hawaiki
outside of the ones in Eastern Polynesia —
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00:18:51,360 --> 00:18:53,840
a Hawaiki in India,
a Hawaiki in Africa.
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00:18:55,360 --> 00:18:59,810
Ethiopia is said to be the cradle of
humanity. This is where it all began.
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00:19:00,200 --> 00:19:05,810
But to tell you the truth — kia pono taku
korero — I feel million miles away from Aotearoa
182
00:19:06,200 --> 00:19:10,970
and a million miles away from Maori
people, Maori culture, and Maori whakapapa.
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00:19:13,440 --> 00:19:16,980
Ethiopia is the home of
long-distance runners and coffee.
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00:19:17,520 --> 00:19:20,930
But it's also thought to be
the birthplace of humanity.
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00:19:22,080 --> 00:19:25,880
Coming from Aotearoa, the last stop
in humankind's long journey,
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it's strange to be here,
where many say it all started.
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00:19:30,040 --> 00:19:35,020
I've come to the National Museum of Ethiopia
to hear the story of human evolution.
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00:19:38,000 --> 00:19:41,230
If the body found at Wairau Bar
was our Maori auntie,
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00:19:41,440 --> 00:19:45,010
the auntie of all may be the
3.2-million-year-old Lucy.
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00:19:46,280 --> 00:19:48,080
But she's just part of the story.
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00:19:48,280 --> 00:19:54,300
I'm lucky enough to be meeting a man who co-discovered
some of the earliest humans on display here.
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00:19:54,600 --> 00:19:58,660
- In this particular room, you may
find at least 11 different humans
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00:20:01,960 --> 00:20:07,410
that lived from six million years ago, all the
way to the present, one replacing the other.
194
00:20:08,320 --> 00:20:14,300
So when you have this data, then you can comfortably
say that Africa is the birthplace of humankind.
195
00:20:17,480 --> 00:20:19,270
So, why is Lucy so important?
196
00:20:20,040 --> 00:20:22,130
- When Lucy was discovered in 1974,
197
00:20:24,320 --> 00:20:28,010
Lucy was the only one which had
almost 40% of the body parts.
198
00:20:31,440 --> 00:20:36,030
At a young age, the vertebrae show
some skeletal problems like arthritis —
199
00:20:38,200 --> 00:20:38,950
very young.
200
00:20:40,680 --> 00:20:44,320
So this tells you that early
humans have walked on two legs.
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- Why did humans leave Africa?
202
00:20:50,600 --> 00:20:51,760
- Looking for food.
203
00:20:52,100 --> 00:20:56,570
That's exactly what is happening
still now, trying to get more resources.
204
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If they just walk only 1km a day,
205
00:21:01,960 --> 00:21:05,080
in one year, they're away
365km from their centre.
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00:21:09,840 --> 00:21:11,920
In 10 years, they're away 3650km.
207
00:21:14,920 --> 00:21:18,090
Then before they know it,
they're all the way to...
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00:21:18,920 --> 00:21:24,000
- ...New Zealand. (LAUGHS) - ...China. And
then finally, to New Zealand and Australia.
209
00:21:25,720 --> 00:21:28,520
- Lucy was a breakthrough
find back in the '70s.
210
00:21:28,720 --> 00:21:32,040
But since then, our understanding
of evolution has progressed,
211
00:21:32,240 --> 00:21:35,800
with successive discoveries
of human and prehuman remains.
212
00:21:36,160 --> 00:21:39,580
Dr Berhane co-discovered a
number of the exhibits here.
213
00:21:41,960 --> 00:21:43,930
- OK, this is the earliest human.
214
00:21:47,440 --> 00:21:51,310
The date is 5.8 million years old,
so almost six million years.
215
00:21:52,160 --> 00:21:54,480
And we named it
Ardipithecus Kadabba.
216
00:21:55,160 --> 00:21:58,010
Ardi means ground.
Kadabba means 'big father'.
217
00:21:59,680 --> 00:22:02,230
- Good name for our early ancestor.
- Yeah.
