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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:00,225 --> 00:00:02,975 (wind whooshing) 2 00:00:06,668 --> 00:00:09,248 (upbeat music) 3 00:00:34,527 --> 00:00:37,357 (energetic music) 4 00:01:07,389 --> 00:01:08,569 (gentle music) 5 00:01:08,570 --> 00:01:11,090 - [Narrator] Our journey begins at the Isles of Shoals, 6 00:01:11,090 --> 00:01:14,550 off the Maine coast before crossing to the mainland 7 00:01:14,550 --> 00:01:16,840 and the harbor town of Kittery. 8 00:01:16,840 --> 00:01:19,320 From there, our journey heads northeast, 9 00:01:19,320 --> 00:01:22,380 up the coast, past small harbors and rivers, 10 00:01:22,380 --> 00:01:24,870 to Kennebunkport and the summer home 11 00:01:24,870 --> 00:01:26,360 of a presidential family. 12 00:01:27,250 --> 00:01:30,940 Continuing up the coast, past islands and lighthouses, 13 00:01:30,940 --> 00:01:33,680 are the harbor and city of Portland. 14 00:01:33,680 --> 00:01:37,050 And in the large bay to the north are the Calendar Islands 15 00:01:37,050 --> 00:01:38,930 and Brunswick, home to one 16 00:01:38,930 --> 00:01:42,210 of the best known 19th century writers. 17 00:01:42,210 --> 00:01:45,770 Our journey ends at the nearby historic shipyard of Bath. 18 00:01:49,690 --> 00:01:52,190 We start our journey six miles off the coast 19 00:01:52,186 --> 00:01:55,586 at the Isles of Shoals, which straddle the border 20 00:01:55,590 --> 00:01:57,890 between the states of Maine and New Hampshire. 21 00:01:59,700 --> 00:02:02,220 Back in the 17th century, all the islands were 22 00:02:02,220 --> 00:02:05,380 under the control of the Massachusetts Bay Colony 23 00:02:05,380 --> 00:02:08,460 when Maine and New Hampshire were still just provinces 24 00:02:08,460 --> 00:02:10,820 and not yet American states. 25 00:02:12,150 --> 00:02:14,920 The islands were first used by Native Americans 26 00:02:14,920 --> 00:02:18,120 as fishing grounds before the first Europeans set foot 27 00:02:18,120 --> 00:02:20,030 on them in 1623. 28 00:02:23,530 --> 00:02:24,960 By the 18th century, 29 00:02:24,960 --> 00:02:27,640 a fairly prosperous community was living here 30 00:02:27,640 --> 00:02:29,450 until the War of Independence, 31 00:02:29,450 --> 00:02:31,950 when the islanders were evacuated to the mainland. 32 00:02:32,827 --> 00:02:33,807 It was not until the middle 33 00:02:33,810 --> 00:02:35,320 of the 19th century (seabirds crying) 34 00:02:35,320 --> 00:02:38,910 that two investors opened a popular summer hotel 35 00:02:38,910 --> 00:02:41,450 and later played host to an arts community. 36 00:02:43,749 --> 00:02:46,899 Since 1915, a number of the islands have belonged 37 00:02:46,900 --> 00:02:49,400 to the Star Island Corporation, 38 00:02:49,400 --> 00:02:52,770 a non-profit religious retreat and conference center. 39 00:02:53,840 --> 00:02:57,430 During the summer, it hosts a number of week-long events, 40 00:02:57,432 --> 00:02:59,942 making use of the old Oceanic Hotel. 41 00:03:02,170 --> 00:03:05,420 In 1914, the local people erected an obelisk 42 00:03:05,420 --> 00:03:07,840 in honor of the Reverend John Tucke, 43 00:03:07,840 --> 00:03:10,600 who, in the 18th century, served the community 44 00:03:10,600 --> 00:03:12,160 for over 40 years. 45 00:03:15,600 --> 00:03:20,090 The largest island in the group is Appledore, at 95 acres. 46 00:03:20,090 --> 00:03:22,780 It was home to a large hotel during the 19th century, 47 00:03:22,777 --> 00:03:25,637 but this burned to the ground in 1914. 48 00:03:27,250 --> 00:03:30,110 Today, the island is the operating station 49 00:03:30,110 --> 00:03:32,170 of the Shoals Marine Laboratory. 50 00:03:34,860 --> 00:03:37,660 Some of the smaller islands, like Lunging Island, 51 00:03:37,660 --> 00:03:39,110 are privately owned, 52 00:03:39,110 --> 00:03:41,400 and a perfect place to get away from it all. 53 00:03:41,398 --> 00:03:44,228 (seabirds crying) 54 00:03:47,310 --> 00:03:50,870 On the mainland, the state border divides the harbor towns 55 00:03:50,870 --> 00:03:51,700 of Portsmouth, (boat horn honking) 56 00:03:51,703 --> 00:03:53,813 in New Hampshire, and Kittery in Maine. 