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Iceland...
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00:00:05,798 --> 00:00:08,549
Built by fire...
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Sculpted by ice...
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Massive glaciers
cut through mountains.
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Melting ice
feeds thundering waterfalls.
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>> the power there
is just unbelievable.
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If you touch
the rocks around it,
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You can feel them trembling.
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00:00:27,311 --> 00:00:30,738
>> on the world's largest
volcanic island,
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00:00:30,814 --> 00:00:35,034
A titanic battle rages
between fire and ice.
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00:00:37,496 --> 00:00:40,822
Its aftermath can be ferocious.
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00:00:40,833 --> 00:00:41,832
>> they're flash floods
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00:00:41,909 --> 00:00:43,500
And they can cause
a lot of damage
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Wherever they go.
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00:00:44,837 --> 00:00:46,912
They basically ruin
everything in their path.
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00:00:46,922 --> 00:00:50,758
>> vast stretches
of this cold-blooded wilderness
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00:00:50,834 --> 00:00:54,252
Appear gripped
by a never-ending ice age.
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00:00:57,266 --> 00:01:02,761
But as the earth warms
and glaciers melt,
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What will become of iceland?
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(♪♪♪)
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(♪♪♪)
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(♪♪♪)
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(♪♪♪)
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(♪♪♪)
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In the southeast of iceland
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At the foot
of a colossal glacier,
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An iceberg drifts serenely...
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...On a remote glacial lake.
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00:02:13,500 --> 00:02:16,751
It is the size
of a two-story house.
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00:02:16,762 --> 00:02:20,180
An echo from a long time ago
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When ice blanketed
much of the world.
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This dreamlike lagoon,
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Awash with the wreckage of ice
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That has crumbled
from the glacier,
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Is a sign
that iceland is changing.
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(♪♪♪)
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15 years ago,
there was no lake here.
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Just a sheet of ice.
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This glacier is shrinking.
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It used to creep forward.
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No longer.
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It's losing more ice
than it gains from snowfall.
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00:03:03,884 --> 00:03:05,809
But as it recedes,
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A lagoon left in its wake
is growing.
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00:03:09,389 --> 00:03:11,306
>> the glacier is retreating.
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00:03:11,317 --> 00:03:13,734
And the weight of the glacier
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Means that the ice is actually
going into the ground,
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Means that
when the glacier retreats,
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It leaves a hole in the ground.
50
00:03:21,985 --> 00:03:23,827
But the water flowing
from the glacier
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Fills up the hole
and creates this lagoon.
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That particular lagoon
is interesting to watch
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00:03:30,077 --> 00:03:32,586
Because we can see so clearly
from one year to another
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That it is getting bigger.
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It's nature being created.
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We often say that iceland
is still under construction
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And that's a good example
of that.
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>> the lagoon is an omen
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Of a greater glacial collapse
to come.
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00:03:51,941 --> 00:03:57,102
Its very existence
points to a potential disaster.
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00:03:57,112 --> 00:04:01,240
Not just for iceland,
but for our entire planet.
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00:04:07,698 --> 00:04:11,458
(waves crashing)
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00:04:11,535 --> 00:04:15,704
Iceland lies in the middle
of the north atlantic ocean,
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About 200 miles
east of greenland
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On the edge
of the arctic circle.
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(♪♪♪)
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Just 300 miles wide,
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00:04:29,436 --> 00:04:32,470
It is roughly the size
of kentucky.
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This lone and rugged island
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Is a place
of extreme natural beauty.
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00:04:38,904 --> 00:04:43,148
It is also one of the most
volcanic places on earth.
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(volcano erupting)
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00:04:48,163 --> 00:04:50,831
Iceland's 30 active volcanoes
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Generate 1/3rd
of the world's land-based lava.
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It is an island on fire.
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00:05:04,513 --> 00:05:07,172
On average, iceland experiences
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00:05:07,182 --> 00:05:10,767
A major volcanic eruption
every 5 years.
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00:05:13,480 --> 00:05:17,691
Lava has scraped bare
great belts of the interior
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00:05:17,768 --> 00:05:21,445
Creating cruel landscapes.
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00:05:21,521 --> 00:05:25,449
Just 1/5th of this hostile,
alien land
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Is inhabited by humans.
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00:05:30,539 --> 00:05:33,999
200 earthquakes
shake the island each year.
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00:05:37,287 --> 00:05:41,048
All over iceland,
steam hisses...
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(water erupts)
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...Water erupts...
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...And lava spews
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From the mantle,
deep beneath the earth's crust.
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00:05:59,068 --> 00:06:04,229
In 2010, a volcanic eruption
at eyjafjallajokull
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00:06:04,239 --> 00:06:06,698
Brought global air travel
to a standstill.
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00:06:10,913 --> 00:06:13,663
The wrath
of iceland's volcanoes
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00:06:13,740 --> 00:06:17,751
Has been felt far beyond
these shores.
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But there is one force
powerful enough
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00:06:20,839 --> 00:06:23,632
To challenge
iceland's fiery heart.
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Ice.
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00:06:30,099 --> 00:06:33,433
About 1.5 million years ago,
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A massive ice sheet
descended from the north
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And smothered the island.
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00:06:40,567 --> 00:06:42,267
>> whole of iceland
was covered with ice
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00:06:42,277 --> 00:06:44,519
And the big icecaps,
greenland and antarctica,
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Were quite a bit bigger
than they are at present.
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00:06:47,274 --> 00:06:49,107
And that means
that the sea-level
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00:06:49,118 --> 00:06:52,777
Was about 100, 110 meters lower
than it is now
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00:06:52,788 --> 00:06:54,746
Because all the water
was stored in the ice.
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00:06:56,959 --> 00:07:01,211
>> 1/3rd of our planet lay
trapped under a rigid
blanket of ice.
105
00:07:03,632 --> 00:07:06,958
Then, about 12,000 years ago,
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The ice sheet loosened its grip
and began its retreat.
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00:07:12,057 --> 00:07:16,435
Today, 11% of iceland
remains covered by glaciers.
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Great rivers
of slow-moving ice.
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Spread out, they would cloak
the entire island
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00:07:26,738 --> 00:07:28,947
In more than 100 feet of ice.
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00:07:33,069 --> 00:07:34,744
Iceland's glaciers
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00:07:34,821 --> 00:07:38,915
Hold more than 800 cubic miles
of water,
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Enough to fill
michigan's lake huron.
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Deep within the realm
of a steep mountain range
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Lies a frozen giant.
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Vatnajokul,
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The largest glacier in iceland
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And the greatest glacial mass
in all of europe.
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With a surface area of more than
3,000 square miles,
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00:08:08,021 --> 00:08:11,781
It covers
most of southern iceland
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And would entomb
the city of tokyo in ice
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More than 1/3rd of a mile deep.
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00:08:21,877 --> 00:08:25,787
So much water is locked
inside the glacier,
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It would take iceland's
most powerful river
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More than 200 years
to carry it out to sea.
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00:08:34,965 --> 00:08:38,975
The glacier is so immense,
it generates its own weather.
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00:08:40,812 --> 00:08:45,565
Cold winds blow off the ice-cap,
chilling the valleys below.
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00:08:50,480 --> 00:08:52,989
Vatnajokul
is constantly transforming.
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00:08:55,744 --> 00:08:57,577
As it pushes
through the valley,
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It melts in the bright daylight.
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00:09:00,249 --> 00:09:03,375
Then freezes,
during frigid arctic nights.
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00:09:09,800 --> 00:09:12,750
Crevasses,
cut open by friction
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00:09:12,761 --> 00:09:16,087
As the ice
slumps down the mountain,
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00:09:16,098 --> 00:09:18,598
Can plunge more than 100 feet
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00:09:18,809 --> 00:09:21,851
Deep into the glacier's
icy heart.