218
00:22:02,720 --> 00:22:04,690
In 1994, we found this skeleton.
219
00:22:08,480 --> 00:22:11,890
And this clearly shows at around
4.4 million years ago,
220
00:22:12,400 --> 00:22:15,980
as you can see, very big hands
and the complete foot bones.
221
00:22:18,320 --> 00:22:22,720
This is very important because, 1) it
proved to us that the early humans,
222
00:22:25,120 --> 00:22:28,510
they changed from quadrupedal,
chimpanzee-like animals
223
00:22:31,280 --> 00:22:34,340
into a biped, into a bipedal,
walking on two legs.
224
00:22:36,400 --> 00:22:41,270
When you go to this one, this one,
Australopithecus, the molars are not very big.
225
00:22:43,080 --> 00:22:48,320
Then they started using stone tools — and the
tools are right here, very primitive tools.
226
00:22:48,520 --> 00:22:52,160
So who was the creator of these
stole tools? Maybe this guy.
227
00:22:53,000 --> 00:22:55,200
That is the beginning of the change.
228
00:22:56,240 --> 00:22:57,510
Then comes this one.
229
00:22:59,520 --> 00:23:01,880
This is around 2.4 million
years old.
230
00:23:02,440 --> 00:23:05,040
In 200,000 years,
the brain has expanded.
231
00:23:05,640 --> 00:23:08,580
And then when we get here,
this is Homo erectus.
232
00:23:10,400 --> 00:23:15,220
- This is Homo erectus, here?
- This one is, yeah. Tiny, tiny mandible. Big brain.
233
00:23:15,840 --> 00:23:21,400
And then when you come here, at around one
million years ago, this is what we discovered too.
234
00:23:22,240 --> 00:23:25,360
This is one million years old.
The brain size has tripled.
235
00:23:25,560 --> 00:23:29,680
The mystery, or the miracle that
happened is because the stone tools
236
00:23:30,960 --> 00:23:35,370
gave them access to all kinds of
protein and bone marrow, and everything.
237
00:23:35,800 --> 00:23:37,400
- And then that caused
the brain to grow.
238
00:23:37,600 --> 00:23:40,900
- The brain. Now they are able to feed a big brain.
- Yeah.
239
00:23:41,100 --> 00:23:44,220
- And this was replaced at
around 200,000 years ago
240
00:23:48,480 --> 00:23:49,630
by people like us.
241
00:23:51,780 --> 00:23:53,880
The first Homo sapiens
are right here.
242
00:23:54,080 --> 00:23:56,970
And the brain size here
has expanded to 1450cc.
243
00:24:00,760 --> 00:24:02,500
That is modern Homo sapiens.
244
00:24:03,560 --> 00:24:06,620
So everything that you see
all over the world now,
245
00:24:07,440 --> 00:24:12,460
the differences that you've seen between
blacks, whites, Orientals and everything,
246
00:24:13,800 --> 00:24:16,350
happened much, much
later after this one.
247
00:24:17,400 --> 00:24:19,770
Much later — less than 50,000 years.
248
00:24:20,880 --> 00:24:25,110
So now you have walked through the
whole human evolution in one place.
249
00:24:26,400 --> 00:24:28,190
And the record is right here.
250
00:24:28,600 --> 00:24:32,420
So for anybody who doubts evolution,
this is the place to come.
251
00:24:35,080 --> 00:24:39,060
- The korero with Dr Berhane has
left me with a lot to think about.
252
00:24:42,280 --> 00:24:44,520
My next stop is a
short flight south.
253
00:24:44,720 --> 00:24:46,960
It's one thing to
learn about evolution,
254
00:24:47,160 --> 00:24:52,030
but will I feel a connection with the
ancient tribes that still live in Ethiopia?
255
00:24:54,440 --> 00:24:54,550
*
256
00:24:55,200 --> 00:24:56,250
(STIRRING MUSIC)
257
00:25:06,000 --> 00:25:08,060
Kua tae mai au ki te wharua o Omo.
258
00:25:09,000 --> 00:25:11,250
I've arrived here in the Omo Valley.
