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Narrator: The ngorongoro crater
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00:00:06,132 --> 00:00:10,259
Is an environment both beautiful
and unusual.
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00:00:14,548 --> 00:00:17,808
It contains an array of habitats
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00:00:17,885 --> 00:00:20,394
And a yearlong supply of water.
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00:00:24,191 --> 00:00:27,893
This ensures that it is always
teeming with life -
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00:00:27,903 --> 00:00:30,529
Even at the
height of the dry season.
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00:00:32,649 --> 00:00:36,410
But this blessing
can quickly become a curse.
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00:00:38,581 --> 00:00:40,414
Its closed-off nature
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Has caused behavior unseen
anywhere outside of its walls.
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This is ngorongoro crater,
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The cursed haven.
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40 million years ago,
"the rifting" began.
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00:01:45,314 --> 00:01:48,306
When the earth's crust
along africa's eastern plain
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00:01:48,317 --> 00:01:49,900
Started to thin,
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00:01:49,977 --> 00:01:52,277
A massive fault line formed.
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00:01:57,284 --> 00:01:59,985
As the continent split apart,
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00:01:59,995 --> 00:02:02,830
The land
on either side collapsed.
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00:02:05,334 --> 00:02:09,503
And lava thrust up
from within the earth,
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00:02:19,256 --> 00:02:24,393
Leaving a massive depression
of highlands and volcanoes -
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00:02:28,599 --> 00:02:30,983
The great rift valley.
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00:02:47,877 --> 00:02:50,043
2.5 million years ago
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00:02:50,120 --> 00:02:54,214
One of these volcanoes erupted.
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00:02:54,341 --> 00:03:00,712
The ngorongoro volcano was about
the same size as kilimanjaro.
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00:03:00,723 --> 00:03:04,883
Trapped lava from within the
base had nowhere to move,
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00:03:04,894 --> 00:03:08,228
And the entire mountain
imploded,
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00:03:08,305 --> 00:03:13,233
Forming what is known
as a caldera.
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00:03:13,360 --> 00:03:18,071
For years it remained desolate
and uninhabited.
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00:03:18,148 --> 00:03:22,317
But as the fires settled
and the slopes cooled
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00:03:22,328 --> 00:03:26,914
Vegetation started
to colonize the steep banks,
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00:03:26,990 --> 00:03:30,667
Thriving off the rich soils
and moisture.
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00:03:34,006 --> 00:03:37,424
Herbivores followed
the flora over the rim,
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00:03:38,835 --> 00:03:40,802
And down into the crater.
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00:03:48,604 --> 00:03:51,980
Soon after,
the carnivores followed.
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00:04:01,942 --> 00:04:03,942
With no incentive to leave,
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00:04:03,953 --> 00:04:06,954
The animals have stayed here
ever since.
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00:04:08,624 --> 00:04:11,533
The result
is an oasis of wildlife
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Known as the ngorongoro crater.
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00:04:20,386 --> 00:04:25,305
Covering an area
of 125 square miles,
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The ngorongoro crater
in tanzania
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Is the largest
intact caldera on earth.
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00:04:34,391 --> 00:04:39,695
Today 25,000 large animals
make their home here.
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00:04:46,495 --> 00:04:49,329
Among these
is the greatest concentration
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Of carnivores on the planet;
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00:04:54,995 --> 00:04:57,671
Some of the world's
oldest elephants,
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Largest grazers -
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And most charismatic birds.
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00:05:14,848 --> 00:05:16,773
And their desire to stay
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00:05:16,850 --> 00:05:21,987
Is closely related to the
unusual layout of the land.
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00:05:29,613 --> 00:05:32,947
The ngorongoro crater
has a range of habitats
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00:05:32,958 --> 00:05:37,210
Within one consolidated arena.
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00:05:37,287 --> 00:05:40,339
From plains
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00:05:41,124 --> 00:05:44,384
To freshwater swamps,
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00:05:44,553 --> 00:05:46,345
Soda lakes,
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00:05:48,298 --> 00:05:50,515
Forests
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00:05:52,552 --> 00:05:54,478
And wetlands.
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00:06:18,670 --> 00:06:21,579
During tanzania's dry season
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00:06:21,590 --> 00:06:26,584
The crater's savanna
becomes frail and desolate.
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00:06:26,595 --> 00:06:28,837
Each resident must embark
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00:06:28,847 --> 00:06:31,506
On a migration
within the crater walls
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00:06:31,517 --> 00:06:34,843
To reach its water source.
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00:06:34,853 --> 00:06:37,687
The wetlands
in the center of ngorongoro
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Provide generously
all year round.
