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The wild pacific coast
of vancouver island.
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00:00:09,126 --> 00:00:11,376
An ancient and rugged landscape
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00:00:11,387 --> 00:00:14,263
Off the western shore
of british columbia.
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00:00:17,885 --> 00:00:21,437
From the icy peaks
of age-old mountain glaciers...
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00:00:23,474 --> 00:00:27,484
...To the fog-shrouded canopies
of canada's only rainforest,
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00:00:29,655 --> 00:00:33,032
This is the wettest place
in north america.
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00:00:34,485 --> 00:00:36,234
A primitive habitat
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00:00:36,245 --> 00:00:40,155
Where the pacific ocean
holds the key to life.
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00:00:40,166 --> 00:00:42,082
>> that's why this is one
of the most remarkable places
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00:00:42,159 --> 00:00:43,792
On earth.
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00:00:45,162 --> 00:00:47,755
>> a land locked in time,
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00:00:47,831 --> 00:00:51,249
Where nature
and the human spirit coexist.
13
00:00:51,260 --> 00:00:55,262
>> it's just everything you'd
want if you're an adventurous
person.
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00:00:55,339 --> 00:00:57,931
>> a paradise for creatures
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00:00:58,008 --> 00:01:01,259
Adapted to life by the sea.
16
00:01:01,270 --> 00:01:03,762
And a never-before-seen view
17
00:01:03,773 --> 00:01:08,266
Of one of the most sacred places
on earth.
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00:01:08,277 --> 00:01:18,285
(♪♪♪)
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(♪♪♪)
20
00:01:28,297 --> 00:01:43,185
(♪♪♪)
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00:01:56,909 --> 00:02:01,120
Vancouver island's
pacific coast,
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00:02:02,915 --> 00:02:07,668
A lush old-growth rainforest
that spans nearly 300 miles
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00:02:07,744 --> 00:02:11,130
Of the western shores
of british columbia, canada.
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00:02:14,251 --> 00:02:16,844
It's the largest island
on the western coast
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00:02:16,920 --> 00:02:19,596
Of the americas.
26
00:02:19,673 --> 00:02:22,808
And the wettest place
in north america.
27
00:02:25,429 --> 00:02:29,347
Winters here are moist and mild.
28
00:02:29,358 --> 00:02:34,194
Temperatures rarely dip
below 30°.
29
00:02:34,321 --> 00:02:36,947
It is an unusually warm climate
30
00:02:37,024 --> 00:02:40,617
In a country known
for its raw and bitter winters.
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00:02:43,330 --> 00:02:45,706
Surprisingly,
the small town of tofino,
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00:02:45,782 --> 00:02:47,541
On the western shore,
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00:02:47,618 --> 00:02:52,212
Receives the least snow
of any town in canada.
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00:02:52,289 --> 00:02:56,800
But what it lacks in snow,
tofino makes up for with rain.
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00:02:59,430 --> 00:03:03,640
As many as 27 feet of rain
fall on tofino each year.
36
00:03:05,394 --> 00:03:07,644
The downpours are seasonal.
37
00:03:07,721 --> 00:03:11,064
December alone brings more rain
to the town
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00:03:11,141 --> 00:03:13,483
Than some parts
of british columbia receive
39
00:03:13,560 --> 00:03:15,903
In an entire year.
40
00:03:15,979 --> 00:03:18,730
As a result,
the region is home
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00:03:18,741 --> 00:03:22,034
To one of the world's
most unusual ecosystems,
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00:03:23,904 --> 00:03:27,414
A temperate coastal rainforest.
43
00:03:27,491 --> 00:03:31,409
In summer,
steady heat brings little rain.
44
00:03:31,420 --> 00:03:34,213
And the climate feels
almost mediterranean.
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00:03:36,508 --> 00:03:40,219
This truly is a place
like no other in canada.
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00:03:45,935 --> 00:03:48,018
Vancouver island sits on top
47
00:03:48,095 --> 00:03:52,940
Of the westward-moving
north american tectonic plate.
48
00:03:53,016 --> 00:03:56,276
It's part of the ring of fire,
49
00:03:56,487 --> 00:03:59,696
A string of volcanoes,
deep ocean trenches,
50
00:03:59,773 --> 00:04:03,242
And earthquake zones
that circles the pacific ocean.
51
00:04:05,120 --> 00:04:08,455
It's an area renowned
for its violent geology
52
00:04:08,532 --> 00:04:10,415
And volcanic activity.
53
00:04:13,870 --> 00:04:15,036
>> if you look at the direction
54
00:04:15,047 --> 00:04:16,538
In which all the continents
are moving,
55
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You'll see that
they're encroaching
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On the pacific.
57
00:04:20,469 --> 00:04:22,469
So it's probably
the most dangerous part
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00:04:22,546 --> 00:04:24,129
Of the planet,
59
00:04:24,139 --> 00:04:26,881
Because that process,
and we call it "subduction",
60
00:04:26,892 --> 00:04:30,811
Generates
enormous great earthquakes.
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00:04:30,887 --> 00:04:34,648
It generates volcanoes,
it generates tidal waves.
62
00:04:36,893 --> 00:04:39,486
>> continental drift
causes landmasses
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00:04:39,563 --> 00:04:43,323
To move dramatically over time.
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00:04:43,492 --> 00:04:45,900
Vancouver island
is a perfect example
65
00:04:45,911 --> 00:04:47,995
Of this phenomenon at work.
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00:04:51,491 --> 00:04:54,584
The island began its journey
much farther south
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00:04:54,661 --> 00:04:57,170
Than it is today.
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00:04:57,247 --> 00:04:59,581
It sits atop
a large piece of crust
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00:04:59,591 --> 00:05:01,508
Called "wrangellia".
70
00:05:03,420 --> 00:05:08,015
Born near the equator
about 380 million years ago,
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00:05:08,091 --> 00:05:12,436
Wrangellia slowly drifted
northeast along fault lines
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00:05:12,512 --> 00:05:16,106
At a rate of about 1 foot
every 7 years.
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00:05:16,183 --> 00:05:18,525
As it moved and fractured,
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00:05:18,602 --> 00:05:22,362
The chunk of crust carried
several different land masses
75
00:05:22,573 --> 00:05:25,949
Colliding
into the north american plate.
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00:05:26,026 --> 00:05:28,952
These include southeast alaska,
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00:05:29,029 --> 00:05:31,121
The haida gwaii archipelago
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00:05:31,198 --> 00:05:33,707
On the north coast
of british columbia,
79
00:05:33,784 --> 00:05:36,376
And vancouver island.
80
00:05:36,503 --> 00:05:39,954
>> it's like you pushing a broom
across the floor
81
00:05:39,965 --> 00:05:42,466
And sweeping up debris.
82
00:05:42,542 --> 00:05:45,135
And so there's been
a whole re-evaluation
83
00:05:45,212 --> 00:05:47,971
Of the geology
of western canada,
84
00:05:48,048 --> 00:05:51,641
And geologists now realize
it's a mosaic.
85
00:05:51,718 --> 00:05:53,560
And the pieces
actually originate
86
00:05:53,637 --> 00:05:55,637
From thousands of kilometers
away,
87
00:05:55,647 --> 00:05:57,397
And they've been added
to the west coast
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00:05:57,524 --> 00:05:59,816
Of north america.
89
00:05:59,893 --> 00:06:02,903
>> perhaps, surprisingly,
this is not the last stop
90
00:06:02,979 --> 00:06:05,822
For vancouver island.
91
00:06:05,899 --> 00:06:08,408
It continues to drift
north-eastward
92
00:06:08,535 --> 00:06:10,494
Toward mainland canada,
93
00:06:10,570 --> 00:06:13,738
About 1 to 2 inches each year,
94
00:06:13,749 --> 00:06:16,625
The same speed
at which fingernails grow.
95
00:06:18,629 --> 00:06:21,671
Eventually,
in about 500,000 years,
96
00:06:21,748 --> 00:06:24,674
The island will collide
with the mainland
97
00:06:24,751 --> 00:06:29,170
To create a new landmass.
98
00:06:29,181 --> 00:06:32,766
Tectonic plate movement
in this part of the ring of fire
99
00:06:32,843 --> 00:06:34,518
Is dangerous
100
00:06:34,594 --> 00:06:37,262
And it's not necessarily
millions of years
101
00:06:37,272 --> 00:06:40,098
Into the future.
102
00:06:40,109 --> 00:06:42,442
There's something
far more imminent
103
00:06:42,611 --> 00:06:45,112
That's of particular concern
to scientists.
104
00:06:47,866 --> 00:06:50,033
A megathrust earthquake,
105
00:06:50,110 --> 00:06:52,953
Known locally as
"the really big one".
