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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:02,211 --> 00:00:05,120 Ireland. 2 00:00:05,131 --> 00:00:08,465 The most westerly country in europe. 3 00:00:08,542 --> 00:00:11,635 An outpost in the north atlantic, 4 00:00:11,712 --> 00:00:16,724 It is the final landfall for thousands of miles, 5 00:00:16,800 --> 00:00:21,812 And towers above the sea. 6 00:00:21,889 --> 00:00:24,723 >> you have the ocean, the sky, the light, 7 00:00:24,734 --> 00:00:26,141 The wind even in your hair. 8 00:00:26,152 --> 00:00:31,238 You couldn't be closer to nature than here. 9 00:00:31,315 --> 00:00:35,492 >> here, land and sea clash endlessly. 10 00:00:35,569 --> 00:00:39,329 The rock of ireland, bitten and scoured by glaciers, 11 00:00:39,406 --> 00:00:44,918 Is constantly being shaped and reshaped by water: 12 00:00:44,995 --> 00:00:49,840 Pounding waves below, and driving rain from above. 13 00:00:49,917 --> 00:00:51,666 >> it's a very dynamic landscape. 14 00:00:51,677 --> 00:00:53,343 It's very rugged. 15 00:00:53,420 --> 00:00:56,096 It evolves day and daily. 16 00:00:56,173 --> 00:01:02,761 >> from the rugged antrim coast, to the wild atlantic way, 17 00:01:02,772 --> 00:01:06,648 This is ireland. 18 00:01:09,445 --> 00:01:19,453 (♪♪♪) 19 00:01:19,530 --> 00:01:29,546 (♪♪♪) 20 00:01:29,548 --> 00:01:42,476 (♪♪♪) 21 00:01:59,286 --> 00:02:04,915 The cliffs of moher, a steep and sweeping precipice 22 00:02:04,992 --> 00:02:10,504 On ireland's jagged west coast. 23 00:02:10,581 --> 00:02:16,176 The cliffs tower more than 700 feet above the stormy atlantic 24 00:02:16,253 --> 00:02:19,421 And present real danger to those that fail 25 00:02:19,431 --> 00:02:24,593 To heed its warning signs. 26 00:02:24,603 --> 00:02:29,022 In the year 2000, two experienced climbers died 27 00:02:29,099 --> 00:02:34,528 And another was gravely injured when rocks above them gave way. 28 00:02:36,365 --> 00:02:39,441 And in 2015, a visiting photographer 29 00:02:39,451 --> 00:02:43,370 Captured a spectacular rock fall in progress. 30 00:02:48,118 --> 00:02:51,286 It won't be the last time that these stunning cliffs 31 00:02:51,297 --> 00:02:57,459 Crumble into the ocean, piece by piece. 32 00:02:57,469 --> 00:03:00,795 A powerful reminder that the geological violence 33 00:03:00,806 --> 00:03:05,634 That built ireland is still very much alive here. 34 00:03:08,472 --> 00:03:11,231 But despite their many rock falls, 35 00:03:11,308 --> 00:03:17,571 The cliffs of moher aren't disappearing any time soon. 36 00:03:17,648 --> 00:03:20,565 They have stood here, in one form or another, 37 00:03:20,576 --> 00:03:25,829 For more than 300 million years, and greet visitors today 38 00:03:25,906 --> 00:03:31,826 Coming east across the atlantic. 39 00:03:31,837 --> 00:03:34,838 The cliffs of moher extend for five miles 40 00:03:34,915 --> 00:03:38,592 Along ireland's wild atlantic way: 41 00:03:38,669 --> 00:03:41,920 A spectacular coastal route that winds 42 00:03:41,931 --> 00:03:46,266 For nearly 1,600 miles from derry in the north 43 00:03:46,343 --> 00:03:52,931 To cork in the south. 44 00:03:52,942 --> 00:03:56,276 The cliffs of moher draw close to one million visitors 45 00:03:56,445 --> 00:03:59,696 Each year. 46 00:03:59,773 --> 00:04:05,944 This is one of the country's most breathtaking panoramas. 47 00:04:05,955 --> 00:04:10,031 The cliffs provide shelter for more than 30,000 birds 48 00:04:10,042 --> 00:04:14,953 From 29 different species. 49 00:04:14,964 --> 00:04:17,956 But the land on which they roost began to accumulate 50 00:04:17,967 --> 00:04:22,719 Long before birds had evolved. 51 00:04:22,796 --> 00:04:26,047 Long before even their ancestors, the dinosaurs, 52 00:04:26,058 --> 00:04:30,310 Had appeared on the planet. 53 00:04:30,479 --> 00:04:34,314 >> what you're looking at there is a cross section through time. 54 00:04:34,441 --> 00:04:36,808 You can see how the sediments have changed from the base 55 00:04:36,819 --> 00:04:37,985 Right through the top. 56 00:04:38,061 --> 00:04:41,321 You can see each successive layer. 57 00:04:41,532 --> 00:04:43,148 >> the cliffs of moher are the remains 58 00:04:43,158 --> 00:04:47,327 Of an ancient river delta. 59 00:04:47,404 --> 00:04:51,906 Land created as flooded rivers dumped silt, sand, and mud 60 00:04:51,917 --> 00:04:55,085 Into a shallow tropical sea. 61 00:04:59,008 --> 00:05:02,426 This sediment accumulated layer upon layer 62 00:05:02,502 --> 00:05:05,012 For millions of years. 63 00:05:09,768 --> 00:05:11,268 >> those sediments are getting shallower and shallower 64 00:05:11,345 --> 00:05:13,437 Because more and more sediment is pouring out and building out 65 00:05:13,513 --> 00:05:19,860 And making, essentially making land. 66 00:05:19,936 --> 00:05:21,778 Each of those layers may represent one storm event 67 00:05:21,855 --> 00:05:24,698 Or one massive flood event. 68 00:05:24,775 --> 00:05:27,108 The fine shale layers then represent longer periods of time 69 00:05:27,119 --> 00:05:29,453 Where sediment has collected more slowly over time 70 00:05:29,529 --> 00:05:32,122 Then the next flood event will come along. 71 00:05:32,199 --> 00:05:36,376 >> new sediment deposited on top created crushing pressure 72 00:05:36,545 --> 00:05:39,037 On the sediment layers below, 73 00:05:39,048 --> 00:05:43,967 Compacting them into the solid rock we see today. 74 00:05:44,044 --> 00:05:47,962 Over millions of years, earth's shifting tectonic plates 75 00:05:47,973 --> 00:05:50,640 Carried these sediment deposits north 76 00:05:50,717 --> 00:05:53,852 From their point of origin south of the equator. 77 00:05:59,068 --> 00:06:02,402 But the story doesn't end there. 78 00:06:02,571 --> 00:06:05,989 Repeating layers of sandstone, siltstone and shale 79 00:06:06,066 --> 00:06:10,410 Provide a clear view of an ancient sedimentary basin, 80 00:06:10,537 --> 00:06:15,573 Something usually found underwater. 81 00:06:15,584 --> 00:06:18,835 Now above land, the cliffs of moher 82 00:06:18,912 --> 00:06:23,164 Reveal their history inch by inch. 83 00:06:23,175 --> 00:06:26,093 This geological treasure has only been made visible 84 00:06:26,169 --> 00:06:32,432 By the constant, clawing waves at the base of the cliffs. 