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Ireland.
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00:00:05,131 --> 00:00:08,465
The most westerly country
in europe.
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An outpost in
the north atlantic,
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00:00:11,712 --> 00:00:16,724
It is the final landfall
for thousands of miles,
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00:00:16,800 --> 00:00:21,812
And towers above the sea.
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00:00:21,889 --> 00:00:24,723
>> you have the ocean,
the sky, the light,
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The wind even in your hair.
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00:00:26,152 --> 00:00:31,238
You couldn't be closer
to nature than here.
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00:00:31,315 --> 00:00:35,492
>> here, land and sea
clash endlessly.
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00:00:35,569 --> 00:00:39,329
The rock of ireland, bitten
and scoured by glaciers,
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00:00:39,406 --> 00:00:44,918
Is constantly being shaped
and reshaped by water:
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00:00:44,995 --> 00:00:49,840
Pounding waves below,
and driving rain from above.
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00:00:49,917 --> 00:00:51,666
>> it's a very
dynamic landscape.
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00:00:51,677 --> 00:00:53,343
It's very rugged.
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00:00:53,420 --> 00:00:56,096
It evolves day and daily.
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00:00:56,173 --> 00:01:02,761
>> from the rugged antrim coast,
to the wild atlantic way,
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This is ireland.
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(♪♪♪)
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(♪♪♪)
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(♪♪♪)
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The cliffs of moher, a steep
and sweeping precipice
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00:02:04,992 --> 00:02:10,504
On ireland's jagged west coast.
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00:02:10,581 --> 00:02:16,176
The cliffs tower more than 700
feet above the stormy atlantic
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00:02:16,253 --> 00:02:19,421
And present real danger
to those that fail
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00:02:19,431 --> 00:02:24,593
To heed its warning signs.
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00:02:24,603 --> 00:02:29,022
In the year 2000, two
experienced climbers died
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00:02:29,099 --> 00:02:34,528
And another was gravely injured
when rocks above them gave way.
28
00:02:36,365 --> 00:02:39,441
And in 2015, a
visiting photographer
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Captured a spectacular
rock fall in progress.
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00:02:48,118 --> 00:02:51,286
It won't be the last time
that these stunning cliffs
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Crumble into the ocean,
piece by piece.
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A powerful reminder that
the geological violence
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00:03:00,806 --> 00:03:05,634
That built ireland is still
very much alive here.
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00:03:08,472 --> 00:03:11,231
But despite their
many rock falls,
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00:03:11,308 --> 00:03:17,571
The cliffs of moher aren't
disappearing any time soon.
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00:03:17,648 --> 00:03:20,565
They have stood here,
in one form or another,
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00:03:20,576 --> 00:03:25,829
For more than 300 million years,
and greet visitors today
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00:03:25,906 --> 00:03:31,826
Coming east
across the atlantic.
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00:03:31,837 --> 00:03:34,838
The cliffs of moher
extend for five miles
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00:03:34,915 --> 00:03:38,592
Along ireland's
wild atlantic way:
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00:03:38,669 --> 00:03:41,920
A spectacular coastal
route that winds
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00:03:41,931 --> 00:03:46,266
For nearly 1,600 miles
from derry in the north
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00:03:46,343 --> 00:03:52,931
To cork in the south.
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The cliffs of moher draw
close to one million visitors
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00:03:56,445 --> 00:03:59,696
Each year.
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00:03:59,773 --> 00:04:05,944
This is one of the country's
most breathtaking panoramas.
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00:04:05,955 --> 00:04:10,031
The cliffs provide shelter
for more than 30,000 birds
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From 29 different species.
49
00:04:14,964 --> 00:04:17,956
But the land on which they
roost began to accumulate
50
00:04:17,967 --> 00:04:22,719
Long before birds had evolved.
51
00:04:22,796 --> 00:04:26,047
Long before even their
ancestors, the dinosaurs,
52
00:04:26,058 --> 00:04:30,310
Had appeared on the planet.
53
00:04:30,479 --> 00:04:34,314
>> what you're looking at there
is a cross section through time.
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00:04:34,441 --> 00:04:36,808
You can see how the sediments
have changed from the base
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00:04:36,819 --> 00:04:37,985
Right through the top.
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00:04:38,061 --> 00:04:41,321
You can see each
successive layer.
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00:04:41,532 --> 00:04:43,148
>> the cliffs of moher
are the remains
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00:04:43,158 --> 00:04:47,327
Of an ancient river delta.
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00:04:47,404 --> 00:04:51,906
Land created as flooded rivers
dumped silt, sand, and mud
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00:04:51,917 --> 00:04:55,085
Into a shallow tropical sea.
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00:04:59,008 --> 00:05:02,426
This sediment
accumulated layer upon layer
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00:05:02,502 --> 00:05:05,012
For millions of years.
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00:05:09,768 --> 00:05:11,268
>> those sediments are
getting shallower and shallower
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00:05:11,345 --> 00:05:13,437
Because more and more sediment
is pouring out and building out
65
00:05:13,513 --> 00:05:19,860
And making,
essentially making land.
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00:05:19,936 --> 00:05:21,778
Each of those layers may
represent one storm event
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00:05:21,855 --> 00:05:24,698
Or one massive flood event.
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00:05:24,775 --> 00:05:27,108
The fine shale layers then
represent longer periods of time
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00:05:27,119 --> 00:05:29,453
Where sediment has collected
more slowly over time
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00:05:29,529 --> 00:05:32,122
Then the next flood
event will come along.
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00:05:32,199 --> 00:05:36,376
>> new sediment deposited on top
created crushing pressure
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00:05:36,545 --> 00:05:39,037
On the sediment layers below,
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00:05:39,048 --> 00:05:43,967
Compacting them into the
solid rock we see today.
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00:05:44,044 --> 00:05:47,962
Over millions of years, earth's
shifting tectonic plates
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00:05:47,973 --> 00:05:50,640
Carried these
sediment deposits north
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00:05:50,717 --> 00:05:53,852
From their point of origin
south of the equator.
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00:05:59,068 --> 00:06:02,402
But the story doesn't end there.
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00:06:02,571 --> 00:06:05,989
Repeating layers of sandstone,
siltstone and shale
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00:06:06,066 --> 00:06:10,410
Provide a clear view of an
ancient sedimentary basin,
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00:06:10,537 --> 00:06:15,573
Something usually
found underwater.
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00:06:15,584 --> 00:06:18,835
Now above land,
the cliffs of moher
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Reveal their history
inch by inch.
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00:06:23,175 --> 00:06:26,093
This geological treasure
has only been made visible
84
00:06:26,169 --> 00:06:32,432
By the constant, clawing waves
at the base of the cliffs.
85
00:06:32,643 --> 00:06:36,094
>> those waves come in,
they will undercut the
base of the cliffs,
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00:06:36,105 --> 00:06:38,263
Especially the shaley bits
that will weaken it.
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00:06:38,273 --> 00:06:41,024
And parts will fall
into the sea.
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00:06:41,101 --> 00:06:43,184
The clear shale, those dark,
very dark rocks
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00:06:43,195 --> 00:06:44,194
They've got fossils in them,
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00:06:44,271 --> 00:06:45,445
They've got bits of
plant material,
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00:06:45,572 --> 00:06:46,780
They've got goniatites,
but not much,
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00:06:46,857 --> 00:06:48,865
They don't have the same
variety of fossils
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00:06:48,942 --> 00:06:50,117
That we get in the limestone.
