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8,000 miles
from the sun and surf
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00:00:48,215 --> 00:00:52,135
of California, far away at
the southern end of Argentina,
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00:00:52,135 --> 00:00:55,264
lies a wild land
called Patagonia.
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00:00:55,264 --> 00:00:58,725
From California by
car, by boat, on foot,
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00:00:58,725 --> 00:01:00,644
four men came to
climb a mountain
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00:01:00,644 --> 00:01:03,814
that had been climbed
only twice before.
7
00:01:03,814 --> 00:01:05,148
Four men.
8
00:01:05,148 --> 00:01:08,694
Yvon Chouinard,
internationally known climber.
9
00:01:12,197 --> 00:01:15,325
Doug Tompkins,
climber, skier, surfer.
10
00:01:20,122 --> 00:01:23,667
Dick Dorworth, champion
skier, novice climber.
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00:01:27,337 --> 00:01:30,424
And a young English
climber, Chris Jones.
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00:01:35,345 --> 00:01:40,100
The mountain is an 11,000 foot
pile of glacier and granite.
13
00:01:41,184 --> 00:01:42,519
It's got sheer
walls, cliffs of ice,
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00:01:42,519 --> 00:01:44,771
wild wind, and bitter cold.
15
00:01:46,398 --> 00:01:50,777
It's called Fitz Roy and
their objective, the summit.
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00:02:23,477 --> 00:02:26,563
Six months out of the year,
Yvon Chouinard is a blacksmith.
17
00:02:26,563 --> 00:02:29,483
He makes mountain-climbing
gear, much of it by hand,
18
00:02:29,483 --> 00:02:31,610
some of the best there is.
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00:02:31,610 --> 00:02:33,612
The other half of
the year, he climbs.
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00:02:33,612 --> 00:02:36,907
He's got an international
reputation and it's growing.
21
00:02:41,244 --> 00:02:42,579
The shop's about to close
22
00:02:42,579 --> 00:02:44,748
because Yvon and his
friends Doug Tompkins
23
00:02:44,748 --> 00:02:46,833
and Dick Dorworth
have an appointment
24
00:02:46,833 --> 00:02:51,463
with a mountain called Fitz
Roy, far south in Argentina.
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00:02:51,463 --> 00:02:55,217
It'll take months in a second-hand van just getting there.
26
00:02:55,217 --> 00:02:58,387
Along the way, there will
be surfing and skiing.
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00:02:58,387 --> 00:02:59,763
Well, let's go.
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00:02:59,763 --> 00:03:03,600
♪ Running, run, run,
run, run, run, run ♪
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00:03:03,600 --> 00:03:08,355
♪ Running, don't know why ♪
30
00:03:08,355 --> 00:03:11,525
♪ Looking for a place to go ♪
31
00:03:11,525 --> 00:03:15,946
♪ Always reaching high ♪
32
00:03:15,946 --> 00:03:21,201
♪ I remember thinking last
time that I was home to stay ♪
33
00:03:23,829 --> 00:03:27,374
♪ Now I have to leave
that home life ♪
34
00:03:27,374 --> 00:03:30,627
♪ But I'll be back someday ♪
35
00:03:39,344 --> 00:03:41,388
The Pan-American
highway is strung
36
00:03:41,388 --> 00:03:43,390
like a necklace
over the hemisphere.
37
00:03:43,390 --> 00:03:45,892
Yvon, Dick, and Doug
follow it through Mexico
38
00:03:45,892 --> 00:03:48,311
and they'll stay on it
for thousands of miles
39
00:03:48,311 --> 00:03:50,313
till it peters
out in the jungle.
40
00:03:50,313 --> 00:03:51,690
And then, any way they can,
41
00:03:51,690 --> 00:03:53,275
they'll get down to Chile
42
00:03:53,275 --> 00:03:56,361
where they'll pick up a young
Englishman named Chris Jones.
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00:03:56,361 --> 00:03:58,405
He's down there on an
expedition of his own
44
00:03:58,405 --> 00:04:01,741
and that's good because as it
is there isn't room in the van
45
00:04:01,741 --> 00:04:03,535
to scratch your head.
46
00:04:04,661 --> 00:04:08,665
And then on southward,
always southward.
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00:04:08,665 --> 00:04:12,419
♪ Watching the road
through dusty windows ♪
48
00:04:12,419 --> 00:04:16,756
♪ Riding the waves
in ♪
49
00:04:16,756 --> 00:04:20,552
♪ Me and my van ♪
50
00:04:20,552 --> 00:04:22,721
♪ Racing away ♪
51
00:04:26,683 --> 00:04:28,268
Once
out of North America,
52
00:04:28,268 --> 00:04:32,773
the cities and towns are as
bright and loud as jungle birds.
53
00:04:32,773 --> 00:04:35,775
Guatemala City, where
pineapples are a penny each.
54
00:04:35,775 --> 00:04:40,530
San Salvador, Managua, Nicaragua,
San Jose in Costa Rica.
55
00:04:43,700 --> 00:04:46,745
Dick Dorworth's only
begun to climb this year.
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00:04:46,745 --> 00:04:49,039
He's listened to Doug
Tompkins and Yvon talk
57
00:04:49,039 --> 00:04:50,624
about the Argentine expedition
58
00:04:50,624 --> 00:04:52,584
that recently climbed Fitz Roy
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00:04:52,584 --> 00:04:55,462
and he's impatient
to get on with it.
60
00:04:55,462 --> 00:04:58,465
But South America
demands patience.
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00:04:58,465 --> 00:05:02,552
Down here, the clocks
don't run, they walk.
62
00:05:02,552 --> 00:05:06,598
South of Panama City, the
highway loses itself in jungle
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00:05:06,598 --> 00:05:09,726
so for two weeks they kill
time waiting for a boat
64
00:05:09,726 --> 00:05:12,896
to take the van across
the Caribbean to Colombia,
65
00:05:12,896 --> 00:05:15,440
where the road starts again.
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00:05:15,440 --> 00:05:18,568
A haircut can save trouble
at South American borders
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00:05:18,568 --> 00:05:20,111
and there are a lot
of them to cross
68
00:05:20,111 --> 00:05:22,322
before they get to Fitz Roy.
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00:05:24,658 --> 00:05:27,827
In the marketplace, Doug
Tompkins has his fortune told
70
00:05:27,827 --> 00:05:29,829
by a brightly
colored little bird
71
00:05:29,829 --> 00:05:32,749
who chooses a
message just for him.
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00:05:34,834 --> 00:05:37,546
Your family is thinking of you.
73
00:05:45,595 --> 00:05:47,556
It's really pretty
hard to say sometimes
74
00:05:47,556 --> 00:05:50,559
why you'd get in a truck
and drive 18,000 miles
75
00:05:50,559 --> 00:05:52,477
to climb some mountain.
76
00:05:52,477 --> 00:05:54,854
You never really thought
about the motives.
