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Narrator: Iceland.
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The world's largest
volcanic island.
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Formed by fire.
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Home to some of the world's
fiercest volcanoes.
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>> for many, many years
it was actually a place
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That people feared.
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Considered being
the gateway to hell.
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Narrator: A volcanic hotbed.
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Where steam escapes.
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Water explodes.
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And new ground
is born every day.
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From deep inside the
earth's blazing core.
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00:00:45,671 --> 00:00:49,757
>> the geology is alive here.
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We have volcanic eruptions.
You can watch the lava moving.
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You can watch the plumes come up
and so, it seems to be alive.
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Narrator: Here, in one of
the world's most beautiful
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And volatile places,
fire and ice collide.
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>> many of the volcanoes
are underneath glaciers,
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So when they erupt we have
this spectacular display
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Of fire actually
coming out of the ice.
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Narrator: It is an epic struggle
that makes iceland
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The most geologically
powerful island on earth.
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♪♪♪
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♪♪♪
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♪♪♪
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April, 2010.
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Eyjafjallajokull, an
800,000-year-old volcano in the
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Southern reaches of iceland,
unleashes its terrible power.
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For 39 days, eyjafjallajokull
spews ash toward the sky,
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Creating a plume.
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That soars more than six
miles into the atmosphere.
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The mammoth cloud of ash
creeps across europe,
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Bringing global air
travel to its knees.
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Steffensen: Eyjafjallajokull is
by now our most famous volcano,
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And mainly of course, because
of the problems that it caused
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During its eruption in 2010,
when people were
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Sitting in airports all over the
world cursing this mountain.
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Narrator: Billions of dollars
are lost.
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Technology is no match for the
most violent extremes of nature.
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Steffensen: Looking at it was--
it was scary.
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The mountain itself is big,
and you could clearly
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Hear the explosions and the
rumble from this massive thing.
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And the plume of ash, even
though the mountain was big,
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It was dwarfing the
mountain underneath.
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Looking at something so large,
and there's absolutely nothing
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You can do about it,
is not a good feeling.
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When nature takes over,
you just have to sit and wait.
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Narrator: The eruption causes
flooding and destroys roads.
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Farms are damaged.
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Domestic animals poisoned
by the ash fall.
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The cloud of ash that turned
air traffic on its head
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Was the result of strong winds
and the titanic collision
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Between fire and ice.
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In icelandic,
eyjafjallajokull means
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'the island's
mountain glacier'.
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Steffensen: Many of the
volcanoes that we have or
places that erupt are
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Underneath glaciers,
underneath thick sheets of ice.
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So when they erupt, there is
kind of a battle where the heat
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From the fire underneath is
melting its way through the ice.
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Sometimes eventually making it
all the way through, and we have
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This spectacular display of fire
actually coming out of the ice.
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Narrator: This spectacular
display, the potent interaction
of magma
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And the overlying ice cap,
transformed eyjafjallajokull
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Into an international hazard.
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Steffensen: When it started
erupting, the first thing
that happened
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Was the heat from the magma
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And the eruption started
melting the ice.
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And most of the water went
flowing down the northern side
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Of the mountain, but a lot of it
actually filled up the crater
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Where the magma was coming out.
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00:05:31,198 --> 00:05:34,699
So the first thing that happened
when this red, glowing magma
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Came out of the earth was that
it got in contact with water
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And kind of exploded
into these tiny particles
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That were so light that they
were projected all the way up
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To the jet stream and all
over the world more or less.
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Narrator: But by
icelandic terms,
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Eyjafjallajokull was
not a major eruption.
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Nor was it the first time that
one of iceland's volcanoes
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Wrought havoc on the planet.
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More than 200 years ago
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A major eruption
devastated iceland.
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The terrible effects of
which were also felt
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Far beyond these shores.
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It is a disaster that would
leave thousands dead
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In its trail.
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At laki, in south-central
iceland, lava, forced out
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From a massive tear in the
earth and now solidified ,
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Stretches as far as
the eye can see.
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Now blanketed in thick, spongy
moss, this seemingly endless
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Lava field is the result of a
colossal fissure eruption.
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00:07:08,887 --> 00:07:13,473
A disastrous volcanic event
that had catastrophic effects
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Around the world.
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The laki eruption
began on June 8, 1783
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And lasted continuously
for more than eight months.
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As the earth repeatedly
ripped open,
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Terrifying amounts of lava
bubbled up through the crust.
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So much, that it would
have buried dallas, texas
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In more than 100 feet
of molten rock.
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It is the second-greatest
lava flood on earth
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In the last 1,000 years.
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Steffensen: The laki eruptions,
which occurred in 1783,
were massive.
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The ground split open,
there was a crack that opened
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That was about
25 kilometers long.
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00:08:09,781 --> 00:08:12,273
And the amount of lava
and ash coming out of that
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Was unbelievable.
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00:08:16,705 --> 00:08:19,614
The area that the lava ended
up covering by the time
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It finally stopped was about
600 square kilometers.
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It's difficult to
comprehend the size.
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You basically have
to see it from the air
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To realize how big it is.
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The laki eruption also sent
more than 100 million tons
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Of poisonous sulfur dioxide
into the atmosphere.
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The deadly haze caused
iceland's harvest to fail,
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Killed three-quarters of
its livestock, and plunged
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The island into a bitter famine
that killed one in five people.
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The thick fog that choked
iceland spread east over europe,
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Creating a lingering haze
that blocked out the sun.