94
00:06:50,193 --> 00:06:51,776
So it was a very
difficult environment
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00:06:51,787 --> 00:06:53,120
For things to live in.
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00:06:53,196 --> 00:06:56,456
You've got rivers flowing
on a swampy, marshy area
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00:06:56,667 --> 00:06:59,209
And we get evidence of that
from lots of tree material.
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00:06:59,286 --> 00:07:01,294
We even find the roots of those
trees in some of the sections
99
00:07:01,371 --> 00:07:04,631
So we know there was plants
growing on essentially soil
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00:07:04,708 --> 00:07:07,959
In that area.
101
00:07:07,970 --> 00:07:13,548
>> just offshore, branaunmore,
a 220-foot-high sea stack,
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00:07:13,559 --> 00:07:19,137
Stands like an
ancient guardian.
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00:07:19,148 --> 00:07:20,555
>> the sea stack is a
remnant actually
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00:07:20,566 --> 00:07:23,224
Of where the cliffs used to be.
105
00:07:23,235 --> 00:07:26,653
The cliffs of moher
are eroding backwards.
106
00:07:26,730 --> 00:07:29,823
Due to these joints, due to the
shaley nature of the cliffs,
107
00:07:29,900 --> 00:07:31,741
And mostly because of these
fantastic waves that are
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00:07:31,818 --> 00:07:37,155
Coming in from the atlantic
pounding it every year.
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00:07:37,166 --> 00:07:40,000
Those promontories can get
isolated so either side of them
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Will get eroded away more and
eventually they get eroded away
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00:07:42,662 --> 00:07:44,245
At the back.
112
00:07:44,256 --> 00:07:46,915
And that, sometimes they'll form
arches initially and then those
113
00:07:46,925 --> 00:07:50,844
Arches will collapse and
be left with a sea stack.
114
00:07:50,921 --> 00:07:55,098
>> the rate of recession for the
cliffs hasn't been measured.
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00:07:55,175 --> 00:07:59,269
But on the nearby aran
islands the cliffs recede
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More than a foot-and-a-half
each year due to erosion
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00:08:02,849 --> 00:08:07,277
Caused by battering waves.
118
00:08:07,354 --> 00:08:09,604
The branaunmore sea
stack is a reminder
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00:08:09,615 --> 00:08:15,118
That nothing set in stone
will remain forever.
120
00:08:15,195 --> 00:08:17,704
By the waves it was created.
121
00:08:17,781 --> 00:08:20,949
By the waves it
will be consumed.
122
00:08:20,959 --> 00:08:22,459
>> over time that sea stack
is going to be eroded
123
00:08:22,536 --> 00:08:25,203
And that sea stack will fall and
collapse into the sea as well.
124
00:08:25,214 --> 00:08:26,704
They come and then they go.
125
00:08:26,715 --> 00:08:29,799
There'll be new ones forming
long after we're gone.
126
00:08:35,465 --> 00:08:37,307
>> the cliffs of moher.
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00:08:37,384 --> 00:08:41,135
Not quite eternal, but
immortalized in films
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00:08:41,146 --> 00:08:43,563
Such as the princess bride
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00:08:43,640 --> 00:08:48,235
And harry potter and
the half-blood prince.
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00:08:48,311 --> 00:08:49,903
And no wonder:
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They're a special effect 300
million years in the making.
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00:09:07,747 --> 00:09:11,675
Eight miles north of the cliffs
of moher in the region known as
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The burren is the ivy cliff
cave, or as it's known today:
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Doolin cave.
135
00:09:21,728 --> 00:09:25,355
>> doolin cave formed like
every other cave in the burren.
136
00:09:25,432 --> 00:09:27,607
It's on the limestone, so
there was groundwater,
137
00:09:27,776 --> 00:09:28,775
There was water flowing,
138
00:09:28,852 --> 00:09:31,278
Slightly acidic water,
and over time
139
00:09:31,354 --> 00:09:35,365
That just eroded channels within
the rock and the limestone.
140
00:09:35,442 --> 00:09:39,202
>> hidden 80 feet beneath the
entrance to doolin cave
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Is its prized treasure:
The great stalactite.
142
00:09:47,045 --> 00:09:50,038
At 23 feet, it is
one of the longest
143
00:09:50,048 --> 00:09:54,792
Free-hanging stalactites
in the northern hemisphere.
144
00:09:54,803 --> 00:09:58,880
Limestone stalactites form
as slightly acidic rainwater
145
00:09:58,890 --> 00:10:02,392
Seeps through the bedrock,
dissolving and eroding
146
00:10:02,469 --> 00:10:05,219
The minerals as it flows.
147
00:10:05,230 --> 00:10:09,390
Where water drips from the roof
of a cave, dissolved limestone
148
00:10:09,401 --> 00:10:14,812
In the water precipitates
out and hardens as calcite.
149
00:10:14,823 --> 00:10:19,067
Over time, minuscule amounts
of calcite build up,
150
00:10:19,077 --> 00:10:21,745
Eventually forming
giant solid deposits
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00:10:21,821 --> 00:10:24,664
That appear to drip
from the cave ceiling.
152
00:10:24,791 --> 00:10:28,084
>> in most caves you'll get
single, small, straw-like
stalactites.
153
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They're quite common.
154
00:10:29,755 --> 00:10:31,329
It started forming almost
certainly in the same way
155
00:10:31,340 --> 00:10:34,165
As all the others, but the
water continued flowing there
156
00:10:34,176 --> 00:10:38,261
For a longer period of time.
157
00:10:38,338 --> 00:10:41,005
>> the great stalactite
is a dramatic example
158
00:10:41,016 --> 00:10:46,853
Of the geological processes
that shape ireland.
159
00:10:46,930 --> 00:10:50,690
It was created over
hundreds of thousands of years,
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00:10:50,817 --> 00:10:55,770
Literally one drip at a time.
161
00:10:55,781 --> 00:10:59,282
But doolin cave and
its remarkable stalactite
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Are just one small feature
in the burren landscape.
163
00:11:04,114 --> 00:11:06,364
>> the burren comes from the
old irish word bhoireann,
164
00:11:06,375 --> 00:11:10,543
Which means rocky place.
165
00:11:10,620 --> 00:11:14,714
>> this rocky place, comprised
of nearly 100 square miles
166
00:11:14,925 --> 00:11:17,467
Of spectacular, rolling hills,
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00:11:17,544 --> 00:11:23,723
Was formed some
350 million years ago.
168
00:11:23,892 --> 00:11:27,477
It is a limestone pavement:
Layer-upon-layer
169
00:11:27,554 --> 00:11:30,730
Of calcium carbonate sediment
that was once at the
170
00:11:30,807 --> 00:11:35,226
Bottom of the ocean, deposited
by the skeletal remains
171
00:11:35,237 --> 00:11:39,072
Of ancient marine organisms.
172
00:11:39,149 --> 00:11:42,826
The sea life that formed this
pavement once lived in the
173
00:11:42,902 --> 00:11:47,247
Same tropical sea, fed by the
river that helped give rise
174
00:11:47,323 --> 00:11:51,325
To the cliffs of moher.
175
00:11:51,336 --> 00:11:54,504
The rock of the burren was
compressed and hardened
176
00:11:54,581 --> 00:12:00,251
By the weight of successive
layers of calcium carbonate.
177
00:12:00,262 --> 00:12:04,005
This sea floor once occupied
a place much farther south,
178
00:12:04,015 --> 00:12:08,184
At the same latitude
where egypt is today.
