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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:02,036 --> 00:00:06,880 Narrator: On canada's east coast, the world's highest tides 2 00:00:06,957 --> 00:00:12,052 Move more than 100 billion tons of water. 3 00:00:12,221 --> 00:00:15,848 As the mighty atlantic ocean rises and falls. 4 00:00:19,219 --> 00:00:23,722 In just one day, more water will funnel through this bay than the 5 00:00:23,733 --> 00:00:30,070 Combined discharge of all freshwater rivers on earth. 6 00:00:30,239 --> 00:00:33,148 Phillips: T's always eroding away, it's always moving back and forth, 7 00:00:33,159 --> 00:00:34,566 It never stops. 8 00:00:34,577 --> 00:00:38,454 Just ceaseless tides continually reshaping the bay. 9 00:00:40,657 --> 00:00:43,792 Narrator: This is the bay of fundy. 10 00:00:48,257 --> 00:00:58,265 (♪♪♪) 11 00:00:58,342 --> 00:01:08,358 (♪♪♪) 12 00:01:08,360 --> 00:01:22,289 (♪♪♪) 13 00:01:29,465 --> 00:01:34,209 It's summer on the bay of fundy, and thousands of shorebirds 14 00:01:34,220 --> 00:01:39,139 Have arrived to fuel up during their great migration south. 15 00:01:48,976 --> 00:01:54,571 As the tide rolls in to fundy's coastal flatlands, 16 00:01:54,648 --> 00:01:59,401 Tiny migrant birds, called semipalmated sandpipers, 17 00:01:59,411 --> 00:02:05,833 Retreat to the shore, crowding on a sliver of beach. 18 00:02:08,495 --> 00:02:12,747 Morris-cormier: It's a unique scene on the shores because the beach, 19 00:02:12,758 --> 00:02:14,332 It looks like pebbles. 20 00:02:14,343 --> 00:02:17,010 But at high tide, it's possible you could be looking at a group 21 00:02:17,087 --> 00:02:20,180 Of say 20,000 little semipalmated sandpipers 22 00:02:20,391 --> 00:02:22,224 All bunched together. 23 00:02:23,352 --> 00:02:29,940 Narrator: Subtle brown, grey, and white coloring camouflages the birds. 24 00:02:30,017 --> 00:02:34,361 Semipalmated sandpipers are long-distance travelers. 25 00:02:34,438 --> 00:02:37,772 The bay of fundy is the only stop these sandpipers 26 00:02:37,783 --> 00:02:43,778 Will make before their 2,500-mile journey south. 27 00:02:43,789 --> 00:02:46,957 They arrive here from their breeding grounds in alaska 28 00:02:47,034 --> 00:02:50,794 And in the canadian sub-arctic having already flown a distance 29 00:02:50,871 --> 00:02:54,631 Of more than 2,000 miles. 30 00:02:54,708 --> 00:02:57,959 They haven't slept for three days. 31 00:02:57,970 --> 00:03:00,295 Morris-cormier: Once the birds arrive from their breeding grounds 32 00:03:00,306 --> 00:03:03,632 On our shores here, they weigh about 20g. 33 00:03:03,642 --> 00:03:05,976 That's less than an ounce, 34 00:03:06,053 --> 00:03:11,231 So about the same weight of a big strawberry. 35 00:03:11,442 --> 00:03:16,904 Narrator: Young, small, and hungry, the birds will spend the 36 00:03:16,980 --> 00:03:23,660 Next three weeks here restoring their depleted energy. 37 00:03:23,737 --> 00:03:26,905 They will fly for three days non-stop to reach their 38 00:03:26,916 --> 00:03:30,500 Wintering grounds in south america. 39 00:03:30,577 --> 00:03:33,411 Morris-cormier: I thought about the last time I was on an airplane. 40 00:03:33,422 --> 00:03:35,914 And the flight took about, oh, two hours 41 00:03:35,925 --> 00:03:38,083 And I felt pretty tired at the end. 42 00:03:38,093 --> 00:03:41,336 And I actually complained and-- so I'm very inspired by these 43 00:03:41,347 --> 00:03:44,264 Little semipalmated sandpipers, who manage, you know, 44 00:03:44,475 --> 00:03:48,268 Weighing only 40g, and maybe being only 16 cm long, 45 00:03:48,395 --> 00:03:53,357 That they can fly all the way to south america. 46 00:03:53,433 --> 00:03:55,609 Narrator: The birds will need to double their weight 47 00:03:55,686 --> 00:03:59,529 Before they set off on their journey to south america. 48 00:04:17,967 --> 00:04:20,458 The surging waters of the bay 49 00:04:20,469 --> 00:04:24,930 Sustain some of the richest ecosystems on the planet. 50 00:04:27,726 --> 00:04:30,885 Twice a day, high tides kick up nutrients 51 00:04:30,896 --> 00:04:33,563 From the depths of the atlantic 52 00:04:33,640 --> 00:04:38,977 That feed an abundance of marine life, like this humpback whale. 53 00:04:38,988 --> 00:04:45,483 While low tides reveal miles of ocean floor 54 00:04:45,494 --> 00:04:49,621 That teem with tiny creatures, like the mud snail. 55 00:04:53,002 --> 00:04:57,087 Each day more than 160 billion tons of water 56 00:04:57,164 --> 00:05:01,842 Funnel through the bay of fundy. 57 00:05:01,918 --> 00:05:05,178 It would take two years for the same amount of water 58 00:05:05,255 --> 00:05:10,434 To cascade over niagara falls. 59 00:05:10,510 --> 00:05:14,012 The bay of fundy stretches along 180 miles 60 00:05:14,023 --> 00:05:16,931 Of canada's east coast. 61 00:05:16,942 --> 00:05:22,446 Cradled between the provinces of new brunswick and nova scotia. 62 00:05:22,522 --> 00:05:26,950 Its mouth is 62 miles wide and reaches depths 63 00:05:27,027 --> 00:05:30,954 Of more than 700 feet. 64 00:05:31,031 --> 00:05:35,116 The name fundy is thought to date back to the 16th century 65 00:05:35,127 --> 00:05:41,381 When portuguese explorers first sailed across the bay. 66 00:05:41,592 --> 00:05:47,879 They called it rio fundo: Deep river. 67 00:05:47,890 --> 00:05:50,390 The bay's extremely high tides 68 00:05:50,467 --> 00:05:53,935 Are due to its length and unusual funnel shape. 69 00:05:59,526 --> 00:06:05,405 Water surging in from the atlantic flows into the basin. 70 00:06:05,482 --> 00:06:08,158 As the bay gets narrower and shallower, 71 00:06:08,235 --> 00:06:13,655 There is no place for the water to go but up. 72 00:06:13,665 --> 00:06:15,999 Currents will rise as high as 50 feet 73 00:06:16,076 --> 00:06:21,171 Along the coastline of the bay. 74 00:06:21,248 --> 00:06:23,006 The planet's oceanic tides 75 00:06:23,083 --> 00:06:28,428 Are controlled by the orbit of the moon. 76 00:06:28,555 --> 00:06:30,755 High tide occurs on the bay of fundy 77 00:06:30,766 --> 00:06:35,435 When the moon is directly overhead. 