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00:09:11,760 --> 00:09:14,427
Steffensen: They actually
believe that this eruption
was one of the reasons
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For the french revolution,
because there was so much ash
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00:09:18,091 --> 00:09:21,601
Coming out of the laki craters
that it ended up destroying
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The crops in europe, so
people ended up rising up
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And fighting their oppressors.
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00:09:28,101 --> 00:09:31,352
Narrator: Scientists believe
the lethal effects of laki
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00:09:31,363 --> 00:09:35,699
Were felt as far away
as india and japan.
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00:09:35,775 --> 00:09:40,912
An estimated two million people
died in its terrible aftermath.
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00:09:43,125 --> 00:09:48,086
The eruption at laki is one of
the deadliest in human history.
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The wrath of
iceland's volcanoes
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Has been felt outside
its borders.
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00:10:05,055 --> 00:10:10,725
But this is a country that
was built by volcanoes,
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And to this day volcanoes
continue to shape the land.
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00:10:20,153 --> 00:10:24,956
Without volcanoes,
there would be no iceland.
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00:10:32,424 --> 00:10:36,426
Iceland lies in the middle of
the north atlantic ocean, about
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200 miles east of greenland on
the edge of the arctic circle.
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00:10:44,928 --> 00:10:48,647
Mighty waterfalls
carve the savage landscape.
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00:10:51,943 --> 00:10:56,237
Stunning cliffs define 3,000
miles of jagged coastline.
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At the ragged edge
of the world,
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It is an island of extremes.
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Just one-fifth of
this hostile, alien land
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00:11:18,795 --> 00:11:24,215
Is inhabited by humans.
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00:11:24,226 --> 00:11:27,894
Iceland is roughly the size
of cuba, but contains
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00:11:27,971 --> 00:11:32,899
Less than one-thirtieth
of its population.
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It is one of the least-inhabited
countries on earth.
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Despite the geothermal heat
boiling under its crust,
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11 per cent of
iceland's landmass
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Is covered by glaciers,
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00:11:48,491 --> 00:11:51,826
Including the world's
third-largest ice-cap:
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00:11:51,837 --> 00:11:55,839
Vatnajokull.
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Rising above this icy world,
iceland's 30 active volcanoes
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Generate one-third of the
world's terrestrial lava.
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This frozen island is on fire.
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00:12:11,606 --> 00:12:15,775
But what makes this rugged
island, just 300 miles wide,
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Such a frightening
volcanic force?
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What inflames this lonely
outpost in the north atlantic?
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Geological clues are everywhere.
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At thingvellir plain in
the south-west of iceland,
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A giant gash in the valley
floor bears witness
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To the intense violence
that has shaped the island.
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Saemundsen: We are standing
within a fault
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That has been slowly moving
apart in the last 9,000 years.
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This is a basaltic lava wall
that's been torn apart
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From this one.
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Some 9,000 years ago they were
together and as all the years
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Have passed they are
slowly moving apart.
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00:13:28,758 --> 00:13:30,016
You think about the powers
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That are needed to tear
apart this landscape.
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That is mind-boggling
sometimes.
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Narrator: Iceland is
tearing apart at the rate
of one inch per year,
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About the same speed
that fingernails grow.
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The island is getting larger.
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Here, in this cracked valley,
something powerful is at work.
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A geological juggernaut
that runs right through
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The middle of the island:
The mid-atlantic ridge.
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It's one of earth's
longest mountain chains,
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Yet it's almost entirely
hidden beneath the sea.
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The mid-atlantic ridge
starts roughly midway
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Between south america
and africa
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In the frigid south atlantic
ocean and extends north
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For about 10,000 miles
to the arctic ocean.
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00:14:37,168 --> 00:14:40,578
In the north atlantic, it's the
boundary between north america
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00:14:40,589 --> 00:14:46,301
And eurasia: Two plates of land
that were once joined together.
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Driven by forces
deep within the earth,
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00:14:52,017 --> 00:14:56,177
The continental plates tear
apart moving east and west,
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Leaving a giant gash
in the earth's crust.
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Magma surges up and spews
out onto the ocean floor.
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00:15:06,856 --> 00:15:11,192
As it cools, it forms
new oceanic crust,
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00:15:11,202 --> 00:15:17,957
Forcing the older crust
away inch by inch.
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About 20 million years ago,
lava erupting from the
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Mid-atlantic ridge
emerged above the waves
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00:15:25,133 --> 00:15:31,545
To create a new landform:
Iceland.
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This otherworldly landscape
is essentially the sea floor
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00:15:36,469 --> 00:15:41,230
Pushed high above
the ocean surface.
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00:15:41,307 --> 00:15:45,652
Iceland straddles the dividing
line between the two plates.
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00:15:45,728 --> 00:15:51,232
It too is tearing apart.
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00:15:51,242 --> 00:15:53,409
The rift that splits
iceland in two
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00:15:53,486 --> 00:15:59,573
Runs from the southwest
to the northeast.
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00:15:59,584 --> 00:16:02,001
On the left, the
western part of the island
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00:16:02,128 --> 00:16:06,005
Belongs to the
north american plate,
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00:16:06,082 --> 00:16:09,384
The eastern part to
the eurasian plate.
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00:16:13,756 --> 00:16:16,432
Saemundsen: Here, you have
part of the north american
continent
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00:16:16,509 --> 00:16:20,853
That is drifting slowly to the
west and then, further out here,
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00:16:20,930 --> 00:16:25,608
We have the eurasian plate that
is slowly drifting to the east.
