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- [Man] Eight, seven, six,

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- [Men] Go, go, go, go, go.

Woohoo!

- [Man] Whoah!

(grunting)

(cheering)

- [Narrator] Welcome to the Sixth Annual

Reel Rock Film Tour.

(electronic music)

Presented by Wind Stopper,

the ultimate technical fabric

for your climbing adventures.

Providing high quality,

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breathability for comfort.

Wind Stopper.

Also presented by:

The North Face.

Pushing the limits of exploration

for more than 40 years.

The North Face:

Never stop exploring.

Featuring new releases
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- [Man] Nobody belongs here.

It's just so cold.

- [Man] I want to be pushing
the limits all the time.

- [Man] Tomorrow is the
day of our big push.

I'm nervous.

- [Man] Come on, Ashima.

You see this young girl
and you say to yourself,

"She has it."

- [Man] I've spent 30 years ice climbing.

My dream always was to find a cave

with icicles all the way out of it.

- [Man] It is the most badass competition.

Everything's going to
have to go perfectly.

Any little thing is
going to slow you down.

(clanking)

- Fuck.

- [Narrator] Also sponsored by Evolv.

Introducing the Shaman,

designed and developed by Chris Sharma.

The evolution continues.

(hooting)

Petzl: A life in the vertical.

Sterling Rope: The best
handling ropes on the planet.

Goal Zero: Introducing
the Nomad 7 Solar Panel

and the Guide 10 Battery Pack.

Power your adventures.

Clif Bar: Nutrition for sustained energy,

feeding the best climbers
around the world.

Climbing Magazine and Urban Climber,

the leading voice of
the climbing community,

in print and online.

Reel Rock also supports
the American Alpine Club,

where climbers unite,

and the Access Fund,

preserving your climbing future.

Reel Rock 2011 brings you
six cutting edge films.

- No gear, don't fall.

- I'm good.

(wind blowing)

- Oh my God.

- Oh, man!

Look at all the icicles this year, my God!

(rock music)

Wow, there's so much
more ice than last year.

To see it in these conditions is like,

this is what we came for.

- That is amazing.

- Helmcken Falls is a really
big, really violent place.

It's about 500 feet high,

and there's too much water
for it too ever freeze,

which is cool because when
the water hits the ground

and bounces around, it makes spray,

and the walls are below freezing,

so you get ice forming on the walls

of an overhanging cave.

And that's what we're here to climb,

is that overhanging ice.

(whimsical music)

- Will is probably the most experienced

of any ice climber in this generation.

He's put up some of the
hardest routes in the world,

and he's probably been on
more ice climbing adventures

to wild and remote
places than anyone else.

(electronic music)

He's pretty switched on,
and he's a real adventurer.

(laughing)

- I did my first ice climb, I think,

when I was 13 or 14 years old.

I've been at it for 30
years one way or the other,

and I've seen ice climbing
change dramatically

in that 30 years.

Traditional ice climbing,
it's just beautiful,

but it's not often all
that physically hard.

- The hardest ice climbs in the world,

they're never more than vertical.

It's like hanging off a massive jug

at the climbing wall.

- The only way to make it really hard

is to make it really dangerous.

You know, thinner and thinner pieces

of ice are interesting,

huh,

but you're going to get killed doing that.

In about 1997, this thing
called mixed climbing

started forming up.

- [Tim] You're climbing on very
steep rock between icicles.

- [Will] That just took off,

and they had to have a competition.

(electronic disco music)

- [Tim] The first time I met Will,

we were doing the Ice
Climbing World Cup in Austria.

- [Will] In competitions,
people spray snow

and water together onto walls.

- It was obviously artificial,

but you learned such a
variety of techniques.

It just seemed a bit mad
and a bit futuristic,

and I'll never forget thinking,

"Wow, I wonder if one day someone's going

"to be climbing like
this on a proper cliff."

- [Will] The dream
always was to find a cave

that was like a couple hundred feet high

with icicles all the way out of it,

and ice that you could climb,
overhanging ice features.

That was the dream.

- [Tim] Helmcken Falls, it is that place.

- The dream is here.

The dream is real now.

It's waiting for us right
now, we should go climb it.

Let's go.

(tense music)

- The closer you get to the waterfall,

the louder it becomes.

(water roaring)

And it's almost like a
dragon that breathes.

- [Will] It's an intimidating,
intense place down there.

- It is, honestly.

It's like the maddest
place I've ever been.

- It's like looking out
the mouth of a shark.

It's just icicles hanging
as far as your eye can see.

The whole time you're in
there, you're looking up.

- Like there's pieces of
ice the size of busses

that are just hanging by a
tiny piece, and they break off.

- [Will] Oh sh--

- If they land on you,
you're going to die.

You're like, "Fucking Hell.

"I'm not sure that I want to go in there."

- First thing we've got
to do is make a path

into where we're going to
belay and start climbing.

Yeah!

Think this is a reasonable place to stand.

- Last year, we came
here, and I looked at it,

and I was like, "How are
we going to climb up that?"

There weren't any cracks to put gear in,

and the ice wasn't strong
enough to take ice screws.

I thought, "Well, how are
we going to protect it?"

But in the meanwhile,

Will started drilling the first bolt.

Bolts and ice climbs don't
normally go together,

but we're not climbing on water ice,

we're climbing on spray ice.

- It's like when you leave something

in your freezer too long
and it gets freezer burnt.

It just goes in like butter.

Like, there's no way that
an ice screw would hold.

So, we put about 10 bolts up the cave.

- We got maybe 30 meters
up a 150-plus meter wall.

- [Tim] Yeah, it's just the start.

- We got a lot left to do.

Our route from last year
basically went up to

that really big broken one,

and there's a belay somewhere
in that ice up there.

We're gonna break our way out

to where our old belay was,

then go straight out that
roof and then on upward.

- [Tim] It looks totally different
to what it did last year.

- How do you find the bolts,

'cause they got covered by ice.

This question puzzled me for a long time.

So I went and bought a metal detector.

(beeping)

I don't think I've done
very many smart things

in my life, but I'm feeling
pretty smart about that.

- Send up the secret weapon, please.

Brilliant.

Aha!

Yes, it's right here!

- [Will] Yay!

- It's under the ice right there.

- [Will] Nice.

- It works!

(laughing)

I mean, look at this.

He's got a radio, a metal
detector and three ice axes.

If that's not pioneering,
I don't know what is.

(screaming)

Jesus.

That is so spicy.

- I could climb up here
and look for the anchor,

or you can climb up here
and look for the anchor.

- Mate, you might as
well get to the anchor

and then I'll take you on and keep going.

- [Will] Okay.

- Are you happy with that?

- [Will] I don't know if
"happy" is the right word,

but yeah, I'm in.

(laughing)

- It's a massive task.

You need to clear a path
in between all the icicles,

and then you climb on the ice behind it.

- I always wanted to go into a china shop

and just start swinging a bat,

and this is kind of like that.

You've got to knock
everything apart to go up .

- [Tim] Yeah!

- Wow, I think we've got a solid one.

Whoa!

(laughing)

I'm pretty psyched to come down now.

(light guitar music)

- [Tim] So we've basically
spent the last four days

equipping the route to
the edge of the roof,

and I feel pretty worked.

I don't know about you,
mate, how do you feel?

- [Will] I'm destroyed.

- [Tim] Tomorrow, we're going to ditch

all the heavy artillery,

get the fruit boots on and
start doing some climbing.

- [Will] It just has to stay cold,

because if it warms up
to +1 or +2 Celsius,

this will be totally unclimbable.

Your tools will just rip,
the ice will fall off,

you'll wreck the route.

So I just hope that we get
to actually free climb it

before the ice falls off.

- [Tim] Right now, it's +5.

- [Will] So what do you think?

- I think we should wait
until it gets colder again.

If we go up there and we
rip all the holds off,

then that's it, it's end of story.

- The thing is, if we rip off, like,

half the holds up there, you know,

there's 50 percent left.

I think we should just do it.

- Okay, cool.

(chill music)

Last year, we did the first pitch

and it was the hardest
ice climb in the world,

just because it's completely different

to anything that's been done before.

Nice, Will.

And once you get to the top of that,

you've got a roof, which,

it's like that, you know,

for a really, really, really long way.

We didn't know whether we'd be able

to get through it or not.

You can do some upside down climbing.

Okay, Will, climbing!

Other than the competitions,

this was the first really
overhanging ice climbing

that I'd ever done.

Ah, man, it's so fun.

It is properly horizontal
climbing, and it's just mad.

Shit.

- [Will] Come on!

Yeah, that's it.

- [Tim] It's so three dimensional

when you're underneath the roof

and you're thinking,

"Well, do I face that way or that way,"

It gets really confusing.

Ah, shit.

Shite!

- [Will] Dude!

Good work!

- [Tim] Hey, mate, should
I pass on the baton?

- [Will] I'll have a go, sure, I'm stoked.

(chill music)

The ice is so soft.

- Come on, mate!

Come on!

- Will is the wizard
of ice climbing tricks.

He's such an ice, kind of ninja.

- Come on.

Yeah!

- [Tim] Nice, man.

- Yeah!

- [Tim] Nice.

- It was worth it, we did the right thing!

- I was really inspired,

so I went back up, yeah, and I did it.

I was pretty psyched, actually,

because I got to the end
of the pitch, I was like,

"Ooh, I've got a little bit more left."

"I could so something a
bit harder than that."

(chill music)

- [Will] Get it Tim, come on.

Yeah!

- Come on, now.

- [Will] How's it?

Yeah Tim!

Come on, now.

Yeah!

- Take this!

I've never done anything like that.

When I got the belay, I was like,

"Oh my God, I've done it."

That is magic.

I was quite shocked, really,

and then it was Will's turn to try

and get through the roof and
get to the top of the ice.

- Traditional ice climbing for
me now is an aesthetic sport.

It's looking for the coolest formation,

like a sculpture to climb.

By that definition alone, Helmcken Falls

is the coolest ice feature
that I've ever seen.

but it's also hard.

♪ Back to that attic where it all began ♪

- When I first started ice climbing,

I had this vision in my
head of a cave filled

with icicles that went out forever.

This is that dream made real.

- [Tim] Come on, Will.

What we've done here, it's just a start.

The potential for the future is massive.

- [Will] This stuff, in a
way, is a whole new medium.

We're just figuring it out,

and that's really exciting for me.

♪ Round and round and ♪

♪ Round and round and ♪

♪ Round and round and ♪

♪ Round and round ♪

- This is a cool moment.

I'm old enough now that I
can look at my life and go,

"Yeah, you don't get
many moments like this."

(laughing)

What a great place, dude.