57 00:03:53,813 --> 00:03:55,363 (boat engine hums) 58 00:03:55,360 --> 00:03:58,100 And in the harbor entrance, ships have been warned 59 00:03:58,100 --> 00:04:02,010 of dangerous rocks since 1820 by Whaleback Light. 60 00:04:02,930 --> 00:04:05,970 The lighthouse was rebuilt in 1872, 61 00:04:05,970 --> 00:04:08,560 following storm damage to its predecessor. 62 00:04:12,010 --> 00:04:14,780 In the middle of the harbor, is Seavey Island, 63 00:04:14,780 --> 00:04:16,870 and an historic naval shipyard. 64 00:04:16,871 --> 00:04:19,451 (gentle music) 65 00:04:23,010 --> 00:04:25,690 There has been a dispute between Maine and New Hampshire 66 00:04:25,690 --> 00:04:28,970 over its ownership for nearly 200 years, 67 00:04:28,970 --> 00:04:31,440 and it was only settled in Maine's favor 68 00:04:31,440 --> 00:04:35,660 as recently as 2001 by the US Supreme Court. 69 00:04:37,440 --> 00:04:39,340 Though now officially in Maine, 70 00:04:39,340 --> 00:04:42,430 the dock yard is still called Portsmouth Naval Shipyard. 71 00:04:43,340 --> 00:04:46,600 The present yard was established back in 1800 72 00:04:46,600 --> 00:04:50,020 at the behest of America's second president, John Adams. 73 00:04:53,630 --> 00:04:57,210 This makes the shipyard the oldest continuously operating 74 00:04:57,210 --> 00:04:59,130 one in the United States, 75 00:04:59,130 --> 00:05:01,340 and one of the first ships to be launched 76 00:05:01,340 --> 00:05:05,720 was the 74-gun warship USS Washington in 1815. 77 00:05:09,061 --> 00:05:11,811 A hundred years later, during the first world war, 78 00:05:11,810 --> 00:05:14,260 the shipyard began to build submarines, 79 00:05:14,260 --> 00:05:16,870 which continued through the second world war, 80 00:05:16,870 --> 00:05:18,610 when over 70 were built. 81 00:05:22,180 --> 00:05:24,760 Many of the buildings of the island are registered 82 00:05:24,760 --> 00:05:27,960 as historic places, include the naval prison, 83 00:05:27,960 --> 00:05:31,620 built in 1905, and dubbed The Castle. 84 00:05:34,400 --> 00:05:35,800 During World War II, 85 00:05:35,800 --> 00:05:39,230 it held many captured German U-boat crews. 86 00:05:39,230 --> 00:05:41,700 The prison was finally closed in 1974. 87 00:05:45,698 --> 00:05:48,868 Guarding the harbor and shipyard in previous centuries 88 00:05:48,870 --> 00:05:52,000 was Fort McClary, built in 1808. 89 00:05:53,760 --> 00:05:56,900 It was finally decommissioned in 1918. 90 00:06:00,960 --> 00:06:04,020 A few miles up the coast is the town of York Harbor. 91 00:06:05,360 --> 00:06:06,980 During the war of independence, 92 00:06:06,980 --> 00:06:09,290 when the Isles of Shoals were abandoned, 93 00:06:09,290 --> 00:06:12,300 some of the fisherman took down their small, wooden houses 94 00:06:12,300 --> 00:06:16,770 and literally floated them across the bay to York Harbor, 95 00:06:16,770 --> 00:06:19,140 where they were hauled ashore and rebuilt. 96 00:06:20,420 --> 00:06:22,340 This once-prosperous sea port 97 00:06:22,340 --> 00:06:25,330 boasts several fine 18th century mansions. 98 00:06:25,333 --> 00:06:26,983 (gentle music) 99 00:06:26,980 --> 00:06:29,950 One of them is upstream, overlooking the river, 100 00:06:29,950 --> 00:06:33,330 the Sayward-Wheeler House, built in the 1720s. 101 00:06:35,290 --> 00:06:38,890 It was the home of Jonathan Sayward, a local merchant 102 00:06:38,890 --> 00:06:40,650 and respected civic leader. 103 00:06:41,720 --> 00:06:45,230 He remodeled the house in the 1760s in the latest styles 104 00:06:45,230 --> 00:06:49,380 from England and adapted for a colonial way of life. 105 00:06:51,600 --> 00:06:53,930 After his death, his descendants decided 106 00:06:53,930 --> 00:06:56,150 to change very little in the house, 107 00:06:56,150 --> 00:06:58,700 probably due to a lack of money. 108 00:06:58,700 --> 00:07:00,970 As a result, the house is a time capsule 109 00:07:00,970 --> 00:07:05,410 of 18th century taste and one of the finest colonial houses 110 00:07:05,410 --> 00:07:07,290 on America's Eastern Seaboard. 