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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:04,455 --> 00:00:09,049 The wild pacific coast of vancouver island. 2 00:00:09,126 --> 00:00:11,376 An ancient and rugged landscape 3 00:00:11,387 --> 00:00:14,263 Off the western shore of british columbia. 4 00:00:17,885 --> 00:00:21,437 From the icy peaks of age-old mountain glaciers... 5 00:00:23,474 --> 00:00:27,484 ...To the fog-shrouded canopies of canada's only rainforest, 6 00:00:29,655 --> 00:00:33,032 This is the wettest place in north america. 7 00:00:34,485 --> 00:00:36,234 A primitive habitat 8 00:00:36,245 --> 00:00:40,155 Where the pacific ocean holds the key to life. 9 00:00:40,166 --> 00:00:42,082 >> that's why this is one of the most remarkable places 10 00:00:42,159 --> 00:00:43,792 On earth. 11 00:00:45,162 --> 00:00:47,755 >> a land locked in time, 12 00:00:47,831 --> 00:00:51,249 Where nature and the human spirit coexist. 13 00:00:51,260 --> 00:00:55,262 >> it's just everything you'd want if you're an adventurous person. 14 00:00:55,339 --> 00:00:57,931 >> a paradise for creatures 15 00:00:58,008 --> 00:01:01,259 Adapted to life by the sea. 16 00:01:01,270 --> 00:01:03,762 And a never-before-seen view 17 00:01:03,773 --> 00:01:08,266 Of one of the most sacred places on earth. 18 00:01:08,277 --> 00:01:18,285 (♪♪♪) 19 00:01:18,362 --> 00:01:28,286 (♪♪♪) 20 00:01:28,297 --> 00:01:43,185 (♪♪♪) 21 00:01:56,909 --> 00:02:01,120 Vancouver island's pacific coast, 22 00:02:02,915 --> 00:02:07,668 A lush old-growth rainforest that spans nearly 300 miles 23 00:02:07,744 --> 00:02:11,130 Of the western shores of british columbia, canada. 24 00:02:14,251 --> 00:02:16,844 It's the largest island on the western coast 25 00:02:16,920 --> 00:02:19,596 Of the americas. 26 00:02:19,673 --> 00:02:22,808 And the wettest place in north america. 27 00:02:25,429 --> 00:02:29,347 Winters here are moist and mild. 28 00:02:29,358 --> 00:02:34,194 Temperatures rarely dip below 30°. 29 00:02:34,321 --> 00:02:36,947 It is an unusually warm climate 30 00:02:37,024 --> 00:02:40,617 In a country known for its raw and bitter winters. 31 00:02:43,330 --> 00:02:45,706 Surprisingly, the small town of tofino, 32 00:02:45,782 --> 00:02:47,541 On the western shore, 33 00:02:47,618 --> 00:02:52,212 Receives the least snow of any town in canada. 34 00:02:52,289 --> 00:02:56,800 But what it lacks in snow, tofino makes up for with rain. 35 00:02:59,430 --> 00:03:03,640 As many as 27 feet of rain fall on tofino each year. 36 00:03:05,394 --> 00:03:07,644 The downpours are seasonal. 37 00:03:07,721 --> 00:03:11,064 December alone brings more rain to the town 38 00:03:11,141 --> 00:03:13,483 Than some parts of british columbia receive 39 00:03:13,560 --> 00:03:15,903 In an entire year. 40 00:03:15,979 --> 00:03:18,730 As a result, the region is home 41 00:03:18,741 --> 00:03:22,034 To one of the world's most unusual ecosystems, 42 00:03:23,904 --> 00:03:27,414 A temperate coastal rainforest. 43 00:03:27,491 --> 00:03:31,409 In summer, steady heat brings little rain. 44 00:03:31,420 --> 00:03:34,213 And the climate feels almost mediterranean. 45 00:03:36,508 --> 00:03:40,219 This truly is a place like no other in canada. 46 00:03:45,935 --> 00:03:48,018 Vancouver island sits on top 47 00:03:48,095 --> 00:03:52,940 Of the westward-moving north american tectonic plate. 48 00:03:53,016 --> 00:03:56,276 It's part of the ring of fire, 49 00:03:56,487 --> 00:03:59,696 A string of volcanoes, deep ocean trenches, 50 00:03:59,773 --> 00:04:03,242 And earthquake zones that circles the pacific ocean. 51 00:04:05,120 --> 00:04:08,455 It's an area renowned for its violent geology 52 00:04:08,532 --> 00:04:10,415 And volcanic activity. 53 00:04:13,870 --> 00:04:15,036 >> if you look at the direction 54 00:04:15,047 --> 00:04:16,538 In which all the continents are moving, 55 00:04:16,548 --> 00:04:18,382 You'll see that they're encroaching 56 00:04:18,458 --> 00:04:20,300 On the pacific. 57 00:04:20,469 --> 00:04:22,469 So it's probably the most dangerous part 58 00:04:22,546 --> 00:04:24,129 Of the planet, 59 00:04:24,139 --> 00:04:26,881 Because that process, and we call it "subduction", 60 00:04:26,892 --> 00:04:30,811 Generates enormous great earthquakes. 61 00:04:30,887 --> 00:04:34,648 It generates volcanoes, it generates tidal waves. 62 00:04:36,893 --> 00:04:39,486 >> continental drift causes landmasses 63 00:04:39,563 --> 00:04:43,323 To move dramatically over time. 64 00:04:43,492 --> 00:04:45,900 Vancouver island is a perfect example 65 00:04:45,911 --> 00:04:47,995 Of this phenomenon at work. 66 00:04:51,491 --> 00:04:54,584 The island began its journey much farther south 67 00:04:54,661 --> 00:04:57,170 Than it is today. 68 00:04:57,247 --> 00:04:59,581 It sits atop a large piece of crust 69 00:04:59,591 --> 00:05:01,508 Called "wrangellia". 70 00:05:03,420 --> 00:05:08,015 Born near the equator about 380 million years ago, 71 00:05:08,091 --> 00:05:12,436 Wrangellia slowly drifted northeast along fault lines 72 00:05:12,512 --> 00:05:16,106 At a rate of about 1 foot every 7 years. 73 00:05:16,183 --> 00:05:18,525 As it moved and fractured, 74 00:05:18,602 --> 00:05:22,362 The chunk of crust carried several different land masses 75 00:05:22,573 --> 00:05:25,949 Colliding into the north american plate. 76 00:05:26,026 --> 00:05:28,952 These include southeast alaska, 77 00:05:29,029 --> 00:05:31,121 The haida gwaii archipelago 78 00:05:31,198 --> 00:05:33,707 On the north coast of british columbia, 79 00:05:33,784 --> 00:05:36,376 And vancouver island. 80 00:05:36,503 --> 00:05:39,954 >> it's like you pushing a broom across the floor 81 00:05:39,965 --> 00:05:42,466 And sweeping up debris. 82 00:05:42,542 --> 00:05:45,135 And so there's been a whole re-evaluation 83 00:05:45,212 --> 00:05:47,971 Of the geology of western canada, 84 00:05:48,048 --> 00:05:51,641 And geologists now realize it's a mosaic. 85 00:05:51,718 --> 00:05:53,560 And the pieces actually originate 86 00:05:53,637 --> 00:05:55,637 From thousands of kilometers away, 87 00:05:55,647 --> 00:05:57,397 And they've been added to the west coast 88 00:05:57,524 --> 00:05:59,816 Of north america. 89 00:05:59,893 --> 00:06:02,903 >> perhaps, surprisingly, this is not the last stop 90 00:06:02,979 --> 00:06:05,822 For vancouver island. 91 00:06:05,899 --> 00:06:08,408 It continues to drift north-eastward 92 00:06:08,535 --> 00:06:10,494 Toward mainland canada, 93 00:06:10,570 --> 00:06:13,738 About 1 to 2 inches each year, 94 00:06:13,749 --> 00:06:16,625 The same speed at which fingernails grow. 95 00:06:18,629 --> 00:06:21,671 Eventually, in about 500,000 years, 96 00:06:21,748 --> 00:06:24,674 The island will collide with the mainland 97 00:06:24,751 --> 00:06:29,170 To create a new landmass. 98 00:06:29,181 --> 00:06:32,766 Tectonic plate movement in this part of the ring of fire 99 00:06:32,843 --> 00:06:34,518 Is dangerous 100 00:06:34,594 --> 00:06:37,262 And it's not necessarily millions of years 101 00:06:37,272 --> 00:06:40,098 Into the future. 102 00:06:40,109 --> 00:06:42,442 There's something far more imminent 103 00:06:42,611 --> 00:06:45,112 That's of particular concern to scientists. 