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00:09:24,014 --> 00:09:25,605
For adventure-seekers,
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The ice can be thrilling
but treacherous.
138
00:09:30,028 --> 00:09:31,611
>> when you hike
on the glaciers,
139
00:09:31,738 --> 00:09:33,021
You have to know
what you're doing.
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00:09:33,031 --> 00:09:34,614
If you don't know
what you're doing,
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00:09:34,825 --> 00:09:36,700
Sometimes these crevasses
can be very dangerous.
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00:09:36,776 --> 00:09:37,951
Sometimes they're snow-covered
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And you can't even see
where they are.
144
00:09:40,030 --> 00:09:42,697
So by all means,
people should always
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00:09:42,708 --> 00:09:44,958
Either have the experience
or have a guide with them
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When they do
something like that.
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>> farther up the glacier,
crevasses are larger
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Making higher reaches
impassable
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00:09:58,849 --> 00:10:01,600
And hiking
even more harrowing.
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00:10:03,053 --> 00:10:07,138
In 1953,
two british science students
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Set out on a research expedition
on vatnajokul.
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00:10:12,395 --> 00:10:15,155
They were never seen again.
153
00:10:15,231 --> 00:10:20,160
It's believed the two fell
into a deep and hidden crevasse.
154
00:10:20,236 --> 00:10:21,995
In 2006,
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00:10:22,072 --> 00:10:25,665
Mountaineering equipment
belonging to the two students
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00:10:25,834 --> 00:10:27,834
Was discovered on the ice.
157
00:10:30,839 --> 00:10:32,505
At its thickest point,
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00:10:32,582 --> 00:10:36,092
The ice is more than 2/3rds
of a mile deep.
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00:10:36,169 --> 00:10:39,262
Entombed under these icy folds
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00:10:39,339 --> 00:10:41,806
Are mountains,
valleys and plateaus.
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00:10:44,594 --> 00:10:47,395
The glacier also conceals
volcanoes.
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60% of iceland's
active volcano systems
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Lie under its glaciers.
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00:10:57,824 --> 00:11:00,659
And that can produce
some dramatic results.
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(volcano erupting)
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00:11:04,831 --> 00:11:06,280
Grímsvotn...
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00:11:08,284 --> 00:11:12,462
It has the highest eruption rate
of any volcano in iceland.
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00:11:13,965 --> 00:11:15,965
In 2011,
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00:11:16,042 --> 00:11:19,803
It unleashed its fury
for the fourth time in 14 years.
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Torrents of molten rock
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Surged through
shattered ice sheets,
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00:11:26,895 --> 00:11:30,230
Hurling a billowing cloud
of steam and ash
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00:11:30,306 --> 00:11:33,224
12 miles into the sky,
174
00:11:33,235 --> 00:11:37,070
And plunging parts of the island
into near darkness.
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00:11:39,866 --> 00:11:42,984
It is believed to be the most
violent eruption in iceland
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Since the 1960s.
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00:11:46,322 --> 00:11:47,747
Far more powerful
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00:11:47,916 --> 00:11:51,492
Than the 2010 eruption
of eyjafjallajokull
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00:11:51,503 --> 00:11:55,422
That brought global air travel
to its knees.
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00:11:55,498 --> 00:11:59,250
The two forces at play,
fire and ice,
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When mixed,
are a power to be reckoned with.
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00:12:03,098 --> 00:12:04,338
>> you have these,
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00:12:04,349 --> 00:12:07,258
The super-cold glacier
and the super-warm lava,
184
00:12:07,269 --> 00:12:11,938
And when the eruptions
take place under the glaciers,
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00:12:12,015 --> 00:12:13,940
First of all,
the heat from the eruption
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Starts melting the glacier
from underneath.
187
00:12:16,903 --> 00:12:19,020
And in some cases,
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00:12:19,030 --> 00:12:21,781
The eruptions are big enough
and last for long enough
189
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To melt their way
all the way through the ice.
190
00:12:24,619 --> 00:12:27,111
And then we have
this magnificent display of fire
191
00:12:27,122 --> 00:12:29,030
Just coming out of the ice.
192
00:12:29,040 --> 00:12:30,415
They're kind of battling
each other.
193
00:12:32,878 --> 00:12:36,871
>> in the explosive showdown
between lava and ice,
194
00:12:36,882 --> 00:12:40,374
Ice is a forbidding force.
195
00:12:40,385 --> 00:12:44,879
But it is no match
for iceland's fiery volcanoes
196
00:12:44,890 --> 00:12:48,099
Which can wreak havoc
in other, unexpected, ways.
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Flooding,
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00:12:51,971 --> 00:12:54,230
Triggered by the eruption
of a volcano
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00:12:54,307 --> 00:12:56,641
Beneath a glacier.
200
00:12:56,651 --> 00:13:00,820
The 2010 eruption
at eyjafjallajokull
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00:13:01,031 --> 00:13:03,823
Melted the glacier
202
00:13:03,992 --> 00:13:07,151
And sent
2 billion cubic feet of water
203
00:13:07,162 --> 00:13:10,330
Flooding down the mountain,
204
00:13:10,406 --> 00:13:14,158
Nearly the volume of water
that goes over niagara falls
205
00:13:14,169 --> 00:13:17,328
In 6 hours.
206
00:13:17,339 --> 00:13:18,496
>> the flash floods,
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00:13:18,507 --> 00:13:20,590
Which are known in iceland
as "jokulhlaup"
208
00:13:20,667 --> 00:13:23,009
Or the "glacial floods".
209
00:13:23,086 --> 00:13:25,670
And they will go down
and onto the lowlands
210
00:13:25,680 --> 00:13:28,422
And can cause a lot of damage
wherever they go.
211
00:13:28,433 --> 00:13:29,974
They basically ruin
everything in their path.
212
00:13:33,522 --> 00:13:36,981
>> iceland's glacial floods
are enormously destructive.
213
00:13:41,104 --> 00:13:44,113
Raging torrents of water
wash away roads.
214
00:13:48,203 --> 00:13:51,037
At the foot
of vatnajokul glacier,
215
00:13:51,114 --> 00:13:55,116
Lies the twisted wreckage
of a steel bridge
216
00:13:55,126 --> 00:13:57,952
Wiped out by glacial flooding.
217
00:13:57,963 --> 00:14:06,886
(♪♪♪)
218
00:14:06,963 --> 00:14:08,379
Glacial floods carry
219
00:14:08,390 --> 00:14:12,308
Millions of tons
of volcanic rock and ash
220
00:14:12,385 --> 00:14:15,303
To iceland's south shore,
221
00:14:15,313 --> 00:14:17,722
Reshaping the coastline
222
00:14:17,732 --> 00:14:20,900
And creating stretches
of basalt beach
223
00:14:21,027 --> 00:14:24,645
As black as gunmetal.
224
00:14:24,656 --> 00:14:28,983
>> it's because it's all
produced by breaking down basalt
225
00:14:28,994 --> 00:14:30,910
Which is a black rock.
226
00:14:31,037 --> 00:14:32,236
And most of the rock,
227
00:14:32,247 --> 00:14:34,488
The majority of rocks
in iceland,
228
00:14:34,499 --> 00:14:39,168
Are black in color
because most of it is basalt.
229
00:14:39,245 --> 00:14:41,078
So we have this dark color.
230
00:14:41,089 --> 00:14:43,497
So it-- I remember one time
going to hawaii
231
00:14:43,508 --> 00:14:45,091
And everyone talked about
the black sand beach.
232
00:14:45,168 --> 00:14:46,426
"you need to go and see
the black sand beach."