111 00:07:11,720 --> 00:07:15,280 There are more than 60 lighthouses along the coast of Maine, 112 00:07:15,280 --> 00:07:17,900 which in the days before radar and GPS, 113 00:07:17,900 --> 00:07:20,460 were vital for keeping ships out of danger. 114 00:07:20,457 --> 00:07:23,027 (gentle music) 115 00:07:23,030 --> 00:07:26,030 One of the best known stands on Nubble Island 116 00:07:26,030 --> 00:07:27,450 at the end of Cape Neddick 117 00:07:27,451 --> 00:07:28,901 (seabirds crying) 118 00:07:28,900 --> 00:07:33,270 In 1874, the US Congress appropriated $15,000 119 00:07:34,430 --> 00:07:36,500 to build a light station here, 120 00:07:36,500 --> 00:07:39,700 and it's still in use today. (seabird crying) 121 00:07:39,700 --> 00:07:41,820 Locally known as The Nubble Light, 122 00:07:41,820 --> 00:07:45,210 it's an American landmark, so much so, 123 00:07:45,210 --> 00:07:47,060 that an image of the lighthouse was carried 124 00:07:47,060 --> 00:07:50,820 in the Voyager Spacecraft along with the Great Wall of China 125 00:07:50,820 --> 00:07:54,300 and the Taj Mahal in case it fell into the hands 126 00:07:54,300 --> 00:07:56,570 of intelligent extraterrestrials. 127 00:07:58,260 --> 00:08:00,970 Unusually, the stanchions of the walkway railing 128 00:08:00,970 --> 00:08:03,410 around the lantern room are decorated 129 00:08:03,410 --> 00:08:07,110 with four-inch brass replicas of the lighthouse itself. 130 00:08:08,330 --> 00:08:10,970 The Nubble Light has appeared on more postcards, 131 00:08:10,970 --> 00:08:13,000 calendars, and other souvenirs 132 00:08:13,000 --> 00:08:16,020 than almost any other New England lighthouse. 133 00:08:20,242 --> 00:08:21,742 (gentle music) 134 00:08:21,740 --> 00:08:23,170 Many of the old fishing villages 135 00:08:23,170 --> 00:08:25,970 have now become popular places to visit. 136 00:08:25,970 --> 00:08:30,370 Ogunquit, which meant coastal lagoon to the Abenaki Indians, 137 00:08:30,370 --> 00:08:34,740 is one of the most popular, and especially Perkins Cove, 138 00:08:34,740 --> 00:08:36,830 with its much-photographed drawbridge. 139 00:08:36,827 --> 00:08:38,117 (seabirds crying) 140 00:08:38,120 --> 00:08:41,990 Back in the 19th century, this was the haunt of artists 141 00:08:41,990 --> 00:08:44,670 who would be seen painting alongside the fishermen 142 00:08:44,670 --> 00:08:47,160 as they both plied their respective trades. 143 00:08:48,410 --> 00:08:51,950 At the same time, large houses were built for the rich, 144 00:08:51,950 --> 00:08:53,060 which have since been turned 145 00:08:53,060 --> 00:08:57,290 into hotels like Beachmere Inn, built in the 1880s. 146 00:08:58,520 --> 00:09:01,650 Today the coastline attracts visitors from far afield, 147 00:09:01,650 --> 00:09:04,090 and especially in the autumn when the color 148 00:09:04,090 --> 00:09:07,120 of the trees resembles an artist's palette. 149 00:09:10,400 --> 00:09:12,470 The three-and-a-half mile beach is one 150 00:09:12,470 --> 00:09:14,680 of the areas main attractions, 151 00:09:14,680 --> 00:09:18,800 and forms a natural peninsula protecting the Ogunquit River. 152 00:09:18,800 --> 00:09:21,830 (water swashing) 153 00:09:21,830 --> 00:09:24,770 All along this stretch of coast, slow flowing, 154 00:09:24,770 --> 00:09:27,540 meandering rivers make it a perfect place 155 00:09:27,540 --> 00:09:30,950 to quietly paddle a canoe and be amazed 156 00:09:30,950 --> 00:09:35,220 by the autumn colors on view. (birds singing) 157 00:09:39,250 --> 00:09:42,290 This is the beautiful Mousam River. 158 00:09:51,240 --> 00:09:54,630 The river flows out to sea near Kennebunkport Beach, 159 00:09:54,630 --> 00:09:57,810 where expensive houses of all shapes and sizes 160 00:09:57,810 --> 00:09:59,530 line the coast. 161 00:09:59,533 --> 00:10:02,123 (gentle music) 162 00:10:03,940 --> 00:10:08,470 Kennebunkport, itself, was named after the river in 1821. 163 00:10:10,030 --> 00:10:11,910 There had been a European settlement here 164 00:10:11,910 --> 00:10:14,450 since the mid-17th century, 165 00:10:14,450 --> 00:10:16,620 but following Native Indian attacks, 166 00:10:16,620 --> 00:10:19,370 it was largely abandoned until the 18th century. 