77
00:05:54,854 --> 00:05:56,106
You never really sat down
78
00:05:56,106 --> 00:05:59,526
and analyzed just why
you were gonna do that.
79
00:05:59,526 --> 00:06:01,611
It probably would scare you.
80
00:06:05,615 --> 00:06:06,616
From
Colon in Panama,
81
00:06:06,616 --> 00:06:10,537
the boat crosses to
Cartagena in Colombia.
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00:06:10,537 --> 00:06:12,539
The highway picks
up again and unwinds
83
00:06:12,539 --> 00:06:16,668
through Colombia and Ecuador
and then down into Peru.
84
00:06:19,546 --> 00:06:21,673
Doug and Yvon keep an
eye on the Pacific surf,
85
00:06:21,673 --> 00:06:25,635
looking for a chance to unstrap
the boards they've brought
86
00:06:25,635 --> 00:06:28,638
and at Chicama in northern
Peru they find it.
87
00:06:28,638 --> 00:06:31,808
Waves a mile long
and smooth as glass.
88
00:06:36,479 --> 00:06:37,897
Yvon's a fine surfer.
89
00:06:37,897 --> 00:06:39,149
Doug's pretty good at it,
90
00:06:39,149 --> 00:06:41,568
as he is that almost
everything he tries.
91
00:06:41,568 --> 00:06:42,902
Dick Dorworth's no surfer
92
00:06:42,902 --> 00:06:45,739
but he wipes out
with a good grace.
93
00:06:45,739 --> 00:06:48,908
♪ We wanted to ride the waves ♪
94
00:06:48,908 --> 00:06:52,871
♪ Just to ride a
mile of ocean blast ♪
95
00:06:52,871 --> 00:06:56,499
♪ It's a hot, windy summer day ♪
96
00:06:56,499 --> 00:07:00,503
♪ And it won't be long
till we're standing tall ♪
97
00:07:00,503 --> 00:07:04,591
♪ Cutting through an ocean
full of shifting walls ♪
98
00:07:04,591 --> 00:07:08,011
♪ Reaching out to listen
as the seagulls call ♪
99
00:07:08,011 --> 00:07:11,765
♪ You begin to realize that
you're just that small ♪
100
00:07:11,765 --> 00:07:16,770
♪ Knowing that the seagull
doesn't care at all ♪
101
00:07:18,521 --> 00:07:21,191
♪ Gonna ride another wave ♪
102
00:07:21,191 --> 00:07:24,110
♪ Don't fall, don't tumble ♪
103
00:07:24,110 --> 00:07:27,864
♪ You're on your own ♪
104
00:07:27,864 --> 00:07:29,532
♪ Yeah ♪
105
00:07:46,549 --> 00:07:48,551
Peruvian surfers
they talk to sent them down
106
00:07:48,551 --> 00:07:51,971
to the little fishing
village of Cerro Azul.
107
00:08:07,237 --> 00:08:10,156
Across the bay, seabirds
watched as Doug and Yvon decided
108
00:08:10,156 --> 00:08:13,076
to see what would happen
if you went with the wave
109
00:08:13,076 --> 00:08:15,245
under that long pier.
110
00:08:15,245 --> 00:08:20,500
Maybe you'd come out the
other side still standing up.
111
00:09:09,716 --> 00:09:11,676
They'll sell their
surfboards in Lima.
112
00:09:11,676 --> 00:09:15,638
The money is getting low
as the road gets long.
113
00:09:24,898 --> 00:09:26,858
South America can
be hard on a van
114
00:09:26,858 --> 00:09:29,986
that was showing her age
when she left California.
115
00:09:29,986 --> 00:09:31,905
10 or 15 flat tires later
116
00:09:31,905 --> 00:09:34,657
and even after a
complete engine overhaul,
117
00:09:34,657 --> 00:09:38,661
she still needs some
encouragement from Yvon.
118
00:09:48,755 --> 00:09:50,924
It's funny traveling down
the length of the world,
119
00:09:50,924 --> 00:09:53,009
the seasons turn around on you.
120
00:09:53,009 --> 00:09:55,345
You start out in the summer
and pretty soon you've gone
121
00:09:55,345 --> 00:09:57,764
in the back door into spring.
122
00:10:05,939 --> 00:10:09,859
♪ We're on our way down
the road, miles to go ♪
123
00:10:09,859 --> 00:10:12,904
♪ Through the seasons ♪
124
00:10:12,904 --> 00:10:16,699
♪ We're on our way
to the desert again ♪
125
00:10:16,699 --> 00:10:21,704
♪ It's a rocky road ♪
126
00:10:26,709 --> 00:10:30,380
♪ We're on our way down
the road, miles to go ♪
127
00:10:30,380 --> 00:10:33,883
♪ Through the seasons ♪
128
00:10:33,883 --> 00:10:36,803
♪ We're on our way ♪
129
00:10:37,971 --> 00:10:39,806
"You North
Americans," the Peruvian said,
130
00:10:39,806 --> 00:10:41,808
"are gluttons for fun."
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00:10:41,808 --> 00:10:43,393
So they offered
Dick, Doug, and Yvon
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00:10:43,393 --> 00:10:46,145
a spine cracking 70
mile an hour ride
133
00:10:46,145 --> 00:10:48,064
on something that
used to be a jeep
134
00:10:48,064 --> 00:10:50,066
out over the sand dunes.
135
00:10:51,734 --> 00:10:53,903
Boys passed on that but they
did join them on the dunes
136
00:10:53,903 --> 00:10:55,738
to do a little skiing.
137
00:11:04,747 --> 00:11:06,833
The Peruvians tried
to show them how
138
00:11:06,833 --> 00:11:09,961
but Dick Dorworth is an
expert skier, a champion,
139
00:11:09,961 --> 00:11:11,713
and he started teaching them.
140
00:11:11,713 --> 00:11:13,923
Instead of just
scooting down the dune,
141
00:11:13,923 --> 00:11:15,925
try some of these link turns.
142
00:11:15,925 --> 00:11:19,262
Snow skiers have been
doing them for years.
143
00:11:28,021 --> 00:11:30,356
They tried them out but
what they really liked best
144
00:11:30,356 --> 00:11:34,861
was just speeding straight
down as fast as they could.
145
00:11:36,279 --> 00:11:38,781
And Dick could understand
that because it was down here
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00:11:38,781 --> 00:11:42,869
that he once set a world
speed record on skis.
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00:11:43,953 --> 00:11:45,872
It was in Portillo, Chile.
148
00:11:45,872 --> 00:11:48,291
A team out to break the world
speed record has prepared
149
00:11:48,291 --> 00:11:50,460
the slope of ice themselves.
150
00:11:50,460 --> 00:11:52,295
On the team, Dick Dorworth.
151
00:11:52,295 --> 00:11:53,880
After months of training,
152
00:11:53,880 --> 00:11:56,799
he's ready for a ride of
a few flashing seconds
153
00:11:56,799 --> 00:11:59,135
down the slope to
the transition point,
154
00:11:59,135 --> 00:12:01,888
where his speed
will be measured.
