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1
00:00:03,212 --> 00:00:07,464
Along the west coast
of great britain,
2
00:00:07,541 --> 00:00:11,051
The world's longest
uninterrupted footpath
3
00:00:11,178 --> 00:00:15,180
Forges through more than 800
miles of breathtaking scenery.
4
00:00:16,967 --> 00:00:18,809
>> and you've got this
wonderful sandwich.
5
00:00:18,886 --> 00:00:22,220
On the left you keep the sea
your path in front of you
6
00:00:22,231 --> 00:00:25,557
And to the right you've got
that undulating coastline.
7
00:00:25,568 --> 00:00:28,810
>> from serene golden beaches
8
00:00:28,821 --> 00:00:31,897
To towering limestone cliffs,
9
00:00:31,907 --> 00:00:36,485
The wind and waves shape,
carve and chisel
10
00:00:36,495 --> 00:00:38,737
This majestic landscape.
11
00:00:38,748 --> 00:00:40,238
>> it's the power
of the ocean really
12
00:00:40,249 --> 00:00:42,082
That does most of the work.
13
00:00:42,293 --> 00:00:45,335
Waves around here can get
absolutely massive.
14
00:00:45,412 --> 00:00:49,923
We're talking
15-, 20-meter swells.
15
00:00:50,000 --> 00:00:54,928
>> a coast that reveals
geological mysteries,
16
00:00:55,005 --> 00:00:59,257
Framed by nature's
most beautiful sculptures
17
00:00:59,268 --> 00:01:03,062
And chronicled by centuries
of rich human history.
18
00:01:04,356 --> 00:01:08,942
This is the wild coast of wales.
19
00:01:09,019 --> 00:01:19,119
(♪♪♪)
20
00:01:19,246 --> 00:01:28,962
(♪♪♪)
21
00:01:29,039 --> 00:01:39,139
(♪♪♪)
22
00:01:39,266 --> 00:01:44,103
(♪♪♪)
23
00:01:54,231 --> 00:01:57,816
On the first morning
of November, 1887,
24
00:02:00,654 --> 00:02:04,665
Strong gales whipped up around
the southern tip of wales.
25
00:02:05,918 --> 00:02:08,326
The roiling waters
of the atlantic
26
00:02:08,337 --> 00:02:12,339
Flipped a cargo ship
heavily laden with timber.
27
00:02:14,918 --> 00:02:18,262
Turbulent swells
carried the ship to shore.
28
00:02:20,683 --> 00:02:23,425
>> the ship, the helvetia,
came upon the sands
29
00:02:23,435 --> 00:02:25,185
And got stuck in the sands
30
00:02:25,396 --> 00:02:28,188
And gradually got buried
into the sands as well.
31
00:02:28,399 --> 00:02:30,274
Time and tide wait for no man.
32
00:02:30,350 --> 00:02:32,442
And over the many,
many decades,
33
00:02:32,519 --> 00:02:34,611
The ship has turned
into a wreck.
34
00:02:34,688 --> 00:02:37,022
I remember as a small child
coming here
35
00:02:37,032 --> 00:02:39,449
And the helvetia,
the ribs of the hull,
36
00:02:39,526 --> 00:02:42,911
Looking like an ancient dinosaur
coming from the depths of time.
37
00:02:45,374 --> 00:02:48,533
>> today, the remains
of the helvetia
38
00:02:48,544 --> 00:02:51,670
Stand withered by the
restless waters of the bay.
39
00:02:53,123 --> 00:02:56,958
The wreck continues to be buried
further in the sand
40
00:02:56,969 --> 00:02:59,178
With every passing tide.
41
00:03:01,056 --> 00:03:04,308
>> after all these decades,
it's just the prow standing,
42
00:03:04,384 --> 00:03:06,059
Making a last call,
43
00:03:06,136 --> 00:03:09,304
Before that too is buried
beneath the sands forever.
44
00:03:09,315 --> 00:03:20,240
(♪♪♪)
45
00:03:20,317 --> 00:03:23,318
>> the helvetia's cargo,
46
00:03:23,329 --> 00:03:26,321
More than 500 tons of timber,
47
00:03:26,332 --> 00:03:29,583
Was collected from the beach
48
00:03:29,660 --> 00:03:33,912
And sold at auction
for a bargain price.
49
00:03:33,923 --> 00:03:36,340
>> in fact it's said
there are very few houses
50
00:03:36,416 --> 00:03:39,084
And barns left in the area
of the gower
51
00:03:39,094 --> 00:03:41,345
That don't have
some sort of wood or beams
52
00:03:41,421 --> 00:03:44,014
From the wreck of the helvetia.
53
00:03:45,517 --> 00:03:49,519
>> more than 250 ships
have wrecked along this coast.
54
00:03:54,351 --> 00:03:57,277
The treacherous winds
and hostile waters
55
00:03:57,354 --> 00:04:00,447
That sealed the fate
of the helvetia
56
00:04:00,524 --> 00:04:03,283
Also sculpted
the stunning scenery
57
00:04:03,494 --> 00:04:07,454
Along this wild coastline.
58
00:04:07,531 --> 00:04:10,958
Wales is home to the world's
longest coastal footpath.
59
00:04:13,796 --> 00:04:18,131
An 800-mile journey
that many begin here
60
00:04:18,208 --> 00:04:20,050
On the gower peninsula.
61
00:04:22,513 --> 00:04:27,307
The gower projects westward
into the bristol channel,
62
00:04:27,476 --> 00:04:31,478
A major inlet that separates
south wales from England.
63
00:04:35,150 --> 00:04:38,143
Rhossili bay
stretches across three miles
64
00:04:38,153 --> 00:04:40,570
Of the gower's
south-western tip.
65
00:04:42,574 --> 00:04:45,659
Rimmed with sheer limestone,
66
00:04:45,736 --> 00:04:50,163
Topped with brilliant
green grass,
67
00:04:50,240 --> 00:04:52,407
Rhossili bay was designated
68
00:04:52,418 --> 00:04:55,335
As the united kingdom's
first area
69
00:04:55,462 --> 00:04:58,755
Of outstanding natural beauty.
70
00:04:58,832 --> 00:05:03,427
(winds blowing
and waves crashing)
71
00:05:03,503 --> 00:05:06,346
The sands of rhossili bay
72
00:05:06,557 --> 00:05:09,433
Lie between
two limestone outcrops.
73
00:05:11,562 --> 00:05:14,855
These form a set of arms
that hug the bay.
74
00:05:16,600 --> 00:05:19,943
Nestled between
these hard limestone arms
75
00:05:20,020 --> 00:05:22,854
Is softer sandstone.
76
00:05:22,865 --> 00:05:27,784
Tides erode the sandstone
to form the hollow of the bay.
77
00:05:27,861 --> 00:05:31,029
>> all the tides around
the gower peninsula
78
00:05:31,040 --> 00:05:33,957
Are influenced of course
by the severn estuary,
79
00:05:34,034 --> 00:05:37,878
So it has a dramatic effect
on the landscape.
80
00:05:37,954 --> 00:05:41,506
>> the river severn is the
longest river in great britain.
81
00:05:43,126 --> 00:05:46,711
Its estuary empties
into the bristol channel,
82
00:05:46,722 --> 00:05:49,389
Which opens
into the north atlantic ocean.
83
00:05:51,060 --> 00:05:53,218
The tides in the severn estuary
84
00:05:53,228 --> 00:05:56,438
Rise and fall
by more than 45 feet.
85
00:05:57,974 --> 00:06:02,069
It is the world's
second-highest tidal range,
86
00:06:02,145 --> 00:06:05,405
Exceeded only by canada's
bay of fundy.
87
00:06:09,578 --> 00:06:11,820
As the tidewaters
of the atlantic
88
00:06:11,830 --> 00:06:15,082
Surge through
the bristol channel,
89
00:06:15,158 --> 00:06:18,377
The sea pummels
the gower peninsula.
