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Would you like to inspect the original subtitles? These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:03,379 --> 00:00:05,704 Narrator: Iceland. 2 00:00:05,715 --> 00:00:10,876 The world's largest volcanic island. 3 00:00:10,886 --> 00:00:14,138 Formed by fire. 4 00:00:14,214 --> 00:00:18,892 Home to some of the world's fiercest volcanoes. 5 00:00:18,969 --> 00:00:21,395 >> for many, many years it was actually a place 6 00:00:21,472 --> 00:00:22,471 That people feared. 7 00:00:22,481 --> 00:00:25,223 Considered being the gateway to hell. 8 00:00:25,234 --> 00:00:28,736 Narrator: A volcanic hotbed. 9 00:00:28,812 --> 00:00:31,488 Where steam escapes. 10 00:00:31,565 --> 00:00:36,401 Water explodes. 11 00:00:36,412 --> 00:00:40,655 And new ground is born every day. 12 00:00:40,666 --> 00:00:45,660 From deep inside the earth's blazing core. 13 00:00:45,671 --> 00:00:49,757 >> the geology is alive here. 14 00:00:49,833 --> 00:00:52,676 We have volcanic eruptions. You can watch the lava moving. 15 00:00:52,753 --> 00:00:57,756 You can watch the plumes come up and so, it seems to be alive. 16 00:00:57,767 --> 00:01:00,425 Narrator: Here, in one of the world's most beautiful 17 00:01:00,436 --> 00:01:06,690 And volatile places, fire and ice collide. 18 00:01:06,767 --> 00:01:09,693 >> many of the volcanoes are underneath glaciers, 19 00:01:09,770 --> 00:01:12,854 So when they erupt we have this spectacular display 20 00:01:12,865 --> 00:01:15,690 Of fire actually coming out of the ice. 21 00:01:15,701 --> 00:01:18,619 Narrator: It is an epic struggle that makes iceland 22 00:01:18,695 --> 00:01:23,082 The most geologically powerful island on earth. 23 00:01:26,787 --> 00:01:36,795 ♪♪♪ 24 00:01:36,806 --> 00:01:46,855 ♪♪♪ 25 00:01:46,857 --> 00:02:00,869 ♪♪♪ 26 00:02:08,495 --> 00:02:11,171 April, 2010. 27 00:02:11,298 --> 00:02:15,250 Eyjafjallajokull, an 800,000-year-old volcano in the 28 00:02:15,261 --> 00:02:19,805 Southern reaches of iceland, unleashes its terrible power. 29 00:02:24,595 --> 00:02:30,774 For 39 days, eyjafjallajokull spews ash toward the sky, 30 00:02:30,851 --> 00:02:33,193 Creating a plume. 31 00:02:33,320 --> 00:02:37,606 That soars more than six miles into the atmosphere. 32 00:02:40,444 --> 00:02:44,288 The mammoth cloud of ash creeps across europe, 33 00:02:44,364 --> 00:02:49,459 Bringing global air travel to its knees. 34 00:02:49,536 --> 00:02:54,456 Steffensen: Eyjafjallajokull is by now our most famous volcano, 35 00:02:54,466 --> 00:02:57,217 And mainly of course, because of the problems that it caused 36 00:02:57,294 --> 00:03:00,879 During its eruption in 2010, when people were 37 00:03:00,890 --> 00:03:06,059 Sitting in airports all over the world cursing this mountain. 38 00:03:06,136 --> 00:03:09,554 Narrator: Billions of dollars are lost. 39 00:03:09,565 --> 00:03:15,560 Technology is no match for the most violent extremes of nature. 40 00:03:15,571 --> 00:03:20,199 Steffensen: Looking at it was-- it was scary. 41 00:03:24,655 --> 00:03:27,998 The mountain itself is big, and you could clearly 42 00:03:28,075 --> 00:03:32,753 Hear the explosions and the rumble from this massive thing. 43 00:03:32,829 --> 00:03:36,256 And the plume of ash, even though the mountain was big, 44 00:03:36,333 --> 00:03:42,012 It was dwarfing the mountain underneath. 45 00:03:42,089 --> 00:03:48,093 Looking at something so large, and there's absolutely nothing 46 00:03:48,103 --> 00:03:51,596 You can do about it, is not a good feeling. 47 00:03:51,607 --> 00:03:57,277 When nature takes over, you just have to sit and wait. 48 00:03:57,404 --> 00:04:01,114 Narrator: The eruption causes flooding and destroys roads. 