104 00:06:47,866 --> 00:06:50,033 A megathrust earthquake, 105 00:06:50,110 --> 00:06:52,953 Known locally as "the really big one". 106 00:06:55,666 --> 00:06:57,699 This earthquake is predicted to rival 107 00:06:57,709 --> 00:07:00,460 The disastrous quake and tsunami 108 00:07:00,587 --> 00:07:03,672 That devastated parts of japan in 2011. 109 00:07:05,551 --> 00:07:10,470 Vancouver island sits along the cascadia subduction zone 110 00:07:10,597 --> 00:07:14,474 Where the north america and juan de fuca tectonic plates 111 00:07:14,601 --> 00:07:17,561 Are locked in a standoff. 112 00:07:17,637 --> 00:07:20,555 >> all the stress is building up, 113 00:07:20,566 --> 00:07:22,891 And there's a lot of anticipation 114 00:07:22,901 --> 00:07:26,570 And concern about when those plates unlock. 115 00:07:26,646 --> 00:07:28,488 And we get what we call a mega earthquake, 116 00:07:28,565 --> 00:07:30,824 A megathrust earthquake. 117 00:07:30,901 --> 00:07:33,735 And it could be tomorrow, it could be next year 118 00:07:33,745 --> 00:07:35,820 Or maybe a thousand years' time. 119 00:07:35,831 --> 00:07:38,915 But there is a history in the rocks there 120 00:07:38,992 --> 00:07:42,752 Of these repeated megathrust earthquakes. 121 00:07:42,829 --> 00:07:45,505 At a predicted magnitude of more than 9 122 00:07:45,582 --> 00:07:47,507 On the richter scale, 123 00:07:47,718 --> 00:07:51,586 An earthquake this large would trigger a massive tsunami, 124 00:07:51,597 --> 00:07:54,589 Nearly 400 miles wide. 125 00:07:54,600 --> 00:07:57,675 Spanning from san francisco, california, 126 00:07:57,686 --> 00:07:59,769 To juneau, alaska, 127 00:07:59,846 --> 00:08:02,522 And across the ocean to the far shores 128 00:08:02,733 --> 00:08:04,483 Of the western pacific. 129 00:08:06,195 --> 00:08:09,279 The earthquake would devastate large cities 130 00:08:09,356 --> 00:08:13,283 Including vancouver, victoria, portland, and seattle. 131 00:08:15,787 --> 00:08:18,747 A quake like this is unavoidable. 132 00:08:20,200 --> 00:08:23,960 The question is when will it strike? 133 00:08:25,789 --> 00:08:27,872 Geological records show 134 00:08:27,883 --> 00:08:30,208 That the last megathrust earthquake 135 00:08:30,219 --> 00:08:35,129 Hit the pacific coast in the year 1700. 136 00:08:35,140 --> 00:08:38,800 Scientists say there is a one-in-three chance 137 00:08:38,810 --> 00:08:42,312 It will happen again within the next 50 years. 138 00:08:43,974 --> 00:08:46,057 Vancouver, british columbia, 139 00:08:46,068 --> 00:08:49,236 Could be among the cities worst affected. 140 00:08:49,312 --> 00:08:52,739 >> vancouver is built largely on very soft sediment 141 00:08:52,816 --> 00:08:55,242 Which was brought down by the fraser river. 142 00:08:55,318 --> 00:08:57,577 So you've got this rather unstable situation 143 00:08:57,654 --> 00:08:59,821 Of wet sediment. 144 00:08:59,831 --> 00:09:04,084 And we know from places like japan, 145 00:09:04,160 --> 00:09:05,919 When you shake that wet sediment, 146 00:09:05,996 --> 00:09:08,255 It very often turns into a liquid. 147 00:09:08,331 --> 00:09:10,590 Buildings literally fall down 148 00:09:10,759 --> 00:09:14,252 Through the softened sediment and tilt. 149 00:09:14,263 --> 00:09:17,672 So the effects of the megathrust earthquake 150 00:09:17,683 --> 00:09:20,425 Can be actually magnified, 151 00:09:20,435 --> 00:09:22,435 Because most of the city is underlined 152 00:09:22,512 --> 00:09:24,854 By soft, wet sediment. 153 00:09:26,775 --> 00:09:29,851 >> for now, the same geological processes 154 00:09:29,861 --> 00:09:32,279 That threaten vancouver island 155 00:09:32,355 --> 00:09:36,032 Breathe life into its ecosystems. 156 00:09:36,109 --> 00:09:39,944 As fragments of plates have subducted under the island, 157 00:09:39,955 --> 00:09:44,374 Its interior mountain range has risen up above. 158 00:09:44,451 --> 00:09:47,785 This mountain chain forms a rain shadow, 159 00:09:47,796 --> 00:09:51,456 An impenetrable wall of rock that prevents moisture 160 00:09:51,466 --> 00:09:55,385 Moving inland from the ocean from passing over its peaks. 161 00:09:56,805 --> 00:09:59,380 It's the strongest factor in the creation 162 00:09:59,391 --> 00:10:03,301 Of the pacific temperate rainforest. 163 00:10:03,312 --> 00:10:07,147 By trapping precipitation on the west side of the island, 164 00:10:07,223 --> 00:10:11,059 The mountains cause huge amounts of fog and rainfall 165 00:10:11,069 --> 00:10:13,903 Along the island's pacific coast, 166 00:10:13,980 --> 00:10:18,908 Creating a lush rainforest unlike any other. 167 00:10:18,985 --> 00:10:22,662 On the edge of this unlikely northern jungle 168 00:10:22,831 --> 00:10:25,081 Is meares island, 169 00:10:25,158 --> 00:10:28,335 An ancient-growth forest that's been held sacred 170 00:10:28,411 --> 00:10:30,920 For more than a thousand years. 171 00:10:30,997 --> 00:10:32,413 (birds chirping) 172 00:10:32,424 --> 00:10:34,924 Meares island is home to some of the largest 173 00:10:35,001 --> 00:10:38,836 And oldest trees on earth, 174 00:10:38,847 --> 00:10:41,339 1,500-year-old cedars 175 00:10:41,350 --> 00:10:45,510 Tended by local tla-o-qui-aht first nations. 176 00:10:45,520 --> 00:10:50,023 It is a harmonious relationship between humans and nature 177 00:10:50,100 --> 00:10:52,942 That has stood the test of time. 178 00:10:53,019 --> 00:10:55,528 >> we have an inter-generational responsibility 179 00:10:55,605 --> 00:10:59,190 That is passed on, you know, to be taking care 180 00:10:59,201 --> 00:11:01,701 Not only of the land, but the ocean, the rivers, 181 00:11:01,870 --> 00:11:05,029 And all the living things that are in this area. 182 00:11:05,040 --> 00:11:08,208 (birds chirping in distance) 183 00:11:08,284 --> 00:11:12,671 >> meares island is canada's first official tribal park. 184 00:11:13,965 --> 00:11:17,384 Faced by the threat of logging in the 1980s, 185 00:11:17,460 --> 00:11:20,553 Local people fought to protect their sacred land 186 00:11:20,630 --> 00:11:22,514 From deforestation. 187 00:11:23,967 --> 00:11:27,727 After intense negotiations with the canadian government, 188 00:11:27,804 --> 00:11:29,729 They were successful. 189 00:11:29,940 --> 00:11:33,942 And meares island was declared a tribal park in 1984. 190 00:11:37,147 --> 00:11:41,157 Now under the watchful eye of tla-o-qui-aht first nations, 191 00:11:41,234 --> 00:11:44,318 The island is used as a nature park, 192 00:11:44,329 --> 00:11:47,580 Where visitors can sit among some of the oldest trees 193 00:11:47,657 --> 00:11:49,332 On the planet. 194 00:11:49,409 --> 00:11:53,002 (birds chirping in distance) 195 00:11:53,079 --> 00:11:56,172 Here on meares island's big tree trail 196 00:11:56,249 --> 00:11:59,843 Stands one of the largest and oldest living organisms 197 00:11:59,919 --> 00:12:01,344 On earth... 198 00:12:01,421 --> 00:12:03,504 (birds chirping in distance) 199 00:12:03,515 --> 00:12:07,258 ...The hanging garden tree. 200 00:12:07,269 --> 00:12:10,854 A western red cedar 60 feet wide, 201 00:12:10,930 --> 00:12:14,107 It's more than 2,000 years old. 202 00:12:14,184 --> 00:12:18,194 And was likely just a sapling at the dawn of christianity. 