233
00:14:46,502 --> 00:14:47,927
And I said, "why?
234
00:14:48,096 --> 00:14:48,928
I've seen nothing
but black sand beaches
235
00:14:49,139 --> 00:14:50,513
In my life.
236
00:14:50,590 --> 00:14:52,557
I'm from a place
where all the rocks are dark."
237
00:14:59,149 --> 00:15:01,107
>> at sandvik beach,
238
00:15:01,184 --> 00:15:05,945
Towering cliffs are home
to thousands of sea birds,
239
00:15:06,072 --> 00:15:08,189
Including the puffin.
240
00:15:08,199 --> 00:15:10,116
(birds squawking)
241
00:15:10,193 --> 00:15:13,110
More than half the world's
atlantic puffins
242
00:15:13,121 --> 00:15:17,031
Breed on iceland's
rocky cliff tops.
243
00:15:17,042 --> 00:15:19,918
(birds squawking in distance)
244
00:15:23,122 --> 00:15:25,289
Although the north coast
of the island
245
00:15:25,300 --> 00:15:27,967
Touches the arctic circle,
246
00:15:28,136 --> 00:15:31,012
Its coastal waters
remain free of sea ice.
247
00:15:33,058 --> 00:15:37,644
The atlantic gulf stream,
a system of thermal currents
248
00:15:37,720 --> 00:15:40,721
Warms this passage
of the north atlantic.
249
00:15:40,732 --> 00:15:46,986
(♪♪♪)
250
00:15:47,113 --> 00:15:50,731
But with warmer water
comes rain.
251
00:15:50,742 --> 00:15:52,825
This stretch of coastline
252
00:15:52,902 --> 00:15:55,995
Is one of the wettest
in iceland,
253
00:15:56,122 --> 00:15:59,824
With average annual rainfall
of more than 90 inches.
254
00:16:02,662 --> 00:16:05,830
Isolated
near the top of the world,
255
00:16:05,840 --> 00:16:09,467
Iceland is ravaged by storms
in every direction.
256
00:16:11,346 --> 00:16:14,263
Fierce winds
and rolling atlantic waves
257
00:16:14,340 --> 00:16:15,723
Batter its shores.
258
00:16:18,186 --> 00:16:22,105
Through the centuries,
scores of icelandic mariners
259
00:16:22,181 --> 00:16:25,433
Have drowned in its wild,
stormy waters.
260
00:16:28,271 --> 00:16:31,781
Even today, there is real danger
for the icelanders
261
00:16:31,858 --> 00:16:34,993
Who harvest
these cold, dark seas.
262
00:16:37,163 --> 00:16:38,454
>> the connection between
263
00:16:38,531 --> 00:16:40,373
The people living
in these villages and the ocean
264
00:16:40,450 --> 00:16:42,291
Is very, very strong.
265
00:16:42,368 --> 00:16:44,794
It is their livelihood.
266
00:16:44,871 --> 00:16:47,130
And sometimes in some areas,
267
00:16:47,206 --> 00:16:49,632
Especially close
to the south coast,
268
00:16:49,709 --> 00:16:52,301
Where we have the rough surf
of the atlantic
269
00:16:52,378 --> 00:16:54,554
Hammering the coast,
270
00:16:54,630 --> 00:16:59,058
Going out in the boats
to catch the fish
271
00:16:59,185 --> 00:17:01,635
Has always been
a big challenge.
272
00:17:01,646 --> 00:17:03,554
They have to go
through the surf sometimes.
273
00:17:03,565 --> 00:17:06,149
And even today in the fish--
big fishing boats
274
00:17:06,225 --> 00:17:08,067
And with all the technology,
275
00:17:08,236 --> 00:17:11,320
This is often a very dangerous
and difficult thing to do.
276
00:17:11,397 --> 00:17:12,572
So these are tough people
277
00:17:12,648 --> 00:17:15,158
And they have learned
to survive
278
00:17:15,234 --> 00:17:17,827
With this giant,
the atlantic ocean.
279
00:17:24,660 --> 00:17:27,587
>> at the end
of the black sand beach,
280
00:17:27,663 --> 00:17:29,922
Jagged blades of basalt
281
00:17:29,999 --> 00:17:32,800
Rise more than 200 feet
into the air.
282
00:17:34,670 --> 00:17:38,514
Once part of a greater
volcanic cliff line,
283
00:17:38,591 --> 00:17:40,933
These ancient sea stacks
284
00:17:41,010 --> 00:17:44,771
Have been ground down over time
by wind
285
00:17:44,847 --> 00:17:46,606
And the rages of the sea.
286
00:17:50,612 --> 00:17:52,186
Farther inland,
287
00:17:52,197 --> 00:17:55,907
Iceland's mighty ice fields
are also shrinking.
288
00:18:01,623 --> 00:18:03,697
Although
the majority of its glaciers
289
00:18:03,708 --> 00:18:07,201
Lie atop active volcano systems,
290
00:18:07,212 --> 00:18:10,880
Less than 5%
of the melting of its ice caps
291
00:18:10,957 --> 00:18:13,591
Is attributed
to volcanic heat.
292
00:18:15,261 --> 00:18:18,888
A far more destructive force
threatens iceland's glaciers.
293
00:18:20,558 --> 00:18:22,558
Rising global temperatures.
294
00:18:26,806 --> 00:18:30,975
Over the last 100 years,
the planet has warmed.
295
00:18:33,813 --> 00:18:36,397
The upper reaches
of the northern hemisphere
296
00:18:36,407 --> 00:18:40,484
Are warming twice as fast
as regions farther south.
297
00:18:40,495 --> 00:18:44,747
(♪♪♪)
298
00:18:44,824 --> 00:18:47,658
In a land of ice and snow,
299
00:18:47,669 --> 00:18:50,962
The effects of climate change
are unmistakable.
300
00:18:53,583 --> 00:18:55,716
The glaciers are melting.
301
00:18:58,012 --> 00:19:01,005
>> of course, the glaciers
are disappearing right now.
302
00:19:01,015 --> 00:19:05,852
I've been monitoring glaciers
for 30 years
303
00:19:05,928 --> 00:19:09,847
And it's the temperature,
mean temperature,
304
00:19:09,858 --> 00:19:11,774
Particularly,
the summer temperature,
305
00:19:11,851 --> 00:19:13,609
Which is causing the changes.
306
00:19:13,686 --> 00:19:17,196
And the summer temperature,
and temperature in general,
307
00:19:17,407 --> 00:19:20,357
Has been rising
during this last century
308
00:19:20,368 --> 00:19:23,202
Very consistently.
309
00:19:26,040 --> 00:19:29,959
>> in iceland,
glacial melt is nothing new.
310
00:19:30,036 --> 00:19:33,212
Each winter,
snow falls on the glacier
311
00:19:33,423 --> 00:19:36,549
And gradually compresses
into ice.
312
00:19:36,626 --> 00:19:37,791
Each summer,
313
00:19:37,802 --> 00:19:40,711
Melt water
pours from the icecaps,
314
00:19:40,722 --> 00:19:43,222
Gathers in streams
and rivers,
315
00:19:43,299 --> 00:19:46,184
And cascades
into valleys below.
316
00:19:54,444 --> 00:19:56,903
This cycle of freeze and thaw
317
00:19:56,979 --> 00:19:59,447
Has endured
for thousands of years.
318
00:20:01,326 --> 00:20:03,567
But in the last century,
319
00:20:03,578 --> 00:20:06,954
Glacial melt
has far exceeded snowfall.
320
00:20:08,374 --> 00:20:10,658
The glaciers are vanishing...
321
00:20:10,668 --> 00:20:12,335
...At an alarming rate.
