Would you like to inspect the original subtitles? These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated:
1
00:00:01,000 --> 00:00:12,074
Subtitles by Essam Ali from Pakistan
essam_ari@yahoo.com
2
00:00:15,032 --> 00:00:25,014
Gods sentenced Sisyphus lift a huge stone on the top of the mountain, where this lump always raining down. They had reason to believe that there is no punishment worse than useless and hopeless labor.
3
00:00:25,314 --> 00:00:31,107
Albert Camus
"The Myth of Sisyphus"
00:00:31,100 --> 00:00:35,100
Subtitles by Essam Ali from Pakistan
essam_ari@yahoo.com
4
00:01:04,059 --> 00:01:07,035
Amazing climber. Great technique.
5
00:01:07,336 --> 00:01:11,290
Messner - is complex and difficult personality.
6
00:01:11,591 --> 00:01:13,919
Smart and fearless.
7
00:01:19,738 --> 00:01:29,880
We grew up in a valley surrounded by high mountains chain.
And we were wondering what is behind them.
8
00:01:29,978 --> 00:01:33,584
Reinhold Messner is the strongest climber
today.
9
00:01:33,585 --> 00:01:37,001
Weathered the storm at a temperature of -40 ° C.
10
00:01:39,964 --> 00:01:41,646
Incredibly expressive.
11
00:01:42,956 --> 00:01:52,932
We had no idea about the larger world and civilization.
Villnoss - a small rural hamlet.
12
00:01:57,551 --> 00:01:59,284
With big ambitions ...
13
00:02:01,490 --> 00:02:02,762
The only witness ...
14
00:02:03,040 --> 00:02:04,992
Does not rise above 8000!
15
00:02:06,937 --> 00:02:14,102
I constantly received the command "top", and never have
disobeyed, fostering a sense of resistance.
16
00:04:13,967 --> 00:04:18,894
My brother Gunther and I were very close,
because since childhood went together to the mountains.
17
00:04:19,195 --> 00:04:26,843
During the ascent you share your fears,
doubts, and, at the same euphoria.
18
00:04:27,144 --> 00:04:36,050
This is something that we strongly united for life.
19
00:04:36,805 --> 00:04:39,647
TRUST
20
00:04:46,911 --> 00:04:53,387
In 1965 we were the first in the Western Alps.
I knew only about the mountains in books.
21
00:04:53,688 --> 00:05:01,469
In Argentiere we felt pretty confident on ice.
But did not know how to be above 4000 meters.
22
00:05:01,770 --> 00:05:07,460
However, we moved to the north wall of Courtes.
And it passed, shrouded in fog.
23
00:05:16,022 --> 00:05:21,681
At the shelter doubted our success
but we did not care.
24
00:05:29,978 --> 00:05:33,766
Then we went to the north wall of the peak Triolet,
and also made it.
25
00:05:34,067 --> 00:05:40,965
Host shelter said: "You have a good speed.
You can climb the north face of Droites ".
26
00:05:41,266 --> 00:05:45,507
We were 19-20 years old, and we did not think
27
00:05:45,808 --> 00:05:51,565
at the time the wall of ice and rock
more difficult in the world..
28
00:05:51,866 --> 00:05:56,426
We would of course, but we were afraid.
Fear holds us together.
29
00:05:56,727 --> 00:06:01,551
Sooner or later, we would come up with this idea.
30
00:06:08,829 --> 00:06:10,597
It is time, I close.
31
00:06:18,066 --> 00:06:21,210
Reinhold, still there?
Take this bag.
32
00:06:26,184 --> 00:06:29,393
Our father was strict.
Perhaps a bit too harsh.
33
00:06:29,645 --> 00:06:36,672
And my mother did her best to
balance its severity sympathy
34
00:06:37,029 --> 00:06:46,116
its uncertainty, which can affect children
-
strong maternal love.
35
00:06:46,465 --> 00:06:49,429
We had 9 children, life was difficult.
36
00:06:49,776 --> 00:06:55,997
Are you kidding me?
Hi! I'm leaving. Take care of yourself. See you later.
37
00:06:57,735 --> 00:07:04,413
Home, his mother was just a source of warmth and comfort,
38
00:07:04,748 --> 00:07:12,194
and, unlike his father,
in a sense, in solidarity with the children.
39
00:07:13,000 --> 00:07:21,177
At the same time she had high hopes
towards children, and including Reinhold.
40
00:07:21,479 --> 00:07:26,221
So, for Reinhold it was very hard to
disappoint our mother.
41
00:07:27,271 --> 00:07:33,216
In children 6 children lived.
Overall life was in the kitchen.
42
00:07:33,588 --> 00:07:39,514
Near the mother was always crying baby.
In which case, the younger children ran to her.
43
00:07:39,840 --> 00:07:48,325
In communion we stuck
relatively strict rules in some way.
44
00:07:49,319 --> 00:07:56,248
I would say that we raised each other.
Senior educated younger.
45
00:07:56,552 --> 00:08:05,363
In this environment, children are trying to impose their views, find their own way.
46
00:08:05,647 --> 00:08:12,530
And I think that such conditions
determine who you will be in the future.
47
00:08:15,060 --> 00:08:21,066
During the summer parents rented alpine
pastures for a few weeks, it was a big success for us.
48
00:08:21,421 --> 00:08:28,067
Then we were 5-6 years
and for us it was a kind of vacation in the mountains.
49
00:08:28,378 --> 00:08:35,727
Something where the pastures lay large boulders,
which we could climb under the supervision of his father.
50
00:08:36,071 --> 00:08:40,289
He taught us to always use
3 points of contact when climbing a cliff.
51
00:08:42,525 --> 00:08:50,018
Upstairs you can freely walk and play.
And there were no rules.
52
00:08:52,364 --> 00:08:57,884
Downstairs there was a church in which we went
on Sundays. And the father-abbot.
53
00:08:58,223 --> 00:09:04,153
And, of course, our father became much
more bearable here than in the valley.
54
00:09:04,496 --> 00:09:08,749
Neighbors knew everything that happens in the area.
55
00:09:09,583 --> 00:09:14,996
Life in this small community,
seemed like a prison.
56
00:09:15,288 --> 00:09:18,236
Up here, it was the opposite - complete freedom.
57
00:09:19,671 --> 00:09:23,929
A basic principle of life - anarchy.
58
00:09:24,299 --> 00:09:27,499
REBELLION
59
00:09:34,684 --> 00:09:41,224
"When all the major peaks in the European Alps
were conquered by man
60
00:09:41,588 --> 00:09:46,598
his gaze upward,
61
00:09:46,947 --> 00:09:52,267
rushed to distant lands,
where giant mountains towering to the sky,
62
00:09:52,593 --> 00:09:56,057
reflecting the rays of the sun through the clouds.
63
00:09:56,380 --> 00:10:00,471
One of them was Albert Frederick Mummery.
64
00:10:00,769 --> 00:10:08,239
In 1895 he made the first attempt to
ascent Nanga Parbat.
65
00:10:08,604 --> 00:10:17,852
He died in an avalanche and became the first victim of this peak,
as well as the Himalayas. "
66
00:10:25,993 --> 00:10:27,793
Reinhold Reinhold, get up!
67
00:10:28,118 --> 00:10:32,764
My first ascent was the rise
the highest point of the array Geisler, 3025 meters.
68
00:10:33,086 --> 00:10:34,903
Dad waits.
69
00:10:37,456 --> 00:10:41,822
We had no idea what awaited us,
and that had to be done.
70
00:11:01,208 --> 00:11:05,364
I felt, at least concern.
My father wanted to go pretty big circle.
71
00:11:05,684 --> 00:11:11,075
Wait there.
Now right and continue along the path.
72
00:11:11,431 --> 00:11:17,939
At the time I was 5 years old,
and it was my biggest climbing,
73
00:11:18,091 --> 00:11:23,520
given the relationship between the boy and the mountain.
Everest, I was already an adult.
74
00:11:23,795 --> 00:11:31,092
Where the base camp is at 3300 meters below the summit,
and climbing takes place a few weeks or months.
75
00:11:31,787 --> 00:11:37,516
Wait, do not hurry. We have enough time.
Come with me.
76
00:11:38,503 --> 00:11:44,689
Father went ahead.
And I think that we were so relaxed.
77
00:11:46,422 --> 00:11:53,947
Left and right towering rock walls.
78
00:11:54,287 --> 00:11:57,070
It scared me at that moment.
79
00:12:00,433 --> 00:12:04,774
Now look carefully.
Helmut can help.
80
00:12:06,150 --> 00:12:13,569
In fact, I think
that for me (as the Eiger for Siegfried)
81
00:12:13,910 --> 00:12:21,441
it was a rite of passage -
Drag on a vast array of Geisler.
82
00:12:21,806 --> 00:12:26,533
"Drag" - it was just my case,
because I was afraid of heights.
83
00:12:26,833 --> 00:12:33,952
I realized that climbing - is not a hobby for me.
84
00:12:34,235 --> 00:12:37,636
Straight to the top. For Helmut.
85
00:12:39,542 --> 00:12:46,064
It was very difficult.
Of course, my father encouraged us when we started
complain.
86
00:12:57,156 --> 00:12:58,676
Next, Reinhold.
87
00:12:59,833 --> 00:13:03,748
I'd love to go off.
Understanding came much later.
88
00:13:05,075 --> 00:13:12,468
I was very proud. Maybe the people
who were at the top, clapped on the shoulder,
praised
89
00:13:12,751 --> 00:13:18,784
and marveled at the fact that children have climbed so high. But the most vivid memories of the panorama.
90
00:13:19,145 --> 00:13:23,692
We saw the Central Alps - mountains, glaciers and
deep valleys.
91
00:13:23,974 --> 00:13:26,874
The most impressive was the peak Sass Rigais.
92
00:13:27,246 --> 00:13:34,234
My father knew all the peaks in the Dolomites:
Sass, Marmolada, Civetta, Antelao.
93
00:13:41,621 --> 00:13:47,957
Photos of the Dolomites
cause I have childhood memories.
94
00:13:52,519 --> 00:13:58,104
After returning from the pasture, it was difficult
present, I was really there.