179
00:12:08,261 --> 00:12:12,930
As tectonic plates moved,
these rocks drifted north,
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00:12:12,941 --> 00:12:16,276
Landing here when an
ancient ocean closed
181
00:12:16,352 --> 00:12:19,020
And two plates of
crust collided,
182
00:12:19,030 --> 00:12:24,576
Forcing what was the seafloor to
emerge high above the waves.
183
00:12:26,371 --> 00:12:29,030
In the south-eastern
part of the burren,
184
00:12:29,040 --> 00:12:33,126
An arresting 560-foot-high
limestone hill
185
00:12:33,203 --> 00:12:36,537
Bears the twists and
bends of a landscape
186
00:12:36,548 --> 00:12:39,966
That was once under
extreme pressure.
187
00:12:40,043 --> 00:12:42,802
It is mullaghmore.
188
00:12:43,013 --> 00:12:46,881
In irish, it means great summit.
189
00:12:46,892 --> 00:12:49,884
>> there's irregular curved
folds in the limestone there
190
00:12:49,895 --> 00:12:51,302
And that's a result
of compression.
191
00:12:51,313 --> 00:12:53,888
That's the result of a
continent sliding along
192
00:12:53,899 --> 00:12:56,307
The surface of the earth,
hitting another continent,
193
00:12:56,318 --> 00:13:00,820
The rocks buckle and they
folded, nice and gentle.
194
00:13:00,989 --> 00:13:04,315
>> but this was far from the
end of the geological story
195
00:13:04,326 --> 00:13:07,827
For this new piece of land.
196
00:13:07,996 --> 00:13:10,163
What is now ireland
was subjected
197
00:13:10,240 --> 00:13:14,834
To the unrelenting chill
and crush of glaciers.
198
00:13:14,911 --> 00:13:18,162
>> this area has been
subject to glaciation.
199
00:13:18,173 --> 00:13:20,840
Like most of ireland it was
covered by ice at some point.
200
00:13:20,917 --> 00:13:24,093
And once the ice
travelled mostly from
the north, northeast,
201
00:13:24,170 --> 00:13:26,513
It scraped off the surface,
scraped off any soil
202
00:13:26,589 --> 00:13:31,342
That was there, and it
exposed bare limestone.
203
00:13:31,353 --> 00:13:34,262
>> the last glacial period
to affect the burren
204
00:13:34,272 --> 00:13:38,274
Ended 14,000 years ago.
205
00:13:38,351 --> 00:13:42,612
But while the landscape may
have been scraped bare by ice,
206
00:13:42,689 --> 00:13:46,691
The land itself is
far from barren.
207
00:13:46,701 --> 00:13:50,444
>> that then got colonized
slowly afterwards by
initially grasses
208
00:13:50,455 --> 00:13:54,874
And then more advanced
trees and bushes.
209
00:13:54,951 --> 00:13:57,877
And then when humans came along,
around about 5,000 years ago,
210
00:13:58,046 --> 00:14:00,547
They started cutting
those trees down.
211
00:14:00,623 --> 00:14:04,717
>> the hunter-gatherers that cut
down great swaths of forest
212
00:14:04,794 --> 00:14:10,298
For timber also raised cattle
that devoured grasses,
213
00:14:10,308 --> 00:14:16,470
Contributing to the
current stark landscape.
214
00:14:16,481 --> 00:14:23,903
In 1651 an english army officer
described the burren as:
215
00:14:23,980 --> 00:14:27,907
"a country where there is not
water enough to drown a man,
216
00:14:28,076 --> 00:14:33,404
Wood enough to hang one,
nor earth enough to bury them.
217
00:14:33,415 --> 00:14:36,875
And yet their cattle
are very fat."
218
00:14:44,593 --> 00:14:48,511
Wildflowers and grasses take
root in cracks and crevices in
219
00:14:48,588 --> 00:14:54,350
The limestone and flourish in
the burren's sweet, damp air.
220
00:14:56,021 --> 00:14:59,272
>> it's got grasses, it's got
shrubs, it's got a fantastic mix
221
00:14:59,349 --> 00:15:01,682
Of alpine and
mediterranean flowers.
222
00:15:01,693 --> 00:15:04,360
People come from all over the
world to see that together
223
00:15:04,437 --> 00:15:06,529
In the same place, and it's
not the arctic and it's not
224
00:15:06,606 --> 00:15:10,950
The mediterranean: It's in
the west coast of ireland.
225
00:15:11,077 --> 00:15:13,286
>> but underneath the
surprising plant life
226
00:15:13,363 --> 00:15:18,541
There's the limestone,
scrubbed and scratched by ice,
227
00:15:18,618 --> 00:15:23,704
Stripped and depleted by man,
and now eroded by water.
228
00:15:23,715 --> 00:15:26,049
>> once this limestone has
been exposed to the surface
229
00:15:26,125 --> 00:15:28,217
What happens is
rain will fall on it,
230
00:15:28,294 --> 00:15:30,544
And we get a significant amount
of rain here in the burren,
231
00:15:30,555 --> 00:15:32,305
And that rain is very
slightly acidic,
232
00:15:32,382 --> 00:15:35,308
A natural acidity from the
carbon dioxide in the air,
233
00:15:35,385 --> 00:15:41,397
And when that hits the limestone
it will start to dissolve it.
234
00:15:41,474 --> 00:15:46,986
>> this process creates what
is known as karst topography.
235
00:15:47,155 --> 00:15:48,479
The limestone of the burren
236
00:15:48,490 --> 00:15:53,317
Is laced with a network
of fissures called grikes.
237
00:15:53,328 --> 00:15:55,662
These fissures
isolate blocks of stone
238
00:15:55,738 --> 00:15:59,165
At the surface known as clints.
239
00:15:59,242 --> 00:16:01,334
>> the irregular pits, the
hollows, the curves, the grooves
240
00:16:01,411 --> 00:16:05,004
They're all a result of water
flowing onto the surface
241
00:16:05,215 --> 00:16:06,414
And flowing maybe
under the soil as well
242
00:16:06,424 --> 00:16:12,011
Where it dissolves
even further.
243
00:16:12,222 --> 00:16:15,515
>> as the limestone bedrock
slowly breaks down,
244
00:16:15,591 --> 00:16:20,770
Grikes grow wider and deeper,
more water flows through them,
245
00:16:20,847 --> 00:16:26,684
And the grikes
continue to grow larger.
246
00:16:26,695 --> 00:16:29,103
>> there are these fractures or
joints all through the limestone
247
00:16:29,114 --> 00:16:31,280
Here in the burren,
also out on the coast,
248
00:16:31,357 --> 00:16:35,776
And on the coast they're
wonderfully exposed.
249
00:16:35,787 --> 00:16:41,040
They are exposed as lines of
weakness in the limestone.
250
00:16:41,209 --> 00:16:45,703
>> about 20 miles from
mullaghmore, the cracked
doolin coast
251
00:16:45,714 --> 00:16:52,301
Looks almost man-made
with its precise, sharp lines.
252
00:16:52,378 --> 00:16:56,806
But it, too, is a result of the
tectonic and erosive forces
253
00:16:56,883 --> 00:17:02,061
That shaped the rest
of the burren.
254
00:17:02,138 --> 00:17:04,722
>> we've got the water
dissolving the limestone
255
00:17:04,733 --> 00:17:07,308
Very gradually over
a long period of time.