322
00:20:21,387 --> 00:20:24,263
5% of iceland's ice caps
323
00:20:24,432 --> 00:20:26,474
Have melted
in the last 40 years.
324
00:20:28,394 --> 00:20:32,355
Each year,
11 billion tons of ice
325
00:20:32,431 --> 00:20:34,023
Vanish from the island.
326
00:20:38,112 --> 00:20:40,279
The last time
iceland experienced
327
00:20:40,356 --> 00:20:43,783
An accelerated melt
on this scale
328
00:20:43,859 --> 00:20:46,869
Is when it emerged
from the last ice age
329
00:20:46,946 --> 00:20:49,697
More than 12,000 years ago.
330
00:20:49,707 --> 00:20:55,795
(♪♪♪)
331
00:20:55,871 --> 00:21:01,467
Iceland's largest icecap
feeds dozens of outlet glaciers,
332
00:21:01,544 --> 00:21:03,627
Essentially tongues
333
00:21:03,638 --> 00:21:07,047
That slide away
from the larger mass of ice
334
00:21:07,058 --> 00:21:08,557
And into deep valleys.
335
00:21:11,387 --> 00:21:13,721
The glaciers are estimated
to be melting
336
00:21:13,731 --> 00:21:16,274
At a rate of 3 feet per year.
337
00:21:18,152 --> 00:21:20,319
Many of its outlet glaciers
338
00:21:20,488 --> 00:21:23,814
Are melting
at an even faster pace.
339
00:21:23,825 --> 00:21:26,742
>> so this glacier is
actually moving quite fast.
340
00:21:26,819 --> 00:21:28,411
During the last 100 years,
341
00:21:28,487 --> 00:21:30,329
It's been retreating
very rapidly.
342
00:21:30,456 --> 00:21:32,489
So now it's further back
than it has ever been
343
00:21:32,500 --> 00:21:35,409
In the last 120 years or so.
344
00:21:35,420 --> 00:21:36,502
Since the early '90s,
345
00:21:36,579 --> 00:21:37,753
All the glaciers
have been retreating
346
00:21:37,830 --> 00:21:39,338
And losing mass quite rapidly.
347
00:21:46,931 --> 00:21:48,848
>> svinafellsjokull,
348
00:21:48,924 --> 00:21:52,518
One of the largest
outlet glaciers at vatnajokull,
349
00:21:52,595 --> 00:21:54,762
Advances down the mountain
350
00:21:54,772 --> 00:21:57,773
Between 80 to 100 feet
each year.
351
00:22:02,613 --> 00:22:06,198
But despite this immense
forward push of ice,
352
00:22:06,275 --> 00:22:08,692
Summer melting
causes its leading edge
353
00:22:08,703 --> 00:22:11,579
To recede more than 130 feet.
354
00:22:15,284 --> 00:22:17,618
Great swaths of the valley,
355
00:22:17,628 --> 00:22:20,129
Once enveloped by the glacier,
356
00:22:20,206 --> 00:22:22,381
Now lie exposed
357
00:22:22,458 --> 00:22:25,343
As vatnajokull retreats
up the mountain.
358
00:22:27,797 --> 00:22:31,515
It is a grim reminder
that the glacier is dying.
359
00:22:35,554 --> 00:22:37,805
At this glacial lagoon,
360
00:22:37,815 --> 00:22:40,900
Huge chunks of ice
have broken off
361
00:22:40,976 --> 00:22:43,361
Or calved from the glacier.
362
00:22:48,067 --> 00:22:51,985
Calving begins with a fracture
in the edge of the glacier
363
00:22:51,996 --> 00:22:57,416
Caused by the erosion
from wind, water or melting ice.
364
00:22:57,627 --> 00:23:01,420
When the crack penetrates
the full depth of the glacier,
365
00:23:01,589 --> 00:23:05,249
The sheer weight of the ice
takes its toll
366
00:23:05,259 --> 00:23:09,678
And huge blocks break away
creating icebergs.
367
00:23:11,682 --> 00:23:14,266
Some are darkly striped,
368
00:23:14,343 --> 00:23:17,177
Blackened by debris
from the valley floor.
369
00:23:17,188 --> 00:23:24,610
(♪♪♪)
370
00:23:24,687 --> 00:23:28,239
Calving is a natural process
in the life of a glacier.
371
00:23:29,700 --> 00:23:31,608
But across the arctic,
372
00:23:31,619 --> 00:23:34,578
Glaciers are calving
at an alarming rate.
373
00:23:37,032 --> 00:23:38,958
As temperatures rise
374
00:23:39,034 --> 00:23:41,877
And polar ice
weakens and melts,
375
00:23:41,954 --> 00:23:44,797
More and more ice
cleaves from the glacier.
376
00:23:47,635 --> 00:23:50,294
As the ice sheet breaks apart,
377
00:23:50,304 --> 00:23:53,639
Lagoons swell
and flood the lowlands.
378
00:23:58,688 --> 00:24:01,221
The icebergs in the lagoon,
379
00:24:01,232 --> 00:24:04,150
Ruins from a dwindling ice cap,
380
00:24:04,226 --> 00:24:06,902
Provide a glimpse
into the future
381
00:24:06,979 --> 00:24:09,822
Of all of iceland's glaciers.
382
00:24:12,660 --> 00:24:15,494
>> we have done some modeling
for the icelandic glaciers
383
00:24:15,663 --> 00:24:18,572
And taking some assumptions
384
00:24:18,583 --> 00:24:21,500
About how the temperature
is gonna increase in the future,
385
00:24:21,669 --> 00:24:23,994
We see actually quite
a bleak future for the glaciers.
386
00:24:24,005 --> 00:24:27,915
So most of them
will probably be gone
387
00:24:27,925 --> 00:24:30,217
In about 200, 250 years.
388
00:24:33,839 --> 00:24:36,515
>> the prospect
of a glacial collapse
389
00:24:36,642 --> 00:24:40,519
Is a disturbing one
for the people of iceland.
390
00:24:40,688 --> 00:24:43,597
Locked inside the ice caps
391
00:24:43,608 --> 00:24:46,650
Is their largest reservoir
of fresh water.
392
00:24:50,272 --> 00:24:53,357
>> if all the glaciers
would disappear entirely,
393
00:24:53,367 --> 00:24:54,942
It would have
very negative effect
394
00:24:54,952 --> 00:24:57,536
On our water supply.
395
00:24:57,663 --> 00:25:01,957
And not only in form of the
drinking water that we need,
396
00:25:02,034 --> 00:25:03,867
Both hot and cold water,
397
00:25:03,878 --> 00:25:05,118
But also the fact
398
00:25:05,129 --> 00:25:07,880
That 70% of the energy
that we have in iceland
399
00:25:07,957 --> 00:25:10,290
Is produced
in hydraulic power plants
400
00:25:10,301 --> 00:25:12,635
By damming the rivers.
401
00:25:12,711 --> 00:25:14,970
So they are
a very, very big part of--
402
00:25:15,047 --> 00:25:17,056
Important part of our lives.
403
00:25:17,132 --> 00:25:27,057
(♪♪♪)
404
00:25:27,068 --> 00:25:29,652
>> the deterioration
of the ice sheets
405
00:25:29,728 --> 00:25:32,571
Could have devastating
consequences,
406
00:25:32,782 --> 00:25:36,817
Not just for iceland,
but for the world beyond.
407
00:25:36,827 --> 00:25:42,990
(♪♪♪)
408
00:25:43,000 --> 00:25:44,416
>> in the global context,
409
00:25:44,493 --> 00:25:47,828
We can say
that when the glaciers melt,
410
00:25:47,838 --> 00:25:49,755
Sea level is gonna rise.
411
00:25:49,832 --> 00:25:51,840
The glaciers in iceland
412
00:25:51,917 --> 00:25:54,084
Are not that big
in a global context.