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00:06:43,112 --> 00:06:44,853
Tempted to stay inside
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00:06:44,863 --> 00:06:47,447
Because of its
permanent supply of water,
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The inhabitants rarely step
outside of the sheer walls.
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This has caused behavior
not seen
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In any other animals
on the planet.
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00:07:00,629 --> 00:07:02,954
Imprisoned
by their natural instincts
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00:07:02,965 --> 00:07:06,216
They stay within this
amphitheater
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00:07:06,293 --> 00:07:09,469
Even when it is
to their detriment.
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00:07:12,307 --> 00:07:15,892
Leaving the question
as to whether it is a paradise
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00:07:15,969 --> 00:07:17,436
Or a prison.
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00:07:37,082 --> 00:07:41,460
Lions are the famed hunters
of the african savanna.
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00:07:44,256 --> 00:07:47,257
They are highly effective
pack predators,
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Able to take on large prey
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00:07:49,344 --> 00:07:52,471
Due to their size and strength.
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00:08:38,769 --> 00:08:41,853
But the lions in the crater
are different.
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00:08:45,776 --> 00:08:47,225
The dominant prides,
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00:08:47,236 --> 00:08:50,820
Unwilling to share
in the bounty of ngorongoro,
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00:08:50,897 --> 00:08:55,659
Have chased away all migrating
lions that attempted to enter.
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00:08:57,329 --> 00:08:58,912
Because of this,
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The crater has caused
what is referred to as
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A genetic bottleneck,
limiting the gene pool.
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All of the crater lions
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Are descended from a single
isolated population.
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Generations of interbreeding
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00:09:15,171 --> 00:09:19,558
Have left these lions
more prone to disease.
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00:09:23,013 --> 00:09:25,930
Because of the consolidated
nature of the crater,
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00:09:25,941 --> 00:09:28,016
Their natural survival instincts
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Have become
their biggest detriment.
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00:09:32,823 --> 00:09:37,284
Years of holding onto the spoils
of ngorongoro
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00:09:38,120 --> 00:09:39,828
Has taken its toll.
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00:09:44,459 --> 00:09:47,452
And this has caused
another inversion
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00:09:47,462 --> 00:09:51,172
In the usual hierarchies
of the animal world.
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00:09:53,710 --> 00:09:56,127
This is the only place
on the planet
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00:09:56,138 --> 00:10:00,181
Where lions are not
the kings of the savanna.
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00:10:10,560 --> 00:10:15,238
In ngorongoro lions scavenge
up to 80 percent of their food
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00:10:15,315 --> 00:10:18,617
From the dominant hyena clans.
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00:10:22,414 --> 00:10:26,666
The crater is home to 400
spotted hyenas.
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00:10:28,253 --> 00:10:31,671
And here they are unmatched
for their size,
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00:10:31,882 --> 00:10:34,841
Power, and hunting efficiency.
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The crater hyenas
do not suffer from interbreeding
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As the lions do.
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00:10:44,269 --> 00:10:46,436
Males are chased from their
birth group
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By the dominant females;
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00:10:48,765 --> 00:10:52,016
This forces them
to reproduce elsewhere.
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The hyenas roam
the dry plains of the crater
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As the unexpected
rulers of an unorthodox domain.
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00:11:15,842 --> 00:11:18,376
Even in the depths
of the dry season,
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00:11:18,387 --> 00:11:22,806
The ngorongoro crater boasts
an abundance of residents.
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00:11:22,882 --> 00:11:24,966
And their desire to stay
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00:11:24,976 --> 00:11:28,520
Is closely related
to the history of the land.
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00:11:31,983 --> 00:11:34,818
During the formation
of the great rift valley,
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00:11:34,894 --> 00:11:37,946
A surge of landscapes emerged.
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00:11:43,486 --> 00:11:45,495
As the ground broke apart,
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00:11:45,572 --> 00:11:49,040
A range of new environments
and species were born.
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00:11:54,965 --> 00:11:58,591
The crater is a product
of this tectonic flux
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00:11:58,668 --> 00:12:01,761
And it has inherited some
interesting characteristics
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Because of this.
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00:12:04,090 --> 00:12:07,767
As clouds scrape the top of the
montane forest on the rim,
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00:12:07,844 --> 00:12:11,938
Moisture is continuously flushed
through the system.
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00:12:14,985 --> 00:12:18,019
As a result,
it creates its own climate
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00:12:18,029 --> 00:12:20,739
Separate from
the surrounding areas.
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00:12:40,877 --> 00:12:44,888
Even in the dry season when
everything else begins to wither
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00:12:44,964 --> 00:12:48,057
The crater forests
still flourish.
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00:12:52,397 --> 00:12:54,472
This dense greenery
is a result
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00:12:54,483 --> 00:12:57,776
Of the unique
topography of the rim.