49 00:04:01,191 --> 00:04:04,025 Farms are damaged. 50 00:04:04,036 --> 00:04:07,829 Domestic animals poisoned by the ash fall. 51 00:04:15,956 --> 00:04:19,299 The cloud of ash that turned air traffic on its head 52 00:04:19,426 --> 00:04:24,129 Was the result of strong winds and the titanic collision 53 00:04:24,139 --> 00:04:28,883 Between fire and ice. 54 00:04:28,894 --> 00:04:31,720 In icelandic, eyjafjallajokull means 55 00:04:31,730 --> 00:04:35,056 'the island's mountain glacier'. 56 00:04:35,067 --> 00:04:38,652 Steffensen: Many of the volcanoes that we have or places that erupt are 57 00:04:38,729 --> 00:04:42,698 Underneath glaciers, underneath thick sheets of ice. 58 00:04:44,576 --> 00:04:48,328 So when they erupt, there is kind of a battle where the heat 59 00:04:48,539 --> 00:04:51,573 From the fire underneath is melting its way through the ice. 60 00:04:51,583 --> 00:04:54,334 Sometimes eventually making it all the way through, and we have 61 00:04:54,503 --> 00:04:58,297 This spectacular display of fire actually coming out of the ice. 62 00:05:00,500 --> 00:05:05,345 Narrator: This spectacular display, the potent interaction of magma 63 00:05:05,556 --> 00:05:09,758 And the overlying ice cap, transformed eyjafjallajokull 64 00:05:09,768 --> 00:05:12,844 Into an international hazard. 65 00:05:12,855 --> 00:05:15,513 Steffensen: When it started erupting, the first thing that happened 66 00:05:15,524 --> 00:05:18,850 Was the heat from the magma 67 00:05:18,861 --> 00:05:20,769 And the eruption started melting the ice. 68 00:05:20,779 --> 00:05:23,855 And most of the water went flowing down the northern side 69 00:05:23,866 --> 00:05:28,368 Of the mountain, but a lot of it actually filled up the crater 70 00:05:28,537 --> 00:05:31,121 Where the magma was coming out. 71 00:05:31,198 --> 00:05:34,699 So the first thing that happened when this red, glowing magma 72 00:05:34,710 --> 00:05:38,378 Came out of the earth was that it got in contact with water 73 00:05:38,455 --> 00:05:42,123 And kind of exploded into these tiny particles 74 00:05:42,134 --> 00:05:44,459 That were so light that they were projected all the way up 75 00:05:44,470 --> 00:05:48,889 To the jet stream and all over the world more or less. 76 00:05:51,718 --> 00:05:53,551 Narrator: But by icelandic terms, 77 00:05:53,562 --> 00:05:57,639 Eyjafjallajokull was not a major eruption. 78 00:05:57,649 --> 00:06:00,892 Nor was it the first time that one of iceland's volcanoes 79 00:06:00,903 --> 00:06:03,528 Wrought havoc on the planet. 80 00:06:09,152 --> 00:06:11,411 More than 200 years ago 81 00:06:11,538 --> 00:06:15,248 A major eruption devastated iceland. 82 00:06:15,325 --> 00:06:17,992 The terrible effects of which were also felt 83 00:06:18,003 --> 00:06:24,257 Far beyond these shores. 84 00:06:24,334 --> 00:06:27,001 It is a disaster that would leave thousands dead 85 00:06:27,012 --> 00:06:29,679 In its trail. 86 00:06:38,348 --> 00:06:42,442 At laki, in south-central iceland, lava, forced out 87 00:06:42,519 --> 00:06:46,446 From a massive tear in the earth and now solidified , 88 00:06:46,657 --> 00:06:49,825 Stretches as far as the eye can see. 89 00:06:55,666 --> 00:07:00,794 Now blanketed in thick, spongy moss, this seemingly endless 90 00:07:00,871 --> 00:07:05,757 Lava field is the result of a colossal fissure eruption. 91 00:07:08,887 --> 00:07:13,473 A disastrous volcanic event that had catastrophic effects 92 00:07:13,642 --> 00:07:15,434 Around the world. 93 00:07:19,222 --> 00:07:24,734 The laki eruption began on June 8, 1783 94 00:07:24,811 --> 00:07:30,157 And lasted continuously for more than eight months. 