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RAIN PATTERS GENTLY
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00:00:05,400 --> 00:00:07,520
GRUNTS
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00:00:07,520 --> 00:00:10,360
It's raining...again.
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00:00:17,720 --> 00:00:21,800
2.5 miles up in Africa's Virunga
mountains,
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00:00:21,800 --> 00:00:24,280
the weather is mostly miserable.
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00:00:25,520 --> 00:00:27,320
There's no point looking for shelter.
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00:00:29,360 --> 00:00:31,680
The resident gorillas' fur
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00:00:31,680 --> 00:00:34,440
is thick enough to keep them warm,
even when it's wet.
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00:00:39,720 --> 00:00:41,160
For sun lovers,
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00:00:41,160 --> 00:00:44,400
the Virungas wouldn't rate high
as a holiday destination.
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00:00:45,800 --> 00:00:47,440
But without this rain,
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00:00:47,440 --> 00:00:51,280
the gorillas wouldn't have food
in such abundance.
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00:00:51,280 --> 00:00:54,360
And there would be no grass
on the plains below.
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00:01:01,840 --> 00:01:04,360
THUNDER RUMBLES
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00:01:06,960 --> 00:01:09,360
WILDEBEEST LOW
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00:01:24,520 --> 00:01:27,200
Across Africa's vast Rift Valley,
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00:01:27,200 --> 00:01:31,920
it's where the rain falls
and how it interacts with the
landscape
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00:01:31,920 --> 00:01:35,400
that determines who will prosper
and who will die.
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00:01:41,840 --> 00:01:45,920
Spanning 3,000 miles along the length
of East Africa,
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00:01:45,920 --> 00:01:52,040
the Great Rift is a complex
of enormous valleys,
volcanoes and grassy plains.
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00:01:58,240 --> 00:02:00,080
The Great Rift was created
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00:02:00,080 --> 00:02:04,200
when a plume of super-hot lava
pushed up beneath Africa
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00:02:04,200 --> 00:02:06,320
over millions of years.
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00:02:07,840 --> 00:02:11,520
But once the whole area had been
lifted more than a mile high,
25
00:02:11,520 --> 00:02:14,080
cracks appeared around the margins...
26
00:02:16,560 --> 00:02:19,240
..creating the Eastern Rift
on one side...
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00:02:21,680 --> 00:02:23,920
..and the Western Rift on the other.
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00:02:30,240 --> 00:02:32,880
In the giant clefts
of the Rift Valley,
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00:02:32,880 --> 00:02:36,120
water collects in vast lakes,
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00:02:36,120 --> 00:02:40,960
home to dazzling arrays
of colourful fish.
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00:02:40,960 --> 00:02:42,640
THUNDER RUMBLES
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00:02:42,640 --> 00:02:49,520
The Rift's rain-drenched mountains
in turn feed Africa's
mightiest rivers,
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00:02:49,520 --> 00:02:56,000
whose tributaries provide a lifeline
for thirsty game in times of drought.
34
00:03:04,600 --> 00:03:08,920
But not all the fresh water here
is good for life.
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00:03:11,640 --> 00:03:16,400
Ash from volcanic eruptions turns
the shallow lakes of the Eastern Rift
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00:03:16,400 --> 00:03:18,560
into caustic death traps.
37
00:03:21,480 --> 00:03:25,840
At its northern end, the Great Rift
plunges into the Red Sea,
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00:03:25,840 --> 00:03:29,320
creating a dazzling world of coral
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00:03:29,320 --> 00:03:33,400
and ocean trenches
hiding deep secrets.
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00:03:48,640 --> 00:03:53,080
Few places on Earth provide
such a range of aquatic habitats.
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00:03:53,080 --> 00:03:56,040
So how has wildlife adapted
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00:03:56,040 --> 00:04:00,400
to the challenges and opportunities
of the Great Rift's watery worlds?
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00:04:02,520 --> 00:04:05,520
HIPPOS BELLOW
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00:04:10,440 --> 00:04:13,400
All the water in the Rift begins
as rain.
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00:04:15,360 --> 00:04:18,200
Converging trade winds
create cloud masses
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00:04:18,200 --> 00:04:20,520
which move up and down
the length of Africa,
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00:04:20,520 --> 00:04:24,160
producing two rainy seasons
each year,
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00:04:24,160 --> 00:04:28,040
bringing the landscape to life.
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00:04:41,480 --> 00:04:46,720
At the end of the long wet season,
the Rift's rivers are brimful
of water.
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00:04:49,360 --> 00:04:54,240
There's abundant food for the hippos
and other riverside residents.
51
00:05:04,560 --> 00:05:06,840
But the good times
won't last for long.
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00:05:11,200 --> 00:05:15,440
As the rains retreat northwards
and the grasslands dry and wither,
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00:05:15,440 --> 00:05:18,480
drinking water becomes
increasingly scarce
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00:05:18,480 --> 00:05:20,680
for the Great Rift's
wild inhabitants.
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00:05:24,960 --> 00:05:28,080
In the savannas,
lakes and pools evaporate
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00:05:28,080 --> 00:05:30,600
until only the rivers remain.
57
00:05:32,920 --> 00:05:37,920
The increasingly arid landscape
poses a problem for these African
buffalo.
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00:05:44,200 --> 00:05:48,000
Because dry grass is difficult
to digest,
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00:05:48,000 --> 00:05:51,040
each buffalo needs to drink
34 litres a day.
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00:05:53,480 --> 00:05:56,000
As the grazing close to the river
is used up,
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00:05:56,000 --> 00:05:59,680
they face a longer and longer
daily trek
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00:05:59,680 --> 00:06:02,640
between their feeding grounds
and watering places.
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00:06:13,400 --> 00:06:16,520
Buffaloes can smell water
from a long way off
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00:06:16,520 --> 00:06:19,360
and follow established trails
through the bush
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00:06:19,360 --> 00:06:23,400
which lead to favourite drinking
spots.
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00:06:32,640 --> 00:06:36,600
As the buffaloes drink,
fluttering oxpeckers get a chance
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00:06:36,600 --> 00:06:39,240
to remove ticks and other parasites
from their faces.
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00:06:42,920 --> 00:06:44,760
It's the only time they will tolerate
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00:06:44,760 --> 00:06:48,120
sharp beaks picking around
sensitive eyes and ears.