95
00:13:58,406 --> 00:14:04,046
I could not believe that so exalted.
96
00:14:10,508 --> 00:14:14,923
House we had an aviary, but the father he had never
engaged - this was 9 children.
97
00:14:15,244 --> 00:14:18,301
In total we had 500-600 birds.
98
00:14:18,627 --> 00:14:24,107
We had to carry food and water,
collect eggs and clean the gunk.
99
00:14:24,422 --> 00:14:28,322
And kill chickens, naturally.
100
00:14:28,616 --> 00:14:37,905
Over the weekend, we cleaned and sold 70-80 chickens.
101
00:14:39,014 --> 00:14:40,263
Gunther!
102
00:14:45,531 --> 00:14:52,373
At heart, my father was always afraid of defeat.
103
00:14:52,688 --> 00:14:58,620
His impotence or the inability to do anything
104
00:14:59,828 --> 00:15:04,764
always took the form of some kind of aggression.
105
00:15:07,254 --> 00:15:15,311
He beat Gunther, and it brought us together.
We kids thought it unfair.
106
00:15:18,387 --> 00:15:21,185
And it really was not fair.
What can I say?
107
00:15:23,185 --> 00:15:28,703
This story is an example of our upbringing.
108
00:15:29,050 --> 00:15:34,170
So we were growing up, becoming more motivated.
109
00:15:34,525 --> 00:15:38,937
Father was a man ...
110
00:15:40,992 --> 00:15:46,592
cool but a little and affectionate.
And in some ways, even humorous.
111
00:15:46,911 --> 00:15:52,075
But he could not afford
112
00:15:52,390 --> 00:15:58,912
have a sense of tenderness.
At least, not in relation to children.
113
00:15:59,242 --> 00:16:03,500
Father ... who punishes and criticizes.
114
00:16:04,147 --> 00:16:11,981
Father, who, unable to "give."
115
00:16:13,048 --> 00:16:18,887
And, of course, the father,
which is always the opposite view.
116
00:16:19,175 --> 00:16:24,938
We early manhood.
Ability to self-defense and resistance
117
00:16:25,276 --> 00:16:30,115
became part of my identity for a lifetime.
118
00:16:30,435 --> 00:16:37,210
That is, if you feel resistance,
then try to fight it. In the mountains the same thing.
119
00:16:41,445 --> 00:16:46,661
It is clear that the mountains for me was a chance for salvation.
120
00:16:46,993 --> 00:16:54,263
Then these rocks, especially in the Dolomites Geisler, become for us a place where you can escape for a while.
121
00:17:24,039 --> 00:17:29,326
When we were 12-13 years old,
most of the year we spent in a boarding school.
122
00:17:29,626 --> 00:17:36,290
At least 9 months,
we held in the Episcopal Seminary in Tyrol
123
00:17:36,581 --> 00:17:39,499
preparing to become priests.
124
00:17:39,803 --> 00:17:46,367
Comes to us mainly mother.
Father seems to come once.
125
00:17:46,693 --> 00:17:53,449
Of course, was very restrictive
and appropriately oriented discipline.
126
00:17:53,556 --> 00:17:59,193
It may thus be
father tried to increase its influence on us.
127
00:17:59,518 --> 00:18:03,378
I can only say that it was very difficult,
128
00:18:03,741 --> 00:18:08,882
I and all the forces opposed to the regime,
129
00:18:09,216 --> 00:18:15,040
this form of the destruction of the individual,
destruction of individuality.
130
00:18:15,375 --> 00:18:21,119
I did not like to talk about their adventures at school,
131
00:18:21,439 --> 00:18:27,203
because they are different things. A completely different world.
132
00:18:31,109 --> 00:18:36,793
Once I climbed the north face of the Matterhorn.
It took longer than planned.
133
00:18:39,522 --> 00:18:47,231
When I walked into the classroom, a teacher of German, who had a liking to me,
134
00:18:47,524 --> 00:18:54,040
came up and asked what I was doing.
Although everyone knew which route I climbed.
135
00:18:57,677 --> 00:19:02,353
He wanted to do me a favor with his authority.
136
00:19:02,716 --> 00:19:07,233
I did not say anything.
Then he wrote something in my notebook.
137
00:19:07,514 --> 00:19:11,565
Get her back, I went to his place,
signed and returned to him.
138
00:19:11,844 --> 00:19:18,405
The teacher was furious and vowed
I do not pass the exam.
139
00:19:23,409 --> 00:19:29,551
I remember that my father strongly rebuked Reinhold.
140
00:19:29,910 --> 00:19:36,866
I remember that because of Reinhold's anger or despair
141
00:19:37,144 --> 00:19:45,843
crying in the kitchen while her mother tried to reassure her father.
142
00:19:46,115 --> 00:19:51,300
I was sure that pass the exam. It was autumn.
143
00:19:51,614 --> 00:19:54,564
Shortly before the new exam
we went to a different route.
144
00:19:54,847 --> 00:20:00,937
We were not lucky - there was too much ice.
And instead of one day climbing took two full days.
145
00:20:01,220 --> 00:20:08,167
Returned the night before the exam.
Sore fingers, the skin on the tips erased.
146
00:20:08,449 --> 00:20:12,842
The teacher said: "You climb again!"
147
00:20:13,142 --> 00:20:17,284
I replied, "And why not?
This is only my problem and draw more. "
148
00:20:17,584 --> 00:20:19,990
Then I called the director, and I said to him:
149
00:20:20,283 --> 00:20:26,004
"I do not need this school. I pass the exam
independently.
And if you do not succeed, try again ".
150
00:20:26,311 --> 00:20:32,709
My father was, I would say, in a rage.
151
00:20:33,013 --> 00:20:37,646
He wanted to humiliate Reinhold.
152
00:20:37,954 --> 00:20:44,741
And I have the impression that if it is
succeeded.
153
00:20:45,100 --> 00:20:50,987
On the same day I left home, and never
returned.
Now I had to earn a living.
154
00:21:15,741 --> 00:21:18,329
Yuval Castle. Years later.
155
00:21:18,661 --> 00:21:23,461
I felt a calm in the valley,
and lived in Villnoss to 40 years.
156
00:21:23,736 --> 00:21:27,223
And then moved into the castle.
157
00:21:27,951 --> 00:21:35,657
My father thought it a waste of money:
"From the castle alone costs. For what purpose does it serve?"
158
00:21:35,979 --> 00:21:39,303
Later I learned that he had never been there
and never saw the castle.
159
00:21:39,606 --> 00:21:43,999
"You're crazy!"
That was the way my father.
160
00:21:44,513 --> 00:21:50,881
Reinhold is always ready to make a riot.
It is impossible to imagine without such
"Insurrection."
161
00:21:51,173 --> 00:21:55,630
Maybe this is due to unconscious Dilema
162
00:21:55,932 --> 00:22:00,268
between the desire to obey his father
and the inability to obey him.
163
00:22:00,549 --> 00:22:03,674
Rebellion - is part of Reinhold.
164
00:22:04,509 --> 00:22:08,002
My father never knew that Reinhold
165
00:22:08,292 --> 00:22:12,227
was your vision and how we achieve it.
166
00:22:12,510 --> 00:22:17,814
Reinhold lives always thought: "It is possible."
167
00:22:18,137 --> 00:22:23,365
It can be said, his motto is: "It's possible do it. "
168
00:22:23,702 --> 00:22:28,954
I got a lot more knowledge of climbing,
than at school or university.
169
00:22:29,274 --> 00:22:31,716
In addition, there is a possibility of my total
participation.
170
00:22:32,027 --> 00:22:36,208
My ability to concentrate
and abstracting from the rest
171
00:22:36,549 --> 00:22:40,876
came with ascents and not during their studies.
172
00:22:53,852 --> 00:23:02,499
I looked at this hobby and wondered:
"Where is the fun?"
173
00:23:11,065 --> 00:23:17,919
For Reinhold and Gunther was there
something that was more important than anything else.
174
00:23:19,117 --> 00:23:25,036
What we did was a little crazy.
We walked there, risking their lives.
175
00:23:25,365 --> 00:23:32,472
The dispute between the possible and the impossible.
The boundary between success and failure.
176
00:23:32,776 --> 00:23:42,024
There are some links that is even stronger than family ties. So we have had with Gunther.
177
00:23:42,334 --> 00:23:49,770
First, on the north wall of the Ortler, we realized
did something that no one could do.
178
00:23:50,070 --> 00:23:53,096
At least a narrow family.
179
00:23:53,423 --> 00:23:58,624
But still, we could not tell anyone about this.
In the mountains, we were in another world.
180
00:24:17,171 --> 00:24:21,301
- Gunter would like to go with us.
- Yeah, if I was invited ....
181
00:24:21,638 --> 00:24:23,710
- Gunther, where his mother?
- It is.
182
00:24:24,657 --> 00:24:28,679
- Are you going to Droites?
- Maybe.
183
00:24:31,013 --> 00:24:38,967
- Take care of yourself, Gunther. Childcare.
- Sit down, we have a long road ahead to Chamonix.
184
00:24:52,238 --> 00:24:56,290
On this trip, my father first told me about the war.
185
00:24:56,606 --> 00:25:04,261
He fought in Russia,
chosen because Germany in 1939
186
00:25:06,197 --> 00:25:13,784
Besides his father, 86% of the inhabitants of South Tyrol
were willing to stand under the banner of the Third Reich.
187
00:25:14,126 --> 00:25:21,374
They became the Germans and had to emigrate.
There was talk of moving to the Crimea and the Carpathians.
188
00:25:21,703 --> 00:25:25,621
Those who refused were, of course, the Italians.
189
00:25:26,475 --> 00:25:29,420
Even South Tyrolean names had to be changed.
190
00:25:29,713 --> 00:25:34,007
Instead, Joseph was Giuseppe now.
This annoyed people.
191
00:25:34,358 --> 00:25:43,541
The father appeared in children between 1943 and 1950,
and he chose untranslatable names.
192
00:25:43,872 --> 00:25:47,292
Reinhold name is not translated.