256
00:17:07,318 --> 00:17:09,569
On the coast it's much more
dynamic, it's much more active,
257
00:17:09,645 --> 00:17:10,728
And every year
you go back there
258
00:17:10,739 --> 00:17:15,241
You see the coast
looks different.
259
00:17:15,318 --> 00:17:18,819
>> cracks in the rock bear
witness to the tremendous force
260
00:17:18,830 --> 00:17:22,832
Generated far below by the
grinding of what are now
261
00:17:22,909 --> 00:17:28,913
The north american and
eurasian continental plates.
262
00:17:28,923 --> 00:17:31,591
>> this is two huge plates
crashing against each other,
263
00:17:31,667 --> 00:17:34,093
And when I say crashing
that exaggerates a little bit.
264
00:17:34,304 --> 00:17:35,920
This is a slow process.
265
00:17:35,930 --> 00:17:37,513
A couple of centimeters a
year these two continents
266
00:17:37,590 --> 00:17:41,175
Are pushing into each other.
267
00:17:41,186 --> 00:17:43,519
But there's huge pressure
behind that and this pressure
268
00:17:43,596 --> 00:17:49,692
Builds up, builds up in rock and
eventually something will give.
269
00:17:49,769 --> 00:17:53,279
>> like miniature earthquakes,
these rifts in the limestone
270
00:17:53,356 --> 00:17:58,859
Are the visible evidence of
that tectonic pressure.
271
00:17:58,870 --> 00:18:00,787
These might have been just like
a millimeter, two millimeters
272
00:18:00,863 --> 00:18:03,280
Wide these cracks, they
popped open right through
273
00:18:03,291 --> 00:18:07,451
The whole burren.
274
00:18:07,462 --> 00:18:10,871
>> but even a mere fraction of
an inch is enough for water
275
00:18:10,882 --> 00:18:13,541
To exploit chinks
in the limestone
276
00:18:13,551 --> 00:18:18,137
As rolling atlantic waves
pummel the doolin coast below.
277
00:18:18,264 --> 00:18:19,972
>> these waves pack
a huge punch.
278
00:18:20,049 --> 00:18:22,299
They're coming right
across the atlantic.
279
00:18:22,310 --> 00:18:25,144
And when it hits the rocks,
especially at a high tide,
280
00:18:25,313 --> 00:18:27,563
These joints, these cracks
that we talked about,
281
00:18:27,640 --> 00:18:30,558
Are slightly open, the
water whams against that.
282
00:18:30,568 --> 00:18:32,810
It pushes in the air
that's already in there
283
00:18:32,821 --> 00:18:36,397
And it's like a pneumatic force
pounding in against that rock.
284
00:18:36,407 --> 00:18:37,824
And it can actually
fracture the rock.
285
00:18:37,900 --> 00:18:41,235
It'll fracture along lines of
weakness already there.
286
00:18:41,246 --> 00:18:43,988
That makes it more susceptible
to be moved during that storm
287
00:18:43,998 --> 00:18:47,908
Or the next storm or
subsequent storms.
288
00:18:47,919 --> 00:18:51,337
>> the waves of the atlantic are
even powerful enough to move
289
00:18:51,414 --> 00:18:56,634
Entire blocks of limestone that
have washed free from the shore.
290
00:18:58,429 --> 00:19:00,588
>> the rocks are being in
some cases flipped over
291
00:19:00,598 --> 00:19:02,014
On top of each other,
stacked up
292
00:19:02,091 --> 00:19:05,184
Into piles of large lumps of
limestone by these waves,
293
00:19:05,261 --> 00:19:07,845
And sometimes just dragged
offshore and broken up.
294
00:19:07,856 --> 00:19:09,013
It's a great way to look at
295
00:19:09,023 --> 00:19:13,767
How the coast is
actually eroding there.
296
00:19:13,778 --> 00:19:17,446
>> while the west coast of
ireland offers dramatic cliffs
297
00:19:17,523 --> 00:19:24,787
From which to gaze out over the
tempestuous atlantic ocean,
298
00:19:24,864 --> 00:19:29,375
The east coast rewards visitors
with panoramic views of peaks
299
00:19:29,452 --> 00:19:35,047
And glens steeped
in rich history:
300
00:19:35,124 --> 00:19:37,884
The wicklow mountains.
301
00:19:41,631 --> 00:19:44,891
This is the largest area
of continuous high ground
302
00:19:44,967 --> 00:19:49,470
In ireland: Nearly
200 square miles
303
00:19:49,480 --> 00:19:54,358
With an unbroken elevation
of more than one thousand feet.
304
00:19:57,488 --> 00:20:00,239
The entire region is the
result of what's known as
305
00:20:00,316 --> 00:20:04,327
An igneous intrusion: A
massive geological event
306
00:20:04,403 --> 00:20:08,206
That occurred about
400 million years ago.
307
00:20:11,744 --> 00:20:15,663
The continental plates of north
america and europe collided,
308
00:20:15,673 --> 00:20:19,425
Generating tremendous
heat that melted the rock,
309
00:20:19,502 --> 00:20:23,837
Which then rose as magma.
310
00:20:23,848 --> 00:20:28,926
But without the fiery force of a
volcano, the magma slowly cooled
311
00:20:28,937 --> 00:20:33,272
Without breaching the surface,
creating a form of igneous rock
312
00:20:33,349 --> 00:20:36,817
Familiar to us all: Granite.
313
00:20:41,407 --> 00:20:45,451
This mass of granite forms
the leinster mountain chain,
314
00:20:45,528 --> 00:20:49,997
The largest continuous area of
granite in ireland and britain.
315
00:20:53,452 --> 00:20:55,953
For centuries, man
has quarried granite
316
00:20:55,964 --> 00:21:00,049
From the wicklow mountains,
but it's not the only product
317
00:21:00,126 --> 00:21:03,636
Of these beautiful
hills and valleys.
318
00:21:03,713 --> 00:21:07,464
As the rocks were subjected
to intense heat and pressure,
319
00:21:07,475 --> 00:21:09,475
They were effectively cooked,
320
00:21:09,552 --> 00:21:14,313
Changing form into what's
known as metamorphic rock.
321
00:21:14,440 --> 00:21:15,973
These rocks contain elements
322
00:21:15,984 --> 00:21:19,568
Such as lead and zinc,
copper and silver.
323
00:21:19,645 --> 00:21:24,156
>> they were concentrated
into thin narrow veins of
mineral ore.
324
00:21:24,233 --> 00:21:27,910
They filled those cracks in
the rock and concentrated
325
00:21:27,987 --> 00:21:33,332
In specific kind of fractures
so they then became a target
326
00:21:33,501 --> 00:21:35,668
For miners in the 1800s.
327
00:21:35,745 --> 00:21:37,837
They were a place where
you could go in and you could
328
00:21:37,913 --> 00:21:42,508
Dig in a narrow tunnel
to extract the lead ore.
329
00:21:42,585 --> 00:21:47,471
It was a mining center of
great importance in the 1800s.
330
00:21:51,686 --> 00:21:54,353
>> for more than 150 years,
331
00:21:54,522 --> 00:21:59,358
The wicklow mountains were
mined for their treasures.
332
00:21:59,569 --> 00:22:03,112
There was even a brief
gold rush in the 18th century
333
00:22:03,189 --> 00:22:06,866
After nearly 200 pounds of
gold were discovered here.
334
00:22:11,530 --> 00:22:16,784
Today, the lead mines, closed
for good in the mid-1950s,
335
00:22:16,794 --> 00:22:21,005
Sit abandoned in the glendalough
and glendasan valleys.