78 00:06:35,512 --> 00:06:39,097 The gravitational force of the moon pulls ocean currents 79 00:06:39,108 --> 00:06:43,944 Towards it, creating a high swell. 80 00:06:44,020 --> 00:06:47,614 Throughout the day, the earth and moon rotate away from 81 00:06:47,691 --> 00:06:52,944 One another, and the high swell is released like a slingshot, 82 00:06:52,955 --> 00:06:57,457 Causing a tidal wave into the bay. 83 00:06:57,584 --> 00:07:01,711 The time it takes for this wave to travel into the bay 84 00:07:01,788 --> 00:07:05,790 Then back out into the ocean is the same amount of time 85 00:07:05,801 --> 00:07:10,795 It takes the moon to orbit the earth. 86 00:07:10,806 --> 00:07:15,308 When the tide leaves the bay, it collides with the high swell 87 00:07:15,385 --> 00:07:19,980 Caused by the next gravitational pull of the moon, 88 00:07:20,056 --> 00:07:24,309 Once more forcing water into the bay again. 89 00:07:24,319 --> 00:07:26,486 Gaudet: It's called the seiche effect, or the bathtub effect, 90 00:07:26,697 --> 00:07:28,730 You know, when you get in a bathtub and the water will go 91 00:07:28,740 --> 00:07:32,901 Like this; if you sit quietly it levels out, if you push or move 92 00:07:32,911 --> 00:07:37,164 A lot the water goes up further, that's what the bay does. 93 00:07:37,240 --> 00:07:39,657 The seiche effect or the bathtub effect combined with the 94 00:07:39,668 --> 00:07:44,754 Shape of the bay causes the huge, huge tides. 95 00:07:44,831 --> 00:07:49,259 I'm completely enthralled with the amount of water 96 00:07:49,336 --> 00:07:51,336 That comes into this bay. 97 00:07:51,346 --> 00:07:56,349 It just blows my mind. 98 00:07:56,426 --> 00:07:59,019 Narrator: As the high tide leaves the bay, 99 00:07:59,095 --> 00:08:04,941 Fundy's muddy ocean floor is exposed once again. 100 00:08:05,018 --> 00:08:11,364 From a distance, the sea bottom appears deserted. 101 00:08:11,441 --> 00:08:16,536 Up close, the expansive tidal flats of the upper bay of fundy 102 00:08:16,663 --> 00:08:20,707 Teem with life. 103 00:08:20,784 --> 00:08:24,869 The extreme tides of the bay whip up a perfect blend of 104 00:08:24,880 --> 00:08:30,217 Water, oxygen, and mud, creating an ideal habitat 105 00:08:30,293 --> 00:08:35,713 For marine creatures like the mud snail. 106 00:08:35,724 --> 00:08:38,808 These coastal wetlands, called mudflats, 107 00:08:38,885 --> 00:08:42,896 Form in sheltered areas like bays and estuaries 108 00:08:42,973 --> 00:08:46,566 Where tides and rivers deposit mud. 109 00:08:46,643 --> 00:08:50,570 Morris-cormier: The mudflats may just look like mud to most people, 110 00:08:50,697 --> 00:08:56,743 But to me they're a velvety, expansive, unique habitat. 111 00:08:56,820 --> 00:08:59,988 Narrator: A complex food web of invertebrates and mollusks 112 00:08:59,998 --> 00:09:02,916 Is hidden in the mud. 113 00:09:06,713 --> 00:09:09,747 A nutrient-rich broth, called biofilm, 114 00:09:09,758 --> 00:09:13,718 Underpins the entire food web. 115 00:09:15,097 --> 00:09:18,932 This soupy liquid brims with microscopic organisms 116 00:09:19,009 --> 00:09:25,939 That rely on the sun's energy to grow. 117 00:09:26,016 --> 00:09:29,267 At low tide, a one-mile stretch of mudflat 118 00:09:29,278 --> 00:09:34,447 Receives direct sunlight, making these coastal wetlands 119 00:09:34,524 --> 00:09:40,370 One of the most vibrant ecosystems in the bay. 120 00:09:40,447 --> 00:09:45,283 Mud snails sail along the slushy surface. 121 00:09:45,294 --> 00:09:49,120 Each forages its own path through the muck 122 00:09:49,131 --> 00:09:53,717 To slurp up the nutrient-rich biofilm. 123 00:09:53,793 --> 00:09:56,136 Protected by a hard shell, 124 00:09:56,212 --> 00:10:01,641 Mud snails face little threat from predators. 125 00:10:01,768 --> 00:10:05,228 Tiny mud shrimp hide out of sight. 126 00:10:05,305 --> 00:10:11,309 They burrow in the mud to avoid being eaten by the sandpipers. 127 00:10:11,320 --> 00:10:14,904 There are as many as 600,000 mud shrimp 128 00:10:14,981 --> 00:10:20,827 Concealed in every square foot of brown sludge. 129 00:10:20,904 --> 00:10:24,331 But at high tide, this tasty seafood buffet 130 00:10:24,407 --> 00:10:28,084 Is closed for business. 131 00:10:28,161 --> 00:10:30,670 Thousands of hungry shorebirds 132 00:10:30,881 --> 00:10:35,675 Wait patiently for the tide to retreat. 133 00:10:35,844 --> 00:10:42,349 It will be another 6 hours before they can eat again. 134 00:10:42,425 --> 00:10:46,728 Playful sandpipers splash in a shallow tidal pool. 135 00:10:50,266 --> 00:10:55,695 For most, this time between meals is a crucial rest period. 136 00:10:55,822 --> 00:10:58,940 Morris-cormier: They come up onto the shore and a lot of times 137 00:10:58,950 --> 00:11:02,452 Stand on one foot, tuck their little beak in under their wing 138 00:11:02,529 --> 00:11:04,779 And remain as still as possible 139 00:11:04,790 --> 00:11:07,123 So that they can conserve energy. 140 00:11:07,200 --> 00:11:08,950 It's what we call roosting. 141 00:11:08,960 --> 00:11:12,203 The birds cannot swim or cannot eat at high tide, 142 00:11:12,214 --> 00:11:14,673 So they get in these massive protective flocks. 143 00:11:19,554 --> 00:11:22,722 Narrator: As the tide edges further ashore, 144 00:11:22,799 --> 00:11:27,310 The sandpipers crowd the pebbled beach. 145 00:11:27,387 --> 00:11:30,397 But while the shorebirds wait for low tide, 146 00:11:30,473 --> 00:11:35,443 Another bird is eyeing them. 147 00:11:37,647 --> 00:11:41,324 The wooded outskirts of the mudflats are the nesting grounds 148 00:11:41,401 --> 00:11:45,820 For the world's fastest predator. 149 00:11:45,831 --> 00:11:50,408 Nearly as fast as a formula one race car, the peregrine falcon 150 00:11:50,419 --> 00:11:54,713 Is one of the most accomplished hunters on the mudflats. 151 00:11:58,668 --> 00:12:01,928 The sandpipers sense danger. 152 00:12:03,590 --> 00:12:10,011 Morris-cormier: These little tiny birds move as one huge organism. 153 00:12:10,021 --> 00:12:11,771 I don't know how they do it. 154 00:12:11,940 --> 00:12:14,524 You can see 10,000 birds flying at the same time 155 00:12:14,601 --> 00:12:17,777 In this unison formation. 