And Helmut too, and Waltraud.
193
00:25:47,591 --> 00:25:52,094
He managed to get a translator
in the service of the German army ranks.
194
00:25:52,411 --> 00:25:56,256
It was clear that this was because
195
00:25:56,599 --> 00:26:02,376
that he shared the views of the Third Reich.
196
00:26:04,608 --> 00:26:09,863
I wanted our family more open communication.
197
00:26:10,178 --> 00:26:16,423
We grew up "within four walls"
having no ideas about a very different world.
198
00:26:50,331 --> 00:26:55,002
In the mountains flourished anarchy.
199
00:26:55,334 --> 00:26:59,631
Photos appeared, expressing protest.
200
00:26:59,946 --> 00:27:06,970
We stopped waving flags.
Mountaineering was no longer "national dimension".
201
00:27:11,941 --> 00:27:19,982
I was one of the first
who completely rejected this aspect of mountaineering.
202
00:27:20,286 --> 00:27:27,388
Of course, there were many critics
from the 'old' climbers and conservatives.
203
00:27:27,684 --> 00:27:29,688
But it did not affect me not, and do not
interested.
204
00:27:29,989 --> 00:27:32,967
MORALE
205
00:27:36,768 --> 00:27:42,152
In 1969, having already had the experience of rock and ice routes. I went to France.
206
00:27:42,455 --> 00:27:45,807
Were invited to the best European climbers.
207
00:27:46,120 --> 00:27:53,429
I went to Argentiere, having in mind a vague idea
solo passage on any wall.
208
00:28:02,583 --> 00:28:08,908
DROITES
North Face, 4000 meters.
209
00:28:09,214 --> 00:28:13,422
The older and more experienced climber,
who could not make something,
210
00:28:13,692 --> 00:28:18,767
the more he defended the view
that it is impossible to pass such a route.
211
00:28:19,082 --> 00:28:24,087
So I decided to intervene and declare
that this position has nothing to do with morality.
212
00:28:24,440 --> 00:28:31,911
Since then, I openly say
What if I decided something, then I'm ready to go even against all.
213
00:28:32,255 --> 00:28:39,299
They do not need me. And I have them too.
I will not let anyone tell me how to go the route.
214
00:28:39,628 --> 00:28:45,631
In 1969, when he arrived at the shelter,
it became apparent that he was going to Droites.
215
00:28:46,866 --> 00:28:51,232
My brother then asked: "Droites?"
He replied: "Yes."
216
00:28:51,586 --> 00:28:54,557
Where is your brother?
You're going to climb it alone?
217
00:28:58,436 --> 00:29:00,821
Crazy!
218
00:29:09,178 --> 00:29:15,082
Reinhold was a man not of this world.
1969 was a year after the events of May 1968 in
France.
219
00:29:15,363 --> 00:29:22,573
Although our shelter and was not a commune,
but young people wore long hair. That was cool.
220
00:29:22,849 --> 00:29:28,469
Reinhold was somewhat different.
He loved solitude.
221
00:29:31,786 --> 00:29:36,700
The news spread quickly,
though he asked us not to do so.
222
00:29:37,007 --> 00:29:40,144
But it was impossible.
The plan was too absurd.
223
00:29:47,642 --> 00:29:49,271
North Face Droites.
224
00:29:52,761 --> 00:29:57,381
Did you hear that?
He said so. Exactly.
225
00:29:59,404 --> 00:30:01,742
- It's impossible.
- Look in the book.
226
00:30:02,066 --> 00:30:04,505
Extinguish the light. Unbelievable.
227
00:30:04,851 --> 00:30:06,519
- It says here ...
- What?
228
00:30:06,747 --> 00:30:11,710
"The North Face Droites,
1000 meters in height, 500 m in width
229
00:30:12,056 --> 00:30:17,762
Despite its beauty, it was passed last
in the list of major ice-rock walls.
230
00:30:18,105 --> 00:30:27,517
Given the danger of falling rock and ice,
She is undoubtedly one of the biggest problems in the Alps. "
231
00:30:27,876 --> 00:30:30,656
- Is it already passed?
- Let's see.
232
00:30:31,003 --> 00:30:35,075
It says that the first team took 5 days
second team - two.
233
00:30:35,418 --> 00:30:40,053
And he wants to pass it in one day? Solo?
Crazy.
234
00:30:48,677 --> 00:30:54,330
It is impossible, no doubt.
The route is very difficult.
235
00:31:07,365 --> 00:31:14,510
To make the ascent of the North Face,
need to get up at 2:00 in the morning.
236
00:31:15,052 --> 00:31:19,750
Reinhold ... already 3:00.
237
00:31:21,919 --> 00:31:29,459
One of the difficulties solo ascent of Droites - start.
Because in the dark scary climb up the wall.
238
00:31:29,802 --> 00:31:33,647
We all know what can happen.
239
00:31:33,982 --> 00:31:41,059
I think Gunter just wanted to avoid it.
Considered too risky, and said that I die.
240
00:31:41,871 --> 00:31:44,065
July 11, 1969
4:00 am
241
00:31:46,236 --> 00:31:53,947
I did not want to know the parents and brothers,
I went to this difficult route one.
242
00:31:54,719 --> 00:31:59,015
- Well, I went.
- Good luck, Reinhold.
243
00:32:03,450 --> 00:32:08,115
In solo ascents no margin for error.
Any of these can be fatal.
244
00:32:10,170 --> 00:32:13,805
When I climb the route, all the fears go away.
245
00:32:14,562 --> 00:32:20,703
It remains only to full concentration
the continuous movement of arms and legs.
246
00:32:21,672 --> 00:32:23,500
It gives me a sense of security.
247
00:32:25,015 --> 00:32:32,137
If you do not throw away everything including moral issues -
in my case it's parents and his brothers,
248
00:32:32,461 --> 00:32:37,173
worried that I'm doing something incredible -
you do this, you can not.
249
00:32:39,645 --> 00:32:44,372
I see only a few centimeters
ice and snow in front of him.
250
00:32:44,667 --> 00:32:51,680
There is a constant alternation: stable position - move up.
So there is a flow of energy.
251
00:32:54,818 --> 00:33:01,475
Maybe climbing develop this condition fluidity
because I'm moving to full concentration.
252
00:33:49,178 --> 00:33:55,066
Even a small stone can hit on the finger so that you
no longer able to work hand and have to go the route.
253
00:33:59,552 --> 00:34:07,907
But if we move quickly, the chances of getting hit rock
much less than the 3-5 day ascent.
254
00:35:29,452 --> 00:35:36,794
When he reached the top, I thought, "What a fool!
He succeeded, but he was not exactly in my mind. "
255
00:35:37,173 --> 00:35:43,556
I saw how he reached the top
in record time - about 12 and a half hours.
256
00:35:43,897 --> 00:35:48,294
We realized that there was something completely new.
257
00:35:48,538 --> 00:35:57,931
First we saw that someone climbs well,
making continuous motion strange ice ax.
258
00:35:58,206 --> 00:36:01,831
It was incredible, I was really surprised.
259
00:36:03,739 --> 00:36:07,796
This moment has affected all of my generation!
260
00:36:11,081 --> 00:36:18,656
The next day we went to the Pic du Midi,
and went up on the new route in one day.
261
00:36:18,976 --> 00:36:24,658
On the same day we returned to the shelter Argentiere,
and passed Dagland.
262
00:36:24,979 --> 00:36:30,667
We went to the Grandes Jorasses and wanted to go
the north wall of the new route.
263
00:36:30,995 --> 00:36:33,917
But then climbing conditions
did not allow a large number of routes.
264
00:36:36,637 --> 00:36:42,370
Marmolada
The south wall, the Dolomites, 3343 m
265
00:36:47,213 --> 00:36:51,999
returned in perfect condition only in 1969.
266
00:36:52,281 --> 00:36:58,495
When you do not have a partner, I walked one.
On the limits of the possible for the time.
267
00:36:58,858 --> 00:37:02,451
Civetta, The North Face, the Dolomites, 3220 meters
-
But here I felt relatively safe.
268
00:37:14,472 --> 00:37:20,280
By the end of the summer I was in great shape,
like never before.
269
00:37:20,601 --> 00:37:24,663
At the time, I could not imagine myself
without climbing.
270
00:37:24,940 --> 00:37:29,763
Then there was the expedition to Nanga Parbat,
held by the success
271
00:37:30,075 --> 00:37:34,399
on the north wall Droites.
But it was another dimension.
272
00:37:34,649 --> 00:37:38,163
RESPONSIBILITY
273
00:37:51,328 --> 00:37:55,909
I still remember very well how we wished
274
00:37:56,219 --> 00:37:59,893
that invited Reinhold and Günther - no.
275
00:38:00,710 --> 00:38:02,926
- Mom
- Thank you.
276
00:38:04,436 --> 00:38:07,217
Gunther, this is for you. Gift.
277
00:38:07,497 --> 00:38:11,278
- Thank you, what is it?
- Open it and see.
278
00:38:16,619 --> 00:38:18,766
Nanga Parbat? Invitation for me?
279
00:38:21,694 --> 00:38:24,120
Wow, great!
280
00:38:24,457 --> 00:38:27,568
Of course, he was delighted.
281
00:38:27,867 --> 00:38:31,691
And do not feel slighted, as has happened before.
282
00:38:34,057 --> 00:38:40,450
Once I asked my brother to invite
with support from our father,
283
00:38:40,773 --> 00:38:44,512
Herligkoffer expedition leader,
using his position
284
00:38:44,819 --> 00:38:50,369
and numerous contacts in Pakistan
able to issue an invitation to Gunther.
285
00:38:51,301 --> 00:38:58,788
I gave up shortly before the start of the expedition,
and instead I took Gunther.
286
00:38:59,123 --> 00:39:03,927
It was a hasty decision
received too late. That's my fault.
287
00:39:04,229 --> 00:39:12,015
Gunther was not considered as an alternate member
expedition. And yet he went, which was not very good.
288
00:39:19,789 --> 00:39:22,887
German Himalayan expedition to Nanga Parbat
289
00:39:29,487 --> 00:39:38,299
We had big ambitions, despite the unsuccessful
German attempts of strongest climbers in his time.