90
00:06:20,923 --> 00:06:25,759
Over time, these tides
sculpt coves and bays -
91
00:06:25,836 --> 00:06:28,178
Rugged, yet beautiful.
92
00:06:33,009 --> 00:06:36,094
In the 18th century,
93
00:06:36,105 --> 00:06:39,856
The hidden coves and bays
of the gower peninsula
94
00:06:39,933 --> 00:06:42,692
Were ideal nooks
for smuggling goods.
95
00:06:44,613 --> 00:06:47,772
Items like alcohol, tobacco
and tea
96
00:06:47,783 --> 00:06:51,118
Were snuck into wales tax-free
97
00:06:51,194 --> 00:06:53,620
And sold for bargain prices.
98
00:06:57,960 --> 00:07:01,294
Smuggling was so widespread
along the gower,
99
00:07:01,371 --> 00:07:05,465
Even the clergy
turned a blind eye.
100
00:07:05,592 --> 00:07:07,292
Smuggled goods were stored
101
00:07:07,302 --> 00:07:11,721
Behind the old rectory
of rhossili.
102
00:07:11,798 --> 00:07:13,965
An operation that surely
103
00:07:13,976 --> 00:07:17,644
Could not have gone unnoticed
by the rector.
104
00:07:17,721 --> 00:07:20,147
>> now the solitary white house
you can see behind me
105
00:07:20,223 --> 00:07:21,731
Is the old rectory.
106
00:07:21,808 --> 00:07:23,650
It was the house
where the priest
107
00:07:23,727 --> 00:07:26,987
Or the vicar of the parish
of rhossili would live
108
00:07:27,063 --> 00:07:30,449
And it was situated close by
to the church of rhossili.
109
00:07:36,239 --> 00:07:39,324
>> the old rectory,
you think stands alone.
110
00:07:39,334 --> 00:07:41,659
But if you take yourself back
hundreds of years,
111
00:07:41,670 --> 00:07:43,253
The village actually
was down there.
112
00:07:43,330 --> 00:07:44,671
There were houses down there.
113
00:07:44,748 --> 00:07:46,923
And they were brought up
on the top of the cliff
114
00:07:47,000 --> 00:07:49,509
Because of this
great sand inundation.
115
00:07:52,264 --> 00:07:56,674
>> during the 13th century,
a change in tidal currents
116
00:07:56,685 --> 00:08:00,094
Unleashed wind and rain
so powerful
117
00:08:00,105 --> 00:08:03,607
Entire villages along
the southern coast of wales
118
00:08:03,683 --> 00:08:05,817
Were buried under sand.
119
00:08:07,696 --> 00:08:08,945
>> in gower in particular,
120
00:08:09,022 --> 00:08:11,105
We have this raised plateau
of limestone shelf
121
00:08:11,116 --> 00:08:12,365
Where the sand just packed in
122
00:08:12,442 --> 00:08:16,277
And made these
wonderful beaches.
123
00:08:16,288 --> 00:08:19,289
>> the old village of rhossili
sat at the foothills
124
00:08:19,366 --> 00:08:22,867
Of this limestone shelf.
125
00:08:22,878 --> 00:08:26,505
The old rectory
is the last surviving structure.
126
00:08:28,675 --> 00:08:31,292
>> the rest of the village
of rhossili is disappeared
127
00:08:31,303 --> 00:08:32,969
Underneath the sands.
128
00:08:33,046 --> 00:08:35,797
Again, becoming a victim
of the tides
129
00:08:35,807 --> 00:08:40,185
That are always sweeping against
the shores here at rhossili.
130
00:08:41,471 --> 00:08:44,806
>> the old rectory
has since been renovated.
131
00:08:44,816 --> 00:08:49,060
Today, it is one of the region's
most sought-after lodgings
132
00:08:49,071 --> 00:08:52,531
With a waiting list
longer than three years.
133
00:08:57,737 --> 00:08:59,162
>> now whenever
you come to wales,
134
00:08:59,239 --> 00:09:01,239
The one thing that you can't
help mentioning, of course,
135
00:09:01,250 --> 00:09:03,208
Are our woolly friends,
the sheep.
136
00:09:07,414 --> 00:09:10,415
Down the gower there's a lot of
what we call "common land",
137
00:09:10,425 --> 00:09:13,418
Where it's land that goes back
to medieval times
138
00:09:13,428 --> 00:09:16,221
Which is used communally
by all the people around here.
139
00:09:20,185 --> 00:09:21,601
People always say,
140
00:09:21,678 --> 00:09:24,354
Well, how does a farmer know
which sheep is which?
141
00:09:24,431 --> 00:09:26,848
The ownership of the sheep
are indicated
142
00:09:26,858 --> 00:09:29,693
By little tags that the sheep
have on their ears.
143
00:09:31,363 --> 00:09:33,113
Now you see the paint
on the sheep
144
00:09:33,189 --> 00:09:35,282
But that indicates
whether the sheep have had
145
00:09:35,358 --> 00:09:38,118
Certain inoculations
or injections.
146
00:09:41,707 --> 00:09:44,207
The sheep first came over
with those ancient celtic people
147
00:09:44,284 --> 00:09:46,960
About 500 years bc.
148
00:09:47,037 --> 00:09:49,796
They are naturally
a mediterranean animal
149
00:09:49,873 --> 00:09:52,290
But we find that they live,
thrive, and survive
150
00:09:52,301 --> 00:09:55,051
Not only in the farmlands
but in the mountain regions,
151
00:09:55,128 --> 00:09:58,888
The heathlands, the moorlands
and of course the coastal areas.
152
00:10:02,769 --> 00:10:06,313
Now in wales we've got a human
population of about 3.6 million
153
00:10:06,389 --> 00:10:09,140
But we're vastly outnumbered
by the sheep.
154
00:10:09,151 --> 00:10:11,818
At any time of year, there are
at least 15 million sheep
155
00:10:11,895 --> 00:10:13,153
Altogether in wales.
156
00:10:13,229 --> 00:10:15,614
So we've got about
five each for everybody.
157
00:10:20,320 --> 00:10:23,488
>> on the southern tip
of rhossili bay,
158
00:10:23,498 --> 00:10:28,084
A mile-long stretch of land
snakes out to sea
159
00:10:28,161 --> 00:10:31,087
Marking the most westerly tip
of the gower.
160
00:10:36,345 --> 00:10:40,513
The rocky bluff dips down
before rearing its head,
161
00:10:40,590 --> 00:10:45,018
150 feet out of the water.
162
00:10:46,930 --> 00:10:48,647
This is worm's head.
163
00:10:51,026 --> 00:10:54,944
>> now, legend surrounds
this worm's head.
164
00:10:55,021 --> 00:10:58,189
The name worm's head
comes from "wurm's head",
165
00:10:58,200 --> 00:11:01,859
A wurm being a serpent
or a dragon
166
00:11:01,870 --> 00:11:04,529
That used to look out
onto the horizon of the sea
167
00:11:04,539 --> 00:11:07,782
To guard the shore
against any evil spirits
168
00:11:07,793 --> 00:11:09,042
That might want to come in
169
00:11:09,119 --> 00:11:11,878
And corrupt the people
that lived here.
170
00:11:13,548 --> 00:11:17,125
>> twice a day,
with the turn of the tide,
171
00:11:17,135 --> 00:11:20,220
Worm's head becomes an island
172
00:11:20,296 --> 00:11:22,931
Cut off
from rhossili's coastline.
173
00:11:26,970 --> 00:11:30,480
A causeway connects
the two landmasses
174
00:11:30,557 --> 00:11:34,192
But it's only exposed
for just a few hours at a time.