156 00:12:17,988 --> 00:12:22,115 It's kind of a dance in the sky, like an aerial ballet. 157 00:12:22,192 --> 00:12:24,451 Flying in these miraculous formations 158 00:12:24,527 --> 00:12:29,122 That I sometimes think look like the northern lights. 159 00:12:29,199 --> 00:12:31,624 So that is actually a defense mechanism 160 00:12:31,701 --> 00:12:34,461 For these little sandpipers. 161 00:12:35,380 --> 00:12:40,041 Narrator: Like a school of fish in the sky, the flock twists and turns 162 00:12:40,051 --> 00:12:44,095 Through the air, confusing its predators. 163 00:12:48,134 --> 00:12:53,062 But in this case the predator does not leave empty handed. 164 00:12:53,139 --> 00:12:56,974 This peregrine falcon flies off with a sandpiper 165 00:12:56,985 --> 00:12:59,778 Clutched in its talons. 166 00:13:01,981 --> 00:13:04,574 As the tide begins to ebb, 167 00:13:04,651 --> 00:13:07,985 The sandpipers follow the retreating water line, 168 00:13:07,996 --> 00:13:13,166 Bobbing their beaks in and out of the mud. 169 00:13:13,243 --> 00:13:15,576 The semipalmated sandpiper is named 170 00:13:15,587 --> 00:13:18,922 For the webbing between its toes. 171 00:13:18,998 --> 00:13:20,673 This tissue makes it well-equipped 172 00:13:20,750 --> 00:13:25,804 To tread along the surface of the mudflats without sinking. 173 00:13:28,258 --> 00:13:34,521 As the tide recedes, the birds spread out. 174 00:13:34,597 --> 00:13:38,933 Each mines its own section of the beach. 175 00:13:38,944 --> 00:13:41,528 Sandpipers use the tips of their bills 176 00:13:41,604 --> 00:13:46,691 To pluck invertebrates out of their burrows. 177 00:13:46,701 --> 00:13:50,695 One bird can eat as many as 20,000 mud shrimp 178 00:13:50,705 --> 00:13:55,124 In a single tidal cycle. 179 00:13:55,201 --> 00:13:59,287 With a 2500-mile journey on the horizon, 180 00:13:59,297 --> 00:14:04,542 Stocking up on food is essential for survival. 181 00:14:04,553 --> 00:14:08,129 Morris-cormier: Every single bird's vulnerability is felt, 182 00:14:08,139 --> 00:14:09,973 And you can connect with these little birds 183 00:14:10,049 --> 00:14:12,141 And be inspired by them. 184 00:14:16,222 --> 00:14:19,307 Narrator: As the sun descends on the gleaming mudflats 185 00:14:19,317 --> 00:14:25,062 And night sets in for most, the birds will continue 186 00:14:25,073 --> 00:14:28,867 To fuel up for their great migration. 187 00:14:45,135 --> 00:14:49,929 Across the bay, sandstone statues sculpted by the tides 188 00:14:50,056 --> 00:14:56,019 Stand on one of the bay of fundy's most iconic shorelines: 189 00:14:56,095 --> 00:14:59,689 The hopewell rocks. 190 00:14:59,766 --> 00:15:01,941 Gaudet: What we have here, that's better than many other places 191 00:15:02,110 --> 00:15:04,527 In the bay, is we have sea stacks that are great 192 00:15:04,604 --> 00:15:08,022 Measuring sticks for people to see the vertical manifestation 193 00:15:08,033 --> 00:15:11,910 Of the tide, which is absolutely amazing. 194 00:15:17,533 --> 00:15:22,536 Narrator: Here, the tides climb 46 feet up the sea stacks 195 00:15:22,547 --> 00:15:29,218 And wash over more than 6 miles of mudflats. 196 00:15:29,295 --> 00:15:33,056 Wind, rain, and the restless tides of the bay 197 00:15:33,132 --> 00:15:38,061 Carve these unique formations. 198 00:15:40,139 --> 00:15:43,650 Water trickles down vertical fissures in cliffs, 199 00:15:43,726 --> 00:15:46,277 Prying cracks open. 200 00:15:50,158 --> 00:15:54,494 Over thousands of years, large blocks of rock separate from 201 00:15:54,570 --> 00:16:01,668 Adjoining cliffs and powerful tides carve away at their base, 202 00:16:01,744 --> 00:16:04,420 Shaping the top-heavy formations 203 00:16:04,497 --> 00:16:08,383 Known today as the flowerpot rocks. 204 00:16:10,178 --> 00:16:16,015 The term came from a single sea stack shaped like a flowerpot. 205 00:16:16,142 --> 00:16:19,769 The nickname stuck, and today, all sea stacks 206 00:16:19,846 --> 00:16:26,100 In the bay of fundy are referred to as flowerpot rocks, 207 00:16:26,111 --> 00:16:30,279 Though only one truly resembles a flowerpot. 208 00:16:30,356 --> 00:16:33,858 Gaudet: Well, there's one person who's responsible for this, 209 00:16:33,868 --> 00:16:36,035 And guess who it was: Robert ripley. 210 00:16:36,162 --> 00:16:39,038 Ripley's believe it or not was here in the 1930s. 211 00:16:39,165 --> 00:16:41,699 I don't know if he coined the expression, but he certainly 212 00:16:41,710 --> 00:16:45,461 Popularized it, by calling that rock the flowerpot rock, 213 00:16:45,538 --> 00:16:48,456 And ever since then, people have referred to them 214 00:16:48,466 --> 00:16:51,050 As flowerpot rocks. 215 00:16:51,127 --> 00:16:57,140 Narrator: Each of the 17 flowerpot rocks is as unique as a fingerprint. 216 00:17:07,193 --> 00:17:11,070 As the tide retreats to expose the mudflats, 217 00:17:11,197 --> 00:17:15,908 Visitors are able to walk on miles of ocean floor that 218 00:17:15,985 --> 00:17:20,413 Just hours ago were submerged deep below the atlantic. 219 00:17:24,252 --> 00:17:28,496 A deep-set cave hollowed out by the powerful force of the tide 220 00:17:28,506 --> 00:17:32,833 Accompanies the sea stacks. 221 00:17:32,844 --> 00:17:36,587 Gaudet: One of my favorite spots is in the huge sea cave, 222 00:17:36,598 --> 00:17:40,349 And that is the most glowing or the best example 223 00:17:40,426 --> 00:17:42,593 Of appreciation of how high the tide comes 224 00:17:42,604 --> 00:17:44,428 'cause you're standing up there where those holes are 225 00:17:44,439 --> 00:17:46,105 And you're looking down at low tide and you're thinking 226 00:17:46,182 --> 00:17:50,068 The water actually comes up here and made these holes. 227 00:17:53,948 --> 00:17:56,783 Narrator: The surging waters of fundy's ceaseless tides 228 00:17:56,859 --> 00:18:01,278 Wear away softer layers of sandstone rock, 229 00:18:01,289 --> 00:18:04,332 Leaving the tougher layers unsupported. 