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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:03,212 --> 00:00:07,464 Along the west coast of great britain, 2 00:00:07,541 --> 00:00:11,051 The world's longest uninterrupted footpath 3 00:00:11,178 --> 00:00:15,180 Forges through more than 800 miles of breathtaking scenery. 4 00:00:16,967 --> 00:00:18,809 >> and you've got this wonderful sandwich. 5 00:00:18,886 --> 00:00:22,220 On the left you keep the sea your path in front of you 6 00:00:22,231 --> 00:00:25,557 And to the right you've got that undulating coastline. 7 00:00:25,568 --> 00:00:28,810 >> from serene golden beaches 8 00:00:28,821 --> 00:00:31,897 To towering limestone cliffs, 9 00:00:31,907 --> 00:00:36,485 The wind and waves shape, carve and chisel 10 00:00:36,495 --> 00:00:38,737 This majestic landscape. 11 00:00:38,748 --> 00:00:40,238 >> it's the power of the ocean really 12 00:00:40,249 --> 00:00:42,082 That does most of the work. 13 00:00:42,293 --> 00:00:45,335 Waves around here can get absolutely massive. 14 00:00:45,412 --> 00:00:49,923 We're talking 15-, 20-meter swells. 15 00:00:50,000 --> 00:00:54,928 >> a coast that reveals geological mysteries, 16 00:00:55,005 --> 00:00:59,257 Framed by nature's most beautiful sculptures 17 00:00:59,268 --> 00:01:03,062 And chronicled by centuries of rich human history. 18 00:01:04,356 --> 00:01:08,942 This is the wild coast of wales. 19 00:01:09,019 --> 00:01:19,119 (♪♪♪) 20 00:01:19,246 --> 00:01:28,962 (♪♪♪) 21 00:01:29,039 --> 00:01:39,139 (♪♪♪) 22 00:01:39,266 --> 00:01:44,103 (♪♪♪) 23 00:01:54,231 --> 00:01:57,816 On the first morning of November, 1887, 24 00:02:00,654 --> 00:02:04,665 Strong gales whipped up around the southern tip of wales. 25 00:02:05,918 --> 00:02:08,326 The roiling waters of the atlantic 26 00:02:08,337 --> 00:02:12,339 Flipped a cargo ship heavily laden with timber. 27 00:02:14,918 --> 00:02:18,262 Turbulent swells carried the ship to shore. 28 00:02:20,683 --> 00:02:23,425 >> the ship, the helvetia, came upon the sands 29 00:02:23,435 --> 00:02:25,185 And got stuck in the sands 30 00:02:25,396 --> 00:02:28,188 And gradually got buried into the sands as well. 31 00:02:28,399 --> 00:02:30,274 Time and tide wait for no man. 32 00:02:30,350 --> 00:02:32,442 And over the many, many decades, 33 00:02:32,519 --> 00:02:34,611 The ship has turned into a wreck. 34 00:02:34,688 --> 00:02:37,022 I remember as a small child coming here 35 00:02:37,032 --> 00:02:39,449 And the helvetia, the ribs of the hull, 36 00:02:39,526 --> 00:02:42,911 Looking like an ancient dinosaur coming from the depths of time. 37 00:02:45,374 --> 00:02:48,533 >> today, the remains of the helvetia 38 00:02:48,544 --> 00:02:51,670 Stand withered by the restless waters of the bay. 39 00:02:53,123 --> 00:02:56,958 The wreck continues to be buried further in the sand 40 00:02:56,969 --> 00:02:59,178 With every passing tide. 41 00:03:01,056 --> 00:03:04,308 >> after all these decades, it's just the prow standing, 42 00:03:04,384 --> 00:03:06,059 Making a last call, 43 00:03:06,136 --> 00:03:09,304 Before that too is buried beneath the sands forever. 44 00:03:09,315 --> 00:03:20,240 (♪♪♪) 45 00:03:20,317 --> 00:03:23,318 >> the helvetia's cargo, 46 00:03:23,329 --> 00:03:26,321 More than 500 tons of timber, 47 00:03:26,332 --> 00:03:29,583 Was collected from the beach 48 00:03:29,660 --> 00:03:33,912 And sold at auction for a bargain price. 49 00:03:33,923 --> 00:03:36,340 >> in fact it's said there are very few houses 50 00:03:36,416 --> 00:03:39,084 And barns left in the area of the gower 51 00:03:39,094 --> 00:03:41,345 That don't have some sort of wood or beams 52 00:03:41,421 --> 00:03:44,014 From the wreck of the helvetia. 53 00:03:45,517 --> 00:03:49,519 >> more than 250 ships have wrecked along this coast. 54 00:03:54,351 --> 00:03:57,277 The treacherous winds and hostile waters 55 00:03:57,354 --> 00:04:00,447 That sealed the fate of the helvetia 56 00:04:00,524 --> 00:04:03,283 Also sculpted the stunning scenery 57 00:04:03,494 --> 00:04:07,454 Along this wild coastline. 58 00:04:07,531 --> 00:04:10,958 Wales is home to the world's longest coastal footpath. 59 00:04:13,796 --> 00:04:18,131 An 800-mile journey that many begin here 60 00:04:18,208 --> 00:04:20,050 On the gower peninsula. 61 00:04:22,513 --> 00:04:27,307 The gower projects westward into the bristol channel, 62 00:04:27,476 --> 00:04:31,478 A major inlet that separates south wales from England. 63 00:04:35,150 --> 00:04:38,143 Rhossili bay stretches across three miles 64 00:04:38,153 --> 00:04:40,570 Of the gower's south-western tip. 65 00:04:42,574 --> 00:04:45,659 Rimmed with sheer limestone, 66 00:04:45,736 --> 00:04:50,163 Topped with brilliant green grass, 67 00:04:50,240 --> 00:04:52,407 Rhossili bay was designated 68 00:04:52,418 --> 00:04:55,335 As the united kingdom's first area 69 00:04:55,462 --> 00:04:58,755 Of outstanding natural beauty. 70 00:04:58,832 --> 00:05:03,427 (winds blowing and waves crashing) 71 00:05:03,503 --> 00:05:06,346 The sands of rhossili bay 72 00:05:06,557 --> 00:05:09,433 Lie between two limestone outcrops. 73 00:05:11,562 --> 00:05:14,855 These form a set of arms that hug the bay. 74 00:05:16,600 --> 00:05:19,943 Nestled between these hard limestone arms 75 00:05:20,020 --> 00:05:22,854 Is softer sandstone. 76 00:05:22,865 --> 00:05:27,784 Tides erode the sandstone to form the hollow of the bay. 77 00:05:27,861 --> 00:05:31,029 >> all the tides around the gower peninsula 78 00:05:31,040 --> 00:05:33,957 Are influenced of course by the severn estuary, 79 00:05:34,034 --> 00:05:37,878 So it has a dramatic effect on the landscape. 80 00:05:37,954 --> 00:05:41,506 >> the river severn is the longest river in great britain. 81 00:05:43,126 --> 00:05:46,711 Its estuary empties into the bristol channel, 82 00:05:46,722 --> 00:05:49,389 Which opens into the north atlantic ocean. 83 00:05:51,060 --> 00:05:53,218 The tides in the severn estuary 84 00:05:53,228 --> 00:05:56,438 Rise and fall by more than 45 feet. 85 00:05:57,974 --> 00:06:02,069 It is the world's second-highest tidal range, 86 00:06:02,145 --> 00:06:05,405 Exceeded only by canada's bay of fundy. 87 00:06:09,578 --> 00:06:11,820 As the tidewaters of the atlantic 88 00:06:11,830 --> 00:06:15,082 Surge through the bristol channel, 89 00:06:15,158 --> 00:06:18,377 The sea pummels the gower peninsula. 