175
00:11:38,148 --> 00:11:39,981
>> if you are feeling
a bit intrepid,
176
00:11:39,991 --> 00:11:41,491
You can actually walk yourself
177
00:11:41,568 --> 00:11:45,236
Out to the furthest-most tip
of worm's head.
178
00:11:45,247 --> 00:11:47,831
You've only really got
a four-hour window
179
00:11:47,907 --> 00:11:49,499
In which to get
through the causeway,
180
00:11:49,576 --> 00:11:51,418
Onto worm's head itself
181
00:11:51,494 --> 00:11:53,837
And then back safely
to shore as well.
182
00:11:53,913 --> 00:11:56,589
If you don't,
well, sit down and relax
183
00:11:56,666 --> 00:11:58,758
Because you'll have at least
a 6-hour wait
184
00:11:58,835 --> 00:12:02,387
Before you're able to return
back to the shore.
185
00:12:04,850 --> 00:12:08,727
(winds blowing
and waves crashing)
186
00:12:10,105 --> 00:12:14,107
Further up the coast,
water packs a greater punch.
187
00:12:16,528 --> 00:12:19,854
>> waves around here
can get absolutely massive.
188
00:12:19,865 --> 00:12:24,117
We're talking
15, 20-meter swells.
189
00:12:29,282 --> 00:12:31,541
Out on the open ocean, they can
be reasonably frightening
190
00:12:31,618 --> 00:12:33,376
But as they get
into shallow water
191
00:12:33,453 --> 00:12:36,287
The wave height
builds up even more
192
00:12:36,298 --> 00:12:38,456
And the front of the wave
topples over
193
00:12:38,467 --> 00:12:41,468
And that's when
a lot of this erosion happens.
194
00:12:41,544 --> 00:12:43,636
It's the sheer force
of those breaking waves
195
00:12:43,713 --> 00:12:45,546
As they hit the cliffs.
196
00:12:45,557 --> 00:12:55,565
(♪♪♪)
197
00:12:55,642 --> 00:13:00,570
(♪♪♪)
198
00:13:07,987 --> 00:13:10,571
>> along the south of wales,
199
00:13:10,582 --> 00:13:12,573
Waves that have
powered their way
200
00:13:12,584 --> 00:13:16,002
Across the full expanse
of the north atlantic ocean,
201
00:13:16,079 --> 00:13:18,838
Come crashing
into the sheer cliffs
202
00:13:19,049 --> 00:13:22,425
Of the pembrokeshire coast.
203
00:13:22,502 --> 00:13:26,930
A coastline that twists
and turns west from the gower
204
00:13:27,006 --> 00:13:30,809
Through 186 miles of west wales.
205
00:13:32,521 --> 00:13:36,856
A thick sheet of limestone
guards its western tip,
206
00:13:37,025 --> 00:13:39,108
The castlemartin peninsula.
207
00:13:40,612 --> 00:13:43,029
Here, the power of the waves
208
00:13:43,106 --> 00:13:45,281
Has carved one
of the welsh coast's
209
00:13:45,358 --> 00:13:48,076
Most iconic natural sculptures.
210
00:13:51,447 --> 00:13:56,292
A stone arch juts 65 feet
out to sea
211
00:13:56,369 --> 00:14:00,880
And rises more than 60 feet
above the water,
212
00:14:00,957 --> 00:14:04,467
Clinging to the coast
of castlemartin,
213
00:14:04,544 --> 00:14:07,846
This is the
green bridge of wales.
214
00:14:15,313 --> 00:14:18,723
Natural arches like this
begin to take shape
215
00:14:18,733 --> 00:14:22,902
When waves hitting both sides
of the limestone headland
216
00:14:23,071 --> 00:14:25,405
Carve small caves back to back.
217
00:14:27,817 --> 00:14:31,578
Eventually, water breaks through
the dividing wall
218
00:14:31,654 --> 00:14:34,155
And pierces through
the weaker rock
219
00:14:34,165 --> 00:14:37,491
Connecting the two caves.
220
00:14:37,502 --> 00:14:40,962
Over time, this hole widens
through erosion.
221
00:14:45,343 --> 00:14:48,595
The result is a natural arch,
222
00:14:48,671 --> 00:14:52,506
One of nature's most beautifully
engineered structures.
223
00:14:52,517 --> 00:15:05,028
(♪♪♪)
224
00:15:05,104 --> 00:15:08,522
Someday the forces
that created this arch
225
00:15:08,533 --> 00:15:10,158
Will also destroy it.
226
00:15:16,124 --> 00:15:18,958
These sea stacks
are the supporting pillars
227
00:15:19,085 --> 00:15:21,085
Of what was once an arch.
228
00:15:23,206 --> 00:15:25,924
Each is taller
than a 10-storey building.
229
00:15:28,461 --> 00:15:33,139
And represents the final stages
of maritime cliff erosion.
230
00:15:36,311 --> 00:15:40,396
Over time, beating waves
isolate the rock
231
00:15:40,473 --> 00:15:42,148
From the adjoining cliff.
232
00:15:45,395 --> 00:15:47,403
Millions of years ago,
233
00:15:47,480 --> 00:15:49,989
This scene would have
looked similar
234
00:15:50,200 --> 00:15:52,033
To the green bridge of wales.
235
00:15:59,575 --> 00:16:03,336
Eventually, the sea will also
undermine these stacks
236
00:16:04,664 --> 00:16:07,256
And the soaring pedestals
of stone
237
00:16:07,333 --> 00:16:10,677
Will become mere stumps.
238
00:16:14,173 --> 00:16:17,100
As these striking features
wash away,
239
00:16:17,176 --> 00:16:19,227
New ones take shape.
240
00:16:28,363 --> 00:16:32,031
Farther up the coast is an abyss
241
00:16:32,108 --> 00:16:35,368
Nearly 150 feet deep,
242
00:16:35,445 --> 00:16:38,246
More than 160 feet across.
243
00:16:40,616 --> 00:16:43,292
Large enough to engulf
the white house.
244
00:16:45,296 --> 00:16:49,424
This is the devil's cauldron.
245
00:16:51,136 --> 00:16:55,722
An imposing crater formed by the
collapse of several blowholes.
246
00:17:02,138 --> 00:17:06,807
A blowhole appears when water
erodes weaker sections of rock
247
00:17:06,818 --> 00:17:08,776
To create a sea cave.
248
00:17:10,480 --> 00:17:13,230
As waves move in and out,
249
00:17:13,241 --> 00:17:16,576
Water pressure builds
inside the cave
250
00:17:16,652 --> 00:17:20,571
And wears away the rock.
251
00:17:20,582 --> 00:17:23,750
Eventually, a narrow shaft forms
252
00:17:23,826 --> 00:17:27,086
From the sea cave
up to the cliff top
253
00:17:27,163 --> 00:17:30,548
Releasing the surging water
through a jet spray.
254
00:17:32,761 --> 00:17:35,762
Several of these blowholes
formed in this cliff.
255
00:17:37,757 --> 00:17:42,685
As powerful waves continued to
erode weaker sections of rock,
256
00:17:42,762 --> 00:17:47,065
The blowholes collapsed
creating a much wider shaft.
257
00:17:48,193 --> 00:17:50,184
According to geologists,
258
00:17:50,195 --> 00:17:54,605
The mass of rock that collapsed
to produce the cauldron
259
00:17:54,616 --> 00:17:56,866
Is heavier
than the combined weight
260
00:17:56,943 --> 00:18:00,620
Of the three largest
ocean liners ever built.
261
00:18:04,209 --> 00:18:08,961
Over time, the cauldron cliffs
will also break apart
262
00:18:09,038 --> 00:18:13,216
To form a series of stacks
and arches so imposing
263
00:18:13,292 --> 00:18:17,386
They will dwarf the magnificent
green bridge of wales.