259
00:25:11,840 --> 00:25:14,610
The Omo Valley is famous
for three things —
260
00:25:15,160 --> 00:25:17,930
its red clay, what we
at home called kokowai;
261
00:25:20,880 --> 00:25:24,130
its tribes and ethnicities
that call this place home;
262
00:25:24,400 --> 00:25:27,520
and its role in the evolution
of the human species.
263
00:25:28,680 --> 00:25:34,660
The idea that I might be standing in the place where
experts say Homo sapiens developed and evolved,
264
00:25:36,240 --> 00:25:42,140
and the idea that I may be walking in the footsteps
of my ancient ancestors who lived in this place
265
00:25:42,600 --> 00:25:44,220
is really hard to process.
266
00:25:44,800 --> 00:25:49,100
But one thing I do know is that I've been
through a lot of countries around the world,
267
00:25:49,300 --> 00:25:52,590
and right now I couldn't feel
further away from home.
268
00:25:53,680 --> 00:25:54,960
(GENTLE FLUTE MUSIC)
269
00:26:03,160 --> 00:26:06,160
I'm travelling with Minalu,
who grew up in the region
270
00:26:06,360 --> 00:26:09,720
and has written about the
ancient tribes of Omo Valley.
271
00:26:12,120 --> 00:26:15,540
- There are 16 distinct ethnic
groups living in the area.
272
00:26:17,760 --> 00:26:20,600
- Those are tribes? 16 tribes?
- Yes, 16 tribes.
273
00:26:21,840 --> 00:26:25,940
The magic of the people here is
the simplicity of the way they live.
274
00:26:32,480 --> 00:26:36,000
The tribes that live here haven't
always been in this area.
275
00:26:36,200 --> 00:26:41,910
Nomadic people have come and gone, chasing
resources like water, which is precious around here.
276
00:26:42,880 --> 00:26:47,980
Minalu is taking me to meet people of the
Hamar tribe, who consider this river sacred
277
00:26:48,200 --> 00:26:52,270
and use the water to help decorate
themselves for important events.
278
00:26:52,600 --> 00:26:57,530
Their distinctive look comes from ochre
soil and the body paint they make with it.
279
00:26:59,520 --> 00:27:02,420
They brought the ochre
from the Buska Mountain.
280
00:27:02,640 --> 00:27:06,700
The Buska Mountain is the most
sacred mountain of the Hamar people.
281
00:27:08,000 --> 00:27:14,300
- These patterns, do they signify anything — like,
the swirly lines? Does that signify different things?
282
00:27:15,500 --> 00:27:18,360
Yeah, it's just like, you know,
you look like a zebra.
283
00:27:18,560 --> 00:27:20,870
- Zebra.
- Yeah. You look like a zebra.
284
00:27:22,960 --> 00:27:24,480
(STIRRING AMBIENT MUSIC)
285
00:27:44,480 --> 00:27:45,940
(SPEAKS HAMAR LANGUAGE)
286
00:27:47,320 --> 00:27:50,550
So, this red clay, it's like
the kokowai in Hawaiki,
287
00:27:52,800 --> 00:27:59,060
and the kokowai that we use a lot in Aotearoa for
this purpose, as well — in traditional times, anyway.
288
00:28:01,560 --> 00:28:05,680
And the kokowai, the red clay, is said
to be found in a place called Kurawaka,
289
00:28:05,880 --> 00:28:07,900
which is the name of my daughter.
290
00:28:08,380 --> 00:28:11,160
She was named for that purpose —
Kurawaka. Kurawaka.
291
00:28:11,360 --> 00:28:13,270
She was named for that purpose.
292
00:28:14,120 --> 00:28:19,760
The first human created, the female called
Hineahuone — the woman who emerged from the soil,
293
00:28:21,000 --> 00:28:22,560
the red soil of Kurawaka.
294
00:28:23,600 --> 00:28:26,840
I feel very honoured by this.
I feel very privileged.
295
00:28:28,720 --> 00:28:32,840
It feels like I'm being bestowed some mana
from the Hamar people, which is very humbling.