90 00:06:20,923 --> 00:06:25,759 Over time, these tides sculpt coves and bays - 91 00:06:25,836 --> 00:06:28,178 Rugged, yet beautiful. 92 00:06:33,009 --> 00:06:36,094 In the 18th century, 93 00:06:36,105 --> 00:06:39,856 The hidden coves and bays of the gower peninsula 94 00:06:39,933 --> 00:06:42,692 Were ideal nooks for smuggling goods. 95 00:06:44,613 --> 00:06:47,772 Items like alcohol, tobacco and tea 96 00:06:47,783 --> 00:06:51,118 Were snuck into wales tax-free 97 00:06:51,194 --> 00:06:53,620 And sold for bargain prices. 98 00:06:57,960 --> 00:07:01,294 Smuggling was so widespread along the gower, 99 00:07:01,371 --> 00:07:05,465 Even the clergy turned a blind eye. 100 00:07:05,592 --> 00:07:07,292 Smuggled goods were stored 101 00:07:07,302 --> 00:07:11,721 Behind the old rectory of rhossili. 102 00:07:11,798 --> 00:07:13,965 An operation that surely 103 00:07:13,976 --> 00:07:17,644 Could not have gone unnoticed by the rector. 104 00:07:17,721 --> 00:07:20,147 >> now the solitary white house you can see behind me 105 00:07:20,223 --> 00:07:21,731 Is the old rectory. 106 00:07:21,808 --> 00:07:23,650 It was the house where the priest 107 00:07:23,727 --> 00:07:26,987 Or the vicar of the parish of rhossili would live 108 00:07:27,063 --> 00:07:30,449 And it was situated close by to the church of rhossili. 109 00:07:36,239 --> 00:07:39,324 >> the old rectory, you think stands alone. 110 00:07:39,334 --> 00:07:41,659 But if you take yourself back hundreds of years, 111 00:07:41,670 --> 00:07:43,253 The village actually was down there. 112 00:07:43,330 --> 00:07:44,671 There were houses down there. 113 00:07:44,748 --> 00:07:46,923 And they were brought up on the top of the cliff 114 00:07:47,000 --> 00:07:49,509 Because of this great sand inundation. 115 00:07:52,264 --> 00:07:56,674 >> during the 13th century, a change in tidal currents 116 00:07:56,685 --> 00:08:00,094 Unleashed wind and rain so powerful 117 00:08:00,105 --> 00:08:03,607 Entire villages along the southern coast of wales 118 00:08:03,683 --> 00:08:05,817 Were buried under sand. 119 00:08:07,696 --> 00:08:08,945 >> in gower in particular, 120 00:08:09,022 --> 00:08:11,105 We have this raised plateau of limestone shelf 121 00:08:11,116 --> 00:08:12,365 Where the sand just packed in 122 00:08:12,442 --> 00:08:16,277 And made these wonderful beaches. 123 00:08:16,288 --> 00:08:19,289 >> the old village of rhossili sat at the foothills 124 00:08:19,366 --> 00:08:22,867 Of this limestone shelf. 125 00:08:22,878 --> 00:08:26,505 The old rectory is the last surviving structure. 126 00:08:28,675 --> 00:08:31,292 >> the rest of the village of rhossili is disappeared 127 00:08:31,303 --> 00:08:32,969 Underneath the sands. 128 00:08:33,046 --> 00:08:35,797 Again, becoming a victim of the tides 129 00:08:35,807 --> 00:08:40,185 That are always sweeping against the shores here at rhossili. 130 00:08:41,471 --> 00:08:44,806 >> the old rectory has since been renovated. 131 00:08:44,816 --> 00:08:49,060 Today, it is one of the region's most sought-after lodgings 132 00:08:49,071 --> 00:08:52,531 With a waiting list longer than three years. 133 00:08:57,737 --> 00:08:59,162 >> now whenever you come to wales, 134 00:08:59,239 --> 00:09:01,239 The one thing that you can't help mentioning, of course, 135 00:09:01,250 --> 00:09:03,208 Are our woolly friends, the sheep. 136 00:09:07,414 --> 00:09:10,415 Down the gower there's a lot of what we call "common land", 137 00:09:10,425 --> 00:09:13,418 Where it's land that goes back to medieval times 138 00:09:13,428 --> 00:09:16,221 Which is used communally by all the people around here. 139 00:09:20,185 --> 00:09:21,601 People always say, 140 00:09:21,678 --> 00:09:24,354 Well, how does a farmer know which sheep is which? 141 00:09:24,431 --> 00:09:26,848 The ownership of the sheep are indicated 142 00:09:26,858 --> 00:09:29,693 By little tags that the sheep have on their ears. 143 00:09:31,363 --> 00:09:33,113 Now you see the paint on the sheep 144 00:09:33,189 --> 00:09:35,282 But that indicates whether the sheep have had 145 00:09:35,358 --> 00:09:38,118 Certain inoculations or injections. 146 00:09:41,707 --> 00:09:44,207 The sheep first came over with those ancient celtic people 147 00:09:44,284 --> 00:09:46,960 About 500 years bc. 148 00:09:47,037 --> 00:09:49,796 They are naturally a mediterranean animal 149 00:09:49,873 --> 00:09:52,290 But we find that they live, thrive, and survive 150 00:09:52,301 --> 00:09:55,051 Not only in the farmlands but in the mountain regions, 151 00:09:55,128 --> 00:09:58,888 The heathlands, the moorlands and of course the coastal areas. 152 00:10:02,769 --> 00:10:06,313 Now in wales we've got a human population of about 3.6 million 153 00:10:06,389 --> 00:10:09,140 But we're vastly outnumbered by the sheep. 154 00:10:09,151 --> 00:10:11,818 At any time of year, there are at least 15 million sheep 155 00:10:11,895 --> 00:10:13,153 Altogether in wales. 156 00:10:13,229 --> 00:10:15,614 So we've got about five each for everybody. 157 00:10:20,320 --> 00:10:23,488 >> on the southern tip of rhossili bay, 158 00:10:23,498 --> 00:10:28,084 A mile-long stretch of land snakes out to sea 159 00:10:28,161 --> 00:10:31,087 Marking the most westerly tip of the gower. 160 00:10:36,345 --> 00:10:40,513 The rocky bluff dips down before rearing its head, 161 00:10:40,590 --> 00:10:45,018 150 feet out of the water. 162 00:10:46,930 --> 00:10:48,647 This is worm's head. 163 00:10:51,026 --> 00:10:54,944 >> now, legend surrounds this worm's head. 164 00:10:55,021 --> 00:10:58,189 The name worm's head comes from "wurm's head", 165 00:10:58,200 --> 00:11:01,859 A wurm being a serpent or a dragon 166 00:11:01,870 --> 00:11:04,529 That used to look out onto the horizon of the sea 167 00:11:04,539 --> 00:11:07,782 To guard the shore against any evil spirits 168 00:11:07,793 --> 00:11:09,042 That might want to come in 169 00:11:09,119 --> 00:11:11,878 And corrupt the people that lived here. 170 00:11:13,548 --> 00:11:17,125 >> twice a day, with the turn of the tide, 171 00:11:17,135 --> 00:11:20,220 Worm's head becomes an island 172 00:11:20,296 --> 00:11:22,931 Cut off from rhossili's coastline. 