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[Music]
[Music]
Japan's castles are a legacy of the
samurai era to maintain their splendor
they sometimes require intricate repairs
such as moving a heavy key replacing
countless roof tiles or rebuilding walls
made of thousands of stones to preserve
these priceless historical and cultural
treasures requires a huge investment in
April 2016 Kumamoto Castle suffered
heavy earthquake damage restoration work
began soon after this time on Japanese
plus we'll examine the art of restoring
Japanese castles
[Music]
[Music]
hello and welcome to Jaffa knology plus
MP American our theme for today
restoring castles might seem a little
bit richer say in fact Japan does have a
large number of castles and restoration
work is quite common I mean Hirosaki in
almaty Prefecture in the far north of
Japan and the castle here is actually an
undergoing extensive restoration work at
the moment on top of that stone wall
behind me here you would normally expect
to see the main castle building but it's
vanished and we'll tell you where it's
gone in just a little while this is how
a hirosaki castle usually looks the keep
Rises nearly 15 meters above the stone
wall it was constructed in 1810 during
the samurai era as one of japan's few
original castles still standing today it
is a designated important cultural
property
kirisaki castle is surrounded by cherry
blossom trees it's one of japan's most
popular spots for viewing the blossoms
[Music]
during the 600 years of the samurai era
many castles were built sadly most were
destroyed as a result of shifting
political fortunes earthquakes and even
air raids today Japan has more than 90
castles with keeps many re constructions
done in the past 150 years nationwide
there are 12 castles whose original
keeps from earlier times are still
standing
[Music]
the oldest of these originals were built
around 400 years ago all have undergone
large-scale repairs at some point in
order to preserve their beauty and
historical significance hello hello nice
to see you again nice to see you too I
guess for today is mr. Yoshiki door
sender who's an archaeologist
specializing in castles who was a guest
on this program a couple of years ago
and you're also a member of the
restoration committee for hirosaki
castle I know let's talk a little bit
about what happened to the main castle
keep here which is disappeared from
where it should be a missing keep does
make you wonder but it's in a safe place
let me show you where the keep is now
okay come this way this is the castle
keep Wow
less than a minutes walk away is the
keep what is it doing here actually the
keep normally stands on those stone
walls over there but those walls the one
supporting the keep were damaged in
order to repair the stone walls the keep
was lifted set on Rails and moved 80
meters I mean this is a fairly large
structure and I assume it's pretty heavy
as well how do they do that
they lifted it hydraulically intact as
it was and then moved it the keep of
hirosaki castle weighs about 400 tons in
June 2015 the project to move it began
in earnest
the plan was to lift the keep from the
walls in one piece and move it to a
temporary foundation it was important to
avoid the cherry blossom trees so the
keep would have to change direction
twice on its 80 meter trip even for the
building movers who took on the project
all of them local experts it was a
serious challenge no blueprints of the
keep existed and due to its age many of
its walls and columns had cracks
moreover the entire structure was
leaning by about 30 centimeters without
fixing that first it might fall to
pieces when moved but hirosaki castle is
an important cultural property risking
damage was out of the question
[Music]
in July 2015
materials begin arriving on site first
to be delivered are 16 long steel
girders the keep has 11 interior columns
they will be held firmly in place by the
steel girders then the girders will be
jacked up to lift the building but the
other fifty two columns are encased
within walls and cannot be lifted that
way
so the plan is to use z-shaped steel
brackets like this to raise all the
walls at the same time as all the
girders the work of installing the steel
girders begins wooden bumpers prevent
the girders from damaging the wood
columns at this point a problem is
discovered there is not enough space
under the walls for the brackets to be
fully inserted the plan must be changed
I think we'll have to use a claw Jack a
claw Jack can lift a wall even if it
cannot be fully inserted underneath but
these ones operate independently from
the jacks under the girders there are 27
Jack's fitted to lift the columns and
ten independent clawed jacks everything
must be controlled separately if they
are not kept perfectly in sync the key
will break up all the jacks are reached
for remote operation on the left side of
the control panel are the jacks for the
columns on the right the ones for the
walls first the leaning keep is levelled
out this task is carried out by
coordinating with workers inside the
structure
you ready go the hydraulic pressure is
gradually increased in the jags for the
walls and columns
the amount of vertical travel of each
column is monitored with millimeter
precision five to go
five to go okay to lift the key while
simultaneously leveling it out demands
constant split-second decisions about
which jacks to operate the lean is
corrected and the keep successfully
lifted off its foundation by sixty
centimeters without causing any cracks
in the walls or columns now it's time to
move the key
[Music]
eighteen dollars under the girders allow
the keep to roll along a set of rails it
is moved in 30 centimeter increments the
direction changes are negotiated
smoothly over a period of two months the
keep travels the 80 meters to its
temporary foundation where it is
successfully fixed in place
[Music]
the move of the two-hundred-year-old
castle keep is a success