85 00:06:32,643 --> 00:06:36,094 >> those waves come in, they will undercut the base of the cliffs, 86 00:06:36,105 --> 00:06:38,263 Especially the shaley bits that will weaken it. 87 00:06:38,273 --> 00:06:41,024 And parts will fall into the sea. 88 00:06:41,101 --> 00:06:43,184 The clear shale, those dark, very dark rocks 89 00:06:43,195 --> 00:06:44,194 They've got fossils in them, 90 00:06:44,271 --> 00:06:45,445 They've got bits of plant material, 91 00:06:45,572 --> 00:06:46,780 They've got goniatites, but not much, 92 00:06:46,857 --> 00:06:48,865 They don't have the same variety of fossils 93 00:06:48,942 --> 00:06:50,117 That we get in the limestone. 94 00:06:50,193 --> 00:06:51,776 So it was a very difficult environment 95 00:06:51,787 --> 00:06:53,120 For things to live in. 96 00:06:53,196 --> 00:06:56,456 You've got rivers flowing on a swampy, marshy area 97 00:06:56,667 --> 00:06:59,209 And we get evidence of that from lots of tree material. 98 00:06:59,286 --> 00:07:01,294 We even find the roots of those trees in some of the sections 99 00:07:01,371 --> 00:07:04,631 So we know there was plants growing on essentially soil 100 00:07:04,708 --> 00:07:07,959 In that area. 101 00:07:07,970 --> 00:07:13,548 >> just offshore, branaunmore, a 220-foot-high sea stack, 102 00:07:13,559 --> 00:07:19,137 Stands like an ancient guardian. 103 00:07:19,148 --> 00:07:20,555 >> the sea stack is a remnant actually 104 00:07:20,566 --> 00:07:23,224 Of where the cliffs used to be. 105 00:07:23,235 --> 00:07:26,653 The cliffs of moher are eroding backwards. 106 00:07:26,730 --> 00:07:29,823 Due to these joints, due to the shaley nature of the cliffs, 107 00:07:29,900 --> 00:07:31,741 And mostly because of these fantastic waves that are 108 00:07:31,818 --> 00:07:37,155 Coming in from the atlantic pounding it every year. 109 00:07:37,166 --> 00:07:40,000 Those promontories can get isolated so either side of them 110 00:07:40,076 --> 00:07:42,586 Will get eroded away more and eventually they get eroded away 111 00:07:42,662 --> 00:07:44,245 At the back. 112 00:07:44,256 --> 00:07:46,915 And that, sometimes they'll form arches initially and then those 113 00:07:46,925 --> 00:07:50,844 Arches will collapse and be left with a sea stack. 114 00:07:50,921 --> 00:07:55,098 >> the rate of recession for the cliffs hasn't been measured. 115 00:07:55,175 --> 00:07:59,269 But on the nearby aran islands the cliffs recede 116 00:07:59,346 --> 00:08:02,772 More than a foot-and-a-half each year due to erosion 117 00:08:02,849 --> 00:08:07,277 Caused by battering waves. 118 00:08:07,354 --> 00:08:09,604 The branaunmore sea stack is a reminder 119 00:08:09,615 --> 00:08:15,118 That nothing set in stone will remain forever. 120 00:08:15,195 --> 00:08:17,704 By the waves it was created. 121 00:08:17,781 --> 00:08:20,949 By the waves it will be consumed. 122 00:08:20,959 --> 00:08:22,459 >> over time that sea stack is going to be eroded 123 00:08:22,536 --> 00:08:25,203 And that sea stack will fall and collapse into the sea as well. 124 00:08:25,214 --> 00:08:26,704 They come and then they go. 125 00:08:26,715 --> 00:08:29,799 There'll be new ones forming long after we're gone. 126 00:08:35,465 --> 00:08:37,307 >> the cliffs of moher. 127 00:08:37,384 --> 00:08:41,135 Not quite eternal, but immortalized in films 128 00:08:41,146 --> 00:08:43,563 Such as the princess bride 129 00:08:43,640 --> 00:08:48,235 And harry potter and the half-blood prince. 130 00:08:48,311 --> 00:08:49,903 And no wonder: 131 00:08:49,980 --> 00:08:54,533 They're a special effect 300 million years in the making. 132 00:09:07,747 --> 00:09:11,675 Eight miles north of the cliffs of moher in the region known as 133 00:09:11,751 --> 00:09:18,006 The burren is the ivy cliff cave, or as it's known today: 134 00:09:18,016 --> 00:09:21,601 Doolin cave. 135 00:09:21,728 --> 00:09:25,355 >> doolin cave formed like every other cave in the burren. 136 00:09:25,432 --> 00:09:27,607 It's on the limestone, so there was groundwater, 137 00:09:27,776 --> 00:09:28,775 There was water flowing, 138 00:09:28,852 --> 00:09:31,278 Slightly acidic water, and over time 139 00:09:31,354 --> 00:09:35,365 That just eroded channels within the rock and the limestone. 140 00:09:35,442 --> 00:09:39,202 >> hidden 80 feet beneath the entrance to doolin cave 141 00:09:39,279 --> 00:09:44,416 Is its prized treasure: The great stalactite. 142 00:09:47,045 --> 00:09:50,038 At 23 feet, it is one of the longest 143 00:09:50,048 --> 00:09:54,792 Free-hanging stalactites in the northern hemisphere. 144 00:09:54,803 --> 00:09:58,880 Limestone stalactites form as slightly acidic rainwater 145 00:09:58,890 --> 00:10:02,392 Seeps through the bedrock, dissolving and eroding 146 00:10:02,469 --> 00:10:05,219 The minerals as it flows. 147 00:10:05,230 --> 00:10:09,390 Where water drips from the roof of a cave, dissolved limestone 148 00:10:09,401 --> 00:10:14,812 In the water precipitates out and hardens as calcite. 149 00:10:14,823 --> 00:10:19,067 Over time, minuscule amounts of calcite build up, 150 00:10:19,077 --> 00:10:21,745 Eventually forming giant solid deposits 151 00:10:21,821 --> 00:10:24,664 That appear to drip from the cave ceiling. 152 00:10:24,791 --> 00:10:28,084 >> in most caves you'll get single, small, straw-like stalactites. 153 00:10:28,161 --> 00:10:29,744 They're quite common. 154 00:10:29,755 --> 00:10:31,329 It started forming almost certainly in the same way 155 00:10:31,340 --> 00:10:34,165 As all the others, but the water continued flowing there 156 00:10:34,176 --> 00:10:38,261 For a longer period of time. 157 00:10:38,338 --> 00:10:41,005 >> the great stalactite is a dramatic example 158 00:10:41,016 --> 00:10:46,853 Of the geological processes that shape ireland. 159 00:10:46,930 --> 00:10:50,690 It was created over hundreds of thousands of years, 160 00:10:50,817 --> 00:10:55,770 Literally one drip at a time. 161 00:10:55,781 --> 00:10:59,282 But doolin cave and its remarkable stalactite 162 00:10:59,359 --> 00:11:04,037 Are just one small feature in the burren landscape. 163 00:11:04,114 --> 00:11:06,364 >> the burren comes from the old irish word bhoireann, 164 00:11:06,375 --> 00:11:10,543 Which means rocky place. 165 00:11:10,620 --> 00:11:14,714 >> this rocky place, comprised of nearly 100 square miles 166 00:11:14,925 --> 00:11:17,467 Of spectacular, rolling hills, 167 00:11:17,544 --> 00:11:23,723 Was formed some 350 million years ago. 168 00:11:23,892 --> 00:11:27,477 It is a limestone pavement: Layer-upon-layer 169 00:11:27,554 --> 00:11:30,730 Of calcium carbonate sediment that was once at the 170 00:11:30,807 --> 00:11:35,226 Bottom of the ocean, deposited by the skeletal remains 171 00:11:35,237 --> 00:11:39,072 Of ancient marine organisms. 