173 00:11:26,970 --> 00:11:30,480 A causeway connects the two landmasses 174 00:11:30,557 --> 00:11:34,192 But it's only exposed for just a few hours at a time. 175 00:11:38,148 --> 00:11:39,981 >> if you are feeling a bit intrepid, 176 00:11:39,991 --> 00:11:41,491 You can actually walk yourself 177 00:11:41,568 --> 00:11:45,236 Out to the furthest-most tip of worm's head. 178 00:11:45,247 --> 00:11:47,831 You've only really got a four-hour window 179 00:11:47,907 --> 00:11:49,499 In which to get through the causeway, 180 00:11:49,576 --> 00:11:51,418 Onto worm's head itself 181 00:11:51,494 --> 00:11:53,837 And then back safely to shore as well. 182 00:11:53,913 --> 00:11:56,589 If you don't, well, sit down and relax 183 00:11:56,666 --> 00:11:58,758 Because you'll have at least a 6-hour wait 184 00:11:58,835 --> 00:12:02,387 Before you're able to return back to the shore. 185 00:12:04,850 --> 00:12:08,727 (winds blowing and waves crashing) 186 00:12:10,105 --> 00:12:14,107 Further up the coast, water packs a greater punch. 187 00:12:16,528 --> 00:12:19,854 >> waves around here can get absolutely massive. 188 00:12:19,865 --> 00:12:24,117 We're talking 15, 20-meter swells. 189 00:12:29,282 --> 00:12:31,541 Out on the open ocean, they can be reasonably frightening 190 00:12:31,618 --> 00:12:33,376 But as they get into shallow water 191 00:12:33,453 --> 00:12:36,287 The wave height builds up even more 192 00:12:36,298 --> 00:12:38,456 And the front of the wave topples over 193 00:12:38,467 --> 00:12:41,468 And that's when a lot of this erosion happens. 194 00:12:41,544 --> 00:12:43,636 It's the sheer force of those breaking waves 195 00:12:43,713 --> 00:12:45,546 As they hit the cliffs. 196 00:12:45,557 --> 00:12:55,565 (♪♪♪) 197 00:12:55,642 --> 00:13:00,570 (♪♪♪) 198 00:13:07,987 --> 00:13:10,571 >> along the south of wales, 199 00:13:10,582 --> 00:13:12,573 Waves that have powered their way 200 00:13:12,584 --> 00:13:16,002 Across the full expanse of the north atlantic ocean, 201 00:13:16,079 --> 00:13:18,838 Come crashing into the sheer cliffs 202 00:13:19,049 --> 00:13:22,425 Of the pembrokeshire coast. 203 00:13:22,502 --> 00:13:26,930 A coastline that twists and turns west from the gower 204 00:13:27,006 --> 00:13:30,809 Through 186 miles of west wales. 205 00:13:32,521 --> 00:13:36,856 A thick sheet of limestone guards its western tip, 206 00:13:37,025 --> 00:13:39,108 The castlemartin peninsula. 207 00:13:40,612 --> 00:13:43,029 Here, the power of the waves 208 00:13:43,106 --> 00:13:45,281 Has carved one of the welsh coast's 209 00:13:45,358 --> 00:13:48,076 Most iconic natural sculptures. 210 00:13:51,447 --> 00:13:56,292 A stone arch juts 65 feet out to sea 211 00:13:56,369 --> 00:14:00,880 And rises more than 60 feet above the water, 212 00:14:00,957 --> 00:14:04,467 Clinging to the coast of castlemartin, 213 00:14:04,544 --> 00:14:07,846 This is the green bridge of wales. 214 00:14:15,313 --> 00:14:18,723 Natural arches like this begin to take shape 215 00:14:18,733 --> 00:14:22,902 When waves hitting both sides of the limestone headland 216 00:14:23,071 --> 00:14:25,405 Carve small caves back to back. 217 00:14:27,817 --> 00:14:31,578 Eventually, water breaks through the dividing wall 218 00:14:31,654 --> 00:14:34,155 And pierces through the weaker rock 219 00:14:34,165 --> 00:14:37,491 Connecting the two caves. 220 00:14:37,502 --> 00:14:40,962 Over time, this hole widens through erosion. 221 00:14:45,343 --> 00:14:48,595 The result is a natural arch, 222 00:14:48,671 --> 00:14:52,506 One of nature's most beautifully engineered structures. 223 00:14:52,517 --> 00:15:05,028 (♪♪♪) 224 00:15:05,104 --> 00:15:08,522 Someday the forces that created this arch 225 00:15:08,533 --> 00:15:10,158 Will also destroy it. 226 00:15:16,124 --> 00:15:18,958 These sea stacks are the supporting pillars 227 00:15:19,085 --> 00:15:21,085 Of what was once an arch. 228 00:15:23,206 --> 00:15:25,924 Each is taller than a 10-storey building. 229 00:15:28,461 --> 00:15:33,139 And represents the final stages of maritime cliff erosion. 230 00:15:36,311 --> 00:15:40,396 Over time, beating waves isolate the rock 231 00:15:40,473 --> 00:15:42,148 From the adjoining cliff. 232 00:15:45,395 --> 00:15:47,403 Millions of years ago, 233 00:15:47,480 --> 00:15:49,989 This scene would have looked similar 234 00:15:50,200 --> 00:15:52,033 To the green bridge of wales. 235 00:15:59,575 --> 00:16:03,336 Eventually, the sea will also undermine these stacks 236 00:16:04,664 --> 00:16:07,256 And the soaring pedestals of stone 237 00:16:07,333 --> 00:16:10,677 Will become mere stumps. 238 00:16:14,173 --> 00:16:17,100 As these striking features wash away, 239 00:16:17,176 --> 00:16:19,227 New ones take shape. 240 00:16:28,363 --> 00:16:32,031 Farther up the coast is an abyss 241 00:16:32,108 --> 00:16:35,368 Nearly 150 feet deep, 242 00:16:35,445 --> 00:16:38,246 More than 160 feet across. 243 00:16:40,616 --> 00:16:43,292 Large enough to engulf the white house. 244 00:16:45,296 --> 00:16:49,424 This is the devil's cauldron. 245 00:16:51,136 --> 00:16:55,722 An imposing crater formed by the collapse of several blowholes. 246 00:17:02,138 --> 00:17:06,807 A blowhole appears when water erodes weaker sections of rock 247 00:17:06,818 --> 00:17:08,776 To create a sea cave. 248 00:17:10,480 --> 00:17:13,230 As waves move in and out, 249 00:17:13,241 --> 00:17:16,576 Water pressure builds inside the cave 250 00:17:16,652 --> 00:17:20,571 And wears away the rock. 251 00:17:20,582 --> 00:17:23,750 Eventually, a narrow shaft forms 252 00:17:23,826 --> 00:17:27,086 From the sea cave up to the cliff top 253 00:17:27,163 --> 00:17:30,548 Releasing the surging water through a jet spray. 254 00:17:32,761 --> 00:17:35,762 Several of these blowholes formed in this cliff. 255 00:17:37,757 --> 00:17:42,685 As powerful waves continued to erode weaker sections of rock, 256 00:17:42,762 --> 00:17:47,065 The blowholes collapsed creating a much wider shaft. 257 00:17:48,193 --> 00:17:50,184 According to geologists, 258 00:17:50,195 --> 00:17:54,605 The mass of rock that collapsed to produce the cauldron 259 00:17:54,616 --> 00:17:56,866 Is heavier than the combined weight 260 00:17:56,943 --> 00:18:00,620 Of the three largest ocean liners ever built. 261 00:18:04,209 --> 00:18:08,961 Over time, the cauldron cliffs will also break apart 262 00:18:09,038 --> 00:18:13,216 To form a series of stacks and arches so imposing 263 00:18:13,292 --> 00:18:17,386 They will dwarf the magnificent green bridge of wales. 264 00:18:19,808 --> 00:18:22,633 >> the coast, it's always changing. 265 00:18:22,644 --> 00:18:24,218 But it's the power of the ocean really 266 00:18:24,229 --> 00:18:27,146 That does most of the work. 267 00:18:27,273 --> 00:18:29,982 A walk along the pembrokeshire coast path, 268 00:18:30,059 --> 00:18:32,151 For me, is always special. 