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00:12:59,479 --> 00:13:04,073
It is a forest haven, unhindered
by the changing seasons.
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00:13:50,446 --> 00:13:53,957
Every year
outside of the caldera walls,
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Tens of thousands of animals
migrate across the serengeti
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00:13:58,204 --> 00:14:01,548
To escape tanzania's dry season.
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00:14:01,624 --> 00:14:04,467
But the crater animals
stay where they are.
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00:14:07,305 --> 00:14:09,889
They circulate
around the crater floor
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00:14:09,966 --> 00:14:12,559
Every day on internal migrations
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00:14:12,635 --> 00:14:15,854
In search of grazing and water.
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00:14:22,061 --> 00:14:24,070
Though the cloud forests
on the rim
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00:14:24,147 --> 00:14:26,314
Maintain moisture
all year round,
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00:14:26,324 --> 00:14:28,491
During periods of drought
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00:14:28,568 --> 00:14:32,620
Little of this trickles down to
the savanna on the crater floor.
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00:14:34,407 --> 00:14:37,083
And the majority
of the animals that live here
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00:14:37,160 --> 00:14:40,920
Are confined to endure
this scarce habitat.
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00:14:49,422 --> 00:14:51,422
Wildebeest are restricted to eat
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00:14:51,433 --> 00:14:54,976
On the ngorongoro crater's
savanna biome.
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00:14:57,522 --> 00:15:00,189
Their broad muzzle
and loose lips
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00:15:00,266 --> 00:15:04,903
Are adaptations
suited to rapid, bulk feeding.
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00:15:17,792 --> 00:15:20,793
They feast on grass that
responds well to grazing,
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00:15:20,870 --> 00:15:23,004
Trampling and manure.
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00:15:27,552 --> 00:15:29,969
They cannot graze
the grasses on the rim,
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00:15:30,180 --> 00:15:32,639
Which are too delicate to deal
with the wildebeest's
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00:15:32,715 --> 00:15:35,224
Boisterous eating habits.
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00:15:35,301 --> 00:15:39,771
This keeps the wildebeest
on the dry plateau below.
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00:16:23,191 --> 00:16:24,691
When rains are minimal,
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00:16:24,767 --> 00:16:28,486
These shallow-rooted grasses
quickly stop growing.
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00:16:34,703 --> 00:16:37,036
The confined nature
of the crater
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Means that the plains become
crowded wastelands
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00:16:39,624 --> 00:16:40,707
With little moisture.
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00:16:48,708 --> 00:16:51,676
But wildebeest
need to drink daily.
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00:17:01,730 --> 00:17:03,479
So they are limited to pastures
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00:17:03,556 --> 00:17:07,358
No further than 9 miles
away from water.
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00:17:14,984 --> 00:17:19,620
Every day they must embark
on a migration to the wetlands.
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00:17:42,312 --> 00:17:45,730
But they are not the only ones
caught in this unforgiving loop.
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Ngorongoro is also home
to 4,000 grant's zebra.
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The two groups of animals
constantly feed
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00:18:07,545 --> 00:18:11,372
As they move across the crater
floor every day to the wetlands
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00:18:11,382 --> 00:18:13,382
In the search for water.
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00:18:24,646 --> 00:18:27,396
Where the wildebeest
prefer the shoots of new grass
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00:18:27,473 --> 00:18:29,982
Closer to the ground,
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00:18:30,059 --> 00:18:34,278
Zebra enjoy the coarser,
taller stalks.
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00:18:35,731 --> 00:18:39,575
Zebra are known
to be pioneer grazers,
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00:18:39,652 --> 00:18:41,661
Moving over
a patch of earth first
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00:18:41,737 --> 00:18:44,664
And cropping it down to a
size that other species
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00:18:44,740 --> 00:18:47,500
Including wildebeest, prefer.
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00:19:11,100 --> 00:19:13,350
Moving in bigger mixed herds
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00:19:13,361 --> 00:19:16,696
Reduces an individual's chance
of being attacked
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00:19:16,772 --> 00:19:21,951
By creating an added distraction
from predators.
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00:19:22,028 --> 00:19:24,871
This makes traveling
in large numbers beneficial,
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00:19:24,947 --> 00:19:26,914
Especially in the crater.
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00:19:38,961 --> 00:19:42,889
For the scavengers the dry
season is a time of opportunity.
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00:19:48,137 --> 00:19:52,732
Every life taken within the
crater is a chance to feed.
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00:19:58,314 --> 00:20:01,490
Golden jackals
stalk the grasslands,
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00:20:03,411 --> 00:20:06,621
Eating whatever they can,
when they can.