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00:06:55,666 --> 00:06:57,699
This earthquake
is predicted to rival
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00:06:57,709 --> 00:07:00,460
The disastrous quake and tsunami
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00:07:00,587 --> 00:07:03,672
That devastated parts of japan
in 2011.
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00:07:05,551 --> 00:07:10,470
Vancouver island sits along
the cascadia subduction zone
110
00:07:10,597 --> 00:07:14,474
Where the north america
and juan de fuca tectonic plates
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00:07:14,601 --> 00:07:17,561
Are locked in a standoff.
112
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>> all the stress is building
up,
113
00:07:20,566 --> 00:07:22,891
And there's a lot
of anticipation
114
00:07:22,901 --> 00:07:26,570
And concern about
when those plates unlock.
115
00:07:26,646 --> 00:07:28,488
And we get what we call
a mega earthquake,
116
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A megathrust earthquake.
117
00:07:30,901 --> 00:07:33,735
And it could be tomorrow,
it could be next year
118
00:07:33,745 --> 00:07:35,820
Or maybe a thousand years' time.
119
00:07:35,831 --> 00:07:38,915
But there is a history
in the rocks there
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00:07:38,992 --> 00:07:42,752
Of these repeated
megathrust earthquakes.
121
00:07:42,829 --> 00:07:45,505
At a predicted magnitude
of more than 9
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00:07:45,582 --> 00:07:47,507
On the richter scale,
123
00:07:47,718 --> 00:07:51,586
An earthquake this large
would trigger a massive tsunami,
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00:07:51,597 --> 00:07:54,589
Nearly 400 miles wide.
125
00:07:54,600 --> 00:07:57,675
Spanning
from san francisco, california,
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00:07:57,686 --> 00:07:59,769
To juneau, alaska,
127
00:07:59,846 --> 00:08:02,522
And across the ocean
to the far shores
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00:08:02,733 --> 00:08:04,483
Of the western pacific.
129
00:08:06,195 --> 00:08:09,279
The earthquake
would devastate large cities
130
00:08:09,356 --> 00:08:13,283
Including vancouver, victoria,
portland, and seattle.
131
00:08:15,787 --> 00:08:18,747
A quake like this
is unavoidable.
132
00:08:20,200 --> 00:08:23,960
The question is
when will it strike?
133
00:08:25,789 --> 00:08:27,872
Geological records show
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00:08:27,883 --> 00:08:30,208
That the last
megathrust earthquake
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00:08:30,219 --> 00:08:35,129
Hit the pacific coast
in the year 1700.
136
00:08:35,140 --> 00:08:38,800
Scientists say
there is a one-in-three chance
137
00:08:38,810 --> 00:08:42,312
It will happen again
within the next 50 years.
138
00:08:43,974 --> 00:08:46,057
Vancouver, british columbia,
139
00:08:46,068 --> 00:08:49,236
Could be among the cities
worst affected.
140
00:08:49,312 --> 00:08:52,739
>> vancouver is built largely on
very soft sediment
141
00:08:52,816 --> 00:08:55,242
Which was brought down
by the fraser river.
142
00:08:55,318 --> 00:08:57,577
So you've got
this rather unstable situation
143
00:08:57,654 --> 00:08:59,821
Of wet sediment.
144
00:08:59,831 --> 00:09:04,084
And we know from places
like japan,
145
00:09:04,160 --> 00:09:05,919
When you shake
that wet sediment,
146
00:09:05,996 --> 00:09:08,255
It very often turns
into a liquid.
147
00:09:08,331 --> 00:09:10,590
Buildings literally fall down
148
00:09:10,759 --> 00:09:14,252
Through the softened sediment
and tilt.
149
00:09:14,263 --> 00:09:17,672
So the effects
of the megathrust earthquake
150
00:09:17,683 --> 00:09:20,425
Can be actually magnified,
151
00:09:20,435 --> 00:09:22,435
Because most of the city
is underlined
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00:09:22,512 --> 00:09:24,854
By soft, wet sediment.
153
00:09:26,775 --> 00:09:29,851
>> for now,
the same geological processes
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00:09:29,861 --> 00:09:32,279
That threaten vancouver island
155
00:09:32,355 --> 00:09:36,032
Breathe life
into its ecosystems.
156
00:09:36,109 --> 00:09:39,944
As fragments of plates
have subducted under the island,
157
00:09:39,955 --> 00:09:44,374
Its interior mountain range
has risen up above.
158
00:09:44,451 --> 00:09:47,785
This mountain chain
forms a rain shadow,
159
00:09:47,796 --> 00:09:51,456
An impenetrable wall of rock
that prevents moisture
160
00:09:51,466 --> 00:09:55,385
Moving inland from the ocean
from passing over its peaks.
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00:09:56,805 --> 00:09:59,380
It's the strongest factor
in the creation
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Of the pacific
temperate rainforest.
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00:10:03,312 --> 00:10:07,147
By trapping precipitation
on the west side of the island,
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00:10:07,223 --> 00:10:11,059
The mountains cause
huge amounts of fog and rainfall
165
00:10:11,069 --> 00:10:13,903
Along the island's
pacific coast,
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Creating a lush rainforest
unlike any other.
167
00:10:18,985 --> 00:10:22,662
On the edge
of this unlikely northern jungle
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00:10:22,831 --> 00:10:25,081
Is meares island,
169
00:10:25,158 --> 00:10:28,335
An ancient-growth forest
that's been held sacred
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00:10:28,411 --> 00:10:30,920
For more than a thousand years.
171
00:10:30,997 --> 00:10:32,413
(birds chirping)
172
00:10:32,424 --> 00:10:34,924
Meares island is home
to some of the largest
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00:10:35,001 --> 00:10:38,836
And oldest trees on earth,
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00:10:38,847 --> 00:10:41,339
1,500-year-old cedars
175
00:10:41,350 --> 00:10:45,510
Tended by local tla-o-qui-aht
first nations.
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00:10:45,520 --> 00:10:50,023
It is a harmonious relationship
between humans and nature
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00:10:50,100 --> 00:10:52,942
That has stood the test of time.
178
00:10:53,019 --> 00:10:55,528
>> we have an inter-generational
responsibility
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00:10:55,605 --> 00:10:59,190
That is passed on, you know,
to be taking care
180
00:10:59,201 --> 00:11:01,701
Not only of the land,
but the ocean, the rivers,
181
00:11:01,870 --> 00:11:05,029
And all the living things
that are in this area.
182
00:11:05,040 --> 00:11:08,208
(birds chirping in distance)
183
00:11:08,284 --> 00:11:12,671
>> meares island is canada's
first official tribal park.
184
00:11:13,965 --> 00:11:17,384
Faced by the threat of logging
in the 1980s,
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00:11:17,460 --> 00:11:20,553
Local people fought
to protect their sacred land
186
00:11:20,630 --> 00:11:22,514
From deforestation.
187
00:11:23,967 --> 00:11:27,727
After intense negotiations
with the canadian government,
188
00:11:27,804 --> 00:11:29,729
They were successful.
189
00:11:29,940 --> 00:11:33,942
And meares island was declared
a tribal park in 1984.
190
00:11:37,147 --> 00:11:41,157
Now under the watchful eye
of tla-o-qui-aht first nations,
191
00:11:41,234 --> 00:11:44,318
The island is used
as a nature park,
192
00:11:44,329 --> 00:11:47,580
Where visitors can sit
among some of the oldest trees
193
00:11:47,657 --> 00:11:49,332
On the planet.
194
00:11:49,409 --> 00:11:53,002
(birds chirping in distance)
195
00:11:53,079 --> 00:11:56,172
Here on meares island's
big tree trail
196
00:11:56,249 --> 00:11:59,843
Stands one of the largest
and oldest living organisms
197
00:11:59,919 --> 00:12:01,344
On earth...
198
00:12:01,421 --> 00:12:03,504
(birds chirping in distance)
199
00:12:03,515 --> 00:12:07,258
...The hanging garden tree.
200
00:12:07,269 --> 00:12:10,854
A western red cedar
60 feet wide,
201
00:12:10,930 --> 00:12:14,107
It's more than 2,000 years old.
202
00:12:14,184 --> 00:12:18,194
And was likely just a sapling
at the dawn of christianity.
203
00:12:20,857 --> 00:12:23,783
Some of these ancient red cedars
can reach heights
204
00:12:23,910 --> 00:12:27,612
Of more than 170 feet.
205
00:12:27,622 --> 00:12:31,449
There are only a few
of these majestic giants left
206
00:12:31,460 --> 00:12:34,043
On vancouver island.
207
00:12:34,120 --> 00:12:37,547
Years of deforestation
and development destroyed
208
00:12:37,624 --> 00:12:40,875
Much of the island's old growth.