264
00:18:19,808 --> 00:18:22,633
>> the coast,
it's always changing.
265
00:18:22,644 --> 00:18:24,218
But it's the power
of the ocean really
266
00:18:24,229 --> 00:18:27,146
That does most of the work.
267
00:18:27,273 --> 00:18:29,982
A walk along
the pembrokeshire coast path,
268
00:18:30,059 --> 00:18:32,151
For me, is always special.
269
00:18:32,362 --> 00:18:34,737
You never know
what you're going to see.
270
00:18:34,814 --> 00:18:37,115
It's always special
because of the geology.
271
00:18:39,485 --> 00:18:43,237
These little guys down here,
272
00:18:43,248 --> 00:18:46,407
They're 24 million years old.
273
00:18:46,417 --> 00:18:49,743
So much, much, much younger
than anything else
274
00:18:49,754 --> 00:18:51,504
In the whole of this area.
275
00:18:51,581 --> 00:18:54,590
So it's a bit of a mystery
what on earth they're doing here
276
00:18:54,667 --> 00:18:57,009
Because they're
so out of context.
277
00:18:57,086 --> 00:19:00,671
And what people think
is that limestone rocks,
278
00:19:00,682 --> 00:19:03,591
Which are the ones
we're surrounded by,
279
00:19:03,601 --> 00:19:07,353
Are very, very prone
to being eaten away by water.
280
00:19:07,430 --> 00:19:10,523
You get lots of cracks,
lots of fissures.
281
00:19:10,600 --> 00:19:14,018
And so when these rocks
were already quite old,
282
00:19:14,028 --> 00:19:16,195
There were little streams
running down
283
00:19:16,322 --> 00:19:19,365
Through cracks in the limestone
through underwater caverns-
284
00:19:19,442 --> 00:19:21,033
Mini caves.
285
00:19:21,110 --> 00:19:23,861
They brought material
down with them
286
00:19:23,872 --> 00:19:27,707
And filled little caves
within the rock with this stuff,
287
00:19:27,783 --> 00:19:31,035
Water went on through,
left the stuff behind.
288
00:19:31,045 --> 00:19:33,880
Now since then,
the limestone has eroded
289
00:19:33,956 --> 00:19:37,216
And has left these rocks
at the surface
290
00:19:37,343 --> 00:19:40,711
So way, way out of time
and way, way out of place.
291
00:19:40,722 --> 00:19:43,964
Consequently,
rather interesting.
292
00:19:43,975 --> 00:19:47,468
>> as the sun descends
on the green bridge of wales
293
00:19:47,478 --> 00:19:49,896
And the day comes to a close,
294
00:19:49,972 --> 00:19:52,306
The restless waters
of the atlantic
295
00:19:52,317 --> 00:19:55,193
Continue to undermine
the cliffs.
296
00:19:58,489 --> 00:20:01,565
The morning sun illuminates
the wrinkled face
297
00:20:01,576 --> 00:20:03,367
Of the pembrokeshire coast.
298
00:20:07,498 --> 00:20:11,334
Every fault, crease and dimple
299
00:20:11,410 --> 00:20:14,378
Is exposed
to the wrath of the sea.
300
00:20:16,666 --> 00:20:20,000
Water eats away
at these weaker pockets
301
00:20:20,011 --> 00:20:22,762
As though taking a bite
out of the coastline.
302
00:20:26,092 --> 00:20:29,352
>> there are so many layers
of the history,
303
00:20:29,428 --> 00:20:31,270
Literally in the rocks,
in the stories,
304
00:20:31,347 --> 00:20:33,013
In the legends and the myths
305
00:20:33,024 --> 00:20:35,599
And actually going
that mile further
306
00:20:35,610 --> 00:20:37,685
And realizing there was
something extra special
307
00:20:37,695 --> 00:20:39,445
Around the corner somewhere.
308
00:20:41,357 --> 00:20:43,691
>> nestled in a hidden cove,
309
00:20:43,701 --> 00:20:48,246
A small medieval church clings
to the rocks of a secluded bay.
310
00:20:49,624 --> 00:20:53,376
An air of mystery
grips the stone structure.
311
00:20:55,797 --> 00:20:59,456
This is st. Govan's chapel.
312
00:20:59,467 --> 00:21:01,300
>> st. Govan's chapel
has got lots and lots
313
00:21:01,469 --> 00:21:04,128
Of little myths and legends.
314
00:21:04,138 --> 00:21:07,723
>> many think the original,
simpler stone structure
315
00:21:07,800 --> 00:21:12,395
Was built as early
as the 6th century
316
00:21:12,471 --> 00:21:15,398
And restored
7 centuries later.
317
00:21:21,072 --> 00:21:24,282
The entire building is smaller
than a one-car garage.
318
00:21:26,569 --> 00:21:29,745
Little is known
about the man who built it.
319
00:21:29,822 --> 00:21:31,330
Some people think
he might have been
320
00:21:31,541 --> 00:21:33,332
One of king arthur's knights.
321
00:21:33,543 --> 00:21:36,994
Nobody's quite sure who he was.
322
00:21:37,005 --> 00:21:40,589
>> some legends say govan
was an irish monk
323
00:21:40,666 --> 00:21:43,509
Sent to educate the people
of this region.
324
00:21:45,421 --> 00:21:48,347
>> st. Govan's chapel
is really interesting.
325
00:21:48,516 --> 00:21:50,090
Many, many centuries ago,
326
00:21:50,101 --> 00:21:53,686
You had this christianity
developing on its own
327
00:21:53,763 --> 00:21:57,940
But through old celtic people's
history as well.
328
00:21:59,444 --> 00:22:03,687
So you find a wonderful tapestry
of the history
329
00:22:03,698 --> 00:22:05,781
Of the christian church
in particular
330
00:22:05,858 --> 00:22:07,325
Literally in the rocks.
331
00:22:10,621 --> 00:22:13,539
>> others say govan was a coward
332
00:22:13,616 --> 00:22:17,001
Who took shelter in these rocks
to hide from pirates.
333
00:22:25,878 --> 00:22:28,387
Further up the welsh coast
334
00:22:28,464 --> 00:22:32,058
On the south western tip
of the dale peninsula,
335
00:22:32,134 --> 00:22:36,053
An isolated bay
called "martin's haven"
336
00:22:36,064 --> 00:22:38,939
Shelters a very
different inhabitant.
337
00:22:40,651 --> 00:22:44,236
>> this time of year's pretty
special for the grey seal,
338
00:22:44,313 --> 00:22:47,239
The atlantic grey seal.
339
00:22:47,316 --> 00:22:49,408
What these seals require
at this time of year
340
00:22:49,485 --> 00:22:52,620
Are safe, secluded beaches.
341
00:22:54,323 --> 00:22:58,376
>> it's October, pupping season
on the coast of wales.
342
00:23:00,838 --> 00:23:04,748
The sheer pembrokeshire cliffs
cradle the bay
343
00:23:04,759 --> 00:23:07,918
Providing the perfect
protected nursery
344
00:23:07,929 --> 00:23:10,388
For these mothers
and their young.
345
00:23:16,521 --> 00:23:20,272
Males patrol the water.
346
00:23:20,349 --> 00:23:23,401
Females and their young
claim the beach.
347
00:23:25,530 --> 00:23:27,029
>> it's a really lovely thing
to see,
348
00:23:27,106 --> 00:23:29,532
These great little seal pups
349
00:23:29,608 --> 00:23:31,867
And their mothers
looking after them.
350
00:23:33,863 --> 00:23:36,196
>> a mother makes her way
up the shore
351
00:23:36,207 --> 00:23:37,957
To feed her newborn.
352
00:23:41,712 --> 00:23:43,963
The pup latches on to suckle.
353
00:23:48,636 --> 00:23:53,714
At birth, most pups weigh
about 35 pounds.