269 00:18:32,362 --> 00:18:34,737 You never know what you're going to see. 270 00:18:34,814 --> 00:18:37,115 It's always special because of the geology. 271 00:18:39,485 --> 00:18:43,237 These little guys down here, 272 00:18:43,248 --> 00:18:46,407 They're 24 million years old. 273 00:18:46,417 --> 00:18:49,743 So much, much, much younger than anything else 274 00:18:49,754 --> 00:18:51,504 In the whole of this area. 275 00:18:51,581 --> 00:18:54,590 So it's a bit of a mystery what on earth they're doing here 276 00:18:54,667 --> 00:18:57,009 Because they're so out of context. 277 00:18:57,086 --> 00:19:00,671 And what people think is that limestone rocks, 278 00:19:00,682 --> 00:19:03,591 Which are the ones we're surrounded by, 279 00:19:03,601 --> 00:19:07,353 Are very, very prone to being eaten away by water. 280 00:19:07,430 --> 00:19:10,523 You get lots of cracks, lots of fissures. 281 00:19:10,600 --> 00:19:14,018 And so when these rocks were already quite old, 282 00:19:14,028 --> 00:19:16,195 There were little streams running down 283 00:19:16,322 --> 00:19:19,365 Through cracks in the limestone through underwater caverns- 284 00:19:19,442 --> 00:19:21,033 Mini caves. 285 00:19:21,110 --> 00:19:23,861 They brought material down with them 286 00:19:23,872 --> 00:19:27,707 And filled little caves within the rock with this stuff, 287 00:19:27,783 --> 00:19:31,035 Water went on through, left the stuff behind. 288 00:19:31,045 --> 00:19:33,880 Now since then, the limestone has eroded 289 00:19:33,956 --> 00:19:37,216 And has left these rocks at the surface 290 00:19:37,343 --> 00:19:40,711 So way, way out of time and way, way out of place. 291 00:19:40,722 --> 00:19:43,964 Consequently, rather interesting. 292 00:19:43,975 --> 00:19:47,468 >> as the sun descends on the green bridge of wales 293 00:19:47,478 --> 00:19:49,896 And the day comes to a close, 294 00:19:49,972 --> 00:19:52,306 The restless waters of the atlantic 295 00:19:52,317 --> 00:19:55,193 Continue to undermine the cliffs. 296 00:19:58,489 --> 00:20:01,565 The morning sun illuminates the wrinkled face 297 00:20:01,576 --> 00:20:03,367 Of the pembrokeshire coast. 298 00:20:07,498 --> 00:20:11,334 Every fault, crease and dimple 299 00:20:11,410 --> 00:20:14,378 Is exposed to the wrath of the sea. 300 00:20:16,666 --> 00:20:20,000 Water eats away at these weaker pockets 301 00:20:20,011 --> 00:20:22,762 As though taking a bite out of the coastline. 302 00:20:26,092 --> 00:20:29,352 >> there are so many layers of the history, 303 00:20:29,428 --> 00:20:31,270 Literally in the rocks, in the stories, 304 00:20:31,347 --> 00:20:33,013 In the legends and the myths 305 00:20:33,024 --> 00:20:35,599 And actually going that mile further 306 00:20:35,610 --> 00:20:37,685 And realizing there was something extra special 307 00:20:37,695 --> 00:20:39,445 Around the corner somewhere. 308 00:20:41,357 --> 00:20:43,691 >> nestled in a hidden cove, 309 00:20:43,701 --> 00:20:48,246 A small medieval church clings to the rocks of a secluded bay. 310 00:20:49,624 --> 00:20:53,376 An air of mystery grips the stone structure. 311 00:20:55,797 --> 00:20:59,456 This is st. Govan's chapel. 312 00:20:59,467 --> 00:21:01,300 >> st. Govan's chapel has got lots and lots 313 00:21:01,469 --> 00:21:04,128 Of little myths and legends. 314 00:21:04,138 --> 00:21:07,723 >> many think the original, simpler stone structure 315 00:21:07,800 --> 00:21:12,395 Was built as early as the 6th century 316 00:21:12,471 --> 00:21:15,398 And restored 7 centuries later. 317 00:21:21,072 --> 00:21:24,282 The entire building is smaller than a one-car garage. 318 00:21:26,569 --> 00:21:29,745 Little is known about the man who built it. 319 00:21:29,822 --> 00:21:31,330 Some people think he might have been 320 00:21:31,541 --> 00:21:33,332 One of king arthur's knights. 321 00:21:33,543 --> 00:21:36,994 Nobody's quite sure who he was. 322 00:21:37,005 --> 00:21:40,589 >> some legends say govan was an irish monk 323 00:21:40,666 --> 00:21:43,509 Sent to educate the people of this region. 324 00:21:45,421 --> 00:21:48,347 >> st. Govan's chapel is really interesting. 325 00:21:48,516 --> 00:21:50,090 Many, many centuries ago, 326 00:21:50,101 --> 00:21:53,686 You had this christianity developing on its own 327 00:21:53,763 --> 00:21:57,940 But through old celtic people's history as well. 328 00:21:59,444 --> 00:22:03,687 So you find a wonderful tapestry of the history 329 00:22:03,698 --> 00:22:05,781 Of the christian church in particular 330 00:22:05,858 --> 00:22:07,325 Literally in the rocks. 331 00:22:10,621 --> 00:22:13,539 >> others say govan was a coward 332 00:22:13,616 --> 00:22:17,001 Who took shelter in these rocks to hide from pirates. 333 00:22:25,878 --> 00:22:28,387 Further up the welsh coast 334 00:22:28,464 --> 00:22:32,058 On the south western tip of the dale peninsula, 335 00:22:32,134 --> 00:22:36,053 An isolated bay called "martin's haven" 336 00:22:36,064 --> 00:22:38,939 Shelters a very different inhabitant. 337 00:22:40,651 --> 00:22:44,236 >> this time of year's pretty special for the grey seal, 338 00:22:44,313 --> 00:22:47,239 The atlantic grey seal. 339 00:22:47,316 --> 00:22:49,408 What these seals require at this time of year 340 00:22:49,485 --> 00:22:52,620 Are safe, secluded beaches. 341 00:22:54,323 --> 00:22:58,376 >> it's October, pupping season on the coast of wales. 342 00:23:00,838 --> 00:23:04,748 The sheer pembrokeshire cliffs cradle the bay 343 00:23:04,759 --> 00:23:07,918 Providing the perfect protected nursery 344 00:23:07,929 --> 00:23:10,388 For these mothers and their young. 345 00:23:16,521 --> 00:23:20,272 Males patrol the water. 346 00:23:20,349 --> 00:23:23,401 Females and their young claim the beach. 347 00:23:25,530 --> 00:23:27,029 >> it's a really lovely thing to see, 348 00:23:27,106 --> 00:23:29,532 These great little seal pups 349 00:23:29,608 --> 00:23:31,867 And their mothers looking after them. 350 00:23:33,863 --> 00:23:36,196 >> a mother makes her way up the shore 351 00:23:36,207 --> 00:23:37,957 To feed her newborn. 352 00:23:41,712 --> 00:23:43,963 The pup latches on to suckle. 353 00:23:48,636 --> 00:23:53,714 At birth, most pups weigh about 35 pounds. 