(cheering)

(wind blowing)

- [Man] What the fuck am I doing here?

We have to get down.

(coughing)

(somber music)

(wind howling)

- Okay, okay, so,

the only things that I want to ask you is

do you confirm that the
first and the second

should be the only day
that the sun could appear?

Because if we will not start,

for sure we have to stay
one week here waiting.

So we will do this attempt.

Yes, thank you, thank you, Cam.

Bye bye.

So we have to go.

(light music)

- I love the mountains.

I grew up in them, climbing with Dad.

He taught me everything.

even put away his Himalayan
dreams to start a family,

gave this to me, and then,

I was such a fuck up,

until climbing set me straight.

I love this.

But I'm scared.

So many things here are trying to kill me.

I think of the lessons
I learned from my dad,

how he always tells me, "Go gently."

These guys, do they feel
the same gnawing fear?

The same doubt?

- Denis now is very old man.

With his eyes.

He has problems, he fell down in crevasse.

- But 40 meters deep, very deep crevasse.

- Denis, ka, no!

- I was shaken a little bit

because when I fell down and make turn

there was small fixation
with the bottom, my eyes.

- Disappear.

- [Cory] Jesus Christ, who are these guys?

- There was immediately
Cory, off there, on there.

- I felt it, it was very helpful for me.

- Beautiful.
- Very helpful for me.

- You feel extra power in this moment.

(coughing)

(somber music)

- [Cory] Beautiful.

Spectacular.

Free.

But it's just so cold.

My friends, family, I just
got engaged before this trip.

They know this is me, support
me, but now, so alone.

We are very, very alone.

Up past the bodies in camp four.

Nobody belongs here.

As if I needed reminding.

- We didn't recover completely.

It was only three days in base camp.

We spent four days on the mountain

and three days only in basecamp.

So these is the things that make me worry

that maybe we don't have power enough.

Tonight at dinner, will be Barbariska.

- "Da," goulash.

- Ciao, Barbara.

Thank you very much for goulash.

- It's foggy in here, right?

- Yeah.

(panting)

- We're just starting and I'm wasted.

Simone hacks, coughs, spits
up blood every morning,

and then his laughter and
joking, it's so genuine.

He truly loves the suffering.

Denis, I think suffering is
a part of his Soviet DNA.

And me, I don't know.

Just a few days ago,
feeling so fresh, so strong.

But now, I can't stop thinking about home.

The little things.

Liv's kiss, Mom and Dad,

holding a cup of coffee in my hands.

Just before dawn, I want to turn around,

but I don't say anything.

The sun's not up yet

and I'm tired, freezing, freezing cold.

Then the first rays hit me, grace me,

not yet with warmth but with light,

and I know now that I'm alive again

and a part of this world.

(coughing)

(wind blowing)

It's not a celebration, really.

There is no release here.

We're only halfway.

We still have to get down.

Let's get the fuck out of here.

This is where everyone dies.

The storm hits so fast.

I can't see.

None of us can see.

What's going on?

- [Simone] I'm listening to music, U2.

- U2?
- Yeah.

But, of course, it's fucking cold.

- [Cory] How cold?

- [Simone] Minus 46 centigrade.

- [Cory] In the morning, Simone pukes

and we all piss so dark

it looks like blood.

We barely speak.

Barely look each other in the eye.

Just a string of robotic motions.

We hear it before we see it.

A horrible roar.

I know that my life is over.

(avalanche roaring)

Ever since I started climbing mountains,

I wondered what this would feel like.

Clawing towards the surface.

And then I hear a voice.

- [Simone] Here!

Hey Cory, we are safe!

- [Cory] Just tell me what happened.

(somber music)

Big avalanche.

Somehow, we all got lucky.

We're on the home stretch now.

No more fear.

Somehow, in all of this,

I know there's incomprehensible beauty.

In this moment, I feel strength.

Maybe I am strong enough.

But I don't know.

I still don't know.

(wind howling)

(wind howling)

- I've dedicated 10 years of
my life to climbing on El Cap.

And the past five years

have been on this route specifically.

And tomorrow is the day of our big push.

(electronic music)

- [Kevin] We've been climbing
all over the wall Top roping,

and jugging, and just figuring
out where the route goes.

- [Tommy] We've done all the moves,

we've done all the sequences now.

But the goal is to start on the ground

and for both of us to free
climb every pitch bottom to top.

This is the first point that I feel like

we're totally prepared to give it a shot.

- [Tommy] We're goin' for it.

See what happens up there.

- [Kevin] I'm nervous.

The style of climbing on El
Cap is so dicey and insecure.

Much of today's high-end climbing

is done on very steep rock.

This is dead vertical.

So the movement is much different.

It's terrible footholds,
terrible handholds.

It's very precarious climbing.

Moves that you can slip off very easily.

And really complex sequences.

- [Tommy] Yeah, man, good work.

Hell, yeah.

- Only the third pitch.

(groaning)

Tommy's better than anyone
at this style of climbing.

It's been a pleasure
learning that technique

from him over the past year.

He spent the last decade
climbing on El Cap,

so he's written the book on how to stand

on these footholds and how
to make the most of the rests

and, you know, interpret the granite

and figure out the sequences.

It's just super impressive to watch him

totally in his element.

And you can tell that, you know,

this is what he was born to do.

- Oh shoot.

We're on pitch seven.

The first 5 14 pitch.

And Kevin and I are
giving it hell right now.

(grunting)

Yeah!

Come on!

You got it!

(groaning)

- [Kevin] Yeah.

(huffing)

Come on.

Yeah.

Go.

Finish it, Tommy.

Come on!

Come on, Tommy!

Come on!

(screaming)

- [Tommy] Yeah, come on.

You got it, Kevin, come on!

Come on, come on!

- Woo!

- [Tommy] Ow!

- Thanks for leading that one, man.

Yeah, man.

Right there.

Nice.

(howling)

We climbed 'til like
1:30 last night, I think.

Then today I just chilled
all day it was so nice.

We slept in.

And feel decently rested, actually.

Living on the wall takes its toll on you.

- [Tommy] You forget what
it feels like to walk.

Everything is a little bit harder.

You're in a constant state of
getting worn down each day.

I mean, on top of that, you know,

we're also trying to free
this monster of a route

that we've been working on.

We're up here just baking in the sun.

The only time that the
conditions get good is at night.

- [Kevin] We just chill and take it easy

in the middle of the day

while it's hot and then
climb at night in the dark.

- We rested all day.

We're gonna climb this pitch tonight.

This next 13C which is
actually the easiest pitch

for the next, like,
thousand feet of climbing.

And it hopefully it won't take
us too many tries tonight.

because we want it to still be a rest day.

♪ Moonlight mission ♪

♪ Shotgun in my hand ♪

♪ Tomorrow comes disaster for your man ♪

♪ I told Virginia go run and hide ♪

♪ Might be the last time
see your man alive ♪

- [Kevin] Come on!

- Dang it.
- Ouch.

- Day five.

We're about halfway up the route now.

- We're just getting
to the hardest pitches.

- This is the crux.

This is the real meat of the route.

Not that it hasn't been
hard to get up to here but,

now we got our battle
really cut out for us.

And we have a storm looming
so a little nervous.

All right.

- Pitch 12 is the hardest pitch so far.

Tommy and I both fell I don't
even know how many times

at the bottom crux.

Good Tommy, come on.

Yes.

Finally, Tommy broke through.

Nice, man!

And all that guarded him from sending it

was this slab traverse.

Come on, Tommy.

Yeah.

Yeah!

- Ahoo!

I am so freakin' maxed!

Dude, that is an intense one.

You got it though, man.

- Thanks.

- Ugh!

- Checkin' the weather.

The storm's lookin' bad.

I had a friend do a post
on a climber's forum

to see if anyone had direct experience

sitting out a storm, specifically
if there was a danger

being hit by ice fall.

Now there's over 90 responses.

"Come on down and get baked, guys."

"I'll buy you a pepperoni pizza."

"Them dudes is toast."

Someone literally wrote, "Yer gonna die!"

with about 20 exclamation points.

Thanks a lot.

Here's what I'm thinking right now.

Just put off the decision
and just make it happen

until we really have to come down.

(grunting)

- [Tommy] Pitch 13, 14, and
are the biggest question marks.

If we can do those pitches,

we'll basically have it in the bag.

- Yes, come on!

Come on!

Come on!

(grunting)

(grunting)

Nice.

- Oh, man.

It's really hard.

I need stronger thumbs.

(light guitar music)

- [Kevin] Starting right
now, snow accumulations

of two to four feet are possible.

South winds 30 to 50 miles an hour,

with gusts to 85 miles an hour on Sunday.

- Yee-hoo!

Come on, Kevin!

Yeah, man.

You got it.

(screaming)

Come on, come on.

- I mean, as heart-breaking
as it is to bail at this point

I'm feeling like, we're not
really that close to sending.

It's been a rad, rad fight.

And a rad adventure.

And if we knew that we were
gonna be able to do this,

it would maybe be worth trying to sit out

a crazy winter storm up here.

But, I mean 13 is
brutally hard and I mean,

while I was climbing on
13, I was sort of coming

to that realization
that I'm not good enough

to do this thing right now.

We're gonna, we're gonna wrap.

- [Kevin] We're gonna call it a season.

- [Tommy] I just need to get
stronger, I need to get better.

I need to work on it more.

It's just a monumental project.

The only way that you ever do

these kind of routes,

is if you do it for the experience

rather than for the final outcome, really.

I mean, the final outcome
is sweet, no doubt,

but if that was the only
reward, it wouldn't be enough.

For the amount of work you put
into 'em, you gotta love it.

You gotta love what you're doing.

And, you know, I do.

This has been super rad.

- [Kevin] I just know
that we're gonna do it.

- [Tommy] He's confident.

- [Kevin] We're definitely
going to do this thing.

- [Tommy] Yeah.

- [Kevin] It's just a matter of,

what season it comes together.

(wind blowing)

- My name's Ashima and I'm nine years old.

(upbeat music)

I'm in fourth grade and
I live in New York City.

My parents moved here from
Japan before I was born.

My dad's name's Poppo and he's a dancer.

It's called like butoh dancing
and it's pretty intense.

(speaking in foreign language)

- She really loves climbing.

All she wants to do, climb,
climb, climb every day.

- When I was six years old,

I was sliding down this
big rock in Central Park.

When I came down, I saw
people rock climbing.

I just thought it was
the coolest thing ever.

Now I've been climbing
for about three years.

I love bouldering and I also
love to do competitions.

(speaking in foreign language)

- Hey, Obe.

- Hey, what's up, Ashima?

How are ya?

I think this year, the name
of the game this year for 2011

is to get you off your feet,
get you flying a little bit,

a little more momentum,
a little more flow.