172 00:11:39,149 --> 00:11:42,826 The sea life that formed this pavement once lived in the 173 00:11:42,902 --> 00:11:47,247 Same tropical sea, fed by the river that helped give rise 174 00:11:47,323 --> 00:11:51,325 To the cliffs of moher. 175 00:11:51,336 --> 00:11:54,504 The rock of the burren was compressed and hardened 176 00:11:54,581 --> 00:12:00,251 By the weight of successive layers of calcium carbonate. 177 00:12:00,262 --> 00:12:04,005 This sea floor once occupied a place much farther south, 178 00:12:04,015 --> 00:12:08,184 At the same latitude where egypt is today. 179 00:12:08,261 --> 00:12:12,930 As tectonic plates moved, these rocks drifted north, 180 00:12:12,941 --> 00:12:16,276 Landing here when an ancient ocean closed 181 00:12:16,352 --> 00:12:19,020 And two plates of crust collided, 182 00:12:19,030 --> 00:12:24,576 Forcing what was the seafloor to emerge high above the waves. 183 00:12:26,371 --> 00:12:29,030 In the south-eastern part of the burren, 184 00:12:29,040 --> 00:12:33,126 An arresting 560-foot-high limestone hill 185 00:12:33,203 --> 00:12:36,537 Bears the twists and bends of a landscape 186 00:12:36,548 --> 00:12:39,966 That was once under extreme pressure. 187 00:12:40,043 --> 00:12:42,802 It is mullaghmore. 188 00:12:43,013 --> 00:12:46,881 In irish, it means great summit. 189 00:12:46,892 --> 00:12:49,884 >> there's irregular curved folds in the limestone there 190 00:12:49,895 --> 00:12:51,302 And that's a result of compression. 191 00:12:51,313 --> 00:12:53,888 That's the result of a continent sliding along 192 00:12:53,899 --> 00:12:56,307 The surface of the earth, hitting another continent, 193 00:12:56,318 --> 00:13:00,820 The rocks buckle and they folded, nice and gentle. 194 00:13:00,989 --> 00:13:04,315 >> but this was far from the end of the geological story 195 00:13:04,326 --> 00:13:07,827 For this new piece of land. 196 00:13:07,996 --> 00:13:10,163 What is now ireland was subjected 197 00:13:10,240 --> 00:13:14,834 To the unrelenting chill and crush of glaciers. 198 00:13:14,911 --> 00:13:18,162 >> this area has been subject to glaciation. 199 00:13:18,173 --> 00:13:20,840 Like most of ireland it was covered by ice at some point. 200 00:13:20,917 --> 00:13:24,093 And once the ice travelled mostly from the north, northeast, 201 00:13:24,170 --> 00:13:26,513 It scraped off the surface, scraped off any soil 202 00:13:26,589 --> 00:13:31,342 That was there, and it exposed bare limestone. 203 00:13:31,353 --> 00:13:34,262 >> the last glacial period to affect the burren 204 00:13:34,272 --> 00:13:38,274 Ended 14,000 years ago. 205 00:13:38,351 --> 00:13:42,612 But while the landscape may have been scraped bare by ice, 206 00:13:42,689 --> 00:13:46,691 The land itself is far from barren. 207 00:13:46,701 --> 00:13:50,444 >> that then got colonized slowly afterwards by initially grasses 208 00:13:50,455 --> 00:13:54,874 And then more advanced trees and bushes. 209 00:13:54,951 --> 00:13:57,877 And then when humans came along, around about 5,000 years ago, 210 00:13:58,046 --> 00:14:00,547 They started cutting those trees down. 211 00:14:00,623 --> 00:14:04,717 >> the hunter-gatherers that cut down great swaths of forest 212 00:14:04,794 --> 00:14:10,298 For timber also raised cattle that devoured grasses, 213 00:14:10,308 --> 00:14:16,470 Contributing to the current stark landscape. 214 00:14:16,481 --> 00:14:23,903 In 1651 an english army officer described the burren as: 215 00:14:23,980 --> 00:14:27,907 "a country where there is not water enough to drown a man, 216 00:14:28,076 --> 00:14:33,404 Wood enough to hang one, nor earth enough to bury them. 217 00:14:33,415 --> 00:14:36,875 And yet their cattle are very fat." 218 00:14:44,593 --> 00:14:48,511 Wildflowers and grasses take root in cracks and crevices in 219 00:14:48,588 --> 00:14:54,350 The limestone and flourish in the burren's sweet, damp air. 220 00:14:56,021 --> 00:14:59,272 >> it's got grasses, it's got shrubs, it's got a fantastic mix 221 00:14:59,349 --> 00:15:01,682 Of alpine and mediterranean flowers. 222 00:15:01,693 --> 00:15:04,360 People come from all over the world to see that together 223 00:15:04,437 --> 00:15:06,529 In the same place, and it's not the arctic and it's not 224 00:15:06,606 --> 00:15:10,950 The mediterranean: It's in the west coast of ireland. 225 00:15:11,077 --> 00:15:13,286 >> but underneath the surprising plant life 226 00:15:13,363 --> 00:15:18,541 There's the limestone, scrubbed and scratched by ice, 227 00:15:18,618 --> 00:15:23,704 Stripped and depleted by man, and now eroded by water. 228 00:15:23,715 --> 00:15:26,049 >> once this limestone has been exposed to the surface 229 00:15:26,125 --> 00:15:28,217 What happens is rain will fall on it, 230 00:15:28,294 --> 00:15:30,544 And we get a significant amount of rain here in the burren, 231 00:15:30,555 --> 00:15:32,305 And that rain is very slightly acidic, 232 00:15:32,382 --> 00:15:35,308 A natural acidity from the carbon dioxide in the air, 233 00:15:35,385 --> 00:15:41,397 And when that hits the limestone it will start to dissolve it. 234 00:15:41,474 --> 00:15:46,986 >> this process creates what is known as karst topography. 235 00:15:47,155 --> 00:15:48,479 The limestone of the burren 236 00:15:48,490 --> 00:15:53,317 Is laced with a network of fissures called grikes. 237 00:15:53,328 --> 00:15:55,662 These fissures isolate blocks of stone 238 00:15:55,738 --> 00:15:59,165 At the surface known as clints. 239 00:15:59,242 --> 00:16:01,334 >> the irregular pits, the hollows, the curves, the grooves 240 00:16:01,411 --> 00:16:05,004 They're all a result of water flowing onto the surface 241 00:16:05,215 --> 00:16:06,414 And flowing maybe under the soil as well 242 00:16:06,424 --> 00:16:12,011 Where it dissolves even further. 243 00:16:12,222 --> 00:16:15,515 >> as the limestone bedrock slowly breaks down, 244 00:16:15,591 --> 00:16:20,770 Grikes grow wider and deeper, more water flows through them, 245 00:16:20,847 --> 00:16:26,684 And the grikes continue to grow larger. 246 00:16:26,695 --> 00:16:29,103 >> there are these fractures or joints all through the limestone 247 00:16:29,114 --> 00:16:31,280 Here in the burren, also out on the coast, 248 00:16:31,357 --> 00:16:35,776 And on the coast they're wonderfully exposed. 