354 00:23:53,724 --> 00:23:57,560 They're easy to identify by their soft and fluffy coat. 355 00:23:59,388 --> 00:24:01,814 >> they're born with a rather smart-looking white coat, 356 00:24:01,891 --> 00:24:05,317 Which is, you think slightly odd for a seal 357 00:24:05,394 --> 00:24:08,061 But a lot of the pebbles on the beaches around here 358 00:24:08,072 --> 00:24:12,491 Are quite light-colored so the camouflage is quite good. 359 00:24:14,320 --> 00:24:16,987 >> this baby seal needs to fatten up 360 00:24:16,998 --> 00:24:19,665 Before getting in the water. 361 00:24:19,742 --> 00:24:23,252 It will spend the next two weeks latched on to mom. 362 00:24:24,755 --> 00:24:26,997 The mother's milk is extremely rich 363 00:24:27,008 --> 00:24:30,334 As much as 60 percent fat. 364 00:24:30,344 --> 00:24:33,304 So the pup should have no problem putting on the weight. 365 00:24:35,925 --> 00:24:40,102 On average, a young seal will gain about three pounds a day 366 00:24:40,179 --> 00:24:44,106 And can quadruple in size in just three weeks. 367 00:24:47,778 --> 00:24:50,863 For this pup independence is around the corner. 368 00:24:53,701 --> 00:24:58,370 It remains on land living off a reserve of blubber 369 00:24:58,447 --> 00:25:01,499 While waiting for its baby coat to moult. 370 00:25:03,794 --> 00:25:07,505 The pup rubs against a rock to speed up the process. 371 00:25:08,883 --> 00:25:12,125 Once the new waterproof fur grows in, 372 00:25:12,136 --> 00:25:14,711 The young seal will leave the beach 373 00:25:14,722 --> 00:25:18,057 And learn to fend for itself in the ocean. 374 00:25:19,802 --> 00:25:22,645 Once the pup is weaned, 375 00:25:22,721 --> 00:25:25,722 Its mother is available to mate again. 376 00:25:28,736 --> 00:25:31,895 And there's no shortage of suitors. 377 00:25:31,906 --> 00:25:34,648 A persistent male patrolling the waters 378 00:25:34,659 --> 00:25:36,784 Decides to make his advance. 379 00:25:40,665 --> 00:25:42,748 He charges up the beach 380 00:25:42,825 --> 00:25:46,126 To chase one of the females down into the water. 381 00:25:56,097 --> 00:25:58,556 Competition for mates is stiff. 382 00:26:00,676 --> 00:26:03,435 Territorial fighting is common among males 383 00:26:03,512 --> 00:26:05,229 During breeding season. 384 00:26:08,359 --> 00:26:12,236 Dominant males will mate with as many as 10 females. 385 00:26:14,189 --> 00:26:18,033 Larger males can grow more than 7 feet long, 386 00:26:18,110 --> 00:26:20,828 Weighing in at nearly 800 pounds. 387 00:26:22,865 --> 00:26:27,200 Females are smaller, averaging five to six feet, 388 00:26:27,211 --> 00:26:30,787 Weighing up to 500 pounds. 389 00:26:30,798 --> 00:26:33,382 >> it's quite easy to tell a difference between the two. 390 00:26:33,459 --> 00:26:36,460 The females, they tend to be smaller, 391 00:26:36,470 --> 00:26:39,296 Lighter, with speckled fur 392 00:26:39,307 --> 00:26:41,056 But their noses are really different. 393 00:26:41,133 --> 00:26:44,301 They have almost a feminine head, 394 00:26:44,312 --> 00:26:48,388 Almost a cat-like head, quite a narrow nose. 395 00:26:48,399 --> 00:26:52,234 Whereas the male's darker in appearance, larger animals, 396 00:26:52,311 --> 00:26:56,864 With a much, much thicker nose, rather more aristocratic nose. 397 00:26:59,869 --> 00:27:02,161 >> the male's long, arched nose 398 00:27:02,237 --> 00:27:05,164 Earned the grey seal its latin name, 399 00:27:05,240 --> 00:27:07,240 "halichoerus grypus", 400 00:27:07,251 --> 00:27:09,084 "hooked-nose sea pig". 401 00:27:14,425 --> 00:27:17,843 Back on shore, a playful mother and her young 402 00:27:17,920 --> 00:27:19,845 Lounge on the beach. 403 00:27:21,507 --> 00:27:24,683 Others are busy nursing 404 00:27:24,760 --> 00:27:27,686 Or keeping a close eye on their pups. 405 00:27:31,433 --> 00:27:33,776 As autumn comes to an end, 406 00:27:33,852 --> 00:27:36,695 The seals will leave their breeding ground 407 00:27:36,772 --> 00:27:39,940 And make their way home to skomer island. 408 00:27:42,778 --> 00:27:45,862 Less than a mile from the pembrokeshire coast 409 00:27:45,873 --> 00:27:49,875 Off the south-western tip of wales, 410 00:27:49,952 --> 00:27:54,672 Skomer rises more than 200 feet above the irish sea. 411 00:28:00,629 --> 00:28:04,723 From the mainland, skomer looks like two separate islands 412 00:28:04,892 --> 00:28:09,728 Connected by a narrow strip of land. 413 00:28:09,855 --> 00:28:14,141 The power of the sea eats away at this weaker neck of rock 414 00:28:14,151 --> 00:28:19,154 Nearly slicing the island in two. 415 00:28:19,231 --> 00:28:23,325 The name skomer originates from "skalmey", 416 00:28:23,402 --> 00:28:26,912 A norse word that means "sliced" or "cut". 417 00:28:30,576 --> 00:28:34,503 Skomer island was once connected to the mainland. 418 00:28:34,580 --> 00:28:36,580 But as the sea broke through, 419 00:28:36,590 --> 00:28:40,718 Skomer and the smaller midland isle became isolated. 420 00:28:43,338 --> 00:28:48,341 The surface area of skomer is only one square mile. 421 00:28:48,352 --> 00:28:52,730 It takes just 20 minutes to cross the entire island by foot. 422 00:28:54,266 --> 00:28:56,358 Despite its small size, 423 00:28:56,435 --> 00:29:00,353 Skomer has the largest population of manx shearwaters 424 00:29:00,364 --> 00:29:04,107 In the world. 425 00:29:04,118 --> 00:29:07,786 There's approximately 320,000 pairs of that bird 426 00:29:07,955 --> 00:29:09,529 On this island. 427 00:29:09,540 --> 00:29:11,790 But even if you came here in the middle of the breeding season, 428 00:29:11,867 --> 00:29:13,033 You wouldn't see them 429 00:29:13,043 --> 00:29:14,293 Because they're either underground 430 00:29:14,369 --> 00:29:17,546 Or out to sea feeding. 431 00:29:17,623 --> 00:29:20,466 The birds that have been feeding only come back to the island 432 00:29:20,542 --> 00:29:23,293 And swap over with their mate in the burrow 433 00:29:23,304 --> 00:29:28,140 Under cover of darkness to avoid seagull predation. 434 00:29:28,217 --> 00:29:31,435 Manx shearwaters live in underground burrows. 435 00:29:33,222 --> 00:29:35,939 Rabbits and puffins make similar homes. 436 00:29:38,644 --> 00:29:41,478 As a result, the entire island 437 00:29:41,489 --> 00:29:45,991 Is covered in more than one million burrows. 438 00:29:46,068 --> 00:29:49,995 One misstep off the footpath could collapse a home. 439 00:29:54,076 --> 00:29:57,586 Skomer island is a national nature reserve, 440 00:29:57,663 --> 00:30:00,080 A protected marine habitat 441 00:30:00,090 --> 00:30:03,008 And an area of special scientific interest. 