203 00:12:20,857 --> 00:12:23,783 Some of these ancient red cedars can reach heights 204 00:12:23,910 --> 00:12:27,612 Of more than 170 feet. 205 00:12:27,622 --> 00:12:31,449 There are only a few of these majestic giants left 206 00:12:31,460 --> 00:12:34,043 On vancouver island. 207 00:12:34,120 --> 00:12:37,547 Years of deforestation and development destroyed 208 00:12:37,624 --> 00:12:40,875 Much of the island's old growth. 209 00:12:40,886 --> 00:12:43,461 But the time-worn cedars that do remain 210 00:12:43,472 --> 00:12:46,806 Are able to grow to staggering proportions 211 00:12:46,975 --> 00:12:49,225 Due to the torrents of precipitation that fall 212 00:12:49,302 --> 00:12:53,480 Each year. 213 00:12:53,556 --> 00:12:58,067 Heavy rainfall in the winter and extreme fog in the summer 214 00:12:58,144 --> 00:13:01,654 Create a constant dampness that prevents forest fires 215 00:13:01,731 --> 00:13:05,241 From igniting and burning down these ancient woods. 216 00:13:09,956 --> 00:13:12,832 But it isn't just a warm, sodden climate 217 00:13:13,043 --> 00:13:16,252 That keeps this forest flourishing. 218 00:13:16,329 --> 00:13:19,997 It's protected by another guardian. 219 00:13:20,008 --> 00:13:23,843 One so small, it's easily overlooked, 220 00:13:23,970 --> 00:13:26,429 Buried beneath the feet of visitors. 221 00:13:26,506 --> 00:13:28,089 Yet so large, 222 00:13:28,099 --> 00:13:30,508 It connects the trees of the forest, 223 00:13:30,519 --> 00:13:35,271 Forming one of the most immense organisms on earth, 224 00:13:35,348 --> 00:13:38,266 Fungus. 225 00:13:38,276 --> 00:13:42,821 Fungus is the lifeblood of this rainforest ecosystem. 226 00:13:44,032 --> 00:13:47,033 It feeds nutrients to trees and animals 227 00:13:47,110 --> 00:13:48,868 Through a living network 228 00:13:49,037 --> 00:13:52,914 That exists just below the mossy forest floor. 229 00:13:55,001 --> 00:13:57,627 >> you're on a living mat 230 00:13:57,704 --> 00:14:01,956 That connects one tree species to another tree species. 231 00:14:01,967 --> 00:14:06,678 >> each tree is connected to others by fungal roots called mycelium. 232 00:14:08,974 --> 00:14:13,309 These strands of living tissue carry nitrogen and phosphorous, 233 00:14:13,386 --> 00:14:16,053 Nutrients that help plants grow. 234 00:14:19,067 --> 00:14:20,900 The connections are so strong 235 00:14:21,111 --> 00:14:24,145 That cutting down a tree in one end of the forest 236 00:14:24,155 --> 00:14:26,948 Can impact a tree on the opposite end. 237 00:14:29,077 --> 00:14:31,319 This fungal network has been called 238 00:14:31,329 --> 00:14:33,913 "earth's natural internet" 239 00:14:34,124 --> 00:14:35,915 And can serve as a warning system 240 00:14:35,992 --> 00:14:38,543 For impending disease. 241 00:14:43,333 --> 00:14:46,334 Trees pick up on chemical signals of distress 242 00:14:46,344 --> 00:14:50,430 From their neighbors that travel through the network. 243 00:14:50,506 --> 00:14:54,350 >> all of these creatures, these tree creatures, 244 00:14:54,427 --> 00:14:57,520 These ents, as in lord of the rings , 245 00:14:57,597 --> 00:15:01,357 Truly are connected by a real physical 246 00:15:01,434 --> 00:15:03,151 And biological connection. 247 00:15:04,520 --> 00:15:07,447 >> like the constant moisture of the rainforest, 248 00:15:07,523 --> 00:15:11,910 This fungal network is key to the survival of old growth. 249 00:15:13,371 --> 00:15:17,290 It provides 1,000-year-old trees with the nutrients they need 250 00:15:17,367 --> 00:15:20,117 To keep growing. 251 00:15:20,128 --> 00:15:22,629 Although science does not yet fully understand 252 00:15:22,705 --> 00:15:25,039 The complexity of these networks, 253 00:15:25,050 --> 00:15:27,133 It's clear that this unique habitat 254 00:15:27,210 --> 00:15:30,470 Could not exist without them. 255 00:15:30,546 --> 00:15:32,129 >> when you go out into the forest, 256 00:15:32,140 --> 00:15:34,298 You're walking on life. 257 00:15:34,309 --> 00:15:37,134 Life connecting with other creatures. 258 00:15:37,145 --> 00:15:39,979 It's not some spiritual thing, it's a real thing. 259 00:15:40,190 --> 00:15:43,224 Yet behind it is this spirit of life, 260 00:15:43,234 --> 00:15:45,318 The spirit of evolution, 261 00:15:45,395 --> 00:15:47,487 That's why this is one of the most remarkable places 262 00:15:47,563 --> 00:15:49,989 On earth. 263 00:15:50,116 --> 00:15:52,992 >> this remarkable place is also home 264 00:15:53,119 --> 00:15:57,571 To a diversity of wildlife, nourished by the lush forests 265 00:15:57,582 --> 00:16:00,408 And nutrient-rich inter-tidal zones. 266 00:16:03,246 --> 00:16:06,673 Here, a black bear goes in search of breakfast. 267 00:16:08,593 --> 00:16:12,503 Hungry predators like him take advantage of low tides 268 00:16:12,514 --> 00:16:16,432 That expose small prey in the early morning 269 00:16:16,509 --> 00:16:19,769 And turn shorelines into a buffet of mollusks 270 00:16:19,846 --> 00:16:21,729 And crustaceans. 271 00:16:24,183 --> 00:16:28,987 It's 8:00 a.M., low tide and the best time to find food. 272 00:16:30,782 --> 00:16:33,190 But it's a race against the clock, 273 00:16:33,201 --> 00:16:36,035 Every minute counts. 274 00:16:36,246 --> 00:16:40,206 In just a few hours, the high tide will wash back in, 275 00:16:40,283 --> 00:16:44,201 Hiding prey under more than 9 feet of water. 276 00:16:44,212 --> 00:16:45,712 But for now, 277 00:16:45,788 --> 00:16:49,549 Clams, oysters, and crabs are ripe for the picking. 278 00:16:51,386 --> 00:16:53,627 The black bear is the smallest bear 279 00:16:53,638 --> 00:16:56,881 Of the three species in north america. 280 00:16:56,891 --> 00:17:00,810 But this is no average black bear. 281 00:17:00,887 --> 00:17:04,388 This is a vancouver island black bear, 282 00:17:04,399 --> 00:17:08,317 An endemic subspecies of the common black bear. 283 00:17:08,394 --> 00:17:12,813 Here, the bears run larger than their mainland cousins. 284 00:17:12,824 --> 00:17:16,400 Females weigh an average of 400 pounds, 285 00:17:16,411 --> 00:17:20,821 While males can tip the scales at more than 600 pounds, 286 00:17:20,832 --> 00:17:24,917 The weight of a large touring motorcycle. 287 00:17:24,994 --> 00:17:27,837 Green shore crabs scuttle off, 288 00:17:27,914 --> 00:17:30,882 Wary of the bears that feed on this bank. 289 00:17:33,252 --> 00:17:36,670 They're common on the shores of vancouver island 290 00:17:36,681 --> 00:17:38,723 And make a tasty snack. 291 00:17:43,262 --> 00:17:46,105 The breakfast buffet of the inter-tidal zone 292 00:17:46,182 --> 00:17:49,609 Feeds more than the local bear population. 293 00:17:49,685 --> 00:17:54,113 (seagulls screeching) 294 00:17:54,324 --> 00:17:56,783 Crows and gulls also take advantage 295 00:17:56,859 --> 00:18:01,779 Of the exposed shoreline, pecking for small prey 296 00:18:01,790 --> 00:18:05,374 And scavenging the remains left by larger animals. 297 00:18:07,295 --> 00:18:10,379 These opportunistic hunters find plenty of food 298 00:18:10,456 --> 00:18:14,383 On the nutrient-rich beaches. 299 00:18:14,460 --> 00:18:16,877 Larger birds make this coastline home 300 00:18:16,888 --> 00:18:18,304 As well. 301 00:18:18,381 --> 00:18:22,141 A bald eagle rests in a cedar tree, 302 00:18:22,218 --> 00:18:26,646 Its keen eyes able to spot small prey 100 feet below. 