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00:16:29,239 --> 00:16:30,363
What you're looking into here
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00:16:30,440 --> 00:16:33,866
Is basically the side
of north america.
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00:16:33,943 --> 00:16:35,702
It's probably one of the
few places in the world
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Where you can look
into the side of it.
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00:16:40,709 --> 00:16:44,285
Narrator: Iceland will
continue to grow, east to west,
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00:16:44,295 --> 00:16:47,005
As the plates spread apart.
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00:16:51,803 --> 00:16:55,463
On the blackened lava plains
of the reykjanes peninsula,
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00:16:55,473 --> 00:17:00,217
A 50-foot steel footbridge
spans a broad fissure.
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00:17:00,228 --> 00:17:05,481
The bridge, named for the
icelandic explorer leif erikson,
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00:17:05,558 --> 00:17:08,484
Allows visitors to symbolically
walk the distance
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00:17:08,561 --> 00:17:11,529
From eurasia to north america.
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00:17:16,569 --> 00:17:21,080
For more adventurous explorers
there are places in iceland
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00:17:21,207 --> 00:17:24,825
Where the edges of the north
american and eurasian continents
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00:17:24,836 --> 00:17:27,712
Are within touching distance.
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00:17:32,844 --> 00:17:37,922
The silfra tectonic fissure,
on the rim of thingvellir lake,
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00:17:37,932 --> 00:17:42,185
Provides a unique opportunity
for underwater explorers
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00:17:42,261 --> 00:17:47,681
To float between continents.
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00:17:47,692 --> 00:17:51,685
In the narrowest reaches of
the fissure, divers can touch
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00:17:51,696 --> 00:17:55,156
Both north america
and eurasia at once.
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00:18:06,628 --> 00:18:10,371
Vita: This is the only place in
the world where you can stand
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00:18:10,381 --> 00:18:14,208
In the north atlantic
dorsal rift.
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00:18:14,219 --> 00:18:16,627
It's a ridge that goes from
north to south through the whole
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00:18:16,638 --> 00:18:23,142
Atlantic ocean and it only rises
to the surface here in iceland.
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00:18:23,219 --> 00:18:25,970
So actually it's quite unique
because we are in between
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00:18:25,980 --> 00:18:28,973
Two tectonic plates
and we are standing.
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00:18:28,983 --> 00:18:31,809
Normally, you have to be 4,000
meters depth in the ocean
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00:18:31,820 --> 00:18:34,979
To stand in a place like this.
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00:18:34,989 --> 00:18:38,908
Narrator: The water in silfra is
among the clearest and cleanest
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00:18:38,985 --> 00:18:43,162
In the world, the
result of a remarkable
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00:18:43,373 --> 00:18:46,749
Natural filtration process.
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00:18:46,826 --> 00:18:50,169
Water trickles underground
from a melting glacier
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00:18:50,380 --> 00:18:54,340
30 miles north
of the dive site.
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00:18:54,417 --> 00:18:57,176
The glacial melt water
percolates down through
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00:18:57,253 --> 00:19:02,006
Porous lava rock before it wells
up from underground springs
236
00:19:02,016 --> 00:19:06,185
Directly into silfra, a
process that can take
237
00:19:06,396 --> 00:19:11,274
Between 30 and 50 years.
238
00:19:11,350 --> 00:19:14,193
This naturally filtered,
crystal-clear water
239
00:19:14,404 --> 00:19:18,281
Has made silfra one of the
world's top dive sites.
240
00:19:18,357 --> 00:19:22,693
But with temperatures that hover
at 35 degrees year-round,
241
00:19:22,704 --> 00:19:25,621
It's not for the
faint-of-heart.
242
00:19:31,963 --> 00:19:36,382
Vita: Diving in silfra
is not easy at all.
243
00:19:36,459 --> 00:19:39,719
It's quite cold and
it's quite demanding.
244
00:19:39,795 --> 00:19:45,466
Your body needs to burn a
lot of energy to stay warm.
245
00:19:45,476 --> 00:19:48,227
More than one hour is not
recommended, not even with
246
00:19:48,304 --> 00:19:52,231
The best of the suits, because
you lose your heat very fast.
247
00:19:52,308 --> 00:19:56,235
It's very cold and
it can be dangerous.
248
00:19:56,404 --> 00:20:00,239
Besides the cold and the dry
suit, it's a fissure which is
249
00:20:00,450 --> 00:20:04,243
Very narrow, so it can be a
little bit claustrophobic.
250
00:20:04,370 --> 00:20:07,321
You need a lot of gear,
a lot of weight,
251
00:20:07,332 --> 00:20:11,584
So it's not the easiest dive
in the world, to be honest.
252
00:20:11,661 --> 00:20:13,836
But once you put your face in
the water and you get to see
253
00:20:13,913 --> 00:20:17,581
How clear the water is,
everything is worth it.
254
00:20:17,592 --> 00:20:20,009
Everything makes sense.
255
00:20:31,681 --> 00:20:33,940
Narrator: At grjotagja,
in the north of iceland,
256
00:20:34,016 --> 00:20:39,237
Another clear sign that the
earth is being ripped apart.
257
00:20:42,867 --> 00:20:45,284
But deep inside this dark abyss
258
00:20:45,495 --> 00:20:49,580
Is a surprisingly
inviting natural wonder.
259
00:20:53,044 --> 00:20:55,795
It's a world away
from the frigid waters
260
00:20:55,871 --> 00:20:58,297
Of the silfra fissure.