209
00:12:40,886 --> 00:12:43,461
But the time-worn cedars
that do remain
210
00:12:43,472 --> 00:12:46,806
Are able to grow
to staggering proportions
211
00:12:46,975 --> 00:12:49,225
Due to the torrents
of precipitation that fall
212
00:12:49,302 --> 00:12:53,480
Each year.
213
00:12:53,556 --> 00:12:58,067
Heavy rainfall in the winter
and extreme fog in the summer
214
00:12:58,144 --> 00:13:01,654
Create a constant dampness
that prevents forest fires
215
00:13:01,731 --> 00:13:05,241
From igniting and burning down
these ancient woods.
216
00:13:09,956 --> 00:13:12,832
But it isn't just
a warm, sodden climate
217
00:13:13,043 --> 00:13:16,252
That keeps this forest
flourishing.
218
00:13:16,329 --> 00:13:19,997
It's protected
by another guardian.
219
00:13:20,008 --> 00:13:23,843
One so small,
it's easily overlooked,
220
00:13:23,970 --> 00:13:26,429
Buried beneath the feet
of visitors.
221
00:13:26,506 --> 00:13:28,089
Yet so large,
222
00:13:28,099 --> 00:13:30,508
It connects
the trees of the forest,
223
00:13:30,519 --> 00:13:35,271
Forming one of the most
immense organisms on earth,
224
00:13:35,348 --> 00:13:38,266
Fungus.
225
00:13:38,276 --> 00:13:42,821
Fungus is the lifeblood
of this rainforest ecosystem.
226
00:13:44,032 --> 00:13:47,033
It feeds nutrients
to trees and animals
227
00:13:47,110 --> 00:13:48,868
Through a living network
228
00:13:49,037 --> 00:13:52,914
That exists just below
the mossy forest floor.
229
00:13:55,001 --> 00:13:57,627
>> you're on a living mat
230
00:13:57,704 --> 00:14:01,956
That connects one tree species
to another tree species.
231
00:14:01,967 --> 00:14:06,678
>> each tree is connected to
others by fungal roots called
mycelium.
232
00:14:08,974 --> 00:14:13,309
These strands of living tissue
carry nitrogen and phosphorous,
233
00:14:13,386 --> 00:14:16,053
Nutrients that help plants grow.
234
00:14:19,067 --> 00:14:20,900
The connections are so strong
235
00:14:21,111 --> 00:14:24,145
That cutting down a tree
in one end of the forest
236
00:14:24,155 --> 00:14:26,948
Can impact a tree
on the opposite end.
237
00:14:29,077 --> 00:14:31,319
This fungal network
has been called
238
00:14:31,329 --> 00:14:33,913
"earth's natural internet"
239
00:14:34,124 --> 00:14:35,915
And can serve
as a warning system
240
00:14:35,992 --> 00:14:38,543
For impending disease.
241
00:14:43,333 --> 00:14:46,334
Trees pick up
on chemical signals of distress
242
00:14:46,344 --> 00:14:50,430
From their neighbors
that travel through the network.
243
00:14:50,506 --> 00:14:54,350
>> all of these creatures,
these tree creatures,
244
00:14:54,427 --> 00:14:57,520
These ents,
as in lord of the rings ,
245
00:14:57,597 --> 00:15:01,357
Truly are connected
by a real physical
246
00:15:01,434 --> 00:15:03,151
And biological connection.
247
00:15:04,520 --> 00:15:07,447
>> like the constant moisture
of the rainforest,
248
00:15:07,523 --> 00:15:11,910
This fungal network is key
to the survival of old growth.
249
00:15:13,371 --> 00:15:17,290
It provides 1,000-year-old trees
with the nutrients they need
250
00:15:17,367 --> 00:15:20,117
To keep growing.
251
00:15:20,128 --> 00:15:22,629
Although science
does not yet fully understand
252
00:15:22,705 --> 00:15:25,039
The complexity
of these networks,
253
00:15:25,050 --> 00:15:27,133
It's clear
that this unique habitat
254
00:15:27,210 --> 00:15:30,470
Could not exist without them.
255
00:15:30,546 --> 00:15:32,129
>> when you go out
into the forest,
256
00:15:32,140 --> 00:15:34,298
You're walking on life.
257
00:15:34,309 --> 00:15:37,134
Life connecting
with other creatures.
258
00:15:37,145 --> 00:15:39,979
It's not some spiritual thing,
it's a real thing.
259
00:15:40,190 --> 00:15:43,224
Yet behind it
is this spirit of life,
260
00:15:43,234 --> 00:15:45,318
The spirit of evolution,
261
00:15:45,395 --> 00:15:47,487
That's why this is one
of the most remarkable places
262
00:15:47,563 --> 00:15:49,989
On earth.
263
00:15:50,116 --> 00:15:52,992
>> this remarkable place
is also home
264
00:15:53,119 --> 00:15:57,571
To a diversity of wildlife,
nourished by the lush forests
265
00:15:57,582 --> 00:16:00,408
And nutrient-rich
inter-tidal zones.
266
00:16:03,246 --> 00:16:06,673
Here, a black bear
goes in search of breakfast.
267
00:16:08,593 --> 00:16:12,503
Hungry predators like him
take advantage of low tides
268
00:16:12,514 --> 00:16:16,432
That expose small prey
in the early morning
269
00:16:16,509 --> 00:16:19,769
And turn shorelines
into a buffet of mollusks
270
00:16:19,846 --> 00:16:21,729
And crustaceans.
271
00:16:24,183 --> 00:16:28,987
It's 8:00 a.M., low tide
and the best time to find food.
272
00:16:30,782 --> 00:16:33,190
But it's a race
against the clock,
273
00:16:33,201 --> 00:16:36,035
Every minute counts.
274
00:16:36,246 --> 00:16:40,206
In just a few hours,
the high tide will wash back in,
275
00:16:40,283 --> 00:16:44,201
Hiding prey
under more than 9 feet of water.
276
00:16:44,212 --> 00:16:45,712
But for now,
277
00:16:45,788 --> 00:16:49,549
Clams, oysters, and crabs
are ripe for the picking.
278
00:16:51,386 --> 00:16:53,627
The black bear
is the smallest bear
279
00:16:53,638 --> 00:16:56,881
Of the three species
in north america.
280
00:16:56,891 --> 00:17:00,810
But this is
no average black bear.
281
00:17:00,887 --> 00:17:04,388
This is
a vancouver island black bear,
282
00:17:04,399 --> 00:17:08,317
An endemic subspecies
of the common black bear.
283
00:17:08,394 --> 00:17:12,813
Here, the bears run larger
than their mainland cousins.
284
00:17:12,824 --> 00:17:16,400
Females weigh an average
of 400 pounds,
285
00:17:16,411 --> 00:17:20,821
While males can tip the scales
at more than 600 pounds,
286
00:17:20,832 --> 00:17:24,917
The weight
of a large touring motorcycle.
287
00:17:24,994 --> 00:17:27,837
Green shore crabs scuttle off,
288
00:17:27,914 --> 00:17:30,882
Wary of the bears
that feed on this bank.
289
00:17:33,252 --> 00:17:36,670
They're common on the shores
of vancouver island
290
00:17:36,681 --> 00:17:38,723
And make a tasty snack.
291
00:17:43,262 --> 00:17:46,105
The breakfast buffet
of the inter-tidal zone
292
00:17:46,182 --> 00:17:49,609
Feeds more
than the local bear population.
293
00:17:49,685 --> 00:17:54,113
(seagulls screeching)
294
00:17:54,324 --> 00:17:56,783
Crows and gulls
also take advantage
295
00:17:56,859 --> 00:18:01,779
Of the exposed shoreline,
pecking for small prey
296
00:18:01,790 --> 00:18:05,374
And scavenging the remains
left by larger animals.
297
00:18:07,295 --> 00:18:10,379
These opportunistic hunters
find plenty of food
298
00:18:10,456 --> 00:18:14,383
On the nutrient-rich beaches.
299
00:18:14,460 --> 00:18:16,877
Larger birds
make this coastline home
300
00:18:16,888 --> 00:18:18,304
As well.
301
00:18:18,381 --> 00:18:22,141
A bald eagle rests
in a cedar tree,
302
00:18:22,218 --> 00:18:26,646
Its keen eyes able to spot
small prey 100 feet below.
303
00:18:28,316 --> 00:18:32,110
Eagles find easy meals
on these shores during low-tide.
304
00:18:36,983 --> 00:18:40,451
Today, the shores begin
to clear out around noon.
305
00:18:42,238 --> 00:18:46,657
The feast dies down
as the high tides creep back in.