230 00:18:07,954 --> 00:18:12,456 Eventually, chunks of the harder rock collapse, creating 231 00:18:12,467 --> 00:18:20,098 Small caves that grow larger as pounding waters erode the rock. 232 00:18:23,978 --> 00:18:26,470 Barnacles and snails are left exposed 233 00:18:26,481 --> 00:18:29,649 On the porous sandstone cave. 234 00:18:34,313 --> 00:18:39,158 Seaweed that stood tall in an underwater forest just hours ago 235 00:18:39,369 --> 00:18:45,998 Now becomes a carpet, soaking up the sunlight it needs to grow. 236 00:18:46,075 --> 00:18:49,168 And the red cliffs of the bay contrast 237 00:18:49,337 --> 00:18:52,880 With the bright green mosses that blanket the caves. 238 00:18:59,347 --> 00:19:01,764 It is a marine habitat, 239 00:19:01,841 --> 00:19:05,434 Temporarily accessible to terrestrial visitors. 240 00:19:08,857 --> 00:19:12,191 Soon, their footsteps will be erased by the rising tide 241 00:19:12,268 --> 00:19:14,518 Of the bay. 242 00:19:14,529 --> 00:19:19,198 And the caves will once again fill with water. 243 00:19:19,275 --> 00:19:20,774 Gaudet: Walking the beach is fascinating 244 00:19:20,785 --> 00:19:22,276 And seeing it at high tide is fascinating. 245 00:19:22,287 --> 00:19:25,362 And another component to that is going kayaking. 246 00:19:25,373 --> 00:19:28,541 Because the kayakers can go to places and touch things 247 00:19:28,618 --> 00:19:33,287 That you as a pedestrian cannot. 248 00:19:33,298 --> 00:19:35,956 Narrator: Amanda harrington is an adventure guide 249 00:19:35,967 --> 00:19:39,043 And avid sea kayaker who has paddled these waters 250 00:19:39,053 --> 00:19:41,721 Since she was a teen. 251 00:19:41,797 --> 00:19:44,381 Harrington: Just to be out in the nature and to be on the water, 252 00:19:44,392 --> 00:19:46,050 I get to share the nature that people 253 00:19:46,060 --> 00:19:48,052 Don't get to see on a regular basis. 254 00:19:48,062 --> 00:19:50,387 It's kind of unexplored because the bay of fundy 255 00:19:50,398 --> 00:19:53,974 Is very unpredictable half the time. 256 00:19:53,985 --> 00:19:57,570 Narrator: The climate on the bay of fundy is temperamental 257 00:19:57,647 --> 00:20:00,198 And can change in a heartbeat. 258 00:20:01,367 --> 00:20:04,568 Sudden fog can disorient and threaten the safety 259 00:20:04,579 --> 00:20:07,246 Of those on the water. 260 00:20:07,457 --> 00:20:08,998 Harrington: You're always constantly thinking ahead, 261 00:20:09,075 --> 00:20:11,000 Because you have to be one step ahead of the bay of fundy, 262 00:20:11,077 --> 00:20:14,086 Because you never know what it can throw at you from day to day. 263 00:20:14,163 --> 00:20:19,258 Narrator: As fog rolls over the bay, a thick blanket of mist 264 00:20:19,335 --> 00:20:24,263 Cloaks the dense, coastal forest. 265 00:20:24,474 --> 00:20:27,266 The feathery needles of towering red spruce 266 00:20:27,343 --> 00:20:30,427 Comb through the particles of mist, 267 00:20:30,438 --> 00:20:34,523 Collecting water on the tip of each needle. 268 00:20:36,611 --> 00:20:42,690 These drops fall onto a canopied forest floor, watering a dense, 269 00:20:42,700 --> 00:20:45,409 Green carpet of moss. 270 00:20:47,455 --> 00:20:50,957 The acadian fog forest of fundy national park 271 00:20:51,033 --> 00:20:56,295 Is the intersection where boreal forest species from the north 272 00:20:56,464 --> 00:21:00,791 Meet temperate trees from the south. 273 00:21:00,802 --> 00:21:06,264 It is a rare and special environment shaped by the tides. 274 00:21:08,559 --> 00:21:15,389 High tides on the bay of fundy keep the water cool year round. 275 00:21:15,400 --> 00:21:20,319 Twice a day, cold water from the atlantic moves in and out 276 00:21:20,488 --> 00:21:22,280 Of the bay. 277 00:21:23,491 --> 00:21:27,410 With no time to warm up, water temperatures here change 278 00:21:27,486 --> 00:21:29,653 By less than 20 degrees fahrenheit 279 00:21:29,664 --> 00:21:32,039 Between summer and winter. 280 00:21:34,493 --> 00:21:38,337 The acadian fog forest clings to the coastline, 281 00:21:38,506 --> 00:21:43,000 Thriving on the fog exhaled from the mouth of the bay 282 00:21:43,011 --> 00:21:46,837 As humid summer air hits the cool water, 283 00:21:46,848 --> 00:21:51,434 Initiating the water cycle of this park. 284 00:21:51,510 --> 00:21:55,929 Phillips: You get this beautiful rocky cliff habitat and areas 285 00:21:55,940 --> 00:21:58,441 Where the forest comes down and meets the ocean. 286 00:21:58,517 --> 00:22:03,020 These beautiful, majestic, huge estuaries that have lots of 287 00:22:03,031 --> 00:22:05,948 Salt marsh, where so many birds and other animals 288 00:22:06,025 --> 00:22:09,026 Use as refuge. 289 00:22:09,037 --> 00:22:12,112 There's just so much diversity along the coast. 290 00:22:12,123 --> 00:22:15,666 And the tide is constantly reshaping those things. 291 00:22:17,545 --> 00:22:21,121 Narrator: The fog forest stretches from the marine coast 292 00:22:21,132 --> 00:22:25,384 Of the bay of fundy up to the caledonia highlands 293 00:22:25,461 --> 00:22:29,555 Nearly 1000 feet above the coastline. 294 00:22:35,304 --> 00:22:39,065 A high wetland lake is crowded with mosses 295 00:22:39,141 --> 00:22:42,109 And littered with deadwood. 296 00:22:45,490 --> 00:22:49,116 Dragonflies buzz around the coarse grasses. 297 00:22:52,488 --> 00:22:57,917 A determined frog sits still in the shallow water. 298 00:22:59,995 --> 00:23:04,998 It waits for the right moment to pounce on its prey. 299 00:23:05,009 --> 00:23:09,053 One of the many insects that hover over the lake. 300 00:23:11,173 --> 00:23:15,059 Life on the marshland is hard. 301 00:23:17,188 --> 00:23:22,108 The bog is highly acidic, low in nutrients, 302 00:23:22,184 --> 00:23:27,020 And home to some surprising predators. 303 00:23:29,859 --> 00:23:33,619 The carnivorous sundew plant uses sticky secretions 304 00:23:33,696 --> 00:23:35,204 To trap insects. 305 00:23:37,875 --> 00:23:41,785 The juice of the pitcher plant attracts, then dissolves, 306 00:23:41,796 --> 00:23:44,088 Unsuspecting prey. 307 00:23:45,633 --> 00:23:49,301 These bog plants have evolved in fascinating ways, 308 00:23:49,378 --> 00:23:51,637 Ensuring their survival. 