303 00:18:28,316 --> 00:18:32,110 Eagles find easy meals on these shores during low-tide. 304 00:18:36,983 --> 00:18:40,451 Today, the shores begin to clear out around noon. 305 00:18:42,238 --> 00:18:46,657 The feast dies down as the high tides creep back in. 306 00:18:49,495 --> 00:18:53,497 But another kind of frenzy is just getting started. 307 00:18:53,508 --> 00:18:59,595 (♪♪♪) 308 00:18:59,672 --> 00:19:03,007 Powerful waves crash along the shores, 309 00:19:03,017 --> 00:19:07,353 Creating ideal conditions for the best surfing in canada. 310 00:19:09,348 --> 00:19:12,850 With more than 20 miles of surf-able beach break, 311 00:19:12,861 --> 00:19:15,194 Tofino is known worldwide 312 00:19:15,271 --> 00:19:18,272 As a top spot to catch a wave. 313 00:19:18,283 --> 00:19:20,941 Surfers flock here year-round. 314 00:19:20,952 --> 00:19:22,526 >> I really like surfing early in the morning, 315 00:19:22,537 --> 00:19:25,204 Before the wind picks up and before people wake up. 316 00:19:25,281 --> 00:19:28,032 You can, you know, find waves where it'll just be you 317 00:19:28,042 --> 00:19:30,209 And your friends surfing for 3 or 4 days 318 00:19:30,286 --> 00:19:33,045 If you make the effort to maybe go on a plane ride 319 00:19:33,122 --> 00:19:35,715 Or a boat ride or really hike down 320 00:19:35,791 --> 00:19:37,291 In through some forests. 321 00:19:37,302 --> 00:19:38,634 Or if you just wanna be lazy and surf, 322 00:19:38,711 --> 00:19:40,711 The beaches are right on your doorstep. 323 00:19:40,722 --> 00:19:43,222 Uh, there's probably about five or six beaches 324 00:19:43,349 --> 00:19:44,974 That you can surf here. 325 00:19:47,729 --> 00:19:52,190 >> water temperatures remain cool but consistent at about 50°. 326 00:19:54,402 --> 00:19:58,571 Surfing here is a year-round sport. 327 00:19:58,648 --> 00:20:01,065 The largest waves come in winter, 328 00:20:01,075 --> 00:20:05,319 When the surf rises with powerful swells. 329 00:20:05,330 --> 00:20:09,749 But each surfer's ideal wave is different. 330 00:20:09,825 --> 00:20:11,659 >> my favorite time of year to surf is the fall. 331 00:20:11,669 --> 00:20:13,753 When the water is still kind of warm 332 00:20:13,829 --> 00:20:15,254 From the summer, 333 00:20:15,465 --> 00:20:17,506 But the waves start to get bigger, 334 00:20:17,583 --> 00:20:20,751 And we start to get some bigger swells coming in. 335 00:20:20,762 --> 00:20:24,338 >> chesterman beach, with its dramatic v-shape, 336 00:20:24,349 --> 00:20:26,349 Is a surfer's playground. 337 00:20:28,436 --> 00:20:31,345 Dissected at its point by frank island, 338 00:20:31,356 --> 00:20:34,232 The beach is split perfectly in two. 339 00:20:35,526 --> 00:20:37,935 South chesterman packs a punch 340 00:20:37,946 --> 00:20:40,780 With southern swells and northwest winds. 341 00:20:42,525 --> 00:20:45,776 North chesterman provides the opposite experience, 342 00:20:45,787 --> 00:20:49,872 With climbing north-west swells and south-easterly winds. 343 00:20:51,626 --> 00:20:56,545 Surfers don wetsuits to ward off chilly water temperatures. 344 00:20:56,622 --> 00:21:00,708 And there are other hazards for surfers in tofino. 345 00:21:00,718 --> 00:21:03,052 In addition to bears on the beach, 346 00:21:03,129 --> 00:21:06,555 There are orcas in these waters. 347 00:21:06,632 --> 00:21:09,308 Surfers have been forced out of the sea 348 00:21:09,435 --> 00:21:12,311 By circling pods of killer whales, 349 00:21:12,438 --> 00:21:14,730 Though there's never been an attack. 350 00:21:14,807 --> 00:21:17,725 For nature lovers and adventure seekers, 351 00:21:17,735 --> 00:21:21,562 There is more to tofino than rolling waves. 352 00:21:21,572 --> 00:21:26,066 >> if I'm not surfing, I'm hiking and not just hiking the beaches. 353 00:21:26,077 --> 00:21:28,327 Like within an hour's drive from here, 354 00:21:28,454 --> 00:21:30,154 You can hike up a beautiful mountain 355 00:21:30,164 --> 00:21:32,665 Like up a waterfall and swim in a lake, 356 00:21:32,742 --> 00:21:34,074 You know, up the top. 357 00:21:34,085 --> 00:21:35,918 It's just everything you'd want 358 00:21:35,995 --> 00:21:38,754 If you're an adventurous, fun-loving person. 359 00:21:44,003 --> 00:21:47,346 >> but other places along the same stretch of shoreline 360 00:21:47,423 --> 00:21:50,016 Are not so hospitable. 361 00:21:50,092 --> 00:21:53,352 The pacific coastal region between northern oregon 362 00:21:53,521 --> 00:21:55,596 And the top of vancouver island 363 00:21:55,606 --> 00:22:00,359 Is one of north america's most treacherous coastlines. 364 00:22:00,486 --> 00:22:04,697 Unpredictable weather, jagged shores, and intense fog 365 00:22:04,774 --> 00:22:07,191 Have sunk thousands of ships, 366 00:22:07,201 --> 00:22:10,119 Earning this stretch of coastline the nickname, 367 00:22:10,196 --> 00:22:12,330 "the graveyard of the pacific". 368 00:22:15,043 --> 00:22:17,543 The historic amphitrite lighthouse 369 00:22:17,620 --> 00:22:19,211 Has helped sailors navigate 370 00:22:19,288 --> 00:22:21,455 The island's treacherous coastlines 371 00:22:21,466 --> 00:22:24,383 For more than 100 years. 372 00:22:24,460 --> 00:22:27,636 The lighthouse was built in 1906 373 00:22:27,713 --> 00:22:30,798 After the tragic sinking of the pass of melfort 374 00:22:30,808 --> 00:22:32,850 In the winter of 1905. 375 00:22:34,520 --> 00:22:37,054 The four-masted, steel-hulled ship 376 00:22:37,065 --> 00:22:40,974 Was on its way to seattle on a routine timber run 377 00:22:40,985 --> 00:22:45,229 Until seasonal storms whipped up deadly waves, 378 00:22:45,239 --> 00:22:48,982 Leaving the vessel in ruin just 160 feet 379 00:22:48,993 --> 00:22:52,745 Off the shore of amphitrite point. 380 00:22:52,822 --> 00:22:56,123 The tragedy left 36 people dead. 381 00:22:57,993 --> 00:23:02,171 Since then, the lighthouse has guided sailors to safety 382 00:23:02,248 --> 00:23:05,424 Through thick fog along rocky coasts. 383 00:23:05,501 --> 00:23:09,637 (waves splashing in distance) 384 00:23:13,643 --> 00:23:16,435 The most ancient layers of vancouver island 385 00:23:16,604 --> 00:23:19,438 Are comprised of marine volcanic rock 386 00:23:19,515 --> 00:23:22,608 Formed by undersea lava deposits 387 00:23:22,685 --> 00:23:25,069 More than 300 million years ago. 388 00:23:26,656 --> 00:23:29,022 Over millennia, the calcium shells 389 00:23:29,033 --> 00:23:32,609 Of countless marine animals added to the rock 390 00:23:32,620 --> 00:23:36,029 To create limestone. 391 00:23:36,040 --> 00:23:39,283 These ancient rocks formed long colonnades 392 00:23:39,293 --> 00:23:42,211 That jut out into the pacific ocean, 393 00:23:42,288 --> 00:23:46,132 Posing hazards for passing ships. 394 00:23:46,208 --> 00:23:49,209 But even more dangerous than the jagged rock 395 00:23:49,220 --> 00:23:53,139 Is the unrelenting fog. 396 00:23:53,215 --> 00:23:56,300 August on the west coast of vancouver island 397 00:23:56,310 --> 00:24:00,229 Is nicknamed "fogust". 398 00:24:00,306 --> 00:24:04,224 Two types of fog cloak the west coast, 399 00:24:04,235 --> 00:24:07,486 Radiation and advection. 400 00:24:07,655 --> 00:24:10,739 Radiation fog is common during late summer 401 00:24:10,816 --> 00:24:12,983 And is created when surface temperatures 402 00:24:12,994 --> 00:24:15,736 Cool rapidly at night. 