306
00:18:49,495 --> 00:18:53,497
But another kind of frenzy
is just getting started.
307
00:18:53,508 --> 00:18:59,595
(♪♪♪)
308
00:18:59,672 --> 00:19:03,007
Powerful waves
crash along the shores,
309
00:19:03,017 --> 00:19:07,353
Creating ideal conditions
for the best surfing in canada.
310
00:19:09,348 --> 00:19:12,850
With more than 20 miles
of surf-able beach break,
311
00:19:12,861 --> 00:19:15,194
Tofino is known worldwide
312
00:19:15,271 --> 00:19:18,272
As a top spot to catch a wave.
313
00:19:18,283 --> 00:19:20,941
Surfers flock here year-round.
314
00:19:20,952 --> 00:19:22,526
>> I really like surfing
early in the morning,
315
00:19:22,537 --> 00:19:25,204
Before the wind picks up
and before people wake up.
316
00:19:25,281 --> 00:19:28,032
You can, you know, find waves
where it'll just be you
317
00:19:28,042 --> 00:19:30,209
And your friends surfing
for 3 or 4 days
318
00:19:30,286 --> 00:19:33,045
If you make the effort
to maybe go on a plane ride
319
00:19:33,122 --> 00:19:35,715
Or a boat ride
or really hike down
320
00:19:35,791 --> 00:19:37,291
In through some forests.
321
00:19:37,302 --> 00:19:38,634
Or if you just wanna be lazy
and surf,
322
00:19:38,711 --> 00:19:40,711
The beaches are right
on your doorstep.
323
00:19:40,722 --> 00:19:43,222
Uh, there's probably
about five or six beaches
324
00:19:43,349 --> 00:19:44,974
That you can surf here.
325
00:19:47,729 --> 00:19:52,190
>> water temperatures remain
cool but consistent at about
50°.
326
00:19:54,402 --> 00:19:58,571
Surfing here
is a year-round sport.
327
00:19:58,648 --> 00:20:01,065
The largest waves
come in winter,
328
00:20:01,075 --> 00:20:05,319
When the surf rises
with powerful swells.
329
00:20:05,330 --> 00:20:09,749
But each surfer's ideal wave
is different.
330
00:20:09,825 --> 00:20:11,659
>> my favorite time of year
to surf is the fall.
331
00:20:11,669 --> 00:20:13,753
When the water
is still kind of warm
332
00:20:13,829 --> 00:20:15,254
From the summer,
333
00:20:15,465 --> 00:20:17,506
But the waves
start to get bigger,
334
00:20:17,583 --> 00:20:20,751
And we start to get
some bigger swells coming in.
335
00:20:20,762 --> 00:20:24,338
>> chesterman beach,
with its dramatic v-shape,
336
00:20:24,349 --> 00:20:26,349
Is a surfer's playground.
337
00:20:28,436 --> 00:20:31,345
Dissected at its point
by frank island,
338
00:20:31,356 --> 00:20:34,232
The beach is split perfectly
in two.
339
00:20:35,526 --> 00:20:37,935
South chesterman packs a punch
340
00:20:37,946 --> 00:20:40,780
With southern swells
and northwest winds.
341
00:20:42,525 --> 00:20:45,776
North chesterman provides
the opposite experience,
342
00:20:45,787 --> 00:20:49,872
With climbing north-west swells
and south-easterly winds.
343
00:20:51,626 --> 00:20:56,545
Surfers don wetsuits to ward off
chilly water temperatures.
344
00:20:56,622 --> 00:21:00,708
And there are other hazards
for surfers in tofino.
345
00:21:00,718 --> 00:21:03,052
In addition to bears
on the beach,
346
00:21:03,129 --> 00:21:06,555
There are orcas in these waters.
347
00:21:06,632 --> 00:21:09,308
Surfers have been forced
out of the sea
348
00:21:09,435 --> 00:21:12,311
By circling pods
of killer whales,
349
00:21:12,438 --> 00:21:14,730
Though there's never been
an attack.
350
00:21:14,807 --> 00:21:17,725
For nature lovers
and adventure seekers,
351
00:21:17,735 --> 00:21:21,562
There is more to tofino
than rolling waves.
352
00:21:21,572 --> 00:21:26,066
>> if I'm not surfing, I'm
hiking and not just hiking the
beaches.
353
00:21:26,077 --> 00:21:28,327
Like within an hour's drive
from here,
354
00:21:28,454 --> 00:21:30,154
You can hike up
a beautiful mountain
355
00:21:30,164 --> 00:21:32,665
Like up a waterfall
and swim in a lake,
356
00:21:32,742 --> 00:21:34,074
You know, up the top.
357
00:21:34,085 --> 00:21:35,918
It's just everything you'd want
358
00:21:35,995 --> 00:21:38,754
If you're an adventurous,
fun-loving person.
359
00:21:44,003 --> 00:21:47,346
>> but other places along
the same stretch of shoreline
360
00:21:47,423 --> 00:21:50,016
Are not so hospitable.
361
00:21:50,092 --> 00:21:53,352
The pacific coastal region
between northern oregon
362
00:21:53,521 --> 00:21:55,596
And the top of vancouver island
363
00:21:55,606 --> 00:22:00,359
Is one of north america's
most treacherous coastlines.
364
00:22:00,486 --> 00:22:04,697
Unpredictable weather,
jagged shores, and intense fog
365
00:22:04,774 --> 00:22:07,191
Have sunk thousands of ships,
366
00:22:07,201 --> 00:22:10,119
Earning this stretch
of coastline the nickname,
367
00:22:10,196 --> 00:22:12,330
"the graveyard of the pacific".
368
00:22:15,043 --> 00:22:17,543
The historic
amphitrite lighthouse
369
00:22:17,620 --> 00:22:19,211
Has helped sailors navigate
370
00:22:19,288 --> 00:22:21,455
The island's
treacherous coastlines
371
00:22:21,466 --> 00:22:24,383
For more than 100 years.
372
00:22:24,460 --> 00:22:27,636
The lighthouse was built in 1906
373
00:22:27,713 --> 00:22:30,798
After the tragic sinking
of the pass of melfort
374
00:22:30,808 --> 00:22:32,850
In the winter of 1905.
375
00:22:34,520 --> 00:22:37,054
The four-masted,
steel-hulled ship
376
00:22:37,065 --> 00:22:40,974
Was on its way to seattle
on a routine timber run
377
00:22:40,985 --> 00:22:45,229
Until seasonal storms
whipped up deadly waves,
378
00:22:45,239 --> 00:22:48,982
Leaving the vessel
in ruin just 160 feet
379
00:22:48,993 --> 00:22:52,745
Off the shore
of amphitrite point.
380
00:22:52,822 --> 00:22:56,123
The tragedy left 36 people dead.
381
00:22:57,993 --> 00:23:02,171
Since then, the lighthouse
has guided sailors to safety
382
00:23:02,248 --> 00:23:05,424
Through thick fog
along rocky coasts.
383
00:23:05,501 --> 00:23:09,637
(waves splashing in distance)
384
00:23:13,643 --> 00:23:16,435
The most ancient layers
of vancouver island
385
00:23:16,604 --> 00:23:19,438
Are comprised
of marine volcanic rock
386
00:23:19,515 --> 00:23:22,608
Formed by undersea lava deposits
387
00:23:22,685 --> 00:23:25,069
More than 300 million years ago.
388
00:23:26,656 --> 00:23:29,022
Over millennia,
the calcium shells
389
00:23:29,033 --> 00:23:32,609
Of countless marine animals
added to the rock
390
00:23:32,620 --> 00:23:36,029
To create limestone.
391
00:23:36,040 --> 00:23:39,283
These ancient rocks
formed long colonnades
392
00:23:39,293 --> 00:23:42,211
That jut out
into the pacific ocean,
393
00:23:42,288 --> 00:23:46,132
Posing hazards
for passing ships.
394
00:23:46,208 --> 00:23:49,209
But even more dangerous
than the jagged rock
395
00:23:49,220 --> 00:23:53,139
Is the unrelenting fog.
396
00:23:53,215 --> 00:23:56,300
August on the west coast
of vancouver island
397
00:23:56,310 --> 00:24:00,229
Is nicknamed "fogust".
398
00:24:00,306 --> 00:24:04,224
Two types of fog
cloak the west coast,
399
00:24:04,235 --> 00:24:07,486
Radiation and advection.
400
00:24:07,655 --> 00:24:10,739
Radiation fog is common
during late summer
401
00:24:10,816 --> 00:24:12,983
And is created
when surface temperatures
402
00:24:12,994 --> 00:24:15,736
Cool rapidly at night.