296
00:28:33,040 --> 00:28:34,770
- You call it mana?
- 'Mana'.
297
00:28:35,320 --> 00:28:38,840
- Mana. Mana is a blessing from the gods.
- That's us, too.
298
00:28:40,840 --> 00:28:42,850
- Whoo!
- That's what we call it.
299
00:28:44,880 --> 00:28:46,900
- What's your name?
- Te Manahau.
300
00:28:47,560 --> 00:28:49,470
- Eh? - Te Manahau.
- Te Manahau.
301
00:28:50,000 --> 00:28:52,740
- Whoo! Chur, brother. Good work.
- (LAUGHTER)
302
00:28:53,160 --> 00:28:57,290
(SPEAKS HAMAR LANGUAGE) - 'My name is Dambe,' he said.
- Dambe. Dambe.
303
00:28:57,800 --> 00:29:02,300
- They would like to sing you a song,
and they consider you as part of them.
304
00:29:03,240 --> 00:29:04,880
(CHANTS LOUDLY, VOCALISES)
305
00:29:05,640 --> 00:29:06,920
(ALL CHANT TOGETHER)
306
00:29:16,240 --> 00:29:16,940
(LAUGHTER)
307
00:29:21,440 --> 00:29:22,720
(WARM AMBIENT MUSIC)
308
00:29:31,760 --> 00:29:34,610
(SPEAKS HAMAR LANGUAGE)
- Hey, my brother. Hey.
309
00:29:36,220 --> 00:29:37,730
- Hongi. - Hongi?
- Hongi.
310
00:29:43,280 --> 00:29:46,520
- Thank you. Thank you.
- Hey says thank you very much.
311
00:29:47,560 --> 00:29:50,290
That was...
out-of-this-world experience.
312
00:29:51,120 --> 00:29:55,200
Just being embraced by the boys as
one of them, treated as one of them,
313
00:29:55,400 --> 00:30:00,690
and, yeah, receiving this mana, mana of theirs
from centuries ago, getting a body paint.
314
00:30:01,960 --> 00:30:06,840
It's really, really a privilege to participate
in that ceremony and to receive this.
315
00:30:07,040 --> 00:30:09,200
It's mana, and we know
what that means.
316
00:30:09,400 --> 00:30:13,200
We know how special that is.
You can't buy that kind of stuff.
317
00:30:15,600 --> 00:30:17,740
There's no value. It's beautiful.
318
00:30:20,280 --> 00:30:24,830
I'm gonna put my shirt on, cos I've
put some weight on this tour. (LAUGHS)
319
00:30:26,720 --> 00:30:28,360
(GENTLE ATMOSPHERIC MUSIC)
320
00:30:35,240 --> 00:30:41,170
The body paint is something the tribesmen do ahead
of the Saturday morning market in nearby Dimeka.
321
00:30:41,740 --> 00:30:45,080
The tribes of this area have
come and gone over millennia.
322
00:30:45,280 --> 00:30:47,480
But effectively,
these are the people
323
00:30:47,680 --> 00:30:52,080
who stayed when the rest of humanity
left so many thousands of years ago.
324
00:30:52,480 --> 00:30:57,930
You could say the ancestors of my guide, Minalu,
have been here since the dawn of humanity.
325
00:30:58,600 --> 00:31:01,310
It's humbling and
mind-blowing to be here.
326
00:31:02,160 --> 00:31:04,310
Everywhere you go, there's coffee.
327
00:31:04,600 --> 00:31:10,050
In fact, Ethiopia is the birthplace of coffee,
and it plays an important role in life here.
328
00:31:25,720 --> 00:31:30,000
- We are going to meet the Hamar
tribe in their village where they live.
329
00:31:30,720 --> 00:31:35,640
I'm taking you to a family who invited us
to a traditional Hamar coffee ceremony.
330
00:32:00,080 --> 00:32:02,760
- This is the home of Kalla,
a village elder.
331
00:32:02,960 --> 00:32:06,560
Seven people live in this house,
including his wife, Gayto.
