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[Music]
[Music]
an intricately marbled cut of meat this
is Japan's world-famous Courbet beef it
comes from cows raised for three years
using strict guidelines Japan delights
gourmets with steak yakitori sukiyaki
tonkatsu and other meat dishes but for
1,200 years Japan actually prohibited
meat consumption as we'll see
rice played a role in that ban this time
on jabber knology plus we look at some
cultural features of meat eating in
Japan
[Music]
[Music]
hello welcome to Japan on G+ I'm Peter
Barca in recent years there seems to be
an increasing number of vegans around
the world
so today's program may have limited
appeal we're going to be talking about
meat we're a carnivore like myself
Japan has plenty to offer in that area I
mean core bear city which is world
famous for its beef so much so that in
2009 when President Barack Obama came to
Japan Kobe beef was firmly on his wish
list these days you'll find a wide
variety of meat in any Japanese
supermarket but regular consumption of
meat has only been widespread in Japan
for about 50 years and in the past
several hundreds of years the eating of
meat was actually prohibited in Japan on
today's program we'll take a look at the
reasons for that and what brought about
the change in attitudes in recent years
for many people the phrase Japanese food
conjures up images of fish rather than
meat but let's ask some people what they
like to eat the Japanese diet has
changed dramatically over the past 50
years
in 1960 the average person ate only 3.5
kilograms of meat per year but by 2017
that figure was thirty two point seven
kilos nearly ten times as much by
comparison
seafood consumption stood at just twenty
four point four kilos and that amount is
in decline
a Tokyo department store in sight is a
specialist meat counter
there are separate sections for chicken
beef and pork prices are higher here
than they would be at a supermarket
chicken thigh is about 400 yen for 100
grams pork loin is 670 yen for 100 grams
and beef loin 2500 yen for 100 grams
each cut is individually wrapped
[Music]
so what meat dishes are popular in Japan
[Music]
steak and fried chicken are common
worldwide but Japan also offers some
unique takes on dishes featuring me one
example is sukiyaki beef fat is melted
in a special pattern thin strips of beef
are frying then you add sugar and soy
sauce
[Music]
when the meat is browned on both sides
it's dipped in beaten egg before being
eaten next is shabu shabu thin strips of
meat are cooked by swishing them around
in a pan of boiling stock they are eaten
with sesame or citrus sources after the
mead you add vegetables like mushrooms
greens and carrots
this is yakitori bite-sized pieces of
chicken cooked on skewers over a
charcoal grill
[Music]
there are two main types of seasoning
salt or padam tatah is a sweet thick soy
based source countless other dishes
including con katsu and nikujaga feature
meat cooked or seasons in a
japanese-style yakiniku restaurants
where you grill meat at your table exist
in huge numbers plans are especially
popular with younger diners
[Music]
mutton and lamb are also eaten in Japan
for example they are used in genius gun
a dish cooked on a specially don't grill
Thanks the dishes like these meat takes
up an increasingly large portion of the
Japanese diet this time on Japanese A+
our guest is Knoblauch Harada a
professor at Kukushkin University his
work shines a light on Japanese culinary
culture and the key developments in its
history we're at a top-class
steak restaurant in central Corbin the
chef a 10-year veteran serves Kobe beef
one of Japan's three most renowned
varieties here's the main ingredient I
think this is the first time I've ever
eaten haven't eaten yet at a restaurant
with a Michelin star so I'm sure we're
in for something special with beef of
this quality I'm sure it's going to set
my bankaccount back quite a bit perhaps
we should find out how much before we
eat today's beef cost 16,000 yen for a
hundred grams okay
just to be prepared thank you when it
comes to top-class beef prices like that
and no surprise for most people eating
this kind of food is a
once-in-a-lifetime experience
the two diners I the small piece of
frying meat apprehensively how does it
how often do you eat me say how many
days of the week
quite often I'd say at least four days a
week
something like that I'm probably
something like that the actual amount of
meat
in one time it's probably not an awful
lot
it looks good it smell good and even
sounds good you can enjoy it with every
one of your senses after browning you
let it cook very slowly what happens
then
well the juices are trapped inside that
boosts the umami and the meat becomes
wonderfully soft
sharpness of the knife is amazing the
way you slice it changes the taste yes
you're supposed to cut it in such a way
that the juices stay in if you're
careless you damage the tissue of the
meat and that will let the juices escape
even high quality meats its heavily in
the stomach if you eat too much and a
normal-sized portion of beef like this
would cost a fortune so the restaurant
serves portions of 100 to 150 grams it's
tender and absolutely full of flavor it
really literally melts in the mouth when
it's cooking and when you eat it the
meat gives off a unique scent we call
that the Wagyu aroma took a what to say
that was just fantastic when you talk
about Japanese food immediately the the
things that come to mind uh sushi and
sashimi and tempered on a lot of things
that use fish but according to recent
statistics it seems that Japanese people
in general are now actually eating more
meat than fish which is it was a little
bit surprising to me when I first heard
that today Japanese people eat lots of
meat but up until relatively recently
things were very different
they still ate a great deal of fish it
really was a very recent change today
we're here in this restaurant having
this amazing
Kobe beef but for hundreds of years