249 00:16:35,787 --> 00:16:41,040 They are exposed as lines of weakness in the limestone. 250 00:16:41,209 --> 00:16:45,703 >> about 20 miles from mullaghmore, the cracked doolin coast 251 00:16:45,714 --> 00:16:52,301 Looks almost man-made with its precise, sharp lines. 252 00:16:52,378 --> 00:16:56,806 But it, too, is a result of the tectonic and erosive forces 253 00:16:56,883 --> 00:17:02,061 That shaped the rest of the burren. 254 00:17:02,138 --> 00:17:04,722 >> we've got the water dissolving the limestone 255 00:17:04,733 --> 00:17:07,308 Very gradually over a long period of time. 256 00:17:07,318 --> 00:17:09,569 On the coast it's much more dynamic, it's much more active, 257 00:17:09,645 --> 00:17:10,728 And every year you go back there 258 00:17:10,739 --> 00:17:15,241 You see the coast looks different. 259 00:17:15,318 --> 00:17:18,819 >> cracks in the rock bear witness to the tremendous force 260 00:17:18,830 --> 00:17:22,832 Generated far below by the grinding of what are now 261 00:17:22,909 --> 00:17:28,913 The north american and eurasian continental plates. 262 00:17:28,923 --> 00:17:31,591 >> this is two huge plates crashing against each other, 263 00:17:31,667 --> 00:17:34,093 And when I say crashing that exaggerates a little bit. 264 00:17:34,304 --> 00:17:35,920 This is a slow process. 265 00:17:35,930 --> 00:17:37,513 A couple of centimeters a year these two continents 266 00:17:37,590 --> 00:17:41,175 Are pushing into each other. 267 00:17:41,186 --> 00:17:43,519 But there's huge pressure behind that and this pressure 268 00:17:43,596 --> 00:17:49,692 Builds up, builds up in rock and eventually something will give. 269 00:17:49,769 --> 00:17:53,279 >> like miniature earthquakes, these rifts in the limestone 270 00:17:53,356 --> 00:17:58,859 Are the visible evidence of that tectonic pressure. 271 00:17:58,870 --> 00:18:00,787 These might have been just like a millimeter, two millimeters 272 00:18:00,863 --> 00:18:03,280 Wide these cracks, they popped open right through 273 00:18:03,291 --> 00:18:07,451 The whole burren. 274 00:18:07,462 --> 00:18:10,871 >> but even a mere fraction of an inch is enough for water 275 00:18:10,882 --> 00:18:13,541 To exploit chinks in the limestone 276 00:18:13,551 --> 00:18:18,137 As rolling atlantic waves pummel the doolin coast below. 277 00:18:18,264 --> 00:18:19,972 >> these waves pack a huge punch. 278 00:18:20,049 --> 00:18:22,299 They're coming right across the atlantic. 279 00:18:22,310 --> 00:18:25,144 And when it hits the rocks, especially at a high tide, 280 00:18:25,313 --> 00:18:27,563 These joints, these cracks that we talked about, 281 00:18:27,640 --> 00:18:30,558 Are slightly open, the water whams against that. 282 00:18:30,568 --> 00:18:32,810 It pushes in the air that's already in there 283 00:18:32,821 --> 00:18:36,397 And it's like a pneumatic force pounding in against that rock. 284 00:18:36,407 --> 00:18:37,824 And it can actually fracture the rock. 285 00:18:37,900 --> 00:18:41,235 It'll fracture along lines of weakness already there. 286 00:18:41,246 --> 00:18:43,988 That makes it more susceptible to be moved during that storm 287 00:18:43,998 --> 00:18:47,908 Or the next storm or subsequent storms. 288 00:18:47,919 --> 00:18:51,337 >> the waves of the atlantic are even powerful enough to move 289 00:18:51,414 --> 00:18:56,634 Entire blocks of limestone that have washed free from the shore. 290 00:18:58,429 --> 00:19:00,588 >> the rocks are being in some cases flipped over 291 00:19:00,598 --> 00:19:02,014 On top of each other, stacked up 292 00:19:02,091 --> 00:19:05,184 Into piles of large lumps of limestone by these waves, 293 00:19:05,261 --> 00:19:07,845 And sometimes just dragged offshore and broken up. 294 00:19:07,856 --> 00:19:09,013 It's a great way to look at 295 00:19:09,023 --> 00:19:13,767 How the coast is actually eroding there. 296 00:19:13,778 --> 00:19:17,446 >> while the west coast of ireland offers dramatic cliffs 297 00:19:17,523 --> 00:19:24,787 From which to gaze out over the tempestuous atlantic ocean, 298 00:19:24,864 --> 00:19:29,375 The east coast rewards visitors with panoramic views of peaks 299 00:19:29,452 --> 00:19:35,047 And glens steeped in rich history: 300 00:19:35,124 --> 00:19:37,884 The wicklow mountains. 301 00:19:41,631 --> 00:19:44,891 This is the largest area of continuous high ground 302 00:19:44,967 --> 00:19:49,470 In ireland: Nearly 200 square miles 303 00:19:49,480 --> 00:19:54,358 With an unbroken elevation of more than one thousand feet. 304 00:19:57,488 --> 00:20:00,239 The entire region is the result of what's known as 305 00:20:00,316 --> 00:20:04,327 An igneous intrusion: A massive geological event 306 00:20:04,403 --> 00:20:08,206 That occurred about 400 million years ago. 307 00:20:11,744 --> 00:20:15,663 The continental plates of north america and europe collided, 308 00:20:15,673 --> 00:20:19,425 Generating tremendous heat that melted the rock, 309 00:20:19,502 --> 00:20:23,837 Which then rose as magma. 310 00:20:23,848 --> 00:20:28,926 But without the fiery force of a volcano, the magma slowly cooled 311 00:20:28,937 --> 00:20:33,272 Without breaching the surface, creating a form of igneous rock 312 00:20:33,349 --> 00:20:36,817 Familiar to us all: Granite. 313 00:20:41,407 --> 00:20:45,451 This mass of granite forms the leinster mountain chain, 314 00:20:45,528 --> 00:20:49,997 The largest continuous area of granite in ireland and britain. 315 00:20:53,452 --> 00:20:55,953 For centuries, man has quarried granite 316 00:20:55,964 --> 00:21:00,049 From the wicklow mountains, but it's not the only product 317 00:21:00,126 --> 00:21:03,636 Of these beautiful hills and valleys. 318 00:21:03,713 --> 00:21:07,464 As the rocks were subjected to intense heat and pressure, 319 00:21:07,475 --> 00:21:09,475 They were effectively cooked, 320 00:21:09,552 --> 00:21:14,313 Changing form into what's known as metamorphic rock. 321 00:21:14,440 --> 00:21:15,973 These rocks contain elements 322 00:21:15,984 --> 00:21:19,568 Such as lead and zinc, copper and silver. 