155
00:12:06,225 --> 00:12:09,187
The main thing to do
is to keep your body very low
156
00:12:09,187 --> 00:12:12,482
and keep very far forward,
you know, or like an egg.
157
00:12:12,482 --> 00:12:15,735
You must maintain
balance at all costs.
158
00:12:19,822 --> 00:12:21,240
When you start at Portillo,
159
00:12:21,240 --> 00:12:25,954
it's a commitment that
there's no retreat from.
160
00:12:25,954 --> 00:12:29,165
The mountain is 80 %
steepness so in 50 yards,
161
00:12:29,165 --> 00:12:33,795
you're going to be going
80 or 90 miles an hour.
162
00:12:55,525 --> 00:12:57,026
That's it.
163
00:12:57,026 --> 00:12:59,362
106 miles an hour
to set the record.
164
00:13:02,115 --> 00:13:04,993
I haven't run for
speed for quite a while now
165
00:13:04,993 --> 00:13:07,954
but because of it, it has
enhanced my pleasure skein.
166
00:13:07,954 --> 00:13:10,123
I have much more fun skiing now
167
00:13:10,123 --> 00:13:11,874
than I ever had then.
168
00:13:14,043 --> 00:13:15,211
Then
try this, Dick.
169
00:13:15,211 --> 00:13:17,088
Mount Llaima in Chile.
170
00:13:17,088 --> 00:13:21,551
A live volcano, its smooth lava
slopes, neatly snow packed.
171
00:13:21,551 --> 00:13:24,429
Maybe the longest
ski run in the world,
172
00:13:24,429 --> 00:13:28,307
it's like five ski slopes
one on top of another.
173
00:13:29,475 --> 00:13:31,102
From the little
lodge at its base,
174
00:13:31,102 --> 00:13:34,063
it's an eight hour
walk to the top.
175
00:13:34,063 --> 00:13:35,440
Yes, a walk.
176
00:13:35,440 --> 00:13:38,860
No lifts, not even a rope tow.
177
00:13:38,860 --> 00:13:41,070
This is skiing as it
was in the beginning
178
00:13:41,070 --> 00:13:42,905
when you climbed as
high as you could,
179
00:13:42,905 --> 00:13:47,076
skied as far as you'd
climbed, and then went home.
180
00:13:51,289 --> 00:13:54,042
Yvon the climber, the
surfer, the mountaineer
181
00:13:54,042 --> 00:13:55,585
is a duffer on skis,
182
00:13:55,585 --> 00:13:59,088
about as capable as Dick
Dorworth on a surfboard.
183
00:13:59,088 --> 00:14:00,882
Dick's watched
him fluff and fall
184
00:14:00,882 --> 00:14:04,010
but says Yvon's a natural skier.
185
00:14:04,010 --> 00:14:08,347
Yvon's willing to ski Mount
Llaima but at his own pace.
186
00:14:12,602 --> 00:14:15,104
Near the top, the
sulfur fumes are thick,
187
00:14:15,104 --> 00:14:16,522
the rocks are warm,
188
00:14:16,522 --> 00:14:19,358
and the volcano is breathing
quietly in its sleep.
189
00:14:19,358 --> 00:14:21,069
Doug?
190
00:14:21,069 --> 00:14:22,945
The wind was
blowing hard from the north,
191
00:14:22,945 --> 00:14:25,114
would blow the sulfur
fumes away from us
192
00:14:25,114 --> 00:14:26,949
so we could get right
to the very edge.
193
00:14:26,949 --> 00:14:28,117
I mean, right to
the absolute edge
194
00:14:28,117 --> 00:14:31,037
and stick our ski pole
right off into the smoke
195
00:14:31,037 --> 00:14:32,038
of the steamy volcano.
196
00:14:32,038 --> 00:14:35,041
I'd never been
that close before.
197
00:14:39,295 --> 00:14:42,131
It's the slope
that skiers go down endlessly
198
00:14:42,131 --> 00:14:43,216
in their dreams.
199
00:14:44,550 --> 00:14:49,555
♪ Like a wind blown rose ♪
200
00:14:53,476 --> 00:14:57,897
♪ I'm falling like
a wind blown rose ♪
201
00:15:04,946 --> 00:15:09,075
♪ I'm falling like
a wind blown rose ♪
202
00:15:15,498 --> 00:15:19,919
♪ I'm falling like
a wind blown rose ♪
203
00:16:25,401 --> 00:16:28,112
And
here comes Yvon.
204
00:16:33,826 --> 00:16:35,119
All the way
down the mountain
205
00:16:35,119 --> 00:16:36,662
is just one fall after another
206
00:16:36,662 --> 00:16:39,749
and finally I just gave
up trying to ski it
207
00:16:39,749 --> 00:16:41,334
and I'd just make a traverse
208
00:16:41,334 --> 00:16:45,254
and then kick a turn and
then make another traverse
209
00:16:45,254 --> 00:16:48,090
and I kept doing
that for 5,000 feet.
210
00:17:02,104 --> 00:17:04,357
It feels good
to be up on a mountain.
211
00:17:04,357 --> 00:17:07,610
The cold air in your lungs,
the snow under your feet.
212
00:17:07,610 --> 00:17:10,279
There's another reason
for the skiing though.
213
00:17:10,279 --> 00:17:12,448
Their summer softened
bodies are toughening up
214
00:17:12,448 --> 00:17:14,617
for the snows of Fitz Roy.
215
00:17:29,382 --> 00:17:32,343
It's September, spring in
the Chilean lake countries
216
00:17:32,343 --> 00:17:34,095
south of Mount Llaima.
217
00:17:34,095 --> 00:17:35,304
The skis have been sold
218
00:17:35,304 --> 00:17:36,806
and the last leg of
the journey takes them
219
00:17:36,806 --> 00:17:39,058
past white Mount Osorno.
220
00:17:41,310 --> 00:17:45,231
The further they go, the
less road there is to go on.
221
00:17:56,117 --> 00:17:59,161
Here the Andes step
up and out of Chile
222
00:17:59,161 --> 00:18:03,332
and down again into the
Patagonian desert in Argentina.
223
00:18:03,332 --> 00:18:06,294
The only way over the
mountains is by hopscotching
224
00:18:06,294 --> 00:18:09,297
from lake to lake
on little ferries.
225
00:18:26,564 --> 00:18:28,399
There's been a change
of plans though.
226
00:18:28,399 --> 00:18:31,736
It looks like there will only
be three against Fitz Roy.
227
00:18:31,736 --> 00:18:34,196
The young Englishman
Chris Jones didn't show up
228
00:18:34,196 --> 00:18:36,532
at the meeting place and
after a few days wait,
229
00:18:36,532 --> 00:18:39,368
they decided to
go on without him.