167 00:10:20,630 --> 00:10:23,440 Shipping and trade then prospered along the river, 168 00:10:23,440 --> 00:10:25,050 and the town began to grow. 169 00:10:25,046 --> 00:10:26,836 (birds chirping) 170 00:10:26,840 --> 00:10:29,210 By the 19th century, the town had developed 171 00:10:29,210 --> 00:10:31,170 into a summer destination, 172 00:10:31,170 --> 00:10:34,150 and it's been growing in popularity ever since. 173 00:10:36,800 --> 00:10:40,680 Kennebunkport is also well known for its seafood, 174 00:10:40,680 --> 00:10:44,390 and one restaurant guide voted the takeaway Clam Shack 175 00:10:44,390 --> 00:10:47,160 one of the top 10 in the United States. 176 00:10:48,760 --> 00:10:51,770 Over the years, it has served two presidents 177 00:10:51,770 --> 00:10:56,100 and several world leaders who did not have to wait in line, 178 00:10:58,340 --> 00:11:01,610 because just up the coast, on Walker's Point, 179 00:11:01,610 --> 00:11:03,050 is the Bush compound. 180 00:11:05,440 --> 00:11:07,640 Here they entertained world leaders, 181 00:11:07,640 --> 00:11:11,800 including Margaret Thatcher, Mikhail Gorbachev, 182 00:11:11,800 --> 00:11:14,900 Vladimir Putin, and Nicolas Sarkozy, 183 00:11:16,709 --> 00:11:19,729 and the Secret Service detail on duty would have to go 184 00:11:19,730 --> 00:11:22,760 and pick up the order of lobster rolls and fries 185 00:11:22,760 --> 00:11:23,950 from The Clam Shack. 186 00:11:25,518 --> 00:11:28,268 (birds chirping) 187 00:11:29,170 --> 00:11:31,150 A few miles up the Kennebunk river 188 00:11:31,150 --> 00:11:32,800 is the Wedding Cake House. 189 00:11:34,520 --> 00:11:38,970 It was begun by the ship builder, George Bourne, in 1825 190 00:11:38,968 --> 00:11:42,668 in a style which became known as Carpenter Gothic. 191 00:11:43,610 --> 00:11:46,020 He had traveled to Italy and been very impressed 192 00:11:46,020 --> 00:11:48,680 by the Gothic beauty of Milan Cathedral. 193 00:11:50,490 --> 00:11:53,830 On his return, and using only hand tools, 194 00:11:53,830 --> 00:11:56,780 he set about building his Gothic house. 195 00:11:56,780 --> 00:11:59,040 His only help was one of the apprentices 196 00:11:59,040 --> 00:11:59,970 from his shipyard. 197 00:11:59,970 --> 00:12:02,030 (gentle music) 198 00:12:02,027 --> 00:12:03,897 George Borne spent the rest 199 00:12:03,900 --> 00:12:06,660 of his life adding embellishments, 200 00:12:06,660 --> 00:12:10,850 and it was said of him that he knew no limits to his skill. 201 00:12:10,853 --> 00:12:14,353 (birds chirping) 202 00:12:14,350 --> 00:12:17,160 10 miles up the coast is Biddeford Pool 203 00:12:17,160 --> 00:12:20,020 and the site of the first recorded, permanent settlement 204 00:12:20,020 --> 00:12:22,270 in Maine during the early 17th century. 205 00:12:22,265 --> 00:12:24,435 (gentle music) 206 00:12:24,440 --> 00:12:27,300 Back in those days, it was called Winter Harbor, 207 00:12:27,300 --> 00:12:29,690 and the growing village suffered several attacks 208 00:12:29,690 --> 00:12:32,280 from Indians for the next hundred years. 209 00:12:33,130 --> 00:12:34,890 Today, Biddeford Pool is invaded 210 00:12:34,890 --> 00:12:37,270 by more peaceful visitors who come from 211 00:12:37,270 --> 00:12:40,550 across the United States as well as from Canada 212 00:12:40,550 --> 00:12:43,010 to enjoy the spectacular coastline. 213 00:12:44,960 --> 00:12:47,510 And from the golf club on the north side, 214 00:12:47,510 --> 00:12:50,560 the players get a good view of Wood Island 215 00:12:50,560 --> 00:12:55,420 and a 19th century story of murder, suicides, and ghosts. 216 00:12:55,418 --> 00:12:57,998 (gentle music) 217 00:12:59,980 --> 00:13:02,660 Wood Island Lighthouse is the second oldest 218 00:13:02,660 --> 00:13:06,020 in the state of Maine and was built in 1858. 