323 00:21:19,645 --> 00:21:24,156 >> they were concentrated into thin narrow veins of mineral ore. 324 00:21:24,233 --> 00:21:27,910 They filled those cracks in the rock and concentrated 325 00:21:27,987 --> 00:21:33,332 In specific kind of fractures so they then became a target 326 00:21:33,501 --> 00:21:35,668 For miners in the 1800s. 327 00:21:35,745 --> 00:21:37,837 They were a place where you could go in and you could 328 00:21:37,913 --> 00:21:42,508 Dig in a narrow tunnel to extract the lead ore. 329 00:21:42,585 --> 00:21:47,471 It was a mining center of great importance in the 1800s. 330 00:21:51,686 --> 00:21:54,353 >> for more than 150 years, 331 00:21:54,522 --> 00:21:59,358 The wicklow mountains were mined for their treasures. 332 00:21:59,569 --> 00:22:03,112 There was even a brief gold rush in the 18th century 333 00:22:03,189 --> 00:22:06,866 After nearly 200 pounds of gold were discovered here. 334 00:22:11,530 --> 00:22:16,784 Today, the lead mines, closed for good in the mid-1950s, 335 00:22:16,794 --> 00:22:21,005 Sit abandoned in the glendalough and glendasan valleys. 336 00:22:28,514 --> 00:22:31,891 But long before miners began their excavations, 337 00:22:31,967 --> 00:22:38,397 Glaciers left their mark on the wicklow mountains. 338 00:22:38,566 --> 00:22:42,651 During the ice age, layers of snow and ice accumulated, 339 00:22:42,728 --> 00:22:46,822 Growing heavier with each year. 340 00:22:46,899 --> 00:22:50,576 Over time, the glacier slid down the mountainside, 341 00:22:50,653 --> 00:22:56,415 Carving out massive hollows and valleys between the peaks. 342 00:22:56,626 --> 00:22:59,251 >> the glacier came down and scooped the rock 343 00:22:59,328 --> 00:23:01,495 Out of this valley and deepened it, 344 00:23:01,506 --> 00:23:03,672 And then after all the ice melted away 345 00:23:03,749 --> 00:23:07,009 The over-deepened valley was filled with water 346 00:23:07,086 --> 00:23:12,848 And that's what's here now. 347 00:23:12,925 --> 00:23:17,186 >> at the heart of the wicklow mountains is glendalough: 348 00:23:17,263 --> 00:23:21,023 The valley of two lakes. 349 00:23:21,100 --> 00:23:24,443 Glendalough stretches for nearly two miles and is 350 00:23:24,654 --> 00:23:29,448 One of ireland's most popular tourist destinations. 351 00:23:29,525 --> 00:23:33,694 It is an area of sublime natural beauty 352 00:23:33,704 --> 00:23:38,999 And fascinating history: From miners and monks, to monsters. 353 00:23:40,878 --> 00:23:44,037 The sixth-century monk st. Kevin is said to have 354 00:23:44,048 --> 00:23:47,967 Banished a monster from one of the lakes at glendalough 355 00:23:48,043 --> 00:23:51,679 After it harassed the locals and their livestock. 356 00:23:56,719 --> 00:23:59,478 Upper glendalough is a magnificent example 357 00:23:59,605 --> 00:24:04,233 Of a glacial ribbon lake, a long and narrow body of water 358 00:24:04,310 --> 00:24:10,063 Usually found in a trough formed by a glacier. 359 00:24:10,074 --> 00:24:12,491 >> a normal river valley is a kind of a v-shape 360 00:24:12,660 --> 00:24:16,820 But a glacial u-shaped valley is sculpted by ice 361 00:24:16,831 --> 00:24:20,574 In a glacier going down and, as you can see behind us, 362 00:24:20,585 --> 00:24:23,243 It's got steep sides, steep cliffs there, 363 00:24:23,254 --> 00:24:30,167 And the valley floor is relatively flat. 364 00:24:30,178 --> 00:24:32,845 >> to maintain water levels at glendalough, 365 00:24:32,922 --> 00:24:36,932 These glacial basins need to be fed, 366 00:24:37,009 --> 00:24:39,935 And no glaciers remain today. 367 00:24:46,685 --> 00:24:50,279 Mountain streams and rivers now feed these lakes 368 00:24:50,356 --> 00:24:54,658 And provide drinking water for nearby towns. 369 00:24:58,697 --> 00:25:02,124 The river liffey, which runs through the center of dublin 370 00:25:02,201 --> 00:25:08,631 More than 50 miles away, begins its journey here 371 00:25:08,707 --> 00:25:14,553 At the liffey head bog. 372 00:25:14,680 --> 00:25:18,632 Lots of rain, combined with poor soil drainage 373 00:25:18,643 --> 00:25:21,644 Provides the ideal environment for wicklow's 374 00:25:21,720 --> 00:25:26,398 Signature ecosystem: The blanket bog. 375 00:25:26,475 --> 00:25:30,653 >> a blanket bog is what coats the mountain plateau here. 376 00:25:30,729 --> 00:25:33,572 It's a kind of plant structure 377 00:25:33,783 --> 00:25:40,162 That's growing in a waterlogged soil on top of the rock. 378 00:25:40,239 --> 00:25:45,584 Moss grows in that and it forms this layer a meter or two thick 379 00:25:45,795 --> 00:25:48,078 Over the upland areas and it's a very 380 00:25:48,089 --> 00:25:53,750 Specific kind of plant community. 381 00:25:53,761 --> 00:25:57,012 >> the blanket bog, and the moss that dominates it, 382 00:25:57,089 --> 00:26:01,100 Draw nutrients from rainfall to create an environment 383 00:26:01,176 --> 00:26:06,647 That's highly acidic, poor in nutrients and low in oxygen. 384 00:26:08,434 --> 00:26:12,945 Only certain plants can tolerate such a hostile setting, 385 00:26:13,022 --> 00:26:19,868 Making the blanket bog a highly specialized ecosystem. 386 00:26:19,945 --> 00:26:23,113 >> as as the sort of living layer keeps growing up, 387 00:26:23,124 --> 00:26:24,698 The bottom bits die away. 388 00:26:24,709 --> 00:26:27,293 But because they're waterlogged, they form this layer of peat 389 00:26:27,369 --> 00:26:31,297 Which is a low-energy carbon fuel. 390 00:26:31,373 --> 00:26:36,126 And people used to dig that in the past. 391 00:26:36,137 --> 00:26:39,888 If you're on those upland areas, you see these sort of trenches 392 00:26:39,965 --> 00:26:44,727 Where people have extracted peat. 393 00:26:44,803 --> 00:26:49,148 >> for centuries, people in the mountains cut peat for fuel 394 00:26:49,224 --> 00:26:52,735 To warm their houses. 395 00:26:52,811 --> 00:26:56,980 Today, just 28 percent of ireland's original blanket bog 396 00:26:56,991 --> 00:27:02,736 Remains intact. 397 00:27:02,747 --> 00:27:06,248 >> but now it's protected because it's an ecological community 398 00:27:06,325 --> 00:27:10,336 That's very well represented in ireland. 399 00:27:10,412 --> 00:27:12,254 It's important to maintain because it's plant 400 00:27:12,331 --> 00:27:17,259 And ecological diversity that you don't see in other, say, 401 00:27:17,336 --> 00:27:20,003 Upland areas in europe. 402 00:27:20,014 --> 00:27:23,006 >> peat grows just a fraction of an inch per year 403 00:27:23,017 --> 00:27:27,260 And can reach down for several yards. 404 00:27:27,271 --> 00:27:31,106 The partially decomposed plant matter that forms a peat bog 405 00:27:31,183 --> 00:27:35,185 Can take thousands of years to accumulate. 