there was a prohibition against Japanese
people eating meat so let's take a look
at why and how that happened how did the
Japanese relationship with me develop
through history over 10,000 years ago
Japanese people hunted and ate deer wild
boar and other animals but when rice
cultivation arrived fire the Korean
Peninsula three thousand years ago the
new club began to dominate the diet
[Music]
in the late sixth century Buddhism came
to Japan the religion forbids killing
and so as it spread meat consumption
declined
[Music]
one particularly devout Buddhist was the
10 new emperor in 675 he banned the
consumption of animal meat an act that
made an enormous impact on the national
diet it marked the beginning of a 1200
year period of prohibition the ban
finally came to an end during the Meiji
Restoration
when lifestyle shifted to follow a more
Western model in 1872 the Meiji Emperor
revoked the prohibition of meat and
began eating it himself he said I didn't
do it for my health it was necessary as
a way to build better relationships with
foreigners national isolation had ended
and meat-eating was now regarded as
vital for international exchange
[Music]
as meat had been banned for so long at
first the public at launch didn't take
to him but people experimented using
condiments like soy sauce and miso and
they created dishes that suited the
Japanese palate beef in particular
became a symbol of westernization and
among earlier doctors miso beef hot pots
were popular soon enough meat-eating
had spread across the whole country
[Music]
yakitori I mean just the aroma events
enough to make your mouth water enough
something as good as this
it's amazing that for so long Japanese
people weren't allowed to eat this now
the burn on eating meat was what twelve
hundred years in 675 the ten new emperor
introduced what we call the ban on meat
the animals the ban covered were cows
horses chickens dogs and monkeys which
are very similar to humans but the ban
only applied to those five animals
everything else including wild boar and
venison was still allowed also the ban
only applied from the time rice was
planted to when it was harvested just
that period in other words those animals
couldn't be killed and eaten between
April and September the leaders of the
past thought that if people ate meat
during those times they wouldn't make a
good rice that's what the people in
charge believed what was the logic for
not being able to grow the rice properly
of people reading meat
for the Japanese rice is a sacred food
rice or rice based products like sake
and mochi rice cakes are used as
offerings at shrines rice was a sacred
offering to the deities but meat on the
other hand was seen as unclean that at
least is the view that took hold after
the ten move Emperor issued his ban if
you became ritually impure were there
certain particular things that happened
to you or did people think so people
believed that meat-eating would cause
blindness or contort your mouth they
were common superstitions they even
believed that the impurity could spread
from person to person so if person a ate
meat they were impure for 100 days after
100 days had passed they would be back
to normal but if they shared a meal with
person B during that time B was impure
for 30 days so a ate meat and B didn't
but the fact that a and B ate together
was enough to make the impurity spread
for 30 days yes 30 and let's say there's
a person C who's never even met a if C
eats with B then C becomes impure for 7
days but the impurity disappears beyond
that okay so if you're d you're cool and
other particular periods within that
twelve hundred years when the
prohibitions were particularly severe or
perhaps were more lenient the
limitations were at their most strict in
the 17th to 19th centuries the Edo
period at that time rice was used to
measure the value of everything from the
size of settlements to the economic
power of Lords
therefore the cultivation of rice spread
for political reasons meat was seen as
the unclean opposite of rice and that is
why it was shunned in the Edo period and
that lasted all the way through to the
end of the Edo period like two hundred
and fifty years there was a degree of
flexibility for example people with
frail health could eat meat to get their
strength back it was seen as a kind of
medicine people also used that kind of
logic so again this is an indication
that despite it being strictly
prohibited people did want to eat it
they did like eating meat so they found
a way to get around the problem to the
prohibitions that's right in the past
Japanese people ate a lot of wild boar
and deer they were known as whales of
the mountains and people ate them
because they were seen as more like fish
than Mitsuwa taisha shrine is
particularly famous for selling a
talisman that called a venison permit if
you had that you could eat deer so there
were loopholes like that
Japan's famous for the whole idea of
umami which Japanese take from things
like seaweed in other countries I think
they would get the same kind of thing
from meat especially from the the fat
would it be logical to assume the
Japanese went to all these lengths of
finding and women other things because
they weren't eating meat a lot of
countries use animal fat in their
cooking as a source of but in Japan meat
eating was ostensibly banned so people
made sure to avoid meat when cooking
formally that's why people used seaweed
or fish for umami flavor we saw that
development in the aro period when the
restrictions on meat consumption were
most severe we have the best of both
worlds these days yes indeed in the
modern era we have yakitori like this
sukiyaki tonkatsu and so on we've
developed an approach to food where meat
and fish are equally enjoyable
[Music]
wanky is the name for native Japanese
cattle where is Japan and kill refers to
beef the exquisitely marbled beef that
these breeds produce has made a name for
itself all over the world
[Music]