219 00:13:06,940 --> 00:13:11,530 38 years later, a drunken drifter named Howard Hobbs, 220 00:13:11,530 --> 00:13:14,220 who rented a small shack on Wood Island, 221 00:13:14,220 --> 00:13:16,800 was on the mainland when the local sheriff threatened 222 00:13:16,800 --> 00:13:19,420 to arrest him over a row with his wife. 223 00:13:20,530 --> 00:13:23,980 Hobbs shot the sheriff and fled to his shack 224 00:13:23,980 --> 00:13:25,070 on Wood Island. 225 00:13:26,660 --> 00:13:29,740 He confronted the lighthouse keeper, Mr. Orcutt, 226 00:13:29,740 --> 00:13:32,400 at his house, who tried to persuade Hobbs 227 00:13:32,400 --> 00:13:33,540 to give himself up. 228 00:13:34,570 --> 00:13:38,310 He did not succeed, and Hobbs went back to his shack 229 00:13:38,310 --> 00:13:39,440 and shot himself. 230 00:13:39,435 --> 00:13:41,985 (water swashing) 231 00:13:41,990 --> 00:13:44,490 Over the years following this incident, 232 00:13:44,490 --> 00:13:47,450 groans were heard coming from the shack, 233 00:13:47,450 --> 00:13:49,900 a shadow of a ghostly figure witnessed, 234 00:13:49,900 --> 00:13:53,040 and locked doors were mysteriously left opened. 235 00:13:55,560 --> 00:13:58,620 The next lighthouse keeper was slowly being driven mad 236 00:13:58,620 --> 00:14:03,450 by it all, and one night in 1905, rode to the mainland, 237 00:14:03,450 --> 00:14:06,100 and the next morning he jumped to his death. 238 00:14:07,530 --> 00:14:11,890 In 2005, a paranormal research team began carrying out 239 00:14:11,890 --> 00:14:14,370 an investigation into the hauntings, 240 00:14:14,370 --> 00:14:18,830 which merely adds to the mystery of the strange goings-on 241 00:14:18,830 --> 00:14:20,360 at Wood Island Light. 242 00:14:24,230 --> 00:14:28,160 Across the bay is Prouts Neck, a small peninsula town. 243 00:14:28,161 --> 00:14:30,881 (gentle music) 244 00:14:30,880 --> 00:14:32,720 By the end of the 19th century, 245 00:14:32,720 --> 00:14:34,980 it had became a very fashionable place 246 00:14:34,980 --> 00:14:38,180 to have what was called a summer cottage, 247 00:14:38,180 --> 00:14:40,690 though cottage may not exactly be the right description 248 00:14:40,686 --> 00:14:42,506 of these large houses. 249 00:14:42,510 --> 00:14:46,000 (birds chirping) 250 00:14:46,000 --> 00:14:48,210 Today, many of the houses are still owned 251 00:14:48,210 --> 00:14:52,770 by the same families who built them over 100 years earlier. 252 00:14:52,766 --> 00:14:54,786 (seabird crying) 253 00:14:54,790 --> 00:14:58,150 In 1883, one of America's most influential 254 00:14:58,150 --> 00:15:01,600 19th century artists moved to Prouts Neck, 255 00:15:01,600 --> 00:15:04,140 where he spent the rest of his life, 256 00:15:04,140 --> 00:15:05,340 Winslow Homer. 257 00:15:07,430 --> 00:15:10,880 He remodeled a carriage house on his parents' estate. 258 00:15:10,883 --> 00:15:14,983 For the next 20 years, he struggled to sell his paintings, 259 00:15:14,980 --> 00:15:17,360 but at least he had the support of his parents, 260 00:15:17,360 --> 00:15:18,680 and later his brother. 261 00:15:21,730 --> 00:15:25,880 By 1900, his paintings and, in particular, his seascapes, 262 00:15:25,880 --> 00:15:27,800 were beginning to be sold well, 263 00:15:27,800 --> 00:15:30,790 and he finally reached success as an artist 264 00:15:30,790 --> 00:15:33,120 as well as gaining financial security. 265 00:15:34,210 --> 00:15:38,740 Winslow Homer died in this studio in 1910 266 00:15:38,740 --> 00:15:40,110 at the age of 74. 267 00:15:40,110 --> 00:15:42,860 (dramatic music) 268 00:15:48,470 --> 00:15:50,470 Today, the studio has been acquired 269 00:15:50,470 --> 00:15:54,140 by the Portland Museum of Art in order to celebrate 270 00:15:54,140 --> 00:15:56,400 one of America's greatest painters. 271 00:16:00,690 --> 00:16:03,110 Cape Elizabeth stands at the southern entrance 272 00:16:03,110 --> 00:16:07,370 to Portland Harbor, and before two lighthouses were built, 273 00:16:07,370 --> 00:16:09,430 ships would be wrecked on the rocks 274 00:16:09,430 --> 00:16:11,620 as they tried to round the point at night. 275 00:16:11,615 --> 00:16:12,825 (gentle music) 276 00:16:12,830 --> 00:16:16,000 The first lights were constructed back in 1828 277 00:16:15,997 --> 00:16:20,437 but were later replaced with two cast iron ones in 1873. 