406 00:27:35,196 --> 00:27:40,532 It's a slow process, like the movement of tectonic plates, 407 00:27:40,609 --> 00:27:43,527 The crush of glaciers, 408 00:27:43,537 --> 00:27:50,200 And the building of a bridge to scotland. 409 00:27:50,211 --> 00:27:54,871 According to irish legend, the amazing rock formations at the 410 00:27:54,882 --> 00:27:59,543 Giant's causeway on northern ireland's antrim coast 411 00:27:59,553 --> 00:28:04,682 Are the remains of a bridge built by the giant finn mccool. 412 00:28:08,854 --> 00:28:11,555 He built it for a showdown with his rival, 413 00:28:11,565 --> 00:28:16,402 An oversized scottish rogue named benandonner 414 00:28:16,478 --> 00:28:20,739 Who lived across the north channel in scotland. 415 00:28:20,866 --> 00:28:23,826 Or so some would have you believe. 416 00:28:23,902 --> 00:28:27,154 >> the giant's causeway is more than rocks. 417 00:28:27,164 --> 00:28:29,748 I have listened to stories about a giant called finn mccool 418 00:28:29,959 --> 00:28:31,083 All my life. 419 00:28:31,160 --> 00:28:33,577 And I've been working here for 30 years. 420 00:28:33,587 --> 00:28:35,754 I've been sharing them stories with visitors 421 00:28:35,923 --> 00:28:38,757 Virtually all my life. 422 00:28:38,884 --> 00:28:42,761 >> it's easy to imagine why early inhabitants would credit 423 00:28:42,972 --> 00:28:49,593 A mythic giant with the creation of this extraordinary setting. 424 00:28:49,603 --> 00:28:52,771 But the 40,000 interlocking basalt columns 425 00:28:52,848 --> 00:28:55,858 Of the giant's causeway were actually formed 426 00:28:55,934 --> 00:29:00,863 By a volcanic event more than 50 million years ago. 427 00:29:03,200 --> 00:29:07,360 Deep below the surface, shifting tectonic plates 428 00:29:07,371 --> 00:29:11,114 Forced massive volumes of molten rock through fissures 429 00:29:11,125 --> 00:29:16,795 In the surface to create layers of basalt rock. 430 00:29:16,964 --> 00:29:22,801 Wind, rain and waves carved a valley. 431 00:29:22,970 --> 00:29:25,804 More volcanic eruptions followed. 432 00:29:25,931 --> 00:29:28,965 Lava flowed quickly in thick streams. 433 00:29:28,976 --> 00:29:31,810 >> the valley filled up with lava until it was 100 meters deep. 434 00:29:31,979 --> 00:29:33,637 It was 1,200 degrees celsius. 435 00:29:33,647 --> 00:29:35,222 And it's like everything. 436 00:29:35,232 --> 00:29:37,816 If you boil a kettle it will cool down. 437 00:29:37,943 --> 00:29:40,152 The pool of lava had to cool down. 438 00:29:41,655 --> 00:29:45,982 >> lava at the bottom of the valley cooled slowly. 439 00:29:45,993 --> 00:29:49,986 Then, like mud in a shallow pond on a hot day, 440 00:29:49,997 --> 00:29:56,335 As the lava cooled it contracted and cracked in even patterns. 441 00:29:59,248 --> 00:30:00,497 During the ice age, 442 00:30:00,508 --> 00:30:06,178 Glaciers scraped away at the top layers of rock. 443 00:30:06,255 --> 00:30:09,673 When the ice retreated, sea levels rose, 444 00:30:09,683 --> 00:30:15,679 And pounding waves wore away at more rock. 445 00:30:15,689 --> 00:30:17,856 Variations in the rate of cooling 446 00:30:18,067 --> 00:30:24,688 Produced the honeycomb-like monument that stands today. 447 00:30:24,698 --> 00:30:28,108 Columns can reach 39 feet tall. 448 00:30:28,118 --> 00:30:30,944 While the solid lava deposits in the cliffs 449 00:30:30,955 --> 00:30:33,914 Measure more than 90 feet thick. 450 00:30:41,707 --> 00:30:47,219 High seas pound the rocks of the giant's causeway. 451 00:30:47,296 --> 00:30:51,464 Ireland is known for its volatile weather, 452 00:30:51,475 --> 00:30:53,725 And here on the north-east coast, 453 00:30:53,802 --> 00:30:58,146 Sea mist can roll in quickly. 454 00:30:58,223 --> 00:31:01,057 Navigation can be treacherous, 455 00:31:01,068 --> 00:31:05,237 And ships need to steer clear of the rocks. 456 00:31:10,327 --> 00:31:13,161 The coastline that surrounds giant's causeway 457 00:31:13,238 --> 00:31:16,582 Has caused many wrecks. 458 00:31:16,658 --> 00:31:21,253 In 1588, more than 1,000 seamen died when a 459 00:31:21,330 --> 00:31:27,250 Spanish military ship loaded with treasures sank here. 460 00:31:27,261 --> 00:31:29,002 Today, these formations 461 00:31:29,013 --> 00:31:32,598 Also go by the name spaniard rock. 462 00:31:37,605 --> 00:31:41,982 There are many versions of the legend of the giant's causeway. 463 00:31:45,613 --> 00:31:49,364 Some say finn destroyed the bridge he built. 464 00:31:49,441 --> 00:31:53,035 Others say the scottish giant destroyed it. 465 00:31:53,111 --> 00:31:58,698 But no one disputes why the legend arose in the first place. 466 00:31:58,709 --> 00:32:01,785 Eighty miles across the north channel, 467 00:32:01,795 --> 00:32:04,454 On the scottish island of staffa, 468 00:32:04,465 --> 00:32:06,048 There are basalt columns 469 00:32:06,124 --> 00:32:10,627 Identical to those found on the giant's causeway. 470 00:32:10,638 --> 00:32:13,972 The columns at staffa are part of the same lava field 471 00:32:14,099 --> 00:32:16,549 That built the giant's causeway, 472 00:32:16,560 --> 00:32:21,221 And have fueled its long-standing legend. 473 00:32:21,231 --> 00:32:26,059 The giant's causeway has been a tourist draw for 300 years. 474 00:32:26,070 --> 00:32:30,480 More than half a million people visit each year. 475 00:32:30,491 --> 00:32:34,150 It is the by far the most popular tourist attraction 476 00:32:34,161 --> 00:32:38,405 In northern ireland. 477 00:32:38,415 --> 00:32:42,000 Geological studies here have contributed greatly 478 00:32:42,211 --> 00:32:47,005 To our understanding of basaltic volcanism. 479 00:32:47,082 --> 00:32:49,833 In 1986, the causeway was declared 480 00:32:49,843 --> 00:32:53,220 A unesco world heritage site. 481 00:32:57,434 --> 00:33:02,178 Today it's owned and managed by the national trust in the uk, 482 00:33:02,189 --> 00:33:05,524 To protect this iconic segment of irish heritage 483 00:33:05,600 --> 00:33:08,360 For future generations. 484 00:33:08,437 --> 00:33:10,529 >> when this site was actually privately owned, 485 00:33:10,605 --> 00:33:12,030 The site was quarried. 486 00:33:12,107 --> 00:33:13,615 There was a serious lot of stones took off it. 487 00:33:13,692 --> 00:33:15,534 The national trust bought the site. 488 00:33:15,610 --> 00:33:19,287 When they bought the site all that stopped. 489 00:33:19,364 --> 00:33:23,783 You know, no more stones left the site. 490 00:33:23,794 --> 00:33:26,461 >> a good thing, too. 491 00:33:26,538 --> 00:33:28,880 No one wants a giant at their door 492 00:33:28,957 --> 00:33:32,092 Looking for his stolen rocks. 