290
00:39:47,409 --> 00:39:50,232
Now it's our turn
and we were a young team.
291
00:39:50,559 --> 00:39:55,673
We would like to say:
"They failed, but we were able to."
292
00:40:10,226 --> 00:40:12,481
Nanga Parbat
Pakistan, 8125 meters
293
00:40:19,972 --> 00:40:25,969
We knew about the act Hermann Buhl on Nanga Parbat
and his statement that the Rupal Face
impassable.
294
00:40:26,288 --> 00:40:32,828
But after his ascent took 17 years.
We carried with it a new era.
295
00:40:33,138 --> 00:40:38,260
Large Rupal Face -
is the true face of Nanga Parbat.
296
00:40:38,557 --> 00:40:43,951
Nanga Parbat, which is considered in the German-speaking regions
one of the most important eight-thousanders,
297
00:40:44,253 --> 00:40:52,074
with the highest wall in the world, meant for us
Youth the highest goal to be achieved.
298
00:41:08,226 --> 00:41:11,019
It was a real challenge
solve this problem climbing.
299
00:41:11,361 --> 00:41:16,588
If I was invited to the normal route
Everest, I would not be interested.
300
00:41:16,921 --> 00:41:23,028
In short, the aim of the expedition was the idea
so at least someone reached the top. No matter who.
301
00:41:23,333 --> 00:41:28,590
In this sense, the expedition was quite archaic.
Something in the style of the 1930s.
302
00:41:30,361 --> 00:41:33,614
- We promise ...
- We promise ...
303
00:41:35,929 --> 00:41:42,667
- Fight for the impregnable top of our planet,
- Fight for the impregnable top of our planet,
304
00:41:42,963 --> 00:41:47,178
- In honor of climbers
- In honor of climbers
305
00:41:47,924 --> 00:41:51,443
- In honor of our country.
- In honor of our country.
306
00:41:51,751 --> 00:41:56,476
- Long live our expedition!
- Hooray! Hooray! Hooray!
307
00:41:56,806 --> 00:42:03,837
Leader of the expedition, which was more like
Deputy on general issues, knew nothing about mountaineering which caused some difficulties in the team.
308
00:42:04,137 --> 00:42:11,713
Herligkofferu able to separate almost all
teammates:
Chaim and Cui, Saler and Scholes, for example.
309
00:42:12,017 --> 00:42:18,893
But we could not. I said:
"Or my brother and I go together, or nowhere at all
go ".
310
00:42:45,457 --> 00:42:52,034
Nanga Parbat we raised the topic
about the future of climbing school
311
00:42:52,355 --> 00:42:55,671
as an extension of a professional career.
312
00:42:55,971 --> 00:43:02,368
We never discussed this idea before.
But Nanga Parbat all changed
313
00:43:02,662 --> 00:43:07,997
because we saw who these famous
Gentlemen, participated in the expedition.
314
00:43:08,320 --> 00:43:14,245
We looked there young and modest,
but quickly realized that if they can, and we will too.
315
00:43:14,560 --> 00:43:18,428
Especially when it comes to respect for mother nature.
316
00:43:27,166 --> 00:43:35,155
We were informed that Messner brothers and Gerhard Baur rise today in Camp 5,
317
00:43:35,477 --> 00:43:40,333
and the next day, weather permitting,
318
00:43:40,659 --> 00:43:46,755
they're going to hang fixed ropes
for the assault on the summit.
319
00:43:47,534 --> 00:43:53,440
They will wait for a signal in the form of red missiles
or descend to Camp 4.
320
00:43:55,266 --> 00:43:59,894
I submit that report Herligkoffera - full
fiction.
321
00:44:00,252 --> 00:44:03,148
Something was brewing in the air. It is logical.
322
00:44:06,263 --> 00:44:10,835
Nanga Parbat 70
The case of the missile
323
00:44:11,135 --> 00:44:16,046
Version Herligkoffera
differs from the version 7 of the expedition participants.
324
00:44:18,694 --> 00:44:24,120
Weather flawless. And Reinhold Messner
should be the first to climb to the top.
325
00:44:25,364 --> 00:44:30,177
The situation was clear.
The weather was getting worse, fired red
rocket.
326
00:44:30,510 --> 00:44:35,571
The day before, I told your offer on the radio:
"If the weather turned bad, I'll go by myself."
327
00:44:35,905 --> 00:44:40,097
That was the plan of my brother, who understood
I will only answer for myself.
328
00:44:40,425 --> 00:44:44,540
One person can react faster.
I felt comfortable at a height of 6000 meters.
329
00:44:46,749 --> 00:44:50,022
After the Red Rocket was released,
I walked toward the gully Merkle.
330
00:44:50,301 --> 00:44:54,438
The steepest part of the gully is almost vertical.
331
00:44:54,765 --> 00:44:59,522
And then, at the end of the gully Merkle,
appearance of my brother has created a situation
332
00:44:59,882 --> 00:45:03,703
and I could not imagine.
It is not included in the plans.
333
00:45:09,472 --> 00:45:16,217
I discussed with them the danger of our situation.
Nevertheless, we decided
334
00:45:16,567 --> 00:45:21,425
that up to the top, we will not talk
possible options for the descent.
335
00:45:52,336 --> 00:45:57,146
Rope is a must in the mountains.
If one breaks down, another delay it.
336
00:45:57,469 --> 00:46:02,430
My brother knew what climbing,
but he did not go without insurance. This was a problem.
337
00:46:02,751 --> 00:46:11,132
To catch up with me, he scored 1,000 meters very
quickly.
This led to the emergence of symptoms of altitude sickness.
338
00:46:11,471 --> 00:46:17,557
He followed me, because I wanted to
share the joy of reaching the top.
339
00:46:24,308 --> 00:46:31,636
While Hubert, Siegfried and I were in Switzerland.
Grazed cows.
340
00:46:31,993 --> 00:46:34,331
And I remember that ...
341
00:46:35,854 --> 00:46:41,990
once we got a telegram to his father.
342
00:46:43,330 --> 00:46:49,388
At the top, I realized that we were trapped.
There was no shelter, and no one was going to
rise to us.
343
00:46:49,745 --> 00:46:55,417
We could not go back on the Rupal Face,
because his brother would probably broke somewhere.
344
00:46:58,050 --> 00:47:05,033
Thus, contrary to common sense,
they began to descend the western slope of the mountain
345
00:47:05,398 --> 00:47:13,896
We had to seek shelter and go down to the gully
Merkle,
where was the only chance to camp dokrichatsya 5.
346
00:47:15,465 --> 00:47:21,718
We stopped at an altitude of 7800 meters.
There was no shelter.
347
00:47:22,039 --> 00:47:25,971
All night we sat on the shelf
with nothing but their own clothes.
348
00:47:26,331 --> 00:47:30,923
In the morning I saw that the wall beneath us was vertical.
349
00:47:31,265 --> 00:47:37,868
I was terrified. Go down without a rope
there was no way.
350
00:47:38,202 --> 00:47:47,033
Cui appearance and Scholes meant only one thing:
they heard our cries for help and carried the rope.
351
00:47:47,380 --> 00:47:49,486
I could not have imagined that they were going to the top.
352
00:47:49,826 --> 00:47:54,644
And when they tried to approach us
I realized that they were not here for the sake of our salvation.
353
00:47:54,971 --> 00:48:02,760
So, we are left by themselves.
They just could not get up to us.
354
00:48:07,889 --> 00:48:12,782
I clung to the bizarre idea
355
00:48:13,153 --> 00:48:17,758
that Gunther is not dead, but simply went into isolation.
356
00:48:18,100 --> 00:48:23,211
This could be, and quite like it.
He always strove to loneliness.
357
00:48:23,558 --> 00:48:29,406
I thought it was a good opportunity
for him to escape from civilization.
358
00:48:29,870 --> 00:48:34,093
We had to go down.
If Mummery could rise in 1895
359
00:48:34,340 --> 00:48:38,459
then we will go down,
despite our weak state.
360
00:48:38,764 --> 00:48:45,701
The descent down the other side of the mountain took us 2 days.
361
00:48:46,020 --> 00:48:50,108
Complicating the situation is a large number of cracks
and huge seracs.
362
00:48:53,099 --> 00:48:58,062
I waited until he comes, and said:
"I'll see how to get around these cracks."
363
00:48:58,387 --> 00:49:00,979
When I realized that Gunther was
far behind, then turned back.
364
00:49:15,111 --> 00:49:22,985
In the mountains, where you can see and hear the partner ...
Difficult to understand that there was no contact.
365
00:49:23,326 --> 00:49:27,936
Not having a rope, you can easily lose each other.
366
00:49:48,318 --> 00:49:50,602
The telegram read:
367
00:49:52,011 --> 00:49:53,650
"Gunther died.
368
00:49:58,270 --> 00:50:00,262
Reinhold alive. "
369
00:50:01,136 --> 00:50:03,857
Only these two proposals.
370
00:50:04,126 --> 00:50:07,253
We did not understand how a brother could lose a brother?
371
00:50:07,580 --> 00:50:11,520
On the climbs in the Alps,
we said that we will never die.
372
00:50:11,841 --> 00:50:17,090
Of course, it was quite naive,
but we felt then.
373
00:50:38,536 --> 00:50:44,668
Gunther!
374
00:51:01,692 --> 00:51:06,509
So I was left alone on the edge of the world,
not knowing what to do.
375
00:51:09,791 --> 00:51:13,802
My best partner, my brother ...
376
00:51:14,085 --> 00:51:21,441
with whom we have so much to do ...
It was totally unexpected.
377
00:51:21,837 --> 00:51:27,484
I felt duty to return home
and tell our parents what happened.
378
00:51:33,344 --> 00:51:38,429
I know that it was very difficult
back without Gunther.
379
00:51:38,740 --> 00:51:43,194
We have always cared about the senior Bush.
380
00:52:00,992 --> 00:52:07,989
I think my father would always blame Reinhold is
that he gave his brother.
381
00:52:08,552 --> 00:52:14,453
Mother worried the most,
but the pain was common.