- Obe was a professional
climber for years.

He used to win a lot of competitions

and I've seen him in a lot of videos.

When I found out that Obe
was gonna be my coach,

I was really excited.

- I've been coaching kids
for several years now,

and there's a lot of amazing
young athletes out there.

But I've never seen
anybody with the talent

that she has at such a young age.

(electronic music)

Come on, girl.

Yeah!

- [Ashima] I love the feeling

of trying something that's really hard.

- [Obe] Come on, Ashima!

I usually do really well on
problems that have like crimps.

- Come on.

She's definitely capable of holding on

to the smallest holds forever.

Her hands are about this size.

- My hands are like really tiny,

so it's really hard to grab
big pinches and slopers.

- [Obe] Come on, Ashima!

Come on, Ashima!

- I have a hard time doing long reaches

because I'm only 4'2.

- She's very tiny.

She says she's 4'2, but I
think she's not even 4 foot.

- Obe's always making me
work on my weaknesses.

- There's a ton of
talented kids out there,

and in order to keep up with the talent,

Ashima needs to work hard
and perfect her craft.

Come on, Ashima.

Yeah!

- This youth climbing
movement is just exploding

across the United States
Because there are so many gyms

and so many kids that are now

getting introduced to climbing.

The best coaches today are the ones

that have experiences from
climbing at a high level

and competing themselves.

And they're the ones that
are bringing the level

of climbing up for these kids.

- Serious coaching is a
pretty new thing in climbing.

It's something that I
would have never thought

that I would end up doing at
all, but I love it though.

If you woulda asked me 10 years ago

that I would be a coach,
and working with children,

and teaching them how to climb,

I would be like hell no, you know?

But then again, 10 years ago
I was kind of in my prime.

- [Announcer] Representing New York,

Puerto Rico, Obe Carrion!

(cheering)

- When Obe came onto the scene,

he really kind of shook things up.

(cheering)

You know, he really had so much drive

to make his mark in bouldering

and was climbing really hard.

(man shouting)

Woo!

- Yeah!

You went down!

Woo!

- Climbing with Obe is
just like, definitely kind

of a roller coaster, you know?

- Come on, Obe, what the?

Try it, hold it, pinch it!

Obe!

Hold don't you let go.

Don't you let go.

Don't you let go!

(screaming)

Damn, let's get out of here.

I didn't have no more energy.

I couldn't be like,

- He did put a lot of
pressure on himself I think,

for him climbing,

it wasn't just a hobby or something.

He took it seriously, you know?

It was like his exit.

♪ Real life right in front of your eyes ♪

♪ Real life right in front of your eyes ♪

- Yeah!

What's up, nigga?

- [Obe] We're in Allentown, PA.

Neighborhood is kind of harsh.

A lot of drugs, a lot of violence,

a lot of hustling,

a lot of street life.

- We didn't live an easy life, you know?

I can't tell you that it
was like the perfect family

or any of those things.

There was a lot of stuff
going on in our background.

- This is the house that I grew up in.

Had the cops raid this house

looking for stolen money and drugs.

I quit high school.

The odds were against me, for sure.

When I was 13, a climbing gym opened up

two blocks away from my house.

Yeah, I remember the day I walked in there

and I'm like looking, I'm like

"Holy, this sh, yo,

"This ish easy.

"I can do that."

The owner hooked me up with climbing shoes

and let me work it off.

And I was just like
immediately hooked, you know?

It's kind of funny.

I'd be like, "Yo, mom,

"I'm gonna be a
professional rock climber!"

- Oh my God.

How's he gonna make a living out of this?

This is like a joke?

- Freakin' rock climbing.

In 1998, I went down to Hueco

to try to make it as a pro climber.

It definitely was like a whirlwind.

Leave New York, meet Chris,

climb my hardest climbs, get sponsors.

The next thing I knew I was
flying all over the world.

doing photo shoots, making movies,

I couldn't believe it was happening.

It was the first in my life
that I was becoming a success.

- Obe was a big character
and a big personality.

(laughing)

Obe played a big role in the
modern bouldering movement.

It was a very exciting time.

Bouldering was blowing up.

It was like a tidal wave

and I was right dab in the middle of it.

After a bunch of years of that,
I just kind of fizzled out.

I got kind of tired of it.

It became more work than pleasure.

It wasn't giving back to me
what I felt like I put into it.

So I stopped climbing.

I moved back to my mother's
house, was a bartender.

I was depressed, drinking.

- It's one of those dark times for Obe.

Coming back, not doing what he loved,

kind of feeling like a failure again.

- I was at rock bottom.

And I realized that I needed rock climbing

to kind of save me again.

It was a part of me, like
an organ like a heart,

like a lung, like a liver,
like I needed it to live.

- [Man] Come on, Obes, nice.

Woo!

Yeah Obe!

- So I got the heck out of Allentown,

I moved to New York again,

and I got a job at a climbing gym.

I started coaching the youth team

and working with a bunch of kids

and come to find out
that I really enjoy it.

When I was younger, my whole
mentality was like a fight.

It was a fight to be one
of the dopest climbers.

And now the fight is not about me anymore,

the fight is about me preparing my kids

to be the best that they can be

and whooping other kids' ass.

- It was really interesting to see

the Bouldering Nationals this year.

(cheering)

The kids really go for it.

To see kids doing powerful
moves is really impressive.

- I've been working with Obe on big moves

because last year there
were a lot of big moves

and, like, really slopey holds.

- There are very talented
kids in her age group.

And one in particular is Brooke Raboutou.

Amazing bloodline when it
comes to rock climbing.

Ashima and Brooke,

they are both light-years
away from the other kids.

The competition is going to be tough.

(upbeat music)

(crowd cheering)

Doing well in comps, it's all mental.

You need to relax and
execute what you need to do.

Come on, Ashima, come on.

When I was competing,

I wasn't that good at
controlling my emotions.

Even now, I get nervous
when I watch her climb.

But Ashima's stone faced,
she's completely focused.

She is in the game for one
thing, and that's to win.

You see this young girl

and you say to yourself, "She has it."

It's weird.

A nine-year-old shouldn't have it.

It's absolutely 100% weird.

When she's in her element
and when she's ready

to climb and focus,

she is a veteran that's
been climbing 20 years.

But she's nine.

Come on, go get it!

Yeah!

- [Announcer] Ashima Shiraishi.

- I think the future of
competition climbing is bright

and we may even see Brooke and Ashima

in the 2020 Olympics.

- Watching my kids do well,
it's, super emotional for me.

I'm not climbing, but I'm
contributing for years and years.

- It's great to see these
kids perform so well

on artificial walls,
but it'll be even better

to see what they can do on real rock.

Hueco has the highest concentration

of hard boulder problems in this country.

- Hueco is the place that opened my eyes

to hardcore bouldering.

It's still the same testing ground.

It really is like, for me,

the best bouldering
area I've ever been to.

- I spent the last five winters
here, and it never gets old.

The climbs at Hueco
Tanks are steep, dynamic,

gymnastic, it's made for climbing.

Everywhere you look,

you see something you want to climb on.

- Hueco is where I went to prove myself.

With Ashima, I just really want her

to have the same experience that I had.

It's the rite of passage.

- I normally never get to climb outdoors.

I'm really excited to be here.

It's just like paradise.

(electronic music)

- Come on, come on.

Come on, girl!

Come on.

Yeah!

Nice!

- Nice Ashima, awesome!
- Yeah!

- Out here, I just feel really free.

Just hiking around the rocks
is really fun to explore.

There's a lot of Indian history

and it's really cool how
they wrote on the rock

a really long ago.

- Scholars maintain the
true meaning of the mask

was lost hundreds of years ago.

Could be looking at it upside down, too.

- The rock here is so cool.

It's not like the gym at all.

It's really exciting that
I can climb on things

that that were put up by
Fred Nicole and Chris Sharma.

There's just like so
many good climbers here.

And it's like really awesome meeting them

and even climbing with them.

- This is her chance to
see how she measures up

to some of the best
climbers in the country.

(laughing)

- Climbing with Ashima is inspiring.

She's strong.

I've watched her climb
and I've climbed with her.

She does moves, she does
lock-offs, it's impressive.

- [Man] Come on.

Come on.

Come on.

Fight, come on.

Get it good.

- Come on.

- [Obe] Come on, get it good.

Yeah!

- Nice!
- Diesel!

- A nine-year-old to like
walk up a V11 in 20 minutes,

you don't see that every day, you know?

- There's a lot of problems
that she just gets shut down on

because she just cannot make the reach.

But on a lot of problems,

she's coming up with her
own original sequences.

She's grabbing and holding onto footholds

and using things that people wouldn't use.

Her climbing IQ is off the charts.

She's able to see sometimes

some stuff that I can't even see.

She takes climbing seriously.

Come on, girl.

She has the drive, she has
what it takes to be great.

Come on.

Coem on, tight.

That was close.

But she still is a nine year old girl.

And when she falls, she cries.

I scream, I get pissed,

I get angry, I curse.

We all handle it differently.

The trick is to learn
how to take that emotion

and focus it and use it
as a source of strength.

Come on Ashima.

Come on!

Tight, tight!

Tight, tight!

Come on tight, tight.

Yeah!

That's a girl right there, come on!

If she's continuing to be
psyched on rock climbing,

it's gonna be lights out.

Yeah girl!

There's no telling what she could do

and where she could take this sport.

That's what I'm looking forward

to seeing and hopefully being a part of.

Any problems in the guide book

that you think you might want to get on?

- [Ashima] I think, um, Martini Roof.

- Martini Roof?
- Yeah.

- The right one.
- Yeah.

- That would be cool.

That would be really cool.

That'd be super cool.

- Martini Roof is the classic Hueco V12.

All the way to this one.

And then you can get good feet

and come into that is undercling.

The crux is a huge move
to a big sloping Hueco.

There's no way Ashima's gonna to be able

to make that reach,

so she's gonna have to
figure out her own way.

Come on Ashima.

- I figured out this beta

that I was going to
hold this little pinch.

There was actually like
no chalk on it at all,

but I thought that it would
be pretty good for me.

- [Obe] Come on.

You want this, you want to do this.

All right, we're getting there.

Nice and tight, everything you have.

Everything.

Everything.
- Go get it.

- Yeah, that's the one!

That's the one.

Left foot, look at your target.

Come on!

(laughing)

Uh huh, all the moves done.

- Jesus.

Are you kidding me?

- [Obe] You're psyched, right?

You're pretty psyched.

This is what psyched is called.

This is how psyched feels.

- [Woman] Well done, that was awesome.

- When you're fresh, you'll come back

and try the whole thing.