354
00:23:53,724 --> 00:23:57,560
They're easy to identify
by their soft and fluffy coat.
355
00:23:59,388 --> 00:24:01,814
>> they're born with a rather
smart-looking white coat,
356
00:24:01,891 --> 00:24:05,317
Which is, you think slightly odd
for a seal
357
00:24:05,394 --> 00:24:08,061
But a lot of the pebbles
on the beaches around here
358
00:24:08,072 --> 00:24:12,491
Are quite light-colored
so the camouflage is quite good.
359
00:24:14,320 --> 00:24:16,987
>> this baby seal needs
to fatten up
360
00:24:16,998 --> 00:24:19,665
Before getting in the water.
361
00:24:19,742 --> 00:24:23,252
It will spend the next two weeks
latched on to mom.
362
00:24:24,755 --> 00:24:26,997
The mother's milk
is extremely rich
363
00:24:27,008 --> 00:24:30,334
As much as 60 percent fat.
364
00:24:30,344 --> 00:24:33,304
So the pup should have no
problem putting on the weight.
365
00:24:35,925 --> 00:24:40,102
On average, a young seal will
gain about three pounds a day
366
00:24:40,179 --> 00:24:44,106
And can quadruple in size
in just three weeks.
367
00:24:47,778 --> 00:24:50,863
For this pup independence
is around the corner.
368
00:24:53,701 --> 00:24:58,370
It remains on land living off
a reserve of blubber
369
00:24:58,447 --> 00:25:01,499
While waiting for its baby coat
to moult.
370
00:25:03,794 --> 00:25:07,505
The pup rubs against a rock
to speed up the process.
371
00:25:08,883 --> 00:25:12,125
Once the new waterproof fur
grows in,
372
00:25:12,136 --> 00:25:14,711
The young seal
will leave the beach
373
00:25:14,722 --> 00:25:18,057
And learn to fend for itself
in the ocean.
374
00:25:19,802 --> 00:25:22,645
Once the pup is weaned,
375
00:25:22,721 --> 00:25:25,722
Its mother is available
to mate again.
376
00:25:28,736 --> 00:25:31,895
And there's no shortage
of suitors.
377
00:25:31,906 --> 00:25:34,648
A persistent male
patrolling the waters
378
00:25:34,659 --> 00:25:36,784
Decides to make his advance.
379
00:25:40,665 --> 00:25:42,748
He charges up the beach
380
00:25:42,825 --> 00:25:46,126
To chase one of the females
down into the water.
381
00:25:56,097 --> 00:25:58,556
Competition for mates is stiff.
382
00:26:00,676 --> 00:26:03,435
Territorial fighting
is common among males
383
00:26:03,512 --> 00:26:05,229
During breeding season.
384
00:26:08,359 --> 00:26:12,236
Dominant males will mate
with as many as 10 females.
385
00:26:14,189 --> 00:26:18,033
Larger males can grow
more than 7 feet long,
386
00:26:18,110 --> 00:26:20,828
Weighing in at nearly
800 pounds.
387
00:26:22,865 --> 00:26:27,200
Females are smaller,
averaging five to six feet,
388
00:26:27,211 --> 00:26:30,787
Weighing up to 500 pounds.
389
00:26:30,798 --> 00:26:33,382
>> it's quite easy to tell
a difference between the two.
390
00:26:33,459 --> 00:26:36,460
The females,
they tend to be smaller,
391
00:26:36,470 --> 00:26:39,296
Lighter, with speckled fur
392
00:26:39,307 --> 00:26:41,056
But their noses
are really different.
393
00:26:41,133 --> 00:26:44,301
They have almost
a feminine head,
394
00:26:44,312 --> 00:26:48,388
Almost a cat-like head,
quite a narrow nose.
395
00:26:48,399 --> 00:26:52,234
Whereas the male's darker
in appearance, larger animals,
396
00:26:52,311 --> 00:26:56,864
With a much, much thicker nose,
rather more aristocratic nose.
397
00:26:59,869 --> 00:27:02,161
>> the male's long, arched nose
398
00:27:02,237 --> 00:27:05,164
Earned the grey seal
its latin name,
399
00:27:05,240 --> 00:27:07,240
"halichoerus grypus",
400
00:27:07,251 --> 00:27:09,084
"hooked-nose sea pig".
401
00:27:14,425 --> 00:27:17,843
Back on shore,
a playful mother and her young
402
00:27:17,920 --> 00:27:19,845
Lounge on the beach.
403
00:27:21,507 --> 00:27:24,683
Others are busy nursing
404
00:27:24,760 --> 00:27:27,686
Or keeping a close eye
on their pups.
405
00:27:31,433 --> 00:27:33,776
As autumn comes to an end,
406
00:27:33,852 --> 00:27:36,695
The seals will leave
their breeding ground
407
00:27:36,772 --> 00:27:39,940
And make their way home
to skomer island.
408
00:27:42,778 --> 00:27:45,862
Less than a mile
from the pembrokeshire coast
409
00:27:45,873 --> 00:27:49,875
Off the south-western tip
of wales,
410
00:27:49,952 --> 00:27:54,672
Skomer rises more than 200 feet
above the irish sea.
411
00:28:00,629 --> 00:28:04,723
From the mainland, skomer looks
like two separate islands
412
00:28:04,892 --> 00:28:09,728
Connected by a narrow
strip of land.
413
00:28:09,855 --> 00:28:14,141
The power of the sea eats away
at this weaker neck of rock
414
00:28:14,151 --> 00:28:19,154
Nearly slicing the island
in two.
415
00:28:19,231 --> 00:28:23,325
The name skomer originates
from "skalmey",
416
00:28:23,402 --> 00:28:26,912
A norse word
that means "sliced" or "cut".
417
00:28:30,576 --> 00:28:34,503
Skomer island was once connected
to the mainland.
418
00:28:34,580 --> 00:28:36,580
But as the sea broke through,
419
00:28:36,590 --> 00:28:40,718
Skomer and the smaller
midland isle became isolated.
420
00:28:43,338 --> 00:28:48,341
The surface area of skomer
is only one square mile.
421
00:28:48,352 --> 00:28:52,730
It takes just 20 minutes to
cross the entire island by foot.
422
00:28:54,266 --> 00:28:56,358
Despite its small size,
423
00:28:56,435 --> 00:29:00,353
Skomer has the largest
population of manx shearwaters
424
00:29:00,364 --> 00:29:04,107
In the world.
425
00:29:04,118 --> 00:29:07,786
There's approximately
320,000 pairs of that bird
426
00:29:07,955 --> 00:29:09,529
On this island.
427
00:29:09,540 --> 00:29:11,790
But even if you came here in the
middle of the breeding season,
428
00:29:11,867 --> 00:29:13,033
You wouldn't see them
429
00:29:13,043 --> 00:29:14,293
Because they're either
underground
430
00:29:14,369 --> 00:29:17,546
Or out to sea feeding.
431
00:29:17,623 --> 00:29:20,466
The birds that have been feeding
only come back to the island
432
00:29:20,542 --> 00:29:23,293
And swap over with their mate
in the burrow
433
00:29:23,304 --> 00:29:28,140
Under cover of darkness
to avoid seagull predation.
434
00:29:28,217 --> 00:29:31,435
Manx shearwaters live
in underground burrows.
435
00:29:33,222 --> 00:29:35,939
Rabbits and puffins
make similar homes.
436
00:29:38,644 --> 00:29:41,478
As a result, the entire island
437
00:29:41,489 --> 00:29:45,991
Is covered in more than
one million burrows.
438
00:29:46,068 --> 00:29:49,995
One misstep off the footpath
could collapse a home.