336
00:22:28,514 --> 00:22:31,891
But long before miners
began their excavations,
337
00:22:31,967 --> 00:22:38,397
Glaciers left their mark
on the wicklow mountains.
338
00:22:38,566 --> 00:22:42,651
During the ice age, layers of
snow and ice accumulated,
339
00:22:42,728 --> 00:22:46,822
Growing heavier with each year.
340
00:22:46,899 --> 00:22:50,576
Over time, the glacier
slid down the mountainside,
341
00:22:50,653 --> 00:22:56,415
Carving out massive hollows
and valleys between the peaks.
342
00:22:56,626 --> 00:22:59,251
>> the glacier came down
and scooped the rock
343
00:22:59,328 --> 00:23:01,495
Out of this valley
and deepened it,
344
00:23:01,506 --> 00:23:03,672
And then after all
the ice melted away
345
00:23:03,749 --> 00:23:07,009
The over-deepened valley
was filled with water
346
00:23:07,086 --> 00:23:12,848
And that's what's here now.
347
00:23:12,925 --> 00:23:17,186
>> at the heart of the wicklow
mountains is glendalough:
348
00:23:17,263 --> 00:23:21,023
The valley of two lakes.
349
00:23:21,100 --> 00:23:24,443
Glendalough stretches for
nearly two miles and is
350
00:23:24,654 --> 00:23:29,448
One of ireland's most popular
tourist destinations.
351
00:23:29,525 --> 00:23:33,694
It is an area of
sublime natural beauty
352
00:23:33,704 --> 00:23:38,999
And fascinating history: From
miners and monks, to monsters.
353
00:23:40,878 --> 00:23:44,037
The sixth-century monk
st. Kevin is said to have
354
00:23:44,048 --> 00:23:47,967
Banished a monster from one
of the lakes at glendalough
355
00:23:48,043 --> 00:23:51,679
After it harassed the locals
and their livestock.
356
00:23:56,719 --> 00:23:59,478
Upper glendalough is
a magnificent example
357
00:23:59,605 --> 00:24:04,233
Of a glacial ribbon lake, a
long and narrow body of water
358
00:24:04,310 --> 00:24:10,063
Usually found in a trough
formed by a glacier.
359
00:24:10,074 --> 00:24:12,491
>> a normal river valley
is a kind of a v-shape
360
00:24:12,660 --> 00:24:16,820
But a glacial u-shaped
valley is sculpted by ice
361
00:24:16,831 --> 00:24:20,574
In a glacier going down and,
as you can see behind us,
362
00:24:20,585 --> 00:24:23,243
It's got steep sides,
steep cliffs there,
363
00:24:23,254 --> 00:24:30,167
And the valley floor
is relatively flat.
364
00:24:30,178 --> 00:24:32,845
>> to maintain water
levels at glendalough,
365
00:24:32,922 --> 00:24:36,932
These glacial basins
need to be fed,
366
00:24:37,009 --> 00:24:39,935
And no glaciers
remain today.
367
00:24:46,685 --> 00:24:50,279
Mountain streams and rivers
now feed these lakes
368
00:24:50,356 --> 00:24:54,658
And provide drinking
water for nearby towns.
369
00:24:58,697 --> 00:25:02,124
The river liffey, which runs
through the center of dublin
370
00:25:02,201 --> 00:25:08,631
More than 50 miles away,
begins its journey here
371
00:25:08,707 --> 00:25:14,553
At the liffey head bog.
372
00:25:14,680 --> 00:25:18,632
Lots of rain, combined
with poor soil drainage
373
00:25:18,643 --> 00:25:21,644
Provides the ideal
environment for wicklow's
374
00:25:21,720 --> 00:25:26,398
Signature ecosystem:
The blanket bog.
375
00:25:26,475 --> 00:25:30,653
>> a blanket bog is what coats
the mountain plateau here.
376
00:25:30,729 --> 00:25:33,572
It's a kind of plant structure
377
00:25:33,783 --> 00:25:40,162
That's growing in a waterlogged
soil on top of the rock.
378
00:25:40,239 --> 00:25:45,584
Moss grows in that and it forms
this layer a meter or two thick
379
00:25:45,795 --> 00:25:48,078
Over the upland
areas and it's a very
380
00:25:48,089 --> 00:25:53,750
Specific kind of
plant community.
381
00:25:53,761 --> 00:25:57,012
>> the blanket bog, and
the moss that dominates it,
382
00:25:57,089 --> 00:26:01,100
Draw nutrients from rainfall
to create an environment
383
00:26:01,176 --> 00:26:06,647
That's highly acidic, poor in
nutrients and low in oxygen.
384
00:26:08,434 --> 00:26:12,945
Only certain plants can tolerate
such a hostile setting,
385
00:26:13,022 --> 00:26:19,868
Making the blanket bog a
highly specialized ecosystem.
386
00:26:19,945 --> 00:26:23,113
>> as as the sort of living
layer keeps growing up,
387
00:26:23,124 --> 00:26:24,698
The bottom bits die away.
388
00:26:24,709 --> 00:26:27,293
But because they're waterlogged,
they form this layer of peat
389
00:26:27,369 --> 00:26:31,297
Which is a
low-energy carbon fuel.
390
00:26:31,373 --> 00:26:36,126
And people used to
dig that in the past.
391
00:26:36,137 --> 00:26:39,888
If you're on those upland areas,
you see these sort of trenches
392
00:26:39,965 --> 00:26:44,727
Where people
have extracted peat.
393
00:26:44,803 --> 00:26:49,148
>> for centuries, people in the
mountains cut peat for fuel
394
00:26:49,224 --> 00:26:52,735
To warm their houses.
395
00:26:52,811 --> 00:26:56,980
Today, just 28 percent of
ireland's original blanket bog
396
00:26:56,991 --> 00:27:02,736
Remains intact.
397
00:27:02,747 --> 00:27:06,248
>> but now it's protected
because it's an
ecological community
398
00:27:06,325 --> 00:27:10,336
That's very well represented
in ireland.
399
00:27:10,412 --> 00:27:12,254
It's important to maintain
because it's plant
400
00:27:12,331 --> 00:27:17,259
And ecological diversity that
you don't see in other, say,
401
00:27:17,336 --> 00:27:20,003
Upland areas in europe.
402
00:27:20,014 --> 00:27:23,006
>> peat grows just a fraction
of an inch per year
403
00:27:23,017 --> 00:27:27,260
And can reach down
for several yards.
404
00:27:27,271 --> 00:27:31,106
The partially decomposed plant
matter that forms a peat bog
405
00:27:31,183 --> 00:27:35,185
Can take thousands of
years to accumulate.
406
00:27:35,196 --> 00:27:40,532
It's a slow process, like the
movement of tectonic plates,
407
00:27:40,609 --> 00:27:43,527
The crush of glaciers,
408
00:27:43,537 --> 00:27:50,200
And the building of
a bridge to scotland.
409
00:27:50,211 --> 00:27:54,871
According to irish legend, the
amazing rock formations at the
410
00:27:54,882 --> 00:27:59,543
Giant's causeway on
northern ireland's antrim coast
411
00:27:59,553 --> 00:28:04,682
Are the remains of a bridge
built by the giant finn mccool.
412
00:28:08,854 --> 00:28:11,555
He built it for a
showdown with his rival,
413
00:28:11,565 --> 00:28:16,402
An oversized scottish
rogue named benandonner
414
00:28:16,478 --> 00:28:20,739
Who lived across the
north channel in scotland.