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00:06:54,440 --> 00:06:57,520
TRUMPETING AND GRUNTING
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00:06:57,520 --> 00:07:00,160
Elephants are even more dependent
on the river.
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00:07:02,640 --> 00:07:04,680
In this hot climate,
an adult elephant
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00:07:04,680 --> 00:07:09,960
needs to drink a staggering
200 litres a day just to survive.
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00:07:21,680 --> 00:07:25,160
This family share their favourite
drinking spot with other elephants.
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00:07:25,160 --> 00:07:27,440
So as well as slaking their thirst,
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00:07:27,440 --> 00:07:30,640
the river provides
a focus for their social life.
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00:07:41,520 --> 00:07:45,520
River mud provides excellent
protection
against the African sun.
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00:07:54,800 --> 00:07:58,280
With a belly full of water
and a coat of sunscreen,
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00:07:58,280 --> 00:08:02,120
the elephants head off
towards the blistering savanna.
80
00:08:07,800 --> 00:08:11,720
While the falling water level
is bad for elephants and buffaloes,
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00:08:11,720 --> 00:08:14,640
it's just what these bee-eaters need.
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00:08:16,120 --> 00:08:21,040
They dig their nesting burrows in the
vertical banks of Rift Valley rivers,
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00:08:21,040 --> 00:08:25,920
which are only exposed
in the dry season
once water levels have fallen.
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00:08:25,920 --> 00:08:28,480
BEE-EATERS TWITTER
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00:08:31,120 --> 00:08:35,640
Three months ago, this entire
nesting site was underwater
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00:08:35,640 --> 00:08:39,200
and the birds were far away
in the jungles of the Congo.
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00:08:59,000 --> 00:09:02,480
Nesting on an exposed mud cliff
makes the bee-eaters nervous.
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00:09:05,840 --> 00:09:08,160
And with good reason.
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00:09:10,720 --> 00:09:15,080
An African fish eagle
has taken up residence
on the bank-top.
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00:09:18,080 --> 00:09:20,520
But it's not here to admire the view.
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00:09:38,000 --> 00:09:39,560
Fish eagles' huge feet
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00:09:39,560 --> 00:09:42,840
are designed to grab slippery fish
from the water surface,
93
00:09:42,840 --> 00:09:45,480
but they are good for other prey too.
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00:10:17,000 --> 00:10:21,320
The shrinking rivers create a serious
problem for another Rift resident.
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00:10:26,760 --> 00:10:31,160
Hippos' dependence on water is
absolute - they only feel safe
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00:10:31,160 --> 00:10:33,800
where it's deep enough
for them to submerge completely.
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00:10:43,240 --> 00:10:44,680
Hippos feed at night
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00:10:44,680 --> 00:10:49,600
and spend the day digesting their
dinner in the safety of the river.
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00:10:54,960 --> 00:10:56,800
While the grown-ups snooze...
100
00:10:58,600 --> 00:11:00,160
..the youngsters play.
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00:11:21,000 --> 00:11:23,840
Young hippos are very curious.
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00:11:33,160 --> 00:11:34,800
HISSES
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00:11:43,640 --> 00:11:45,160
As the river shrinks,
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00:11:45,160 --> 00:11:49,520
the hippos crowd together in the few
remaining deep-water pools.
105
00:11:55,080 --> 00:11:59,320
Each stretch of river
is controlled by a dominant bull,
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00:11:59,320 --> 00:12:01,840
who tolerates other hippos
in his patch
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00:12:01,840 --> 00:12:05,480
so long as they behave themselves
and defer to him.
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00:12:08,520 --> 00:12:14,280
Keeping your head down and bottom up
while spraying dung in all directions
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00:12:14,280 --> 00:12:17,160
counts as good manners
in hippo society.
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00:12:21,840 --> 00:12:25,640
But jostling your neighbour
is considered very bad behaviour.
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00:12:32,240 --> 00:12:37,000
Any ruckus in such crowded conditions
spreads like a shock wave,
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00:12:37,000 --> 00:12:40,800
causing a multiple pile-up
of grumpy hippos.
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00:12:49,760 --> 00:12:51,920
It's bad news for the hippo
at the end
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00:12:51,920 --> 00:12:54,680
who gets pushed into the path
of the resident bully.
115
00:13:34,440 --> 00:13:39,480
Once the pecking order has been
restored, everyone can settle down.
116
00:13:50,720 --> 00:13:54,960
But there's a darker side
to life in the Rift's river world.
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00:13:58,920 --> 00:14:00,680
At the peak of the dry season,
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00:14:00,680 --> 00:14:04,160
an anthrax epidemic
sweeps through the crowded colony,
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00:14:04,160 --> 00:14:06,440
killing dozens of hippos.
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00:14:18,480 --> 00:14:21,000
The smell of death
carries in the current.
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00:14:24,200 --> 00:14:27,080
Within a few hours, the hippo carcass
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00:14:27,080 --> 00:14:30,600
has attracted more than a hundred
crocodiles from far downstream.
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00:14:43,480 --> 00:14:46,360
Crocs' ultra-efficient immune system
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00:14:46,360 --> 00:14:50,560
allows these reptiles to eat diseased
meat without getting sick.
125
00:14:57,360 --> 00:15:01,840
The smaller crocs hang back
while their elders guzzle and gulp...
126
00:15:02,920 --> 00:15:07,200
..shadowed by a hopeful heron
on the lookout for fish.
127
00:15:12,760 --> 00:15:15,240
But it's the crocs' day.
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00:15:19,480 --> 00:15:25,760
Life and death are never far apart
in the waters of the Great Rift.
129
00:15:33,160 --> 00:15:35,120
But not every lake or river
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00:15:35,120 --> 00:15:38,320
is at the mercy of the seasons
and the sun.
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00:15:45,720 --> 00:15:48,280
Beneath the Great Rift's rolling
hills,
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00:15:48,280 --> 00:15:52,240
porous volcanic rocks
channel water deep underground,
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00:15:52,240 --> 00:15:54,360
sometimes for many miles.
134
00:16:05,160 --> 00:16:08,800
The subterranean water
eventually pops out as a spring,
135
00:16:08,800 --> 00:16:12,040
like this one at Mzima
in southern Kenya,
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00:16:12,040 --> 00:16:16,920
feeding an oasis of crystal-clear
streams and lakes.