230
00:18:59,221 --> 00:19:01,390
When I realized
I wasn't going to make it
231
00:19:01,390 --> 00:19:04,352
and that I was going to
miss my friends in Chile,
232
00:19:04,352 --> 00:19:06,562
I said to myself if
they think they're going
233
00:19:06,562 --> 00:19:08,314
to climb Fitz Roy without me,
234
00:19:08,314 --> 00:19:10,900
they've got another
thought coming.
235
00:19:10,900 --> 00:19:12,401
There's only one
road from the north
236
00:19:12,401 --> 00:19:16,197
across the Patagonian desert
that takes you to Fitz Roy
237
00:19:16,197 --> 00:19:17,573
so I decided to hitch a lift
238
00:19:17,573 --> 00:19:20,409
to a point I knew
they'd have to pass.
239
00:19:20,409 --> 00:19:23,204
And I was prepared to sit
there all week if necessary,
240
00:19:23,204 --> 00:19:24,413
waiting for them.
241
00:19:45,851 --> 00:19:48,270
They were rather
surprised to see me
242
00:19:48,270 --> 00:19:50,439
but it wasn't until
I got in the van
243
00:19:50,439 --> 00:19:53,859
that I realized how lucky
I'd been to catch them.
244
00:19:53,859 --> 00:19:55,361
What if I had fallen asleep
245
00:19:55,361 --> 00:19:57,446
or it had been
night or something
246
00:19:57,446 --> 00:20:00,282
and they'd simply
driven straight past me?
247
00:20:00,282 --> 00:20:02,284
Then where would I have been?
248
00:20:02,284 --> 00:20:05,830
Not on my way to Fitz
Roy, that's for sure.
249
00:20:14,255 --> 00:20:17,466
It was in 1834
that a young English naturalist
250
00:20:17,466 --> 00:20:20,469
looked out on Patagonia
with something like horror
251
00:20:20,469 --> 00:20:22,888
at its wild sterility.
252
00:20:22,888 --> 00:20:25,724
He and the captain of
His Majesty's Ship Beagle
253
00:20:25,724 --> 00:20:27,726
found the South
American ostrich,
254
00:20:27,726 --> 00:20:30,813
the wild llama, horses
left by the Spaniards,
255
00:20:30,813 --> 00:20:33,315
and little else but wasteland.
256
00:20:36,902 --> 00:20:40,406
The naturalist's name
was Charles Darwin.
257
00:20:40,406 --> 00:20:43,325
The captain's name
was Robert FitzRoy.
258
00:20:51,417 --> 00:20:53,669
From 60 miles off,
you first see it.
259
00:20:53,669 --> 00:20:55,754
Blue with distance but harsh,
260
00:20:55,754 --> 00:20:58,424
defiant as a clenched fist.
261
00:20:58,424 --> 00:20:59,925
This is what you've come for
262
00:20:59,925 --> 00:21:02,678
and from here it doesn't
look difficult to climb,
263
00:21:02,678 --> 00:21:04,346
it looks impossible.
264
00:21:08,017 --> 00:21:09,393
But first
there's some 60 miles
265
00:21:09,393 --> 00:21:11,353
of Patagonia to cover.
266
00:21:11,353 --> 00:21:14,940
The Rio de las Vueltas,
the River of Turns to cross
267
00:21:14,940 --> 00:21:17,902
and then the road
gives up for good.
268
00:21:25,367 --> 00:21:27,536
Carrying all our gear
in the van was easy
269
00:21:27,536 --> 00:21:30,039
but the van had to be left here.
270
00:21:30,039 --> 00:21:32,750
Pack horses are the only
way to get to the mountain
271
00:21:32,750 --> 00:21:34,960
and then our own two legs.
272
00:21:34,960 --> 00:21:36,462
So we thought very carefully
273
00:21:36,462 --> 00:21:38,881
about what we would really need.
274
00:21:42,885 --> 00:21:44,553
The Argentine
army lends a soldier
275
00:21:44,553 --> 00:21:46,555
along with the horses
to get you to the camp
276
00:21:46,555 --> 00:21:48,891
at the base of the mountain.
277
00:21:55,064 --> 00:21:56,398
As far as anyone can remember,
278
00:21:56,398 --> 00:21:59,568
it was Doug who first
said "Let's do it,
279
00:21:59,568 --> 00:22:01,403
"let's climb Fitz Roy."
280
00:22:01,403 --> 00:22:04,406
He's in its shadow
now, a happy man.
281
00:22:12,581 --> 00:22:14,917
The weather in Patagonia
is as strange and harsh
282
00:22:14,917 --> 00:22:16,460
as the land.
283
00:22:16,460 --> 00:22:19,421
The horses and men enjoy
bright sun all morning
284
00:22:19,421 --> 00:22:20,923
but by afternoon it's raining
285
00:22:20,923 --> 00:22:23,592
and by evening the
rain's turned to snow.
286
00:22:23,592 --> 00:22:28,472
♪ No, no, no, no, don't
mind the falling rain ♪
287
00:22:34,436 --> 00:22:37,356
♪ It feels so cool ♪
288
00:22:44,613 --> 00:22:46,448
This campsite
was established by the French
289
00:22:46,448 --> 00:22:50,619
in 1952 and used again by
the Argentine expedition
290
00:22:50,619 --> 00:22:52,538
some years later.
291
00:22:52,538 --> 00:22:54,039
They hurry to set
up some shelter,
292
00:22:54,039 --> 00:22:57,626
wrestling bags and
gear in the wet cold.
293
00:22:57,626 --> 00:22:59,795
A little taste of
what's to come.
294
00:22:59,795 --> 00:23:02,548
But by the next day, Patagonia
has changed its mind.
295
00:23:02,548 --> 00:23:04,466
The weather is fine again.
296
00:23:04,466 --> 00:23:07,469
Doug and Yvon will scout
the first part of the route,
297
00:23:07,469 --> 00:23:09,888
comparing their charts
with the reality,
298
00:23:09,888 --> 00:23:13,559
while Dick and Chris
finish setting up camp.
299
00:23:22,568 --> 00:23:23,819
Despite the warm sun,
300
00:23:23,819 --> 00:23:26,071
they can feel a chill
wind off the glacier.
301
00:23:26,071 --> 00:23:28,741
Up there, Doug and Yvon
are striking the first blow
302
00:23:28,741 --> 00:23:30,409
against Fitz Roy.
303
00:23:34,038 --> 00:23:37,666
Fitz Roy is
11,289 feet high.
304
00:23:37,666 --> 00:23:39,835
Not the highest
mountain we could find
305
00:23:39,835 --> 00:23:41,503
but as every climber knows,
306
00:23:41,503 --> 00:23:42,921
the challenge of the
Patagonia Mountains
307
00:23:42,921 --> 00:23:44,465
isn't necessarily height,
308
00:23:44,465 --> 00:23:47,593
it's the technical climbing
difficulties and the weather.