415
00:28:20,866 --> 00:28:23,826
Or so some would
have you believe.
416
00:28:23,902 --> 00:28:27,154
>> the giant's causeway
is more than rocks.
417
00:28:27,164 --> 00:28:29,748
I have listened to stories about
a giant called finn mccool
418
00:28:29,959 --> 00:28:31,083
All my life.
419
00:28:31,160 --> 00:28:33,577
And I've been working
here for 30 years.
420
00:28:33,587 --> 00:28:35,754
I've been sharing them
stories with visitors
421
00:28:35,923 --> 00:28:38,757
Virtually all my life.
422
00:28:38,884 --> 00:28:42,761
>> it's easy to imagine why
early inhabitants would credit
423
00:28:42,972 --> 00:28:49,593
A mythic giant with the creation
of this extraordinary setting.
424
00:28:49,603 --> 00:28:52,771
But the 40,000
interlocking basalt columns
425
00:28:52,848 --> 00:28:55,858
Of the giant's causeway
were actually formed
426
00:28:55,934 --> 00:29:00,863
By a volcanic event more
than 50 million years ago.
427
00:29:03,200 --> 00:29:07,360
Deep below the surface,
shifting tectonic plates
428
00:29:07,371 --> 00:29:11,114
Forced massive volumes of
molten rock through fissures
429
00:29:11,125 --> 00:29:16,795
In the surface to create
layers of basalt rock.
430
00:29:16,964 --> 00:29:22,801
Wind, rain and waves
carved a valley.
431
00:29:22,970 --> 00:29:25,804
More volcanic
eruptions followed.
432
00:29:25,931 --> 00:29:28,965
Lava flowed quickly
in thick streams.
433
00:29:28,976 --> 00:29:31,810
>> the valley filled up
with lava until it was
100 meters deep.
434
00:29:31,979 --> 00:29:33,637
It was 1,200 degrees celsius.
435
00:29:33,647 --> 00:29:35,222
And it's like everything.
436
00:29:35,232 --> 00:29:37,816
If you boil a kettle
it will cool down.
437
00:29:37,943 --> 00:29:40,152
The pool of lava
had to cool down.
438
00:29:41,655 --> 00:29:45,982
>> lava at the bottom of
the valley cooled slowly.
439
00:29:45,993 --> 00:29:49,986
Then, like mud in a shallow
pond on a hot day,
440
00:29:49,997 --> 00:29:56,335
As the lava cooled it contracted
and cracked in even patterns.
441
00:29:59,248 --> 00:30:00,497
During the ice age,
442
00:30:00,508 --> 00:30:06,178
Glaciers scraped away at
the top layers of rock.
443
00:30:06,255 --> 00:30:09,673
When the ice retreated,
sea levels rose,
444
00:30:09,683 --> 00:30:15,679
And pounding waves wore
away at more rock.
445
00:30:15,689 --> 00:30:17,856
Variations in the
rate of cooling
446
00:30:18,067 --> 00:30:24,688
Produced the honeycomb-like
monument that stands today.
447
00:30:24,698 --> 00:30:28,108
Columns can reach 39 feet tall.
448
00:30:28,118 --> 00:30:30,944
While the solid lava
deposits in the cliffs
449
00:30:30,955 --> 00:30:33,914
Measure more than
90 feet thick.
450
00:30:41,707 --> 00:30:47,219
High seas pound the rocks
of the giant's causeway.
451
00:30:47,296 --> 00:30:51,464
Ireland is known for
its volatile weather,
452
00:30:51,475 --> 00:30:53,725
And here on the
north-east coast,
453
00:30:53,802 --> 00:30:58,146
Sea mist can roll in quickly.
454
00:30:58,223 --> 00:31:01,057
Navigation can be treacherous,
455
00:31:01,068 --> 00:31:05,237
And ships need to
steer clear of the rocks.
456
00:31:10,327 --> 00:31:13,161
The coastline that
surrounds giant's causeway
457
00:31:13,238 --> 00:31:16,582
Has caused many wrecks.
458
00:31:16,658 --> 00:31:21,253
In 1588, more than
1,000 seamen died when a
459
00:31:21,330 --> 00:31:27,250
Spanish military ship loaded
with treasures sank here.
460
00:31:27,261 --> 00:31:29,002
Today, these formations
461
00:31:29,013 --> 00:31:32,598
Also go by the name
spaniard rock.
462
00:31:37,605 --> 00:31:41,982
There are many versions of the
legend of the giant's causeway.
463
00:31:45,613 --> 00:31:49,364
Some say finn
destroyed the bridge he built.
464
00:31:49,441 --> 00:31:53,035
Others say the scottish
giant destroyed it.
465
00:31:53,111 --> 00:31:58,698
But no one disputes why the
legend arose in the first place.
466
00:31:58,709 --> 00:32:01,785
Eighty miles across
the north channel,
467
00:32:01,795 --> 00:32:04,454
On the scottish
island of staffa,
468
00:32:04,465 --> 00:32:06,048
There are basalt columns
469
00:32:06,124 --> 00:32:10,627
Identical to those found
on the giant's causeway.
470
00:32:10,638 --> 00:32:13,972
The columns at staffa are
part of the same lava field
471
00:32:14,099 --> 00:32:16,549
That built the
giant's causeway,
472
00:32:16,560 --> 00:32:21,221
And have fueled its
long-standing legend.
473
00:32:21,231 --> 00:32:26,059
The giant's causeway has been
a tourist draw for 300 years.
474
00:32:26,070 --> 00:32:30,480
More than half a million
people visit each year.
475
00:32:30,491 --> 00:32:34,150
It is the by far the most
popular tourist attraction
476
00:32:34,161 --> 00:32:38,405
In northern ireland.
477
00:32:38,415 --> 00:32:42,000
Geological studies here
have contributed greatly
478
00:32:42,211 --> 00:32:47,005
To our understanding
of basaltic volcanism.
479
00:32:47,082 --> 00:32:49,833
In 1986, the causeway
was declared
480
00:32:49,843 --> 00:32:53,220
A unesco world heritage site.
481
00:32:57,434 --> 00:33:02,178
Today it's owned and managed by
the national trust in the uk,
482
00:33:02,189 --> 00:33:05,524
To protect this iconic
segment of irish heritage
483
00:33:05,600 --> 00:33:08,360
For future generations.
484
00:33:08,437 --> 00:33:10,529
>> when this site was
actually privately owned,
485
00:33:10,605 --> 00:33:12,030
The site was quarried.
486
00:33:12,107 --> 00:33:13,615
There was a serious lot
of stones took off it.
487
00:33:13,692 --> 00:33:15,534
The national trust
bought the site.
488
00:33:15,610 --> 00:33:19,287
When they bought
the site all that stopped.
489
00:33:19,364 --> 00:33:23,783
You know, no more
stones left the site.
490
00:33:23,794 --> 00:33:26,461
>> a good thing, too.
491
00:33:26,538 --> 00:33:28,880
No one wants a giant
at their door
492
00:33:28,957 --> 00:33:32,092
Looking for his stolen rocks.
493
00:33:38,225 --> 00:33:42,302
Some rocks near the causeway,
carved by millions of years
494
00:33:42,312 --> 00:33:49,026
Of erosion, resemble elements
of finn mccool's world:
495
00:33:52,898 --> 00:33:55,866
The chimney stacks,
496
00:34:04,668 --> 00:34:07,335
The organ,
497
00:34:15,504 --> 00:34:20,849
And the giant's boot.