403
00:24:15,746 --> 00:24:19,081
Ground water evaporates
into warmer air,
404
00:24:19,158 --> 00:24:22,084
Condensing as a thin layer
of surface cloud
405
00:24:22,161 --> 00:24:24,661
Close to ground.
406
00:24:24,672 --> 00:24:28,999
Daytime rising temperatures
typically burn off radiation fog
407
00:24:29,010 --> 00:24:31,594
By mid-afternoon.
408
00:24:31,670 --> 00:24:35,514
But advection fog
can last for several days
409
00:24:35,683 --> 00:24:39,101
When warm, moist air
blows across cooler land
410
00:24:39,178 --> 00:24:41,687
Or water.
411
00:24:41,764 --> 00:24:43,764
The fog is an essential part
412
00:24:43,774 --> 00:24:47,935
Of the pacific coast's
rainforest ecosystem.
413
00:24:47,945 --> 00:24:50,029
During the dry summer,
414
00:24:50,105 --> 00:24:54,617
It supplies the forests
with much-needed moisture.
415
00:24:54,693 --> 00:24:57,786
Fog drip accounts
for more than 35%
416
00:24:57,863 --> 00:25:00,581
Of the rainforest's
annual precipitation.
417
00:25:02,284 --> 00:25:04,543
Without this thick haze,
418
00:25:04,712 --> 00:25:09,122
Canada's only rainforest
could not survive.
419
00:25:09,133 --> 00:25:11,550
Life on this remarkable island
420
00:25:11,627 --> 00:25:15,012
Depends on the delicate balance
of its ecosystems.
421
00:25:16,724 --> 00:25:19,391
Like waves of the pacific shore,
422
00:25:19,468 --> 00:25:24,221
Life here ebbs and flows
in a natural rhythm.
423
00:25:24,232 --> 00:25:25,889
To the keen observer,
424
00:25:25,900 --> 00:25:28,067
This lush paradise
425
00:25:28,143 --> 00:25:31,728
Can provide everything needed
for survival.
426
00:25:31,739 --> 00:25:34,314
>> a really big compliment
that you can get in our culture
427
00:25:34,325 --> 00:25:36,400
Is that you have been
very observant.
428
00:25:36,410 --> 00:25:40,654
So there was a lot of time
that people just spent in nature
429
00:25:40,665 --> 00:25:43,666
Observing various things.
430
00:25:43,742 --> 00:25:47,828
What the birds are saying,
what the tide is doing,
431
00:25:47,838 --> 00:25:49,913
Do you hear a rumble
along the ocean
432
00:25:49,924 --> 00:25:52,091
That'll help you know
what's going on out there
433
00:25:52,167 --> 00:25:54,835
In terms of swell.
434
00:25:54,845 --> 00:25:56,595
What the clouds are doing,
435
00:25:56,764 --> 00:25:58,171
Which mountain tops
they're sitting on top off.
436
00:25:58,182 --> 00:25:59,598
All these things,
437
00:25:59,675 --> 00:26:03,602
And you can learn so much
just from that observance.
438
00:26:03,813 --> 00:26:07,940
>> for generations, first
nations have lived off the land,
439
00:26:08,017 --> 00:26:12,111
Looking to nature
to supply shelter and food.
440
00:26:12,187 --> 00:26:15,689
>> in the past, we managed
these root vegetable gardens
441
00:26:15,700 --> 00:26:17,616
That were our main starches
442
00:26:17,785 --> 00:26:20,944
And those were
very carefully gardened
443
00:26:20,955 --> 00:26:24,873
And managed by specific families
within the tribe.
444
00:26:24,950 --> 00:26:28,285
Some first nations communities
still rely on the shores
445
00:26:28,296 --> 00:26:30,379
Of the island for food.
446
00:26:30,456 --> 00:26:33,632
Living off the land
demands an expert level
447
00:26:33,801 --> 00:26:35,050
Of observance.
448
00:26:35,127 --> 00:26:37,711
Foragers need to be aware
of the balance
449
00:26:37,722 --> 00:26:40,389
Of supply and demand.
450
00:26:40,466 --> 00:26:43,133
Through the ages,
the lives of first nations
451
00:26:43,144 --> 00:26:46,228
Were intertwined
with the natural world.
452
00:26:46,305 --> 00:26:48,647
Aboriginal people
considered the growth
453
00:26:48,816 --> 00:26:51,400
And reproduction cycles
of plants and animals
454
00:26:51,477 --> 00:26:53,235
Before harvesting
455
00:26:53,312 --> 00:26:57,147
To sustain the food supply
for generations to come.
456
00:26:57,158 --> 00:27:01,818
>> it's important to learn about
whatever that resource is,
457
00:27:01,829 --> 00:27:05,497
Not just as a human use thing,
but its own lifecycle
458
00:27:05,574 --> 00:27:07,666
And just how,
459
00:27:07,743 --> 00:27:10,994
Under what circumstances
does it thrive, or not?
460
00:27:11,005 --> 00:27:14,506
And if you do have access
to indigenous knowledge
461
00:27:14,583 --> 00:27:17,918
And people that are willing
to share, to respectfully ask,
462
00:27:17,928 --> 00:27:20,846
That's a good start.
463
00:27:20,923 --> 00:27:22,339
>> from up high,
464
00:27:22,350 --> 00:27:25,100
The lush rainforests
of vancouver island
465
00:27:25,177 --> 00:27:27,511
Burst with life.
466
00:27:27,521 --> 00:27:32,265
Dense greenery is a vivid sign
of a healthy forest.
467
00:27:32,276 --> 00:27:35,352
These aerial views
also provide clues
468
00:27:35,363 --> 00:27:38,939
About the health
of a different species,
469
00:27:38,949 --> 00:27:40,866
Salmon.
470
00:27:40,943 --> 00:27:42,951
The carcasses of salmon
471
00:27:43,028 --> 00:27:46,863
Dragged from spawning streams
hundreds of feet inland
472
00:27:46,874 --> 00:27:51,126
Provide a rich source
of nitrogen to nearby forests.
473
00:27:51,203 --> 00:27:54,788
Studies show the trees here
obtain up to 50%
474
00:27:54,799 --> 00:27:58,125
Of their nitrogen
from the decaying fish.
475
00:27:58,135 --> 00:28:01,053
Forests made healthy
by dead salmon
476
00:28:01,130 --> 00:28:03,722
Attract more birds and insects,
477
00:28:03,933 --> 00:28:05,891
Increasing
the overall well-being
478
00:28:05,968 --> 00:28:07,726
Of the ecosystem.
479
00:28:07,803 --> 00:28:10,979
As a result,
lush forests like this
480
00:28:11,056 --> 00:28:14,141
Usually indicate
a healthy salmon run.
481
00:28:14,151 --> 00:28:17,561
(water splashing)
482
00:28:17,571 --> 00:28:21,573
There are four kinds of salmon
on vancouver island.
483
00:28:21,650 --> 00:28:24,159
Chinook salmon is the largest.
484
00:28:24,236 --> 00:28:26,829
It can live for up to 9 years
485
00:28:26,905 --> 00:28:30,749
And reach weights
of more than 130 pounds,
486
00:28:30,876 --> 00:28:34,995
Making it the largest
salmon species on earth.
487
00:28:35,005 --> 00:28:38,081
These muscular fish spawn
in the majority
488
00:28:38,092 --> 00:28:41,585
Of vancouver island's streams
and rivers.
489
00:28:41,595 --> 00:28:45,597
Every fall, salmon return
to the place they were born
490
00:28:45,674 --> 00:28:50,010
To lay their eggs
and restart the cycle of life.
491
00:28:50,020 --> 00:28:51,520
It's an epic journey
492
00:28:51,597 --> 00:28:54,014
That can cover
thousands of miles
493
00:28:54,024 --> 00:28:57,776
From the wide-open pacific ocean
to natal streams
494
00:28:57,945 --> 00:29:00,779
That can reach far inland.
495
00:29:00,906 --> 00:29:03,282
Guided by the earth's
magnetic fields
496
00:29:03,358 --> 00:29:05,358
And their own sense of smell,
497
00:29:05,369 --> 00:29:07,619
Salmon find the river
of their birth,
498
00:29:07,696 --> 00:29:09,955
Then brave waterfalls and rapids
499
00:29:10,032 --> 00:29:14,201
To make it to their spawning
grounds far upstream.
500
00:29:14,211 --> 00:29:16,962
Once they arrive
at their destination,
501
00:29:17,039 --> 00:29:20,799
Females can lay
between 2,000 to 5,000 eggs
502
00:29:21,010 --> 00:29:25,471
Before they become senescent,
meaning they've spawned out.