309
00:23:58,937 --> 00:24:01,023
The charts and
maps don't show the storms
310
00:24:01,023 --> 00:24:04,068
that brew just 50 miles
away on the Pacific
311
00:24:04,068 --> 00:24:06,862
or the winds made down on
the continental ice cap
312
00:24:06,862 --> 00:24:10,783
that comes screaming
across Fitz Roy's glacier.
313
00:24:15,537 --> 00:24:17,081
Doug and Yvon scout
their planned route
314
00:24:17,081 --> 00:24:18,707
and it looks possible
315
00:24:18,707 --> 00:24:21,543
if the wind and weather
will let them take it.
316
00:24:21,543 --> 00:24:23,962
By late afternoon, they've
surveyed as far as a place
317
00:24:23,962 --> 00:24:26,131
for a first camp
on the mountain.
318
00:24:51,156 --> 00:24:55,786
From base camp to camp one
with equipment and supplies.
319
00:24:58,580 --> 00:25:01,542
Each of them carries
an 80 pound load.
320
00:25:01,542 --> 00:25:04,670
No one knows how much time
Fitz Roy will demand of them,
321
00:25:04,670 --> 00:25:08,549
so day after day they haul
and carry like pack animals,
322
00:25:08,549 --> 00:25:11,552
making kick steps up
the steep snow fields,
323
00:25:11,552 --> 00:25:14,012
sunburnt, bone
aching, exhausted.
324
00:25:18,726 --> 00:25:22,187
♪ The mountains are peaceful
when the morning comes ♪
325
00:25:22,187 --> 00:25:25,774
♪ And the wind will
cover our tracks again ♪
326
00:25:25,774 --> 00:25:30,571
♪ As we lift our
eyes to a fiery sun ♪
327
00:25:30,571 --> 00:25:34,199
♪ That sparkles on
fingers of ice and stone ♪
328
00:25:34,199 --> 00:25:38,036
♪ Far above where
the eagle flies ♪
329
00:25:38,036 --> 00:25:41,790
♪ There's a place where you can
reach out and touch the sky ♪
330
00:25:41,790 --> 00:25:45,961
♪ And all your troubles
just disappear ♪
331
00:25:45,961 --> 00:25:50,966
♪ When the wind is strong
and the air is clear ♪
332
00:26:05,814 --> 00:26:10,068
♪ I say, far above
where the eagle flies ♪
333
00:26:10,068 --> 00:26:13,822
♪ Is a place where you can
reach out and touch the sky ♪
334
00:26:13,822 --> 00:26:18,076
♪ And all your troubles
just disappear ♪
335
00:26:18,076 --> 00:26:23,081
♪ When the wind is strong
and the air is clear ♪
336
00:26:31,840 --> 00:26:33,759
On Fitz
Roy, tents are useless.
337
00:26:33,759 --> 00:26:36,845
The wind would snatch
them away like rags.
338
00:26:36,845 --> 00:26:40,182
The only security is in
a cave dug into the ice.
339
00:26:40,182 --> 00:26:43,769
Inside, it's wet,
cramped, dark, and cold
340
00:26:43,769 --> 00:26:45,938
but it's quiet out of the wind
341
00:26:45,938 --> 00:26:47,856
and at night it's a lot cozier
342
00:26:47,856 --> 00:26:50,692
than anything you
could find outside.
343
00:27:04,039 --> 00:27:07,835
In fact, camp one is
positively luxurious.
344
00:27:07,835 --> 00:27:10,128
A rock outcropping with
a view where you can sit
345
00:27:10,128 --> 00:27:13,966
and dry your ice-soaked
clothes in the sun.
346
00:27:16,802 --> 00:27:18,971
A visitor, an Andean condor,
347
00:27:18,971 --> 00:27:21,890
soaring on its 10
foot wingspread.
348
00:27:21,890 --> 00:27:23,892
This huge bird is
really a vulture
349
00:27:23,892 --> 00:27:28,647
and you wonder if you're being
filed for future reference.
350
00:27:34,319 --> 00:27:38,740
In 1952, a Frenchman, Lionel
Terray, led the expedition
351
00:27:38,740 --> 00:27:41,285
that climbed Fitz Roy
for the first time.
352
00:27:41,285 --> 00:27:44,079
He was one of the most
famous climbers of his day
353
00:27:44,079 --> 00:27:47,749
and he called Fitz Roy
his greatest achievement.
354
00:27:47,749 --> 00:27:50,836
But the time is now and
beyond these snow fields,
355
00:27:50,836 --> 00:27:53,130
there will be the
first real climbing.
356
00:27:53,130 --> 00:27:55,716
The mountain's in a
good mood, dazzling sun,
357
00:27:55,716 --> 00:27:57,342
calm air all day.
358
00:27:57,342 --> 00:27:58,844
If this weather holds,
359
00:27:58,844 --> 00:28:01,763
they could be on the
summit within days.
360
00:28:18,113 --> 00:28:19,781
The first vertical pitch.
361
00:28:19,781 --> 00:28:21,325
Yvon is in the lead.
362
00:28:21,325 --> 00:28:23,827
The rope around his waist is
belayed by the man below him
363
00:28:23,827 --> 00:28:26,204
who will hold him
in case of a slip.
364
00:28:26,204 --> 00:28:27,748
This is aid climbing,
365
00:28:27,748 --> 00:28:29,458
where there are no
hand or footholds
366
00:28:29,458 --> 00:28:31,960
and you ascend on aid slings,
367
00:28:31,960 --> 00:28:35,797
foot straps that are a
kind of movable ladder.
368
00:28:38,884 --> 00:28:41,887
Climbing is the kind of
mathematics of danger.
369
00:28:41,887 --> 00:28:45,015
Each problem is an
equation of rock and muscle
370
00:28:45,015 --> 00:28:48,852
and a wrong answer
could mean a fall.
371
00:28:48,852 --> 00:28:51,313
Yvon searches without
strain for solutions
372
00:28:51,313 --> 00:28:55,233
while the man belaying him
waits, watching every move.
373
00:28:59,154 --> 00:29:00,405
The lead climber's life depends
374
00:29:00,405 --> 00:29:03,951
on the pitons he
hammers in the cracks.
375
00:29:06,787 --> 00:29:08,914
The rope that will
catch him if he falls
376
00:29:08,914 --> 00:29:13,418
is threaded through carabiners
hung around the pitons.
377
00:29:41,196 --> 00:29:43,532
Alpine type climbing is
a whole mountain full
378
00:29:43,532 --> 00:29:45,283
of different problems.
379
00:29:45,283 --> 00:29:48,412
Rock walls are one,
snow is another.
380
00:29:48,412 --> 00:29:49,871
No pitons here.
381
00:29:49,871 --> 00:29:52,416
You drive the shaft of
your ice ax into the snow
382
00:29:52,416 --> 00:29:56,461
and use it for balance
while you make kick steps.
383
00:30:08,056 --> 00:30:11,435
For traction, you wear spikes
on your boots called crampons.