382
00:52:14,743 --> 00:52:17,588
Avalanche buried Guenther Messner on Nanga Parbat.
383
00:52:17,983 --> 00:52:20,889
Guenther Messner
05.18.1946 - 06.29.1970
384
00:52:21,736 --> 00:52:23,885
Guenther Messner died on Nanga Parbat.
385
00:52:24,480 --> 00:52:28,500
Due to reports, which began to appear in the press
any questions about
386
00:52:28,800 --> 00:52:33,097
what actually happened with Gunther,
and why he did not stop in the gully Merkle.
387
00:52:33,428 --> 00:52:38,569
My parents, brothers and sisters, too, doubted
no account of what happened.
388
00:52:38,906 --> 00:52:46,354
Possibly death ...
this emptiness that leaves death
389
00:52:46,688 --> 00:52:51,135
was for him ...
390
00:52:56,866 --> 00:53:04,625
We can say,
that he was confronted with his own vulnerability.
391
00:53:11,388 --> 00:53:13,921
Mother was a very positive person.
392
00:53:14,309 --> 00:53:18,194
She could cope psychologically with all
problems
393
00:53:18,661 --> 00:53:22,685
thanks to his eternal optimism.
394
00:53:26,487 --> 00:53:31,825
In my opinion, the story of Nanga Parbat
radically changed Reinhold.
395
00:53:32,171 --> 00:53:36,834
I just knew he had to leave the high life
396
00:53:37,173 --> 00:53:40,928
and follow the path
that we have always dreamed of with Gunther.
397
00:53:41,253 --> 00:53:46,036
Live backpacking and adventure seeking.
That such was our plan.
398
00:53:46,427 --> 00:53:51,256
And my life has become so extreme,
that we could not have dreamed.
399
00:54:02,129 --> 00:54:06,264
After Nanga Parbat,
Reinhold was taken to hospital in Innsbruck.
400
00:54:06,574 --> 00:54:14,652
He was well known, thanks to his climbing.
And I visited him in the hospital.
401
00:54:14,972 --> 00:54:21,153
Then we talked about future plans.
In 1972, we received permission to Manaslu.
402
00:54:21,482 --> 00:54:25,474
Reinhold said:
"If I am cured legs, I in team".
403
00:54:25,774 --> 00:54:31,897
This time it was a small group
Experienced climbers from Tyrol region.
404
00:54:32,452 --> 00:54:37,556
Leader was Wolfgang Nairts,
the same age as us.
405
00:54:41,787 --> 00:54:48,332
Manaslu
Nepal, 8163 meters
406
00:54:50,478 --> 00:54:57,823
Honestly, for me this offer
was a surprise, as it is sometimes
407
00:54:58,121 --> 00:55:02,215
or telephone conversation, such as:
"Well, come on?"
408
00:55:04,433 --> 00:55:10,358
Horst Fanhauzer was fast, strong and experienced.
We were partners in the ascent.
409
00:55:10,646 --> 00:55:19,139
But as the relationship went wrong,
then finally decided that I would go along with
Franz Jaeger.
410
00:55:20,686 --> 00:55:24,000
No one could not assume
after a few hours
411
00:55:24,306 --> 00:55:30,579
a violent storm
which will cover the entire mountain.
412
00:55:30,893 --> 00:55:34,584
It snowed and strong wind,
so that visibility dropped to zero.
413
00:55:35,149 --> 00:55:38,706
I was guided by the wind,
as remembered from approaching storm.
414
00:55:39,000 --> 00:55:44,365
I moved to the south side,
having a vague idea where there is a tent.
415
00:55:44,667 --> 00:55:49,488
From the blizzard came staggering figure.
416
00:55:49,838 --> 00:55:54,482
Horst, is that you? Who's there?
417
00:55:54,830 --> 00:56:00,251
- This Reinhold. Where is France?
- Franz should be with you.
418
00:56:00,555 --> 00:56:07,700
I thought it helped me screams Franz Jaeger,
which came out of the tent to help me.
419
00:56:08,014 --> 00:56:12,845
But after a while that I was confused,
I began to hear voices from different sides.
420
00:56:17,403 --> 00:56:24,757
I thought that he went to the roof.
Andy and I went in search of Franz.
421
00:56:25,629 --> 00:56:29,426
We both just heard his cries.
422
00:56:34,577 --> 00:56:38,595
We wandered for hours in the storm.
423
00:56:39,121 --> 00:56:45,518
And suddenly, Andy fell in the snow behind me and said:
424
00:56:46,436 --> 00:56:51,899
"I can not, I can not endure."
"I'm dying. I want to sleep."
425
00:56:55,331 --> 00:57:05,550
Fate brought us to a crack in the rock.
We climbed inside to somehow protect themselves from the storm.
426
00:57:07,485 --> 00:57:11,826
An hour later, Andy decided to check out what's up with the weather.
427
00:57:12,149 --> 00:57:19,640
The last thing I remember - it's Andy feet outside.
428
00:57:19,989 --> 00:57:28,335
Suddenly he stepped to the right and disappeared completely from my
Eye.
429
00:57:30,711 --> 00:57:35,753
I screamed so much that I almost went crazy.
430
00:57:36,066 --> 00:57:40,586
But there was nothing around except infernal snow.
431
00:57:40,946 --> 00:57:48,595
At that moment I thought of my little son.
432
00:57:48,916 --> 00:57:55,710
For a moment I saw a child,
and suddenly, instead there is a huge moon.
433
00:57:59,371 --> 00:58:03,608
The idea to be in heaven,
was very soothing.
434
00:58:03,897 --> 00:58:11,093
Absolutely white surface ...
The clouds are gone, but all was covered with snow.
435
00:58:11,400 --> 00:58:18,101
Snow desert, white, endless.
And no trace of Andy, in general ...
436
00:58:21,192 --> 00:58:30,437
And then I felt that Andy is no longer alive,
and, of course, Franz too.
437
00:58:32,304 --> 00:58:36,040
I went back to the tent.
438
00:58:36,366 --> 00:58:41,133
Reinhold probably heard me
and shouted, "Who's there?"
439
00:58:41,681 --> 00:58:47,571
I still clearly remember
as he opened the tent and looked out.
440
00:58:48,742 --> 00:58:56,235
He was shocked to see me alive.
At that moment, he did not know that ...
441
00:59:05,834 --> 00:59:11,881
Of course, there are critics who wrote,
Messner threw that Franz Jaeger.
442
00:59:12,204 --> 00:59:16,420
But separation ligament -
It is normal in the mountains, in the expeditions.
443
00:59:16,739 --> 00:59:21,960
And we, the expedition members and friends,
understood it perfectly.
444
00:59:23,276 --> 00:59:26,348
Said that Messner ambitious and foolhardy.
445
00:59:26,650 --> 00:59:31,269
At least once a month, someone wrote,
such as Messner, do not last long.
446
00:59:31,598 --> 00:59:36,998
They wanted me to be abandoned eight thousand,
saving his life and the lives of others.
447
00:59:37,315 --> 00:59:44,512
Then I felt some uncertainty -
if I continue or not.
448
00:59:44,833 --> 00:59:52,073
Not because their parents or brothers.
It was an internal question: "Should I?"
449
00:59:54,831 --> 01:00:00,115
I decided not to give up and go forward
even if left alone.
450
01:00:00,426 --> 01:00:03,209
I am responsible only for myself.
451
01:00:03,532 --> 01:00:10,214
I did not have family or other commitments.
452
01:00:10,514 --> 01:00:15,379
At that time I was married to the Uschi . She knew
453
01:00:15,740 --> 01:00:21,017
I need to live this passion,
his father had called disease.
454
01:00:21,378 --> 01:00:26,182
In 1973, my goal was
to climb Nanga Parbat alone.
455
01:00:26,562 --> 01:00:32,124
But did not succeed because ...
was not yet ready.
456
01:00:32,418 --> 01:00:36,039
That is not enough fortitude to
make a solo ascent.
457
01:00:36,350 --> 01:00:40,251
Fears have taken up and turned me back.
458
01:00:44,348 --> 01:00:52,758
Losing mom was a blow to me,
but parting with Uschi was more painful.
459
01:00:54,162 --> 01:00:59,690
On the one hand, it was his tragedy,
and on the other - a kind of liberation.
460
01:01:06,511 --> 01:01:10,221
Then he disappeared, no one knows where.
461
01:01:10,559 --> 01:01:16,186
We thought he was somewhere near the mountains.
He never said where he was.
462
01:01:21,432 --> 01:01:26,697
In 1977, I have several times
trying to get back on Nanga Parbat.
463
01:01:27,023 --> 01:01:31,228
At that time, it was the best achievement in mountaineering.
464
01:01:31,540 --> 01:01:37,800
Maybe I had to do something else.
465
01:01:38,092 --> 01:01:45,327
It was one of the worst crises, deep
depression.
It took a long time to recover.
466
01:01:53,093 --> 01:01:57,223
I have tried to live differently. Worked.
467
01:01:57,554 --> 01:02:02,351
I was free, and I had the advantage
compared with Peter.
468
01:02:02,672 --> 01:02:09,930
He had more responsibilities,
more responsibility to the family than me.
469
01:02:10,360 --> 01:02:14,634
I went to a lecture and stood by the table
with books about Nepal.
470
01:02:14,949 --> 01:02:18,148
Then he came up and started talking about Nepal.
471
01:02:18,492 --> 01:02:21,379
SELF
472
01:02:22,147 --> 01:02:25,692
Soon he came up and said that if I'm interested ...
473
01:02:26,010 --> 01:02:30,748
He was planning something risky
and he needed for the expedition doctor.
474
01:02:31,068 --> 01:02:34,420
Said he was going to Everest.
475
01:02:34,723 --> 01:02:39,938
And if I want, I can come to him
the base camp, and discuss everything there.
476
01:02:40,229 --> 01:02:48,908
And so it happened.
Once there I realized that violate taboos crazy.
477
01:02:49,228 --> 01:02:53,939
I thought, "God, I hope,
he changed his mind and refuse. "
478
01:02:54,245 --> 01:03:00,418
But death fascinated me
and climbers, who threw her a call.