278 00:16:21,869 --> 00:16:25,219 But this two-light system was discontinued in 1924 279 00:16:26,470 --> 00:16:29,020 and the inland lighthouse sold off. 280 00:16:30,530 --> 00:16:33,030 Cape Elizabeth Light, nearest the coast, 281 00:16:33,030 --> 00:16:34,400 is still in service. 282 00:16:36,920 --> 00:16:39,000 Ships entering Portland Harbor 283 00:16:39,000 --> 00:16:41,380 then encounter another light standing out 284 00:16:41,380 --> 00:16:43,360 on a dangerous rocky promontory. 285 00:16:44,610 --> 00:16:47,930 Portland Head Light was commissioned by George Washington 286 00:16:47,930 --> 00:16:50,320 and completed in 1791. 287 00:16:50,319 --> 00:16:51,289 (water swashing) (seabirds crying) 288 00:16:51,290 --> 00:16:54,730 Since then, the tower has been shortened by 20 feet 289 00:16:54,730 --> 00:16:57,330 and then raised again in 1864. 290 00:16:58,950 --> 00:17:03,200 The poet, Henry Wadsworth Longfellow, who lived in Portland, 291 00:17:03,200 --> 00:17:06,280 often visited the light and was, perhaps, inspired 292 00:17:06,280 --> 00:17:08,880 to write his poem "The Lighthouse." 293 00:17:10,860 --> 00:17:15,860 Two verses read the rocky ledge runs far into the sea 294 00:17:16,040 --> 00:17:18,930 and on its outer point some miles away, 295 00:17:18,930 --> 00:17:22,680 the lighthouse lifts its massive masonry, 296 00:17:22,680 --> 00:17:26,180 a pillar of fire by night, of cloud by day, 297 00:17:26,178 --> 00:17:27,678 (seabirds crying) 298 00:17:27,680 --> 00:17:30,990 and the great ships sail outward and return, 299 00:17:30,990 --> 00:17:34,340 bending and bowing over the billowy swells, 300 00:17:34,340 --> 00:17:37,430 and ever joyful, as they see it burn, 301 00:17:37,430 --> 00:17:41,080 they wave their silent welcome and farewells. 302 00:17:41,078 --> 00:17:43,908 (water swashing) 303 00:17:45,060 --> 00:17:48,680 At the entrance to Portland Harbor are two forts. 304 00:17:48,680 --> 00:17:52,200 The first is Fort Scammell on House Island, 305 00:17:52,200 --> 00:17:56,350 built in 1808 and modernized during the 1850s. 306 00:17:56,350 --> 00:17:58,160 (military cadence music) 307 00:17:58,160 --> 00:18:03,060 Between 1907 and 1937, the island and fort were used 308 00:18:03,060 --> 00:18:07,090 as an immigration center and considered the north's version 309 00:18:07,090 --> 00:18:09,280 of Ellis Island in New York Harbor. 310 00:18:11,320 --> 00:18:15,670 In 1857, Fort George was added to the defense of the harbor. 311 00:18:15,665 --> 00:18:18,915 (water swashing) 312 00:18:18,923 --> 00:18:21,513 (gentle music) 313 00:18:27,570 --> 00:18:30,570 Portland is the largest city in Maine, 314 00:18:30,570 --> 00:18:33,800 and for 12 years, from 1820, was the capital 315 00:18:33,800 --> 00:18:37,260 of the new state until the status was conferred 316 00:18:37,260 --> 00:18:39,680 upon Augusta in 1832. 317 00:18:43,050 --> 00:18:46,260 The city's Latin motto is Resurgam, 318 00:18:46,260 --> 00:18:48,340 meaning I will rise again. 319 00:18:50,550 --> 00:18:55,080 This refers to Portland's Great Fire of 1866, 320 00:18:55,080 --> 00:18:57,630 which destroyed 1800 buildings 321 00:18:57,630 --> 00:19:00,660 and made over 10,000 people homeless. 322 00:19:00,660 --> 00:19:03,790 At the time, it was America's greatest fire. 323 00:19:06,480 --> 00:19:08,980 The poet, Henry Wadsworth Longfellow, 324 00:19:08,980 --> 00:19:12,400 whose poem "The Lighthouse" we heard some lines from earlier 325 00:19:12,400 --> 00:19:17,400 described the fire as desolation, desolation, desolation. 326 00:19:17,800 --> 00:19:19,910 It reminds me of Pompeii. 327 00:19:21,630 --> 00:19:24,920 Longfellow was born in Portland in 1807, 328 00:19:24,920 --> 00:19:27,050 and lived in this house with his parents 329 00:19:27,050 --> 00:19:29,270 until he left for college. 330 00:19:29,270 --> 00:19:32,680 He was to gain great popularity in his own lifetime, 331 00:19:32,682 --> 00:19:35,972 writing poems about mythology and legend, 332 00:19:35,970 --> 00:19:37,780 and today is considered one 333 00:19:37,780 --> 00:19:41,340 of the most distinguished poets America has ever produced. 