- Last time, I got all the moves,

but just can't stick it together,

so hopefully I will do it this time.

- Right Martini,it's the biggest test

in her life as a climber.

She's definitely venturing in territory

that she has never touched.

Learning how to deal with
piecing everything together

and executing and getting
the mental focus together

with the physical.

It's kind of stressful
and draining for an adult,

let alone a nine-year-old.

Come on Ashima, everything, come on.

Come on.

Come on, Ashima.

Come on, Ashima.

Come on, Ashima, come on.

Come on.

Yeah, come on.

Come on.

Come on, get it good.

Get it good.

Put your foot inside.

Yes.

Breathe, breathe.

- [Man] You got this.

- [Obe] Come on, fight.

Come on fight.

Fight, come on.

Get it good.

Come on, get it good.

Come on, Ashima.

Right foot, left foot in the new spot.

Right foot, left foot in the new spot.

Come on, go.

Come on.

- [Man] Good job.

- 99% of bouldering is failure.

My job is to guide Ashima through that.

(sobbing)

You climbed it so well.

I'm proud of you.

I'm super proud of you.

It's not the first, this
is going to happen a lot.

You just got to kind of get tough skin.

In my years of climbing,

I've seen a lot of young talent burn out.

because of the pressure getting to them,

and it's no longer fun.

I know what that feels like,
to have the pressure get you.

That's why I quit, that's why I burnt out,

and I don't want to have
that happen to Ashima.

(chill electronic music)

It's taken me a long time to realize

that climbing is this incredible gift.

I just needed to relax and enjoy it.

and that's something that I've, sadly

didn't learn to do until it was too late.

And this is what I'm really
trying to share with Ashima,

is that she needs to want it for herself,

and she needs to enjoy it for herself.

Breathe, you got this.

Relax.

Relax.

Come on.

Come on Ashima, relax.

Get it good, girl,

come on, get it good.

Yes, come on!

Come on Ashima, come on.

Get it good, girl.

Come on, Ashima, come on.

Come on Ashima, come on.

Come on, girl, fight, fight!

There you go!

Yeah, that's awesome!

♪ To be everywhere ♪

- When I see her do these
things, it's an amazing feeling.

(people cheering)

It's kind of like all the hard work

and all the emotion and all the fighting,

the laughing and tears.

It's all been worth it.

(speaking in foreign language)

At the same time,
watching Ashima rip it up

gets me a little psyched
to see if the old man

can still throw down a little bit.

Being back here 13 years
later, a lot has changed.

I'm a coach now, I'm
not a punk kid anymore.

Couple pounds overweight.

- [Man] Nice.

Come on!

- Come on, come on.

Come on!

- But it's still climbing.

It's still my life.

Oh my God, I just did that.

Oh my God, I just did it.

Oh my God, I just did it.

- Obe!
- Nice!

- [Obe] And I still love it.

(wind blowing)

(sighing)

- [Woman] It is 6:26 stop watch.

- [Man] 10, nine, eight, seven, six,

(speaking in foreign language)

- [Man] Five, four,

(men speaking in foreign language)

- [Man] And go.

(cheering)
(rock music)

- [Narrator] In Yosemite
Valley, the race is on.

- [Man] One of the greatest
challenges in modern climbing

is the speed record on The Nose.

- [Narrator] Up a 3,000 foot
wall in under three hours.

- It is the most badass
competition there is.

- [Narrator] The Nose route of El Capitan

has become a speedway for the
masters of Yosemite granite.

- Oh, it's such an Olympic marathon,

measuring some of the greatest
climbers against each other.

- Yosemite climbing has always
been about getting inspired

by what other people are doing,

and try to take it to that next level.

- I'm swinging!

You got it.

- The goal of speed climbing is to get

from the base of the route to the top

as quickly as you can.

Anything goes.

Pulling on gear, stepping on somebody.

The watch stops when the
second guy tags that tree.

- [Man] Now the records at a point

where to push it further,
it's quite dangerous.

- I can show you 10 places on
the wall where you can die.

- No gear, don't fall.

- It's coming close to a certain limit.

- Over half a mile of vertical rock.

Now the speed record's
two hours and 37 minutes.

What's next?

- I think this record will
last for a good long time.

- I think it is possible
to break the record

by a large amount.

- [Man] Dean Potter and Hans Florine.

- [Man] You want it, Hansy?

- [Man] After all these years,

still battling it out on The Nose.

- As much as people want to
say they're not competitive,

it's a bunch of shit.

- Racing with Hans, it disgusts me.

- [Man] You guys think Hans

is going to be psyched to come back?

- I don't give a fuck about Hans.

Want me to break your camera, dude?

- [Hans] Yeah, if you can
have the fastest record

on the best route in the universe,

you got to do that, you know?

- The Nose of El Cap.

The proudest line up the best
piece of rock I've ever seen.

- That perfect line that just sweeps down

from the sky to the forest.

- The Nose is just the
thing you have to climb.

- [Narrator] Over half a century ago,

The Nose was first
climbed by Warren Harding

in a colossal siege
that lasted nine months.

Two years later, Royal
Robbins climbed the same route

in only six days.

Then, in 1975, a team led by Jim Bridwell

left the bivouac year behind

and scaled the entire Nose
route in a single day.

But the race for The Nose
really found its stride

in the Lycra-clad '90s,

when Hans Florine got in on the game.

- I'm Hans Florine.

I'm known for having the speed record

on The Nose of El Capitan.

- Hans came out as an All
American pole vaulter.

He has a real competitive
psyche, you know?

Hans was really pursuing the
speed climbing competitions.

Comes up to me, he's like,

"Do you want to go break the
record on The Nose with me?"

And I'm like "Yeah, sure."

"You say that you're the
fastest climber in the world,

"let's go do it, you know,
let's see you back it up."

I wasn't ready for Hans' entourage

that he brought with him.

- How are you guys feeling this morning?

- We are feeling good, we are feeling bad,

we are feeling fast.

- Real fast.

- And we pulled off an 8:11 time

without really trying that hard even.

- [Narrator] Over the next
year, Hans cued up a string

of Yosemite Hardmen to help him bring

The Nose record down, including
the legendary Peter Croft.

- For me, it was like,

"If I can do that fast,

"then I've got the whole afternoon free

"to do something else,"

whereas for Hans, the
record was everything.

- [Man] Peter and Hans set
the exceptionally proud time

of of four hours and 22 minutes.

It stood for over a decade,

until Dean Potter entered the scene.

- You know, when I first
came to the Valley,

as with most young climbers,
I just wanted to prove myself.

Climbing these walls as
fast as humanly possible

was the way I saw that I could do that.

- With Dean up there,
something was happening

that I wasn't a part of, and
I wanted to be a part of it.

Me and Timmy O'Neill, we
did a few climbs together,

all of a sudden, we were
like, "Let's go for The Nose."

- [Narrator] The Potter-O'Neill
team raced up The Nose

and took it under four hours,

toppling Hans' decade-long reign.

- I was itchy, and I thought it'd be fun

to try to break their record back.

- 10 years it took for
somebody to break that record,

and in less than 10 days, Hans
comes and breaks it again.

The guy was merciless.

- Hans thrived on competition.

- [Tommy] So then Dean and
I went "Okay, cool, it's on.

"We'll answer back."

So then we went back,

- Like two days after that,

Dean's back up there with Timmy
smashing the record again.

with their three hours
and twenty-four minutes.

Pretty like slap, slap,

"Look, we can beat you
guys by 30 minutes."

It was pretty cool.

- And Hans is just like,
"No, I'm taking it back."

Dean and Hans, they bring out

this weird competitive side in each other.

- But I remember Dean saying, you know,

he was competitive with Hans,

but he didn't want to be competitive,

and, you know, I mean, it's just,

everybody has those feelings, I guess.

- The competition of speed climbing

hasn't made me feel good.

I love the action of speed climbing,

but then with trying
to beat somebody else,

that's not what I do.

- There's a perception by people out there

that there was friction
between me and Dean,

of which, you know, there was.

- [Narrator] You take an
already tense situation,

speed climbing, and then you
add the focus of the media.

- It's unbelievable, Hans.

Welcome to conversations,
You've got to be kidding me.

- [Narrator] And it just becomes too much.

- With Hans, it was like this
little dog humping my leg,

and I hated the fact that it brought out

the little dog in me.

- [Tommy] Dean comes from a background

of climbing very soulfully.

- Competition like that,

I haven't found a healthy place for it.

I think Hans has.

- Yeah, competition, I
believe, is super healthy.

As much as people are like
climbers aren't competitive,

they're competing with the
rock or with themselves.

It's a bunch of shit, you know?

- You know, it is the way humans are

that we want to one up each other,

we want to stand on top or be number one.

but I started climbing to
remove myself from that.

At a certain point, I just pulled back

I was like "Nope, speed
climbing's not for me."

- [Narrator] Put off by the
bad vibes on El Capitan,

Potter relinquished The Nose
record to his one-time rival.

- [Man] Once Dean dropped out,

Hans totally owned that record.

He was Mr. Nose.

- I think it's going to be really hard

for someone to go faster than us.

- Hans posted this time
that no one touched

for a really long time.

Until the Huber brothers got involved.

(electronic music)

- [Hans] No way, it's the Hubers,

two of the most famous
climbers in the entire world.

- [Narrator] In 2007, The
Nose race was shaken up

by German climbing stars
Alex and Thomas Huber.

- First, we thought speed
climbing is a stupid thing,

or it's American thing.

I don't want to say American
and it's the same like stupid,

but it's,we don't like it.

- But, we found out it's real
sport, and we like sports,

and of course, we are ambitious
and we want to do this.

- Well, the Huber brothers came

with one of the larger film crews

that's ever been in Yosemite.

They brought a whole new approach,

which is really working out
every move for weeks at a time.

- [Thomas] We trained
really hard on The Nose.

- [Chris] They were
putting in some fast times,

getting closer to the record.

- I was on the wall the
day the Huber brothers

were on schedule to bust the
record by like 18 minutes.

- We just wanted to make
the first real speedy go,

stop!

and Thomas took a whipper
and landed on the ledge.

- These are two of the
best climbers in the world,

taking whippers, getting hurt

trying to break this
record and that shows you

just how hard it is.

- Speed climbing The Nose

is one of the most dangerous things

that you can do as a climber.

- [Tommy] There's always a
lot of slack in the rope.

If you do fall, it's going to be big.

- The potential for disaster is so huge,

and we talk about it amongst ourselves.

Is one of these guys is
going to get snuffed out

one of these times?

(screaming)

(speaking in foreign language)

- And that's why it took us two years

to actually do the record.

- Three seasons.

- Three seasons.

- Woohoo!