now the next step of the restoration can
commence fixing the damaged stone walls
so here we are right beside one of the
stone walls over there at the highest
point is the foundation of the keep the
keep stood there now take a look at the
stone wall in front of us here I think
you'll be able to see places where it
needs a repair it's pretty clear that
bit over there is it's quite flat and
straight but it's kind of bulging out
here isn't it the stone walls have
deformed over time originally this
surface was flat but now it has a bulge
I don't think that is due to any
mistaken construction it's probably a
side effect of the original terrain I
think that's the most likely cause
before this castle was constructed there
would have been channels in the ground
little dips or valleys groundwater would
tend to gather in places like that over
time the water would make the soil here
softer than in other locations where the
soil is weak the wall will bulge I think
that's what happened so in order to
restore the wall to its original state
what kind of work has to be done first
we must confirm the condition of the
wall that must be assessed accurately
then each stone will be numbered that
way the original position of each stone
can be tracked then the stones will be
removed one by one every single one yes
stones that are broken will not be
reused they will be replaced with new
ones stones that are still usable
will be returned to precisely their
original locations to make the stone
wall nice and flat again that's what
they'll do any idea
how long and how much money is going to
cost to finish this repair work overall
the work is expected to take seven to
eight years and the estimated cost is
somewhere around two billion yen in fact
another Japanese castle is currently
undergoing restoration of its stone
walls come in a castle in Fukushima in
the 2011 earthquake its walls collapsed
in ten places as of 2016
restoration is ongoing about 7,000
stones fell in all first each one was
photographed from various angles the
photos are compared to photos of the
wall before the quake to determine where
each stone was placed based on this data
a blueprint was made for placing the
stones back to rebuild the wall
artisans Rhys tack the designated stones
carefully adjusting each one's position
to ensure they fit together properly
they can only put back five or six
stones per day on average completion of
the restoration work is projected for
2019 at a total cost of about five
billion yen what other kinds of
restoration projects are going on in
Japan every Castle is different when it
comes to which keeps and watch towers
and gates are original structures and
which are reconstructions numerous
restorations and reconstructions are
always going on Japan's wooden
architecture requires maintenance with
proper upkeep structures can last
centuries or even a millennium without
that care they become dilapidated so
this kind of repair work has been going
on for centuries in fact with the
buildings what kind of repair work is
done himeji castle in he'll go
prefecture is one of the most famous
examples today himeji castle looks
absolutely beautiful that's actually
thanks to large-scale repairs in the mid
20th century the huge main keep of the
castle was entirely disassembled it
completely took it apart yes before the
restoration work began they discovered a
major problem they found that the main
keep was leaning slightly and further
investigation showed that the most
important of its supporting columns was
damaged so the column itself needed to
be removed a complete disassembly was
required and that's what they did when
they take apart a building and then
rebuild it do they rebuild it exactly
the way it was hundreds of years ago
or do they modernize in some instances
each structure that is part of a castle
has its own historical the goal is to
accurately restore each to its
Regional Forum it should be returned to
the way it looked before but Japan is
subject to major earthquakes and even
the best architecture of the samurai era
doesn't measure up to today's seismic
standards it's a constant challenge so
beneath the historical structure itself
a proper anti-seismic foundation is
usually built during the restoration a
solid foundation helps to preserve a
building like himeji castle then it can
serve as a cultural and historical
landmark that can be safely visited by
everyone himeji castle a designated
national treasure and a unesco world
heritage site built 400 years ago the so
called White Heron castle reopened in
2015 after its first major repairs in 50
years
[Music]
the castles trademark pristine white
appearance comes from traditionally
plastered walls the plaster is a mixture
of lime seaweed and other natural
ingredients it has a creamy consistency
a major goal of the recent restoration
was cleaning up the damaged exterior
decades of weathering had caused the
plaster to flake off from many of the
castles walls
in 2009 the keep was enclosed in
scaffolding for repairs it was a huge
project that cost 2.4 billion yen first
came an exhaustive inspection of the
keeps walls damage to the plaster was
assessed by tapping it and listening to
the sound damaged plaster was then
stripped off
underneath deep decay was found in the
thick walls of the keeps top floor this
affected even the wooden supporting
lattices so the walls of the top floor
were removed entirely including the
lattices and rebuilt first though came a
tough hurdle the original lattices were
made of slender straight saplings of
hard durable woods like oak and cherry
materials no longer easy to obtain it
took three months to gather enough
saplings 700 were brought to him aji
castle and used to build new supporting
lattices for the keeps top floor over
each lattice claim mixed with straw was
added
then finally it was time to plaster six
coats were applied from the start of
construction it took six years to
complete the rebuilding of the top floor