384
00:30:11,435 --> 00:30:16,148
If the snow is rotten, it can
give way under your weight.
385
00:30:19,901 --> 00:30:21,903
After Yvon is fixed to rope,
386
00:30:21,903 --> 00:30:23,321
Dick Dorworth, the
junior climber,
387
00:30:23,321 --> 00:30:25,907
uses a mechanical
ascender called a jumar
388
00:30:25,907 --> 00:30:27,826
to climb the rock face.
389
00:30:30,912 --> 00:30:35,417
A gear allows the jumar to
move up the rope but not down.
390
00:31:24,049 --> 00:31:26,968
Late afternoon and another
camp has to be made.
391
00:31:26,968 --> 00:31:27,969
Camp two.
392
00:31:29,179 --> 00:31:31,556
They tunnel down into
a snow filled crevasse.
393
00:31:31,556 --> 00:31:33,642
A natural hollow in the
wall of the crevasse
394
00:31:33,642 --> 00:31:37,479
makes a fine cave when the
loose snow is dug out of it.
395
00:31:37,479 --> 00:31:39,940
Only the snow in the
crevasse keeps settling
396
00:31:39,940 --> 00:31:42,109
and opening a crack
in their tunnel floor
397
00:31:42,109 --> 00:31:45,904
that has to be continually
packed with more snow.
398
00:31:55,956 --> 00:31:57,332
Fitz Roy's mood is changing.
399
00:31:57,332 --> 00:32:00,001
Storm clouds are moving in fast.
400
00:32:01,419 --> 00:32:04,172
The winds are mounting, the
temperature is dropping,
401
00:32:04,172 --> 00:32:07,926
and by the next day
you're buried in snow.
402
00:32:27,195 --> 00:32:29,990
There will be no climbing
today or tomorrow
403
00:32:29,990 --> 00:32:32,409
or the next day or the next day.
404
00:32:43,170 --> 00:32:45,213
In here, four men sit
in the murky half light
405
00:32:45,213 --> 00:32:46,381
and look at each other
406
00:32:46,381 --> 00:32:49,426
and the floor keeps opening up.
407
00:32:49,426 --> 00:32:51,636
Outside, the mountain's
wrapped in storm,
408
00:32:51,636 --> 00:32:53,638
the wind's at gale force,
409
00:32:53,638 --> 00:32:56,391
and the temperature's
way below freezing.
410
00:32:56,391 --> 00:32:58,059
Dick?
411
00:32:58,059 --> 00:33:00,562
Each day became
the same, day after day.
412
00:33:00,562 --> 00:33:02,147
You can read so long
413
00:33:02,147 --> 00:33:04,649
and you can talk
about things so long
414
00:33:04,649 --> 00:33:08,236
and you can think
by yourself so long.
415
00:33:08,236 --> 00:33:11,156
You learn your own
rhythm of doing things.
416
00:33:31,760 --> 00:33:34,262
After days of
being bottled up in the cave,
417
00:33:34,262 --> 00:33:36,348
any let up in the weather
is an excuse to get out
418
00:33:36,348 --> 00:33:38,266
and at least look around,
419
00:33:38,266 --> 00:33:41,686
to prove to yourself no
movement is possible.
420
00:33:41,686 --> 00:33:43,480
Against 100 mile an hour winds,
421
00:33:43,480 --> 00:33:46,274
Doug and Chris try
to make it to a cull
422
00:33:46,274 --> 00:33:50,111
where they can see if
the storm is letting up.
423
00:33:51,488 --> 00:33:52,656
No good.
424
00:33:52,656 --> 00:33:55,075
Not far from camp,
they're beaten by wind,
425
00:33:55,075 --> 00:33:57,661
blind with snow,
frozen to the bone,
426
00:33:57,661 --> 00:34:01,373
and within a few minutes
they're back inside.
427
00:34:21,518 --> 00:34:23,395
You lose track of the days.
428
00:34:23,395 --> 00:34:26,481
One said it was 15 days they
were nestled in the mountain,
429
00:34:26,481 --> 00:34:28,692
another said 18, another 20.
430
00:34:30,151 --> 00:34:31,820
It's always twilight inside
431
00:34:31,820 --> 00:34:35,365
and the only time that
counts is meal time.
432
00:34:36,825 --> 00:34:41,329
♪ I'm alone to think about all
the faces that I've known ♪
433
00:34:47,252 --> 00:34:50,088
♪ I wanna go home ♪
434
00:34:55,260 --> 00:34:57,512
They drink soup
that gets thinner and thinner
435
00:34:57,512 --> 00:34:59,264
and they tell tales.
436
00:34:59,264 --> 00:35:02,767
The oldest escape of
men trapped together.
437
00:35:05,687 --> 00:35:08,607
Yvon tells about
California and being warm,
438
00:35:08,607 --> 00:35:11,443
the ocean, about
girls, and you listen
439
00:35:11,443 --> 00:35:13,611
between sleeping and waking.
440
00:35:13,611 --> 00:35:16,531
It seems sometimes that you're
dreaming of being trapped
441
00:35:16,531 --> 00:35:18,783
in a cave of ice in Patagonia
442
00:35:18,783 --> 00:35:21,620
and that all the
time you're home.
443
00:35:25,290 --> 00:35:30,211
♪ To think about California
in my ♪
444
00:35:32,630 --> 00:35:37,218
♪ I wanna go home ♪
445
00:35:37,218 --> 00:35:41,222
♪ I wanna go home ♪
446
00:35:41,222 --> 00:35:44,309
♪ I wanna go home ♪
447
00:35:58,573 --> 00:36:03,286
♪ I wanna go home ♪
448
00:36:03,286 --> 00:36:06,206
♪ Wanna go home ♪
449
00:36:25,850 --> 00:36:27,268
When the
food's finally gone,
450
00:36:27,268 --> 00:36:29,437
they retreat from camp two.
451
00:36:38,655 --> 00:36:41,658
If it had been any storm
but a Patagonian storm,
452
00:36:41,658 --> 00:36:45,662
Yvon might have suggested
going on with the climb.
453
00:36:45,662 --> 00:36:48,873
Whether we climbers
want to admit it or not,
454
00:36:48,873 --> 00:36:52,293
90 % of the times that
we retreat from storms
455
00:36:52,293 --> 00:36:55,505
we could have gone on and
just climbed right on through.
456
00:36:55,505 --> 00:36:58,466
Most storms in the mountains
are merely uncomfortable,
457
00:36:58,466 --> 00:36:59,634
they won't kill you,
458
00:36:59,634 --> 00:37:02,429
but on Fitz Roy these
storms are a different story
459
00:37:02,429 --> 00:37:05,640
and you knew you had
to get out of there.
460
00:37:07,892 --> 00:37:09,853
After weeks
of being caged in ice,
461
00:37:09,853 --> 00:37:13,314
even going down
seems like progress.