261
00:21:07,133 --> 00:21:09,308
An alluring hot spring beckons,
262
00:21:09,385 --> 00:21:15,064
Heated by magma
deep within the earth.
263
00:21:15,141 --> 00:21:17,141
Water in this
shimmering cave pool
264
00:21:17,151 --> 00:21:22,822
Simmers at more than 120
degrees, too hot for bathing.
265
00:21:25,401 --> 00:21:28,819
Hot springs like this are
pivotal to understanding
266
00:21:28,830 --> 00:21:31,539
How the island formed.
267
00:21:36,746 --> 00:21:39,171
Iceland is an
on-shore continuation
268
00:21:39,248 --> 00:21:43,584
Of the mid-atlantic ridge,
one of the few places
269
00:21:43,594 --> 00:21:50,016
Where this drowned mountain
chain reaches the surface.
270
00:21:50,092 --> 00:21:53,352
But what caused it,
and the island as a whole,
271
00:21:53,479 --> 00:21:57,690
To rise more than a mile
above the ocean floor?
272
00:22:05,024 --> 00:22:08,692
The answer lies with a
second geological force
273
00:22:08,703 --> 00:22:13,530
As indestructible as the rift
that tears iceland in two:
274
00:22:13,541 --> 00:22:19,128
Its inner fires, fueled by a
hot spot deep within the earth.
275
00:22:21,549 --> 00:22:24,216
There are more active
volcanoes in iceland
276
00:22:24,293 --> 00:22:29,388
Than anywhere else on earth.
277
00:22:29,599 --> 00:22:31,724
On average, the
country experiences
278
00:22:31,801 --> 00:22:36,812
A major eruption
every five years.
279
00:22:36,889 --> 00:22:40,974
The most forbidding of
iceland's volcanoes, hekla,
280
00:22:40,985 --> 00:22:46,947
Towers 5000 feet over a
landscape lain bare by lava.
281
00:22:50,536 --> 00:22:53,237
Steffensen: Hekla is special
in a way because --
282
00:22:53,247 --> 00:22:55,823
Because of the frequency
of the eruptions there.
283
00:22:55,833 --> 00:23:01,545
And since the settlement, we've
had about 20 eruptions there.
284
00:23:03,582 --> 00:23:06,008
Some of the eruptions have
been absolutely enormous,
285
00:23:06,085 --> 00:23:10,003
Creating just catastrophic
situations around it,
286
00:23:10,014 --> 00:23:15,601
Killing people and burying
farms in ash and pumice.
287
00:23:15,678 --> 00:23:19,263
So, for many, many years
it was actually a place
288
00:23:19,273 --> 00:23:20,689
That people feared.
289
00:23:20,766 --> 00:23:22,942
It was considered being
the gateway to hell
290
00:23:23,018 --> 00:23:28,531
And no one wanted
to go close to it.
291
00:23:28,607 --> 00:23:34,703
Narrator: Hekla lies alongside
the mid-atlantic ridge.
292
00:23:34,780 --> 00:23:38,040
A massive fissure similar
to the fractures found in
293
00:23:38,117 --> 00:23:42,837
Thingvellir valley tears through
the centre of the volcano.
294
00:23:47,802 --> 00:23:50,553
When hekla erupted
in the year 2000,
295
00:23:50,629 --> 00:23:54,131
The earth unzipped along
the fissure, unleashing
296
00:23:54,142 --> 00:23:59,553
A flow of lava more
than four miles long.
297
00:23:59,564 --> 00:24:02,306
The lava formed mountains,
298
00:24:02,316 --> 00:24:06,444
Each of which has its
origins deep underground.
299
00:24:14,403 --> 00:24:19,498
Iceland sits on what's known as
a hot spot: A plume of scorching
300
00:24:19,667 --> 00:24:26,255
Molten rock believed to be 100
miles wide and 400 miles deep.
301
00:24:34,932 --> 00:24:37,266
Lava erupting from
the hot spot cooled
302
00:24:37,343 --> 00:24:41,979
And accumulated to build
the island above the sea.
303
00:24:50,281 --> 00:24:56,026
Over 20 million years, iceland
has grown from a tiny seamount
304
00:24:56,037 --> 00:25:02,032
Into the world's largest
volcanic island.
305
00:25:02,043 --> 00:25:05,377
Thordarson: We have an
unusual amount of volcanic
activity in iceland.
306
00:25:05,454 --> 00:25:09,048
So the volcanoes are producing
more magma, molten rock,
307
00:25:09,124 --> 00:25:11,967
Than in most other places.
308
00:25:12,044 --> 00:25:15,554
Therefore, it's piling
up more material.
309
00:25:15,681 --> 00:25:18,382
And that all helps keep
iceland above sea level.
310
00:25:18,392 --> 00:25:19,725
If we wouldn't have this,
311
00:25:19,802 --> 00:25:22,937
Iceland would be 2000 meters
under the sea.
312
00:25:30,321 --> 00:25:36,984
Narrator: The volcanic
process that built iceland
continues today.
313
00:25:36,994 --> 00:25:40,996
As volcanoes erupt, and magma
from deep within the earth
314
00:25:41,073 --> 00:25:45,584
Rises to the surface
to create new land,
315
00:25:45,753 --> 00:25:50,256
Iceland is forever
being reborn.