309 00:23:53,632 --> 00:23:56,809 But the star of the bog is the green carpet 310 00:23:56,886 --> 00:24:02,481 Under these grasses, called sphagnum moss. 311 00:24:02,692 --> 00:24:07,319 Capable of soaking up to 20 times its weight in water, 312 00:24:07,396 --> 00:24:10,990 Sphagnum moss is so absorbent it was used 313 00:24:11,066 --> 00:24:15,494 To bandage wounded soldiers in the first world war. 314 00:24:17,656 --> 00:24:21,158 The spongy moss is the foundation of this marshland 315 00:24:21,169 --> 00:24:26,255 And regulates the park's most precious resource: Water. 316 00:24:29,084 --> 00:24:33,846 During the rainy season the moss soaks up water. 317 00:24:35,925 --> 00:24:40,186 During a drought, the water drains out of the bog, 318 00:24:40,262 --> 00:24:45,065 Gradually seeping into small streams below. 319 00:24:46,194 --> 00:24:50,946 Water descends from the caledonia highlands plateau, 320 00:24:51,023 --> 00:24:54,825 Cascading over waterfalls into a deep-set ravine. 321 00:24:57,288 --> 00:25:01,615 A tiny community of creatures and plants sprayed by the 322 00:25:01,626 --> 00:25:07,713 Gentle mist of the waterfall thrives under the canopy. 323 00:25:09,124 --> 00:25:12,092 This is dickson brook falls. 324 00:25:14,463 --> 00:25:18,215 Its steep valley walls shelter a 325 00:25:18,226 --> 00:25:21,644 Variety of shade-tolerant plants, each fighting 326 00:25:21,720 --> 00:25:26,065 For a small piece of real estate in a competitive market. 327 00:25:27,893 --> 00:25:31,061 Phillips: Just like the forest, you've got different levels of the canopy, 328 00:25:31,072 --> 00:25:34,573 Different tree species that are able to outcompete others 329 00:25:34,650 --> 00:25:38,160 And get up into the light, 330 00:25:38,237 --> 00:25:39,903 But the same thing happens in the understory. 331 00:25:39,914 --> 00:25:42,581 And down at dickson falls you have lots of different ferns 332 00:25:42,792 --> 00:25:45,909 That have the ability to grow up much higher than the mosses 333 00:25:45,920 --> 00:25:48,087 And lichens around them. 334 00:25:52,176 --> 00:25:57,596 Narrator: The rock polypody fern has a competitive edge: 335 00:25:57,673 --> 00:26:00,349 It grows straight out of the cliff, 336 00:26:00,426 --> 00:26:03,686 Shading out other species below. 337 00:26:03,762 --> 00:26:06,680 Phillips: All these species they start off very shade-tolerant themselves 338 00:26:06,691 --> 00:26:08,023 Because they're under the canopy of the trees. 339 00:26:08,100 --> 00:26:10,776 But then as you go down through the layers, 340 00:26:10,853 --> 00:26:12,611 You have to be more and more shade-tolerant 341 00:26:12,738 --> 00:26:16,023 And survive with less and less light. 342 00:26:16,033 --> 00:26:20,786 Narrator: Mosses like sphagnum prefer cool, shady conditions 343 00:26:20,863 --> 00:26:24,206 And dominate this ravine. 344 00:26:26,877 --> 00:26:32,289 A partnership between fungi and algae creates a special organism 345 00:26:32,300 --> 00:26:34,958 Called lichen. 346 00:26:34,969 --> 00:26:40,130 Though lichens grow everywhere, they go largely unnoticed. 347 00:26:40,141 --> 00:26:43,216 Phillips: If you look at the bark of most trees, 348 00:26:43,227 --> 00:26:45,060 You're not actually looking at the bark of the tree; 349 00:26:45,137 --> 00:26:47,396 You're just looking at a community of lichens. 350 00:26:47,473 --> 00:26:50,649 And the closer you get to that tree you'll find completely 351 00:26:50,860 --> 00:26:52,809 Different communities on the different species 352 00:26:52,820 --> 00:26:55,154 And those lichens are all competing for space 353 00:26:55,230 --> 00:26:58,398 On the tree, on that bark, or on a rock, 354 00:26:58,409 --> 00:26:59,983 Or wherever they're growing. 355 00:26:59,994 --> 00:27:04,905 There's just an insane amount of competition. 356 00:27:04,915 --> 00:27:09,001 Narrator: The competitive spirit of the lichens and plants of the forest 357 00:27:09,078 --> 00:27:12,671 Sustains the health of dickson brook falls 358 00:27:12,798 --> 00:27:16,166 And regulates its water cycle. 359 00:27:16,177 --> 00:27:19,928 Phillips: You'll see that the water in that brook is just crystal clear 360 00:27:20,005 --> 00:27:23,682 Because this community all around there is capturing the 361 00:27:23,759 --> 00:27:27,686 Fog, holding on to the moisture, filtering that rainwater, 362 00:27:27,855 --> 00:27:31,690 Filtering everything as it goes down through. 363 00:27:31,767 --> 00:27:34,818 And it all starts with that plant community. 364 00:27:38,783 --> 00:27:43,952 Narrator: The waters of the brook flow into larger and rockier rivers. 365 00:27:49,368 --> 00:27:54,046 The beds of gravel below these waters are important habitats 366 00:27:54,123 --> 00:27:59,009 For spawning fish like the atlantic salmon. 367 00:28:02,890 --> 00:28:06,475 Finally, these rivers flow out into estuaries 368 00:28:06,552 --> 00:28:13,399 Where they feed back into the mouth of the bay. 369 00:28:13,475 --> 00:28:17,820 One of nature's expert fishers, the great blue heron, 370 00:28:17,896 --> 00:28:20,489 Scans the estuary for prey. 371 00:28:28,499 --> 00:28:35,587 As the tide pulls away, shallow waters reveal enticing prey: 372 00:28:35,664 --> 00:28:39,758 Like small fish headed for inland rivers to spawn. 373 00:28:46,934 --> 00:28:49,768 The heron patrols the bay. 374 00:28:52,606 --> 00:28:59,862 No fish comes within range, and it decides to try its luck 375 00:28:59,938 --> 00:29:02,239 On the other side of the channel. 376 00:29:07,121 --> 00:29:10,914 The heron has a wingspan of nearly seven feet. 377 00:29:12,626 --> 00:29:16,211 Its long neck tucks into an s shape in flight 378 00:29:16,288 --> 00:29:18,756 For greater aerodynamics. 379 00:29:21,135 --> 00:29:25,220 The heron seems to have spotted its prey. 380 00:29:33,063 --> 00:29:39,568 Soon, this estuary will once again fill with water, 381 00:29:39,645 --> 00:29:43,897 And a thick fog will roll in with the tide, 382 00:29:43,908 --> 00:29:48,327 Exhaling its misty breath into the acadian forest, 383 00:29:48,403 --> 00:29:52,289 Starting this water cycle all over again. 384 00:29:55,920 --> 00:29:58,921 Across the bay, the retreating tide 385 00:29:58,997 --> 00:30:04,635 Reveals a much different forest, fossil by fossil. 