95 00:07:30,233 --> 00:07:32,325 As the earth repeatedly ripped open, 96 00:07:32,402 --> 00:07:38,656 Terrifying amounts of lava bubbled up through the crust. 97 00:07:38,667 --> 00:07:41,993 So much, that it would have buried dallas, texas 98 00:07:42,004 --> 00:07:47,507 In more than 100 feet of molten rock. 99 00:07:47,584 --> 00:07:50,510 It is the second-greatest lava flood on earth 100 00:07:50,679 --> 00:07:54,255 In the last 1,000 years. 101 00:07:54,266 --> 00:08:02,939 Steffensen: The laki eruptions, which occurred in 1783, were massive. 102 00:08:03,016 --> 00:08:06,768 The ground split open, there was a crack that opened 103 00:08:06,778 --> 00:08:09,771 That was about 25 kilometers long. 104 00:08:09,781 --> 00:08:12,273 And the amount of lava and ash coming out of that 105 00:08:12,284 --> 00:08:16,694 Was unbelievable. 106 00:08:16,705 --> 00:08:19,614 The area that the lava ended up covering by the time 107 00:08:19,625 --> 00:08:23,877 It finally stopped was about 600 square kilometers. 108 00:08:23,954 --> 00:08:25,795 It's difficult to comprehend the size. 109 00:08:25,872 --> 00:08:27,622 You basically have to see it from the air 110 00:08:27,633 --> 00:08:31,042 To realize how big it is. 111 00:08:31,053 --> 00:08:35,213 The laki eruption also sent more than 100 million tons 112 00:08:35,224 --> 00:08:41,311 Of poisonous sulfur dioxide into the atmosphere. 113 00:08:41,388 --> 00:08:45,565 The deadly haze caused iceland's harvest to fail, 114 00:08:45,734 --> 00:08:48,568 Killed three-quarters of its livestock, and plunged 115 00:08:48,645 --> 00:08:53,990 The island into a bitter famine that killed one in five people. 116 00:08:59,164 --> 00:09:03,917 The thick fog that choked iceland spread east over europe, 117 00:09:03,994 --> 00:09:08,296 Creating a lingering haze that blocked out the sun. 118 00:09:11,760 --> 00:09:14,427 Steffensen: They actually believe that this eruption was one of the reasons 119 00:09:14,504 --> 00:09:18,014 For the french revolution, because there was so much ash 120 00:09:18,091 --> 00:09:21,601 Coming out of the laki craters that it ended up destroying 121 00:09:21,770 --> 00:09:24,604 The crops in europe, so people ended up rising up 122 00:09:24,731 --> 00:09:28,024 And fighting their oppressors. 123 00:09:28,101 --> 00:09:31,352 Narrator: Scientists believe the lethal effects of laki 124 00:09:31,363 --> 00:09:35,699 Were felt as far away as india and japan. 125 00:09:35,775 --> 00:09:40,912 An estimated two million people died in its terrible aftermath. 126 00:09:43,125 --> 00:09:48,086 The eruption at laki is one of the deadliest in human history. 127 00:09:55,712 --> 00:09:57,637 The wrath of iceland's volcanoes 128 00:09:57,848 --> 00:10:01,016 Has been felt outside its borders. 129 00:10:05,055 --> 00:10:10,725 But this is a country that was built by volcanoes, 130 00:10:10,736 --> 00:10:15,739 And to this day volcanoes continue to shape the land. 131 00:10:20,153 --> 00:10:24,956 Without volcanoes, there would be no iceland. 132 00:10:32,424 --> 00:10:36,426 Iceland lies in the middle of the north atlantic ocean, about 133 00:10:36,503 --> 00:10:41,681 200 miles east of greenland on the edge of the arctic circle. 134 00:10:44,928 --> 00:10:48,647 Mighty waterfalls carve the savage landscape. 135 00:10:51,943 --> 00:10:56,237 Stunning cliffs define 3,000 miles of jagged coastline. 136 00:10:59,785 --> 00:11:02,369 At the ragged edge of the world, 137 00:11:02,445 --> 00:11:05,497 It is an island of extremes. 138 00:11:15,041 --> 00:11:18,718 Just one-fifth of this hostile, alien land 139 00:11:18,795 --> 00:11:24,215 Is inhabited by humans. 140 00:11:24,226 --> 00:11:27,894 Iceland is roughly the size of cuba, but contains 141 00:11:27,971 --> 00:11:32,899 Less than one-thirtieth of its population. 