503
00:29:25,547 --> 00:29:28,298
The high number of eggs
is vital to the survival
504
00:29:28,309 --> 00:29:29,966
Of the species.
505
00:29:29,977 --> 00:29:33,470
The ova are vulnerable
to predators, pollution,
506
00:29:33,481 --> 00:29:35,814
Flooding, and disease
507
00:29:35,983 --> 00:29:39,059
Less than 10% will make it
to adulthood
508
00:29:39,069 --> 00:29:42,562
And just 2% will survive
the incredible journey
509
00:29:42,573 --> 00:29:45,491
Back to their birthplace
to spawn
510
00:29:45,567 --> 00:29:49,495
And continue the cycle of life.
511
00:29:49,571 --> 00:29:52,331
South of tofino
is the crown jewel
512
00:29:52,407 --> 00:29:56,001
Of vancouver island's
west coast.
513
00:29:56,078 --> 00:29:59,254
Pacific rim national park,
514
00:29:59,331 --> 00:30:03,083
Home to rainforests
filled with ancient cedars
515
00:30:03,093 --> 00:30:05,669
And diverse wildlife.
516
00:30:05,679 --> 00:30:07,671
It's also home
to one of the island's
517
00:30:07,681 --> 00:30:11,600
Unexpected
and rarest ecosystems,
518
00:30:11,677 --> 00:30:14,937
Sand dunes.
519
00:30:15,013 --> 00:30:17,606
>> in western canada,
sand dunes and sandy beaches
520
00:30:17,683 --> 00:30:20,526
Comprise less than 10%
of our shoreline.
521
00:30:20,602 --> 00:30:22,861
That makes them rare,
but what makes them special
522
00:30:22,938 --> 00:30:25,939
Is that these are selected spots
for a whole host
523
00:30:25,950 --> 00:30:27,691
Of different species
that only exist
524
00:30:27,701 --> 00:30:30,360
In sandy substrate.
525
00:30:30,371 --> 00:30:34,289
>> dunes are created in equal
parts by wind and water.
526
00:30:35,626 --> 00:30:40,295
Over time, wind pushes waves
and sand ashore,
527
00:30:40,372 --> 00:30:44,883
Piling grains of sand
into wind deposits.
528
00:30:45,094 --> 00:30:48,545
These dunes are the largest
in british columbia
529
00:30:48,556 --> 00:30:50,964
And are an important
transitional zone
530
00:30:50,975 --> 00:30:53,967
Between beach and forest.
531
00:30:53,978 --> 00:30:57,145
>> these are very rare,
very selected habitats
532
00:30:57,222 --> 00:30:59,055
For a whole host
of different species
533
00:30:59,066 --> 00:31:01,733
And communities that only exist
in select spots
534
00:31:01,810 --> 00:31:04,644
Like here in tofino, ucluelet.
535
00:31:04,655 --> 00:31:07,230
>> migratory birds, bears,
536
00:31:07,241 --> 00:31:09,575
And a variety
of plants and insects
537
00:31:09,651 --> 00:31:12,485
Call the dunes home.
538
00:31:12,496 --> 00:31:16,665
But an intruder
has put the dunes at risk.
539
00:31:16,742 --> 00:31:19,918
>> dune systems of this size
are really rare.
540
00:31:20,087 --> 00:31:22,087
What we see
in most coastal dune systems
541
00:31:22,164 --> 00:31:23,505
In the northern hemisphere
is that
542
00:31:23,582 --> 00:31:26,333
They are slowly shrinking
or stabilizing
543
00:31:26,343 --> 00:31:28,927
By vegetation moving in
on their margins.
544
00:31:29,004 --> 00:31:32,598
We see that
on the fore-dune here,
545
00:31:32,674 --> 00:31:35,934
In response to an introduced
or invasive species,
546
00:31:36,061 --> 00:31:40,272
That's known as an american
or european beach-grass.
547
00:31:40,349 --> 00:31:42,182
>> beach-grass
was originally brought
548
00:31:42,192 --> 00:31:44,026
To vancouver island
549
00:31:44,102 --> 00:31:48,021
To stabilize coastal areas
at risk of erosion.
550
00:31:48,032 --> 00:31:51,199
But over time,
this invasive species
551
00:31:51,276 --> 00:31:54,778
Began to block
the natural transfer of sand
552
00:31:54,788 --> 00:31:57,289
Between dunes.
553
00:31:57,366 --> 00:32:02,118
Without a natural flow of sand,
dunes can shrink over time
554
00:32:02,129 --> 00:32:05,789
Endangering the plants,
insects and animals
555
00:32:05,799 --> 00:32:10,043
That make their home
in the sand.
556
00:32:10,054 --> 00:32:13,463
To help fight
invasive european beach-grass,
557
00:32:13,474 --> 00:32:17,267
The park introduced
a restoration program.
558
00:32:18,812 --> 00:32:22,731
Local community members
remove the beach grass by hand,
559
00:32:22,808 --> 00:32:26,476
Replacing it
with the endangered plants.
560
00:32:26,487 --> 00:32:29,571
>> these kids here are pulling
invasive dune grass
561
00:32:29,648 --> 00:32:31,731
For the dune restoration
project.
562
00:32:31,742 --> 00:32:34,076
It's a very important
ecosystem here
563
00:32:34,152 --> 00:32:37,579
And these kids are helping
to restore it.
564
00:32:37,656 --> 00:32:41,324
The goal is to restore
the way wind naturally blows
565
00:32:41,335 --> 00:32:44,494
The sediment
and shifts the dunes.
566
00:32:44,505 --> 00:32:47,747
By freeing up sand
to move with the wind,
567
00:32:47,758 --> 00:32:51,343
Researchers hope to maintain
the natural microhabitats
568
00:32:51,420 --> 00:32:53,336
Of the dunes.
569
00:32:53,347 --> 00:32:55,681
>> all of these plants
that you see around here,
570
00:32:55,757 --> 00:32:58,016
They're
disturbance-loving plants.
571
00:32:58,185 --> 00:33:00,343
They need that disturbance,
that abrasion by sand,
572
00:33:00,354 --> 00:33:03,680
That burial, that erosion
to grow and live.
573
00:33:03,691 --> 00:33:06,182
An invasive species
like the beach-grass
574
00:33:06,193 --> 00:33:09,352
Will move in, choke out,
and stabilize
575
00:33:09,363 --> 00:33:12,030
Or cover the surface.
576
00:33:12,157 --> 00:33:15,033
>> the species
that we're really focused on
577
00:33:15,160 --> 00:33:18,528
And for this
dune restoration project
578
00:33:18,539 --> 00:33:21,790
Are three species
that are considered endangered
579
00:33:21,867 --> 00:33:23,116
In canada
580
00:33:23,127 --> 00:33:26,044
And one of those
is pink sand verbena.
581
00:33:26,171 --> 00:33:28,538
>> by replacing
the invasive beach-grass
582
00:33:28,549 --> 00:33:30,799
With pink sand verbena,
583
00:33:30,876 --> 00:33:35,053
Researchers will restore
the natural rhythm of the dunes.
584
00:33:35,222 --> 00:33:37,222
>> we've removed those grasses,
585
00:33:37,299 --> 00:33:39,057
We've returned
these environments
586
00:33:39,134 --> 00:33:42,227
To a more natural regime,
587
00:33:42,304 --> 00:33:45,897
And we have seen the increase
588
00:33:45,974 --> 00:33:48,150
In a lot of those rare species
589
00:33:48,226 --> 00:33:52,228
That we were trying to enhance.
590
00:33:52,239 --> 00:33:54,740
We're making great strides
in giving them a home.
591
00:33:58,320 --> 00:34:00,078
>> on vancouver island,
592
00:34:00,205 --> 00:34:02,581
Another ecosystem
straddles the line
593
00:34:02,657 --> 00:34:06,084
Between earth and water.
594
00:34:06,295 --> 00:34:10,088
But this place
is not by the ocean.
595
00:34:10,299 --> 00:34:13,216
It's thousands of feet
above sea level.
596
00:34:15,596 --> 00:34:18,889
A hidden paradise
at the top of a mountain.
597
00:34:21,602 --> 00:34:24,603
These towering peaks
split vancouver island
598
00:34:24,679 --> 00:34:27,272
Into east and west.
599
00:34:27,349 --> 00:34:29,599
Their steep slopes
retain moisture
600
00:34:29,610 --> 00:34:31,526
Along the pacific coast
601
00:34:31,603 --> 00:34:35,197
And help create
lush rainforests.
602
00:34:35,273 --> 00:34:38,700
But historically,
these thirsty forests
603
00:34:38,777 --> 00:34:43,121
Were quenched by another source,
glaciers.