137
00:16:26,680 --> 00:16:29,560
Because it's supplied from
a large underground reservoir,
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00:16:29,560 --> 00:16:32,760
a volcanic spring like Mzima
continues to flow
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00:16:32,760 --> 00:16:35,560
even at the height of the dry
season...
140
00:16:40,160 --> 00:16:44,760
..providing a year-round haven
for wildlife.
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00:16:45,760 --> 00:16:48,840
SNORTS
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00:17:02,320 --> 00:17:04,480
And the Rift's unique geology
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00:17:04,480 --> 00:17:06,720
has produced another kind
of water supply
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00:17:06,720 --> 00:17:08,720
that's equally immune from drought.
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00:17:10,920 --> 00:17:12,600
Plunging six miles deep,
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00:17:12,600 --> 00:17:17,000
Lake Tanganyika is Africa's
greatest natural reservoir.
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00:17:18,040 --> 00:17:21,720
It contains 30 trillion litres
of water...
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00:17:24,560 --> 00:17:28,640
..and stretches 400 miles
along the Western Rift Valley.
149
00:17:35,400 --> 00:17:39,200
Its sister lake, Malawi,
has a similar profile.
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00:17:46,560 --> 00:17:51,400
Lake Malawi is famous for its
extraordinary diversity of cichlids.
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00:17:51,400 --> 00:17:56,320
More than a thousand unique varieties
found nowhere else on Earth.
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00:18:03,280 --> 00:18:07,040
All are believed to be descended from
just a handful of species
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00:18:07,040 --> 00:18:11,880
which have evolved a dazzling array
of shapes, colours and behaviours.
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00:18:18,000 --> 00:18:20,440
The key to this explosion
of evolution
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00:18:20,440 --> 00:18:23,680
lies in the cichlids'
peculiar breeding behaviour.
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00:18:27,560 --> 00:18:31,240
Unlike most fish, which release
their eggs into open water,
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00:18:31,240 --> 00:18:33,840
cichlids take great care
of their young.
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00:18:37,760 --> 00:18:42,560
Some sandy bottom species
build volcano-shaped nests
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00:18:42,560 --> 00:18:46,320
where the male courts his female,
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00:18:46,320 --> 00:18:48,040
then guards her brood
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00:18:48,040 --> 00:18:50,920
until they have grown big enough
to look after themselves.
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00:19:06,560 --> 00:19:10,800
Other baby cichlids have
a truly bizarre relationship
with their mother.
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00:19:10,800 --> 00:19:14,400
When threatened,
they take shelter in her mouth.
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00:19:16,440 --> 00:19:21,120
She then carries them around,
waiting until the coast is clear
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00:19:21,120 --> 00:19:24,200
before releasing them
back into open water.
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00:19:28,280 --> 00:19:30,120
Such intensive parenting
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00:19:30,120 --> 00:19:34,600
means cichlids often stay in one spot
throughout their lives,
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00:19:34,600 --> 00:19:41,200
forming inbred communities
which turn into unique local species.
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00:19:41,200 --> 00:19:46,440
And that explains
why Lake Malawi is filled
with so many different cichlids.
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00:19:52,280 --> 00:19:57,520
For little fish, the rocky lake
margin is a dangerous place.
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00:19:59,560 --> 00:20:02,600
A family group
of African spot-necked otters
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00:20:02,600 --> 00:20:05,320
sets out to hunt along the shoreline.
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00:20:26,000 --> 00:20:31,040
As night falls, the lake's fish
face a formidable enemy.
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00:20:33,480 --> 00:20:39,200
Pack-hunting nyanda fish,
1.5m long, behave like sharks,
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00:20:39,200 --> 00:20:41,120
using an electrical sense
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00:20:41,120 --> 00:20:45,640
to home in on the life signs
of smaller fish
hiding among the rocks.
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00:20:52,560 --> 00:20:55,640
It's thought they can even
communicate with electrical signals,
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00:20:55,640 --> 00:20:58,200
to synchronise their feeding
in the dark.
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00:21:05,760 --> 00:21:09,040
For their prey,
there's little chance of escape.
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00:21:15,040 --> 00:21:16,560
Further from shore,
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00:21:16,560 --> 00:21:19,560
Lake Malawi plummets
into permanent darkness
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00:21:19,560 --> 00:21:22,000
beyond the reach of human divers.
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00:21:24,320 --> 00:21:28,320
Until now, no-one has seen
what lives down there.
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00:21:31,600 --> 00:21:36,840
A remote-controlled sub,
armed with camera, lights
and fish bait,
185
00:21:36,840 --> 00:21:40,800
provides the first glimpse
of what lies below.
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00:21:48,720 --> 00:21:53,720
Over 100m down, the fish bait
attracts deepwater cichlids...
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00:21:55,760 --> 00:21:58,960
..but their teeth can't get through
its armoured skin.
188
00:22:09,160 --> 00:22:13,120
Attracted by the smell of food -
a lake crab.
189
00:22:22,160 --> 00:22:26,080
In the background,
a short-bodied synodontis catfish
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00:22:26,080 --> 00:22:29,040
uses its whiskers
to investigate the bait.
191
00:22:34,520 --> 00:22:37,720
Now it's the turn of bathyclarias,
192
00:22:37,720 --> 00:22:41,840
a deepwater catfish,
filmed here for the first time.
193
00:22:45,000 --> 00:22:48,560
At this depth,
the fish bait provides a rare treat.
194
00:22:48,560 --> 00:22:50,680
The catfish is frantic to feed.
195
00:22:58,440 --> 00:23:02,520
As the smell of dead fish
spreads along the lake bed,
196
00:23:02,520 --> 00:23:05,200
more crabs are drawn to the scene.
197
00:23:09,680 --> 00:23:16,120
Eventually the crabs close ranks,
forming a barricade of legs and
claws...
198
00:23:18,400 --> 00:23:21,560
..claiming the fish
exclusively for themselves.
199
00:23:27,720 --> 00:23:31,200
Who would have guessed that
the Great Rift's lake depths
200
00:23:31,200 --> 00:23:33,960
are ruled by scuttling crustaceans?
201
00:23:35,040 --> 00:23:37,520
And what else could be down here?
202
00:23:43,400 --> 00:23:49,720
Catfish and crabs are only minor
players in the Rift's
freshwater economy.
203
00:23:49,720 --> 00:23:53,720
But there's another resident
of Lake Malawi
that plays a major role
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00:23:53,720 --> 00:23:56,200
in the fortunes of the entire region.