413
00:25:54,095 --> 00:25:56,345
So if we take
all the glaciers in iceland,
414
00:25:56,422 --> 00:25:58,338
Melt them
and put it into the ocean,
415
00:25:58,349 --> 00:26:01,174
The sea level will rise
about 1 centimeter.
416
00:26:01,185 --> 00:26:03,093
So that's not a big influence.
417
00:26:03,104 --> 00:26:06,430
But we have greater neighbor,
greenland ice sheet.
418
00:26:06,440 --> 00:26:09,775
And if we mentally
take that whole ice,
419
00:26:09,852 --> 00:26:12,352
And melt it
and put it into the ocean,
420
00:26:12,363 --> 00:26:14,655
The sea level would rise
7 meters.
421
00:26:18,452 --> 00:26:21,111
>> a sea-level-rise of 20 feet
422
00:26:21,122 --> 00:26:26,450
Would drown more than
400,000 square miles of land,
423
00:26:26,460 --> 00:26:30,629
Threaten the planet's
coastal nations and cities
424
00:26:30,840 --> 00:26:34,633
And put more than
100 million people at risk.
425
00:26:34,760 --> 00:26:40,881
(♪♪♪)
426
00:26:40,891 --> 00:26:43,884
But it's not just sea levels
that are climbing
427
00:26:43,894 --> 00:26:46,720
As a result of climate change.
428
00:26:46,731 --> 00:26:49,273
Iceland too is rising.
429
00:26:51,152 --> 00:26:54,394
As ice melts,
its load becomes lighter
430
00:26:54,405 --> 00:26:57,489
Reducing pressure
on the land below
431
00:26:57,566 --> 00:27:00,075
And the ground rebounds.
432
00:27:00,152 --> 00:27:02,745
It's known
as "isostatic lift".
433
00:27:04,749 --> 00:27:06,156
In some areas,
434
00:27:06,167 --> 00:27:10,002
The island is rising
more than 1 inch per year.
435
00:27:10,079 --> 00:27:11,995
The speed of this rise
436
00:27:12,006 --> 00:27:14,423
Is among the fastest
on the planet.
437
00:27:16,251 --> 00:27:20,012
And as the land rebounds,
volcanoes stir.
438
00:27:23,258 --> 00:27:26,426
Heavy weight
on top of a volcano,
439
00:27:26,437 --> 00:27:32,265
Such as a massive sheet of ice
will suppress volcanic activity.
440
00:27:32,276 --> 00:27:35,852
As ice melts,
downward pressure is released
441
00:27:35,863 --> 00:27:39,448
Allowing magma
to rise to the surface
442
00:27:39,525 --> 00:27:42,076
Where it can trigger
volcanic eruptions.
443
00:27:46,874 --> 00:27:49,958
Geological evidence
from the last ice age
444
00:27:50,035 --> 00:27:53,120
Suggests that volcanic eruptions
in iceland
445
00:27:53,130 --> 00:27:57,007
Increased 30-fold
after the glaciers retreated.
446
00:28:01,889 --> 00:28:04,723
Scientists estimate
a glacial collapse
447
00:28:04,892 --> 00:28:06,800
Could lead
to a major eruption
448
00:28:06,811 --> 00:28:08,352
Every 7 years.
449
00:28:09,855 --> 00:28:11,563
Eruptions on this scale
450
00:28:11,640 --> 00:28:14,024
Can lead to something
even worse.
451
00:28:18,063 --> 00:28:20,397
In 1783,
452
00:28:20,408 --> 00:28:24,076
An eruption at laki
in south-central iceland
453
00:28:24,153 --> 00:28:27,154
Sent a poisonous cloud
of sulfur dioxide
454
00:28:27,164 --> 00:28:28,488
Into the atmosphere.
455
00:28:28,499 --> 00:28:37,164
(♪♪♪)
456
00:28:37,174 --> 00:28:41,176
The thick fog of fumes
plunged iceland into famine,
457
00:28:41,253 --> 00:28:43,178
Spread over europe
458
00:28:43,255 --> 00:28:48,934
And possibly killed an estimated
two million people worldwide.
459
00:28:49,011 --> 00:28:52,354
It was one of the deadliest
volcanic eruptions
460
00:28:52,431 --> 00:28:54,273
In human history.
461
00:28:54,349 --> 00:29:00,362
(♪♪♪)
462
00:29:00,439 --> 00:29:03,356
As iceland's glaciers
continue to melt
463
00:29:03,367 --> 00:29:07,286
Atop some of the world's
deadliest volcanoes,
464
00:29:07,362 --> 00:29:09,913
The threat of eruptions
increases.
465
00:29:11,116 --> 00:29:13,375
Some geologists believe
466
00:29:13,452 --> 00:29:17,296
A massive natural disaster
similar to laki
467
00:29:17,372 --> 00:29:19,089
Could happen again.
468
00:29:20,542 --> 00:29:23,376
>> there will be another one
like that in the future, yes.
469
00:29:23,387 --> 00:29:25,804
Every now and then,
about 1,000 years apart,
470
00:29:25,931 --> 00:29:28,131
We get huge eruptions,
471
00:29:28,142 --> 00:29:32,478
Which will even affect greatly
the modern society.
472
00:29:32,554 --> 00:29:35,222
We'll, probably,
have a much better way
473
00:29:35,232 --> 00:29:38,817
Of defending ourselves
than people had then,
474
00:29:38,894 --> 00:29:42,237
When 10% of the people died
from the famine
475
00:29:42,314 --> 00:29:46,658
And the results of the haze.
476
00:29:46,735 --> 00:29:52,572
But there may very well be
volcanic eruptions
477
00:29:52,583 --> 00:29:56,835
That will affect
the whole society of iceland
478
00:29:56,912 --> 00:30:00,380
In such a way that
it will hardly be habitable.
479
00:30:04,428 --> 00:30:06,512
>> the laki lava field,
480
00:30:06,588 --> 00:30:10,516
Which laid waste to more than
200 square miles,
481
00:30:10,592 --> 00:30:13,936
Is a reminder of the horror
that befell iceland.
482
00:30:16,023 --> 00:30:18,098
But where nature can destroy,
483
00:30:18,108 --> 00:30:20,484
It can also create beauty.
484
00:30:22,613 --> 00:30:23,946
On this night,
485
00:30:24,022 --> 00:30:26,824
The sky above the field
begins to bruise.
486
00:30:28,443 --> 00:30:33,196
And in the upper atmosphere,
a cosmic spectacle unfolds.
487
00:30:33,207 --> 00:30:35,282
Aurora borealis.
488
00:30:35,292 --> 00:30:36,834
The northern lights.
489
00:30:39,538 --> 00:30:43,039
Electrically charged particles
of solar wind
490
00:30:43,050 --> 00:30:46,301
Collide with
the earth's magnetic field,
491
00:30:46,378 --> 00:30:47,886
Creating one of nature's
492
00:30:47,963 --> 00:30:50,639
Most elusive
and spectacular sights.
493
00:30:58,640 --> 00:31:02,651
Iceland may be built
from fire and volcanic rock
494
00:31:02,728 --> 00:31:05,070
But it takes its shape
from ice.
495
00:31:07,241 --> 00:31:09,408
As glaciers
advanced and retreated
496
00:31:09,484 --> 00:31:11,743
Over thousands of years,
497
00:31:11,820 --> 00:31:14,746
They carved out deep fjords
498
00:31:14,823 --> 00:31:17,624
And sculpted
iceland's furrowed coastline.
499
00:31:20,087 --> 00:31:22,629
Some glaciers are long gone.