604
00:34:45,700 --> 00:34:47,459
In the 1970s,
605
00:34:47,536 --> 00:34:51,922
Vancouver island was home
to more than 170 glaciers.
606
00:34:53,467 --> 00:34:56,718
Ice capped the peaks
of many mountains on the island.
607
00:34:58,713 --> 00:35:00,296
In the heat of the summer,
608
00:35:00,307 --> 00:35:03,383
These slow-moving
ribbons of ice melt
609
00:35:03,393 --> 00:35:06,645
And saturate
the dry forests below.
610
00:35:09,483 --> 00:35:14,111
In the spring, melted glaciers
become rushing waterfalls.
611
00:35:15,564 --> 00:35:17,155
In the nahmint valley,
612
00:35:17,366 --> 00:35:19,407
In the centre
of vancouver island,
613
00:35:19,484 --> 00:35:21,952
Spring waterfalls flow freely.
614
00:35:23,822 --> 00:35:27,290
Locals refer to this area
as "waterfall heaven".
615
00:35:29,336 --> 00:35:33,672
Here, glacial runoff
creates towering waterfalls.
616
00:35:35,259 --> 00:35:37,750
One of the tallest,
virgin falls,
617
00:35:37,761 --> 00:35:41,179
Cascades more than 170 feet.
618
00:35:44,017 --> 00:35:46,768
Rising global temperatures
have reduced
619
00:35:46,845 --> 00:35:49,688
The number of glaciers
on vancouver island
620
00:35:49,764 --> 00:35:52,348
To just five.
621
00:35:52,359 --> 00:35:55,193
Fewer glaciers means less water
to feed
622
00:35:55,320 --> 00:35:57,195
The hundreds of waterfalls
623
00:35:57,406 --> 00:36:00,532
That flow down
from the mountains.
624
00:36:00,609 --> 00:36:02,358
Some scientists predict
625
00:36:02,369 --> 00:36:05,036
That all of vancouver island's
glaciers
626
00:36:05,113 --> 00:36:07,864
Could be gone within 25 years.
627
00:36:07,875 --> 00:36:14,963
(♪♪♪)
628
00:36:15,040 --> 00:36:19,176
In some cases, melted glaciers
feed mountain lakes.
629
00:36:23,131 --> 00:36:26,558
Water from these lakes
feeds the surrounding forest
630
00:36:26,635 --> 00:36:29,227
To create a vibrant ecosystem
631
00:36:29,396 --> 00:36:31,980
Hundreds of feet
above sea level.
632
00:36:35,986 --> 00:36:38,645
But as the climate
continues to warm,
633
00:36:38,655 --> 00:36:42,815
These high alpine regions
are shrinking.
634
00:36:42,826 --> 00:36:46,786
Within the next century,
they may disappear completely.
635
00:36:50,408 --> 00:36:53,668
These secluded mountain tops
of vancouver island
636
00:36:53,745 --> 00:36:56,838
Provide a haven
for fragile ecosystems.
637
00:36:59,426 --> 00:37:03,845
Tucked away among the mountains
is henderson lake.
638
00:37:08,352 --> 00:37:10,426
This secluded body of water
639
00:37:10,437 --> 00:37:14,347
Sits on uchucklesaht
first nations land,
640
00:37:14,358 --> 00:37:16,683
A region that holds
special meaning
641
00:37:16,693 --> 00:37:18,693
To pacific first nations.
642
00:37:21,531 --> 00:37:23,281
For thousands of years,
643
00:37:23,492 --> 00:37:25,700
Henderson lake
teemed with salmon.
644
00:37:27,621 --> 00:37:30,956
Salmon runs here
were among the most spectacular
645
00:37:31,032 --> 00:37:32,874
In the world.
646
00:37:32,951 --> 00:37:36,786
There was enough fish
to feed entire communities.
647
00:37:36,797 --> 00:37:40,048
But disease
brought by european settlers
648
00:37:40,125 --> 00:37:43,301
Took its toll on tradition.
649
00:37:43,512 --> 00:37:45,136
>> we've been here
for thousands of years
650
00:37:45,213 --> 00:37:46,462
And at one time
651
00:37:46,473 --> 00:37:50,934
We were approximately 8,000
warriors strong
652
00:37:52,387 --> 00:37:54,312
A few hundred years ago.
653
00:37:54,389 --> 00:37:58,817
And through the epidemics
654
00:37:58,893 --> 00:38:00,393
And smallpox
655
00:38:00,404 --> 00:38:04,406
And those kind of events,
656
00:38:04,482 --> 00:38:07,483
We were basically diminished
657
00:38:07,494 --> 00:38:10,486
To very small numbers,
658
00:38:10,497 --> 00:38:12,488
Less than a hundred.
659
00:38:12,499 --> 00:38:13,990
And now we are growing,
660
00:38:14,001 --> 00:38:17,294
We are closed to 300 members
at this point.
661
00:38:21,842 --> 00:38:25,927
>> encircling henderson lake
are the five sacred mountains
662
00:38:26,004 --> 00:38:28,421
That have guarded
the spiritual secrets
663
00:38:28,432 --> 00:38:31,641
Of pacific first nations
for millennia.
664
00:38:35,764 --> 00:38:38,356
This is the thunderbird's nest,
665
00:38:38,433 --> 00:38:41,026
Home of the
mythical thunderbird.
666
00:38:41,102 --> 00:38:45,521
A supernatural creature
able to bring rain and lightning
667
00:38:45,532 --> 00:38:49,192
To vancouver island's
coastal rainforest.
668
00:38:49,202 --> 00:38:53,029
>> there's just a handful,
you can count on one hand,
669
00:38:53,040 --> 00:38:57,375
Of areas that you would call
the thunderbird's nest.
670
00:38:57,452 --> 00:39:00,703
And in our language it's called
the "t'iitsk'in pawaats".
671
00:39:00,714 --> 00:39:04,123
Every nation has stories
about having thunderbirds,
672
00:39:04,134 --> 00:39:06,626
But not thunderbird nest.
673
00:39:06,636 --> 00:39:09,137
>> according to ancient
mythology,
674
00:39:09,214 --> 00:39:13,132
The land was home
to a family of thunderbirds.
675
00:39:13,143 --> 00:39:15,727
Five birds inhabited the tops
of each
676
00:39:15,804 --> 00:39:19,481
Of the five sacred mountains
within the t'iitsk'in paawats.
677
00:39:20,975 --> 00:39:25,028
Over time, the mythical birds
began to leave the nest.
678
00:39:26,490 --> 00:39:29,157
Some were traded away
to neighboring tribes
679
00:39:29,234 --> 00:39:32,235
During times of wedding and war,
680
00:39:32,245 --> 00:39:36,122
Creating sacred bonds
that tied communities together.
681
00:39:39,577 --> 00:39:42,587
The thunderbird's nest
holds precious significance
682
00:39:42,664 --> 00:39:44,997
To pacific first nations
683
00:39:45,008 --> 00:39:48,510
And has never before
been filmed.
684
00:39:48,586 --> 00:39:51,921
The land remained
a well-guarded secret
685
00:39:51,932 --> 00:39:55,433
Until loggers attempted
to clear-cut the area
686
00:39:55,560 --> 00:39:57,593
And members
of the uchucklesaht tribe
687
00:39:57,604 --> 00:40:00,438
Took action to save it.
688
00:40:00,649 --> 00:40:03,108
>> not very many outside people
knew about the story
689
00:40:03,184 --> 00:40:07,103
Of the thunderbird's nest
and our secret ceremonies
690
00:40:07,114 --> 00:40:10,532
And the activities we carry out
in the nest.
691
00:40:10,608 --> 00:40:13,451
It came to light in the '90s.
692
00:40:13,620 --> 00:40:16,704
We were shocked and astonished
to learn that
693
00:40:16,781 --> 00:40:18,790
The forestry company
was logging out
694
00:40:18,867 --> 00:40:22,293
In the upper part
of the province.
695
00:40:22,370 --> 00:40:25,797
So we immediately went and met
with the forest companies
696
00:40:25,874 --> 00:40:28,291
And asked them to cease.
697
00:40:28,301 --> 00:40:30,885
And after much meeting,
and discussions
698
00:40:30,962 --> 00:40:34,130
And educating them
of our interest in the area,
699
00:40:34,141 --> 00:40:36,558
Of the spiritualness
and the sacredness of it,
700
00:40:36,634 --> 00:40:39,060
They agreed to stop harvesting.
701
00:40:43,224 --> 00:40:46,058
>> logging this area
would have been disastrous
702
00:40:46,069 --> 00:40:48,227
To the spiritual ancestry
703
00:40:48,238 --> 00:40:52,490
Of more than
14 pacific first nation tribes.