498
00:34:20,926 --> 00:34:23,343
The boot is one of the
most popular features
499
00:34:23,353 --> 00:34:27,597
On the causeway.
500
00:34:27,608 --> 00:34:30,859
Based on the size of the boot,
it's estimated that finn
501
00:34:30,936 --> 00:34:34,613
Would have been
more than 50 feet tall.
502
00:34:34,689 --> 00:34:35,697
>> it's a boot.
503
00:34:35,774 --> 00:34:38,274
You know, it's the
shape of a boot.
504
00:34:38,285 --> 00:34:39,692
I believe it's a boot.
505
00:34:39,703 --> 00:34:42,120
I believe the giant
finn mccool left it there
506
00:34:42,331 --> 00:34:43,705
For us to have a look at.
507
00:34:43,782 --> 00:34:45,448
It's a size 93 and a half.
508
00:34:45,459 --> 00:34:47,292
A geologist would totally
disagree with you.
509
00:34:59,631 --> 00:35:02,641
>> the same period of
extreme volcanic activity
510
00:35:02,717 --> 00:35:06,478
That created the giant's
causeway also gave rise
511
00:35:06,555 --> 00:35:10,649
To slieve gullion
100 miles to the south.
512
00:35:18,826 --> 00:35:20,984
>> slieve gullion is known as
the most mysterious mountain
513
00:35:20,994 --> 00:35:22,485
In ireland.
514
00:35:22,496 --> 00:35:25,413
And it's got lots of myths
and legends associated with it.
515
00:35:25,490 --> 00:35:27,749
And it's the eroded
heart of a volcano.
516
00:35:27,826 --> 00:35:32,754
>> more than 60 million
years ago, volcanic turmoil
far beneath
517
00:35:32,831 --> 00:35:36,758
The surface caused the original
slieve gullion volcano
518
00:35:36,835 --> 00:35:41,504
To collapse into a great
chamber far below.
519
00:35:41,515 --> 00:35:43,339
The magma in this chamber
520
00:35:43,350 --> 00:35:48,428
Slowly cooled to form the
solid granite seen today.
521
00:35:48,438 --> 00:35:52,274
Surrounding the volcano was a
circular fracture in the rocks,
522
00:35:52,350 --> 00:35:55,018
Seven miles in diameter.
523
00:35:55,028 --> 00:35:58,196
Magma rose through this
crack and cooled,
524
00:35:58,273 --> 00:36:00,690
Forming what's known
as a ring dyke,
525
00:36:00,701 --> 00:36:04,619
Leaving a circle of hills
around slieve gullion,
526
00:36:04,696 --> 00:36:09,866
Known today as
the ring of gullion.
527
00:36:09,877 --> 00:36:12,210
The landscape here
has been designated
528
00:36:12,379 --> 00:36:15,630
As an area of
outstanding natural beauty,
529
00:36:15,707 --> 00:36:21,219
And is home to a
vibrant floral community.
530
00:36:21,346 --> 00:36:24,389
>> slieve gullion is
designated as a special
area of conservation.
531
00:36:24,466 --> 00:36:26,716
This heather is
very, very special.
532
00:36:26,727 --> 00:36:29,469
We've got ling heather
and bell heather.
533
00:36:29,479 --> 00:36:32,189
You can still see the lovely
purple shades up the mountain.
534
00:36:44,319 --> 00:36:46,828
>> tales of the irish giant
finn mccool
535
00:36:46,905 --> 00:36:49,831
Dwell in slieve gullion
as well.
536
00:36:57,341 --> 00:36:59,832
The landscape has
ignited the imaginations
537
00:36:59,843 --> 00:37:04,512
Of settlers old and new.
538
00:37:04,589 --> 00:37:06,932
>> people here living nowadays,
they draw inspiration
539
00:37:07,008 --> 00:37:09,092
From the mountain and
those myths and legends
540
00:37:09,102 --> 00:37:11,269
And those characters
in their past.
541
00:37:11,346 --> 00:37:13,855
On a day like today whenever
we do have that low-lying mist,
542
00:37:13,932 --> 00:37:16,858
It's fantastic because we can
see the peaks of the ring dyke
543
00:37:16,935 --> 00:37:18,944
Peeking through all that mist.
544
00:37:19,020 --> 00:37:21,354
You can just imagine whenever
those myths and legends
545
00:37:21,365 --> 00:37:24,282
And those characters in the
past were roaming around here
546
00:37:24,451 --> 00:37:26,109
And it's very easy to see
why this is one of the most
547
00:37:26,119 --> 00:37:28,528
Mystical mountains in ireland.
548
00:37:28,538 --> 00:37:31,790
>> the legend of finn mccool
extends from slieve gullion
549
00:37:31,866 --> 00:37:36,670
In the east, all the way west
to the slieve league cliffs.
550
00:37:40,384 --> 00:37:41,708
At the base of the cliffs,
551
00:37:41,718 --> 00:37:45,303
In the grey mountains
of county donegal,
552
00:37:45,514 --> 00:37:49,799
Two sea stacks - the
giant's desk and chair -
553
00:37:49,810 --> 00:37:52,385
Are said to be
where finn mccool
554
00:37:52,396 --> 00:37:58,900
Drew up his plans for
the giant's causeway.
555
00:37:58,977 --> 00:38:01,403
But there's more here
than the office furniture
556
00:38:01,479 --> 00:38:07,150
Of an angry giant.
557
00:38:07,160 --> 00:38:08,410
>> the big significance
here I suppose
558
00:38:08,486 --> 00:38:10,486
Is the sheer size
in the landscape.
559
00:38:10,497 --> 00:38:13,498
So it's notable from the
sea, so early mariners,
560
00:38:13,575 --> 00:38:17,335
People coming to ireland over
the times, would've seen it.
561
00:38:17,412 --> 00:38:21,339
It would've been a
landmark for them.
562
00:38:21,416 --> 00:38:23,842
>> the majestic cliffs
of slieve league
563
00:38:23,918 --> 00:38:29,422
Rise nearly 2,000 feet
above the ocean.
564
00:38:29,433 --> 00:38:32,767
They are the highest
sea cliffs in ireland,
565
00:38:32,844 --> 00:38:37,480
Twice as tall as the more
famous cliffs of moher.
566
00:38:40,110 --> 00:38:44,029
Their origins are
just as remarkable.
567
00:38:44,105 --> 00:38:47,198
>> about 200 million years ago,
ourselves and the appalachians
568
00:38:47,275 --> 00:38:50,943
Were all the one mountain system
way down south of the equator
569
00:38:50,954 --> 00:38:53,371
And over time the whole
system moved up north
570
00:38:53,448 --> 00:38:55,790
And divided apart.
571
00:39:01,706 --> 00:39:04,382
>> slieve league has been
recognized as the official
572
00:39:04,459 --> 00:39:09,045
Landfall for the international
appalachian trail.
573
00:39:09,056 --> 00:39:11,222
These mountains are
the trans-atlantic,
574
00:39:11,299 --> 00:39:14,050
Geologic extension
of north america's
575
00:39:14,061 --> 00:39:18,396
Appalachian mountains.
576
00:39:18,523 --> 00:39:20,723
The rock here has
been directly linked
577
00:39:20,734 --> 00:39:24,736
To that on the east
coast of canada.