439
00:29:54,076 --> 00:29:57,586
Skomer island is a
national nature reserve,
440
00:29:57,663 --> 00:30:00,080
A protected marine habitat
441
00:30:00,090 --> 00:30:03,008
And an area of
special scientific interest.
442
00:30:07,014 --> 00:30:08,430
Beneath the burrows
443
00:30:08,507 --> 00:30:11,508
And the bright green grasses
of the island
444
00:30:11,519 --> 00:30:14,511
Lies an important
geological story.
445
00:30:17,349 --> 00:30:21,610
Distinct ribbons of rock
streak the coastline.
446
00:30:21,687 --> 00:30:24,446
Each one represents
a different era
447
00:30:24,523 --> 00:30:27,449
Of a turbulent geological past.
448
00:30:29,945 --> 00:30:33,872
Layer by layer
these rocks tell the story
449
00:30:34,083 --> 00:30:37,117
Of one of the last
major volcanic events
450
00:30:37,127 --> 00:30:40,128
That formed much of south wales.
451
00:30:42,124 --> 00:30:47,043
More than 400 million years ago,
ancient plates shifted
452
00:30:47,054 --> 00:30:50,547
Causing volcanic eruptions
to pour lava and ash
453
00:30:50,558 --> 00:30:52,891
3,000 feet thick
454
00:30:53,102 --> 00:30:56,395
Over more than 43 miles
of south wales.
455
00:31:00,401 --> 00:31:03,861
Over time,
the lava solidified to stone.
456
00:31:09,151 --> 00:31:13,120
Skomer island is made entirely
of this volcanic rock.
457
00:31:19,086 --> 00:31:21,411
>> these rocks that we're
sitting on right now
458
00:31:21,422 --> 00:31:25,090
Are lava flows
from that volcanic episode
459
00:31:25,167 --> 00:31:28,010
430 million years ago.
460
00:31:28,086 --> 00:31:29,595
That makes skomer special.
461
00:31:29,671 --> 00:31:32,431
It's amazing to think
as you walk around this island
462
00:31:32,507 --> 00:31:36,935
You're walking over products of
a 430-million-year-old volcano.
463
00:31:37,012 --> 00:31:41,773
>> if you were to look at skomer
from the mainland,
464
00:31:41,850 --> 00:31:44,943
You would see a series of
465
00:31:45,112 --> 00:31:47,687
What appear to be layers.
466
00:31:47,698 --> 00:31:52,192
These layers are,
for the most part, lava flows.
467
00:31:52,202 --> 00:31:55,695
Now all of those different types
cooled at different rates
468
00:31:55,706 --> 00:31:59,199
To give you final products
that are subtly different.
469
00:31:59,209 --> 00:32:02,544
But essentially, from the side
you have lava flows
470
00:32:02,621 --> 00:32:04,371
That have been tilted
on their side
471
00:32:04,381 --> 00:32:07,382
So they now dip 40°
to the south.
472
00:32:07,459 --> 00:32:09,459
What caused that tilting?
473
00:32:09,470 --> 00:32:11,970
Well, that's back
to the caledonian mountains
474
00:32:12,097 --> 00:32:13,129
Being created.
475
00:32:13,140 --> 00:32:15,715
When that mountain range
was created,
476
00:32:15,726 --> 00:32:19,386
You had a tremendous bout
of orogenic activity,
477
00:32:19,396 --> 00:32:22,389
That's mountain building
on the earth's surface.
478
00:32:22,399 --> 00:32:26,559
The rocks of skomer were folded
and tilted and buckled
479
00:32:26,570 --> 00:32:28,320
And faulted.
480
00:32:28,397 --> 00:32:31,064
And the skomer lavas
that started out horizontally
481
00:32:31,075 --> 00:32:32,950
Were now tilted.
482
00:32:35,079 --> 00:32:37,320
>> on the south side
of the island,
483
00:32:37,331 --> 00:32:41,208
Geologists have discovered
used artillery...
484
00:32:42,586 --> 00:32:45,161
Not from any manmade conflict
485
00:32:45,172 --> 00:32:48,915
But from deep within
the earth's scalding core.
486
00:32:51,753 --> 00:32:55,839
These are volcanic bombs
fired into the air
487
00:32:55,849 --> 00:32:58,433
From the mouth
of an ancient volcano
488
00:32:58,510 --> 00:33:01,353
More than 400 million years ago.
489
00:33:03,098 --> 00:33:07,025
>> occasionally a volcano will
get very excited and explosive.
490
00:33:07,102 --> 00:33:09,528
It goes through
an explosive phase.
491
00:33:09,604 --> 00:33:13,699
And now it jets out material
called "pyroclastic bombs"
492
00:33:13,775 --> 00:33:16,535
That get shot up
into the atmosphere
493
00:33:16,611 --> 00:33:20,530
And then they're dumped
into the surrounding rocks.
494
00:33:20,541 --> 00:33:22,532
Now if the surrounding rocks
are still soft,
495
00:33:22,543 --> 00:33:25,043
As they would be
if they're new lava flows,
496
00:33:25,212 --> 00:33:27,203
These spherical bombs of rock
497
00:33:27,214 --> 00:33:30,465
Get embedded
into a laval matrix
498
00:33:30,542 --> 00:33:32,217
And you can see those
on the island,
499
00:33:32,294 --> 00:33:35,053
Which is quite an exciting thing
to be able to see.
500
00:33:38,884 --> 00:33:42,552
You've got fantastic rock
formations just in front of you.
501
00:33:42,563 --> 00:33:45,063
You look out
to the atlantic ocean.
502
00:33:45,274 --> 00:33:49,067
So you have a big evasion
and a feeling of space.
503
00:33:49,144 --> 00:33:51,570
And it's some of the
cleanest air on the planet.
504
00:33:51,646 --> 00:33:54,564
Seeing how things
have changed over the time,
505
00:33:54,575 --> 00:33:57,075
But how actually rather a lot
has stayed the same,
506
00:33:57,152 --> 00:33:59,736
The beauty and the seclusion
and the peace and the quiet
507
00:33:59,747 --> 00:34:02,831
Has always been a constant
for skomer.
508
00:34:02,908 --> 00:34:05,751
>> farther up the coast,
the stunning mountains
509
00:34:05,827 --> 00:34:09,337
Of the first designated
national park in wales
510
00:34:09,414 --> 00:34:13,750
Stretch across more than
800 square miles.
511
00:34:13,761 --> 00:34:16,053
This is snowdonia.
512
00:34:19,308 --> 00:34:23,268
A place built by fire
and sculpted by ice.
513
00:34:26,607 --> 00:34:28,690
>> you could argue
that it's an area
514
00:34:28,767 --> 00:34:31,109
Steeped in the history
of fire and ice.
515
00:34:31,320 --> 00:34:33,436
That being
it's the volcanic processes
516
00:34:33,447 --> 00:34:35,947
That's formed the mountains
with tectonic movements
517
00:34:36,024 --> 00:34:40,360
And associated volcanoes
folding the earth's surface
518
00:34:40,370 --> 00:34:42,287
And then the glacial period
519
00:34:42,364 --> 00:34:45,624
Revealing all the wonders
of the geology.
520
00:34:45,700 --> 00:34:48,376
What you'll see around you
is various peaks
521
00:34:48,453 --> 00:34:50,712
Of different sizes and heights
522
00:34:50,789 --> 00:34:54,132
And some deep valleys--
river valleys
523
00:34:54,343 --> 00:34:56,551
And some wide glacial valleys
as well.
524
00:35:01,350 --> 00:35:04,634
>> the star of this landscape
is snowdon,
525
00:35:04,645 --> 00:35:07,104
The highest mountain in wales.
526
00:35:09,483 --> 00:35:14,111
Its peak rests in the clouds
nearly 4,000 feet high.