704
00:40:52,659 --> 00:40:56,494
>> my mother, at that time,
she was about 75 years old.
705
00:40:56,621 --> 00:40:58,654
And she said
if they're not willing
706
00:40:58,665 --> 00:41:00,156
To protect the area
707
00:41:00,167 --> 00:41:02,241
Or they're not prepared
to stop logging--
708
00:41:02,252 --> 00:41:03,576
When they were logging,
709
00:41:03,587 --> 00:41:07,088
She was gonna
make her way up there
710
00:41:07,165 --> 00:41:10,258
And park herself
in the middle of the road
711
00:41:10,335 --> 00:41:12,510
So nobody can haul any wood
out of there.
712
00:41:12,721 --> 00:41:15,513
So that's how determined
our people were
713
00:41:15,640 --> 00:41:18,007
To ensure that logging
would not happen
714
00:41:18,018 --> 00:41:21,186
In that spiritual area.
715
00:41:21,262 --> 00:41:23,021
>> first nations tribal councils
716
00:41:23,097 --> 00:41:26,524
Now govern the area
717
00:41:26,651 --> 00:41:30,528
Protecting more than 5,000 acres
from the logging industry
718
00:41:30,655 --> 00:41:32,280
For future generations.
719
00:41:35,744 --> 00:41:38,536
Because of its special ties
to the thunderbird,
720
00:41:38,613 --> 00:41:41,539
This land has been used
by the uchucklesaht people
721
00:41:41,616 --> 00:41:43,616
For sacred rituals
722
00:41:43,627 --> 00:41:47,795
Since long before the appearance
of europeans.
723
00:41:47,872 --> 00:41:52,133
Each piece of the nest
holds a specific sacred purpose.
724
00:41:53,762 --> 00:41:56,387
The lowest mountain
has a number of sacred ponds
725
00:41:56,464 --> 00:41:58,130
And waterfalls
726
00:41:58,141 --> 00:42:01,884
That are traditionally used
to cleanse a member of the tribe
727
00:42:01,895 --> 00:42:04,229
Before a difficult journey.
728
00:42:04,305 --> 00:42:06,731
>> it's a place where our people
729
00:42:06,808 --> 00:42:10,142
Went for ceremonies
and celebrations
730
00:42:10,153 --> 00:42:13,404
And the ceremonies ranging
731
00:42:13,481 --> 00:42:16,732
From 1 day or 1/2 a day
732
00:42:16,743 --> 00:42:19,577
To maybe a week to a month
or 8 months
733
00:42:19,746 --> 00:42:21,904
Depending on
what you were there
734
00:42:21,915 --> 00:42:23,540
To prepare yourself for.
735
00:42:26,327 --> 00:42:29,087
>> one of the most intense
spiritual practices
736
00:42:29,163 --> 00:42:32,840
In the thunderbird's nest
occurred prior to a whale hunt.
737
00:42:35,169 --> 00:42:38,421
Tribe members would camp alone
among the mountains
738
00:42:38,431 --> 00:42:40,256
For up to 8 months,
739
00:42:40,267 --> 00:42:44,602
Cleansing the body and mind
in preparation for a hunt,
740
00:42:44,771 --> 00:42:48,097
That, if successful,
could feed an entire family
741
00:42:48,108 --> 00:42:50,233
Throughout the winter.
742
00:42:51,861 --> 00:42:55,196
>> people often have big
reactions to the idea of whale
hunting
743
00:42:55,273 --> 00:43:00,034
And like very kind of gut level.
744
00:43:00,111 --> 00:43:02,370
But I think there is
a lack of understanding.
745
00:43:02,447 --> 00:43:06,457
There's intensive spiritual
and physical preparation
746
00:43:06,534 --> 00:43:09,127
That takes place
before going on a whale hunt.
747
00:43:09,203 --> 00:43:13,464
And there's so much respect
for these big animals
748
00:43:13,541 --> 00:43:17,969
And one of the incredible things
is that one of these animals
749
00:43:18,046 --> 00:43:21,639
Can feed so many people
and in former times,
750
00:43:21,766 --> 00:43:26,385
The oil,
the blubber of them was,
751
00:43:26,396 --> 00:43:28,146
You know, that was so precious.
752
00:43:28,222 --> 00:43:31,899
Because there wasn't other forms
of oil around here.
753
00:43:31,976 --> 00:43:34,861
>> smaller events took place
within the nest as well.
754
00:43:37,315 --> 00:43:40,033
Weddings commonly occurred
on its shores.
755
00:43:42,078 --> 00:43:46,906
Coming-of-age ceremonies
played out in its woods.
756
00:43:46,916 --> 00:43:49,492
Community members
walked these grounds
757
00:43:49,502 --> 00:43:52,411
While mourning the loss
of a loved one
758
00:43:52,422 --> 00:43:56,341
Or while preparing to give birth
to a new member of the tribe.
759
00:43:57,761 --> 00:44:01,253
These lands were a place
to prepare the body and mind
760
00:44:01,264 --> 00:44:03,473
For many of life's journeys.
761
00:44:05,176 --> 00:44:07,852
Each family
had their own bathing site
762
00:44:07,929 --> 00:44:11,439
Or place of worship
within the thunderbird's nest.
763
00:44:11,516 --> 00:44:15,351
A place so secret
that an intruder could be killed
764
00:44:15,362 --> 00:44:19,188
For entering the space
without invitation.
765
00:44:19,199 --> 00:44:21,941
>> some of our people
still practice these ceremonies
766
00:44:21,951 --> 00:44:24,026
And activities to this day.
767
00:44:24,037 --> 00:44:26,704
I still come up
at least once a year
768
00:44:26,781 --> 00:44:30,291
To do "osimich" which is
go into the water and bathe.
769
00:44:30,368 --> 00:44:33,119
And it's really good for
relieving your mind of stress
770
00:44:33,129 --> 00:44:34,954
And planning
for the rest of your week
771
00:44:34,964 --> 00:44:37,289
Or your month or your year.
772
00:44:37,300 --> 00:44:39,208
I usually come
in the winter months
773
00:44:39,219 --> 00:44:40,551
And go into the lake.
774
00:44:40,628 --> 00:44:42,553
And I sit in the lake
for up to an hour
775
00:44:42,630 --> 00:44:44,463
And it's really relaxing,
776
00:44:44,474 --> 00:44:45,890
You don't feel the cold
of the lake,
777
00:44:45,967 --> 00:44:48,226
The air is colder
than the water is
778
00:44:48,302 --> 00:44:49,519
In the winter months.
779
00:44:52,890 --> 00:44:54,982
>> these spiritual practices,
780
00:44:55,059 --> 00:44:57,902
So linked
with the natural surroundings,
781
00:44:57,979 --> 00:45:02,231
Are representative
of the island as a whole.
782
00:45:02,242 --> 00:45:04,900
This is a place
where humans and nature
783
00:45:04,911 --> 00:45:09,155
Have been inextricably linked
for millennia.
784
00:45:09,165 --> 00:45:11,749
>> we call it "god's country",
this whole area.
785
00:45:11,826 --> 00:45:13,993
It's just a place you come to
and you never forget
786
00:45:14,003 --> 00:45:16,421
And you don't wanna leave.
787
00:45:16,497 --> 00:45:18,756
It's such a powerful place
to be.
788
00:45:18,967 --> 00:45:21,333
When you're in there,
you feel the,
789
00:45:21,344 --> 00:45:23,594
You know,
the presence of nature,
790
00:45:23,671 --> 00:45:25,471
The presence of the creator.
791
00:45:34,098 --> 00:45:38,934
>> from the dense canopies
of ancient rainforests
792
00:45:38,945 --> 00:45:42,405
To the fungal roots
that connect sleeping giants,
793
00:45:44,951 --> 00:45:49,620
From the bears and salmon
that call this place home
794
00:45:49,697 --> 00:45:54,617
To the many different people
who live off the land,
795
00:45:54,627 --> 00:45:59,038
This magnificent landscape
is a rugged reminder
796
00:45:59,048 --> 00:46:01,841
Of a world
that thrived long ago.
797
00:46:03,470 --> 00:46:06,804
From its volcanic beginnings
798
00:46:06,881 --> 00:46:09,307
To its powerful ocean shores.
799
00:46:11,060 --> 00:46:14,887
From lush rainforests
800
00:46:14,898 --> 00:46:19,141
To magnificent islands
in the sky.
801
00:46:19,152 --> 00:46:22,978
It is an age-old landscape
802
00:46:22,989 --> 00:46:26,908
That continues to preserve
ancient ways of life.
803
00:46:28,402 --> 00:46:38,410
(♪♪♪)
804
00:46:38,421 --> 00:46:48,262
(♪♪♪)
68441
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