403 00:24:15,746 --> 00:24:19,081 Ground water evaporates into warmer air, 404 00:24:19,158 --> 00:24:22,084 Condensing as a thin layer of surface cloud 405 00:24:22,161 --> 00:24:24,661 Close to ground. 406 00:24:24,672 --> 00:24:28,999 Daytime rising temperatures typically burn off radiation fog 407 00:24:29,010 --> 00:24:31,594 By mid-afternoon. 408 00:24:31,670 --> 00:24:35,514 But advection fog can last for several days 409 00:24:35,683 --> 00:24:39,101 When warm, moist air blows across cooler land 410 00:24:39,178 --> 00:24:41,687 Or water. 411 00:24:41,764 --> 00:24:43,764 The fog is an essential part 412 00:24:43,774 --> 00:24:47,935 Of the pacific coast's rainforest ecosystem. 413 00:24:47,945 --> 00:24:50,029 During the dry summer, 414 00:24:50,105 --> 00:24:54,617 It supplies the forests with much-needed moisture. 415 00:24:54,693 --> 00:24:57,786 Fog drip accounts for more than 35% 416 00:24:57,863 --> 00:25:00,581 Of the rainforest's annual precipitation. 417 00:25:02,284 --> 00:25:04,543 Without this thick haze, 418 00:25:04,712 --> 00:25:09,122 Canada's only rainforest could not survive. 419 00:25:09,133 --> 00:25:11,550 Life on this remarkable island 420 00:25:11,627 --> 00:25:15,012 Depends on the delicate balance of its ecosystems. 421 00:25:16,724 --> 00:25:19,391 Like waves of the pacific shore, 422 00:25:19,468 --> 00:25:24,221 Life here ebbs and flows in a natural rhythm. 423 00:25:24,232 --> 00:25:25,889 To the keen observer, 424 00:25:25,900 --> 00:25:28,067 This lush paradise 425 00:25:28,143 --> 00:25:31,728 Can provide everything needed for survival. 426 00:25:31,739 --> 00:25:34,314 >> a really big compliment that you can get in our culture 427 00:25:34,325 --> 00:25:36,400 Is that you have been very observant. 428 00:25:36,410 --> 00:25:40,654 So there was a lot of time that people just spent in nature 429 00:25:40,665 --> 00:25:43,666 Observing various things. 430 00:25:43,742 --> 00:25:47,828 What the birds are saying, what the tide is doing, 431 00:25:47,838 --> 00:25:49,913 Do you hear a rumble along the ocean 432 00:25:49,924 --> 00:25:52,091 That'll help you know what's going on out there 433 00:25:52,167 --> 00:25:54,835 In terms of swell. 434 00:25:54,845 --> 00:25:56,595 What the clouds are doing, 435 00:25:56,764 --> 00:25:58,171 Which mountain tops they're sitting on top off. 436 00:25:58,182 --> 00:25:59,598 All these things, 437 00:25:59,675 --> 00:26:03,602 And you can learn so much just from that observance. 438 00:26:03,813 --> 00:26:07,940 >> for generations, first nations have lived off the land, 439 00:26:08,017 --> 00:26:12,111 Looking to nature to supply shelter and food. 440 00:26:12,187 --> 00:26:15,689 >> in the past, we managed these root vegetable gardens 441 00:26:15,700 --> 00:26:17,616 That were our main starches 442 00:26:17,785 --> 00:26:20,944 And those were very carefully gardened 443 00:26:20,955 --> 00:26:24,873 And managed by specific families within the tribe. 444 00:26:24,950 --> 00:26:28,285 Some first nations communities still rely on the shores 445 00:26:28,296 --> 00:26:30,379 Of the island for food. 446 00:26:30,456 --> 00:26:33,632 Living off the land demands an expert level 447 00:26:33,801 --> 00:26:35,050 Of observance. 448 00:26:35,127 --> 00:26:37,711 Foragers need to be aware of the balance 449 00:26:37,722 --> 00:26:40,389 Of supply and demand. 450 00:26:40,466 --> 00:26:43,133 Through the ages, the lives of first nations 451 00:26:43,144 --> 00:26:46,228 Were intertwined with the natural world. 452 00:26:46,305 --> 00:26:48,647 Aboriginal people considered the growth 453 00:26:48,816 --> 00:26:51,400 And reproduction cycles of plants and animals 454 00:26:51,477 --> 00:26:53,235 Before harvesting 455 00:26:53,312 --> 00:26:57,147 To sustain the food supply for generations to come. 456 00:26:57,158 --> 00:27:01,818 >> it's important to learn about whatever that resource is, 457 00:27:01,829 --> 00:27:05,497 Not just as a human use thing, but its own lifecycle 458 00:27:05,574 --> 00:27:07,666 And just how, 459 00:27:07,743 --> 00:27:10,994 Under what circumstances does it thrive, or not? 460 00:27:11,005 --> 00:27:14,506 And if you do have access to indigenous knowledge 461 00:27:14,583 --> 00:27:17,918 And people that are willing to share, to respectfully ask, 462 00:27:17,928 --> 00:27:20,846 That's a good start. 463 00:27:20,923 --> 00:27:22,339 >> from up high, 464 00:27:22,350 --> 00:27:25,100 The lush rainforests of vancouver island 465 00:27:25,177 --> 00:27:27,511 Burst with life. 466 00:27:27,521 --> 00:27:32,265 Dense greenery is a vivid sign of a healthy forest. 467 00:27:32,276 --> 00:27:35,352 These aerial views also provide clues 468 00:27:35,363 --> 00:27:38,939 About the health of a different species, 469 00:27:38,949 --> 00:27:40,866 Salmon. 470 00:27:40,943 --> 00:27:42,951 The carcasses of salmon 471 00:27:43,028 --> 00:27:46,863 Dragged from spawning streams hundreds of feet inland 472 00:27:46,874 --> 00:27:51,126 Provide a rich source of nitrogen to nearby forests. 473 00:27:51,203 --> 00:27:54,788 Studies show the trees here obtain up to 50% 474 00:27:54,799 --> 00:27:58,125 Of their nitrogen from the decaying fish. 475 00:27:58,135 --> 00:28:01,053 Forests made healthy by dead salmon 476 00:28:01,130 --> 00:28:03,722 Attract more birds and insects, 477 00:28:03,933 --> 00:28:05,891 Increasing the overall well-being 478 00:28:05,968 --> 00:28:07,726 Of the ecosystem. 479 00:28:07,803 --> 00:28:10,979 As a result, lush forests like this 480 00:28:11,056 --> 00:28:14,141 Usually indicate a healthy salmon run. 481 00:28:14,151 --> 00:28:17,561 (water splashing) 482 00:28:17,571 --> 00:28:21,573 There are four kinds of salmon on vancouver island. 483 00:28:21,650 --> 00:28:24,159 Chinook salmon is the largest. 484 00:28:24,236 --> 00:28:26,829 It can live for up to 9 years 485 00:28:26,905 --> 00:28:30,749 And reach weights of more than 130 pounds, 486 00:28:30,876 --> 00:28:34,995 Making it the largest salmon species on earth. 487 00:28:35,005 --> 00:28:38,081 These muscular fish spawn in the majority 488 00:28:38,092 --> 00:28:41,585 Of vancouver island's streams and rivers. 489 00:28:41,595 --> 00:28:45,597 Every fall, salmon return to the place they were born 490 00:28:45,674 --> 00:28:50,010 To lay their eggs and restart the cycle of life. 491 00:28:50,020 --> 00:28:51,520 It's an epic journey 492 00:28:51,597 --> 00:28:54,014 That can cover thousands of miles 493 00:28:54,024 --> 00:28:57,776 From the wide-open pacific ocean to natal streams 494 00:28:57,945 --> 00:29:00,779 That can reach far inland. 495 00:29:00,906 --> 00:29:03,282 Guided by the earth's magnetic fields 496 00:29:03,358 --> 00:29:05,358 And their own sense of smell, 497 00:29:05,369 --> 00:29:07,619 Salmon find the river of their birth, 498 00:29:07,696 --> 00:29:09,955 Then brave waterfalls and rapids 499 00:29:10,032 --> 00:29:14,201 To make it to their spawning grounds far upstream. 500 00:29:14,211 --> 00:29:16,962 Once they arrive at their destination, 501 00:29:17,039 --> 00:29:20,799 Females can lay between 2,000 to 5,000 eggs 502 00:29:21,010 --> 00:29:25,471 Before they become senescent, meaning they've spawned out. 503 00:29:25,547 --> 00:29:28,298 The high number of eggs is vital to the survival 504 00:29:28,309 --> 00:29:29,966 Of the species. 