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00:20:18,092 --> 00:20:20,259
More adapted
to an arid lifestyle
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00:20:20,428 --> 00:20:22,336
Than any other
species of jackal,
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00:20:22,347 --> 00:20:25,673
They owe their success to their
ability to live on anything
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00:20:25,683 --> 00:20:29,852
From fruit and berries
to rodents and carrion.
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00:20:40,365 --> 00:20:43,282
They will eat
whatever food can be acquired
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00:20:43,409 --> 00:20:45,451
With the least amount of effort.
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00:20:51,617 --> 00:20:54,627
This is paramount in ngorongoro
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00:20:54,704 --> 00:20:58,631
Where they have much competition
from some formidable foes.
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00:21:04,889 --> 00:21:09,267
In ngorongoro,
hyenas have dominion over all.
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00:21:12,555 --> 00:21:17,641
Hyena clans exist
in strict hierarchies.
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00:21:17,652 --> 00:21:20,152
Social rank is fundamental
to the success
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00:21:20,229 --> 00:21:25,649
Of their highly
coordinated hunting excursions.
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00:21:25,660 --> 00:21:30,288
And strength is the principle
that underlies the whole system.
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00:21:40,508 --> 00:21:44,927
Females are ranked according to
how many fights they have won.
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00:21:45,004 --> 00:21:48,848
In their world the most feared
is at the top.
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00:21:53,521 --> 00:21:56,814
Their ferocity makes them
formidable hunters.
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00:22:01,195 --> 00:22:05,105
The best fighters
have priority at carcasses.
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00:22:07,952 --> 00:22:10,328
And they are highly territorial.
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00:22:15,451 --> 00:22:20,629
They roam this unusual land
as distinctive emperors,
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00:22:20,706 --> 00:22:25,634
Unrivaled for both their
strength and hunting efficiency.
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00:22:49,744 --> 00:22:53,204
For the scavengers the dry
season is a time of plenty.
203
00:22:57,326 --> 00:23:01,379
Tawny eagles are well-known
pirates of the savanna,
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00:23:03,549 --> 00:23:05,758
Often intimidating others
off a kill
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00:23:05,835 --> 00:23:08,594
In order to enjoy it
for themselves.
206
00:23:13,851 --> 00:23:16,677
Their keen eyesight
and rapid flight speed
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00:23:16,687 --> 00:23:19,179
Ensure that they are
quick on the uptake
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00:23:19,190 --> 00:23:22,608
When the crater
claims an animal.
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00:23:35,706 --> 00:23:38,782
The flat, open nature
of the crater floor
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00:23:38,793 --> 00:23:40,543
Provides ideal conditions
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00:23:40,619 --> 00:23:45,423
For another scavenger's
impeccable sense of sight.
212
00:23:51,639 --> 00:23:55,808
Vultures soar on thermals
to look for carrion.
213
00:24:02,391 --> 00:24:06,235
But the layout of the caldera
suits other birds too,
214
00:24:08,614 --> 00:24:11,648
And not all of them favor
taking to the skies
215
00:24:11,659 --> 00:24:14,243
In the search of food.
216
00:24:18,991 --> 00:24:23,243
Secretary birds thrive in the
crater's barren grasslands
217
00:24:23,254 --> 00:24:26,630
And this is because of the
structure of their body.
218
00:24:28,759 --> 00:24:31,177
Secretary birds
prefer moving around
219
00:24:31,253 --> 00:24:35,005
On their long powerful legs
over flying.
220
00:24:37,602 --> 00:24:42,229
They can move over 18 miles
a day in the search for food.
221
00:24:46,777 --> 00:24:48,777
Unlike most birds of prey,
222
00:24:48,854 --> 00:24:52,531
Their favored method of killing
is not with their beaks
223
00:24:52,608 --> 00:24:54,325
But their legs.
224
00:24:58,280 --> 00:25:02,032
Using these powerful pistons
to stamp smaller prey,
225
00:25:02,043 --> 00:25:05,619
They are efficient predators.
226
00:25:05,630 --> 00:25:08,547
And the desolate plains
of ngorongoro
227
00:25:08,716 --> 00:25:10,966
Are the ideal hunting ground.
228
00:25:19,468 --> 00:25:21,310
The open layout of the floor
229
00:25:21,387 --> 00:25:24,772
Is also important
for the crater's biggest bird.
230
00:25:31,063 --> 00:25:34,231
Unable to fly,
ostriches rely on their speed
231
00:25:34,242 --> 00:25:37,660
To evade predators
like lions and hyenas.
232
00:25:41,657 --> 00:25:47,169
When they need to, they can
sprint over 40 miles an hour.
233
00:25:47,246 --> 00:25:50,714
But when there is no danger
around they do something else.
234
00:25:52,927 --> 00:25:56,136
This dance
is an invitation to mate.