142 00:11:32,976 --> 00:11:39,239 It is one of the least-inhabited countries on earth. 143 00:11:39,315 --> 00:11:43,901 Despite the geothermal heat boiling under its crust, 144 00:11:43,912 --> 00:11:46,154 11 per cent of iceland's landmass 145 00:11:46,164 --> 00:11:48,415 Is covered by glaciers, 146 00:11:48,491 --> 00:11:51,826 Including the world's third-largest ice-cap: 147 00:11:51,837 --> 00:11:55,839 Vatnajokull. 148 00:11:55,915 --> 00:12:00,927 Rising above this icy world, iceland's 30 active volcanoes 149 00:12:01,004 --> 00:12:06,257 Generate one-third of the world's terrestrial lava. 150 00:12:06,268 --> 00:12:11,596 This frozen island is on fire. 151 00:12:11,606 --> 00:12:15,775 But what makes this rugged island, just 300 miles wide, 152 00:12:15,986 --> 00:12:22,273 Such a frightening volcanic force? 153 00:12:22,284 --> 00:12:29,197 What inflames this lonely outpost in the north atlantic? 154 00:12:29,207 --> 00:12:32,834 Geological clues are everywhere. 155 00:12:49,060 --> 00:12:52,553 At thingvellir plain in the south-west of iceland, 156 00:12:52,564 --> 00:12:56,641 A giant gash in the valley floor bears witness 157 00:12:56,651 --> 00:13:00,361 To the intense violence that has shaped the island. 158 00:13:03,950 --> 00:13:05,566 Saemundsen: We are standing within a fault 159 00:13:05,577 --> 00:13:10,538 That has been slowly moving apart in the last 9,000 years. 160 00:13:14,327 --> 00:13:17,495 This is a basaltic lava wall that's been torn apart 161 00:13:17,506 --> 00:13:19,080 From this one. 162 00:13:19,090 --> 00:13:24,093 Some 9,000 years ago they were together and as all the years 163 00:13:24,170 --> 00:13:28,681 Have passed they are slowly moving apart. 164 00:13:28,758 --> 00:13:30,016 You think about the powers 165 00:13:30,093 --> 00:13:33,427 That are needed to tear apart this landscape. 166 00:13:33,438 --> 00:13:36,439 That is mind-boggling sometimes. 167 00:13:40,028 --> 00:13:46,115 Narrator: Iceland is tearing apart at the rate of one inch per year, 168 00:13:46,192 --> 00:13:52,029 About the same speed that fingernails grow. 169 00:13:52,040 --> 00:13:55,875 The island is getting larger. 170 00:13:56,002 --> 00:14:01,548 Here, in this cracked valley, something powerful is at work. 171 00:14:01,624 --> 00:14:04,884 A geological juggernaut that runs right through 172 00:14:05,011 --> 00:14:09,556 The middle of the island: The mid-atlantic ridge. 173 00:14:13,469 --> 00:14:16,971 It's one of earth's longest mountain chains, 174 00:14:16,982 --> 00:14:21,901 Yet it's almost entirely hidden beneath the sea. 175 00:14:22,070 --> 00:14:24,487 The mid-atlantic ridge starts roughly midway 176 00:14:24,564 --> 00:14:26,906 Between south america and africa 177 00:14:26,983 --> 00:14:30,985 In the frigid south atlantic ocean and extends north 178 00:14:30,996 --> 00:14:37,158 For about 10,000 miles to the arctic ocean. 179 00:14:37,168 --> 00:14:40,578 In the north atlantic, it's the boundary between north america 180 00:14:40,589 --> 00:14:46,301 And eurasia: Two plates of land that were once joined together. 181 00:14:49,005 --> 00:14:52,006 Driven by forces deep within the earth, 182 00:14:52,017 --> 00:14:56,177 The continental plates tear apart moving east and west, 183 00:14:56,187 --> 00:15:01,015 Leaving a giant gash in the earth's crust. 184 00:15:01,026 --> 00:15:06,779 Magma surges up and spews out onto the ocean floor. 185 00:15:06,856 --> 00:15:11,192 As it cools, it forms new oceanic crust, 186 00:15:11,202 --> 00:15:17,957 Forcing the older crust away inch by inch. 187 00:15:18,084 --> 00:15:21,628 About 20 million years ago, lava erupting from the 188 00:15:21,704 --> 00:15:24,964 Mid-atlantic ridge emerged above the waves 189 00:15:25,133 --> 00:15:31,545 To create a new landform: Iceland. 