205
00:24:00,400 --> 00:24:05,760
A few days after each new moon
during the northern winter months,
206
00:24:05,760 --> 00:24:10,400
strange tornado-like clouds
condense over the lake.
207
00:24:18,520 --> 00:24:21,840
The phenomenon happens
during periods of calm weather,
208
00:24:21,840 --> 00:24:26,480
allowing the fragile spirals
to build hundreds of metres high.
209
00:24:34,160 --> 00:24:39,400
They consist of vast numbers
of tiny midges.
210
00:24:40,480 --> 00:24:43,720
There may be more midges
in a single cloud
211
00:24:43,720 --> 00:24:47,040
than there are humans on earth.
212
00:24:47,040 --> 00:24:52,040
All are driven by a single purpose -
to breed.
213
00:24:53,120 --> 00:24:58,160
Absorbed in their dance,
the midge clouds drift towards land.
214
00:24:58,160 --> 00:25:00,880
HIGH-PITCHED BUZZING
215
00:25:22,120 --> 00:25:27,840
Plants along the shore provide
a resting place after hours
of constant flight.
216
00:25:27,840 --> 00:25:32,280
But the vegetation harbours enemies.
217
00:25:35,880 --> 00:25:39,760
Spiders live along the lake margins
in huge mixed colonies.
218
00:25:43,440 --> 00:25:45,840
Some trap the midges in sticky webs.
219
00:25:47,320 --> 00:25:51,960
Others use goggle eyes
to stalk their quarry,
220
00:25:51,960 --> 00:25:54,480
pouncing like miniature tigers.
221
00:26:06,200 --> 00:26:10,080
In spite of countless casualties
along the way,
222
00:26:10,080 --> 00:26:14,320
the majority of the insects
eventually return to the lake
223
00:26:14,320 --> 00:26:16,360
to fulfil their destiny.
224
00:26:20,560 --> 00:26:24,880
The females lay their eggs
on the water surface.
225
00:26:24,880 --> 00:26:27,560
Then they die.
226
00:26:37,080 --> 00:26:38,720
The eggs sink...
227
00:26:41,000 --> 00:26:44,000
..and hatch into
translucent aquatic larvae -
228
00:26:44,000 --> 00:26:48,120
tiny predators which specialise
in feeding on lake plankton.
229
00:26:51,680 --> 00:26:55,960
Enriched with minerals
from the surrounding volcanic rocks,
230
00:26:55,960 --> 00:26:59,640
Lake Malawi's waters
support an abundance of plankton,
231
00:26:59,640 --> 00:27:03,840
which is why the midges are here
in such spectacular numbers.
232
00:27:08,160 --> 00:27:11,200
But the story doesn't end here.
233
00:27:14,840 --> 00:27:18,680
Sardine-like usipa
are voracious predators of midges.
234
00:27:18,680 --> 00:27:21,400
And these unassuming little fish
235
00:27:21,400 --> 00:27:25,840
are the key to one last link
in this amazing food chain.
236
00:27:40,040 --> 00:27:43,880
All around the lake,
fishermen are launching their dugouts
237
00:27:43,880 --> 00:27:46,520
in anticipation of a nocturnal
uprising.
238
00:27:51,200 --> 00:27:54,400
Usipa fishing takes place
at the new moon,
239
00:27:54,400 --> 00:27:58,680
when lamps are the only source
of light on the lake.
240
00:28:10,120 --> 00:28:12,840
MEN CONVERSE IN LOCAL LANGUAGE
241
00:28:13,920 --> 00:28:19,640
Divided between the two larger boats,
the net is paid out in a circle.
242
00:28:26,760 --> 00:28:31,720
At the centre, the lamp-bearing boats
draw up the fish to the surface
243
00:28:31,720 --> 00:28:34,880
like moths to a flame.
244
00:28:44,800 --> 00:28:49,280
With the bottom rope pulled tight,
the trap is sealed.
245
00:29:12,280 --> 00:29:16,680
Each haul may yield
just a few kilos of sardines,
246
00:29:16,680 --> 00:29:20,360
but the fishermen will land
over a dozen catches before dawn.
247
00:29:28,120 --> 00:29:30,320
MEN CONVERSE IN LOCAL LANGUAGE
248
00:29:30,320 --> 00:29:32,360
On an island close
to the fishing grounds,
249
00:29:32,360 --> 00:29:37,000
the fishermen grab some breakfast
before heading for home.
250
00:29:51,560 --> 00:29:54,080
ENGINE REVS
251
00:30:03,480 --> 00:30:08,480
At 2m long, the Nile monitor
is Africa's largest lizard -
252
00:30:08,480 --> 00:30:14,040
an ambush predator armed with
raking claws and powerful jaws.
253
00:30:14,040 --> 00:30:18,600
But why bother to hunt
when there's free food on offer?
254
00:30:36,880 --> 00:30:38,720
HISSES FIERCELY
255
00:30:53,560 --> 00:30:58,080
As the fishing boats near the shore,
a crowd gathers to meet them.
256
00:30:58,080 --> 00:31:01,400
PEOPLE CONVERSE IN LOCAL LANGUAGE
257
00:31:06,200 --> 00:31:11,280
In Malawi's hot climate, it's hard
to get fresh fish to distant markets,
258
00:31:11,280 --> 00:31:14,520
so most is spread out to dry in the
sun.
259
00:31:17,000 --> 00:31:21,160
Like this, they will keep for weeks
or even months.
260
00:31:24,760 --> 00:31:29,360
Astonishingly, these tiny usipa
provide essential protein
261
00:31:29,360 --> 00:31:34,440
for around 20 million people
in countries bordering the lake...
262
00:31:35,480 --> 00:31:40,720
..and all this vast bounty
originates from tiny fluttering
midges.
263
00:31:50,920 --> 00:31:56,160
From Lake Malawi, the Shire River
flows into the mighty Zambezi,
264
00:31:56,160 --> 00:31:59,560
which marks the southern limit
of the African rift system.
265
00:32:06,320 --> 00:32:08,400
Upstream, the Zambezi
266
00:32:08,400 --> 00:32:11,800
slices through the volcanic rocks
of the Tonga Plateau
267
00:32:11,800 --> 00:32:16,080
to crash down into
the narrow Batoka Gorge.
268
00:32:33,920 --> 00:32:35,800
More than a mile wide,
269
00:32:35,800 --> 00:32:41,080
with up to 10,000 tonnes of water
pouring over its lip every second,
270
00:32:41,080 --> 00:32:44,360
this is the world's largest
waterfall.