(cheering)

- [Chris] The Hubers posted
a time that everyone thought,

"Alright, well now it's
not going to get done

"any faster than that."

- And we can make it five minutes faster,

But it's not worth it.

because it's super
dangerous and we are happy

to survived our adventure.

- [Photographer] Yeah.

(camera clicking)

- [Narrator] But no
record is safe for long

from the insatiable, Hans Florine

who quickly recruited Japanese
rope gun Yuji Hirayama.

(hooting)

- [Dean] By far the strongest guy

that's ever speed climbed
The Nose is Yuji Hirayama.

- I'm like, "Wow, with Yuji,
I'm going to nail that record."

If you want to ask if
it's personal with me,

I've held the record on The Nose longer

than anyone else and so yeah,
I'd like to have that record.

- Hans reclaims his title
as King of The Nose.

Two hours and 37 minutes
is blisteringly fast.

And then that's how the record stands.

Or stood until Dean and I teamed up.

- Over the last 10 years,

I broke away from competitive climbing,

but my good friend Sean Leary

would always bring up wanting
to break The Nose record.

- Over the years, all
these amazing climbers

have raced up The Nose, setting standards.

I guess I wanted to see
how I could hold up.

I just basically went up
and started camping out

at Dean's house and annoying
the fuck out of him.

- That's not happening.

- I think he's always,
in the back of his mind,

wanted to take The Nose record back.

Those sort of motivations you can't deny.

- Now I am 39 years old, and I
realize the clock is ticking.

I want to, you know,
mostly just prove to myself

that I still got it.

Now, the record's at a
point, at least for us,

where to push it further,
it's quite dangerous.

I can't sleep the night before.

- I meet up with Dean
and it's just kind of

this crazy, nervous, intense energy.

You can see The Nose
just above you, you know,

and suddenly it appears
out of the darkness

and you're like, "Holy shit,

"we're going to climb up there."

(tense music)

We basically had done a
rehearsal in our minds

of the entire route.

- [Dean] Our rack is ridiculously small.

We don't even take anything
to eat or anything to drink.

- [Woman] It is 6:26, stopwatch.

- Before I go for it, I feel
like I'm going to vomit.

Ten, nine, You're going to be fighting

for your life up there.

Three, two, one, go.

Nice and safe, nice and safe.

When we get on the rock,
we push each other.

Looking good, looking good.

- When you want to be real fast,

we do what we call simulclimbing.

Both people are moving at the same time.

It's super hardcore, because
when the bottom guy falls,

he pulls the top guy off.

- If you can do it, go for it.

What we're doing isn't like the way

you want to teach rock climbing.

- And then it's Dean's turn,

and he's chainsawing
his way up the Stovelegs

just like,

- [Dean] I'm trying to gun
it as fast as possible,

but also super nervous at that point.

I know if Sean falls,
I'll take a death fall.

There you go.

- [Sean] I'm panting, trying to keep up,

fighting the urge just to yak.

- [Dean] Half hour into it,
you're incredibly tired,

being like "I don't know
if I'm going to be able

"to maintain this for the next pitch."

But you've got 20 pitches above you.

(tense music)

Do it.

At the Boot, our strategy
is that I run out

the entire brack, leaving no protection.

I get up there, and now
there's just a clean rope

for Sean to swing over.

We're trying to take it super tight.

At that point, there's
not even time to put Sean

on belay, I just hold
the rope with my hands

and hope he doesn't bounce too hard.

- Got it?
- Got it.

I have Sean, swings across
for like over a hundred feet.

- Hold it!

Fuck!
- Go!

Gear!

We're faster!

- [Sean] What?

- We're going good,
we're faster than before.

We're an hour, two.

We're good.

- And it's my turn to lead,

and then I've go to
summon the energy again

to be like punching it.

- [Dean] Sean, at that
point, runs it out 200 feet.

Then Sean is going through the Great Roof.

- Starting to get tired,
really starting to feel it.

and then we have the most technical part

of the climb to go.

I just want to keep a steady pace.

Everything is going to
have to go perfectly.

Fetch!

Any little thing's going to slow you down.

(rock music)

(chill music)

(clanking)

- One second, Sean.

It was just like the
most beginner move ever,

jamming the jumar against the knot.

Jumar's stuck.

Hold on, I'm trying.

- [Sean] The speed game, right?

It's like, when it gets to that level,

just some little drama.

- Sorry.

- [Sean] Dean's jumar
jamming into the knot,

some little thing happening can, like,

make you not even close to the record.

- Fuck!

Sorry, Sean, the jumar's stuck.

- All right, just take your time.

We'll make up for it.

And then I saw him biting
at it with his teeth,

and I was like "Oh no, this isn't good."

I mean, we were so close,
we're so on the edge,

and that's part of the game.

- Fuck.

And I thought that we didn't
have the record anymore.

I'm getting it.

I'm sorry.

At that point, we both knew
that we had to pick it up

and go for it.

There you go.

- You know, I had a nice little break

which probably helped,

and then we were able to
keep going after that.

- I go as fast as I can
up the pancake flake

with this huge loop of rope.

Far above, Sean's on
like 5.11 plus climbing.

I'm cruising through 5.10 plus climbing.

You know, there's between
60 and 80 feet of rope

dangling below me.

and it's like a guaranteed
horrendous fall for him

if he blows it.

- [Sean] You're up there

and you're just getting super pumped,

but you can't let go cause
you don't have any gear in.

- [Dean] Know that if he
stays relaxed, he won't fall.

- [Sean] Once we get up
to the upper corners,

through the last like 10
pitches, we're just giving it.

- [Dean] At that point, 25
pitches in, having sprinted,

you know, arms are cramping.

This hand jam, that foot, don't slip.

- [Sean] You just need to
be able to punch out 5.11

after you've been climbing
like thousands of feet.

- Sean!

Get me on belay, Sean.

It's real here.

Release.

Good job.

You're on, bro.

- [Sean] You're just redlining it.

Your lungs are gonna explode.

- Come on.

- [Sean] And then you find
out you're a couple minutes

from breaking the record
and you have to try harder.

- No gear, don't fall.

When you're heading for the tree,

it's just like you're so tired.

It feels like racing at
maximum speed, but in reality,

we're kind of crawling over the top.

Thirty-six!

- (grunting) Mother fucker!

Done!

Done!

(panting)

Fuckin'.

Oh, had to have been close.

- [Cameraman] How'd you guys do?

- Just barely squeaked it.

It's by like 20 seconds, fucker.

- [Narrator] New nose record.

- How'd we do, Dean?
- We got it.

- We got to the top and
we're like, wow, holy crap.

We just broke the record.

- You got it?
- By like 20 seconds.

- By 20 seconds.

We broke the fucking record.
- Yeah.

- Yeah dude, fuck yeah!

The fastest is the fastest,
even if it is 20 seconds.

- It is pretty sweet.

Owning the speed record

on the most famous big
wall route in the world.

I don't have that right now.

- I'm sure Hans has been training

since the second he heard
that the record got broken.

- Dad are you ever going
to break that record again?

- You want me to?

- [Kids] Yeah!

- I feel I have a lot to lose

if I don't come home from a speed record.

I can't go up there and blow it.

But I think I still got a
couple good runs left in me.

- [Dean] With just a
little strategy change,

I think it is possible to break the record

by a large amount.

- For sure, if they don't
take more than 20 seconds off,

I'm going after it.

(rock music)

(wind blowing)

(snapping)

(light guitar music)

- Slacklining: walking on
one-inch tubular webbing.

Slacklining started
years ago in Camp Four.

Climbers would take their rest days

just killing time and
practicing their balance.

- It's like a lifestyle sport.

You can just go slackline in your backyard

when you feel like it.

- Still a kind of
grassrootsy kind of thing,

but at the same time,
people are embracing it,

people are doing it.

- [Evan] Yeah, slacklining
wasn't really going off

until Andy Lewis got involved.

- Victory is mine.

My name is Andy Lewis.

I'm a professional
slackliner, or try to be.

- [Evan] A dude like Andy,
this crazy fool you know,

who picked up slacklining

and he didn't only just pick it up,

he ran with it, you know?

(rock music)

- I started slacklining in 2004.

And as soon as I could walk the line,

I wanted to know what
else I could do with this.

There wasn't really a path to follow,

like tricks that were already defined.

- [Man] Nice.

- We had no clue what we were doing.

I started thinking about
getting air and like,

getting tension in the line.

Then you come up with a trick.

- [Man] Yeah, nice.

- And then you try something new.

Okay, that hurt.

Now that we're trying to combo tricks,

it's kind of progressed to
doing multiple aerial tricks.

Like long extended combos
of difficult tricks.

And it starts getting pretty hardcore.

- You know, Andy is taking
these aerial maneuvers,

these back flips, front
flips to new levels.

Throwing twists and
rotations, different grabs.

Combinations that are
just, like, unheard of.

- There's a limitless
vast expanse of things

that can be done on a slackline
that have not been done.

(clapping)

I did this squirrel back flip,

you grab your feet behind your
back as you do a back flip,

but I landed it and the
clip like went viral.

I just happened to be the
first one to do the back flip.

- Yeah baby.
- Yeah.

- [Andy] Holy shit.

From there, it kind of went off.

- [Announcer] Let's
hear it for Andy Lewis!

- [Andy] There were
competitions, world records.

- [Announcer] Andy Lewis!

- [Man] The sport of slacklining

is starting to grow worldwide.

I think Andy has been a big part of that.

- Andy Lewis is the best person out there.

Tricklining, hands down in the world.

- I think he's the first
person that realized

he could live from this sport.

And this lifestyle.

He sort of realized, this
is going to go somewhere.

And if I do it hardcore
enough, then I'll be an icon.

- [Timmy] Andy and all of his little

young slacklining posse.

- [Man] Yeah, Faith.

- These guys have taken slacklining,

which is an obscure part
of an obscure sport, right?

Climbing.

- [Man] On the line.

- [Timmy] And they've modernized it.

- Yeah!

(laughing)

- [Andy] What's really driving
the sport of slacklining

is the community.

- The Desert Monkey Crew.

Yeah, there's good energy out here.

For sure.

- We all get together
from all over the country

and the world and we
show up in this one spot.

Feed off one another's energy

and kind of take
everything to a new level.

Pretty badass.

- Mostly what's going on around here

is a sort of dangerous
things, it seems like.

Highlining, base jumping, rock climbing.

- It's really all going
on right here, now.

- This is the Moab Monkey Den

and these are the slacklines.

- Well, Andy moved in with my son Canyon

who's 14, and myself.

And dog Bonnie.

One big happy family here in Moab now.

One, keep doing it, two.