386 00:30:06,931 --> 00:30:09,848 These are the joggins fossil cliffs. 387 00:30:14,096 --> 00:30:18,857 Traces of ancient plants that once stood as tall as 10-story 388 00:30:18,934 --> 00:30:23,028 Buildings are fossilized in the walls of these cliffs. 389 00:30:26,441 --> 00:30:31,111 This jagged bluff, nine miles long, provides a window 390 00:30:31,121 --> 00:30:36,917 Into our planet's past more than 300 million years ago. 391 00:30:40,130 --> 00:30:43,632 A time known as the carboniferous period. 392 00:30:50,099 --> 00:30:55,143 Millions of years ago, the mosses of fundy national park 393 00:30:55,220 --> 00:30:57,563 Would have looked much different. 394 00:30:58,732 --> 00:31:00,232 Faulkner: The typical mosses that you would see 395 00:31:00,309 --> 00:31:02,484 Growing on the forest floor, that's the size they are now. 396 00:31:03,237 --> 00:31:05,654 But back in the carboniferous, tissues that grew like that 397 00:31:05,731 --> 00:31:11,159 Grew up to 30 meters in height or higher. 398 00:31:11,236 --> 00:31:15,414 Narrator: Unlike the plants in shaded dickson brooke falls, 399 00:31:15,490 --> 00:31:19,576 The mosses that grew in this sun-filled ancient forest 400 00:31:19,587 --> 00:31:24,831 Had no need to compete for sunlight and space, 401 00:31:24,842 --> 00:31:28,510 So they grew to monster proportions. 402 00:31:35,603 --> 00:31:37,344 These supersized plants 403 00:31:37,354 --> 00:31:42,774 Generated high concentrations of oxygen: 50 percent more 404 00:31:42,851 --> 00:31:46,361 Than what is in the earth's atmosphere today. 405 00:31:49,024 --> 00:31:54,119 In this hyper-oxygenated environment, insects thrived. 406 00:31:57,166 --> 00:31:59,366 Most insects are able to take in oxygen 407 00:31:59,376 --> 00:32:03,295 At a rate much higher than other creatures. 408 00:32:05,215 --> 00:32:07,299 They do not have lungs. 409 00:32:07,376 --> 00:32:09,968 Instead, tubes all over their bodies 410 00:32:10,137 --> 00:32:13,263 Deliver oxygen to each cell. 411 00:32:15,467 --> 00:32:18,635 With more oxygen penetrating their deepest cells, 412 00:32:18,646 --> 00:32:24,149 Insects evolved to horror-movie dimensions. 413 00:32:24,226 --> 00:32:26,985 Faulkner: What we're looking at here on this slab of sandstone 414 00:32:27,112 --> 00:32:30,489 Are two rows of ripples that you can pretty distinctly see 415 00:32:30,565 --> 00:32:32,991 Right here, almost looks like a stroller or something 416 00:32:33,118 --> 00:32:34,651 Was pushed over this rock. 417 00:32:34,662 --> 00:32:37,153 But these are track ways called diplichnites, 418 00:32:37,164 --> 00:32:40,165 Formed by a giant millipede called arthropleura, 419 00:32:40,242 --> 00:32:42,417 This is actually the largest land invertebrate 420 00:32:42,494 --> 00:32:45,662 That we know has ever existed. 421 00:32:45,673 --> 00:32:50,509 Narrator: This monstrous millipede grew as long as 7 feet. 422 00:32:55,849 --> 00:32:59,643 The carboniferous period is known as the coal age. 423 00:33:02,272 --> 00:33:06,266 Over millions of years, heat and pressure converted 424 00:33:06,276 --> 00:33:11,655 Prehistoric plants into the coal still used as fuel today. 425 00:33:13,367 --> 00:33:16,284 Faulkner: What coal is, it's not a rock, it's actually just the carbon 426 00:33:16,361 --> 00:33:18,203 That's left over from ancient vegetation. 427 00:33:18,280 --> 00:33:20,288 So it's a huge mat of ancient vegetation 428 00:33:20,365 --> 00:33:23,291 That had a chance to rot as one unit. 429 00:33:23,368 --> 00:33:25,043 So peat moss essentially. 430 00:33:26,371 --> 00:33:28,046 In nova scotia, there's been a lot of coal mining, 431 00:33:28,173 --> 00:33:30,382 So that's what a lot of people here had known 432 00:33:30,459 --> 00:33:32,009 For a very long time. 433 00:33:38,809 --> 00:33:41,393 Reid: I started in the coal business in 1939 434 00:33:41,470 --> 00:33:45,805 And I did that till 1960. 435 00:33:45,816 --> 00:33:48,483 You see the timber sand in there? 436 00:33:48,560 --> 00:33:52,320 My dad used to work there. 437 00:33:52,397 --> 00:33:57,909 What we're looking at here is a drain from the old coal mine. 438 00:33:57,986 --> 00:34:02,164 This used to be the old pier that they used to load coal 439 00:34:02,240 --> 00:34:05,333 When the ships come in for coal. 440 00:34:05,410 --> 00:34:09,087 When everybody used coal for cooking, eat-- 441 00:34:09,214 --> 00:34:11,089 But them days is gone. 442 00:34:16,671 --> 00:34:19,264 I can't walk this beach with my head up. 443 00:34:19,341 --> 00:34:21,341 My head is always down looking. 444 00:34:21,351 --> 00:34:26,104 And if I see something I think is good to pick up, 445 00:34:26,273 --> 00:34:28,774 Like a piece like this. 446 00:34:28,850 --> 00:34:33,269 Now, that piece used to be the bottom of the lake at one time, 447 00:34:33,280 --> 00:34:36,114 And it's-- you turn it over, 448 00:34:36,325 --> 00:34:39,534 You see all the little-- that's feces. 449 00:34:39,611 --> 00:34:40,610 Fish poop. 450 00:34:40,621 --> 00:34:43,279 That's 300 million years old. 451 00:34:43,290 --> 00:34:45,624 See that little cracks in there? 452 00:34:45,700 --> 00:34:48,794 You keep tapping it, it'll break open for ya, 453 00:34:48,870 --> 00:34:53,215 And I'll show ya what's inside. 454 00:34:53,291 --> 00:34:55,625 You see there's some more stuff inside there. 455 00:34:55,636 --> 00:34:56,968 And when you break a rock and look at it, 456 00:34:57,045 --> 00:34:59,221 You're the first person that ever seen that. 457 00:34:59,297 --> 00:35:02,140 You find scales, you find teeth. 458 00:35:02,267 --> 00:35:04,884 Wow. Just like opening a storybook. 459 00:35:04,895 --> 00:35:06,386 And it's a great feeling. 460 00:35:06,396 --> 00:35:09,305 Stand and look and wondering what took place back then, 461 00:35:09,316 --> 00:35:11,149 300 million years ago. 462 00:35:11,360 --> 00:35:13,643 That's why I love it here. 463 00:35:13,654 --> 00:35:14,986 I keep looking and wondering. 464 00:35:15,063 --> 00:35:17,155 Scratching my head all the time. 465 00:35:17,324 --> 00:35:20,158 Trying to figure out what took place. 466 00:35:20,285 --> 00:35:22,661 What it really looked like. 467 00:35:22,737 --> 00:35:26,573 It was mossy, freshwater lakes. 