316
00:25:54,929 --> 00:25:57,921
On the snaefellsnes peninsula,
317
00:25:57,932 --> 00:26:01,675
The most westerly point of
iceland, a volcanic cave
318
00:26:01,686 --> 00:26:07,314
Traces the path of a lava flow
more than 100 feet underground.
319
00:26:09,852 --> 00:26:12,611
Lava-tube caves like this form
320
00:26:12,688 --> 00:26:18,284
When the surface of
flowing lava cools.
321
00:26:18,360 --> 00:26:22,362
Molten rock solidifies along
the sides of the lava river
322
00:26:22,373 --> 00:26:26,041
And a hard crust forms on top.
323
00:26:35,052 --> 00:26:37,970
Hot lava flows through
this pipeline,
324
00:26:38,047 --> 00:26:41,015
Streaming up from
deep in the earth.
325
00:26:48,899 --> 00:26:53,143
When the eruption stops,
the lava ceases to flow,
326
00:26:53,154 --> 00:26:56,196
Leaving behind a hollow tube.
327
00:27:05,499 --> 00:27:09,168
Different colors on the walls
of the cave record the history
328
00:27:09,244 --> 00:27:14,748
Of eruptions: Layers of lava
piled one on top of the other
329
00:27:14,759 --> 00:27:18,677
Over thousands of years.
330
00:27:18,888 --> 00:27:20,921
Thordarson:
The geology is alive here.
331
00:27:20,931 --> 00:27:23,682
We have volcanic eruptions.
You can watch the lava moving.
332
00:27:23,759 --> 00:27:30,514
You can watch the plumes come
up, and so it seems to be alive.
333
00:27:30,524 --> 00:27:33,692
Narrator: Nowhere is this living
breathing earth more evident
334
00:27:33,769 --> 00:27:36,937
Than here, in the
southern lowlands
335
00:27:36,947 --> 00:27:41,200
Where the earth's
inner fires boil over.
336
00:28:20,232 --> 00:28:25,569
Strokkur, a powerful fountain
cast from deep within the earth,
337
00:28:25,579 --> 00:28:31,575
Soars into the
icelandic twilight.
338
00:28:31,585 --> 00:28:35,754
In this pool, geysir, the
first natural geyser known to
339
00:28:35,965 --> 00:28:41,251
Europeans, now lies dormant
on this geothermal plain.
340
00:28:41,262 --> 00:28:45,922
In icelandic, the word
'geysa' means 'to gush'.
341
00:28:45,933 --> 00:28:51,729
It is from this place that the
world's geysers take their name.
342
00:28:58,446 --> 00:29:00,612
Strokkur is far more active,
343
00:29:00,689 --> 00:29:06,285
Erupting every eight
to 10 minutes.
344
00:29:06,361 --> 00:29:09,037
The geyser explodes from
vents in the earth's surface
345
00:29:09,114 --> 00:29:13,033
That run deep into the crust.
346
00:29:13,043 --> 00:29:17,204
These hydrothermal eruptions are
the result of cold rainwater
347
00:29:17,214 --> 00:29:23,552
Seeping down through fractured
bedrock onto hot volcanic rock.
348
00:29:23,629 --> 00:29:26,305
The water trapped
underground is super-heated
349
00:29:26,381 --> 00:29:29,549
And converts to vapor
that would normally fill
350
00:29:29,560 --> 00:29:35,472
1,600 times more space than
the original volume of water.
351
00:29:35,483 --> 00:29:39,568
But it remains trapped
under intense pressure.
352
00:29:39,645 --> 00:29:43,146
The steam explodes from
this subterranean furnace,
353
00:29:43,157 --> 00:29:46,566
Passing through liquid
groundwater near the surface,
354
00:29:46,577 --> 00:29:50,454
Jetting more than
60 feet into the air.
355
00:29:59,673 --> 00:30:02,090
On the flank of
an active volcano,
356
00:30:02,167 --> 00:30:07,095
Steaming fumaroles hiss
into the cold atlantic sky.
357
00:30:12,937 --> 00:30:15,679
Fumaroles are vents
in the earth's crust,
358
00:30:15,689 --> 00:30:20,859
Similar to geysers, yet they
only emit steam, not water,
359
00:30:20,986 --> 00:30:25,689
And volcanic gases
such as hydrogen sulfide.
360
00:30:25,699 --> 00:30:30,277
Superheated to temperatures
as high as 280 degrees,
361
00:30:30,287 --> 00:30:33,530
The cool groundwater
deep within this system
362
00:30:33,541 --> 00:30:37,251
Has entirely
transformed to vapor.
363
00:30:52,977 --> 00:30:56,144
Hydrogen sulfide
rising through surface water
364
00:30:56,221 --> 00:31:00,640
Produces sulfuric acid,
strong enough to dissolve
365
00:31:00,651 --> 00:31:06,113
The surrounding rock and soil
to create boiling mudpots.
366
00:31:21,163 --> 00:31:24,339
Sulfurous steam clouds
and colorful minerals
367
00:31:24,416 --> 00:31:27,509
In the ground paint
the geothermal field
368
00:31:27,586 --> 00:31:33,682
With an almost
extraterrestrial beauty.
369
00:31:33,759 --> 00:31:39,938
But there's real danger here.
370
00:31:40,065 --> 00:31:43,191
Visitors who venture too
close risk breaking through
371
00:31:43,268 --> 00:31:47,354
The fragile mineral crust
and scalding themselves
372
00:31:47,364 --> 00:31:50,198
In the boiling pools.