578
00:39:27,315 --> 00:39:29,232
>> our nearest neighbor
in those times
579
00:39:29,242 --> 00:39:30,733
Would've been newfoundland.
580
00:39:30,744 --> 00:39:32,410
So you can see where
the irish connection
581
00:39:32,537 --> 00:39:35,663
Was in newfoundland even way
before the people were there.
582
00:39:39,994 --> 00:39:45,673
>> the crashing waves below
seem quiet from so high above.
583
00:39:47,636 --> 00:39:51,262
And although slieve league's
steep face plunges straight into
584
00:39:51,339 --> 00:39:55,433
The powerful atlantic,
erosion by waves has played
585
00:39:55,644 --> 00:40:00,146
Only a minor role in
shaping this part of the coast.
586
00:40:06,104 --> 00:40:12,450
Slieve league was carved
not by water, but by glaciers.
587
00:40:12,661 --> 00:40:14,777
>> this whole area here
would've been under ice
588
00:40:14,788 --> 00:40:20,458
Maybe 70 to 100 meters deep
and the ice has ground out
589
00:40:20,627 --> 00:40:24,045
And very much
shaped the cliffs.
590
00:40:24,122 --> 00:40:27,707
We had thousands of years
of ice here up until about
591
00:40:27,717 --> 00:40:30,468
10,000 years ago at
the end of the last ice age.
592
00:40:30,679 --> 00:40:32,470
But right behind me here
down in the cove there
593
00:40:32,547 --> 00:40:34,222
With the giant's
desk and chair,
594
00:40:34,299 --> 00:40:36,975
Was a glacier there
for thousands of years.
595
00:40:49,698 --> 00:40:53,900
>> research suggests that
the ice sheet that covered
slieve league
596
00:40:53,910 --> 00:40:57,912
May have been
nearly half a mile thick.
597
00:40:57,989 --> 00:41:03,668
Deep enough to
encase the summit.
598
00:41:03,745 --> 00:41:06,754
The enormous weight of
that volume of ice would have
599
00:41:06,831 --> 00:41:11,509
Depressed the earth's
surface by as much as 650 feet.
600
00:41:16,090 --> 00:41:21,019
Slieve league's dizzying slopes
rise to the ridges and trails
601
00:41:21,095 --> 00:41:26,733
Used by hikers to traverse
this natural wonder.
602
00:41:30,271 --> 00:41:35,775
Leading to the summit is a trail
known as one man's pass.
603
00:41:35,785 --> 00:41:38,870
It is an arete, a
knife-like ridge of rock
604
00:41:38,947 --> 00:41:43,583
Formed when two glaciers erode
parallel, opposing valleys.
605
00:41:49,216 --> 00:41:53,551
It offers breathtaking views
for hikers with good balance
606
00:41:53,628 --> 00:41:57,555
And nerves of steel.
607
00:41:57,766 --> 00:41:59,807
>> most people can cross
the one man's pass.
608
00:41:59,884 --> 00:42:02,894
But it's a section of the trail
that's about a half mile long
609
00:42:02,971 --> 00:42:05,221
That's only two foot wide.
610
00:42:05,232 --> 00:42:09,067
You've a drop down to the ocean
of over 1800 feet.
611
00:42:09,143 --> 00:42:10,318
I always lean the other way,
612
00:42:10,395 --> 00:42:15,231
It's only 1400 feet
down to a wee lake.
613
00:42:15,242 --> 00:42:17,817
Some people will crawl it,
some people will walk it,
614
00:42:17,827 --> 00:42:19,827
Some people will pray on it.
615
00:42:25,794 --> 00:42:29,078
>> the otherworldly majesty
of slieve league
616
00:42:29,089 --> 00:42:33,091
Has drawn and inspired
giants and mere mortals alike
617
00:42:33,167 --> 00:42:37,220
Over hundreds if not
thousands of years.
618
00:42:41,184 --> 00:42:46,771
Some seek to connect
with a higher power.
619
00:42:46,848 --> 00:42:48,439
>> there's a christian
pilgrimage going on here
620
00:42:48,516 --> 00:42:50,683
For almost 2000 years,
621
00:42:50,694 --> 00:42:52,860
Since the early christian
monks settled up here.
622
00:42:52,937 --> 00:42:55,613
And these pilgrimages we
know go back pre-christian
623
00:42:55,824 --> 00:42:58,116
And archaeological
evidence will show us
624
00:42:58,192 --> 00:42:59,951
That there was people living,
or doing things
625
00:43:00,028 --> 00:43:02,662
On these mountains
way before christianity.
626
00:43:16,136 --> 00:43:20,221
>> the cliffs are also home to
military installations built
627
00:43:20,298 --> 00:43:24,309
To watch over the possible
trespasses of a french emperor.
628
00:43:27,472 --> 00:43:29,480
>> these signal towers,
the british built them here
629
00:43:29,557 --> 00:43:33,309
From 1803 until
about 1806 or 1807.
630
00:43:33,320 --> 00:43:34,652
And they built a
whole series of these
631
00:43:34,729 --> 00:43:37,480
Right around the
coast of ireland.
632
00:43:37,490 --> 00:43:39,815
They were watching out
for napoleon.
633
00:43:39,826 --> 00:43:42,660
The british were afraid he would
invade ireland, arm the irish,
634
00:43:42,787 --> 00:43:45,246
And then maybe chase
them out and invade britain.
635
00:43:45,323 --> 00:43:47,665
So this system was set up -
636
00:43:47,792 --> 00:43:50,159
An early watch system
basically is what they are.
637
00:43:50,170 --> 00:43:52,629
And they're
still standing today.
638
00:44:18,907 --> 00:44:22,700
>> shaped by glaciers,
the cliffs of slieve league
639
00:44:22,777 --> 00:44:27,413
Are a breathtaking example
of ireland's natural beauty.
640
00:44:30,785 --> 00:44:33,202
>> you couldn't be
closer to nature than here.
641
00:44:33,213 --> 00:44:37,382
You have the ocean,
the sky, the light,
642
00:44:37,458 --> 00:44:39,542
The wind even in your hair.
643
00:44:39,552 --> 00:44:42,053
You can just get lost in nature.
644
00:44:42,130 --> 00:44:48,476
You couldn't be
in a better place.
645
00:44:48,553 --> 00:44:54,357
>> ireland: Small in size,
but epic in wonder.
646
00:44:57,821 --> 00:45:05,493
Its vistas and wild spaces are
fit for ancient, mythical heroes
647
00:45:05,570 --> 00:45:12,333
And 21st-century explorers.
648
00:45:12,410 --> 00:45:15,336
It is surrounded by the sea,
649
00:45:15,413 --> 00:45:20,416
Yet tied to other lands
far across the ocean.
650
00:45:20,427 --> 00:45:27,181
Here, rock and water are
locked in constant struggle,
651
00:45:27,258 --> 00:45:30,768
Keeping the earth
in a state of flux,
652
00:45:30,845 --> 00:45:36,182
Ensuring that nothing
is set in stone forever.
653
00:45:36,192 --> 00:45:43,022
Ireland's mountains and cliffs,
its valleys and lakes,
654
00:45:43,032 --> 00:45:49,036
Will continue to rise and fall
with the passage of time
655
00:45:49,113 --> 00:45:53,833
On a scale far beyond the
realm of mere mortals.
656
00:45:59,040 --> 00:46:09,048
♪♪
657
00:46:09,058 --> 00:46:14,637
♪♪
658
00:46:14,647 --> 00:46:22,779
♪♪
59928
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