500
00:31:27,678 --> 00:31:30,420
Others are still at work today
501
00:31:30,431 --> 00:31:32,723
Dramatically transforming
the landscape.
502
00:31:36,094 --> 00:31:41,348
Vatnajokul bears down
on the valleys like a bulldozer.
503
00:31:41,358 --> 00:31:44,434
At the rate of 2 feet per day,
504
00:31:44,445 --> 00:31:47,187
It crushes
the land beneath it,
505
00:31:47,197 --> 00:31:51,992
Eroding solid rock
like sandpaper over wood.
506
00:31:53,454 --> 00:31:56,038
>> around vatnajokul
you have these runoff glaciers
507
00:31:56,114 --> 00:31:58,031
That come flowing
down from the big ice sheet,
508
00:31:58,042 --> 00:31:59,532
Carving the valleys,
509
00:31:59,543 --> 00:32:02,961
Making the valleys deeper
and wider as they do that.
510
00:32:03,130 --> 00:32:05,964
So one of the things that
you can clearly see
511
00:32:06,091 --> 00:32:08,541
When you look at the glaciers
are the glacier moraines
512
00:32:08,552 --> 00:32:10,969
That are often
in front of them,
513
00:32:11,096 --> 00:32:13,055
Which are the result
of the fact
514
00:32:13,131 --> 00:32:15,715
That the glacier
pushes forward,
515
00:32:15,726 --> 00:32:19,386
And it pushes gravel and dirt
in front of it,
516
00:32:19,396 --> 00:32:21,137
Creating these mounds.
517
00:32:21,148 --> 00:32:22,814
And then
as the glacier retreats,
518
00:32:22,891 --> 00:32:25,567
It leaves these mounds
just sitting there
519
00:32:25,644 --> 00:32:29,488
Like small hills--
sometimes very big hills.
520
00:32:29,564 --> 00:32:33,158
>> piles of moraines
litter the landscape,
521
00:32:33,235 --> 00:32:37,162
Evidence that the glaciers
are disappearing.
522
00:32:37,239 --> 00:32:40,749
Inside these rocky ridges
are clues
523
00:32:40,826 --> 00:32:42,793
To where the glaciers
have been.
524
00:32:44,079 --> 00:32:46,004
Rocks and minerals
525
00:32:46,215 --> 00:32:50,342
Unique to a particular landscape
hundreds of miles away
526
00:32:50,419 --> 00:32:53,011
Can be found in the moraine,
527
00:32:53,088 --> 00:32:56,598
Proof that a glacier
flowed through that region.
528
00:33:00,512 --> 00:33:03,096
As the glaciers power forward,
529
00:33:03,107 --> 00:33:05,691
They scour and gouge
the bedrock
530
00:33:05,767 --> 00:33:09,695
With boulders
carried in their bellies,
531
00:33:09,771 --> 00:33:13,031
Leaving scars in their wake
532
00:33:13,108 --> 00:33:17,193
Only to be revealed
when the glaciers recede.
533
00:33:17,204 --> 00:33:20,455
These juggernauts of ice
are so powerful,
534
00:33:20,532 --> 00:33:22,582
They can destroy mountains.
535
00:33:26,130 --> 00:33:30,123
On the snafellsnes peninsula
in western iceland,
536
00:33:30,134 --> 00:33:32,384
A free-standing mountain
537
00:33:32,461 --> 00:33:36,888
Bears the scars of the glacier
that covered it,
538
00:33:36,965 --> 00:33:38,181
Kirkjufell.
539
00:33:40,969 --> 00:33:42,886
It is one of the most
distinct models
540
00:33:42,896 --> 00:33:45,147
Of glacial erosion in iceland.
541
00:33:48,193 --> 00:33:50,902
Kirkjufell's unusual
pyramid shape
542
00:33:50,979 --> 00:33:53,321
Can be traced
to the last ice age.
543
00:33:55,576 --> 00:33:58,234
Glaciers on either side
of its peak,
544
00:33:58,245 --> 00:34:01,079
Scraped slowly down
the mountain
545
00:34:01,290 --> 00:34:05,042
Scooping out rock
and carrying it down its slopes.
546
00:34:09,339 --> 00:34:11,581
As the glacier flowed,
547
00:34:11,592 --> 00:34:14,509
Shattered rocks,
caught underneath the ice,
548
00:34:14,586 --> 00:34:16,669
Ground the mountainsides,
549
00:34:16,680 --> 00:34:18,847
Carving out more rock.
550
00:34:21,176 --> 00:34:24,102
When the glaciers
melted and retreated,
551
00:34:24,313 --> 00:34:26,855
Kirkjufell was left
completely severed
552
00:34:26,932 --> 00:34:30,108
From the rest
of the mountain chain.
553
00:34:30,277 --> 00:34:32,852
Today, it stands alone.
554
00:34:32,863 --> 00:34:35,113
A mighty mountain,
555
00:34:35,282 --> 00:34:37,783
But no match
for the power of ice.
556
00:34:47,294 --> 00:34:51,287
Nowhere is the crushing strength
of ice more extensive
557
00:34:51,298 --> 00:34:54,541
Than in iceland's magnificent
glacial valleys.
558
00:34:54,551 --> 00:35:02,557
(♪♪♪)
559
00:35:02,634 --> 00:35:06,803
These canyons form
when glaciers push slowly
560
00:35:06,814 --> 00:35:10,473
Through channels already cut
by flowing streams.
561
00:35:10,484 --> 00:35:16,896
(♪♪♪)
562
00:35:16,907 --> 00:35:18,657
Year after year,
563
00:35:18,733 --> 00:35:20,826
Decade after decade,
564
00:35:20,902 --> 00:35:23,736
Century after century,
565
00:35:23,747 --> 00:35:25,738
The glacier eats away
566
00:35:25,749 --> 00:35:29,167
At the sides
of the original valley
567
00:35:29,294 --> 00:35:31,578
Transforming a narrow gully
568
00:35:31,588 --> 00:35:34,256
Into a wide and mighty canyon.
569
00:35:36,835 --> 00:35:40,512
Entire mountainsides
are sheared away
570
00:35:40,589 --> 00:35:43,390
Leaving behind
steep vertical cliffs.
571
00:35:48,313 --> 00:35:52,190
Melt-water from the glacier
now feeds the stream
572
00:35:52,401 --> 00:35:54,651
That flows
through this mighty valley.
573
00:35:59,408 --> 00:36:00,857
Clearly too small
574
00:36:00,868 --> 00:36:03,952
To have created
this majestic canyon,
575
00:36:04,029 --> 00:36:06,329
It's known as a misfit stream.
576
00:36:08,375 --> 00:36:12,210
It can take decades,
sometimes centuries,
577
00:36:12,287 --> 00:36:14,954
For iceland's water
to complete its cycle
578
00:36:14,965 --> 00:36:16,715
And return to the sea.
579
00:36:18,126 --> 00:36:21,628
Rivers and streams
flow with meltwater from snow
580
00:36:21,638 --> 00:36:23,972
That fell hundreds
of years ago.
581
00:36:25,309 --> 00:36:27,383
Meltwater from glaciers
582
00:36:27,394 --> 00:36:32,314
Seeps into the ground
and through porous lava rock.
583
00:36:32,390 --> 00:36:35,308
>> you could almost say
that the lava is like a sponge.
584
00:36:35,319 --> 00:36:36,809
It takes in a lot of water
585
00:36:36,820 --> 00:36:40,647
And then it slowly lets it go
586
00:36:40,657 --> 00:36:42,482
As the sponge fills up.
587
00:36:42,492 --> 00:36:45,985
It takes maybe 30 years
for a drop of water
588
00:36:45,996 --> 00:36:49,331
To go from the point it melts,
seeps into the ground,
589
00:36:49,407 --> 00:36:51,499
Until it flows out
somewhere else.