One, two,

♪ Life for us! ♪

♪ It's a dirtbag life for us ♪

♪ Instead of renting apartments ♪

♪ we're sleeping in our tent ♪

♪ It's a dirtbag life for us ♪

♪ It's a dirtbag life for us ♪

(laughing)

- Andy's definitely has dials
turned up a couple notches

higher than everybody else's.

- He's the craziest desert monkey I know.

- I'm Andy Lewis and this
is "Terrible Bed Placement".

- He's continually
pushing his limitations.

Self-preservation's out the
window a little bit, you know?

- Andy does everything.

Cause not only can he trickline,

but he can also highline extremely well.

- [Andy] Highlining.

Your first step is
completely out of control.

That's it, man, come on.

You have to commit.

Woo-hoo!

- Highlining is so hard because primally,

we're suppose to avoid the abyss.

Well, when you're highlining,

you have to get over that primal fear

for the entire length of the line.

- Freakin' sick.
- It's freakin' scary.

- Evolution has taught you,

"This is wrong, you should not be here,

"what the hell are you doing?"

- Woo-hoo!

- [Andy] It's the biggest
rush you'll ever feel.

- [Tommy] Psychologically,
it's the most taxing thing

I've ever done.

- Damn it!

- Nothing compares to it.

- Highlining, for me, it's
just not scary anymore

because I'm confident in my abilities.

In the last year,

I've been inventing these
ways of spicing it up a bit.

That's great mental practice.

You put the leash around things

that you would not want to fall on.

It's tied around your
wrist and 25-feet long.

I've made the ankle leash
entitled to the ball and chain.

- It's like you take something

that's already incredibly dangerous

and you make it even more dangerous.

I don't know if, A,

I'm outdated and I'm not
aware of the cutting edge,

- [Andy] Yeah, guys!

- Or, B, I'm just smarter.

- [Man] Dumb experiment.

- [Tommy] Dude, he is so out there.

I mean, he's so crazy.

- [Andy] I have the
longest highline walk ever.

It's 340 feet long, 360 feet high.

- [Man] Well, he passed halfway.

Holy fuck, he's gonna fuckin' send it.

Ow!

- He's always looking at
everything in a way like,

"How can I do something no
one's ever done before?"

- I like tricklining.

And tricklining on the
highline is the next level.

(cranking)

Well, the highline back
flip has been a trick

that was previously
conceived as impossible

in the world of slacklining.

Doing a huge dynamic movement
and trying to come back

down on the line is soul
grippingly terrifying.

The more you're afraid,

the worse the backflip is going to be.

- [Man] Doing a backflip on a highline,

Nobody's even thinking
about that sort of stuff.

And here Andy is, stepping
up and actually trying it.

- [Man] Yeah Andy!

- [Man] He's willing to do
things he's not sure he can do.

He'll just test the system
and see what happens.

- When I leave the line,

I don't really know where my leash is.

so I look back, and
right as I see the line

I see 300 feet of exposure.

And then it just seems
impossible to land on it.

And when I stick it with my feet,

the line sinks two or three
feet, shakes left and right.

I have to get my feet on that?

It's really violent.

It's taking like eight or 10-foot whippers

or launching back like 10 feet.

I don't really know what my leash is doing

and that's the scary part.

- Highline tricks like Andy's back flips,

it's pretty amazing.

But right now, if you
really want to see Andy

in all his glory, you've
gotta see him up there

without a leash.

Free solo.

- The true challenge for
me is to do a highline

in between two desert
towers without a leash,

with full exposure, full consequence.

And full control needed.

The reason why free solo
is dangerous is because

if you do fall, like,

the heavier and shakier the line is,

the more you have the chance
to not catch the line.

Oh, my God.

- He constantly is free soloing now.

You have to have this
incredible conviction

to what you're doing.

(rock music)

There could be that moment
where you miss the line.

- [Man] You know, you're
laying it all out there.

One lapse in focus could
lead to your immediate death.

- I mean, I'm a highliner
and I still, you know,

some of the things he does
it's like, whoa, you know?

This is kind of not under control.

- For most people,

free solo is an extremely meditative thing

and it's like you're in the moment

and you just feel so concentrated.

And I feel like Andy just,
like, steps on it a few times,

he'll just go for it.

- I ask him many times about, you know,

about the death factor of it and he says,

you know, I just happen to be so confident

on a hundred foot line,

that I can get in the moment and do it.

- [Man] World record solo, huh?

- Oh yeah, sure.

Glad to be back.

- He's got quick reflexes
though, you know?

I mean, he's really good at video games.

- Save your own life.

- And I think that really translates

to a lot of things going on out here.

Catching the line when
you're free soloing.

Good skills.

- When I first saw Dean's free solo

Lost Arrow Spire I was like, "Oh, my God."

That's what made me want to slackline.

I've repeated Dean's free
solo of Lost Arrow Spire.

I walked there and back.

And then this year in
2010, I did it naked.

(kooky music)

Ever since I've been slacklining,

I've pretty much been doing it naked.

We gotta get naked and send.

Let's do this.

Everybody get naked and send.

Maybe it's because my parents are hippies.

Me and my friends always got naked.

That's just what we did, you know?

I was always into sports as a kid.

I kinda was hurting myself a lot,

so I switched to mountain unicycling.

Until I went down a hill
that was too hard for me,

I just ate shit.

It kind of moved me into the climbing.

A very controlled sport.

Ugh, my shoulder!

I dislocated my shoulder.

I couldn't climb.

That's when I moved to more slacklining.

- With Andy, it's never
boring, that's for sure.

He's fun, but I wouldn't
say the best role model.

- Andy's known to be a little
sketchy in the community.

So I started calling him Skandy.

Sketchy Andy.

- [Man] Sketchy Andy.

- [Man] We've got Andy right here.

Psycho boy Andy.

He's gonna be going on this
slackline and then jumping.

- Sometimes, you look at him
and you're like, "Really?

"Are you really gonna do that?"

- And I think a part of being
young is being immortal.

And having the sense that nothing

is going to happen to you.

- [Man] Was that sick or what?

Was that insane?

- Fuckin' sicko!

- [Man] What do you guys think of that?

- Who's next for the
gator off the slackline?

Not me!

- Andy's base jumping is
one of the sketchier things

that I've seen.

- When you're learning to base jump,

the protocol is you go
and do a hundred sky dives

and then you get expert
instruction from somebody

who truly understands base jumping.

Andy drove himself to the
bridge and threw himself off.

- Yeah!

- You don't really know
you're being dangerous

or that you're doing something wrong

until you do something
wrong and then you learn.

When I first saw Dean
base jump off the line,

he did it all gracefully.

Go and Throw, nice on heading,

and just flew to the parking lot.

And I was like, "I could do that."

When you do an exit with
a slack line, it wiggles.

It's really strange.

Right as I left the line, I
knew everything was wrong.

I just basically was flying

with hands and feet
straight at the ground.

- [Man] Oh, my God.

- Well, I guess, you know,

put one check on the learning curve.

- His base jumping ventures, dude, I mean,

- [Andy] Two, one, see ya!

- He did like an aerial on
his second base jump ever,

you know.

- [Man] That's the main concern

for me about him, you know, base jumping.

- [Andy] Fuck, oh shit, fuck.

- [Faith] He's had some
really scary moments.

- [Andy] I'm good!

- He's just so flip with the abyss.

- Andy loves to huck big.

So he doesn't do your
basic base jump starts.

He does running gainer wild Andy stuff.

- [Man] Cliffs in Moab
are only 300, 400 feet.

- [Man] Oh, my God.

- [Man] So there's not a
lot of to get out of it.

- Yeah, his friends worry about him.

You have to push your limits,

but also know that it's not
worth killing yourself over.

- If I did get a phone call
that something happened

while Andy was base jumping
would I be surprised?

No, I would not be surprised.

Because it's the kind of thing

that the odds are so
horribly stacked against you.

My talk to him the other night was,

"just mellow out the jump."

- [Andy] My concept of
base jumping was shattered

by this one base jump I made.

I just ended up pitching
at the worst time,

in the worst way.

And having it wrap around my chest.

- [Woman] Oh, fuck.

Dude, he just did a barrel roll.

- It happened to open on heading.

No big deal, but I also
could have just died.

And I think that was kind of
a come to Jesus moment for me.

(crackling)

Know that one slip could not only mean,

like, my death or my injury,

but how much it affects
the people around me

and that danger, that drama

surrounding the sport is, it's hard.

- [Man] And he knows.

He thinks about this every single day.

Continuing to be the best

and to push that margin and staying alive.

Such a fine line.

- [Man] I think that's a big part

of who he has become, you know?

Really trusting his instincts.

And, furthermore, training his instincts

to do things at a higher level.

- Yeah, buddy.

- He has a tremendous amount of talent.

But then he also has no fear.

So you put those two things together

and it's part insanity,

and part genius.

(laughing)

- Today, we're gonna rig
a 60-meter rope jump.

It's 200 feet of free fall
down a very thin canyon.

It's gonna be epic.

- Any time you go highlining with Andy,

there's some adventure will happen.

♪ Stack cliff ♪

♪ Runner off ♪

- Andy just inspires me to
do something rad everyday.

- [Man] Oh, yeah, baby!

- Rock on.

Two, one.

Yeah!

- Andy really is one of a kind.

I'd like to see Andy
stick around, you know?

And I have a feeling that
Andy is going to stick around.

- And the slack life will
always go on, hopefully.

I hope that I've helped create something

that will forever kind of
wind into the universe.

We'll see where it goes, I guess.

- Andy has this infectious energy.

And it's like he makes
you feel like you're crazy

if you don't jump off a cliff.

Andy, looks good?

You think I got it?

He got our whole film
crew to do the rope swing.

It was insane.

Right here?

Three, two, one!

- [Man] Yeah!

- Should I like tighten my shoelaces?

Woohoo!

♪ I came to run about ♪

♪ I must have been taken by surprise ♪

♪ I must have lost my head ♪

♪ It's big too ♪

(laughing)

- [Andy] Oh, that's fuckin' great.

(electronic rock music)

(tense music)

(zipping)

(sighing)

(electronic rock music)

- [Man] Getting out of the
valley, and up on El Cap

is like the ultimate sense of freedom.

(inspiring music)

- [Woman] El Cap is really inspiring.

It's beautiful.

It's hard climbing.

It starts to get really windy up there.

You want to make sure you're wearing stuff

that's not going to let the
wind just power through you.

- [Man] You just feel so
much more unencumbered.

and free to move.

- We're here in Boulder

at the Sender Films
Headquarters right now.

Just getting packed up.

We're getting ready to
shoot out in the desert

for the 2011 Reel Rock Tour.