warns this large-scale repair also
included reroofing the entire keep with
its roughly 75,000 roof tiles every
single tile was removed and inspected
once found to be damaged were replaced
[Music]
then the tiles too were freshly
plastered over the plaster holds them in
place preventing them from blowing away
in high winds
this massive project required five years
and 15,000 man days to complete hi I'm
Matt Alt I've always loved building
Japanese model kits Matt drops inna to
tokyo-based maker of plastic models of
course today he's come to see their
castle models ah this must be the
display room yes look at all these
really cool little airplanes and ships
and stuff and here are the castles hello
there
these castles are so cool how many
varieties of these do you sell about 50
different models
is there a large demand for plastic
models of castles in Japan yes they are
popular with all ages from small
children to the elderly
they say that anyone who's ever built
models has put together a castle at some
point Matt is going to build a model of
a huge castle
here's the himeji castle kit let's take
off the lid see what we have inside
instructions can't forget those and
these are the sprues that the parts come
on this looks like the roof and here we
have the base the stone fortifications
that support the castle the kit even
comes with this green powder that
simulates grass and this green foam used
to simulate shrubs and trees so here we
go first comes the painting grassy areas
must not only be painted green but also
sprinkled with this powder made from
sawdust to give texture that
the wall part is painted gray to make it
look like stone
[Music]
next up I'm going to paint the roof now
one of the things about himeji castle is
it has a really distinctive white roof
this plastic model however is molded in
gray so you have to kind of add the
color yourself yeah now it's time to
detach the parts and assemble them oh
yes yes yes yes if I do say so myself
and there you have it the central keep
of the castle labor that three hours
later
check it out Himeji Castle in miniature
nice work Matt
[Music]
in April 2016 amid a series of major
earthquakes Kumamoto castle was severely
damaged the kief lost its roof tiles
portions of the stone walls collapsed
valuable structures were wrecked
[Music]
one Watchtower was left in a very
precarious condition along with 13
important cultural properties the walls
were damaged in 53 places repairs are
expected to cost over 30 billion yen
Kumamoto castle has faced the threat of
destruction many times in its 400 year
history in the 1870s a mystery fire
burned down the keep and other
structures in 1889 an earthquake
collapsed its stone walls and damaged
many watchtowers and other buildings the
castle was not repaired but left to fall
into ruin the keep was not rebuilt until
83 years after it burned down the castle
had been the symbol of Kumamoto for four
centuries many local people wanted to
see it restored and they donated funds
to the project
in 1960 their wishes were realized when
reconstruction was completed ever since
the castle has remained the pride of
Kumamoto but in the recent disaster the
lighting of the castle was damaged it
used to look beautiful at night the city
was robbed of that popular and local
scene the city government received a
flood of requests asking for the castle
to be lit up again even though the
castle is damaged we have received many
requests to restore the lighting our
citizens are eager for Kumamoto castle
to be lit up again they wanted to serve
as a shining beacon a symbol of hope for
the future of this community after being
forced from their homes by the disaster
the many local people living in
temporary housing finally had something
to smile about 45 days after the quake
[Music]
soon thereafter work on clearing the
stones from the collapse balls began in
earnest as Kumamoto began its long
journey to recovery
[Music]
when we first met two years ago we went
to see Kumamoto castle since then
there's a Miss April there were those
terrible earthquakes and the castle
sustained really terrible damage I
presume you've been there since then yes
I did go and I was shocked at how bad
the damage was
do you think it'll be possible to get
something at least close to what it was
it will be a huge undertaking I do
believe it's possible but until the
stone walls are rebuilt in a way that is
stable and secure the watch towers and
gates and other buildings that stand on
top of them cannot be restored and I
think it will take a very long time to
repair the walls I think it may take
even as long as 20 years but there is
another aspect to this repairs to the
stone walls are required on a vast scale
what that means is that many stonemasons
will have a fresh chance to hone their
skills as they work on repairs to
Kumamoto Castle and that's not all it
will be an opportunity for the next
generation to learn those techniques and
then they will be able to repair other
castle walls around Japan that's what I
hope so you're gonna get a whole new
generation of craftsmen and of course
nobody wants these terrible earthquakes
to happen but as a result of all the
damage if these specialized skills get
passed down to a new generation then
perhaps it wasn't all for nothing or at
least one would like to hope so actually
the stone walls of Kumamoto Castle are
considered by many to be the finest in
all of Japan that's how important they
are
today's stonemasons will be working on
these four hundred year old masterpieces
of stone wall construction they'll be
doing this work with their own hands I
think that restoring the walls to how
they should be is a wonderful challenge
let's wish him all the best of luck
thank you very much thank you
[Music]
next time volcanoes or inspiring and
destructive volcanoes are found all over
Japan how half the Japanese come to
terms with this force of nature
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