527
00:35:15,313 --> 00:35:18,740
The sheer rock, unstable gravel
528
00:35:18,817 --> 00:35:21,660
And tricky traverses
of snowdon
529
00:35:21,736 --> 00:35:25,747
Make an ideal training ground
for professional climbers.
530
00:35:25,824 --> 00:35:28,583
Edmund hilary trained
at snowdonia
531
00:35:28,660 --> 00:35:31,411
Before heading to nepal.
532
00:35:31,421 --> 00:35:33,913
And in may of 1953,
533
00:35:33,924 --> 00:35:37,342
He and sherpa, tenzing norgay,
534
00:35:37,419 --> 00:35:40,929
Became the first to successfully
summit mount everest.
535
00:35:44,935 --> 00:35:49,020
Snowdonia's mountains
were born in a fiery collision
536
00:35:49,097 --> 00:35:51,148
Between tectonic plates.
537
00:35:52,767 --> 00:35:54,526
>> about 400 million years ago,
538
00:35:54,603 --> 00:35:56,778
The sediments were being laid
on the ocean floor
539
00:35:56,855 --> 00:35:58,354
So you would have
the ash deposits,
540
00:35:58,365 --> 00:36:00,198
You would have the sand
and silt, mud
541
00:36:00,367 --> 00:36:02,367
Being laid on top of each other.
542
00:36:02,444 --> 00:36:04,953
And as the tectonic plates
were moving,
543
00:36:05,030 --> 00:36:07,622
You would've had one
tectonic plate going
underneath another,
544
00:36:07,699 --> 00:36:09,616
Which created massive folds.
545
00:36:09,626 --> 00:36:11,209
They would have
brought the layers
546
00:36:11,378 --> 00:36:13,211
That would've been on the bottom
of the sea up to the tops.
547
00:36:13,380 --> 00:36:14,787
That's why you got
the best place for fossils
548
00:36:14,798 --> 00:36:16,590
On the tops of the mountains.
549
00:36:19,294 --> 00:36:23,546
>> cwm idwal,
a picturesque glacial valley,
550
00:36:23,557 --> 00:36:26,600
Bears the evidence
of this tectonic shift.
551
00:36:31,556 --> 00:36:35,984
Fossils of marine organisms,
once living on the sea floor,
552
00:36:36,061 --> 00:36:39,979
Lie embedded in the rocks
of cwm idwal.
553
00:36:39,990 --> 00:36:42,657
>> we've got fossils
of these little sea creatures,
554
00:36:42,734 --> 00:36:44,242
They're called "brachiopods".
555
00:36:44,453 --> 00:36:46,402
They would have been shelled
creatures with hard valves
556
00:36:46,413 --> 00:36:48,321
And they would have been living
at the bottom of the sea
557
00:36:48,332 --> 00:36:50,323
About 40 million years ago.
558
00:36:50,334 --> 00:36:52,751
Nowadays they are being found
on the tops of the mountains
559
00:36:52,827 --> 00:36:55,670
And that's due to the
tectonic forces that took place.
560
00:36:57,332 --> 00:37:00,008
>> but these fossils,
once at the top,
561
00:37:00,085 --> 00:37:03,053
Now lie at the base
of cwm idwal.
562
00:37:06,850 --> 00:37:09,226
How did some end up
at the bottom?
563
00:37:11,939 --> 00:37:15,232
It was a puzzle
that perplexed charles darwin.
564
00:37:17,694 --> 00:37:20,528
These boulders
laden with fossils,
565
00:37:20,605 --> 00:37:23,606
Provided some of the
earliest evidence
566
00:37:23,617 --> 00:37:27,869
That this entire landscape
had been carved by ice.
567
00:37:33,201 --> 00:37:37,796
Scientists like darwin were only
just beginning to theorize
568
00:37:37,872 --> 00:37:41,466
That there had once been
a period of immense glaciation.
569
00:37:42,803 --> 00:37:44,636
>> cwm idwal is very important
570
00:37:44,713 --> 00:37:47,630
In terms of its role
in the glacial theory
571
00:37:47,641 --> 00:37:49,808
Or the theory of glaciation.
572
00:37:49,884 --> 00:37:52,477
One of its famous scholars
includes charles darwin
573
00:37:52,554 --> 00:37:54,312
Who visited the area.
574
00:37:54,481 --> 00:37:57,640
The glacial theory relates to
how ice has formed landscapes.
575
00:37:57,651 --> 00:38:00,393
And cwm idwal is a classic
cwm or cirque.
576
00:38:00,404 --> 00:38:02,562
It's a bowl-shaped amphitheater,
577
00:38:02,572 --> 00:38:04,864
Formed when the glacier
moves down the mountain.
578
00:38:07,152 --> 00:38:09,995
>> darwin proposed
that as glaciers move,
579
00:38:10,071 --> 00:38:13,331
They collect rubble
from the top of the mountain.
580
00:38:13,542 --> 00:38:15,992
Then move the rocks
and dirt downhill
581
00:38:16,003 --> 00:38:18,295
And deposit them at the base.
582
00:38:22,584 --> 00:38:27,086
After helping darwin
prove his theory of glaciation,
583
00:38:27,097 --> 00:38:30,598
These rocks earned their name,
584
00:38:30,675 --> 00:38:32,600
"darwin's boulders".
585
00:38:34,596 --> 00:38:38,189
If it wasn't for the glaciers
scraping away the surface,
586
00:38:38,266 --> 00:38:42,101
We would have never found
these fossils.
587
00:38:42,112 --> 00:38:44,362
>> you can see the effect of ice
carving out the rock
588
00:38:44,573 --> 00:38:45,822
All the way down
the valley there.
589
00:38:49,778 --> 00:38:54,122
>> today lakes fill
deep glacial hollows
590
00:38:54,199 --> 00:38:56,958
And waterfalls
spill over rocks
591
00:38:57,035 --> 00:39:00,378
Perched high
above the valley floor.
592
00:39:00,589 --> 00:39:09,462
(♪♪♪)
593
00:39:09,473 --> 00:39:13,391
>> in snowdonia, there's all
kinds of movements of water.
594
00:39:13,468 --> 00:39:16,478
You've got your traditional
runoff which forms streams,
595
00:39:16,554 --> 00:39:18,229
You've got glacial lakes,
596
00:39:18,306 --> 00:39:21,891
You've got waterfalls where the
hard rock hasn't been eroded
597
00:39:21,902 --> 00:39:25,070
And there's a cascade
of water there as well.
598
00:39:30,819 --> 00:39:34,204
>> cattle and sheep graze
in these mountain valleys,
599
00:39:36,157 --> 00:39:39,417
As they have
for thousands of years.
600
00:39:39,628 --> 00:39:51,096
(♪♪♪)
601
00:39:51,172 --> 00:39:55,508
An ancient drover's crossing
constructed with loose stones
602
00:39:55,519 --> 00:39:59,020
Was once used to move livestock.
603
00:39:59,097 --> 00:40:02,515
Now it is dwarfed
by a modern bridge.
604
00:40:02,526 --> 00:40:03,850
>> the people have grown,
605
00:40:03,860 --> 00:40:05,435
They've lived
in these mountains.
606
00:40:05,445 --> 00:40:09,856
And the mountains themselves are
dominant peaks and landscapes
607
00:40:09,866 --> 00:40:13,284
Which help with navigation,
they provide shelter,
608
00:40:13,361 --> 00:40:16,454
They provide different habitats
to graze upon.
609
00:40:16,623 --> 00:40:17,947
But the important part
610
00:40:17,958 --> 00:40:20,542
Are the valleys
between those mountains.
611
00:40:20,618 --> 00:40:23,035
It's where people come,
it's where cultures are shared,
612
00:40:23,046 --> 00:40:25,705
It's where traditions
are shared.
613
00:40:25,715 --> 00:40:29,467
There's thousands of years of
culture that I feel a part of.