235
00:26:02,770 --> 00:26:05,846
Ostrich mating
precedes the rains.
236
00:26:05,856 --> 00:26:08,607
This is so that their chicks
will be born
237
00:26:08,776 --> 00:26:10,943
In the abundance of
the wet season.
238
00:26:12,855 --> 00:26:16,574
And they are not the only crater
birds joining in the ritual.
239
00:26:24,033 --> 00:26:27,084
Crowned cranes
eagerly await the rains.
240
00:26:28,120 --> 00:26:29,703
These elegant birds
241
00:26:29,714 --> 00:26:34,124
Need permanent marshes
to make their nests.
242
00:26:34,135 --> 00:26:37,044
But once again,
the dry grass is the reason
243
00:26:37,054 --> 00:26:40,389
They have been drawn out
from their wetland homes.
244
00:26:42,885 --> 00:26:46,312
The crater floor is a prime
hunting ground for them.
245
00:26:49,483 --> 00:26:51,391
They are mixed feeders;
246
00:26:51,402 --> 00:26:56,363
Eating anything from insects and
lizards to flowers and seeds.
247
00:27:03,164 --> 00:27:05,831
These short dry grasslands
248
00:27:05,908 --> 00:27:07,991
Enable them
to use their long limbs
249
00:27:08,002 --> 00:27:11,837
To comb through the savanna
in search of smaller prey.
250
00:27:17,586 --> 00:27:19,678
Like everything else
in the crater,
251
00:27:19,889 --> 00:27:22,181
They need to make the migration
every day
252
00:27:22,257 --> 00:27:24,683
From the dry savanna
feeding grounds
253
00:27:24,894 --> 00:27:27,770
To the lush marshlands
in search of water.
254
00:27:43,537 --> 00:27:47,414
Raising young in these
conditions is no easy feat.
255
00:27:53,038 --> 00:27:56,131
Buffalo are the largest members
of their family
256
00:27:56,208 --> 00:28:01,053
And they require a lot of water
to maintain their massive bulk.
257
00:28:03,891 --> 00:28:05,724
But they too can only feed
258
00:28:05,801 --> 00:28:09,395
On the dry grasses
of the crater floor.
259
00:28:12,233 --> 00:28:15,275
Calves weigh just under 100
pounds at birth
260
00:28:17,863 --> 00:28:21,240
And are largely
defenseless until they mature.
261
00:28:23,068 --> 00:28:25,744
They are utterly dependent
on their mother's knowledge
262
00:28:25,955 --> 00:28:29,998
To survive
the long periods of drought.
263
00:28:30,075 --> 00:28:33,994
And they too must journey
between the crater's savanna
264
00:28:34,004 --> 00:28:36,714
And its marshes every day.
265
00:28:41,345 --> 00:28:43,336
Water is the driving force
266
00:28:43,347 --> 00:28:47,266
Behind the continued occupancy
of the ngorongoro animals.
267
00:28:51,981 --> 00:28:53,772
There are other areas nearby
268
00:28:53,941 --> 00:28:56,275
That support life
throughout the year,
269
00:28:56,351 --> 00:29:00,320
But their waters
are inaccessible to most.
270
00:29:03,951 --> 00:29:05,534
The lakes of the rift valley
271
00:29:05,611 --> 00:29:09,037
Are a product of aggressive
geological forces,
272
00:29:09,114 --> 00:29:12,532
And some have retained
inhospitable characteristics
273
00:29:12,543 --> 00:29:14,877
Because of this.
274
00:29:17,381 --> 00:29:21,800
Before the rifting,
there were no lakes in africa.
275
00:29:21,969 --> 00:29:27,055
But as the earth was violently
reshaped, water began to settle.
276
00:29:28,550 --> 00:29:31,301
When the lakes
of the great rift valley formed,
277
00:29:31,312 --> 00:29:35,439
Much of the ground was covered
in lava and ash.
278
00:29:40,029 --> 00:29:42,229
As water
filtered through the ground,
279
00:29:42,239 --> 00:29:46,233
Volcanic chemicals
were carried into the lakes,
280
00:29:46,243 --> 00:29:49,578
Creating a hostile
aquatic world.
281
00:29:53,000 --> 00:29:57,160
Lake natron lies at the foot
of mount ol donyo legai,
282
00:29:57,171 --> 00:30:00,631
60 miles
to the north of ngorongoro.
283
00:30:03,919 --> 00:30:09,223
Its caustic waters are strong
enough to corrode human limbs.
284
00:30:11,093 --> 00:30:15,187
Only about 15 inches of rain
reaches it per year,
285
00:30:16,440 --> 00:30:18,899
Much of which is 'phantom rain'.