373
00:31:55,530 --> 00:31:57,197
Sulfur is one of the elements
374
00:31:57,207 --> 00:32:01,960
Often found deposited
at hot springs.
375
00:32:02,087 --> 00:32:03,378
In previous centuries,
376
00:32:03,455 --> 00:32:08,091
The sulfur was mined in
iceland to make gunpowder.
377
00:32:14,549 --> 00:32:17,392
Today, icelanders harness
natural resources
378
00:32:17,469 --> 00:32:21,313
For their own needs: Boring
into the ground for the steam
379
00:32:21,390 --> 00:32:26,109
That spins turbines to
generate geothermal power.
380
00:32:28,730 --> 00:32:31,398
Steffensen: The geothermal
power plants that we have
381
00:32:31,408 --> 00:32:35,819
Produce about 30 percent of the
energy that we have in iceland.
382
00:32:35,829 --> 00:32:38,747
Of course it's brilliant to
be able to produce energy
383
00:32:38,824 --> 00:32:41,825
In a green way like that.
384
00:32:41,835 --> 00:32:44,002
There's no, or hardly any
pollution and it's a very
385
00:32:44,213 --> 00:32:47,664
Green way to keep life
in iceland going.
386
00:32:47,675 --> 00:32:50,250
There's always the downside
that in order to create those
387
00:32:50,260 --> 00:32:52,844
Power plants you have to build
structures and you have to
388
00:32:52,921 --> 00:32:55,672
Drill and you have to have
pipes on the surface.
389
00:32:55,683 --> 00:33:01,520
So there are mixed emotions when
it comes to these power plants.
390
00:33:16,453 --> 00:33:21,039
Narrator: Iceland's two mighty
geological powers,
391
00:33:21,208 --> 00:33:28,046
The mid-atlantic ridge and
the deep icelandic hotspot,
392
00:33:28,123 --> 00:33:32,208
Create a dangerous volcanic
force capable of generating
393
00:33:32,219 --> 00:33:37,014
More land-based lava than
any place else on earth.
394
00:33:42,396 --> 00:33:44,896
Saemundsen: We are on the
mid-atlantic ridge, but
it's above water
395
00:33:44,973 --> 00:33:48,066
Because the hot mantle plume is
pushing it above the sea level.
396
00:33:48,277 --> 00:33:51,069
So, all of iceland in a way,
when you drive around iceland,
397
00:33:51,146 --> 00:33:53,321
You see mountains and hills.
398
00:33:53,398 --> 00:33:54,906
They're all the result of
some volcanic activity
399
00:33:54,983 --> 00:33:56,733
At some point in time.
400
00:33:56,744 --> 00:33:59,077
So, iceland is one big volcano.
401
00:34:07,496 --> 00:34:11,339
Narrator: South-central
iceland is the site of
the greatest lava flood
402
00:34:11,416 --> 00:34:16,094
Of the last 1,000 years.
403
00:34:16,221 --> 00:34:19,339
Cutting through the
lava field is eldgja,
404
00:34:19,349 --> 00:34:23,852
The largest volcanic
canyon on the planet.
405
00:34:23,929 --> 00:34:25,845
Five miles long.
406
00:34:25,856 --> 00:34:28,431
1300 feet wide.
407
00:34:28,442 --> 00:34:31,068
500 feet deep.
408
00:34:37,284 --> 00:34:39,776
The canyon's flat
bottom confirms
409
00:34:39,787 --> 00:34:43,780
That it isn't a valley
carved by water.
410
00:34:43,791 --> 00:34:49,127
It was formed by
a more fiery power.
411
00:34:49,296 --> 00:34:54,874
In icelandic, eldgja
means 'canyon of fire'.
412
00:34:54,885 --> 00:35:00,806
It's part of an eruptive fissure
that stretches for 45 miles.
413
00:35:00,882 --> 00:35:04,142
The canyon appeared in 934 ad
414
00:35:04,219 --> 00:35:07,637
During an extremely
violent eruption.
415
00:35:07,648 --> 00:35:11,558
Far more powerful than
the laki lava flow in 1783
416
00:35:11,568 --> 00:35:17,564
That killed 20 per cent
of iceland's population.
417
00:35:17,574 --> 00:35:21,409
But this lava didn't
erupt from a circular crater.
418
00:35:21,486 --> 00:35:26,322
Instead, fountains of basalt
lava spewed from a thin fissure
419
00:35:26,333 --> 00:35:31,494
In the earth's crust
nearly 20 miles long,
420
00:35:31,505 --> 00:35:34,747
An unusual but natural
phenomenon found along
421
00:35:34,758 --> 00:35:39,136
The entire underwater stretch
of the mid-atlantic ridge.
422
00:35:43,925 --> 00:35:48,186
The eruption likely
lasted for years.
423
00:35:48,263 --> 00:35:51,189
More than three
cubic miles of basalt lava
424
00:35:51,266 --> 00:35:55,777
Oozed from the fissure,
spreading across a lava field
425
00:35:55,854 --> 00:36:00,198
That covers more
than 250 square miles.
426
00:36:00,275 --> 00:36:04,694
The largest lava field the earth
has known since the ice age.
427
00:36:07,532 --> 00:36:11,701
In iceland, large eruptions
like laki and eldgja
428
00:36:11,712 --> 00:36:15,455
Occur every few hundred years.
429
00:36:15,465 --> 00:36:18,625
The chances of another
catastrophic volcanic event
430
00:36:18,635 --> 00:36:21,553
Are highly likely.