334 00:19:41,344 --> 00:19:43,754 (birds chirping) 335 00:19:43,747 --> 00:19:46,287 (boat engine hums) 336 00:19:46,290 --> 00:19:50,010 Portland Harbor sits on the southern end of Casco Bay 337 00:19:50,010 --> 00:19:51,260 and the Calendar Islands. 338 00:19:51,261 --> 00:19:52,371 (upbeat music) 339 00:19:52,370 --> 00:19:55,110 The name of the islands is based on the myth 340 00:19:55,110 --> 00:19:57,360 that there are 365 of them. 341 00:19:58,350 --> 00:20:00,760 It was first reported back in 1700 342 00:20:00,760 --> 00:20:03,510 by a British Military Engineer who said there were 343 00:20:03,510 --> 00:20:06,270 as many islands as there are days of the year. 344 00:20:07,320 --> 00:20:11,810 In fact, there are only 136, but the name stuck anyway. 345 00:20:11,809 --> 00:20:15,209 Small ferries link the islands, 346 00:20:15,210 --> 00:20:19,130 and the bay offers great sailing as well as fishing. 347 00:20:19,130 --> 00:20:21,100 Most of the islands are inhabited, 348 00:20:21,100 --> 00:20:24,620 but some of the smaller ones have only a few houses. 349 00:20:24,621 --> 00:20:27,051 (birds chirping) 350 00:20:27,050 --> 00:20:32,050 In 1912, a Mr. Leon Leonwood Bean opened a small store 351 00:20:32,540 --> 00:20:34,500 in the basement of his brother's clothes shop 352 00:20:34,500 --> 00:20:36,120 in Freeport. 353 00:20:36,120 --> 00:20:40,240 He started to sell the Bean Boot or the Maine Hunting Shoe. 354 00:20:41,090 --> 00:20:45,430 He called the store L. L. Bean, and it became so popular 355 00:20:45,430 --> 00:20:49,990 that in 1951, it started to open 24 hours a day. 356 00:20:52,330 --> 00:20:56,640 His stores expanded into Freeport's principal business, 357 00:20:56,640 --> 00:20:59,570 and today it's a worldwide company 358 00:20:59,570 --> 00:21:02,830 with sales totalling over a billion dollars a year. 359 00:21:05,799 --> 00:21:06,629 (birds chirping) 360 00:21:06,632 --> 00:21:08,672 A few miles outside Freeport 361 00:21:08,670 --> 00:21:12,670 is an interesting natural curiosity, a desert 362 00:21:12,670 --> 00:21:14,800 in the middle of Maine. 363 00:21:14,800 --> 00:21:18,660 It may look like sand, but it's actually glacial silt 364 00:21:18,660 --> 00:21:21,400 which was deposited 10,000 years ago, 365 00:21:21,400 --> 00:21:24,320 and is around 25 meters deep. 366 00:21:24,320 --> 00:21:27,830 Over the following centuries, topsoil formed a cap, 367 00:21:27,830 --> 00:21:30,080 enabling trees and grass to grow. 368 00:21:30,077 --> 00:21:31,097 (birds chirping) 369 00:21:31,100 --> 00:21:34,200 It was exposed as a result of a local farmer 370 00:21:34,200 --> 00:21:37,230 in the late 18th century who cleared the ground 371 00:21:37,232 --> 00:21:40,102 and then failed to rotate his crops, 372 00:21:40,100 --> 00:21:43,650 which, together with overgrazing, led to soil erosion 373 00:21:43,650 --> 00:21:45,040 and this sand-like dune. 374 00:21:45,043 --> 00:21:46,753 (gentle music) (birds chirping) 375 00:21:46,750 --> 00:21:49,500 As the desert spread, the farmer gave up trying 376 00:21:49,500 --> 00:21:52,650 to control it and let nature take its course. 377 00:21:54,380 --> 00:21:57,740 The site was bought in 1919 and turned 378 00:21:57,740 --> 00:22:00,130 into a tourist attraction. (birds chirping) 379 00:22:00,130 --> 00:22:03,530 In the 1950s, there was a real camel on the site, 380 00:22:03,530 --> 00:22:07,090 but as it spat at the tourists, it was sent to a zoo, 381 00:22:07,090 --> 00:22:09,420 and a life-sized statue replaced it. 382 00:22:13,562 --> 00:22:15,692 (gentle music) 383 00:22:15,694 --> 00:22:18,614 A few miles to the east is the town of Brunswick 384 00:22:18,610 --> 00:22:23,180 and one of America's top 10 universities, Bowdoin College. 385 00:22:24,100 --> 00:22:26,440 Unlike most successful universities, 386 00:22:26,440 --> 00:22:28,510 Bowdoin has remained small, 387 00:22:28,514 --> 00:22:31,684 and only has a student population of 1700. 