(rock music)

Yeah when we're shooting

we're trusting our whole
operation to Sterling Rope.

They really help us feel safe

so we can get the shots that we need.

Helps make Reel Rock possible.

- [Obe] Come on, Ashima.

Come on, Ashima, come on!

- [Narrator] Evolv.

With the worlds stickiest rubber

for the world's sickest climbs.

(grunting)

Introducing the Shaman.

Designed and developed by Chris Sharma.

The evolution continues.

Goal Zero introduces the
Guide 10 Adventure Kit.

Portable solar power anywhere.

Charge handheld devices
directly from the sun

using the Nomad 7 solar pannel.

Or connect to the Guide 10 battery pack

to store power for later use.

Recharge cell phones, cameras,

and AA or AAA batteries day or night.

With the Guide 10 Adventure Kit,

you can take power anywhere.

(light music)

- [Man] I don't think you plan moments,

I think they just occur.

- [Man] You gather up that
courage inside of you like,

"let's do this!"

(energetic music)

(solemn)

- [Narrator] Climbing
Magazine and Urban Climber:

The leading voice of
the climbing community.

In print and online.

(dramatic music)

- For over a century
the American Alpine Club

has stood for alpine ideals.

And it's not just for old farts.

Well I just joined the
American Alpine Club

because I love climbing
and I love the community.

- I was lucky enough to go
on a trip to Mt. Proboscis

with two girlfriends

that was sponsored by AAC grants.

Whether you're old school or grade school

we all share that passion.

- It's not just for old farts.

(laughing)

- [Narrator] The winners of the Reel Rock

two minute film competition.

- Hello!

My name is Pavolov Sheckof.

I manage Pad Test Crash Facility.

Our ultimate goal is
that no pad go to market

without withstand total punishment.

(crashing)

It's important that will
of safety rack be tested.

(strumming)

Unlike the pad of the capitalist
pigs of North America,

this pad works for you 24/7.

Our pad must withstand whatever
environment we throw at it.

- I'm sick of you laying
around all the time!

(shouting)

- Testing process pushes every
pad to the breaking point.

The breaking point!

The breaking point.

Our pad is so manly, it
cannot even destroy itself.

This bit you know it
protect against any fall.

- [Narrator] For Dany Oruso the future

seems far from terrific.

- What is this shit place mom?

- [Narrator] Until he
discovers his own paradise,

and met the girl who
will change everything.

But that will only anger the wrong guys.

- Hey, come on!

- [Narrator] Rivalry
will raise between them.

His troubles were just about to begin.

- I hate this place!

- [Narrator] But one day.

- Take!

- [Narrator] A man will come and help.

- [Dany] Mr. Miyagi, I thought

you were just a maintenance man.

- The only way to stop
them, is to face them.

I will teach you real rock climbing.

- [Narrator] They will
come together as a team.

To take down the competition.

- All right so how do we start?

- With this!

Focus on your palm!

Hold it tight.

Remember the toothbrush.

Everything is rock climbing.

- [Narrator] In three weeks,
Dany will have to show them

that he is fucking strong.

- Like steel your hands must be.

(cracking)

Your focus need more focus.

Don't forget to breath, very important.

Connect to the energy around.

- [Narrator] Then this
man, he found the teacher

but also, a friend.

- I will destroy you!

- [Narrator] And now,
the one thing he can't do

is walk away.

- Be strong.

- Come on, Dany!

- Dany Oruso, the power of the climber.

The heart of a champion.

(buzzing)

(speaking in foreign language)

- [Ashima] That's me and my dad.

- Wow.

That does look just like your dad.

Do you guys got boxing gloves on?

- No. (laughing)

- So check this out Ashima,

I have some footage of
me when I was in Hueco

my first time.

In '98.

You can't make fun of me though.

Free Heuco.

(funky music)

♪ There's a boy where there should be ♪

(shouting)

(laughing)

- Let's go!

- Oh no!

I don't think I would do that.

- How much does Ashima love climbing?

- Ashima loves climbing so crazy!

And she climbs everyday, every time,

climbing, climbing, climbing!

(laughing)

- Every Sunday after I go climb,
I usually go to McDonalds.

- [Obe] What do you eat at McDonalds?

- A Happy Meal.

- [Obe] What'd you get?

- [Ashima] Kind of like a car.

- I think she likes the Barbie ones.

- No!

- It's kind of funny,

this is me like little
punk ass 13 years old

and I see a sign like "climb on",

like "What in the heck is that shit?"

"Like climb on?"

I knew I wanted to do it,

but I didn't know what
it was and I remember

I was watching this kid rappel down

and he had a chalk bag and I was like,

"Wow, he's coming down
here and he has the rope

"stuffed into this bag and he's just like

"holding onto the bag and,"

I just had no comprehension
of what it was.

I couldn't even, like I
had no idea how it worked.

Like I remember taking my first belay test

and I like failed it like three times.

I can't do it.

(hip hop music)

- My old girlfriend, Ellie,

and she sat in one while going pee

and all the cactus went up into her butt

and I had to get in there with a tweezer.

- Yes you did!

Yes you did!

- And right there in all the craziness,

I was in there and just pulling them out.

one by one, one by one.

- Oh my God.

- Don't let it happen to you.

- Gives you power and energy.
- Yup.

- [Woman] It will help.

- [Man] The secret.

- [Man] Obe's you gonna eat that?

I don't want to eat that.

- Here you go.
- You had it before?

- [Ashima] No, I have but,

- [Obe] You dont like it?

It's alright I could eat it.

It's good for the power.

You like the little fishies?

- What is happening?

- She's doing it!

She just cut her feet on the pinch.

- Do I have to say
something or just react?

- No, no, no, just like that.

Hand over the mouth like "Oh my God."

(laughing)

That was almost it.

Little less dramatic.

- This is so hard.

Here we have some rattlesnake breadsticks

with peppercorn eyes and pepperoni tails.

(laughing)

- Nice.

Come on, Ashima.

We got this.

♪ You can born it if you sing it ♪

♪ For the rest of your life ♪

- Stop.

Stop it.

- Come on, we're resting.

- No we're not.

- We're resting.

Come on we gotta climb.
- What?

Tomorrow.
- Why not?

- Martini Roof.

- Commercial 69 to headquarters.

1020 Sandmaster.

(chill music)

♪ Birds flying high know how I feel ♪

♪ Sun in the sky knew how I feel ♪

♪ Breeze down by how I feel ♪

♪ Birds flying high how I feel ♪

♪ Sun in the sky knew how I feel ♪

♪ Breeze get on by how I feel ♪

♪ It's a new dawn to a new day ♪

♪ It's a new dawn for me ♪

♪ It's a new dawn, it's a new day ♪

♪ It's a new dawn for me ♪

♪ It's a new dawn, it's a new day ♪

♪ It's a new dawn for me ♪

♪ It's a new dawn, it's a new day ♪

♪ It's a new dawn for me yeah ♪

♪ It's a new dawn, it's a new ♪

♪ It's a new dawn for me yeah ♪

♪ It's a new dawn, it's a new day ♪

♪ It's a new dawn for me yeah ♪

- [Obe] Nice.

Nice.

(funky bass music)

Good job.
- Well done.

- [Obe] Nice.

Awesome, Ashima.

Hold on tight, the winds blowing hard.

- Oh my, so scary.

I like the wind.

- You know it's funny, 10
years ago some guy wrote

about this in the internet.

And the caption underneath his photo is

"Only some idiot like Will
Gadd would come here."

- And you were like "Tim!"

- I called you, I was
like "I got a friend!"

You got the first call!

(panting) 8,000 meters!

We got nothing but yak
tails to eat for a week!

Ah, it's impossible conditions!

We can't go on!

Mallory Irvine's has
been chasing us for days!

It's terrible!

- [Tim] Just leave me here man, go on!

- Just leave me here!
- Go on without me!

- Just leave me!

Go for the summit!

Go, go!

- It's cool, I got the footage
man, I got the footage!

The world won't forget!

(gasping)

That looks good.

Excellent!

(laughing)

Hey mate good effort!

Give us the starfish!

That's so wild.

- Let's check it out, eh?

Does a bolt work?

- [Tim] That's an idea.

- The future of ice
climbing is in jeopardy.

- [Tim] I know.

(beeping)
(laughing)

At least it finds something.

- Yeah!

Those film dudes we had on this trip,

- [Tim] A little iffy.

- A little iffy man.

- Woops!

- [Man] Go on Josh, have it.

- Epic!

I would be wearing a
helmet, but I dropped it.

- [Cameraman] Little different

from shooting bouldering in Heuco, huh?

- Yeah.

(rumbling)

- [Cameraman] What was that?

- It's the dragon breathing.

Every half hour or so you get

this massive rumbling explosion
that is pretty unnerving.

- The thing that's freaking
me out a bit is the

(rumbling)

(chuckling) exactly.

- Can you imagine the force required

to make those noises coming out of there?

There's something going
on in there that is just,

you want no part in.

- So it's been a long day
of shooting out at the cave,

everyday we get back to the lodge,

first thing we do is make a scotch-sicle.

Will demanded that we bring a liter

of scotch per person on this trip,

otherwise he wouldn't work with us so,

we had a large duty free
bill and now you just,

drizzle scotch, it's the
best part of ice climbing.

And then go up to the lodge,
sit down at the computer,

download footage, put some pictures

of giant ice phalluses on
Facebook, call it a night.

- It was like bright lights,

big city at the base of the
Nose I'm like, "come on!"

- I mentioned to Steve that my parents

might be in Yosemite
that morning or that day.

Thanks mom!

- [Man] How are you guys
feeling this morning?

- We are feeling good, we are feeling bad,

we are feeling fast.

- Real fast.

- [Man] Have you climbed together?

- We've never climbed together, have we?

- Well, we'll learn.

We don't think that'll be a problem.

- He's heard about me though
so that's what matters.

- [Man] You mean, you're
going to climb this edifice

and have never climbed together before?

- Well, we figure it's a good start.

- They billed themselves as, what was it?

Like the blonde, ambition tour or

- We're feeling good, right?

We're feeling bad, yeah?

- And me coming from Canada it was like,

"what the hell is this all about?"

- We don't say that we're the best.

We're simply faster than the rest.

So if you're climbing on El Cap,

you better watch out because
you're gonna get lapped.

And if you're bored, we've got the cure.

It's called the Blond Ambition tour.

Muffed that a little bit.

- Yeah we did.

- It's pretty cool.
- Well I did.

- It's pretty damn cool.

It's stupid.

I know.

- We're going to shave our
chests before the climb

to optimize the pectoral
muscles in the pictures.

And they did.

They were literally in the
bathroom shaving their chests.

Thomas is shaving his chest and he's like,

"I know it's humiliating
but the sponsors like it."