462
00:37:13,314 --> 00:37:14,816
In the face of the storm,
463
00:37:14,816 --> 00:37:18,486
they rappel down the walls
they climbed up foot by foot,
464
00:37:18,486 --> 00:37:21,406
all the way back
down to base camp.
465
00:37:51,311 --> 00:37:53,605
Back in base camp, the
foul weather keeps up.
466
00:37:53,605 --> 00:37:56,774
Chill rain, snow, high winds.
467
00:37:56,774 --> 00:37:58,943
For nearly a month, there's
nothing to do but scavenge
468
00:37:58,943 --> 00:38:01,863
and try to keep
warm and kill time.
469
00:38:08,953 --> 00:38:11,372
Yvon ekes out their supplies
by learning to bake bread
470
00:38:11,372 --> 00:38:13,333
in the oven
thoughtfully left behind
471
00:38:13,333 --> 00:38:16,920
by the French expedition
so many years before.
472
00:38:32,810 --> 00:38:35,480
And then suddenly one evening
the clouds have shattered,
473
00:38:35,480 --> 00:38:38,399
the sky is red, and as
every climber knows,
474
00:38:38,399 --> 00:38:42,821
red sky at evening means
fine weather in the morning.
475
00:39:02,590 --> 00:39:05,843
♪ Cold morning ♪
476
00:39:05,843 --> 00:39:10,098
♪ Such a windy
mountain morning ♪
477
00:39:10,098 --> 00:39:12,517
♪ They are ready today ♪
478
00:39:12,517 --> 00:39:17,522
♪ They were ready
a long time ago ♪
479
00:39:19,440 --> 00:39:24,445
♪ Oh, a brave man with a
primal sense of danger ♪
480
00:39:27,448 --> 00:39:32,370
♪ Climbing for the
kingdom above the clouds ♪
481
00:39:36,791 --> 00:39:38,626
Down here
at the end of the world
482
00:39:38,626 --> 00:39:41,546
when good weather comes,
it comes from the south,
483
00:39:41,546 --> 00:39:44,549
riding on winds
from the Antarctic.
484
00:39:44,549 --> 00:39:49,137
Up on Fitz Roy, day comes
wrapped in clear inhuman cold,
485
00:39:49,137 --> 00:39:50,972
cold that split stone.
486
00:39:51,973 --> 00:39:54,726
The glacier moves an inch.
487
00:39:54,726 --> 00:39:56,394
The wind screams.
488
00:39:57,645 --> 00:39:58,813
Nothing lives.
489
00:40:01,566 --> 00:40:04,736
All the way back up to
where camp two used to be,
490
00:40:04,736 --> 00:40:09,574
doing it all again against
an old enemy, the wild wind.
491
00:40:52,784 --> 00:40:54,952
It took us over
an hour to find camp two.
492
00:40:54,952 --> 00:40:57,580
It was buried under at
least 20 feet of new snow.
493
00:40:57,580 --> 00:41:02,543
We had neglected to mark the
entrance to our ice cave.
494
00:41:02,543 --> 00:41:04,587
From here, we can
see tomorrow's climb.
495
00:41:04,587 --> 00:41:06,964
We can plot an imaginary
line up 2,000 feet
496
00:41:06,964 --> 00:41:09,133
of frozen granite.
497
00:41:09,133 --> 00:41:10,635
If the weather holds,
498
00:41:10,635 --> 00:41:15,473
we'll see if that line can
really take us to the summit.
499
00:41:31,823 --> 00:41:33,574
2:30 a.m.
500
00:41:33,574 --> 00:41:36,244
Yvon leads the first pitch.
501
00:41:36,244 --> 00:41:37,954
Mountains are
very silent and ominous
502
00:41:37,954 --> 00:41:39,664
this early in the morning.
503
00:41:39,664 --> 00:41:40,915
You have a lot of fear
504
00:41:40,915 --> 00:41:43,584
because fear of the
dark for one thing
505
00:41:43,584 --> 00:41:46,671
and fear of sticking
your neck out.
506
00:41:46,671 --> 00:41:47,922
Anyway, early in the morning,
507
00:41:47,922 --> 00:41:51,843
there's just no brave
men early in the morning.
508
00:41:53,010 --> 00:41:54,846
The
pre-dawn cold is intense
509
00:41:54,846 --> 00:41:57,181
but fingerless
gloves are necessary.
510
00:41:57,181 --> 00:42:01,102
Bare fingertips can find a
hole where gloves would slip.
511
00:42:01,102 --> 00:42:03,604
You try to rub some
life into frozen fingers
512
00:42:03,604 --> 00:42:06,024
while you plan the next move.
513
00:42:22,582 --> 00:42:23,875
6:00 a.m.
514
00:42:23,875 --> 00:42:27,003
Yvon the careful problem
solver has exchanged lead
515
00:42:27,003 --> 00:42:30,047
with Doug the risk
taker, the charger.
516
00:42:57,074 --> 00:42:58,576
Their scouting led
them to believe
517
00:42:58,576 --> 00:43:01,746
that by this time the climbing
should be getting easier.
518
00:43:01,746 --> 00:43:02,997
It's not.
519
00:43:02,997 --> 00:43:05,917
Above each crest,
they find new walls.
520
00:43:05,917 --> 00:43:09,170
But the granite is good,
rough surfaced, and cracked
521
00:43:09,170 --> 00:43:12,215
and they move fast
for a rope of four.
522
00:43:12,215 --> 00:43:14,175
Doug and Yvon are
the climbing team.
523
00:43:14,175 --> 00:43:17,804
Chris Jones and Dick Dorworth
are the hauling team.
524
00:43:17,804 --> 00:43:19,096
Between the four of them,
525
00:43:19,096 --> 00:43:21,849
even when the hand holes
turned to finger holes
526
00:43:21,849 --> 00:43:24,685
and the foot holes become
almost non-existent,
527
00:43:24,685 --> 00:43:27,814
one way or another
they keep going up.
528
00:43:54,674 --> 00:43:55,883
10:00 a.m.
529
00:43:55,883 --> 00:43:57,718
Far back, Dick
Dorworth struggles
530
00:43:57,718 --> 00:44:00,888
with the mountain on his own.
531
00:44:00,888 --> 00:44:03,266
Most of the
climb, I was the last man.
532
00:44:03,266 --> 00:44:04,767
I was always hustling
to get up to them
533
00:44:04,767 --> 00:44:07,144
so they'd have
more ropes to use.
534
00:44:07,144 --> 00:44:10,231
Usually by the time I would
get to the top of a rope,
535
00:44:10,231 --> 00:44:11,983
the rest the guys
would have gone on
536
00:44:11,983 --> 00:44:13,818
and left another rope for me.
537
00:44:13,818 --> 00:44:15,653
So very often I was just alone.
538
00:44:15,653 --> 00:44:17,029
I'd get to the top of a pitch
539
00:44:17,029 --> 00:44:20,283
and I'd have to coil the
rope I just jumared up
540
00:44:20,283 --> 00:44:23,870
and get on the next
rope and go up that.