479
01:03:02,911 --> 01:03:06,400
Everest. Everest was already conquered.
480
01:03:06,820 --> 01:03:13,567
Everest
Nepal, Tibet / China, 8848 meters
481
01:03:18,618 --> 01:03:22,854
He simply said:
"We are what we are.'s See what we can
do it. "
482
01:03:24,289 --> 01:03:28,503
Rose a little noise around us with Messner.
We said we would go without oxygen.
483
01:03:28,793 --> 01:03:32,604
Overall, it was a logical extension.
484
01:03:32,887 --> 01:03:39,189
In 1978, oxygen equipment
weighed about 50 kg per person.
485
01:03:39,851 --> 01:03:46,313
I wondered, "If this is possible without
oxygen
it means you can go without, all eight thousanders ".
486
01:03:46,594 --> 01:03:50,174
Then we will act differently in the high mountains.
487
01:03:51,788 --> 01:03:58,147
We were strong and fast.
In alpine style we climbed the Hidden Peak
(Gasherbrum I).
488
01:03:58,430 --> 01:04:03,894
But Hidden Peak - is 8080 meters.
Everest before lacked a further 800 meters.
489
01:04:04,257 --> 01:04:07,242
I thought:
"Damn, what now? It will be tough."
490
01:04:07,527 --> 01:04:09,621
"That's impossible," - said physiologists.
491
01:04:09,892 --> 01:04:15,146
"This will lead to madness" - says psychologist.
"It's arrogance," - said the climbers.
492
01:04:15,431 --> 01:04:20,186
As for Messner, I would either
refuse,
or never come back.
493
01:04:21,648 --> 01:04:23,908
We got up and went to Camp 1.
494
01:04:24,191 --> 01:04:30,283
I well remember how we sang all night.
I could not sleep, and Reinhold sang songs.
495
01:04:31,129 --> 01:04:36,300
It was interesting to be somewhere else.
The weather was gorgeous.
496
01:04:39,164 --> 01:04:44,289
If we failed to Peter,
then all would say: "We knew it was coming."
497
01:04:44,574 --> 01:04:49,553
Although would like: "They can do it".
This is understandable.
498
01:04:49,846 --> 01:04:55,493
I looked up, the weather was not very good.
And said, "Reinhold, I do not like it."
499
01:04:56,867 --> 01:05:01,566
Perhaps Peter back in the ranks. I know him
as the strongest climber of all the people I have met.
500
01:05:01,858 --> 01:05:07,076
But this year, he was everywhere mereschatsya danger.
It rises to 100 meters, there is a cloud.
501
01:05:07,381 --> 01:05:10,702
He says: "This is not good. Let's go."
502
01:05:12,172 --> 01:05:16,040
The next day we reached Camp 2.
The weather became worse.
503
01:05:16,365 --> 01:05:22,666
We spent the night sitting in a tent.
Reinhold kept his two corners of the tent, and I - two its.
504
01:05:24,455 --> 01:05:30,614
I thought we would die.
Since we had no place to hide.
505
01:05:34,225 --> 01:05:41,073
At that time my son was born, and I thought:
"Oh my God, I do not want to die. I can not here
die! "
506
01:05:41,749 --> 01:05:45,096
Morning and evening, we were contacted by radio.
507
01:05:45,372 --> 01:05:51,770
Reinhold said: "We're not sure.
Peter does not want to go. What do you think? "
508
01:05:52,050 --> 01:05:58,452
For me it was too much.
Who am I to tell them what to do?
509
01:05:58,728 --> 01:06:01,821
I had hoped that they would refuse
of madness and went downstairs.
510
01:06:01,910 --> 01:06:08,273
Go back - it was a good idea. But it was stupid to go down, the next day to try again climb.
511
01:06:09,800 --> 01:06:13,184
I can not describe all the fear,
who had to endure.
512
01:06:13,629 --> 01:06:19,740
It was terribly cold, sleep impossible.
It was all very scary.
513
01:06:40,759 --> 01:06:45,873
Everest we caught in a storm.
But know that this is our last chance.
514
01:06:46,147 --> 01:06:52,629
We went out early, the wind was blowing and it was cold. It was the right decision, otherwise it would be even worse.
515
01:06:53,307 --> 01:06:56,411
Below the summit, we were already at the limit of strength.
516
01:06:56,704 --> 01:07:01,708
The wind was so strong that we had to
crawl on all fours to being blown.
517
01:07:03,557 --> 01:07:09,750
I so desperately waving his ax,
that I started cramping in his right hand.
518
01:07:10,055 --> 01:07:15,300
At that moment I thought:
"Now what happens is that we have been waiting for."
519
01:07:16,167 --> 01:07:23,111
I saw myself from the outside.
I, Peter Habeler, watched from the sidelines as I
climb.
520
01:07:38,859 --> 01:07:42,133
We could not even say a couple of words,
because due to the storm was not heard.
521
01:07:42,443 --> 01:07:49,937
И если бы один из нас сказал:
"I've had enough, I'm going back" - then both would turn down.
522
01:07:57,458 --> 01:08:01,468
When we got to the top
is very happy.
523
01:08:01,784 --> 01:08:07,409
I felt worse than Reinhold.
All I wanted - it's out of there quickly.
524
01:08:08,689 --> 01:08:10,433
This radio "Nepal".
525
01:08:11,464 --> 01:08:15,648
Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler
of the Austrian expedition
526
01:08:15,974 --> 01:08:20,783
yesterday climbed Everest
without oxygen.
527
01:08:29,490 --> 01:08:32,348
Messner and Habeler conquered Everest
528
01:08:32,679 --> 01:08:35,763
I like to remember this story on Everest.
529
01:08:36,073 --> 01:08:40,109
It was the last vertex with Reinhold.
530
01:08:40,404 --> 01:08:48,922
Had to return to the family
and to build relationships, to avoid losing it.
531
01:08:56,936 --> 01:09:01,569
The whole world saw that it is possible
climb Everest without oxygen.
532
01:09:01,863 --> 01:09:08,149
It was the peak climbing.
The next step for me was quite logical.
533
01:09:08,451 --> 01:09:15,622
To see if I can do it alone,
I returned to Nanga Parbat after Everest.
534
01:09:15,927 --> 01:09:18,521
All right? Hi, how are you?.
535
01:09:29,193 --> 01:09:34,795
I noticed that we have a lot in common with Reinhold.
536
01:09:35,097 --> 01:09:39,776
We both grew up in large families in the village.
And we wanted to get away from it.
537
01:09:40,083 --> 01:09:46,550
Later Greteherrel Ursula, who visited the Everest camp, I went to the Nanga Parbat. They were very nice time.
538
01:09:46,840 --> 01:09:48,828
Six weeks later,
539
01:09:49,130 --> 01:09:54,495
This man fascinated me.
First, his "What I want, I do."
540
01:09:54,804 --> 01:10:01,474
When I heard that this was the sixth attempt,
and the previous five were unlucky, I thought ...
541
01:10:01,778 --> 01:10:08,340
He had no choice because he could not
get permission to "expedition without a doctor."
542
01:10:09,309 --> 01:10:15,095
From the beginning, I had a
serious problem - fear. After all, I, too, man.
543
01:10:15,400 --> 01:10:22,307
He was utterly dejected
flickering flames of fear and despair.
544
01:10:22,619 --> 01:10:27,804
He once said in a tent: "I can not, I can not."
I did not know what was happening.
545
01:10:28,981 --> 01:10:31,844
He could not objectively express what it was.
546
01:10:32,243 --> 01:10:35,854
Nanga Parbat
Solo, 1978
547
01:10:38,309 --> 01:10:45,515
I know what can happen, anything.
Past ascent of Nanga Parbat ended
big trouble.
548
01:10:55,697 --> 01:11:04,476
Terry and I stayed at the base camp
monitor its progress. It was surprising
quickly.
549
01:11:12,209 --> 01:11:19,643
The night passed, I slept in a tent.
And suddenly I heard a desperate cry Terry.
550
01:11:26,352 --> 01:11:32,311
Of course, I panicked.
Maybe something terrible had happened, if he so
cried.
551
01:11:37,039 --> 01:11:42,762
When cleared, we saw
below his tent collapsed giant serac.
552
01:11:44,794 --> 01:11:48,069
This was the situation that try not to think.
553
01:11:48,364 --> 01:11:53,561
I never wanted to ... I refused to think about it.
I just wanted to be together.
554
01:11:53,854 --> 01:11:58,137
And if he does not come back?
Or just put a tent on the site?
555
01:11:58,447 --> 01:12:05,351
Most experts and climbers told
that it was something quite incredible.
556
01:12:05,662 --> 01:12:12,813
And he also said that he was afraid. Afraid of loneliness.
I knew it was not his forte.
557
01:12:13,409 --> 01:12:16,132
It was an earthquake of magnitude
7.0 on the Richter scale.
558
01:12:16,425 --> 01:12:23,387
And suddenly, the likelihood that this could happen
became very real to me.
559
01:12:23,682 --> 01:12:26,980
I had 2 ice screws. One of them held the tent.
560
01:12:27,272 --> 01:12:31,010
Otherwise, the avalanche would carry me
together with a tent, and "hello" ...
561
01:12:31,320 --> 01:12:35,312
Sometimes I was furious:
"What an idiot after that go up?"
562
01:12:35,628 --> 01:12:42,585
I cried at the bottom, fingers crossed, unable to
sleep.
And he rose higher and higher.
563
01:12:42,879 --> 01:12:44,270
It was completely pointless!
564
01:12:44,571 --> 01:12:49,115
"You fool, came with him,
to support this madness.
565
01:12:49,430 --> 01:12:52,930
If you did not go,
then there would be no license! "
566
01:12:53,230 --> 01:12:56,528
Maybe it was good,
but now I feel guilty.
567
01:14:26,027 --> 01:14:30,277
I climbed to the top
with the first signs of bad weather,
568
01:14:30,574 --> 01:14:35,088
but it remained normal.
I went back for the night.
569
01:14:35,478 --> 01:14:40,506
The following 48 hours the temperature dropped.