286
00:30:21,195 --> 00:30:22,861
The water evaporates
287
00:30:23,072 --> 00:30:26,073
Before it has even touched
the surface of the lake.
288
00:30:29,528 --> 00:30:33,288
As a result, the lake's waters
do not come from the sky,
289
00:30:33,365 --> 00:30:35,833
But rather
from under the ground.
290
00:30:39,788 --> 00:30:41,463
Little that comes into contact
291
00:30:41,540 --> 00:30:44,174
With the volcanic waters
survives.
292
00:30:46,095 --> 00:30:47,961
But a single-celled organism,
293
00:30:47,972 --> 00:30:51,223
Visible only when magnified
a thousand times,
294
00:30:51,300 --> 00:30:53,892
Thrives here.
295
00:30:54,103 --> 00:30:58,471
Spirulina platenisis flourish in
the carbonate-rich water,
296
00:30:58,482 --> 00:31:02,568
Under high temperatures
and plenty of sunlight.
297
00:31:02,644 --> 00:31:04,394
Providing a source of food
298
00:31:04,405 --> 00:31:07,155
For one of the planet's
oldest birds.
299
00:31:54,204 --> 00:31:56,696
The flamingo's
specially adapted bill
300
00:31:56,707 --> 00:32:01,117
Allows it to graze the upper
inch of the corrosive water
301
00:32:01,128 --> 00:32:03,629
And harvest the spirulina .
302
00:32:09,386 --> 00:32:12,554
The heavy arch of the bill
allows great quantities
303
00:32:12,631 --> 00:32:16,141
To be sucked over fine hairs
inside their mandible,
304
00:32:18,145 --> 00:32:20,270
Filtering out the food.
305
00:32:26,737 --> 00:32:30,781
These waters can sometimes
exceed 120 degrees fahrenheit.
306
00:32:49,259 --> 00:32:53,595
A flamingo's hard, featherless
leg is one of the few things
307
00:32:53,672 --> 00:32:56,306
That can withstand
the corrosive lake.
308
00:33:04,266 --> 00:33:10,353
This allows them to wade to the
mud flats right in the middle -
309
00:33:10,364 --> 00:33:15,701
And these are no more welcoming
than the surrounding waters.
310
00:33:15,777 --> 00:33:19,621
Temperatures are high,
winds are strong.
311
00:33:22,292 --> 00:33:25,043
Almost no vegetation survives,
312
00:33:25,212 --> 00:33:28,046
And movement
across the thick muddy terrain
313
00:33:28,257 --> 00:33:31,049
Is impossible for most mammals.
314
00:33:35,806 --> 00:33:41,893
The mud flats also create the
harshest nursery on the planet.
315
00:33:41,970 --> 00:33:45,063
Using lake natron's volcanic
water as a moat
316
00:33:45,232 --> 00:33:47,649
Against all
land based predators;
317
00:33:47,726 --> 00:33:50,736
The flamingos have made
the barren ground in the middle
318
00:33:50,812 --> 00:33:53,447
The ideal breeding site.
319
00:33:57,244 --> 00:34:02,489
This is the largest flamingo
breeding ground in the world.
320
00:34:02,499 --> 00:34:05,742
The land's unusual
and inhospitable nature
321
00:34:05,753 --> 00:34:09,504
Has given them exclusive feeding
and breeding rights.
322
00:34:12,334 --> 00:34:15,260
But they are not the only
creatures that have adapted
323
00:34:15,337 --> 00:34:17,637
To withstand
the volcanic waters.
324
00:34:21,935 --> 00:34:24,061
The alkaline tilapia.
325
00:34:26,231 --> 00:34:29,349
These fish live on the edge
of the hot spring inlets
326
00:34:29,359 --> 00:34:32,861
Where the water reaches
100 degrees fahrenheit.
327
00:34:34,523 --> 00:34:37,115
They have evolved
to endure the high temperatures
328
00:34:37,192 --> 00:34:39,451
And dense alkalinity.
329
00:34:41,330 --> 00:34:44,122
The only places in the world
that they occur
330
00:34:44,291 --> 00:34:47,834
Are the soda lakes
of the great rift valley.
331
00:34:50,455 --> 00:34:53,465
The landscape is harsh
and unyielding
332
00:34:53,542 --> 00:34:57,928
Yet over time
life has adapted to survive.
333
00:35:00,298 --> 00:35:04,968
Thriving off the volcanic
hostility and unusual geography,
334
00:35:04,978 --> 00:35:07,646
The animals that live here
have learned to cope
335
00:35:07,722 --> 00:35:10,473
With the severe landscape
336
00:35:10,484 --> 00:35:14,111
And in return
they are provided with a haven.