332
00:32:12,760 --> 00:32:14,800
- Bordjumay, you say.
- Bordjumay.
333
00:32:24,120 --> 00:32:26,090
- Now they are making a blessing.
334
00:32:31,480 --> 00:32:32,350
- Ooh, beauty.
335
00:32:34,240 --> 00:32:35,280
Tino, tino reka.
336
00:32:36,400 --> 00:32:39,180
- It's very, very sweet and beautiful.
- Yeah.
337
00:32:39,440 --> 00:32:43,440
- Tino reka, yeah?
- Tino reka, that's it, bro. (LAUGHS) Tino reka.
338
00:32:51,760 --> 00:32:57,260
- How old are these people here?
- Hamar people don't care about age. They just live and die.
339
00:32:58,120 --> 00:33:02,050
- Yeah.
- So birth and death; they don't count the age in between.
340
00:33:04,160 --> 00:33:07,330
But we ask them, he will ask
how old, for example...
341
00:33:09,080 --> 00:33:10,010
(SPEAKS HAMAR)
342
00:33:12,120 --> 00:33:12,820
(LAUGHTER)
343
00:33:15,360 --> 00:33:16,580
(RESPONDS IN HAMAR)
344
00:33:23,640 --> 00:33:25,620
- (SPEAKS HAMAR)
- (SPEAKS HAMAR)
345
00:33:26,440 --> 00:33:27,590
- Uh-huh. Uh-huh.
346
00:33:52,200 --> 00:33:55,240
- You're born, you live and then you
die, and that's all that matters.
347
00:33:55,440 --> 00:33:56,780
(TRANSLATES TO HAMAR)
348
00:34:02,120 --> 00:34:05,250
- (CHUCKLES) I'm older than all of you.
- (LAUGHTER)
349
00:34:07,960 --> 00:34:09,590
- Good answer. Good answer.
350
00:34:28,920 --> 00:34:29,950
Have a safe way.
351
00:34:30,920 --> 00:34:32,590
- Does she wanna do a hongi?
352
00:34:33,800 --> 00:34:35,660
(SPEAKS HAMAR)
(SPEAKS HAMAR)
353
00:34:44,520 --> 00:34:45,450
(SPEAKS HAMAR)
354
00:34:47,600 --> 00:34:48,300
(EXCLAIMS)
355
00:34:49,800 --> 00:34:50,500
(LAUGHTER)
356
00:34:57,560 --> 00:34:58,250
Thank you.
357
00:34:58,840 --> 00:35:03,250
Mihi ana ki a korua, nga wahine
rangatira o tenei papakainga. Tena korua.
358
00:35:03,880 --> 00:35:07,040
I'm surprised to find how much
spending time with these people
359
00:35:07,240 --> 00:35:10,020
who still live a tribal
lifestyle affects me.
360
00:35:10,280 --> 00:35:13,680
It makes me think about how
my tupuna lived so long ago,
361
00:35:13,920 --> 00:35:17,280
and how our Maori tribes would
have interacted with each other.
362
00:35:17,480 --> 00:35:18,630
I feel very moved.
363
00:35:19,000 --> 00:35:21,960
Perhaps one of the most
significant days of my life.
364
00:35:22,160 --> 00:35:26,550
So I feel both connected to this
place and 70,000 years distant from it.
365
00:35:27,160 --> 00:35:33,310
Because it was around that long ago that a few hundred
people left Africa, probably across the Red Sea.
366
00:35:34,160 --> 00:35:35,800
They spread out and multiplied.
367
00:35:36,000 --> 00:35:39,430
Some interbred with other now
extinct species of humans.
368
00:35:40,280 --> 00:35:45,360
One group moved into East Asia, probably
travelling along coastlines now underwater.
369
00:35:46,080 --> 00:35:51,960
Around 5000 years ago, a group left Taiwan, beginning
the greatest sea migration in human history,
370
00:35:52,600 --> 00:35:55,330
moving east to Vanuatu,
then West Polynesia.