And this could go on for another two weeks.
570
01:14:40,808 --> 01:14:43,437
After these two days, I made a decision.
571
01:14:43,745 --> 01:14:49,597
In tears, I could see the fog,
where the seracs and base camp.
572
01:14:49,900 --> 01:14:55,065
So I went down a different route,
which was as a fallback.
573
01:14:55,371 --> 01:15:00,592
Dangerous slope, but very quickly.
I went down to the base camp at 6:00 with a height of 7600 meters.
574
01:15:00,892 --> 01:15:05,164
I saw this turn of events and thought:
"Excellent! And what do I do now?"
575
01:15:05,466 --> 01:15:12,265
I put on my shoes and ran to him.
He looked like a ghost.
576
01:15:14,513 --> 01:15:18,330
He looked awful,
but how nice it was to hug him.
577
01:15:18,645 --> 01:15:22,530
It really was
almost sensual physical sensation.
578
01:15:22,846 --> 01:15:28,863
He was alive, and could not walk.
As a ghost, but it was a living person.
579
01:15:29,177 --> 01:15:34,848
He seemed like a being from another world,
and was completely exhausted.
580
01:15:35,389 --> 01:15:39,358
He hardly spoke,
I could not hear a word in response.
581
01:15:39,659 --> 01:15:44,922
On the one hand, this was something divine,
and on the other ... I do not know how to describe.
582
01:15:45,214 --> 01:15:50,945
I never thought I would have to live with such
feelings.
Live thoughts about my brother.
583
01:15:51,222 --> 01:15:56,530
But I feel that somehow, with its energy.
584
01:15:56,835 --> 01:16:02,664
I put them together. My brother was with me
during the expedition to climb.
585
01:16:02,953 --> 01:16:06,998
It is clear that I carry this life feeling.
586
01:16:11,212 --> 01:16:17,585
Today, the idea of "sharing" the ascent
are rare, but still happen.
587
01:16:25,008 --> 01:16:29,833
He has changed a lot.
For me, it was incredible.
588
01:16:30,327 --> 01:16:36,715
It also became clear that the next year will be K2.
He asked if I would go.
589
01:16:38,366 --> 01:16:45,390
We agreed that this time will be a man,
woman and mountain.
And we began to train.
590
01:16:45,703 --> 01:16:49,434
We wanted to achieve a result.
But I realized that it will not long endure.
591
01:16:49,721 --> 01:16:55,081
I realized that the problem was
not in physical preparation and motivation.
592
01:16:56,941 --> 01:17:05,754
I felt that I had other dreams appear.
Did not want to climb more mountains. It was the desire to have children.
593
01:17:07,560 --> 01:17:14,168
This feverish life, which led to Reinhold,
I no longer liked.
594
01:17:19,767 --> 01:17:21,547
Base Camp. Reinhold
595
01:17:21,756 --> 01:17:25,550
K2, Pakistan, Tibet / China, 8611 meters
-
you are far away, and you sound very weak.
596
01:17:25,851 --> 01:17:28,172
How are you? Forces still remain?
597
01:17:49,623 --> 01:17:53,785
Messner climbed on K2 in record time
598
01:17:56,780 --> 01:18:04,641
Amazing climber. Great technique.
Smart, fearless, deserves respect.
599
01:18:05,010 --> 01:18:13,808
On the other hand - and boundless vanity
self-promotion,
does not respect nature and do not believe in God.
600
01:18:14,109 --> 01:18:18,020
Can not skip (forward) any climber.
601
01:18:18,323 --> 01:18:24,670
The only thing I'll never leave -
is my hobby - mountain climbing.
602
01:18:24,981 --> 01:18:31,277
Although it has become my profession, climbing
remain for me enthusiastically. Despite
popularity.
603
01:18:50,751 --> 01:18:56,083
I had everything I needed.
With experience, I could climb Everest without oxygen.
604
01:18:56,376 --> 01:19:00,706
Once I was able to climb the Nanga Parbat alone
it was possible to make a solo ascent of Everest.
605
01:19:00,999 --> 01:19:06,957
After climbing Everest with Peter Habeler
without oxygen, two years less than a day,
606
01:19:07,250 --> 01:19:12,283
that I have not thought about Everest, preparing themselves spiritually.
607
01:19:12,562 --> 01:19:16,189
And psychological preparation is
much more important than physical.
608
01:19:16,466 --> 01:19:23,900
Over two years, I went to sleep,
thinking about climbing Everest.
609
01:19:24,196 --> 01:19:27,779
And up in the morning with the idea of a solo ascent.
610
01:19:28,065 --> 01:19:33,902
Thus, all my motivation increased.
But Nepalese side refused to issue a permit.
611
01:19:34,195 --> 01:19:39,327
So I went to Beijing in 1979,
China and said: "Why not?"
612
01:19:39,610 --> 01:19:45,977
I asked the price of the permit, and they called for $ 80,000.
I did not have that kind of money.
613
01:19:46,244 --> 01:19:50,834
I sold all my stuff, including Porsche.
614
01:19:51,124 --> 01:19:55,061
Not knowing whether he will need me in the future.
And went to Everest.
615
01:19:57,528 --> 01:20:00,659
Everest
Solo, 1980
616
01:20:03,555 --> 01:20:09,263
It was the culmination of my mountaineering.
For me it was clear.
617
01:20:09,562 --> 01:20:14,163
I could not climb higher.
I could not do something more complex.
618
01:20:27,903 --> 01:20:33,649
One of the things that I admire in Reinhold
it is his perception: "I have what I do."
619
01:20:33,940 --> 01:20:40,752
For me, that's the gist of it.
This is his Sisyphean task.
620
01:20:41,040 --> 01:20:44,568
I find it a constant duress.
621
01:20:49,746 --> 01:20:57,240
After a solo ascent of Everest, appeared
interrelation
a new generation of colleagues and friends from South Tyrol.
622
01:20:57,546 --> 01:21:03,872
And I felt the need to do something
from what they have already given - Double ascent.
623
01:21:06,734 --> 01:21:13,234
Then he came to me and said Hans Kammerlander:
"If you can get everything ready, I am ready to go with you. "
624
01:21:13,532 --> 01:21:17,855
I was 40 years old and he was 28.
The ideal age for this.
625
01:21:20,204 --> 01:21:27,529
I wanted to climb Gasherbrum I in Pakistan ,
but did not know whether it will be a reality.
626
01:21:27,812 --> 01:21:33,042
I was worried about the safety,
as not very good climb,
627
01:21:33,324 --> 01:21:36,943
and did not know how the body
will respond to the high altitude.
628
01:21:37,217 --> 01:21:43,992
The rope. We'll take two
just in case, although we rarely use.
629
01:21:44,273 --> 01:21:51,515
About how we were equipped not taught in textbooks.
We had only 6 mm rope
630
01:21:52,532 --> 01:22:01,299
No safety arbors,
rope is tied around the waist.
631
01:22:03,001 --> 01:22:07,435
If we do not return for two weeks,
then we are lost, probably due to breakdown.
632
01:22:07,732 --> 01:22:12,725
Will not make any sense to send people on a quest
because we still do not find.
633
01:22:23,280 --> 01:22:27,590
It was not easy to learn.
I was not very experienced,
634
01:22:27,860 --> 01:22:34,216
and had to go at a good pace,
to keep up with Messner.
635
01:22:36,126 --> 01:22:40,428
I think that climbing to Reinhold - it all ..
636
01:22:40,724 --> 01:22:45,869
In it, he can express all ...
It is not expressed in other ways.
637
01:22:46,164 --> 01:22:54,420
Follow illusions grow internally, search ideals
pursue them, and thus, always go to end.
638
01:22:54,704 --> 01:23:04,199
Imagined something that turns into motivation
and then gets a special beauty.
639
01:23:25,979 --> 01:23:34,088
If he suddenly had an idea
abandon the plan and return
640
01:23:34,377 --> 01:23:39,573
I would agree at the time.
And he rejoiced at the top.
641
01:23:41,064 --> 01:23:45,771
I only had to climb to the top
and descend quickly.
642
01:23:46,093 --> 01:23:54,906
For him, it was just beginning. He had
internal need to continue to go to eight thousand.
643
01:23:59,591 --> 01:24:02,801
For me, this is the idea seemed silly.
It was not my intention.
644
01:24:03,097 --> 01:24:07,812
Secure, the base camp was far below.
645
01:24:08,126 --> 01:24:16,077
We hoped that there will be nothing wrong
and the only thing we wanted - to go down,
646
01:24:16,398 --> 01:24:21,393
where there was more air
and it was possible to feel more alive.
647
01:24:49,169 --> 01:24:54,262
I hung on the rope 10 minutes,
tied around his waist,
648
01:24:54,550 --> 01:24:59,196
unable to do anything.
649
01:24:59,514 --> 01:25:05,529
Another 15 minutes and I would have died.
I knew Reinhold could not get me out.
650
01:25:06,195 --> 01:25:09,242
Hans! Hans!
651
01:25:09,561 --> 01:25:18,959
When I fell into a crevasse,
backpack turned and hung on my leg.
652
01:25:38,048 --> 01:25:45,143
I had to try a hundred times,
until I was able to put on crampons.
653
01:26:26,292 --> 01:26:29,927
Rise was given to the limit forces.
I was almost unconscious.
654
01:26:30,238 --> 01:26:36,559
We had to make a bivouac
that was very "unpleasant."
655
01:26:37,852 --> 01:26:45,802
We spent a cold night, considerably froze.
Lights were seen at the bottom of the base camp.
656
01:26:46,104 --> 01:26:55,292
I thought only of tea and a warm sleeping bag.
Extreme fatigue did not allow to enjoy the surrounding beauty.
657
01:26:56,259 --> 01:27:01,298
On the other hand, this situation is
helped to determine what to do next.
658
01:27:15,088 --> 01:27:16,482
It took eight days.
659
01:27:23,249 --> 01:27:28,406
The next year I could pass it alone.
660
01:27:29,977 --> 01:27:33,305
Nothing more, nothing less. I'm ready.