337
00:35:15,906 --> 00:35:19,157
Because so few animals
can survive here,
338
00:35:19,326 --> 00:35:22,235
The inhabitants
of the rift valley soda lakes
339
00:35:22,246 --> 00:35:26,790
Have their own sanctuary
crafted from lava and ash.
340
00:35:29,578 --> 00:35:32,587
The anomalous formation
of the crater highlands
341
00:35:32,664 --> 00:35:37,717
Ensures that ngorongoro
has water all year around.
342
00:35:40,305 --> 00:35:44,182
Outside of the caldera
the nearby empakai crater
343
00:35:44,351 --> 00:35:46,935
Remains full and luscious,
344
00:35:49,347 --> 00:35:52,774
Regardless of the surrounding
changes in climate.
345
00:36:00,358 --> 00:36:04,452
Water moves from this basin
into ngorongoro,
346
00:36:04,529 --> 00:36:08,281
Feeding its wetlands
throughout the year.
347
00:36:08,292 --> 00:36:11,209
And this enables animals
to live here
348
00:36:11,420 --> 00:36:14,796
No matter how little
is provided by the rain.
349
00:36:26,718 --> 00:36:29,469
Every day the inhabitants must
make the walk
350
00:36:29,479 --> 00:36:31,471
Across the crater's savanna
351
00:36:31,481 --> 00:36:33,732
To reach
its enduring water supply.
352
00:36:36,311 --> 00:36:38,478
This brings
the entire population
353
00:36:38,488 --> 00:36:40,197
Of the crater together.
354
00:36:48,665 --> 00:36:51,824
Though they all have different
feeding requirements,
355
00:36:51,835 --> 00:36:54,336
Every animal needs to drink.
356
00:36:58,667 --> 00:37:00,342
Throughout the day
357
00:37:00,418 --> 00:37:02,844
They spread to different sides
of the crater floor,
358
00:37:02,921 --> 00:37:06,765
But when it is time to get to
the water the entire range
359
00:37:06,841 --> 00:37:08,350
Of the park's wildlife
360
00:37:08,426 --> 00:37:11,937
All funnel towards the marshes.
361
00:37:34,962 --> 00:37:36,869
The ngorongoro crater
362
00:37:36,880 --> 00:37:41,800
Is a sanctuary for tanzania's
last few remaining black rhinos.
363
00:37:47,975 --> 00:37:51,134
Even when the dry season
is at its harshest
364
00:37:51,144 --> 00:37:53,311
They are provided with water.
365
00:38:00,061 --> 00:38:02,404
They are normally elusive,
366
00:38:02,480 --> 00:38:05,073
Hiding within the forests.
367
00:38:05,150 --> 00:38:08,660
But they are drawn out to join
the rest of the residents
368
00:38:08,737 --> 00:38:12,155
In the search for
nourishment.
369
00:38:12,165 --> 00:38:16,042
The wetland is the life force of
the ngorongoro crater.
370
00:38:18,079 --> 00:38:21,506
It ties together
all of the park's residents.
371
00:38:23,918 --> 00:38:25,677
It is the only reason
372
00:38:25,754 --> 00:38:29,764
That they can endure
the severity of the dry season.
373
00:38:36,189 --> 00:38:40,525
The ngorongoro waters
support all stages of life
374
00:38:40,602 --> 00:38:44,988
From the youngest animals
to some of the planets oldest.
375
00:38:51,038 --> 00:38:53,946
It is a haven
for old elephant bulls
376
00:38:53,957 --> 00:38:55,707
That wander inside the crater
377
00:38:55,784 --> 00:38:58,668
For the safety
and seclusion that it offers.
378
00:39:03,708 --> 00:39:08,136
Elephants' tusks keep growing
their entire lives.
379
00:39:10,974 --> 00:39:13,883
By the time a bull
is 60 years old
380
00:39:13,894 --> 00:39:18,897
His tusks can reach a
combined weight of 260 pounds.
381
00:39:19,566 --> 00:39:21,399
As a result,
382
00:39:21,476 --> 00:39:24,811
The ngorongoro elephants are
endowed with tusks of a size
383
00:39:24,821 --> 00:39:28,782
Seldom seen
outside the crater walls.
384
00:39:54,935 --> 00:39:59,396
For the waterfowl,
the wetland is a constant home.
385
00:40:01,525 --> 00:40:06,694
Great white pelicans are bound
to the water throughout the day.
386
00:40:08,698 --> 00:40:11,858
In the morning
they will hunt for fish
387
00:40:11,868 --> 00:40:14,285
And for the rest of the day
388
00:40:14,362 --> 00:40:17,664
They will
socially bathe and preen.
389
00:40:21,628 --> 00:40:23,044
Their fishing techniques
390
00:40:23,121 --> 00:40:26,673
See them dependent
on the shallow warm waters.