371
00:35:56,200 --> 00:36:01,270
After 2000 years, they started off again,
discovering the islands of East Polynesia.
372
00:36:01,800 --> 00:36:04,580
And from there, my
tupuna headed south-west.
373
00:36:15,640 --> 00:36:15,750
*
374
00:36:16,640 --> 00:36:17,570
(GENTLE MUSIC)
375
00:36:30,040 --> 00:36:35,080
On this journey I've gone from Aotearoa, the
last major landmass to be inhabited by humans,
376
00:36:35,280 --> 00:36:38,690
back to the first, Africa,
and now |'ve come full circle
377
00:36:38,920 --> 00:36:43,760
back to one of the last stepping-off points
of my ancestors en route to Aotearoa.
378
00:36:43,960 --> 00:36:49,400
My whakapapa tells me that the Te Arawa waka
was one of many that stopped here in Aitutaki,
379
00:36:49,800 --> 00:36:52,880
and over in Rarotonga,
before heading to Aotearoa.
380
00:36:54,600 --> 00:36:57,380
Bombs — one of the true
Pacific traditions.
381
00:37:00,040 --> 00:37:01,200
Looks pretty high.
382
00:37:02,800 --> 00:37:03,950
He teitei te peke.
383
00:37:10,600 --> 00:37:14,400
Three well-known waka came through
here on their journey south —
384
00:37:14,600 --> 00:37:18,950
Tainui, Takitumu and our waka, Te
Arawa, which picked up some crew here.
385
00:37:19,720 --> 00:37:25,420
Tainui have a particular connection. They stayed
longer, and there's even a Tainui marae here.
386
00:37:26,200 --> 00:37:27,250
(CONCH TRUMPETS)
387
00:37:28,360 --> 00:37:32,750
Ali Maao is a tohunga who can whakapapa
to the Tainui and Te Arawa wakas.
388
00:37:33,920 --> 00:37:35,810
- Kia or a, Brother.
- Kia or a.
389
00:37:39,120 --> 00:37:44,750
What's the connections that you know of between
Maori in Aotearoa and Maori here in Aitutaki?
390
00:37:45,560 --> 00:37:51,140
- With our language as Cook Island Maori, your
guys language is New Zealand Maori; same thing.
391
00:37:51,920 --> 00:37:54,960
- When you talk about Hawaiki, where's Hawaiki
for you? Where does Hawaiki mean to you?
392
00:37:55,160 --> 00:37:58,980
So, Avaiki... What I was taught
about, Avaiki is not an island.
393
00:38:00,840 --> 00:38:04,290
You know, it's not like an island
by the name of Avaiki.
394
00:38:04,520 --> 00:38:09,560
Avaiki is where you come from. Like, our
Avaiki for Aitutaki, we come from Tupua'i.
395
00:38:11,560 --> 00:38:17,720
That is our Avaiki right there. And if you trace
yours back wherever you came from, that's your Avaiki.
396
00:38:17,920 --> 00:38:20,800
- So, those three islands out there,
what are their names?
397
00:38:21,000 --> 00:38:23,480
- The name of the island
is called Akitua.
398
00:38:23,680 --> 00:38:28,080
Then you go next door, is Angarei. And
then you got Mangere, and then you got—
399
00:38:28,280 --> 00:38:30,720
- Mangere out here too? So there's
an island out there called Mangere?
400
00:38:30,920 --> 00:38:33,550
- Mangere. Mangere.
- These... - (BOTH LAUGH)
401
00:38:34,080 --> 00:38:36,510
- These are all places
in Aotearoa, bro.
402
00:38:37,360 --> 00:38:38,410
(PEACEFUL MUSIC)
403
00:38:42,520 --> 00:38:44,990
260km, or just over
a day's sail south,
404
00:38:46,240 --> 00:38:50,360
is the next and final stopover on
my ancestors' journey to Aotearoa.
405
00:38:54,480 --> 00:38:57,320
So I'm here now in Hawaiki
Tumu-te-warowaro, or Rarotonga,
406
00:38:57,520 --> 00:39:01,640
and this is a very significant place in
terms of the history of the voyaging waka.