505 00:29:29,977 --> 00:29:33,470 The ova are vulnerable to predators, pollution, 506 00:29:33,481 --> 00:29:35,814 Flooding, and disease 507 00:29:35,983 --> 00:29:39,059 Less than 10% will make it to adulthood 508 00:29:39,069 --> 00:29:42,562 And just 2% will survive the incredible journey 509 00:29:42,573 --> 00:29:45,491 Back to their birthplace to spawn 510 00:29:45,567 --> 00:29:49,495 And continue the cycle of life. 511 00:29:49,571 --> 00:29:52,331 South of tofino is the crown jewel 512 00:29:52,407 --> 00:29:56,001 Of vancouver island's west coast. 513 00:29:56,078 --> 00:29:59,254 Pacific rim national park, 514 00:29:59,331 --> 00:30:03,083 Home to rainforests filled with ancient cedars 515 00:30:03,093 --> 00:30:05,669 And diverse wildlife. 516 00:30:05,679 --> 00:30:07,671 It's also home to one of the island's 517 00:30:07,681 --> 00:30:11,600 Unexpected and rarest ecosystems, 518 00:30:11,677 --> 00:30:14,937 Sand dunes. 519 00:30:15,013 --> 00:30:17,606 >> in western canada, sand dunes and sandy beaches 520 00:30:17,683 --> 00:30:20,526 Comprise less than 10% of our shoreline. 521 00:30:20,602 --> 00:30:22,861 That makes them rare, but what makes them special 522 00:30:22,938 --> 00:30:25,939 Is that these are selected spots for a whole host 523 00:30:25,950 --> 00:30:27,691 Of different species that only exist 524 00:30:27,701 --> 00:30:30,360 In sandy substrate. 525 00:30:30,371 --> 00:30:34,289 >> dunes are created in equal parts by wind and water. 526 00:30:35,626 --> 00:30:40,295 Over time, wind pushes waves and sand ashore, 527 00:30:40,372 --> 00:30:44,883 Piling grains of sand into wind deposits. 528 00:30:45,094 --> 00:30:48,545 These dunes are the largest in british columbia 529 00:30:48,556 --> 00:30:50,964 And are an important transitional zone 530 00:30:50,975 --> 00:30:53,967 Between beach and forest. 531 00:30:53,978 --> 00:30:57,145 >> these are very rare, very selected habitats 532 00:30:57,222 --> 00:30:59,055 For a whole host of different species 533 00:30:59,066 --> 00:31:01,733 And communities that only exist in select spots 534 00:31:01,810 --> 00:31:04,644 Like here in tofino, ucluelet. 535 00:31:04,655 --> 00:31:07,230 >> migratory birds, bears, 536 00:31:07,241 --> 00:31:09,575 And a variety of plants and insects 537 00:31:09,651 --> 00:31:12,485 Call the dunes home. 538 00:31:12,496 --> 00:31:16,665 But an intruder has put the dunes at risk. 539 00:31:16,742 --> 00:31:19,918 >> dune systems of this size are really rare. 540 00:31:20,087 --> 00:31:22,087 What we see in most coastal dune systems 541 00:31:22,164 --> 00:31:23,505 In the northern hemisphere is that 542 00:31:23,582 --> 00:31:26,333 They are slowly shrinking or stabilizing 543 00:31:26,343 --> 00:31:28,927 By vegetation moving in on their margins. 544 00:31:29,004 --> 00:31:32,598 We see that on the fore-dune here, 545 00:31:32,674 --> 00:31:35,934 In response to an introduced or invasive species, 546 00:31:36,061 --> 00:31:40,272 That's known as an american or european beach-grass. 547 00:31:40,349 --> 00:31:42,182 >> beach-grass was originally brought 548 00:31:42,192 --> 00:31:44,026 To vancouver island 549 00:31:44,102 --> 00:31:48,021 To stabilize coastal areas at risk of erosion. 550 00:31:48,032 --> 00:31:51,199 But over time, this invasive species 551 00:31:51,276 --> 00:31:54,778 Began to block the natural transfer of sand 552 00:31:54,788 --> 00:31:57,289 Between dunes. 553 00:31:57,366 --> 00:32:02,118 Without a natural flow of sand, dunes can shrink over time 554 00:32:02,129 --> 00:32:05,789 Endangering the plants, insects and animals 555 00:32:05,799 --> 00:32:10,043 That make their home in the sand. 556 00:32:10,054 --> 00:32:13,463 To help fight invasive european beach-grass, 557 00:32:13,474 --> 00:32:17,267 The park introduced a restoration program. 558 00:32:18,812 --> 00:32:22,731 Local community members remove the beach grass by hand, 559 00:32:22,808 --> 00:32:26,476 Replacing it with the endangered plants. 560 00:32:26,487 --> 00:32:29,571 >> these kids here are pulling invasive dune grass 561 00:32:29,648 --> 00:32:31,731 For the dune restoration project. 562 00:32:31,742 --> 00:32:34,076 It's a very important ecosystem here 563 00:32:34,152 --> 00:32:37,579 And these kids are helping to restore it. 564 00:32:37,656 --> 00:32:41,324 The goal is to restore the way wind naturally blows 565 00:32:41,335 --> 00:32:44,494 The sediment and shifts the dunes. 566 00:32:44,505 --> 00:32:47,747 By freeing up sand to move with the wind, 567 00:32:47,758 --> 00:32:51,343 Researchers hope to maintain the natural microhabitats 568 00:32:51,420 --> 00:32:53,336 Of the dunes. 569 00:32:53,347 --> 00:32:55,681 >> all of these plants that you see around here, 570 00:32:55,757 --> 00:32:58,016 They're disturbance-loving plants. 571 00:32:58,185 --> 00:33:00,343 They need that disturbance, that abrasion by sand, 572 00:33:00,354 --> 00:33:03,680 That burial, that erosion to grow and live. 573 00:33:03,691 --> 00:33:06,182 An invasive species like the beach-grass 574 00:33:06,193 --> 00:33:09,352 Will move in, choke out, and stabilize 575 00:33:09,363 --> 00:33:12,030 Or cover the surface. 576 00:33:12,157 --> 00:33:15,033 >> the species that we're really focused on 577 00:33:15,160 --> 00:33:18,528 And for this dune restoration project 578 00:33:18,539 --> 00:33:21,790 Are three species that are considered endangered 579 00:33:21,867 --> 00:33:23,116 In canada 580 00:33:23,127 --> 00:33:26,044 And one of those is pink sand verbena. 581 00:33:26,171 --> 00:33:28,538 >> by replacing the invasive beach-grass 582 00:33:28,549 --> 00:33:30,799 With pink sand verbena, 583 00:33:30,876 --> 00:33:35,053 Researchers will restore the natural rhythm of the dunes. 584 00:33:35,222 --> 00:33:37,222 >> we've removed those grasses, 585 00:33:37,299 --> 00:33:39,057 We've returned these environments 586 00:33:39,134 --> 00:33:42,227 To a more natural regime, 587 00:33:42,304 --> 00:33:45,897 And we have seen the increase 588 00:33:45,974 --> 00:33:48,150 In a lot of those rare species 589 00:33:48,226 --> 00:33:52,228 That we were trying to enhance. 590 00:33:52,239 --> 00:33:54,740 We're making great strides in giving them a home. 591 00:33:58,320 --> 00:34:00,078 >> on vancouver island, 592 00:34:00,205 --> 00:34:02,581 Another ecosystem straddles the line 593 00:34:02,657 --> 00:34:06,084 Between earth and water. 594 00:34:06,295 --> 00:34:10,088 But this place is not by the ocean. 595 00:34:10,299 --> 00:34:13,216 It's thousands of feet above sea level. 596 00:34:15,596 --> 00:34:18,889 A hidden paradise at the top of a mountain. 597 00:34:21,602 --> 00:34:24,603 These towering peaks split vancouver island 598 00:34:24,679 --> 00:34:27,272 Into east and west. 599 00:34:27,349 --> 00:34:29,599 Their steep slopes retain moisture 600 00:34:29,610 --> 00:34:31,526 Along the pacific coast 601 00:34:31,603 --> 00:34:35,197 And help create lush rainforests. 602 00:34:35,273 --> 00:34:38,700 But historically, these thirsty forests 603 00:34:38,777 --> 00:34:43,121 Were quenched by another source, glaciers. 604 00:34:45,700 --> 00:34:47,459 In the 1970s, 605 00:34:47,536 --> 00:34:51,922 Vancouver island was home to more than 170 glaciers. 