431
00:36:28,637 --> 00:36:32,230
Icelanders still live under
constant threat of eruptions,
432
00:36:32,441 --> 00:36:36,234
Which occur on
average every five years.
433
00:36:36,311 --> 00:36:40,897
In the shadow of volcanoes,
people have learned to adapt.
434
00:36:40,908 --> 00:36:43,483
Most live on the
edge of the island,
435
00:36:43,493 --> 00:36:49,489
In coastal towns and cities.
436
00:36:49,499 --> 00:36:53,585
Rural areas are
largely uninhabited
437
00:36:53,662 --> 00:36:57,214
Except for those where
the land can be farmed.
438
00:37:05,432 --> 00:37:08,934
Steffensen: The volcanoes are
not close to cities or towns.
439
00:37:09,010 --> 00:37:11,770
So the people living closest
to them are usually farmers
440
00:37:11,846 --> 00:37:13,355
And they and their families
441
00:37:13,431 --> 00:37:15,273
Have been living there
for generations.
442
00:37:15,350 --> 00:37:16,942
They know that
these things are there.
443
00:37:17,018 --> 00:37:21,488
They know that they might
erupt every now and then.
444
00:37:24,117 --> 00:37:27,118
Narrator: Hekla, one of
iceland's most-active volcanoes,
445
00:37:27,195 --> 00:37:33,533
Erupts almost without warning.
446
00:37:33,543 --> 00:37:37,295
Seismic activity at hekla was
detected less than 90 minutes
447
00:37:37,422 --> 00:37:41,925
Prior to four eruptions
in the late 20th century.
448
00:37:46,515 --> 00:37:49,140
Geologists monitor
unrest in hekla,
449
00:37:49,217 --> 00:37:55,313
Looking for telltale signs
of a possible eruption.
450
00:37:55,524 --> 00:37:56,806
Thordarson: We do monitor
them and they monitor
451
00:37:56,817 --> 00:37:58,891
The icelandic volcanoes
very closely.
452
00:37:58,902 --> 00:38:02,821
Basically, it measures the
deformation of the ground.
453
00:38:02,897 --> 00:38:05,323
As magma comes in, it
will lift the ground up
454
00:38:05,400 --> 00:38:09,485
And change its sort of
orientation and deform it.
455
00:38:09,496 --> 00:38:12,739
And so that's one way of
detecting something happening
456
00:38:12,749 --> 00:38:17,836
Underneath the volcano.
457
00:38:17,912 --> 00:38:19,671
Steffensen: These volcanoes that
are close to where people live
458
00:38:19,748 --> 00:38:22,173
Are monitored quite
carefully so that scientists
459
00:38:22,250 --> 00:38:25,093
And the authorities can predict
if something is going to happen
460
00:38:25,170 --> 00:38:27,587
And they can issue warnings.
461
00:38:27,597 --> 00:38:29,922
But usually when they do so,
if they do issue warnings,
462
00:38:29,933 --> 00:38:33,092
The farmers, they already
know, because they can
463
00:38:33,103 --> 00:38:35,595
Judge by the behavior
of their animals.
464
00:38:35,605 --> 00:38:39,024
They seem to sense
this way before we do.
465
00:38:44,698 --> 00:38:48,616
Narrator: In the southern
highlands, the mountains
of landmannalaugar
466
00:38:48,693 --> 00:38:51,944
Form one of iceland's
most striking and beautiful
467
00:38:51,955 --> 00:38:54,331
Natural wonders.
468
00:39:00,288 --> 00:39:04,457
The mountains were built from
rhyolite, a lava rich in silica,
469
00:39:04,468 --> 00:39:09,387
Which cools slowly
after it erupts.
470
00:39:09,556 --> 00:39:13,132
Rhyolite has the same
mineral composition as granite,
471
00:39:13,143 --> 00:39:16,978
Which cools deep
within the earth.
472
00:39:17,055 --> 00:39:21,974
Iron oxide in the rock creates
these multicolored peaks.
473
00:39:24,571 --> 00:39:29,574
Landmannalaugar rests on the
edge of a rambling lava field
474
00:39:29,651 --> 00:39:34,412
Formed by an eruption
in the late 15th century.
475
00:39:34,489 --> 00:39:37,916
It too glitters with rhyolite.
476
00:39:43,090 --> 00:39:46,165
The caramel-colored mountains
that surround the lava field
477
00:39:46,176 --> 00:39:49,761
Are the starting point
of an epic four-day trek
478
00:39:49,838 --> 00:39:51,429
Through the highlands.
479
00:39:51,640 --> 00:39:55,517
It's considered one of
the world's finest hikes.
480
00:40:03,652 --> 00:40:05,026
J.R.R. Tolkien,
481
00:40:05,103 --> 00:40:07,779
Author of the hobbit
and the lord of the rings,
482
00:40:07,856 --> 00:40:11,274
Was fascinated by iceland.
483
00:40:11,284 --> 00:40:13,860
These southern highlands
are believed to have inspired
484
00:40:13,870 --> 00:40:16,538
The landscape of middle earth.
485
00:40:22,129 --> 00:40:25,705
In the northeast of iceland,
the twisted rock towers
486
00:40:25,715 --> 00:40:31,469
Of dimmuborgir rise like ruined
citadels over a field of lava.
487
00:40:37,218 --> 00:40:39,886
This remarkable,
sinister domain,
488
00:40:39,896 --> 00:40:44,140
Also reminiscent of tolkien, was
sculpted by a volcanic eruption
489
00:40:44,151 --> 00:40:47,444
More than 2,000 years ago.