391
00:40:30,137 --> 00:40:33,054
They are joined
by other birds on the hunt.
392
00:40:36,601 --> 00:40:39,477
The yellow-billed stork's
odd shaped bill
393
00:40:39,604 --> 00:40:43,481
Is perfectly adapted
to fishing in drying rivers.
394
00:40:45,727 --> 00:40:48,728
As fish become trapped
in shallower pools,
395
00:40:48,738 --> 00:40:52,315
The storks use their feet
to stir up the muddy water
396
00:40:52,325 --> 00:40:55,785
Before stabbing fish
with their sharp beak.
397
00:41:05,413 --> 00:41:08,506
They also have an intriguing way
of cooling themselves
398
00:41:08,675 --> 00:41:11,509
In the heat of the day -
399
00:41:11,720 --> 00:41:13,678
While standing around preening
400
00:41:13,755 --> 00:41:17,599
They will urinate on themselves
to cool their legs.
401
00:41:19,686 --> 00:41:21,677
As the urine crystallizes,
402
00:41:21,688 --> 00:41:25,690
The whitish colors act
as a screen to reflect the sun.
403
00:41:35,610 --> 00:41:40,079
For them water is a constant
source of food and nourishment.
404
00:41:56,139 --> 00:41:58,881
And the crater's wetlands
are a constant home
405
00:41:58,892 --> 00:42:01,518
For another far larger resident.
406
00:42:19,237 --> 00:42:22,989
For hippo to live comfortably
they need a water source
407
00:42:22,999 --> 00:42:26,376
That is deep enough for them to
submerge completely -
408
00:42:38,256 --> 00:42:41,641
And they also need
to be close to grasslands.
409
00:43:06,367 --> 00:43:09,919
These pools provide them
with the ideal home.
410
00:43:12,373 --> 00:43:16,175
This water haven is
the beating heart of the park.
411
00:43:18,847 --> 00:43:23,600
It supports and provides for all
of its residents all year round,
412
00:43:26,855 --> 00:43:29,063
And without
its dependable sustenance,
413
00:43:29,140 --> 00:43:32,358
Life in the crater
would not be able to endure.
414
00:43:52,830 --> 00:43:56,916
The sheer 1,900 foot drop
of the caldera walls
415
00:43:56,926 --> 00:44:01,638
Sever this landscape from the
surrounding areas in many ways.
416
00:44:03,183 --> 00:44:06,342
It has its own apex predators,
417
00:44:06,353 --> 00:44:08,686
A separate climate
418
00:44:08,763 --> 00:44:14,433
And a wealth
of habitats unseen outside.
419
00:44:14,444 --> 00:44:18,029
But what is on the face of it
a wildlife oasis
420
00:44:18,106 --> 00:44:22,659
May just be something closer
to a natural prison.
421
00:44:23,787 --> 00:44:25,861
Even at the height of drought,
422
00:44:25,872 --> 00:44:30,792
Most animals stay and endure
the severity of the land.
423
00:44:32,379 --> 00:44:34,879
It is a constant home
for herbivores
424
00:44:34,956 --> 00:44:36,964
No matter how frail
425
00:44:37,041 --> 00:44:41,302
And overpopulated
the grasslands become,
426
00:44:41,379 --> 00:44:46,048
Or how many predators roam
the enclosed amphitheater.
427
00:44:48,853 --> 00:44:52,563
Seduced by the temptations
of a yearlong water supply,
428
00:44:52,640 --> 00:44:56,734
Abundant grazing and large
numbers of prey;
429
00:44:56,861 --> 00:44:59,737
The inhabitants were tempted
over the crater walls
430
00:44:59,948 --> 00:45:02,073
Thousands of years ago
431
00:45:02,150 --> 00:45:06,202
And many of their descendants
have never left.
432
00:45:08,248 --> 00:45:11,249
Shackled
by the promises that it offers,
433
00:45:11,325 --> 00:45:15,920
Their instincts for survival
keep them bound to ngorongoro,
434
00:45:15,997 --> 00:45:19,298
Even when this is
to their detriment.
435
00:45:21,335 --> 00:45:26,931
The life that endures here does
so according to its own rules.
436
00:45:27,008 --> 00:45:30,435
Produced by the hostility
of a volcanic environment,
437
00:45:30,511 --> 00:45:33,012
The ngorongoro crater
438
00:45:33,022 --> 00:45:38,517
Is both a generous habitat
and a dangerous trap.
439
00:45:38,528 --> 00:45:42,521
And each of its residents
has to navigate this boundary
440
00:45:42,532 --> 00:45:45,524
In the daily search for water.
441
00:45:45,535 --> 00:45:51,539
The result is an animal kingdom
like no other.
37012
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