590
00:36:51,576 --> 00:36:53,210
So it's a very slow process.
591
00:36:57,424 --> 00:37:00,008
>> these humble streams
merge together
592
00:37:00,085 --> 00:37:02,427
To form powerful rivers,
593
00:37:02,504 --> 00:37:05,672
Which in turn form
another erosive force
594
00:37:05,682 --> 00:37:08,091
That has shaped iceland.
595
00:37:08,101 --> 00:37:11,102
(water gushing)
596
00:37:11,179 --> 00:37:12,604
Waterfalls.
597
00:37:23,492 --> 00:37:26,776
Iceland's climate and topography
combine to generate
598
00:37:26,787 --> 00:37:30,872
Some of the most stunning
waterfalls in the world.
599
00:37:30,949 --> 00:37:34,668
On some parts of the island,
waterfalls outnumber people.
600
00:37:36,955 --> 00:37:39,297
In this north-atlantic climate,
601
00:37:39,374 --> 00:37:42,259
Snow and rain
frequently drench the land.
602
00:37:46,631 --> 00:37:48,390
High in the mountains,
603
00:37:48,466 --> 00:37:52,560
Melting glaciers
feed frigid rivers
604
00:37:52,637 --> 00:37:55,438
Already swollen
from precipitation.
605
00:37:57,559 --> 00:37:59,809
Over dozens of miles,
606
00:37:59,820 --> 00:38:03,321
These glacial rivers gather
pace and volume.
607
00:38:05,483 --> 00:38:08,827
Finally,
they roar over rocky cliffs.
608
00:38:08,903 --> 00:38:21,172
(♪♪♪)
609
00:38:21,249 --> 00:38:23,008
At selfoss,
610
00:38:23,084 --> 00:38:26,419
An unending flow
of glacial melt water
611
00:38:26,430 --> 00:38:30,473
Cascades over the ridge,
battering the rocks below.
612
00:38:33,178 --> 00:38:35,011
More than 30 feet high,
613
00:38:35,022 --> 00:38:37,605
Selfoss generates
immense power.
614
00:38:39,601 --> 00:38:41,109
But it is a trickle
615
00:38:41,186 --> 00:38:43,445
Compared to what lies
downstream.
616
00:38:47,776 --> 00:38:48,908
Dettifoss.
617
00:38:51,613 --> 00:38:55,448
150 feet high.
618
00:38:55,459 --> 00:38:56,958
300 feet wide.
619
00:38:58,879 --> 00:39:03,873
It is the largest waterfall
in europe,
620
00:39:03,884 --> 00:39:07,052
Powerful enough
to fracture solid rock.
621
00:39:07,128 --> 00:39:12,807
(♪♪♪)
622
00:39:12,884 --> 00:39:15,885
Early icelanders
called dettifoss
623
00:39:15,896 --> 00:39:18,146
"the king of all waterfalls".
624
00:39:20,984 --> 00:39:22,725
On an average day,
625
00:39:22,736 --> 00:39:25,987
Enough water cascades
over its crest line
626
00:39:26,064 --> 00:39:28,731
To fill
an olympic-sized swimming pool
627
00:39:28,742 --> 00:39:31,910
Every 5 seconds.
628
00:39:31,986 --> 00:39:35,080
In warm weather,
which boosts meltwater,
629
00:39:35,156 --> 00:39:37,156
Or on rainy days,
630
00:39:37,167 --> 00:39:40,660
Even more water is unleashed.
631
00:39:40,670 --> 00:39:43,830
>> dettifoss
is a magnificent display
632
00:39:43,840 --> 00:39:45,590
Of the power of water.
633
00:39:45,667 --> 00:39:47,834
It's a breathtaking thing
to see.
634
00:39:47,844 --> 00:39:49,168
And when you're standing
next to it,
635
00:39:49,179 --> 00:39:50,595
Not only can you oversee it
636
00:39:50,672 --> 00:39:53,172
And hear the rumble
from the water,
637
00:39:53,183 --> 00:39:54,849
But if you touch
the rocks around it,
638
00:39:54,926 --> 00:39:57,593
You can feel them trembling.
639
00:39:57,604 --> 00:40:00,179
So the power there
is just unbelievable.
640
00:40:00,190 --> 00:40:08,029
(♪♪♪)
641
00:40:08,106 --> 00:40:11,616
>> the river that feeds
the largest waterfall in europe
642
00:40:11,693 --> 00:40:16,454
Is in turn fed by the largest
glacier in europe,
643
00:40:16,581 --> 00:40:18,206
Vatnajokull,
644
00:40:18,283 --> 00:40:20,583
More than 100 miles
south of here.
645
00:40:23,371 --> 00:40:26,464
The river's glacial origins
are evident
646
00:40:26,591 --> 00:40:28,842
In its unusual silvery color.
647
00:40:30,220 --> 00:40:32,137
Tiny remnants of rocks
648
00:40:32,213 --> 00:40:34,297
That have been crushed
by the glacier
649
00:40:34,307 --> 00:40:37,475
Are suspended in the river,
650
00:40:37,602 --> 00:40:40,812
Creating an opaque-grey tint
in the rushing water.
651
00:40:43,391 --> 00:40:46,818
On its long journey
from glacier to sea,
652
00:40:46,895 --> 00:40:50,563
The river carves away
at the highland bedrock
653
00:40:50,574 --> 00:40:54,492
Washing away rock fragments
to widen the valley.
654
00:40:54,619 --> 00:41:01,666
(♪♪♪)
655
00:41:01,743 --> 00:41:04,502
As the current
nears the highlands,
656
00:41:04,671 --> 00:41:06,504
It builds in power,
657
00:41:06,581 --> 00:41:08,173
Forming rapids
658
00:41:08,249 --> 00:41:10,550
That plunge
into the canyon below.
659
00:41:12,003 --> 00:41:14,003
At the top of the falls,
660
00:41:14,014 --> 00:41:17,089
The force of the water
is powerful enough
661
00:41:17,100 --> 00:41:19,100
To flatten rocks at the edge.
662
00:41:23,681 --> 00:41:27,266
At the bottom,
the basin becomes larger
663
00:41:27,277 --> 00:41:31,354
As rushing water and sediment
wear away at the rock
664
00:41:31,364 --> 00:41:35,617
Causing the waterfall
to recede upstream.
665
00:41:35,693 --> 00:41:37,952
>> it's slowly carving
the canyon
666
00:41:38,029 --> 00:41:40,196
That we have
below the waterfall.
667
00:41:40,207 --> 00:41:45,293
So in time it's slowly moving
further inland,
668
00:41:45,370 --> 00:41:47,545
Carving the rock
that is underneath.
669
00:41:47,672 --> 00:41:49,631
So that's another form
of iceland
670
00:41:49,707 --> 00:41:51,374
Being under construction.
671
00:41:51,384 --> 00:41:53,718
If you would return
2,000 years from now,
672
00:41:53,795 --> 00:41:55,553
It would probably be
a little bit higher up
673
00:41:55,722 --> 00:41:56,888
Than it is now.
674
00:41:56,965 --> 00:42:02,977
(♪♪♪)
675
00:42:03,054 --> 00:42:06,055
>> dettifoss plummets
into a gorge,
676
00:42:06,066 --> 00:42:08,983
1,600 feet wide...
677
00:42:09,060 --> 00:42:12,320
...And 100 feet deep.
678
00:42:12,397 --> 00:42:14,656
This mighty canyon was formed
679
00:42:14,732 --> 00:42:17,400
By catastrophic
glacial flooding,
680
00:42:17,410 --> 00:42:19,869
Sometime after the last ice age.