493 00:33:38,225 --> 00:33:42,302 Some rocks near the causeway, carved by millions of years 494 00:33:42,312 --> 00:33:49,026 Of erosion, resemble elements of finn mccool's world: 495 00:33:52,898 --> 00:33:55,866 The chimney stacks, 496 00:34:04,668 --> 00:34:07,335 The organ, 497 00:34:15,504 --> 00:34:20,849 And the giant's boot. 498 00:34:20,926 --> 00:34:23,343 The boot is one of the most popular features 499 00:34:23,353 --> 00:34:27,597 On the causeway. 500 00:34:27,608 --> 00:34:30,859 Based on the size of the boot, it's estimated that finn 501 00:34:30,936 --> 00:34:34,613 Would have been more than 50 feet tall. 502 00:34:34,689 --> 00:34:35,697 >> it's a boot. 503 00:34:35,774 --> 00:34:38,274 You know, it's the shape of a boot. 504 00:34:38,285 --> 00:34:39,692 I believe it's a boot. 505 00:34:39,703 --> 00:34:42,120 I believe the giant finn mccool left it there 506 00:34:42,331 --> 00:34:43,705 For us to have a look at. 507 00:34:43,782 --> 00:34:45,448 It's a size 93 and a half. 508 00:34:45,459 --> 00:34:47,292 A geologist would totally disagree with you. 509 00:34:59,631 --> 00:35:02,641 >> the same period of extreme volcanic activity 510 00:35:02,717 --> 00:35:06,478 That created the giant's causeway also gave rise 511 00:35:06,555 --> 00:35:10,649 To slieve gullion 100 miles to the south. 512 00:35:18,826 --> 00:35:20,984 >> slieve gullion is known as the most mysterious mountain 513 00:35:20,994 --> 00:35:22,485 In ireland. 514 00:35:22,496 --> 00:35:25,413 And it's got lots of myths and legends associated with it. 515 00:35:25,490 --> 00:35:27,749 And it's the eroded heart of a volcano. 516 00:35:27,826 --> 00:35:32,754 >> more than 60 million years ago, volcanic turmoil far beneath 517 00:35:32,831 --> 00:35:36,758 The surface caused the original slieve gullion volcano 518 00:35:36,835 --> 00:35:41,504 To collapse into a great chamber far below. 519 00:35:41,515 --> 00:35:43,339 The magma in this chamber 520 00:35:43,350 --> 00:35:48,428 Slowly cooled to form the solid granite seen today. 521 00:35:48,438 --> 00:35:52,274 Surrounding the volcano was a circular fracture in the rocks, 522 00:35:52,350 --> 00:35:55,018 Seven miles in diameter. 523 00:35:55,028 --> 00:35:58,196 Magma rose through this crack and cooled, 524 00:35:58,273 --> 00:36:00,690 Forming what's known as a ring dyke, 525 00:36:00,701 --> 00:36:04,619 Leaving a circle of hills around slieve gullion, 526 00:36:04,696 --> 00:36:09,866 Known today as the ring of gullion. 527 00:36:09,877 --> 00:36:12,210 The landscape here has been designated 528 00:36:12,379 --> 00:36:15,630 As an area of outstanding natural beauty, 529 00:36:15,707 --> 00:36:21,219 And is home to a vibrant floral community. 530 00:36:21,346 --> 00:36:24,389 >> slieve gullion is designated as a special area of conservation. 531 00:36:24,466 --> 00:36:26,716 This heather is very, very special. 532 00:36:26,727 --> 00:36:29,469 We've got ling heather and bell heather. 533 00:36:29,479 --> 00:36:32,189 You can still see the lovely purple shades up the mountain. 534 00:36:44,319 --> 00:36:46,828 >> tales of the irish giant finn mccool 535 00:36:46,905 --> 00:36:49,831 Dwell in slieve gullion as well. 536 00:36:57,341 --> 00:36:59,832 The landscape has ignited the imaginations 537 00:36:59,843 --> 00:37:04,512 Of settlers old and new. 538 00:37:04,589 --> 00:37:06,932 >> people here living nowadays, they draw inspiration 539 00:37:07,008 --> 00:37:09,092 From the mountain and those myths and legends 540 00:37:09,102 --> 00:37:11,269 And those characters in their past. 541 00:37:11,346 --> 00:37:13,855 On a day like today whenever we do have that low-lying mist, 542 00:37:13,932 --> 00:37:16,858 It's fantastic because we can see the peaks of the ring dyke 543 00:37:16,935 --> 00:37:18,944 Peeking through all that mist. 544 00:37:19,020 --> 00:37:21,354 You can just imagine whenever those myths and legends 545 00:37:21,365 --> 00:37:24,282 And those characters in the past were roaming around here 546 00:37:24,451 --> 00:37:26,109 And it's very easy to see why this is one of the most 547 00:37:26,119 --> 00:37:28,528 Mystical mountains in ireland. 548 00:37:28,538 --> 00:37:31,790 >> the legend of finn mccool extends from slieve gullion 549 00:37:31,866 --> 00:37:36,670 In the east, all the way west to the slieve league cliffs. 550 00:37:40,384 --> 00:37:41,708 At the base of the cliffs, 551 00:37:41,718 --> 00:37:45,303 In the grey mountains of county donegal, 552 00:37:45,514 --> 00:37:49,799 Two sea stacks - the giant's desk and chair - 553 00:37:49,810 --> 00:37:52,385 Are said to be where finn mccool 554 00:37:52,396 --> 00:37:58,900 Drew up his plans for the giant's causeway. 555 00:37:58,977 --> 00:38:01,403 But there's more here than the office furniture 556 00:38:01,479 --> 00:38:07,150 Of an angry giant. 557 00:38:07,160 --> 00:38:08,410 >> the big significance here I suppose 558 00:38:08,486 --> 00:38:10,486 Is the sheer size in the landscape. 559 00:38:10,497 --> 00:38:13,498 So it's notable from the sea, so early mariners, 560 00:38:13,575 --> 00:38:17,335 People coming to ireland over the times, would've seen it. 561 00:38:17,412 --> 00:38:21,339 It would've been a landmark for them. 562 00:38:21,416 --> 00:38:23,842 >> the majestic cliffs of slieve league 563 00:38:23,918 --> 00:38:29,422 Rise nearly 2,000 feet above the ocean. 564 00:38:29,433 --> 00:38:32,767 They are the highest sea cliffs in ireland, 565 00:38:32,844 --> 00:38:37,480 Twice as tall as the more famous cliffs of moher. 566 00:38:40,110 --> 00:38:44,029 Their origins are just as remarkable. 567 00:38:44,105 --> 00:38:47,198 >> about 200 million years ago, ourselves and the appalachians 568 00:38:47,275 --> 00:38:50,943 Were all the one mountain system way down south of the equator 569 00:38:50,954 --> 00:38:53,371 And over time the whole system moved up north 570 00:38:53,448 --> 00:38:55,790 And divided apart. 571 00:39:01,706 --> 00:39:04,382 >> slieve league has been recognized as the official 572 00:39:04,459 --> 00:39:09,045 Landfall for the international appalachian trail. 573 00:39:09,056 --> 00:39:11,222 These mountains are the trans-atlantic, 574 00:39:11,299 --> 00:39:14,050 Geologic extension of north america's 575 00:39:14,061 --> 00:39:18,396 Appalachian mountains. 