271
00:33:07,680 --> 00:33:10,920
Its local name, Mosi-oa-Tunya,
272
00:33:10,920 --> 00:33:14,760
translates as the
"Smoke That Thunders".
273
00:33:21,080 --> 00:33:28,000
In 1855, David Livingstone
renamed them Victoria Falls
274
00:33:28,000 --> 00:33:30,400
in honour of his queen.
275
00:33:49,760 --> 00:33:55,600
A thousand miles to the north-east,
the Rift has another
quite distinct arm.
276
00:33:56,640 --> 00:33:58,760
Here lie lakes very different
277
00:33:58,760 --> 00:34:02,120
from the vast inland seas
of the Western Rift,
278
00:34:02,120 --> 00:34:04,920
lakes that are hostile to life.
279
00:34:08,240 --> 00:34:12,680
This is Lake Natron
in northern Tanzania,
280
00:34:12,680 --> 00:34:16,120
sometimes known
as the Lake of Death.
281
00:34:19,120 --> 00:34:21,600
Countless centuries of evaporation
282
00:34:21,600 --> 00:34:26,520
have concentrated volcanic minerals
in its strangely coloured waters
283
00:34:26,520 --> 00:34:31,560
to the point
where they are so caustic
they can dissolve human skin.
284
00:34:33,400 --> 00:34:35,800
However, there is one animal
285
00:34:35,800 --> 00:34:39,760
that seems immune to this
cocktail of corrosive chemicals.
286
00:34:48,440 --> 00:34:53,320
Each year, huge flocks of flamingos
converge on Lake Natron.
287
00:34:58,400 --> 00:34:59,920
In the shallows,
288
00:34:59,920 --> 00:35:03,240
the birds demonstrate
their unique feeding technique,
289
00:35:03,240 --> 00:35:07,320
pumping water through
hair-fringed channels in their beak
290
00:35:07,320 --> 00:35:10,840
to extract micro-organisms
called cyanobacteria
291
00:35:10,840 --> 00:35:15,240
which flourish in the lake's
peculiar mineral cocktail.
292
00:35:17,680 --> 00:35:22,680
The cyanobacteria contain a pigment
which colours the birds' feathers.
293
00:35:26,360 --> 00:35:30,240
Adult flamingos only choose mates
with colourful plumage,
294
00:35:30,240 --> 00:35:31,920
so the survival of their species
295
00:35:31,920 --> 00:35:36,960
is linked to the peculiar chemistry
of the rift's volcanic lakes.
296
00:35:46,720 --> 00:35:51,000
The flamingos are able to
wade around in the caustic waters
297
00:35:51,000 --> 00:35:54,440
because their legs are protected
by resistant scales.
298
00:36:03,960 --> 00:36:09,200
In neighbouring Lake Magadi,
life faces an even tougher challenge.
299
00:36:12,520 --> 00:36:14,560
Fed by volcanic springs,
300
00:36:14,560 --> 00:36:17,200
Magadi's waters are not only caustic
301
00:36:17,200 --> 00:36:21,040
but in places they're hot enough
to poach an egg.
302
00:36:24,440 --> 00:36:28,080
Amazingly, there's a creature
that's able to survive
303
00:36:28,080 --> 00:36:30,440
completely submerged
in this deadly brew.
304
00:36:35,280 --> 00:36:38,720
It's a little fish
known as the alkaline tilapia.
305
00:36:39,760 --> 00:36:43,000
And it's made its home
in the most extreme environment
306
00:36:43,000 --> 00:36:45,520
in which fish life
has ever been recorded.
307
00:36:51,840 --> 00:36:56,800
The algae on which the tilapia feed
grow best in the volcanic springs.
308
00:36:59,840 --> 00:37:03,680
So each little fish
faces an agonising choice -
309
00:37:03,680 --> 00:37:06,120
it can stay safe but hungry
310
00:37:06,120 --> 00:37:10,400
or it can risk life and fin
in a dangerous game of chicken,
311
00:37:10,400 --> 00:37:15,400
dashing into the hot spring,
snatching a mouthful of algae,
312
00:37:15,400 --> 00:37:19,760
then dashing back into cooler water
before it cooks.
313
00:37:25,080 --> 00:37:29,280
Most of the fish are content
to hang around the margins
of the spring
314
00:37:29,280 --> 00:37:35,200
but there's always one adventurous
or extra-hungry individual
315
00:37:35,200 --> 00:37:37,400
prepared to go for the jackpot.
316
00:37:38,800 --> 00:37:44,160
There's no question of the rewards,
but it's a hugely risky game.
317
00:38:06,120 --> 00:38:09,360
140 miles further north
along the Great Rift,
318
00:38:09,360 --> 00:38:13,360
Lake Bogoria is even more
volcanically active.
319
00:38:14,520 --> 00:38:20,320
Its shores are fringed
by steam vents and gushing geysers.
320
00:38:28,960 --> 00:38:33,880
As with Lake Natron,
volcanic minerals
enrich Bogoria's waters,
321
00:38:33,880 --> 00:38:39,360
providing an ideal environment
for even larger flocks of flamingos.
322
00:38:42,840 --> 00:38:47,160
At the height of the season,
there may be over a million birds.
323
00:38:47,160 --> 00:38:50,120
FLAMINGOS SQUAWK
324
00:39:55,400 --> 00:40:00,880
Flamingos are famous for their
extraordinary courtship rituals.
325
00:40:19,320 --> 00:40:20,920
Flamingo migration
326
00:40:20,920 --> 00:40:23,800
is one of the Great Rift's
most enduring mysteries.
327
00:40:25,520 --> 00:40:31,080
They appear and disappear
unpredictably in response to
fluctuating water levels.
328
00:40:49,160 --> 00:40:51,640
Continuing northwards
up the Great Rift,
329
00:40:51,640 --> 00:40:54,720
a series of lakes
stretch up through Ethiopia
330
00:40:54,720 --> 00:40:58,840
to Lake Assal,
the saltiest water body on Earth.
331
00:41:05,400 --> 00:41:11,040
Lake Assal lies 153m below sea level,
332
00:41:11,040 --> 00:41:15,120
making this the Rift's, and Africa's,
lowest point.