606 00:34:53,467 --> 00:34:56,718 Ice capped the peaks of many mountains on the island. 607 00:34:58,713 --> 00:35:00,296 In the heat of the summer, 608 00:35:00,307 --> 00:35:03,383 These slow-moving ribbons of ice melt 609 00:35:03,393 --> 00:35:06,645 And saturate the dry forests below. 610 00:35:09,483 --> 00:35:14,111 In the spring, melted glaciers become rushing waterfalls. 611 00:35:15,564 --> 00:35:17,155 In the nahmint valley, 612 00:35:17,366 --> 00:35:19,407 In the centre of vancouver island, 613 00:35:19,484 --> 00:35:21,952 Spring waterfalls flow freely. 614 00:35:23,822 --> 00:35:27,290 Locals refer to this area as "waterfall heaven". 615 00:35:29,336 --> 00:35:33,672 Here, glacial runoff creates towering waterfalls. 616 00:35:35,259 --> 00:35:37,750 One of the tallest, virgin falls, 617 00:35:37,761 --> 00:35:41,179 Cascades more than 170 feet. 618 00:35:44,017 --> 00:35:46,768 Rising global temperatures have reduced 619 00:35:46,845 --> 00:35:49,688 The number of glaciers on vancouver island 620 00:35:49,764 --> 00:35:52,348 To just five. 621 00:35:52,359 --> 00:35:55,193 Fewer glaciers means less water to feed 622 00:35:55,320 --> 00:35:57,195 The hundreds of waterfalls 623 00:35:57,406 --> 00:36:00,532 That flow down from the mountains. 624 00:36:00,609 --> 00:36:02,358 Some scientists predict 625 00:36:02,369 --> 00:36:05,036 That all of vancouver island's glaciers 626 00:36:05,113 --> 00:36:07,864 Could be gone within 25 years. 627 00:36:07,875 --> 00:36:14,963 (♪♪♪) 628 00:36:15,040 --> 00:36:19,176 In some cases, melted glaciers feed mountain lakes. 629 00:36:23,131 --> 00:36:26,558 Water from these lakes feeds the surrounding forest 630 00:36:26,635 --> 00:36:29,227 To create a vibrant ecosystem 631 00:36:29,396 --> 00:36:31,980 Hundreds of feet above sea level. 632 00:36:35,986 --> 00:36:38,645 But as the climate continues to warm, 633 00:36:38,655 --> 00:36:42,815 These high alpine regions are shrinking. 634 00:36:42,826 --> 00:36:46,786 Within the next century, they may disappear completely. 635 00:36:50,408 --> 00:36:53,668 These secluded mountain tops of vancouver island 636 00:36:53,745 --> 00:36:56,838 Provide a haven for fragile ecosystems. 637 00:36:59,426 --> 00:37:03,845 Tucked away among the mountains is henderson lake. 638 00:37:08,352 --> 00:37:10,426 This secluded body of water 639 00:37:10,437 --> 00:37:14,347 Sits on uchucklesaht first nations land, 640 00:37:14,358 --> 00:37:16,683 A region that holds special meaning 641 00:37:16,693 --> 00:37:18,693 To pacific first nations. 642 00:37:21,531 --> 00:37:23,281 For thousands of years, 643 00:37:23,492 --> 00:37:25,700 Henderson lake teemed with salmon. 644 00:37:27,621 --> 00:37:30,956 Salmon runs here were among the most spectacular 645 00:37:31,032 --> 00:37:32,874 In the world. 646 00:37:32,951 --> 00:37:36,786 There was enough fish to feed entire communities. 647 00:37:36,797 --> 00:37:40,048 But disease brought by european settlers 648 00:37:40,125 --> 00:37:43,301 Took its toll on tradition. 649 00:37:43,512 --> 00:37:45,136 >> we've been here for thousands of years 650 00:37:45,213 --> 00:37:46,462 And at one time 651 00:37:46,473 --> 00:37:50,934 We were approximately 8,000 warriors strong 652 00:37:52,387 --> 00:37:54,312 A few hundred years ago. 653 00:37:54,389 --> 00:37:58,817 And through the epidemics 654 00:37:58,893 --> 00:38:00,393 And smallpox 655 00:38:00,404 --> 00:38:04,406 And those kind of events, 656 00:38:04,482 --> 00:38:07,483 We were basically diminished 657 00:38:07,494 --> 00:38:10,486 To very small numbers, 658 00:38:10,497 --> 00:38:12,488 Less than a hundred. 659 00:38:12,499 --> 00:38:13,990 And now we are growing, 660 00:38:14,001 --> 00:38:17,294 We are closed to 300 members at this point. 661 00:38:21,842 --> 00:38:25,927 >> encircling henderson lake are the five sacred mountains 662 00:38:26,004 --> 00:38:28,421 That have guarded the spiritual secrets 663 00:38:28,432 --> 00:38:31,641 Of pacific first nations for millennia. 664 00:38:35,764 --> 00:38:38,356 This is the thunderbird's nest, 665 00:38:38,433 --> 00:38:41,026 Home of the mythical thunderbird. 666 00:38:41,102 --> 00:38:45,521 A supernatural creature able to bring rain and lightning 667 00:38:45,532 --> 00:38:49,192 To vancouver island's coastal rainforest. 668 00:38:49,202 --> 00:38:53,029 >> there's just a handful, you can count on one hand, 669 00:38:53,040 --> 00:38:57,375 Of areas that you would call the thunderbird's nest. 670 00:38:57,452 --> 00:39:00,703 And in our language it's called the "t'iitsk'in pawaats". 671 00:39:00,714 --> 00:39:04,123 Every nation has stories about having thunderbirds, 672 00:39:04,134 --> 00:39:06,626 But not thunderbird nest. 673 00:39:06,636 --> 00:39:09,137 >> according to ancient mythology, 674 00:39:09,214 --> 00:39:13,132 The land was home to a family of thunderbirds. 675 00:39:13,143 --> 00:39:15,727 Five birds inhabited the tops of each 676 00:39:15,804 --> 00:39:19,481 Of the five sacred mountains within the t'iitsk'in paawats. 677 00:39:20,975 --> 00:39:25,028 Over time, the mythical birds began to leave the nest. 678 00:39:26,490 --> 00:39:29,157 Some were traded away to neighboring tribes 679 00:39:29,234 --> 00:39:32,235 During times of wedding and war, 680 00:39:32,245 --> 00:39:36,122 Creating sacred bonds that tied communities together. 681 00:39:39,577 --> 00:39:42,587 The thunderbird's nest holds precious significance 682 00:39:42,664 --> 00:39:44,997 To pacific first nations 683 00:39:45,008 --> 00:39:48,510 And has never before been filmed. 684 00:39:48,586 --> 00:39:51,921 The land remained a well-guarded secret 685 00:39:51,932 --> 00:39:55,433 Until loggers attempted to clear-cut the area 686 00:39:55,560 --> 00:39:57,593 And members of the uchucklesaht tribe 687 00:39:57,604 --> 00:40:00,438 Took action to save it. 688 00:40:00,649 --> 00:40:03,108 >> not very many outside people knew about the story 689 00:40:03,184 --> 00:40:07,103 Of the thunderbird's nest and our secret ceremonies 690 00:40:07,114 --> 00:40:10,532 And the activities we carry out in the nest. 691 00:40:10,608 --> 00:40:13,451 It came to light in the '90s. 692 00:40:13,620 --> 00:40:16,704 We were shocked and astonished to learn that 693 00:40:16,781 --> 00:40:18,790 The forestry company was logging out 694 00:40:18,867 --> 00:40:22,293 In the upper part of the province. 695 00:40:22,370 --> 00:40:25,797 So we immediately went and met with the forest companies 696 00:40:25,874 --> 00:40:28,291 And asked them to cease. 697 00:40:28,301 --> 00:40:30,885 And after much meeting, and discussions 698 00:40:30,962 --> 00:40:34,130 And educating them of our interest in the area, 699 00:40:34,141 --> 00:40:36,558 Of the spiritualness and the sacredness of it, 700 00:40:36,634 --> 00:40:39,060 They agreed to stop harvesting. 701 00:40:43,224 --> 00:40:46,058 >> logging this area would have been disastrous 702 00:40:46,069 --> 00:40:48,227 To the spiritual ancestry 703 00:40:48,238 --> 00:40:52,490 Of more than 14 pacific first nation tribes. 