hi I'm Matt alt and this is plus one
today I'm deep in the mountains of me a
Prefecture in a little town called
Matsuzaka this is where they raised
Matsuzaka cattle which are used to make
Matsusaka beef one of the most famous
brands of Wagyu in all of Japan there's
lots of tips and tricks and techniques
to making this beef taste so good and
that's what I'm gonna check out on
today's episode as you can see I've had
to change into a special protective
outfit this isn't to protect me it's to
protect the cows from any germs that we
humans bring in as you can see it's not
just me but the whole crew hello there
thank you for having me today
tell me all about not to suck on you
let's get started
Matt disinfects his shoes first of all
how many cattle do you have here 55 the
three most prominent types of yq--
Matsuzaka only and Colbert all use carbs
from Tajima in her goal but they're
raised in different climates using
different techniques
Matsusaka beef includes a special
variety that is made using virgin female
Tajima cattle fattened for over 900 days
to produce a top-class meat hygiene
management is taken very seriously on
average 50 to 100 animals are raised at
each farm and in principle they don't
graze outside instead farmers take
personal care of each one of them
do you feed them any special types of
food we perfected our feed over many
years it's a blend of oats wheat bran
corn and soybeans this looks like a
really nice premium breakfast cereal you
can eat it it's tasty go ahead it's
pretty good Wow it's like muesli this is
really good as we slowly fatten the cows
the aroma and sweetness of the grain is
absorbed those qualities get right into
the meat so what are we doing here
messaging the cows is this also key to
why matsuzaka beef tastes so good that's
right
massaging them improves this circulation
it also reduces stress can I give it a
try go right ahead
this is fun
hey we paid a visit to another nearby
farm
well first of all it's so clean and nice
in here it's oh yes you want stress-free
cows with a good appetite hygiene is a
part of that creating an appropriate
living environment for the cows is
clearly an important key to success
as I understand it Matsuzaka beef is
famed for how marbled it is is there
some special way to get that after we
receive a calf the first year is
make-or-break we have to fatten them up
then we feed them a set amount for three
years and that creates wonderfully
marbled meat well I met the cows now
it's time to eat the meat
what does Matsuzaka beef taste like this
is my first time trying it and this
restaurant which is established in 1902
is famed for its Matsuzaka beef
follow me well this is it
the main course sukiyaki give us
cornerguy CMOS the meat so what do you
think makes Matsuzaka beef taste
different from other types of these oh
my god there we see this me sukiyaki
needs about the decided though to mess
it up I can see it's very marbled hey so
there's a necklace with similar - isn't
it okay well that's we say in Japan
ether lucky mas look at this
[Music]
oh wow it's incredibly mild but get rich
at the same time I wouldn't meet doc I
meet though you love allah almighty said
oh thank you so much for cooking for me
today well there you have it the
legendary Matsusaka beef of japan next
time you come to Japan keep an eye out
for wonderful brands of meat like this
and restaurants where people will cook
it for you
it's a great place to have a party or
like me just enjoy yourself that's what
I'll be doing until you tune in again
next time
this whole thing with marbled beef
really is a big deal why do you think
that is it's actually not limited to
just beef people in Japan also really
enjoy fatty fish there's a strong
conviction that flesh containing fat
tastes better than other varieties and
because we believe that marbled meat is
delicious I would say that this is what
we've always sought as we developed our
knowledge and technology on the other
hand when I was first here at in Japan
you didn't used to hear about his
marbled beef with something that one
hurt started hearing about a little more
recently I think again I'm sure there
must be a reason for that beef imports
were liberalized in 1991 and then a
large volume of cheap beef arrived from
countries like the United States when
that happened
Japan's livestock farmers were forced to
differentiate their products they needed
a way to make their products stand out
the quality they decided to pursue was
taste they aimed to develop a marbled
beef that melts in the mouth a style of
meat that wasn't found in other
countries that was their goal or today
definitely has been a bit of a treat but
living in Japan and you eat I mean a lot
of different kinds of meat and there are
things that we all take for granted
which are really quite simple
for example there's strips of pork
cooked with ginger and onions which is
something that I first met when I first
came to Japan 40 something years ago
don't think twice about but there are
these things that you really don't get
outside of Japan and they have all these
absolutely delicious ways of cooking
regular not expensively and I think
perhaps it's worth mentioning those
things because they are part of
the Japanese food culture and anybody
can partake of them anytime for very
very reasonable amounts of money it's
true that marbled beef commands a high
price tag but Japan certainly does make
cheap and delicious dishes available to
everyone as well meat based cuisine is
booming that I'm thankful that such
fantastic food is available on an
everyday basis thank you very much thank
you very much Japan has developed
top-of-the-range meat like corbeil beef
as well as cheap and casual dishes that
anyone can enjoy this broad assortment
adds to the rich variety of Japanese
cuisine
[Music]
next time on Japanese Plus popular
theater we explore a unique style of
performance with a broad appeal that has
lasted for hundreds of years
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