333
00:41:20,680 --> 00:41:24,320
The lake's waters
are fed by seawater springs
334
00:41:24,320 --> 00:41:29,240
which evaporate in the blistering
heat to leave huge salt pans.
335
00:41:36,920 --> 00:41:42,520
Beneath its glistening crust,
the lake plunges
over half a mile deep.
336
00:41:42,520 --> 00:41:48,280
But it's not filled with water. It's
solid salt all the way to the
bottom...
337
00:41:49,320 --> 00:41:53,520
..the result of hundreds of
thousands of years of evaporation.
338
00:42:02,560 --> 00:42:06,360
Immediately north of Lake Assal
is the Mandab Strait,
339
00:42:06,360 --> 00:42:09,680
known to Arabs as the Gate of Tears.
340
00:42:10,720 --> 00:42:13,560
It separates Africa from Arabia
341
00:42:13,560 --> 00:42:17,320
and marks the junction
of the Indian Ocean and the Red Sea.
342
00:42:19,640 --> 00:42:23,200
Here at Ghoubbet el Kharab,
barren lava flows
343
00:42:23,200 --> 00:42:26,880
mark the point at which
the Great Rift finally meets the sea
344
00:42:26,880 --> 00:42:29,520
and enters another world.
345
00:42:34,440 --> 00:42:40,480
Offshore, the sea floor drops away
in spectacular underwater cliffs -
346
00:42:40,480 --> 00:42:43,720
a submarine equivalent
of the Great Rift Valley.
347
00:42:55,720 --> 00:43:00,040
Strong currents make these walls
ideal for filter-feeding corals
348
00:43:00,040 --> 00:43:05,040
which provide a home for more
than a thousand species of fish,
349
00:43:05,040 --> 00:43:09,160
including over a hundred
found nowhere else.
350
00:43:31,280 --> 00:43:33,040
In the surface waters,
351
00:43:33,040 --> 00:43:36,280
a school of Indian mackerel
trawl open-mouthed
352
00:43:36,280 --> 00:43:38,160
through the rich plankton.
353
00:43:45,080 --> 00:43:47,920
There are places off the Djibouti
coast
354
00:43:47,920 --> 00:43:52,040
where the Great Rift
plunges to unknown depths.
355
00:43:55,560 --> 00:43:59,680
Exploring down here
takes specialised equipment.
356
00:44:56,560 --> 00:44:58,280
This is the first time
357
00:44:58,280 --> 00:45:02,640
light has shone in this corner
of the Great Rift's ocean depths.
358
00:45:05,360 --> 00:45:10,520
Some of the creatures down here
may be completely unknown to science.
359
00:45:30,320 --> 00:45:31,920
From the dark depths of the trench,
360
00:45:31,920 --> 00:45:35,320
nutrient-rich currents
well up towards the surface...
361
00:45:37,960 --> 00:45:42,680
..creating a plankton bloom
that attracts ocean giants.
362
00:45:55,920 --> 00:45:58,800
Whale sharks
are the largest fish on Earth,
363
00:45:58,800 --> 00:46:02,000
growing over 15m long.
364
00:46:13,640 --> 00:46:17,440
Trawling the oceans
with mouths agape,
365
00:46:17,440 --> 00:46:21,360
their sieve-like gills sift out
the plankton and small fish
366
00:46:21,360 --> 00:46:23,320
on which they feed.
367
00:46:38,440 --> 00:46:42,160
Djibouti is famous for this
annual gathering of whale sharks
368
00:46:42,160 --> 00:46:46,080
which migrate here each winter
from far across the Indian Ocean
369
00:46:46,080 --> 00:46:50,520
to take advantage of
the Great Rift's fertile waters.
370
00:47:00,880 --> 00:47:04,320
This extraordinary event
owes its existence
371
00:47:04,320 --> 00:47:07,760
to volcanic forces
deep beneath the Red Sea floor.
372
00:47:13,880 --> 00:47:19,040
Those forces are tearing
Africa and Arabia apart.
373
00:47:21,240 --> 00:47:23,640
As the Great Rift lengthens
and widens,
374
00:47:23,640 --> 00:47:27,840
the Red Sea will eventually
join up with the Mediterranean,
375
00:47:27,840 --> 00:47:31,360
making Africa
the world's largest island.
376
00:47:33,920 --> 00:47:38,320
Meanwhile, the East African Rift
continues to spread ever wider,
377
00:47:38,320 --> 00:47:43,760
gradually filling with lava and ash
from the surrounding volcanoes.
378
00:47:47,200 --> 00:47:50,240
And where seasonal rains
refresh the landscape,
379
00:47:50,240 --> 00:47:53,520
the Great Rift's lakes and rivers
380
00:47:53,520 --> 00:47:56,520
will continue to sustain
an abundance of wildlife.
381
00:47:57,920 --> 00:48:00,680
HIPPOS GRUNT
382
00:48:27,880 --> 00:48:30,480
For this episode,
the crew discovered
383
00:48:30,480 --> 00:48:32,080
how harsh the Great Rift can be.
384
00:48:32,080 --> 00:48:34,920
They call this place
"hell on Earth",
385
00:48:34,920 --> 00:48:37,720
so I guess that's why they send
the French Foreign Legion
here to train.
386
00:48:37,840 --> 00:48:40,560
It's a pretty nasty place.
387
00:48:42,040 --> 00:48:45,000
Cameraman Gavin Newman
and director Ingrid Kvale
388
00:48:45,000 --> 00:48:47,440
found themselves in one of
the Rift's hot spots.
389
00:48:47,440 --> 00:48:48,560
Ow!
390
00:48:48,560 --> 00:48:51,080
Seems to be the windiest place
in Africa
391
00:48:51,080 --> 00:48:53,800
and I'm having to hold on
to the tripod for dear life.
392
00:48:56,760 --> 00:48:58,480
So on this side I'm in Africa,
393
00:48:58,480 --> 00:49:01,360
and if I just hop across here,
I'm now in Asia.
394
00:49:01,360 --> 00:49:03,720
No, I'm not. I'm the other way
round. Hang on.
395
00:49:03,720 --> 00:49:04,840
Damn!
396
00:49:06,080 --> 00:49:08,880
There's one here. Here, here, here.
Right beside us.
397
00:49:10,480 --> 00:49:13,920
The team came here to film
what lives in the Great Rift,
398
00:49:13,920 --> 00:49:15,960
where it plunges beneath the sea.