661
01:27:39,981 --> 01:27:45,630
What we learn through mountaineering
exactly the opposite corresponds to what speak.
662
01:27:45,921 --> 01:27:53,650
What we do something heroic.
We are not afraid, and look death in the face.
663
01:27:53,925 --> 01:27:59,036
On the contrary, in the mountains we see how fragile we are.
664
01:27:59,339 --> 01:28:05,118
All horror ... and insecurity of this world.
665
01:28:15,279 --> 01:28:20,083
I can imagine how his mother asked
discontinue their studies.
666
01:28:20,369 --> 01:28:25,106
It so happened that my other brother, Siegfried,
also died on the ascent.
667
01:28:25,388 --> 01:28:32,250
She really asked him to stop,
because she was afraid of losing in the mountains more than one son.
668
01:28:32,528 --> 01:28:36,539
She saw great danger in the big mountains.
669
01:28:36,828 --> 01:28:44,926
I think that those who in childhood did not go to the mountains - will never be able to climb them.
For such people, it is meaningless.
670
01:28:53,026 --> 01:29:00,125
A year later, we went to conquer
the remaining two of his eight thousanders.
671
01:29:00,802 --> 01:29:03,395
For me it was not very good,
672
01:29:03,574 --> 01:29:08,394
Makalu, Nepal, Tibet / China, 8484 meters
-
because I felt
673
01:29:08,395 --> 01:29:14,413
Makalu, Nepal, Tibet / China, 8484 meters
-
there was a lot of competition for these vertices.
Who will make the first 14 x 8000?
674
01:29:14,913 --> 01:29:21,785
Lhotse, Nepal, Tibet / China, 8516 meters
-
So we climbed to the top of both
just to get rid of them.
675
01:29:25,110 --> 01:29:31,386
Eight thousand - it's just links in a chain.
Even today, it does not matter to me.
676
01:29:31,653 --> 01:29:35,063
I could tell after two eight-thousanders,
had enough.
677
01:29:35,335 --> 01:29:39,488
It was too dangerous, and I'll walk
normal routes with oxygen.
678
01:29:39,767 --> 01:29:46,169
So I would go through all 8000 matches in several years.
But this would not be anything other than monotony.
679
01:30:24,987 --> 01:30:28,304
1970 - 1986
25 attempts, 18 ascents
680
01:30:30,797 --> 01:30:33,755
RECOGNITION
681
01:30:37,392 --> 01:30:41,906
GAURISHANKAR, Nepal, Tibet / China, 7134 m
-
In fact, I respect the mountain.
682
01:30:42,172 --> 01:30:45,326
In a large aura of the sacred mountains.
683
01:30:45,689 --> 01:30:49,168
At a vertex does not need to climb.
684
01:30:49,437 --> 01:30:52,618
Mountains, which climb, have become commonplace.
685
01:30:53,150 --> 01:30:56,650
Kailash Tibet / China, 6714 meters
-
686
01:30:56,651 --> 01:30:59,383
Kailash Tibet / China, 6714 meters
-
I got the first license to Kailash
687
01:30:59,666 --> 01:31:05,903
but then I realized, like a mountain deeply respected by local residents who walked around her.
688
01:31:06,185 --> 01:31:09,822
Then I gave up on the ascent -
there will be no ropes or hooks,
689
01:31:10,103 --> 01:31:15,154
no climbers with Sherpas raping mountain.
690
01:31:17,222 --> 01:31:24,271
I have studied mythology about Milarepa
who could fly through the air
691
01:31:24,544 --> 01:31:27,056
the speed of light, just imagine.
692
01:31:27,740 --> 01:31:31,168
Machapuchare, Nepal, 6997 meters
693
01:31:34,015 --> 01:31:37,382
Not only Moses came down from Mount Sinai
with 10 commandments.
694
01:31:37,656 --> 01:31:42,028
Muhammad meditates on Mount Hira,
and receives the consecration of Allah.
695
01:31:42,316 --> 01:31:48,851
Buddha meditating in the Himalayas down to the disciples in the valley, and spreads his teachings.
696
01:31:52,604 --> 01:31:56,749
They climbed mountains,
because it appears as an overall picture
697
01:31:57,030 --> 01:32:02,714
enlightenment, as the top
vision of a lot better than the bottom.
698
01:32:09,775 --> 01:32:13,707
To my surprise, he was fascinated by Milarepa.
699
01:32:13,978 --> 01:32:22,086
Teacher he was assigned many challenges,
like Sisyphus in our culture.
700
01:32:25,537 --> 01:32:33,661
Although he knows that there will be no end.
Maybe he took it.
701
01:32:34,507 --> 01:32:39,861
Maybe just adopted as a goal, as karma.
702
01:32:55,477 --> 01:32:59,162
I was curious what happened 400 years ago.
703
01:32:59,447 --> 01:33:04,247
Sherpas - people who migrated
Tibet from Nepal.
704
01:33:04,550 --> 01:33:10,337
Caravan of 20,000 people and 20,000 yaks
crossed the pass Nangpala height of about 6000 meters.
705
01:33:10,607 --> 01:33:15,190
I went this route - 2,000 kilometers.
706
01:33:15,482 --> 01:33:21,289
It was also interesting how all 8000 matches together
combined.
So I decided to put this and loans.
707
01:33:21,582 --> 01:33:26,833
I crossed the great desert:
Gobi and Taklimakan Central Sahara.
708
01:33:27,120 --> 01:33:32,901
Then I went to the icy deserts - the North
and South Poles, as I admire Shackleton and
Nansen.
709
01:33:33,275 --> 01:33:35,554
All measurements are different adventures.
710
01:33:36,137 --> 01:33:41,326
ANTARCTICA
Crossing, 1989/90
711
01:33:49,249 --> 01:33:53,810
GEOGRAPHIC SOUTH POLE
712
01:34:00,808 --> 01:34:05,126
I never so much not happy tent.
713
01:34:07,070 --> 01:34:10,693
GREENLAND
Crossing, 1993
714
01:34:11,376 --> 01:34:18,232
We crossed Greenland along for 34 days
Although the expedition was planned for 90 days.
715
01:34:35,448 --> 01:34:42,690
We were so excited about this expedition.
And for dessert, we went to the North Pole.
716
01:34:42,971 --> 01:34:44,781
NORTH POLE
Crossing, 1995
717
01:34:51,833 --> 01:34:55,920
Our goal was to get from Russia to Canada
over the North Pole.
718
01:35:00,807 --> 01:35:07,801
From the outset, we realized that this expedition
be very different from Greenland and the South
pole.
719
01:35:28,537 --> 01:35:35,789
One night, we went to sleep,
but then something woke us.
720
01:35:53,787 --> 01:35:57,461
Temperature reaches -48 ° C.
721
01:36:30,746 --> 01:36:35,477
Gunther!
722
01:36:41,794 --> 01:36:47,930
In this stressful situation, he thought Gunther, Fear surfaced again.
723
01:36:48,216 --> 01:36:55,095
We knew that he believed
he could not find his younger brother.
724
01:37:00,361 --> 01:37:06,757
I said I am not Gunther.
But in another dangerous situation he called me again.
725
01:37:24,522 --> 01:37:29,779
On the anniversary of his death we decided to go to Gunther, a small group to Nanga Parbat.
726
01:37:30,292 --> 01:37:32,277
FAREWELL
727
01:37:32,463 --> 01:37:41,889
Wolfgang and Hans Peter, wandering through the moraine saw the clothes and bones found there.
728
01:37:42,678 --> 01:37:51,089
Reinhold was confident that it can only be 2 man.
He brought home the bones and sent them for analysis.
729
01:37:52,233 --> 01:37:58,816
The fact that it turned out the bones of our brother,
was a big relief for the family .
730
01:37:59,147 --> 01:38:03,224
That's why we went with the whole family on Nanga Parbat.
731
01:38:03,507 --> 01:38:06,097
In front there are hollow huge cracks.
732
01:38:06,380 --> 01:38:10,614
Walking on the left of the two cracks
are visible to the naked eye.
733
01:38:10,898 --> 01:38:15,154
And when there is accumulated snow
it must go straight.
734
01:38:18,286 --> 01:38:22,724
He's going to build a school.
And then there is the idea to build a hospital.
735
01:38:22,994 --> 01:38:27,669
We had the opportunity to feel the land.
736
01:38:28,174 --> 01:38:34,428
Visit the school ...
737
01:38:34,734 --> 01:38:36,989
This reunion ...
738
01:38:47,843 --> 01:38:51,820
I think it was a special moment.
739
01:38:58,910 --> 01:39:03,373
It was very important for all the brothers
and our sisters.
740
01:39:03,664 --> 01:39:09,660
We were able to go there and see with our own eyes.
741
01:39:09,982 --> 01:39:15,320
Know where actually buried our brother.
742
01:39:20,480 --> 01:39:27,501
Over time, we must acknowledge
that we, the people, breaking up like mountains.
743
01:39:27,830 --> 01:39:34,426
Mountains crumble and turn into desert.
And we are slowly disappearing. Old age is killing us.
744
01:39:34,728 --> 01:39:43,802
But we do not suffer, and do make choices, day after day.
As I was young, step by step.
745
01:39:44,098 --> 01:39:49,877
Life - it's a kind of arch between birth and
death.
Admit it - is an art.
746
01:39:50,736 --> 01:39:56,311
This art is "climbing", recognition of their
capabilities
and understanding of what you're allowed.
747
01:39:56,599 --> 01:39:58,393
- Or as Milarepa did...
748
01:39:58,608 --> 01:40:03,521
I can not ride on the rays of light.
749
01:40:12,003 --> 01:40:22,033
That's the quiet joy of Sisyphus.
He owns his fate. Stone - his heritage.
A struggle for the heights is enough to fill
the human heart. Should imagine Sisyphus happy.
750
01:40:22,333 --> 01:40:27,205
Albert Camus
"The Myth of Sisyphus"
751
01:40:28,000 --> 01:41:31,083
Subtitles by Essam Ali from Pakistan
for feedback : essam_ari@yahoo.com
76783
Can't find what you're looking for?
Get subtitles in any language from opensubtitles.com, and translate them here.