442 00:30:07,014 --> 00:30:08,430 Beneath the burrows 443 00:30:08,507 --> 00:30:11,508 And the bright green grasses of the island 444 00:30:11,519 --> 00:30:14,511 Lies an important geological story. 445 00:30:17,349 --> 00:30:21,610 Distinct ribbons of rock streak the coastline. 446 00:30:21,687 --> 00:30:24,446 Each one represents a different era 447 00:30:24,523 --> 00:30:27,449 Of a turbulent geological past. 448 00:30:29,945 --> 00:30:33,872 Layer by layer these rocks tell the story 449 00:30:34,083 --> 00:30:37,117 Of one of the last major volcanic events 450 00:30:37,127 --> 00:30:40,128 That formed much of south wales. 451 00:30:42,124 --> 00:30:47,043 More than 400 million years ago, ancient plates shifted 452 00:30:47,054 --> 00:30:50,547 Causing volcanic eruptions to pour lava and ash 453 00:30:50,558 --> 00:30:52,891 3,000 feet thick 454 00:30:53,102 --> 00:30:56,395 Over more than 43 miles of south wales. 455 00:31:00,401 --> 00:31:03,861 Over time, the lava solidified to stone. 456 00:31:09,151 --> 00:31:13,120 Skomer island is made entirely of this volcanic rock. 457 00:31:19,086 --> 00:31:21,411 >> these rocks that we're sitting on right now 458 00:31:21,422 --> 00:31:25,090 Are lava flows from that volcanic episode 459 00:31:25,167 --> 00:31:28,010 430 million years ago. 460 00:31:28,086 --> 00:31:29,595 That makes skomer special. 461 00:31:29,671 --> 00:31:32,431 It's amazing to think as you walk around this island 462 00:31:32,507 --> 00:31:36,935 You're walking over products of a 430-million-year-old volcano. 463 00:31:37,012 --> 00:31:41,773 >> if you were to look at skomer from the mainland, 464 00:31:41,850 --> 00:31:44,943 You would see a series of 465 00:31:45,112 --> 00:31:47,687 What appear to be layers. 466 00:31:47,698 --> 00:31:52,192 These layers are, for the most part, lava flows. 467 00:31:52,202 --> 00:31:55,695 Now all of those different types cooled at different rates 468 00:31:55,706 --> 00:31:59,199 To give you final products that are subtly different. 469 00:31:59,209 --> 00:32:02,544 But essentially, from the side you have lava flows 470 00:32:02,621 --> 00:32:04,371 That have been tilted on their side 471 00:32:04,381 --> 00:32:07,382 So they now dip 40° to the south. 472 00:32:07,459 --> 00:32:09,459 What caused that tilting? 473 00:32:09,470 --> 00:32:11,970 Well, that's back to the caledonian mountains 474 00:32:12,097 --> 00:32:13,129 Being created. 475 00:32:13,140 --> 00:32:15,715 When that mountain range was created, 476 00:32:15,726 --> 00:32:19,386 You had a tremendous bout of orogenic activity, 477 00:32:19,396 --> 00:32:22,389 That's mountain building on the earth's surface. 478 00:32:22,399 --> 00:32:26,559 The rocks of skomer were folded and tilted and buckled 479 00:32:26,570 --> 00:32:28,320 And faulted. 480 00:32:28,397 --> 00:32:31,064 And the skomer lavas that started out horizontally 481 00:32:31,075 --> 00:32:32,950 Were now tilted. 482 00:32:35,079 --> 00:32:37,320 >> on the south side of the island, 483 00:32:37,331 --> 00:32:41,208 Geologists have discovered used artillery... 484 00:32:42,586 --> 00:32:45,161 Not from any manmade conflict 485 00:32:45,172 --> 00:32:48,915 But from deep within the earth's scalding core. 486 00:32:51,753 --> 00:32:55,839 These are volcanic bombs fired into the air 487 00:32:55,849 --> 00:32:58,433 From the mouth of an ancient volcano 488 00:32:58,510 --> 00:33:01,353 More than 400 million years ago. 489 00:33:03,098 --> 00:33:07,025 >> occasionally a volcano will get very excited and explosive. 490 00:33:07,102 --> 00:33:09,528 It goes through an explosive phase. 491 00:33:09,604 --> 00:33:13,699 And now it jets out material called "pyroclastic bombs" 492 00:33:13,775 --> 00:33:16,535 That get shot up into the atmosphere 493 00:33:16,611 --> 00:33:20,530 And then they're dumped into the surrounding rocks. 494 00:33:20,541 --> 00:33:22,532 Now if the surrounding rocks are still soft, 495 00:33:22,543 --> 00:33:25,043 As they would be if they're new lava flows, 496 00:33:25,212 --> 00:33:27,203 These spherical bombs of rock 497 00:33:27,214 --> 00:33:30,465 Get embedded into a laval matrix 498 00:33:30,542 --> 00:33:32,217 And you can see those on the island, 499 00:33:32,294 --> 00:33:35,053 Which is quite an exciting thing to be able to see. 500 00:33:38,884 --> 00:33:42,552 You've got fantastic rock formations just in front of you. 501 00:33:42,563 --> 00:33:45,063 You look out to the atlantic ocean. 502 00:33:45,274 --> 00:33:49,067 So you have a big evasion and a feeling of space. 503 00:33:49,144 --> 00:33:51,570 And it's some of the cleanest air on the planet. 504 00:33:51,646 --> 00:33:54,564 Seeing how things have changed over the time, 505 00:33:54,575 --> 00:33:57,075 But how actually rather a lot has stayed the same, 506 00:33:57,152 --> 00:33:59,736 The beauty and the seclusion and the peace and the quiet 507 00:33:59,747 --> 00:34:02,831 Has always been a constant for skomer. 508 00:34:02,908 --> 00:34:05,751 >> farther up the coast, the stunning mountains 509 00:34:05,827 --> 00:34:09,337 Of the first designated national park in wales 510 00:34:09,414 --> 00:34:13,750 Stretch across more than 800 square miles. 511 00:34:13,761 --> 00:34:16,053 This is snowdonia. 512 00:34:19,308 --> 00:34:23,268 A place built by fire and sculpted by ice. 513 00:34:26,607 --> 00:34:28,690 >> you could argue that it's an area 514 00:34:28,767 --> 00:34:31,109 Steeped in the history of fire and ice. 515 00:34:31,320 --> 00:34:33,436 That being it's the volcanic processes 516 00:34:33,447 --> 00:34:35,947 That's formed the mountains with tectonic movements 517 00:34:36,024 --> 00:34:40,360 And associated volcanoes folding the earth's surface 518 00:34:40,370 --> 00:34:42,287 And then the glacial period 519 00:34:42,364 --> 00:34:45,624 Revealing all the wonders of the geology. 520 00:34:45,700 --> 00:34:48,376 What you'll see around you is various peaks 521 00:34:48,453 --> 00:34:50,712 Of different sizes and heights 522 00:34:50,789 --> 00:34:54,132 And some deep valleys-- river valleys 523 00:34:54,343 --> 00:34:56,551 And some wide glacial valleys as well. 524 00:35:01,350 --> 00:35:04,634 >> the star of this landscape is snowdon, 525 00:35:04,645 --> 00:35:07,104 The highest mountain in wales. 526 00:35:09,483 --> 00:35:14,111 Its peak rests in the clouds nearly 4,000 feet high. 527 00:35:15,313 --> 00:35:18,740 The sheer rock, unstable gravel 528 00:35:18,817 --> 00:35:21,660 And tricky traverses of snowdon 529 00:35:21,736 --> 00:35:25,747 Make an ideal training ground for professional climbers. 