407
00:39:01,840 --> 00:39:03,000
Here we have Pikopiko-i-whiti.
408
00:39:03,200 --> 00:39:07,560
This is the place where our waka,
like Te Arawa, Tainui, Takitimu came in,
409
00:39:07,760 --> 00:39:11,880
and just on the other side there, we have
the island called Te Motu-tapu-a-Tinirau.
410
00:39:12,080 --> 00:39:16,640
Both of these places are mentioned in our ancient
incantations and all of our oral traditions.
411
00:39:16,840 --> 00:39:20,960
So very significant and great timing from
our whanaunga here coming in on their waka.
412
00:39:21,160 --> 00:39:25,610
This is what it might have looked
like all of those hundreds of years ago.
413
00:39:38,700 --> 00:39:41,650
The great fleet commemorated
here may be a myth,
414
00:39:41,920 --> 00:39:46,000
but that doesn't take away from
the fact our waka came through here.
415
00:39:46,200 --> 00:39:49,800
Rarotonga is an important touchstone
in the Te Arawa story.
416
00:39:56,800 --> 00:40:01,530
I know my version of our waka story,
but I'm keen to hear the Rarotongan side,
417
00:40:01,960 --> 00:40:05,610
so I'm meeting waka builder
and master carver Mike Tavioni.
418
00:40:07,360 --> 00:40:08,860
- Kia orana.
- Kia orana.
419
00:40:18,200 --> 00:40:21,400
- Welcome.
- Yeah, welcome back to your original home.
420
00:40:23,920 --> 00:40:24,500
(LAUGHS)
421
00:40:27,400 --> 00:40:31,800
- From what you know, though, Arawa came
through this way as well — the Te Arawa waka?
422
00:40:32,000 --> 00:40:36,960
-I don't need to know. If you are a wise
captain, you will stop here in Rarotonga,
423
00:40:38,080 --> 00:40:41,140
because last leg of the
trip is almost 2000 miles.
424
00:40:42,520 --> 00:40:46,520
- But what about Hawaiki, Papa Mike?
Is Hawaiki a metaphor as well?
425
00:40:46,800 --> 00:40:48,600
- Avaiki is a realistic place.
426
00:40:49,960 --> 00:40:53,870
But for me, my Avaiki is at Cook's
Corner where the bus stop is.
427
00:40:58,120 --> 00:40:59,210
I was born there.
428
00:40:59,680 --> 00:41:03,330
My afterbirth is buried there,
and I should be buried there.
429
00:41:04,840 --> 00:41:06,220
And that's my Avaiki.
430
00:41:06,960 --> 00:41:11,470
My father's Avaiki is in Atiu. He
was born there. His afterbirth is there.
431
00:41:12,680 --> 00:41:17,660
And his grandfather's Avaiki is Ra'iatea
and Bora Bora. And that's their Avaiki.
432
00:41:19,640 --> 00:41:22,190
So Avaiki is simply
where you originated.
433
00:41:24,680 --> 00:41:30,070
But if you talk about your origin as the Maori
people, then you talk about Avaiki Pamamao.
434
00:41:33,280 --> 00:41:35,240
In this case, maybe we say Asia.
435
00:41:36,160 --> 00:41:40,680
So if that is Avaiki Pamamao, then
the row of homelands started from there,
436
00:41:41,760 --> 00:41:44,120
then the next Avaiki
may be in Taiwan.
437
00:41:46,200 --> 00:41:48,280
And then the next Avaiki is Samoa,
438
00:41:49,400 --> 00:41:53,510
and Tonga and Samoa, and then until
it reaches Tahiti and Ra'iatea.
439
00:41:55,160 --> 00:41:59,440
- If I was to ask you what the
connections are between Maori in Aotearoa
440
00:42:00,000 --> 00:42:03,950
and Maori here in Rarotonga,
Aitutaki, what would your answer be?
441
00:42:04,920 --> 00:42:07,290
- I would say you are stupid.