399
00:49:17,800 --> 00:49:19,400
Gavin has brought
his own specialist kit
400
00:49:19,400 --> 00:49:22,480
out here to Djibouti
in the southern Red Sea.
401
00:49:22,480 --> 00:49:25,400
Fingers crossed everything
does what it says on the tin.
402
00:49:30,760 --> 00:49:32,720
Gavin has spent the last five years
403
00:49:32,720 --> 00:49:36,680
perfecting a remotely operated
camera system or ROV
404
00:49:36,680 --> 00:49:39,920
to film underwater
much deeper than divers can.
405
00:49:39,920 --> 00:49:42,800
This is its maiden voyage
406
00:49:42,800 --> 00:49:46,480
and everyone is understandably
nervous.
407
00:49:46,480 --> 00:49:49,280
You don't want to make a mistake
cos you'll pay for it later on.
408
00:49:52,520 --> 00:49:55,360
I'm a bit of a toy freak at heart.
409
00:49:55,360 --> 00:49:57,000
Lots and lots of wires,
unfortunately.
410
00:49:59,840 --> 00:50:04,240
Vincente, the boat's dive master,
can't wait to put it in the water.
411
00:50:05,320 --> 00:50:09,440
I think we're going to see
landscapes, OK, seascapes,
412
00:50:09,440 --> 00:50:11,200
that nobody has seen before.
413
00:50:12,400 --> 00:50:16,720
Captain Amin is intrigued by the
machine Gavin has named Nemo.
414
00:50:17,800 --> 00:50:20,360
How deep you can go with this?
415
00:50:20,360 --> 00:50:23,200
This can go to about 300m.
416
00:50:23,200 --> 00:50:25,040
Whoa.
Yeah.
417
00:50:25,040 --> 00:50:28,400
300m!
A lot deeper than me.
418
00:50:30,320 --> 00:50:34,760
Gavin finally fits the ROV
with its video camera.
419
00:50:34,760 --> 00:50:37,120
We'll just give Nemo his eyes.
420
00:50:37,120 --> 00:50:39,600
The rest of it's a bit of a taxi
for this camera system.
421
00:50:39,600 --> 00:50:42,680
All you have to do now
is throw it in the water.
422
00:50:42,680 --> 00:50:45,560
Tomorrow is Nemo's big day
423
00:50:45,560 --> 00:50:48,600
and the culmination
of Gavin's labour of love.
424
00:50:55,240 --> 00:50:59,120
At first light, Gavin and the crew
head out to the Ghoubbet el Kharab
425
00:50:59,120 --> 00:51:00,440
or Devil's Cauldron.
426
00:51:00,440 --> 00:51:05,040
Here, the Great Rift plunges
deep below sea level.
427
00:51:08,480 --> 00:51:11,320
We're at the edge
of the wall right now.
428
00:51:11,320 --> 00:51:13,280
OK. So here it's a good place.
429
00:51:13,280 --> 00:51:17,840
Jacques Cousteau is said to have come
here in search of sea monsters.
430
00:51:17,840 --> 00:51:20,440
It's a place full of legends -
431
00:51:20,440 --> 00:51:23,120
legends about spirits
living in the small cracks
432
00:51:23,120 --> 00:51:24,640
that they have in the rocks.
433
00:51:24,640 --> 00:51:28,920
When Cousteau came here,
they put a cage with a camel inside.
434
00:51:28,920 --> 00:51:35,120
They put it down and when they
took it out, the cage was
completely crushed,
435
00:51:35,120 --> 00:51:37,120
no camel inside.
436
00:51:37,120 --> 00:51:38,760
Did Cousteau say what happened
to the camel?
437
00:51:38,760 --> 00:51:40,440
No explanation.
438
00:51:40,440 --> 00:51:43,120
So you think this is a good place
to dive, then?
439
00:51:43,120 --> 00:51:45,120
We have to try it.
440
00:51:47,320 --> 00:51:50,680
It's time for Nemo to get wet.
441
00:51:50,680 --> 00:51:53,440
INGRID: Are you pleased
with that launch, Gavin?
442
00:51:53,440 --> 00:51:56,920
It was a little bit chaotic
but let's just get in and see
how it's floating.
443
00:51:56,920 --> 00:52:00,600
It's my baby.
Oh, it's your baby.
444
00:52:02,720 --> 00:52:05,400
It's looking good.
445
00:52:05,400 --> 00:52:08,360
Nemo's ready to start exploring
the depths of the crack.
446
00:52:14,120 --> 00:52:16,320
Go, go, go.
447
00:52:16,320 --> 00:52:19,200
Wow.
OK. See where we are.
448
00:52:22,360 --> 00:52:23,840
So far, so good.
449
00:52:23,840 --> 00:52:26,680
It's finally underwater
and it's finally filming images.
450
00:52:31,600 --> 00:52:33,240
The beauty of what we're doing
451
00:52:33,240 --> 00:52:35,680
is that we have no idea
what we're going to find anyway.
452
00:52:37,040 --> 00:52:40,360
It could be we find a huge
rift crack
453
00:52:40,360 --> 00:52:42,520
with all sorts of interesting
marine life
454
00:52:42,520 --> 00:52:44,160
that nobody had any idea
was down there.
455
00:52:51,080 --> 00:52:54,320
But Gavin senses
things aren't quite right.
456
00:52:54,320 --> 00:52:56,840
OK. I think they're pulling me
on the cable.
457
00:52:56,840 --> 00:52:58,920
Can you check what
they're doing with the cable?
458
00:52:58,920 --> 00:53:00,960
They should still be feeding cable.
459
00:53:00,960 --> 00:53:02,920
VINCENTE: Yeah,
they are feeding you cable.
460
00:53:02,920 --> 00:53:06,440
In that case, we've got a problem
and we're stuck.
461
00:53:07,520 --> 00:53:09,120
At the moment,
we might have the cable
462
00:53:09,120 --> 00:53:11,560
around some rocks on the bottom,
but I'm not entirely sure.
463
00:53:13,360 --> 00:53:15,240
Gavin's suspicions are confirmed.
464
00:53:15,240 --> 00:53:17,680
The cable is entangled
around some rocks.
465
00:53:19,840 --> 00:53:23,600
Dropping the ROV
isn't as straightforward
as we thought it'd be.
466
00:53:23,600 --> 00:53:27,640
There's lots of gnarly bits
of volcanic formation
467
00:53:27,640 --> 00:53:31,280
that could damage
or even destroy the ROV.