576 00:39:18,523 --> 00:39:20,723 The rock here has been directly linked 577 00:39:20,734 --> 00:39:24,736 To that on the east coast of canada. 578 00:39:27,315 --> 00:39:29,232 >> our nearest neighbor in those times 579 00:39:29,242 --> 00:39:30,733 Would've been newfoundland. 580 00:39:30,744 --> 00:39:32,410 So you can see where the irish connection 581 00:39:32,537 --> 00:39:35,663 Was in newfoundland even way before the people were there. 582 00:39:39,994 --> 00:39:45,673 >> the crashing waves below seem quiet from so high above. 583 00:39:47,636 --> 00:39:51,262 And although slieve league's steep face plunges straight into 584 00:39:51,339 --> 00:39:55,433 The powerful atlantic, erosion by waves has played 585 00:39:55,644 --> 00:40:00,146 Only a minor role in shaping this part of the coast. 586 00:40:06,104 --> 00:40:12,450 Slieve league was carved not by water, but by glaciers. 587 00:40:12,661 --> 00:40:14,777 >> this whole area here would've been under ice 588 00:40:14,788 --> 00:40:20,458 Maybe 70 to 100 meters deep and the ice has ground out 589 00:40:20,627 --> 00:40:24,045 And very much shaped the cliffs. 590 00:40:24,122 --> 00:40:27,707 We had thousands of years of ice here up until about 591 00:40:27,717 --> 00:40:30,468 10,000 years ago at the end of the last ice age. 592 00:40:30,679 --> 00:40:32,470 But right behind me here down in the cove there 593 00:40:32,547 --> 00:40:34,222 With the giant's desk and chair, 594 00:40:34,299 --> 00:40:36,975 Was a glacier there for thousands of years. 595 00:40:49,698 --> 00:40:53,900 >> research suggests that the ice sheet that covered slieve league 596 00:40:53,910 --> 00:40:57,912 May have been nearly half a mile thick. 597 00:40:57,989 --> 00:41:03,668 Deep enough to encase the summit. 598 00:41:03,745 --> 00:41:06,754 The enormous weight of that volume of ice would have 599 00:41:06,831 --> 00:41:11,509 Depressed the earth's surface by as much as 650 feet. 600 00:41:16,090 --> 00:41:21,019 Slieve league's dizzying slopes rise to the ridges and trails 601 00:41:21,095 --> 00:41:26,733 Used by hikers to traverse this natural wonder. 602 00:41:30,271 --> 00:41:35,775 Leading to the summit is a trail known as one man's pass. 603 00:41:35,785 --> 00:41:38,870 It is an arete, a knife-like ridge of rock 604 00:41:38,947 --> 00:41:43,583 Formed when two glaciers erode parallel, opposing valleys. 605 00:41:49,216 --> 00:41:53,551 It offers breathtaking views for hikers with good balance 606 00:41:53,628 --> 00:41:57,555 And nerves of steel. 607 00:41:57,766 --> 00:41:59,807 >> most people can cross the one man's pass. 608 00:41:59,884 --> 00:42:02,894 But it's a section of the trail that's about a half mile long 609 00:42:02,971 --> 00:42:05,221 That's only two foot wide. 610 00:42:05,232 --> 00:42:09,067 You've a drop down to the ocean of over 1800 feet. 611 00:42:09,143 --> 00:42:10,318 I always lean the other way, 612 00:42:10,395 --> 00:42:15,231 It's only 1400 feet down to a wee lake. 613 00:42:15,242 --> 00:42:17,817 Some people will crawl it, some people will walk it, 614 00:42:17,827 --> 00:42:19,827 Some people will pray on it. 615 00:42:25,794 --> 00:42:29,078 >> the otherworldly majesty of slieve league 616 00:42:29,089 --> 00:42:33,091 Has drawn and inspired giants and mere mortals alike 617 00:42:33,167 --> 00:42:37,220 Over hundreds if not thousands of years. 618 00:42:41,184 --> 00:42:46,771 Some seek to connect with a higher power. 619 00:42:46,848 --> 00:42:48,439 >> there's a christian pilgrimage going on here 620 00:42:48,516 --> 00:42:50,683 For almost 2000 years, 621 00:42:50,694 --> 00:42:52,860 Since the early christian monks settled up here. 622 00:42:52,937 --> 00:42:55,613 And these pilgrimages we know go back pre-christian 623 00:42:55,824 --> 00:42:58,116 And archaeological evidence will show us 624 00:42:58,192 --> 00:42:59,951 That there was people living, or doing things 625 00:43:00,028 --> 00:43:02,662 On these mountains way before christianity. 626 00:43:16,136 --> 00:43:20,221 >> the cliffs are also home to military installations built 627 00:43:20,298 --> 00:43:24,309 To watch over the possible trespasses of a french emperor. 628 00:43:27,472 --> 00:43:29,480 >> these signal towers, the british built them here 629 00:43:29,557 --> 00:43:33,309 From 1803 until about 1806 or 1807. 630 00:43:33,320 --> 00:43:34,652 And they built a whole series of these 631 00:43:34,729 --> 00:43:37,480 Right around the coast of ireland. 632 00:43:37,490 --> 00:43:39,815 They were watching out for napoleon. 633 00:43:39,826 --> 00:43:42,660 The british were afraid he would invade ireland, arm the irish, 634 00:43:42,787 --> 00:43:45,246 And then maybe chase them out and invade britain. 635 00:43:45,323 --> 00:43:47,665 So this system was set up - 636 00:43:47,792 --> 00:43:50,159 An early watch system basically is what they are. 637 00:43:50,170 --> 00:43:52,629 And they're still standing today. 638 00:44:18,907 --> 00:44:22,700 >> shaped by glaciers, the cliffs of slieve league 639 00:44:22,777 --> 00:44:27,413 Are a breathtaking example of ireland's natural beauty. 640 00:44:30,785 --> 00:44:33,202 >> you couldn't be closer to nature than here. 641 00:44:33,213 --> 00:44:37,382 You have the ocean, the sky, the light, 642 00:44:37,458 --> 00:44:39,542 The wind even in your hair. 643 00:44:39,552 --> 00:44:42,053 You can just get lost in nature. 644 00:44:42,130 --> 00:44:48,476 You couldn't be in a better place. 645 00:44:48,553 --> 00:44:54,357 >> ireland: Small in size, but epic in wonder. 646 00:44:57,821 --> 00:45:05,493 Its vistas and wild spaces are fit for ancient, mythical heroes 647 00:45:05,570 --> 00:45:12,333 And 21st-century explorers. 648 00:45:12,410 --> 00:45:15,336 It is surrounded by the sea, 649 00:45:15,413 --> 00:45:20,416 Yet tied to other lands far across the ocean. 650 00:45:20,427 --> 00:45:27,181 Here, rock and water are locked in constant struggle, 651 00:45:27,258 --> 00:45:30,768 Keeping the earth in a state of flux, 652 00:45:30,845 --> 00:45:36,182 Ensuring that nothing is set in stone forever. 653 00:45:36,192 --> 00:45:43,022 Ireland's mountains and cliffs, its valleys and lakes, 654 00:45:43,032 --> 00:45:49,036 Will continue to rise and fall with the passage of time 655 00:45:49,113 --> 00:45:53,833 On a scale far beyond the realm of mere mortals. 656 00:45:59,040 --> 00:46:09,048 ♪♪ 657 00:46:09,058 --> 00:46:14,637 ♪♪ 658 00:46:14,647 --> 00:46:22,779 ♪♪ 59928

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