- (LAUGHS)
442
00:42:07,680 --> 00:42:09,880
- It's a stupid question.
- (LAUGHS)
443
00:42:10,320 --> 00:42:13,360
- What is a Maori?
Can you tell me what is a Maori?
444
00:42:14,960 --> 00:42:16,860
- Taua?
- No. What does it mean?
445
00:42:17,880 --> 00:42:18,990
- Native, natural.
446
00:42:19,560 --> 00:42:22,230
- Maori, 'ma' means clean, pure.
- Pure, yes.
447
00:42:23,240 --> 00:42:26,300
- 'Ori' is to move. We might say to migrate.
- Yeah.
448
00:42:27,680 --> 00:42:28,250
To move.
449
00:42:30,560 --> 00:42:33,160
- So that did not originate
in New Zealand.
450
00:42:34,520 --> 00:42:37,240
So you are certainly
our teina, not tuakana.
451
00:42:39,200 --> 00:42:43,180
- So if you want to be Maori, we are more Maori than you.
- (LAUGHS)
452
00:42:44,480 --> 00:42:50,670
I don't think everyone in Aotearoa would agree, but
I thought I'd let the kaumatua have the last word.
453
00:42:51,400 --> 00:42:54,000
Mike's offered to take me
to Taputapuatea Marae,
454
00:42:54,200 --> 00:42:58,450
built surrounding a mauri stone from
sacred Taputapuatea in Ra'iatea.
455
00:42:59,280 --> 00:43:03,460
It's the bridge between Eastern
Polynesia and Aotearoa to the south.
456
00:43:03,720 --> 00:43:05,790
It's the last step of my journey.
457
00:43:06,160 --> 00:43:07,210
(CHANTS KARAKIA)
458
00:43:19,080 --> 00:43:21,440
This has been a journey
of a lifetime.
459
00:43:22,000 --> 00:43:27,160
I've been to some amazing places and met people
who have changed the way I see the world.
460
00:43:27,360 --> 00:43:30,280
And wherever |'ve gone,
strangers have welcomed me.
461
00:43:30,480 --> 00:43:34,720
I've seen how language and cultural
practices echo down through millennia,
462
00:43:34,920 --> 00:43:38,040
and how the thirst to move
on creates new cultures.
463
00:43:39,200 --> 00:43:44,840
This journey has been challenging for me, and
we've talked about a number of possible origins.
464
00:43:45,040 --> 00:43:49,230
Ultimately, it's strengthened my
commitment to my own Maori culture,
465
00:43:49,920 --> 00:43:54,190
and I finish in the firm belief that
I visited my Hawaiki in Rai'atea.
466
00:43:57,000 --> 00:44:01,440
Ko te ahurea, ko te whanau, ko te
whakapone e mohio al tatou ko wai tatou.
467
00:44:02,880 --> 00:44:06,860
Ahakoa nga korero rereke puta
I roto I te roanga o tenei hikoi —
468
00:44:07,440 --> 00:44:10,690
nga korero rereke
kua whaptaritari I te hinengaro —
469
00:44:11,120 --> 00:44:15,900
e pupu tonu ake ana te aroha I roto I te
whatumanawa ki nga korero katoa I puta.
470
00:44:17,480 --> 00:44:22,450
Nga korero I ata tuitui I te korowai o te
maramatanga kia puta ai he matauranga hou
471
00:44:24,680 --> 00:44:26,720
e pa ana ki te kaupapa no hea tatou.
472
00:44:26,920 --> 00:44:27,900
Na tenei hikoi,
473
00:44:28,840 --> 00:44:32,700
kua pakari ake taku mohio ko wai
ahau ko wai tatou te iwi Maori.
474
00:44:33,600 --> 00:44:35,910
And that, my friends,
is pretty cool.
475
00:44:37,360 --> 00:44:38,350
(SOARING MUSIC)
476
00:44:42,960 --> 00:44:45,800
Captions by John Gibbs.
Edited by James Brown.
477
00:44:46,840 --> 00:44:49,840
http://Scene-RLS.net
Capped by sighkick
45844
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