681
00:42:24,242 --> 00:42:28,419
A volcanic eruption underneath
the vatnajokull glacier
682
00:42:28,496 --> 00:42:30,922
Is believed to be
the source of the flood.
683
00:42:32,676 --> 00:42:34,000
At its peak,
684
00:42:34,010 --> 00:42:36,594
The flood roared
over the plateau
685
00:42:36,805 --> 00:42:40,098
With four times the power
of the amazon river
686
00:42:40,174 --> 00:42:42,600
Taking out everything
in its path.
687
00:42:44,762 --> 00:42:48,022
The spectacular collision
of fire and ice
688
00:42:48,099 --> 00:42:50,149
Can wipe out entire landscapes.
689
00:42:52,779 --> 00:42:54,362
But as evidenced here,
690
00:42:54,439 --> 00:42:59,576
Fire and ice work together
to create stunning new worlds.
691
00:43:04,198 --> 00:43:07,783
In the north of iceland,
a barren plain,
692
00:43:07,794 --> 00:43:10,795
Scarred by lava
from a volcanic eruption
693
00:43:10,872 --> 00:43:13,873
More than 9,000 years ago,
694
00:43:13,883 --> 00:43:16,459
Gives way
to a tumbling waterfall,
695
00:43:16,469 --> 00:43:18,177
65 feet high.
696
00:43:20,798 --> 00:43:22,798
This is aldeyjarfoss.
697
00:43:22,809 --> 00:43:30,648
(♪♪♪)
698
00:43:30,775 --> 00:43:32,233
Foaming glacial water
699
00:43:32,310 --> 00:43:35,403
Gushes through
its narrow passage,
700
00:43:35,480 --> 00:43:40,408
Thrashing into a wide basin
surrounded by basalt columns.
701
00:43:42,904 --> 00:43:47,239
These peculiar formations
are the result of lava flows
702
00:43:47,250 --> 00:43:51,494
That have cooled quickly,
contracted and cracked
703
00:43:51,504 --> 00:43:55,256
To create precise
geometric structures.
704
00:43:55,333 --> 00:43:56,674
>> below the waterfall,
705
00:43:56,751 --> 00:43:59,919
We have this wonderful display
of the basalt columns
706
00:43:59,929 --> 00:44:01,420
That are hidden underground
707
00:44:01,431 --> 00:44:02,680
And we can only see them
708
00:44:02,891 --> 00:44:05,424
Because this raging
torrent of water
709
00:44:05,435 --> 00:44:10,271
Has carved this canyon for us
to get a peek into the earth.
710
00:44:10,348 --> 00:44:13,524
These basalt columns are not,
all of them straight.
711
00:44:13,601 --> 00:44:16,527
It's very interesting
to watch them in that area
712
00:44:16,604 --> 00:44:18,696
Because they're kind of--
they're curved,
713
00:44:18,865 --> 00:44:20,856
They're going in all
different directions.
714
00:44:20,867 --> 00:44:24,369
So around aldeyjarfoss,
we have nature
715
00:44:24,445 --> 00:44:27,530
Creating this
abstract piece of art for us.
716
00:44:27,540 --> 00:44:34,879
(♪♪♪)
717
00:44:34,956 --> 00:44:37,373
>> not only
do iceland's waterfalls sculpt
718
00:44:37,384 --> 00:44:40,551
Its ever-evolving landscape,
719
00:44:40,628 --> 00:44:43,471
They have also played
a pivotal role in its culture.
720
00:44:48,136 --> 00:44:51,053
Godafoss, in north iceland,
721
00:44:51,064 --> 00:44:53,139
Is closely connected
to one of the most
722
00:44:53,149 --> 00:44:57,902
Influential events
in the country's history:
723
00:44:57,979 --> 00:45:01,063
The conversion from heathendom
to christianity
724
00:45:01,074 --> 00:45:02,532
In the year 1000.
725
00:45:06,079 --> 00:45:09,580
According to legend,
iceland's lawspeaker,
726
00:45:09,657 --> 00:45:11,833
Himself a pagan priest,
727
00:45:11,909 --> 00:45:14,577
Was faced
with a growing religious crisis
728
00:45:14,587 --> 00:45:16,495
Between christians
729
00:45:16,506 --> 00:45:21,500
And those who worshipped
the old nordic gods.
730
00:45:21,511 --> 00:45:25,763
The lawspeaker declared
iceland would become christian.
731
00:45:25,840 --> 00:45:27,849
In a symbolic act,
732
00:45:27,925 --> 00:45:32,770
He hurled statues of the old
norse gods into the fall.
733
00:45:32,897 --> 00:45:36,190
Hence its name, godafoss,
734
00:45:36,267 --> 00:45:37,942
The waterfall of the gods.
735
00:45:42,031 --> 00:45:45,783
Even in the winter months,
when temperatures plummet
736
00:45:45,910 --> 00:45:48,527
And ice extends its grip,
737
00:45:48,538 --> 00:45:52,790
Iceland's waterfalls
continue to flow
738
00:45:52,917 --> 00:45:56,118
Due to the sheer power
of the glacial rivers
739
00:45:56,129 --> 00:45:59,121
That pour from
its tremendous ice caps.
740
00:45:59,132 --> 00:46:08,806
(♪♪♪)
741
00:46:08,975 --> 00:46:10,141
Iceland is alive.
742
00:46:13,980 --> 00:46:16,063
Its landscape
is ever-evolving.
743
00:46:18,726 --> 00:46:21,894
Glaciers
that appear frozen in time
744
00:46:21,905 --> 00:46:24,230
Are on the move,
745
00:46:24,240 --> 00:46:28,159
Cutting away mountains
and gouging out valleys
746
00:46:28,236 --> 00:46:30,286
As they advance and retreat.
747
00:46:32,665 --> 00:46:35,324
It is a challenging wilderness,
748
00:46:35,335 --> 00:46:40,579
A place where cold waves
crash onto volcanic rock,
749
00:46:40,590 --> 00:46:44,842
Where treacherous crevasses yawn
750
00:46:44,969 --> 00:46:46,803
And icebergs are born.
751
00:46:49,933 --> 00:46:52,433
Deep below its glaciers,
752
00:46:52,510 --> 00:46:57,104
Molten lava burns
and volcanoes stir
753
00:46:57,181 --> 00:46:59,524
As fire and ice collide.
754
00:47:01,269 --> 00:47:05,020
But climate change
has tipped the balance.
755
00:47:05,031 --> 00:47:08,866
Iceland's glaciers are melting,
756
00:47:08,943 --> 00:47:12,870
Freeing volcanoes
from their icy grip,
757
00:47:12,997 --> 00:47:17,616
Triggering violent eruptions
and thundering floods
758
00:47:17,627 --> 00:47:19,043
That sculpt the land.
759
00:47:23,207 --> 00:47:25,883
Glaciers play a tremendous role
760
00:47:26,094 --> 00:47:29,545
In iceland's
ever-changing environment.
761
00:47:29,556 --> 00:47:31,347
And yet
they are disappearing.
762
00:47:32,976 --> 00:47:36,143
Deep within the ice
lies history
763
00:47:36,220 --> 00:47:38,980
That scientists
need to extract
764
00:47:39,056 --> 00:47:41,023
Before it vanishes forever.
765
00:47:43,570 --> 00:47:47,530
In 200 years,
iceland's glaciers may be gone.
766
00:47:49,400 --> 00:47:50,733
For now,
767
00:47:50,743 --> 00:47:56,739
These icy giants
remain a frozen wonder.
768
00:47:56,749 --> 00:48:06,924
(♪♪♪)
769
00:48:07,010 --> 00:48:15,341
(♪♪♪)
770
00:48:15,351 --> 00:48:21,606
(♪♪♪)
64040
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