530 00:35:25,824 --> 00:35:28,583 Edmund hilary trained at snowdonia 531 00:35:28,660 --> 00:35:31,411 Before heading to nepal. 532 00:35:31,421 --> 00:35:33,913 And in may of 1953, 533 00:35:33,924 --> 00:35:37,342 He and sherpa, tenzing norgay, 534 00:35:37,419 --> 00:35:40,929 Became the first to successfully summit mount everest. 535 00:35:44,935 --> 00:35:49,020 Snowdonia's mountains were born in a fiery collision 536 00:35:49,097 --> 00:35:51,148 Between tectonic plates. 537 00:35:52,767 --> 00:35:54,526 >> about 400 million years ago, 538 00:35:54,603 --> 00:35:56,778 The sediments were being laid on the ocean floor 539 00:35:56,855 --> 00:35:58,354 So you would have the ash deposits, 540 00:35:58,365 --> 00:36:00,198 You would have the sand and silt, mud 541 00:36:00,367 --> 00:36:02,367 Being laid on top of each other. 542 00:36:02,444 --> 00:36:04,953 And as the tectonic plates were moving, 543 00:36:05,030 --> 00:36:07,622 You would've had one tectonic plate going underneath another, 544 00:36:07,699 --> 00:36:09,616 Which created massive folds. 545 00:36:09,626 --> 00:36:11,209 They would have brought the layers 546 00:36:11,378 --> 00:36:13,211 That would've been on the bottom of the sea up to the tops. 547 00:36:13,380 --> 00:36:14,787 That's why you got the best place for fossils 548 00:36:14,798 --> 00:36:16,590 On the tops of the mountains. 549 00:36:19,294 --> 00:36:23,546 >> cwm idwal, a picturesque glacial valley, 550 00:36:23,557 --> 00:36:26,600 Bears the evidence of this tectonic shift. 551 00:36:31,556 --> 00:36:35,984 Fossils of marine organisms, once living on the sea floor, 552 00:36:36,061 --> 00:36:39,979 Lie embedded in the rocks of cwm idwal. 553 00:36:39,990 --> 00:36:42,657 >> we've got fossils of these little sea creatures, 554 00:36:42,734 --> 00:36:44,242 They're called "brachiopods". 555 00:36:44,453 --> 00:36:46,402 They would have been shelled creatures with hard valves 556 00:36:46,413 --> 00:36:48,321 And they would have been living at the bottom of the sea 557 00:36:48,332 --> 00:36:50,323 About 40 million years ago. 558 00:36:50,334 --> 00:36:52,751 Nowadays they are being found on the tops of the mountains 559 00:36:52,827 --> 00:36:55,670 And that's due to the tectonic forces that took place. 560 00:36:57,332 --> 00:37:00,008 >> but these fossils, once at the top, 561 00:37:00,085 --> 00:37:03,053 Now lie at the base of cwm idwal. 562 00:37:06,850 --> 00:37:09,226 How did some end up at the bottom? 563 00:37:11,939 --> 00:37:15,232 It was a puzzle that perplexed charles darwin. 564 00:37:17,694 --> 00:37:20,528 These boulders laden with fossils, 565 00:37:20,605 --> 00:37:23,606 Provided some of the earliest evidence 566 00:37:23,617 --> 00:37:27,869 That this entire landscape had been carved by ice. 567 00:37:33,201 --> 00:37:37,796 Scientists like darwin were only just beginning to theorize 568 00:37:37,872 --> 00:37:41,466 That there had once been a period of immense glaciation. 569 00:37:42,803 --> 00:37:44,636 >> cwm idwal is very important 570 00:37:44,713 --> 00:37:47,630 In terms of its role in the glacial theory 571 00:37:47,641 --> 00:37:49,808 Or the theory of glaciation. 572 00:37:49,884 --> 00:37:52,477 One of its famous scholars includes charles darwin 573 00:37:52,554 --> 00:37:54,312 Who visited the area. 574 00:37:54,481 --> 00:37:57,640 The glacial theory relates to how ice has formed landscapes. 575 00:37:57,651 --> 00:38:00,393 And cwm idwal is a classic cwm or cirque. 576 00:38:00,404 --> 00:38:02,562 It's a bowl-shaped amphitheater, 577 00:38:02,572 --> 00:38:04,864 Formed when the glacier moves down the mountain. 578 00:38:07,152 --> 00:38:09,995 >> darwin proposed that as glaciers move, 579 00:38:10,071 --> 00:38:13,331 They collect rubble from the top of the mountain. 580 00:38:13,542 --> 00:38:15,992 Then move the rocks and dirt downhill 581 00:38:16,003 --> 00:38:18,295 And deposit them at the base. 582 00:38:22,584 --> 00:38:27,086 After helping darwin prove his theory of glaciation, 583 00:38:27,097 --> 00:38:30,598 These rocks earned their name, 584 00:38:30,675 --> 00:38:32,600 "darwin's boulders". 585 00:38:34,596 --> 00:38:38,189 If it wasn't for the glaciers scraping away the surface, 586 00:38:38,266 --> 00:38:42,101 We would have never found these fossils. 587 00:38:42,112 --> 00:38:44,362 >> you can see the effect of ice carving out the rock 588 00:38:44,573 --> 00:38:45,822 All the way down the valley there. 589 00:38:49,778 --> 00:38:54,122 >> today lakes fill deep glacial hollows 590 00:38:54,199 --> 00:38:56,958 And waterfalls spill over rocks 591 00:38:57,035 --> 00:39:00,378 Perched high above the valley floor. 592 00:39:00,589 --> 00:39:09,462 (♪♪♪) 593 00:39:09,473 --> 00:39:13,391 >> in snowdonia, there's all kinds of movements of water. 594 00:39:13,468 --> 00:39:16,478 You've got your traditional runoff which forms streams, 595 00:39:16,554 --> 00:39:18,229 You've got glacial lakes, 596 00:39:18,306 --> 00:39:21,891 You've got waterfalls where the hard rock hasn't been eroded 597 00:39:21,902 --> 00:39:25,070 And there's a cascade of water there as well. 598 00:39:30,819 --> 00:39:34,204 >> cattle and sheep graze in these mountain valleys, 599 00:39:36,157 --> 00:39:39,417 As they have for thousands of years. 600 00:39:39,628 --> 00:39:51,096 (♪♪♪) 601 00:39:51,172 --> 00:39:55,508 An ancient drover's crossing constructed with loose stones 602 00:39:55,519 --> 00:39:59,020 Was once used to move livestock. 603 00:39:59,097 --> 00:40:02,515 Now it is dwarfed by a modern bridge. 604 00:40:02,526 --> 00:40:03,850 >> the people have grown, 605 00:40:03,860 --> 00:40:05,435 They've lived in these mountains. 606 00:40:05,445 --> 00:40:09,856 And the mountains themselves are dominant peaks and landscapes 607 00:40:09,866 --> 00:40:13,284 Which help with navigation, they provide shelter, 608 00:40:13,361 --> 00:40:16,454 They provide different habitats to graze upon. 609 00:40:16,623 --> 00:40:17,947 But the important part 610 00:40:17,958 --> 00:40:20,542 Are the valleys between those mountains. 611 00:40:20,618 --> 00:40:23,035 It's where people come, it's where cultures are shared, 612 00:40:23,046 --> 00:40:25,705 It's where traditions are shared. 613 00:40:25,715 --> 00:40:29,467 There's thousands of years of culture that I feel a part of. 614 00:40:29,678 --> 00:40:31,803 I think I'm rooted in these mountains. 