468 00:35:26,583 --> 00:35:28,908 The plants was huge. 469 00:35:28,919 --> 00:35:32,170 Even the bugs we find is big. 470 00:35:32,339 --> 00:35:36,258 Not like today. 471 00:35:36,334 --> 00:35:39,594 I found a mayfly, back then they were that wide. 472 00:35:39,671 --> 00:35:43,598 Today they're like a mosquito. 473 00:35:43,675 --> 00:35:49,762 Narrator: In 2008 this coal-age galapagos was named a world heritage site 474 00:35:49,773 --> 00:35:54,601 For its rich fossil record. 475 00:35:54,611 --> 00:36:00,157 The first major discovery was made on this beach in 1859. 476 00:36:02,286 --> 00:36:06,029 An associate of charles darwin used dynamite to excavate 477 00:36:06,039 --> 00:36:11,459 The bones of the earliest known reptile ever discovered. 478 00:36:11,536 --> 00:36:15,288 It was the missing link between amphibians and vertebrates 479 00:36:15,299 --> 00:36:17,966 That moved onto land. 480 00:36:18,043 --> 00:36:22,295 Today, the cliffs are excavated naturally 481 00:36:22,306 --> 00:36:25,798 By fundy's 40 foot-tall tides, 482 00:36:25,809 --> 00:36:30,979 Allowing researchers to pull fossils without digging. 483 00:36:33,817 --> 00:36:35,066 Faulkner: Way back during the carboniferous, 484 00:36:35,143 --> 00:36:36,902 Joggins was situated right in the center 485 00:36:36,978 --> 00:36:39,479 Between the newly formed appalachian range. 486 00:36:39,489 --> 00:36:41,239 So huge appalachian mountains all around us. 487 00:36:41,366 --> 00:36:42,991 We were on a sinking block of land 488 00:36:43,068 --> 00:36:44,659 Between some mountains actually. 489 00:36:44,736 --> 00:36:46,244 So we were the lowest point. 490 00:36:46,321 --> 00:36:48,496 And all of the sediment that was coming down from those mountains 491 00:36:48,573 --> 00:36:50,740 And being carried by all of the meandering rivers 492 00:36:50,751 --> 00:36:52,250 And the fast rivers and everything like that 493 00:36:52,327 --> 00:36:55,328 Was all being deposited at the lowest point, which was us. 494 00:36:55,339 --> 00:36:58,081 So we get so many layers of rock there because 495 00:36:58,091 --> 00:37:01,259 Of all that sedimentation that was constantly happening. 496 00:37:04,005 --> 00:37:06,339 This formation didn't really have a choice 497 00:37:06,350 --> 00:37:09,267 But to buckle into that basin. 498 00:37:09,344 --> 00:37:12,929 It's bowl-shaped and that's why these layers are tilted. 499 00:37:12,940 --> 00:37:15,941 They're all in chronological order so you can walk back 500 00:37:16,017 --> 00:37:18,768 15 million years by going straight up the beach 501 00:37:18,779 --> 00:37:20,946 And not digging down. 502 00:37:21,022 --> 00:37:23,606 Every kilometer is a million years. 503 00:37:23,617 --> 00:37:25,533 You're actually walking through the evolution of some groups 504 00:37:25,610 --> 00:37:26,826 Of plants and animals. 505 00:37:33,627 --> 00:37:37,879 Narrator: Twelve miles off the coast of nova scotia is a reminder 506 00:37:37,956 --> 00:37:43,543 Of the bay of fundy's turbulent geological past. 507 00:37:43,553 --> 00:37:45,628 Isle haute. 508 00:37:45,639 --> 00:37:48,306 Ostermann: That's part of the fun of going there. 509 00:37:48,433 --> 00:37:49,975 To get a step back in time 510 00:37:50,051 --> 00:37:53,061 And understand a little bit about it. 511 00:37:53,138 --> 00:37:55,888 It's a special place in the middle of the bay of fundy, 512 00:37:55,899 --> 00:38:00,277 17 kilometer out in the fog here behind me. 513 00:38:00,645 --> 00:38:04,647 Narrator: More than 150 million years ago 514 00:38:04,658 --> 00:38:10,570 The ancient supercontinent of pangea broke apart. 515 00:38:10,580 --> 00:38:16,167 A rift formed, creating two landmasses: One including 516 00:38:16,244 --> 00:38:20,755 Present-day africa; the other including north america. 517 00:38:23,468 --> 00:38:27,012 As the rift pushed the two plates apart, 518 00:38:27,088 --> 00:38:30,515 The pressure triggered volcanic eruptions, 519 00:38:30,592 --> 00:38:35,437 Burying southern nova scotia under a layer of magma. 520 00:38:37,849 --> 00:38:43,111 Over time, lava solidified into basalt. 521 00:38:43,188 --> 00:38:48,074 The entire island is made up of this volcanic rock. 522 00:38:50,537 --> 00:38:53,371 Isle haute is one of the most prominent islands 523 00:38:53,540 --> 00:38:55,957 In the upper bay of fundy. 524 00:38:58,795 --> 00:39:03,465 Its thousand-foot vertical cliffs rise from the water, 525 00:39:03,541 --> 00:39:06,676 Veiled by a sheet of thick fundy fog. 526 00:39:10,807 --> 00:39:14,601 A colony of grey seals patrols the waters, 527 00:39:18,973 --> 00:39:23,610 And lush, green vegetation claims the land. 528 00:39:25,647 --> 00:39:31,368 Ostermann: Beauty and dramatic rock formations, seals popping up. 529 00:39:34,239 --> 00:39:35,571 The scent. 530 00:39:35,582 --> 00:39:39,000 It is just a very unique spot. 531 00:39:39,077 --> 00:39:41,252 And then we're in a busy world, where there's actually 532 00:39:41,329 --> 00:39:46,091 Very few spots where there's no development, no action, 533 00:39:46,167 --> 00:39:48,510 It's just so calm. 534 00:39:48,586 --> 00:39:53,431 And just feel it, it has allure and a meaning 535 00:39:53,642 --> 00:39:55,558 For people around the bay. 536 00:39:57,345 --> 00:40:00,680 Narrator: Though now a peaceful retreat, isle haute 537 00:40:00,690 --> 00:40:05,110 And its surrounding waters were once among the most treacherous 538 00:40:05,186 --> 00:40:08,154 Places in the upper bay of fundy. 539 00:40:10,033 --> 00:40:15,194 In 1604, the french explorer samuel de champlain 540 00:40:15,205 --> 00:40:17,414 First laid eyes on the island. 541 00:40:19,033 --> 00:40:22,201 He called it isle haute, high island, 542 00:40:22,212 --> 00:40:25,964 For its tall, vertical cliffs. 543 00:40:26,040 --> 00:40:30,218 Ostermann: I know now it was not foggy when he found it. 544 00:40:30,295 --> 00:40:32,044 He would never have made it then. 545 00:40:32,055 --> 00:40:35,473 He would either have grounded his ship and been in bad shape 546 00:40:35,642 --> 00:40:37,216 Or not found it at all. 547 00:40:37,227 --> 00:40:41,062 It's fairly small, like just an kilometer-and-a-half in length 548 00:40:41,139 --> 00:40:46,151 And much less in width, so a slim little baby out there. 