541
00:44:24,829 --> 00:44:27,957
A lot of times, I would
get behind everyone else
542
00:44:27,957 --> 00:44:32,169
and I would find myself alone
on the side of Fitz Roy.
543
00:44:32,169 --> 00:44:34,839
Sometimes it
started to get to me
544
00:44:34,839 --> 00:44:36,924
but I never dwelled on it.
545
00:44:36,924 --> 00:44:40,928
I just got on my jumars
and jumared up the rope,
546
00:44:40,928 --> 00:44:44,682
got on the next rope,
and jumared up that.
547
00:44:58,946 --> 00:45:00,197
2:00 p.m.
548
00:45:00,197 --> 00:45:02,950
The way is blocked by
a series of towers.
549
00:45:02,950 --> 00:45:06,454
The only way up the first
tower is a difficult crack.
550
00:45:06,454 --> 00:45:10,374
Doug's willing to let
Yvon have first go at it.
551
00:45:21,802 --> 00:45:23,179
Yvon the graceful,
552
00:45:23,179 --> 00:45:25,348
the climber who never
seemed to show strain
553
00:45:25,348 --> 00:45:27,808
even at the most
difficult points.
554
00:45:27,808 --> 00:45:32,021
In the end, fingers numb,
boots frozen hard as iron,
555
00:45:32,021 --> 00:45:35,983
all his expertise depends
on the strength of his arms
556
00:45:35,983 --> 00:45:37,902
and his legs and his will.
557
00:46:14,939 --> 00:46:16,232
3:00 p.m.
558
00:46:16,232 --> 00:46:18,401
There's an unknown number
of pitches left to do
559
00:46:18,401 --> 00:46:21,195
and not much daylight
left to do them in.
560
00:46:21,195 --> 00:46:22,363
On this side of the mountain,
561
00:46:22,363 --> 00:46:25,950
oncoming weather can't
be seen before it hits
562
00:46:25,950 --> 00:46:28,452
and if it hits, it'll hit hard.
563
00:46:32,039 --> 00:46:34,125
Doug struggles up
snow plastered rock
564
00:46:34,125 --> 00:46:35,960
while Yvon belays him.
565
00:46:40,131 --> 00:46:41,841
This close to the summit,
566
00:46:41,841 --> 00:46:44,135
the wind cuts through
the cracks and chimneys,
567
00:46:44,135 --> 00:46:46,470
knife-edged and bitter cold.
568
00:47:06,282 --> 00:47:09,493
A chimney is a crack
wide enough to get into.
569
00:47:09,493 --> 00:47:12,997
This one's fairly easy
climbing for a while.
570
00:47:12,997 --> 00:47:15,583
Then toward the top,
it narrows sharply
571
00:47:15,583 --> 00:47:18,961
and it's Doug's turn
to feel the squeeze.
572
00:47:39,899 --> 00:47:41,525
When a crack's wide
enough for your hand
573
00:47:41,525 --> 00:47:44,528
but offers no lip to
take hold of, you jam,
574
00:47:44,528 --> 00:47:49,033
force your hand in, make a
fist, and pull yourself up.
575
00:48:28,239 --> 00:48:29,073
5:00 p.m.
576
00:48:30,282 --> 00:48:33,035
A traversing pitch takes
Yvon around the corner
577
00:48:33,035 --> 00:48:34,578
of the last tower.
578
00:48:34,578 --> 00:48:36,413
Beyond him, he can
see the snow field
579
00:48:36,413 --> 00:48:38,207
that leads to the summit.
580
00:48:38,207 --> 00:48:41,252
That snow field has to be
reached before the light fails.
581
00:48:41,252 --> 00:48:43,254
To be caught up here
at night in the storm
582
00:48:43,254 --> 00:48:47,091
that could come at any
hour would be death.
583
00:49:07,695 --> 00:49:09,196
6:00 p.m.
584
00:49:09,196 --> 00:49:11,991
There are still an unknown
number of pitches left to do
585
00:49:11,991 --> 00:49:14,577
as Doug takes over
the lead again.
586
00:49:55,326 --> 00:49:56,493
That's it.
587
00:50:03,250 --> 00:50:06,337
Off to the west, they can
see another storm gathering.
588
00:50:06,337 --> 00:50:07,796
That means they've
got more hours
589
00:50:07,796 --> 00:50:12,259
of climbing yet to do tonight
to get down to camp two.
590
00:50:12,259 --> 00:50:13,761
They ought to turn
back right now
591
00:50:13,761 --> 00:50:16,513
and get as far as they can
from this exposed place
592
00:50:16,513 --> 00:50:19,183
but they won't turn back till
they've stood on the summit,
593
00:50:19,183 --> 00:50:23,145
just for a moment, just
to taste their victory.
594
00:50:44,291 --> 00:50:47,795
♪ We have lived
with the mountains ♪
595
00:50:47,795 --> 00:50:51,715
♪ We have shared many days ♪
596
00:50:51,715 --> 00:50:55,803
♪ Now we're free, it's
such a long road ♪
597
00:50:55,803 --> 00:50:59,682
♪ To the kingdom in the clouds ♪
598
00:51:06,730 --> 00:51:10,150
♪ Run, run, run,
run, run, run, run ♪
599
00:51:10,150 --> 00:51:14,321
♪ Running, don't know why ♪
600
00:51:14,321 --> 00:51:17,741
♪ Looking for a place to go ♪
601
00:51:17,741 --> 00:51:22,162
♪ Always reaching high ♪
602
00:51:22,162 --> 00:51:27,084
♪ I remember thinking last
time that I was home to stay ♪
603
00:51:30,170 --> 00:51:33,173
♪ Now I have to leave
that home life ♪
604
00:51:33,173 --> 00:51:38,178
♪ But I'll be back someday ♪
605
00:51:39,596 --> 00:51:43,183
♪ Cause my love is strong
as the wind that blows ♪
606
00:51:43,183 --> 00:51:46,437
♪ Down from the northern snow ♪
607
00:51:46,437 --> 00:51:50,691
♪ It's time to get on the road
with some friends of mine ♪
608
00:51:50,691 --> 00:51:55,696
♪ Freedom, freedom is
another life that we share ♪
609
00:51:57,197 --> 00:52:00,868
♪ South to the border,
stopping where we may ♪
610
00:52:00,868 --> 00:52:05,289
♪ No one cares how
we spend our days ♪
611
00:52:14,757 --> 00:52:18,552
♪ Watching the road
through dusty windows ♪
612
00:52:18,552 --> 00:52:22,639
♪ Riding the waves
in ♪
613
00:52:22,639 --> 00:52:26,477
♪ My and my van ♪
614
00:52:26,477 --> 00:52:30,314
♪ Racing away down
icy mountains ♪
615
00:52:30,314 --> 00:52:35,152
♪ Watching the road
through dusty windows ♪
48593
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