615 00:40:31,880 --> 00:40:34,472 And by standing by the root of the mountains themselves 616 00:40:34,641 --> 00:40:36,549 And looking at the majesty of the mountains, 617 00:40:36,560 --> 00:40:39,477 It just give you a sense of awe. 618 00:40:39,604 --> 00:40:48,820 (♪♪♪) 619 00:40:48,897 --> 00:40:53,324 >> farther up the coastal path at the northern tip of wales, 620 00:40:53,401 --> 00:40:55,318 A rocky headland, 621 00:40:55,328 --> 00:40:58,997 2 miles long and 1 mile across, 622 00:40:59,073 --> 00:41:02,000 Meets the irish sea. 623 00:41:02,076 --> 00:41:04,669 This is the great orme. 624 00:41:10,001 --> 00:41:14,554 The summit of great orme rises nearly 700 feet above the water. 625 00:41:18,602 --> 00:41:21,260 >> it's defended by sheer cliffs, 626 00:41:21,271 --> 00:41:24,147 Which overlook the surrounding countryside. 627 00:41:26,017 --> 00:41:30,195 >> it is an ideal vantage point to prepare for a coastal battle. 628 00:41:32,440 --> 00:41:36,609 In 1940, early in the second world war, 629 00:41:36,620 --> 00:41:40,497 The threat of a german invasion put great britain on high alert. 630 00:41:41,791 --> 00:41:45,201 The army relocated its coastal gunnery school 631 00:41:45,212 --> 00:41:49,797 From east coast essex to the west coast of wales. 632 00:41:49,874 --> 00:41:53,125 The view and the wide mouth of the bay 633 00:41:53,136 --> 00:41:56,304 Made the great orme an ideal training ground 634 00:41:56,381 --> 00:41:58,798 For british gunners. 635 00:41:58,808 --> 00:42:01,384 Boats were towed across the bay 636 00:42:01,394 --> 00:42:04,521 And anchored in the distance for target practice. 637 00:42:05,807 --> 00:42:08,724 By 1942, the gunnery school 638 00:42:08,735 --> 00:42:12,278 Had trained more than 750 servicemen. 639 00:42:17,068 --> 00:42:20,736 Today three searchlight stations remain. 640 00:42:23,750 --> 00:42:24,916 >> very early on, people had discovered 641 00:42:24,993 --> 00:42:28,086 That it was a good vantage point. 642 00:42:28,162 --> 00:42:31,831 You could see what was happening for miles around, 643 00:42:31,841 --> 00:42:33,416 So I guess that's one of the things 644 00:42:33,426 --> 00:42:37,720 That attracted people to live and to make their lives here. 645 00:42:39,933 --> 00:42:44,185 >> by the 19th century, many had settled on the great orme 646 00:42:44,262 --> 00:42:47,272 To farm the headland. 647 00:42:47,348 --> 00:42:52,184 In 1880, one landowner acquired several kashmir goats 648 00:42:52,195 --> 00:42:56,281 From northern india and set them free on his land. 649 00:42:57,951 --> 00:43:01,619 Today these goats still run wild 650 00:43:01,788 --> 00:43:04,289 And now number in the hundreds. 651 00:43:04,365 --> 00:43:07,950 >> I think the goats are symbolic of the great orme. 652 00:43:07,961 --> 00:43:12,955 There are feral goats elsewhere in wales, separate herds 653 00:43:12,966 --> 00:43:15,291 But they're completely different to the goats here. 654 00:43:15,302 --> 00:43:18,261 This is a particular breed, kashmir. 655 00:43:19,964 --> 00:43:22,640 >> halfway down the headland, 656 00:43:22,851 --> 00:43:25,143 Steep slopes and narrow ledges 657 00:43:25,219 --> 00:43:29,221 Present an inhospitable landscape for most. 658 00:43:29,232 --> 00:43:32,483 (goats bleating) 659 00:43:32,560 --> 00:43:36,237 But for these feral goats, this is home. 660 00:43:38,742 --> 00:43:42,660 For the most part, the scene on the slopes is quite peaceful. 661 00:43:44,238 --> 00:43:48,491 Many goats rest along rocky ledges. 662 00:43:48,501 --> 00:43:51,252 Others delicately nibble the grass 663 00:43:51,329 --> 00:43:54,005 And pick at the remaining berries. 664 00:43:56,084 --> 00:43:57,508 The dominant males 665 00:43:57,585 --> 00:44:00,386 Have the largest curved horns in the herd. 666 00:44:02,507 --> 00:44:06,517 The horns are notched with large ridges. 667 00:44:06,594 --> 00:44:10,346 Each ridge represents one year of growth, 668 00:44:10,357 --> 00:44:13,650 Making mature males easy to spot. 669 00:44:16,780 --> 00:44:20,281 These goats are best known for their silky wool coat. 670 00:44:22,911 --> 00:44:26,195 Soft cashmere wool first gained popularity 671 00:44:26,206 --> 00:44:28,706 During the reign of queen victoria 672 00:44:28,833 --> 00:44:32,293 And is still in high demand today. 673 00:44:32,370 --> 00:44:35,713 >> human history on the great orme goes back an awful long way. 674 00:44:35,882 --> 00:44:38,457 Over 500 sites of historical interest 675 00:44:38,468 --> 00:44:42,211 Have been recorded just on this small headland. 676 00:44:42,222 --> 00:44:44,931 So it's really rich in human history. 677 00:44:47,385 --> 00:44:50,728 There are so many reasons why the great orme is special. 678 00:44:50,855 --> 00:44:52,730 It's hard to quantify, really. 679 00:44:52,941 --> 00:44:56,308 You've got steep drops below you straight down to the sea, 680 00:44:56,319 --> 00:44:58,403 You've got the sound of the seabirds, 681 00:44:58,479 --> 00:45:00,738 That feeling of isolation. 682 00:45:00,949 --> 00:45:01,823 It's-- 683 00:45:01,899 --> 00:45:04,066 Yeah, it's a magical place. 684 00:45:04,077 --> 00:45:13,334 (♪♪♪) 685 00:45:13,411 --> 00:45:16,996 >> from wide sandy beaches 686 00:45:17,006 --> 00:45:20,758 To towering limestone cliffs, 687 00:45:20,835 --> 00:45:25,337 A journey up the world's longest coastal footpath 688 00:45:25,348 --> 00:45:29,842 Reveals spectacular landscapes 689 00:45:29,853 --> 00:45:33,095 Carved by the power of water. 690 00:45:33,106 --> 00:45:37,275 Rich marine life thriving amongst the cliffs. 691 00:45:37,351 --> 00:45:42,021 And a welsh culture rooted in life overlooking the ocean. 692 00:45:42,031 --> 00:45:45,533 >> the coast of wales draws this majesty with it. 693 00:45:45,610 --> 00:45:49,537 It's this place where you just repair and refresh and enjoy. 694 00:45:49,614 --> 00:45:52,874 You'll see plenty of sheep, you'll see these green hills. 695 00:45:52,950 --> 00:45:57,545 You'll see really mysterious peaks in the early morning mist. 696 00:45:57,622 --> 00:45:59,797 And I think if anybody was to come to wales 697 00:45:59,874 --> 00:46:03,459 And spend a majestic 3 months walking around wales, 698 00:46:03,470 --> 00:46:06,220 They'll leave feeling a little bit more welsh 699 00:46:06,297 --> 00:46:07,972 Than when they arrived. 700 00:46:08,049 --> 00:46:18,057 (♪♪♪) 701 00:46:18,067 --> 00:46:27,950 (♪♪♪) 61481

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