704 00:40:52,659 --> 00:40:56,494 >> my mother, at that time, she was about 75 years old. 705 00:40:56,621 --> 00:40:58,654 And she said if they're not willing 706 00:40:58,665 --> 00:41:00,156 To protect the area 707 00:41:00,167 --> 00:41:02,241 Or they're not prepared to stop logging-- 708 00:41:02,252 --> 00:41:03,576 When they were logging, 709 00:41:03,587 --> 00:41:07,088 She was gonna make her way up there 710 00:41:07,165 --> 00:41:10,258 And park herself in the middle of the road 711 00:41:10,335 --> 00:41:12,510 So nobody can haul any wood out of there. 712 00:41:12,721 --> 00:41:15,513 So that's how determined our people were 713 00:41:15,640 --> 00:41:18,007 To ensure that logging would not happen 714 00:41:18,018 --> 00:41:21,186 In that spiritual area. 715 00:41:21,262 --> 00:41:23,021 >> first nations tribal councils 716 00:41:23,097 --> 00:41:26,524 Now govern the area 717 00:41:26,651 --> 00:41:30,528 Protecting more than 5,000 acres from the logging industry 718 00:41:30,655 --> 00:41:32,280 For future generations. 719 00:41:35,744 --> 00:41:38,536 Because of its special ties to the thunderbird, 720 00:41:38,613 --> 00:41:41,539 This land has been used by the uchucklesaht people 721 00:41:41,616 --> 00:41:43,616 For sacred rituals 722 00:41:43,627 --> 00:41:47,795 Since long before the appearance of europeans. 723 00:41:47,872 --> 00:41:52,133 Each piece of the nest holds a specific sacred purpose. 724 00:41:53,762 --> 00:41:56,387 The lowest mountain has a number of sacred ponds 725 00:41:56,464 --> 00:41:58,130 And waterfalls 726 00:41:58,141 --> 00:42:01,884 That are traditionally used to cleanse a member of the tribe 727 00:42:01,895 --> 00:42:04,229 Before a difficult journey. 728 00:42:04,305 --> 00:42:06,731 >> it's a place where our people 729 00:42:06,808 --> 00:42:10,142 Went for ceremonies and celebrations 730 00:42:10,153 --> 00:42:13,404 And the ceremonies ranging 731 00:42:13,481 --> 00:42:16,732 From 1 day or 1/2 a day 732 00:42:16,743 --> 00:42:19,577 To maybe a week to a month or 8 months 733 00:42:19,746 --> 00:42:21,904 Depending on what you were there 734 00:42:21,915 --> 00:42:23,540 To prepare yourself for. 735 00:42:26,327 --> 00:42:29,087 >> one of the most intense spiritual practices 736 00:42:29,163 --> 00:42:32,840 In the thunderbird's nest occurred prior to a whale hunt. 737 00:42:35,169 --> 00:42:38,421 Tribe members would camp alone among the mountains 738 00:42:38,431 --> 00:42:40,256 For up to 8 months, 739 00:42:40,267 --> 00:42:44,602 Cleansing the body and mind in preparation for a hunt, 740 00:42:44,771 --> 00:42:48,097 That, if successful, could feed an entire family 741 00:42:48,108 --> 00:42:50,233 Throughout the winter. 742 00:42:51,861 --> 00:42:55,196 >> people often have big reactions to the idea of whale hunting 743 00:42:55,273 --> 00:43:00,034 And like very kind of gut level. 744 00:43:00,111 --> 00:43:02,370 But I think there is a lack of understanding. 745 00:43:02,447 --> 00:43:06,457 There's intensive spiritual and physical preparation 746 00:43:06,534 --> 00:43:09,127 That takes place before going on a whale hunt. 747 00:43:09,203 --> 00:43:13,464 And there's so much respect for these big animals 748 00:43:13,541 --> 00:43:17,969 And one of the incredible things is that one of these animals 749 00:43:18,046 --> 00:43:21,639 Can feed so many people and in former times, 750 00:43:21,766 --> 00:43:26,385 The oil, the blubber of them was, 751 00:43:26,396 --> 00:43:28,146 You know, that was so precious. 752 00:43:28,222 --> 00:43:31,899 Because there wasn't other forms of oil around here. 753 00:43:31,976 --> 00:43:34,861 >> smaller events took place within the nest as well. 754 00:43:37,315 --> 00:43:40,033 Weddings commonly occurred on its shores. 755 00:43:42,078 --> 00:43:46,906 Coming-of-age ceremonies played out in its woods. 756 00:43:46,916 --> 00:43:49,492 Community members walked these grounds 757 00:43:49,502 --> 00:43:52,411 While mourning the loss of a loved one 758 00:43:52,422 --> 00:43:56,341 Or while preparing to give birth to a new member of the tribe. 759 00:43:57,761 --> 00:44:01,253 These lands were a place to prepare the body and mind 760 00:44:01,264 --> 00:44:03,473 For many of life's journeys. 761 00:44:05,176 --> 00:44:07,852 Each family had their own bathing site 762 00:44:07,929 --> 00:44:11,439 Or place of worship within the thunderbird's nest. 763 00:44:11,516 --> 00:44:15,351 A place so secret that an intruder could be killed 764 00:44:15,362 --> 00:44:19,188 For entering the space without invitation. 765 00:44:19,199 --> 00:44:21,941 >> some of our people still practice these ceremonies 766 00:44:21,951 --> 00:44:24,026 And activities to this day. 767 00:44:24,037 --> 00:44:26,704 I still come up at least once a year 768 00:44:26,781 --> 00:44:30,291 To do "osimich" which is go into the water and bathe. 769 00:44:30,368 --> 00:44:33,119 And it's really good for relieving your mind of stress 770 00:44:33,129 --> 00:44:34,954 And planning for the rest of your week 771 00:44:34,964 --> 00:44:37,289 Or your month or your year. 772 00:44:37,300 --> 00:44:39,208 I usually come in the winter months 773 00:44:39,219 --> 00:44:40,551 And go into the lake. 774 00:44:40,628 --> 00:44:42,553 And I sit in the lake for up to an hour 775 00:44:42,630 --> 00:44:44,463 And it's really relaxing, 776 00:44:44,474 --> 00:44:45,890 You don't feel the cold of the lake, 777 00:44:45,967 --> 00:44:48,226 The air is colder than the water is 778 00:44:48,302 --> 00:44:49,519 In the winter months. 779 00:44:52,890 --> 00:44:54,982 >> these spiritual practices, 780 00:44:55,059 --> 00:44:57,902 So linked with the natural surroundings, 781 00:44:57,979 --> 00:45:02,231 Are representative of the island as a whole. 782 00:45:02,242 --> 00:45:04,900 This is a place where humans and nature 783 00:45:04,911 --> 00:45:09,155 Have been inextricably linked for millennia. 784 00:45:09,165 --> 00:45:11,749 >> we call it "god's country", this whole area. 785 00:45:11,826 --> 00:45:13,993 It's just a place you come to and you never forget 786 00:45:14,003 --> 00:45:16,421 And you don't wanna leave. 787 00:45:16,497 --> 00:45:18,756 It's such a powerful place to be. 788 00:45:18,967 --> 00:45:21,333 When you're in there, you feel the, 789 00:45:21,344 --> 00:45:23,594 You know, the presence of nature, 790 00:45:23,671 --> 00:45:25,471 The presence of the creator. 791 00:45:34,098 --> 00:45:38,934 >> from the dense canopies of ancient rainforests 792 00:45:38,945 --> 00:45:42,405 To the fungal roots that connect sleeping giants, 793 00:45:44,951 --> 00:45:49,620 From the bears and salmon that call this place home 794 00:45:49,697 --> 00:45:54,617 To the many different people who live off the land, 795 00:45:54,627 --> 00:45:59,038 This magnificent landscape is a rugged reminder 796 00:45:59,048 --> 00:46:01,841 Of a world that thrived long ago. 797 00:46:03,470 --> 00:46:06,804 From its volcanic beginnings 798 00:46:06,881 --> 00:46:09,307 To its powerful ocean shores. 799 00:46:11,060 --> 00:46:14,887 From lush rainforests 800 00:46:14,898 --> 00:46:19,141 To magnificent islands in the sky. 801 00:46:19,152 --> 00:46:22,978 It is an age-old landscape 802 00:46:22,989 --> 00:46:26,908 That continues to preserve ancient ways of life. 803 00:46:28,402 --> 00:46:38,410 (♪♪♪) 804 00:46:38,421 --> 00:46:48,262 (♪♪♪) 68441

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