490
00:40:53,702 --> 00:40:56,986
Lava flowing from a large
explosion to the east
491
00:40:56,997 --> 00:41:01,958
Pooled over a small lake,
trapping the water underneath.
492
00:41:05,163 --> 00:41:07,589
The lake boiled as if on fire,
493
00:41:07,665 --> 00:41:11,167
Sending columns
of steam skyward.
494
00:41:11,178 --> 00:41:15,763
Molten rock wrapped
around the vapor plumes.
495
00:41:15,840 --> 00:41:19,517
When the lava cooled and
its top crust collapsed,
496
00:41:19,686 --> 00:41:23,897
Only these hollow pillars
of solidified lava remained.
497
00:41:29,187 --> 00:41:35,024
These columns of mangled
rock rise as high as 100 feet.
498
00:41:37,862 --> 00:41:41,789
Church-like structures also
formed around bubbles of vapor
499
00:41:41,866 --> 00:41:44,709
Are large enough
to harbor humans.
500
00:41:49,716 --> 00:41:54,302
In icelandic, dimmuborgir
means 'dark castles'.
501
00:41:54,379 --> 00:41:56,963
The site was long believed
to be the meeting point
502
00:41:56,973 --> 00:41:59,891
Between earth
and the netherworld.
503
00:42:09,694 --> 00:42:13,071
According to nordic christian
lore, satan landed here
504
00:42:13,147 --> 00:42:15,573
After being cast
from the heavens
505
00:42:15,784 --> 00:42:19,577
And created these bulging
'catacombs of hell'.
506
00:42:24,334 --> 00:42:29,128
But amid the tangled darkness
there is simple beauty.
507
00:42:31,758 --> 00:42:34,259
Dimmuborgir
blooms with thickets,
508
00:42:34,335 --> 00:42:40,682
Alpine plants and moss.
509
00:42:40,758 --> 00:42:44,677
Each time the volcano
wields its destructive power,
510
00:42:44,688 --> 00:42:49,232
The ground heals and
new life springs again.
511
00:42:59,944 --> 00:43:02,862
Iceland's volcanoes blast.
512
00:43:02,872 --> 00:43:04,372
Burn.
513
00:43:04,449 --> 00:43:06,115
And melt.
514
00:43:06,126 --> 00:43:11,796
Bringing to bear
unthinkable chaos.
515
00:43:11,873 --> 00:43:14,632
But occasionally,
lava spills from the earth
516
00:43:14,843 --> 00:43:19,462
To create formations
so uniform, so ordered,
517
00:43:19,472 --> 00:43:22,599
That they appear man-made.
518
00:43:32,819 --> 00:43:36,395
At reynisfjara, iceland's
southernmost beach,
519
00:43:36,406 --> 00:43:39,824
Thousands of basalt
columns stand tall,
520
00:43:39,901 --> 00:43:43,077
300 feet above
the slate-grey sand.
521
00:43:50,253 --> 00:43:54,005
The question that has
puzzled people for centuries:
522
00:43:54,082 --> 00:43:58,968
How did a volcano produce such
precise geometric structures?
523
00:44:06,186 --> 00:44:12,440
The answer comes
down to physics.
524
00:44:12,517 --> 00:44:14,433
Thordarson:
Columns form because
525
00:44:14,444 --> 00:44:18,938
When the liquid lava
cools down, it contracts.
526
00:44:18,948 --> 00:44:22,700
And so, the solid lava is--
has a volume that's roughly
527
00:44:22,911 --> 00:44:27,955
10 percent less than the liquid
lava and so it accommodates
528
00:44:28,032 --> 00:44:30,449
For this volume change
by forming these joints
529
00:44:30,460 --> 00:44:36,205
That are demarcated
as columnar joints.
530
00:44:36,216 --> 00:44:37,957
So they form the columns
because of this contraction,
531
00:44:37,967 --> 00:44:41,469
And they're usually
hexagonal in form.
532
00:44:43,381 --> 00:44:48,559
Narrator: These hexagonal
basalt columns appear
throughout the world:
533
00:44:48,636 --> 00:44:52,730
In washington and wyoming
in the united states,
534
00:44:52,899 --> 00:44:56,726
And at the giant's causeway
in northern ireland.
535
00:44:59,572 --> 00:45:03,149
The process that
forms columnar basalt
536
00:45:03,159 --> 00:45:07,245
Is part of the ongoing
creation of iceland,
537
00:45:08,331 --> 00:45:14,210
A powerful island
forever renewing itself
through volcanic unrest.
538
00:45:19,834 --> 00:45:23,845
The geological violence
that built iceland
539
00:45:23,921 --> 00:45:29,592
Is also tearing it apart.
540
00:45:29,602 --> 00:45:32,770
The earth rips open.
541
00:45:32,981 --> 00:45:36,849
The ground hisses.
542
00:45:36,860 --> 00:45:39,736
And volcanoes explode.
543
00:45:44,275 --> 00:45:47,026
And the power that burns
deep within our planet
544
00:45:47,036 --> 00:45:51,372
Continues its unrelenting
drive to escape.
545
00:45:54,961 --> 00:46:09,632
♪♪♪
546
00:46:09,642 --> 00:46:19,817
♪♪♪
547
00:46:19,903 --> 00:46:24,647
♪♪♪
548
00:46:24,657 --> 00:46:35,792
♪♪♪
50513
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