614
00:40:29,678 --> 00:40:31,803
I think I'm rooted
in these mountains.
615
00:40:31,880 --> 00:40:34,472
And by standing by the root
of the mountains themselves
616
00:40:34,641 --> 00:40:36,549
And looking at the majesty
of the mountains,
617
00:40:36,560 --> 00:40:39,477
It just give you a sense of awe.
618
00:40:39,604 --> 00:40:48,820
(♪♪♪)
619
00:40:48,897 --> 00:40:53,324
>> farther up the coastal path
at the northern tip of wales,
620
00:40:53,401 --> 00:40:55,318
A rocky headland,
621
00:40:55,328 --> 00:40:58,997
2 miles long
and 1 mile across,
622
00:40:59,073 --> 00:41:02,000
Meets the irish sea.
623
00:41:02,076 --> 00:41:04,669
This is the great orme.
624
00:41:10,001 --> 00:41:14,554
The summit of great orme rises
nearly 700 feet above the water.
625
00:41:18,602 --> 00:41:21,260
>> it's defended
by sheer cliffs,
626
00:41:21,271 --> 00:41:24,147
Which overlook the
surrounding countryside.
627
00:41:26,017 --> 00:41:30,195
>> it is an ideal vantage point
to prepare for a coastal battle.
628
00:41:32,440 --> 00:41:36,609
In 1940,
early in the second world war,
629
00:41:36,620 --> 00:41:40,497
The threat of a german invasion
put great britain on high alert.
630
00:41:41,791 --> 00:41:45,201
The army relocated
its coastal gunnery school
631
00:41:45,212 --> 00:41:49,797
From east coast essex
to the west coast of wales.
632
00:41:49,874 --> 00:41:53,125
The view and the wide mouth
of the bay
633
00:41:53,136 --> 00:41:56,304
Made the great orme
an ideal training ground
634
00:41:56,381 --> 00:41:58,798
For british gunners.
635
00:41:58,808 --> 00:42:01,384
Boats were towed across the bay
636
00:42:01,394 --> 00:42:04,521
And anchored in the distance
for target practice.
637
00:42:05,807 --> 00:42:08,724
By 1942, the gunnery school
638
00:42:08,735 --> 00:42:12,278
Had trained more than
750 servicemen.
639
00:42:17,068 --> 00:42:20,736
Today three
searchlight stations remain.
640
00:42:23,750 --> 00:42:24,916
>> very early on,
people had discovered
641
00:42:24,993 --> 00:42:28,086
That it was a good
vantage point.
642
00:42:28,162 --> 00:42:31,831
You could see what was happening
for miles around,
643
00:42:31,841 --> 00:42:33,416
So I guess
that's one of the things
644
00:42:33,426 --> 00:42:37,720
That attracted people to live
and to make their lives here.
645
00:42:39,933 --> 00:42:44,185
>> by the 19th century, many had
settled on the great orme
646
00:42:44,262 --> 00:42:47,272
To farm the headland.
647
00:42:47,348 --> 00:42:52,184
In 1880, one landowner acquired
several kashmir goats
648
00:42:52,195 --> 00:42:56,281
From northern india
and set them free on his land.
649
00:42:57,951 --> 00:43:01,619
Today these goats
still run wild
650
00:43:01,788 --> 00:43:04,289
And now number in the hundreds.
651
00:43:04,365 --> 00:43:07,950
>> I think the goats are
symbolic of the great orme.
652
00:43:07,961 --> 00:43:12,955
There are feral goats elsewhere
in wales, separate herds
653
00:43:12,966 --> 00:43:15,291
But they're completely different
to the goats here.
654
00:43:15,302 --> 00:43:18,261
This is a particular breed,
kashmir.
655
00:43:19,964 --> 00:43:22,640
>> halfway down the headland,
656
00:43:22,851 --> 00:43:25,143
Steep slopes and narrow ledges
657
00:43:25,219 --> 00:43:29,221
Present an inhospitable
landscape for most.
658
00:43:29,232 --> 00:43:32,483
(goats bleating)
659
00:43:32,560 --> 00:43:36,237
But for these feral goats,
this is home.
660
00:43:38,742 --> 00:43:42,660
For the most part, the scene on
the slopes is quite peaceful.
661
00:43:44,238 --> 00:43:48,491
Many goats rest
along rocky ledges.
662
00:43:48,501 --> 00:43:51,252
Others
delicately nibble the grass
663
00:43:51,329 --> 00:43:54,005
And pick
at the remaining berries.
664
00:43:56,084 --> 00:43:57,508
The dominant males
665
00:43:57,585 --> 00:44:00,386
Have the largest curved horns
in the herd.
666
00:44:02,507 --> 00:44:06,517
The horns are notched
with large ridges.
667
00:44:06,594 --> 00:44:10,346
Each ridge represents
one year of growth,
668
00:44:10,357 --> 00:44:13,650
Making mature males
easy to spot.
669
00:44:16,780 --> 00:44:20,281
These goats are best known
for their silky wool coat.
670
00:44:22,911 --> 00:44:26,195
Soft cashmere wool
first gained popularity
671
00:44:26,206 --> 00:44:28,706
During the reign
of queen victoria
672
00:44:28,833 --> 00:44:32,293
And is still
in high demand today.
673
00:44:32,370 --> 00:44:35,713
>> human history on the
great orme goes back an
awful long way.
674
00:44:35,882 --> 00:44:38,457
Over 500 sites
of historical interest
675
00:44:38,468 --> 00:44:42,211
Have been recorded
just on this small headland.
676
00:44:42,222 --> 00:44:44,931
So it's really rich
in human history.
677
00:44:47,385 --> 00:44:50,728
There are so many reasons
why the great orme is special.
678
00:44:50,855 --> 00:44:52,730
It's hard to quantify, really.
679
00:44:52,941 --> 00:44:56,308
You've got steep drops below you
straight down to the sea,
680
00:44:56,319 --> 00:44:58,403
You've got the sound
of the seabirds,
681
00:44:58,479 --> 00:45:00,738
That feeling of isolation.
682
00:45:00,949 --> 00:45:01,823
It's--
683
00:45:01,899 --> 00:45:04,066
Yeah, it's a magical place.
684
00:45:04,077 --> 00:45:13,334
(♪♪♪)
685
00:45:13,411 --> 00:45:16,996
>> from wide sandy beaches
686
00:45:17,006 --> 00:45:20,758
To towering limestone cliffs,
687
00:45:20,835 --> 00:45:25,337
A journey up the world's
longest coastal footpath
688
00:45:25,348 --> 00:45:29,842
Reveals spectacular landscapes
689
00:45:29,853 --> 00:45:33,095
Carved by the power of water.
690
00:45:33,106 --> 00:45:37,275
Rich marine life
thriving amongst the cliffs.
691
00:45:37,351 --> 00:45:42,021
And a welsh culture rooted
in life overlooking the ocean.
692
00:45:42,031 --> 00:45:45,533
>> the coast of wales draws
this majesty with it.
693
00:45:45,610 --> 00:45:49,537
It's this place where you just
repair and refresh and enjoy.
694
00:45:49,614 --> 00:45:52,874
You'll see plenty of sheep,
you'll see these green hills.
695
00:45:52,950 --> 00:45:57,545
You'll see really mysterious
peaks in the early morning mist.
696
00:45:57,622 --> 00:45:59,797
And I think if anybody
was to come to wales
697
00:45:59,874 --> 00:46:03,459
And spend a majestic 3 months
walking around wales,
698
00:46:03,470 --> 00:46:06,220
They'll leave feeling
a little bit more welsh
699
00:46:06,297 --> 00:46:07,972
Than when they arrived.
700
00:46:08,049 --> 00:46:18,057
(♪♪♪)
701
00:46:18,067 --> 00:46:27,950
(♪♪♪)
61481
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