549 00:40:49,698 --> 00:40:53,983 Narrator: In the golden age of the sail, nearly everything moved by 550 00:40:53,994 --> 00:41:00,990 Way of water, and isle haute was an obstacle for passing ships. 551 00:41:01,001 --> 00:41:05,503 Ostermann: There is a perilous place around isle haute. 552 00:41:05,630 --> 00:41:09,165 It has a long hook shape out in the bay of fundy. 553 00:41:09,176 --> 00:41:11,751 So you have deep water on each side, 554 00:41:11,761 --> 00:41:14,679 And then this gravel bar sticks out. 555 00:41:14,756 --> 00:41:18,600 And that can be a very difficult to navigate around 556 00:41:18,676 --> 00:41:22,103 And it creates tidal rips at certain conditions. 557 00:41:22,180 --> 00:41:26,274 So it was a very dangerous place to navigate around. 558 00:41:29,020 --> 00:41:33,031 Narrator: For nearly 100 years, a lighthouse on the island 559 00:41:33,107 --> 00:41:38,036 Alerted incoming ships to danger. 560 00:41:38,112 --> 00:41:40,788 But the solitary life of a lighthouse keeper 561 00:41:40,865 --> 00:41:43,666 On remote isle haute was a hard one. 562 00:41:45,378 --> 00:41:47,203 When the lighthouse burnt down, 563 00:41:47,214 --> 00:41:51,132 The island became once again uninhabited. 564 00:42:00,977 --> 00:42:04,562 Back on shore, one of the oldest lighthouses 565 00:42:04,689 --> 00:42:09,141 On the bay of fundy coast still stands, 566 00:42:09,152 --> 00:42:13,821 Reminding mariners of the many ships that have wrecked here. 567 00:42:18,820 --> 00:42:21,737 One of the most hazardous stretches on the waters 568 00:42:21,748 --> 00:42:27,585 Of the upper bay of fundy is cape enrage, 569 00:42:27,796 --> 00:42:30,838 Named for the turbulent waters that pass over 570 00:42:30,915 --> 00:42:35,760 This jagged reef jutting sharply into the bay. 571 00:42:39,507 --> 00:42:42,341 For one hundred years, the bay of fundy 572 00:42:42,352 --> 00:42:47,680 Served as a marine highway that connected canada's east coast 573 00:42:47,691 --> 00:42:52,944 To the world's major seaports. 574 00:42:53,021 --> 00:42:58,700 People marked time by the turn of the tide, and still do today. 575 00:43:00,695 --> 00:43:04,030 Ostermann: Everybody who makes their living on the water like I do, 576 00:43:04,040 --> 00:43:07,700 They know that you have to work when it's possible. 577 00:43:07,711 --> 00:43:10,795 The fishermen here know it more than most. 578 00:43:10,872 --> 00:43:15,091 (foghorn blowing) 579 00:43:20,140 --> 00:43:24,726 Narrator: In the early morning, a colorful fleet of fishing boats 580 00:43:24,802 --> 00:43:29,397 Waits in the bay for the tide to rise 581 00:43:29,474 --> 00:43:33,318 And fill the empty harbor with water. 582 00:43:40,744 --> 00:43:43,828 Withers: For us here, we don't have a 9 to 5 job. 583 00:43:43,905 --> 00:43:47,248 We run by the tides. 584 00:43:48,409 --> 00:43:52,253 Noftell: You only have so much time to get the boat in, boat out, 585 00:43:52,330 --> 00:43:54,830 And then when you're out on the water, you're dictated 586 00:43:54,841 --> 00:43:58,668 By the bay; there's no way to get around it. 587 00:44:01,506 --> 00:44:06,351 The tides govern your lifestyle, they govern the job, 588 00:44:06,427 --> 00:44:10,429 And some days you think you're coming in at a certain time, 589 00:44:10,440 --> 00:44:13,107 You miss the tide, guess what? 590 00:44:13,184 --> 00:44:14,359 You're out for another 12 hours, 591 00:44:14,435 --> 00:44:17,695 So there's no way you're working around it. 592 00:44:17,906 --> 00:44:20,031 Tides control your job. 593 00:44:20,108 --> 00:44:21,273 Sometimes it's smooth sailing, 594 00:44:21,284 --> 00:44:24,535 Sometimes it's rougher than hell. 595 00:44:24,612 --> 00:44:27,279 Narrator: Modern fishing boats are outfitted with tools 596 00:44:27,290 --> 00:44:32,118 To aid navigation and avoid the perils that wrecked the ships 597 00:44:32,128 --> 00:44:35,713 Of those who came before them. 598 00:44:35,882 --> 00:44:39,542 Withers: At times here in the bay of fundy it can get quite foggy. 599 00:44:39,552 --> 00:44:43,721 But you're prepared for it because we use a lot of 600 00:44:43,798 --> 00:44:46,724 Electronics like radar and gps and sounders 601 00:44:46,935 --> 00:44:49,310 And that's what you use to just-- 602 00:44:49,387 --> 00:44:51,229 Almost like playing a video game when you're out there. 603 00:44:51,305 --> 00:44:57,985 You can't see nothing but -- just dots on the screens. 604 00:44:58,062 --> 00:45:00,738 Noftell: It has a draw on ya and you can't explain that 605 00:45:00,865 --> 00:45:02,740 Until you've been out on it. 606 00:45:02,867 --> 00:45:05,493 The water, the smells, the sounds. 607 00:45:05,570 --> 00:45:10,456 Bay of fundy is the best spot in the world to work. 608 00:45:17,415 --> 00:45:23,002 Narrator: From coastal flatlands to towering sandstone sea stacks, 609 00:45:23,012 --> 00:45:25,763 The landscapes on the bay of fundy 610 00:45:25,974 --> 00:45:29,767 Change with the turn of the tide. 611 00:45:29,936 --> 00:45:31,602 Ostermann: It's like things get revealed; 612 00:45:31,679 --> 00:45:35,189 You're allowed to see inside a crystal ball or something. 613 00:45:35,266 --> 00:45:38,517 Narrator: It is a landscape where powerful currents 614 00:45:38,528 --> 00:45:43,448 Unearth 300 million-year-old mysteries. 615 00:45:43,524 --> 00:45:48,035 Reid: As long as I can walk, and keep walking, I'll look for fossils. 616 00:45:48,112 --> 00:45:50,529 Who knows how many secrets is in this cliff? 617 00:45:50,540 --> 00:45:52,790 And we're gonna find them. 618 00:45:53,001 --> 00:45:57,795 Narrator: Fog breathes new life into old-growth forests. 619 00:46:01,292 --> 00:46:07,054 Shorelines teem with wildlife, and communities are governed 620 00:46:07,131 --> 00:46:12,393 By the rhythm of the world's highest tides. 621 00:46:14,564 --> 00:46:24,572 (♪♪♪) 622 00:46:24,649 --> 00:46:29,652 (♪♪♪) 623 00:46:29,662 --> 00:46:39,796 (♪♪♪) 57562

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