388 00:22:35,720 --> 00:22:38,370 The college was founded in 1794, 389 00:22:38,370 --> 00:22:41,470 and two preeminent writers graduated here 390 00:22:41,470 --> 00:22:46,470 in the same year, 1825, Nathaniel Hawthorne, the novelist, 391 00:22:46,905 --> 00:22:50,195 and Henry Wadsworth Longfellow, the poet. 392 00:22:50,203 --> 00:22:53,783 ("Battle Hymn of the Republic") 393 00:22:53,780 --> 00:22:55,180 The college's connections 394 00:22:55,180 --> 00:22:58,260 to the American Civil War prompted people to say 395 00:22:58,255 --> 00:23:01,945 that the war began and ended in Brunswick 396 00:23:01,950 --> 00:23:05,010 because a Bowdoin professor received the surrender 397 00:23:05,010 --> 00:23:08,170 of the Confederate Army in 1865, 398 00:23:08,170 --> 00:23:10,140 and the wife of another professor 399 00:23:10,140 --> 00:23:11,920 began writing the one book 400 00:23:11,920 --> 00:23:15,440 that influenced the start of it in 1852, 401 00:23:15,437 --> 00:23:16,947 "Uncle Tom's Cabin". 402 00:23:21,070 --> 00:23:23,950 The writer was Harriet Beecher Stowe, 403 00:23:23,950 --> 00:23:27,710 who, along with her husband, was an ardent abolitionist, 404 00:23:27,710 --> 00:23:30,210 and her book picturing life as a slave 405 00:23:30,210 --> 00:23:34,430 sold over 300,000 copies in the first year, 406 00:23:34,430 --> 00:23:37,150 making it the most successful American novel 407 00:23:37,150 --> 00:23:38,440 of the 19th century. 408 00:23:40,450 --> 00:23:45,430 She even housed fugitive slaves here in her Brunswick house, 409 00:23:45,430 --> 00:23:47,230 where she wrote the book, 410 00:23:47,230 --> 00:23:49,910 which prompted President Lincoln to say to her, 411 00:23:49,907 --> 00:23:52,757 "So you are the little woman who wrote the book 412 00:23:52,757 --> 00:23:54,547 "that started this great war." 413 00:23:59,950 --> 00:24:03,630 From Brunswick, it's not far to our final destination 414 00:24:03,630 --> 00:24:07,040 at the ship-building town of Bath on the Kennebec River. 415 00:24:07,036 --> 00:24:09,616 (upbeat music) 416 00:24:11,000 --> 00:24:15,660 This US Navy ship is being built at the Bath Iron Works. 417 00:24:15,660 --> 00:24:18,190 The yard was founded in 1884 418 00:24:18,190 --> 00:24:20,680 and has been building war ships ever since. 419 00:24:22,030 --> 00:24:25,420 During World War II, ships built in the Bath Iron Works 420 00:24:25,420 --> 00:24:28,220 were considered to be of superior toughness, 421 00:24:28,220 --> 00:24:32,440 which gave rise to the saying Bath-built is best-built. 422 00:24:33,540 --> 00:24:36,030 At the peak of production during the war, 423 00:24:36,030 --> 00:24:40,440 the shipyard launched a destroyer every 17 days, 424 00:24:40,440 --> 00:24:42,260 a quite remarkable feat. 425 00:24:43,630 --> 00:24:44,460 Over the years, 426 00:24:44,463 --> 00:24:47,293 the yard has designed and constructed battle ships, 427 00:24:47,290 --> 00:24:50,560 frigates, cruisers, and destroyers, 428 00:24:50,560 --> 00:24:53,770 including the latest Arleigh Burke class destroyers, 429 00:24:53,770 --> 00:24:54,820 which are among the world's 430 00:24:54,820 --> 00:24:57,320 most advanced surface warships. 431 00:24:58,420 --> 00:25:03,000 In 2001, the yard built an enormous concrete platform 432 00:25:03,000 --> 00:25:05,680 for the final assembly of these ships. 433 00:25:05,680 --> 00:25:08,490 This means ships do not have to be built on a slope 434 00:25:08,490 --> 00:25:11,980 in order to be launched, but constructed on the level 435 00:25:11,980 --> 00:25:14,400 and then transferred to the platform. 436 00:25:14,400 --> 00:25:15,880 When the ship is finished, 437 00:25:15,880 --> 00:25:18,180 the platform is lowered in the water, 438 00:25:18,180 --> 00:25:20,250 and the new ship floats off. 439 00:25:25,290 --> 00:25:27,970 And it's here that we end this journey 440 00:25:27,974 --> 00:25:30,674 along the picturesque coast of Maine. 441 00:25:37,471 --> 00:25:40,051 (gentle music) 442 00:26:00,418 --> 00:26:03,498 (graphics whooshing) 33357

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