468
00:53:31,280 --> 00:53:32,920
Gavin, what do you think?
469
00:53:32,920 --> 00:53:36,680
Yeah, I'm just a little bit busy
right now.
470
00:53:36,680 --> 00:53:41,320
Vincente dives in immediately
to sort the problem.
471
00:53:41,320 --> 00:53:43,560
Bring it up. Yeah, please.
OK, hey!
472
00:53:43,560 --> 00:53:48,360
Feed cable out.
Cable out, yes, into the water.
473
00:53:48,360 --> 00:53:51,160
Stop. Stop.
474
00:53:51,160 --> 00:53:53,600
This is not a place to be trifled
with.
475
00:53:57,280 --> 00:53:59,200
There we go. Whoa. That's better.
476
00:53:59,200 --> 00:54:02,960
OK. We're now looking at
the very mouth of the crack here.
477
00:54:06,240 --> 00:54:08,800
There's an amazing amount
of marine life down here.
478
00:54:08,800 --> 00:54:11,120
It's very diverse as well.
479
00:54:11,120 --> 00:54:12,920
There's soft corals and hard
corals...
480
00:54:15,000 --> 00:54:17,000
..and a lot of fish.
481
00:54:17,000 --> 00:54:18,400
There's three cuttlefish here.
482
00:54:21,080 --> 00:54:23,560
I think we've got
a discarded boat's anchor
483
00:54:23,560 --> 00:54:26,120
that they've obviously lost in the
crack.
484
00:54:27,200 --> 00:54:30,200
A nice bunch of butterfly fish
hiding around it.
485
00:54:31,720 --> 00:54:34,480
Maybe it's Cousteau's anchor -
who knows?
486
00:54:36,000 --> 00:54:38,480
There's several sharks around.
487
00:54:38,480 --> 00:54:43,480
He was going towards the Rift.
Towards the Rift. OK.
488
00:54:43,480 --> 00:54:49,080
So if you see something big...
We know what it is.
489
00:54:49,080 --> 00:54:53,640
Whale sharks have come here to feed
on the plankton at shallow depths.
490
00:54:53,640 --> 00:54:55,520
This is not a job for Nemo.
491
00:54:57,840 --> 00:55:01,760
Gavin can't miss out on a chance
to film the world's biggest fish
492
00:55:01,760 --> 00:55:04,560
and puts the ROV filming on hold.
493
00:55:12,040 --> 00:55:14,280
It's coming towards you.
It's there.
494
00:55:14,280 --> 00:55:17,720
Up there, up there, up there,
up there!
495
00:55:26,040 --> 00:55:28,640
Not one, not two - three, four.
496
00:55:28,640 --> 00:55:33,360
Whoo! Oh, there's one
here, here, here, right beside us.
497
00:55:38,840 --> 00:55:40,560
Go!
I'm trying!
498
00:55:45,800 --> 00:55:47,960
INGRID: What's happening?
It's quite big.
499
00:55:47,960 --> 00:55:50,440
We've got a bunch of about
five whale sharks right ahead of us.
500
00:55:56,120 --> 00:55:59,600
I think I got five in one shot
and you just kept turning around
501
00:55:59,600 --> 00:56:01,280
and there was another one
right behind you.
502
00:56:01,280 --> 00:56:03,520
There is two swimming side by side.
503
00:56:03,520 --> 00:56:08,520
Maybe this is a mating ritual.
504
00:56:14,720 --> 00:56:19,840
After successfully filming whale
sharks, Gavin's back with Nemo.
505
00:56:19,840 --> 00:56:24,560
He's determined to take the ROV
deeper than anyone has been before.
506
00:56:26,440 --> 00:56:31,680
Putting ROVs down holes is never
considered to be a great move,
507
00:56:31,680 --> 00:56:38,920
but obviously you have to take risks
to get the sort of images
that we want.
508
00:56:38,920 --> 00:56:41,600
Just got to be careful
I don't get stuck here.
509
00:56:43,040 --> 00:56:45,240
Aah!
510
00:56:45,240 --> 00:56:47,960
Didn't really want it to end up
being Nemo's tomb.
511
00:56:47,960 --> 00:56:51,560
INGRID: Could this worry
be giving you grey hair?
512
00:56:51,560 --> 00:56:55,440
Yes. I think it's ageing me
prematurely, definitely.
513
00:56:57,080 --> 00:57:00,520
You can see the rift carries on
down there, way below us.
514
00:57:01,800 --> 00:57:04,600
Ah! You've gone quite far
if you're down in the middle.
515
00:57:04,600 --> 00:57:05,600
Yep.
516
00:57:06,960 --> 00:57:09,240
Just got to hope
that I can manoeuvre myself out.
517
00:57:09,240 --> 00:57:14,000
Ooh, there's a nice little moray eel
on the wall. It's beautiful.
518
00:57:15,800 --> 00:57:19,080
If I turn the lights off altogether,
you'll see it's totally dark
down here.
519
00:57:20,160 --> 00:57:23,040
He wondered what happened
to the light.
520
00:57:24,880 --> 00:57:26,760
We're now heading down
deep in the crack here.
521
00:57:30,440 --> 00:57:33,000
It's like a sort of chasm
to the bottom of the world.
522
00:57:34,840 --> 00:57:37,600
So I'll pretty much guarantee you,
523
00:57:37,600 --> 00:57:42,160
80.3m is the deepest dive anyone
or anything has done
in the Ghoubbet.
524
00:57:46,440 --> 00:57:48,640
It's a very strange environment
down here
525
00:57:48,640 --> 00:57:50,800
because most of the creatures
that we're looking at
526
00:57:50,800 --> 00:57:52,520
probably never see light.
527
00:57:53,600 --> 00:57:56,000
Never really seen anything
like this before.
528
00:57:57,040 --> 00:58:00,240
Looks like lots of skeletal coral.
529
00:58:01,720 --> 00:58:03,800
Quite pretty. Do you know what that
is?
530
00:58:03,800 --> 00:58:04,800
This? Yes.
531
00:58:04,800 --> 00:58:05,840
No.
532
00:58:08,760 --> 00:58:12,960
Nemo's ROV technology
has finally revealed
533
00:58:12,960 --> 00:58:15,680
the strange yet beautiful
underwater realm
534
00:58:15,680 --> 00:58:19,320
that no human eyes
have ever seen before.
45914
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