You know.

- It's much better naked.

- Super cool.

(speaking in foreign language)

- Shaving his nipples
I'm like, "What is this?

"Why? What has this come to dude?"

And it's, you know, a great segue

right into Hollywood Hans dude.

- Hollywood Hans, we got his nickname

cause he was so brash, so
talkative, from the L.A. area,

It's been just so like, bright lights

that he got this moniker Hollywood on him.

He embraced it and liked it.

I'm Hollywood Hans!

- Glory!

Tag!

Beep!

We broke the record!

Hans broke it again?

Damn it!

- [Sean] I never should have pounded that

Gatorade tasting water bottle.

- [Dean] Oh, didn't I tell
you that was my urine bottle?

- All the sudden there are these people

weighing in on these ethical
debates about climbing.

I mean we're not talking
cloning humans here.

We're not talking, you
know, famine, or war,

or something with perhaps
value for humanity.

We're talking about climbing a rock fast.

Yeah.

See ya!

You know.

- They tend to roam the base of El Cap

because they know that climbers
leave lunch in their packs.

It's kind of cute though.

We have four of us on the
broken portal ledge right now

so we might overload it.

Hanging from a single bolt I might add.

- [Man] What?

- Good bolt though.

- [Man] What?

- [Kevin] Are we backed up?

- [Tommy] Yeah no we haven't,
yeah we're backed up.

And you're like,

"how are we ever going
to get out of here?"

You see the shot,

it's like crazy looking cause
there's straps everywhere.

This is totally organized for
wall style with four people.

- [Cameraman] Hey, Josh,

What does it mean when you get rained on

in perfectly blue skies?

- It means the aid climbers
above us are peeing

and we're catching a little
bit of it on our heads.

but it's funny, you kind of get used to it

after a little while.

- [Cameraman] Kind of like it?

- I wouldn't say like it,
but it's not as revolting

as certain other things
that go on up here.

- This pitch at least like, doesn't feel

like you're going to like zipper
peckers for the most part.

- [Cameraman] Zipper peckers.

I hate it when I zipper my pecker.

That's the worst, man.

Oops there's a little tip.

I don't want that.

I mean a big tip.

- [Tommy] Can you believe that
I was a foot model last week?

- [Cameraman] Wow man,
those are some pretty

dogs you got there.

- [Tommy] This is what
El Cap does to your feet.

After a decade.

Woah.

The pin holds.

Plus it could fall I like that "huah!"

- [Cameraman] Yeah that was nice.

- I was just ready for it to rip

and me to like, teabag Josh.

- [Josh] It would be
consistent with how the day

is going in general.

That's the only thing you
haven't done to me yet.

- Big wall photography is probably

the hardest discipline out there.

I mean those guys that do it,

man I just don't know
how they pull it off.

I mean I'm scared to death just thinking

about the climbing.

Together we spent 3 seasons
working on this climb.

And so it's all coming down to this point

and I wasn't at all nervous

until you made me just think of that.

(laughing)

(tense music)

Falling.

Oh dang, shoot.

That's not good.

The goal is to climb each pitch,

cleanly, and consecutively.

Okay, you can lower me.

- [Kevin] No worries man, I know

I'm going to do that at least once.

- If we fall, we'll come back down

and start that pitch over again.

You don't have to come
all the way to the ground

each time we fall.

It's a little more relaxed at times,

just takes a little bit
to get into the groove.

(light music)

That one's like 12C.

Kind of trying to chill out a little bit

and almost like recover.

- [Man] Wet huh?

- Little wet yeah, that
one's always a little wet.

Usually I don't work on
drying myself quite that much,

but when you're going for it
you kind of want to not slip.

Really want to not slip.

(tense music)

- Fuckin' joke.

(electronic music)

- [Tommy] We reach really high
off of this good one, right?

- [Kevin] Get your left hand
in the top go to the first one.

- [Tommy] Yeah.

- [Kevin] Bring your feet up and go again.

You go again your left foots

on that vertical holding thing.

- [Tommy] Okay.

Okay, climbing.

- [Kevin] Alright man, go get it.

Yeah that's it.

Pick the arms back there.

Come on.

Come on, finish it!

- Yeah!

Booyah!

Nice, man!

- Good job!
- Thanks, brother!

- Andy and Canyon are
totally like brothers.

It's total big brother.

Canyon loves Andy.

- Andy I did it!

- totally looks up to him.

And Andy loves Canyon.

♪ Bright for change in
a really bright time ♪

♪ Unspoken expectation ♪

- Andy builds tree nets.

He's like the master tree
netter possibly of the world.

Now we have the biggest
hammock in the state of Utah.

And it's still growing.

All thanks to Andy.

Probably about 20 people
can sleep in it now.

- It's hard to notice,
but I have a tree house.

- [Canyon] Come on, let's go, come on!

Come on girl.

- [Man] Do you think he's
a bad influence on you?

- Definitely not.

- [Man] What about his like,

he's kind of awkward like
in social situations?

- I like that.

- [Man] What about his really bad jokes?

- They're pretty funny.

- Really?
- That's what's up Pete.

- [Man] Has he brainwashed you?

- Hi, I'm Canyon Caine and
this is 200 meter rope swing.

Three, two, one,see you guys!

- Woo!
- Woah!

That is one cool customer.

(laughing)

- Rock on!

- [Man] How many times
have you done a rope jump?

- Never.

- [Man] How many times
have you jugged a line?

- Never.

Three,two,one, See you guys!

Yeah!

- Well, I rigged up my camera

so that it can accompany me

on what we're basically
calling a little POV mission.

Alright.

Three, two, one, See ya!

Woo!

- Like what could go,

what are the options
of what could go wrong?

I jump off, I don't jump far
enough and I hit my head.

What about if I go off
coursing and I hit the wall?

- [Man] You won't.

It's not going to happen.

- My harness comes undone?

- [Man] That's not going to happen either.

- Oh, the rope is like
fully trembling right now.

- [Man] It looks like you're trembling.

- I know.

The wind is kind of
stressing me out right now.

I would fucking cut myself right now

to not have to do this.

- [Man] This is like the
climax of your career.

- [Man] You're standing up.

- [Man] He just needs a
three, two, one, see ya!

That's all it takes.
- You're not getting a second.

You're standing up and you're
gonna look at the edge.

- I don't know if I want to do it.

- [Man] Go in three, two,
one, fucking go for it!

- Can't I do like a small
version first or something?

- [Man] Fuck no, this
is the small version.

- You want to do it.
- I actually don't feel like

I want to do it.

- [Andy] Dude I know, that's the fucking

scariest feeling isn't it?

- But like I don't have, like,

- [Andy] You have to, dude!

- [Man] Future you will thank you.

- Will it?

You don't think I'm going to have

a fucking heart attack?
- Do it for future Pete.

- I'm the guy who goes to the,

circus places and I don't
even go on the rollercoaster.

I'm like, "I don't need that".

Like I don't even go on the
water slides at a water park.

- [Man] Reason number
five, childhood anxiety.

- God Dammit!

- [Andy] Just do it!

Get some fucking stoke in you!

You got it Pete!

- [Crowd] Pete, Pete, Pete, Pete!

Pete, Pete, Pete, Pete!

Pete, Pete, Pete, Pete!

- This is like my high school.

- [Crowd] Pete, Pete, Pete, Pete!

- [Man] Fuck yeah, just three!

- Can I do it when we come back?

- [Man] Again, yeah.

But three!

- I mean, can I do it instead?

- [Man] No, no, come on, three!

- All right, hold on, hold on.

Don't talk for a sec.

- [Andy] Dude, you will love

your life. - Shh, he's going to do it.

Shh!

Oh yeah he's got it.

You got it, Pete!

- [Andy] You got it, Pete!

- God Dammit!

- [Andy] Count it down!

- [Man] Take one jump dude.

That's it.

- I'm going to do it tomorrow.

- No!
- No, come on Pete.

- I'm doing it tomorrow.
- No, Pete.

Come on.
- Doing it tomorrow.

Guys, I'm going to do it.

I'm going to do it.

Don't worry I'm not, I'm gonna do it.

There's no question.

It's getting late.

I don't want to drive in the dark.

I want to do it tomorrow.

Thanks for the encouragement.

- I lost faith in you.

I'm mad at you.

I'm not talking to you for five minutes.

- Everyone's going to make fun of me.

But I'm going to come back and do it.

- Dude, it's not.

It's not our fault that
we're going to have

to make fun of you.

Can we just state for the record that,

- Dude the winds are so good right now.

- The leader of Sender Films
is now handing off the baton

to the leader of Chuck Fryberger Films

to go ahead and do something ballsy.

- Good?

Good?

Andy, looks good?

You think I got it?

- [Andy] You got it, dude.

- Alright!

Three!

- [Andy] Yeah just walk right over here.

- Right here?

- [Man] Yup, go for it!

- Three, two, one!

See ya!

- [Andy] Yeah!

Yeah!

Yeah, buddy!

- [Man] Yeah, Pete!

- [Man] Explain to me the plan here.

Just give me the lowdown.

- So, Andy's going to
be walking on a highline

soaked with white gas and diesel.

And then I'm going to come up
and splash white gas on it.

And then light it with a torch.

And the lines going to break

and Andy's going to go
into the rope swing.

- What would be cool is
for me is if it could light

and it was actually on my feet.

Let's do it!

(laughing)

I think we need to stop fucking around

and fucking soak some line in
some gas and get some fire!

- [Man] Hey Pete, what do you think

about the safety of this stunt?

- I think it's safe if we do it right.

If we take the necessary precautions.

I think we're figuring it out.

Alright that's great.
- Let's do it.

Okay I'm going to start rigging the line.

Where's the white gas?

Let's try the white gas.

- [Man] Thomas do you
think this is a good idea?

- Fantastic idea!

What could go wrong?

- I think that it can be safe.

I think it definitely could turn out safe.

- [Man] Hopefully it'll burn.

- Alright, I'm ready.
- Here we go!

- Be mean with it!

- [Man] Evaporated.

It's going to pop.

It's burning.

- [Man] Okay.

(wind blowing)

(snapping)

- Hi!

I'm Andy Lewis.

Welcome to Andy's world.

Episode One.

(water crashing)

(hooting)

- [Cameraman] You know
it's officially safe.

- Are you recording?

- [Cameraman] Yes.

(hip hop music)

(splashing)

(splashing)

(revving)

- We're a bit lost, but I
think we're on the trail soon.

Well, here we go.

Fuckin' A.

Well, here I am

in the middle of a 400 foot long highline.

I'm fucking scared.

Fly away.

Rolling on two!

One, and,

two!

I'm rich, biatch!