190 00:15:31,556 --> 00:15:36,392 This otherworldly landscape is essentially the sea floor 191 00:15:36,469 --> 00:15:41,230 Pushed high above the ocean surface. 192 00:15:41,307 --> 00:15:45,652 Iceland straddles the dividing line between the two plates. 193 00:15:45,728 --> 00:15:51,232 It too is tearing apart. 194 00:15:51,242 --> 00:15:53,409 The rift that splits iceland in two 195 00:15:53,486 --> 00:15:59,573 Runs from the southwest to the northeast. 196 00:15:59,584 --> 00:16:02,001 On the left, the western part of the island 197 00:16:02,128 --> 00:16:06,005 Belongs to the north american plate, 198 00:16:06,082 --> 00:16:09,384 The eastern part to the eurasian plate. 199 00:16:13,756 --> 00:16:16,432 Saemundsen: Here, you have part of the north american continent 200 00:16:16,509 --> 00:16:20,853 That is drifting slowly to the west and then, further out here, 201 00:16:20,930 --> 00:16:25,608 We have the eurasian plate that is slowly drifting to the east. 202 00:16:29,239 --> 00:16:30,363 What you're looking into here 203 00:16:30,440 --> 00:16:33,866 Is basically the side of north america. 204 00:16:33,943 --> 00:16:35,702 It's probably one of the few places in the world 205 00:16:35,778 --> 00:16:40,698 Where you can look into the side of it. 206 00:16:40,709 --> 00:16:44,285 Narrator: Iceland will continue to grow, east to west, 207 00:16:44,295 --> 00:16:47,005 As the plates spread apart. 208 00:16:51,803 --> 00:16:55,463 On the blackened lava plains of the reykjanes peninsula, 209 00:16:55,473 --> 00:17:00,217 A 50-foot steel footbridge spans a broad fissure. 210 00:17:00,228 --> 00:17:05,481 The bridge, named for the icelandic explorer leif erikson, 211 00:17:05,558 --> 00:17:08,484 Allows visitors to symbolically walk the distance 212 00:17:08,561 --> 00:17:11,529 From eurasia to north america. 213 00:17:16,569 --> 00:17:21,080 For more adventurous explorers there are places in iceland 214 00:17:21,207 --> 00:17:24,825 Where the edges of the north american and eurasian continents 215 00:17:24,836 --> 00:17:27,712 Are within touching distance. 216 00:17:32,844 --> 00:17:37,922 The silfra tectonic fissure, on the rim of thingvellir lake, 217 00:17:37,932 --> 00:17:42,185 Provides a unique opportunity for underwater explorers 218 00:17:42,261 --> 00:17:47,681 To float between continents. 219 00:17:47,692 --> 00:17:51,685 In the narrowest reaches of the fissure, divers can touch 220 00:17:51,696 --> 00:17:55,156 Both north america and eurasia at once. 221 00:18:06,628 --> 00:18:10,371 Vita: This is the only place in the world where you can stand 222 00:18:10,381 --> 00:18:14,208 In the north atlantic dorsal rift. 223 00:18:14,219 --> 00:18:16,627 It's a ridge that goes from north to south through the whole 224 00:18:16,638 --> 00:18:23,142 Atlantic ocean and it only rises to the surface here in iceland. 225 00:18:23,219 --> 00:18:25,970 So actually it's quite unique because we are in between 226 00:18:25,980 --> 00:18:28,973 Two tectonic plates and we are standing. 227 00:18:28,983 --> 00:18:31,809 Normally, you have to be 4,000 meters depth in the ocean 228 00:18:31,820 --> 00:18:34,979 To stand in a place like this. 229 00:18:34,989 --> 00:18:38,908 Narrator: The water in silfra is among the clearest and cleanest 230 00:18:38,985 --> 00:18:43,162 In the world, the result of a remarkable 231 00:18:43,373 --> 00:18:46,749 Natural filtration process. 232 00:18:46,826 --> 00:18:50,169 Water trickles underground from a melting glacier 233 00:18:50,380 --> 00:18:54,340 30 miles north of the dive site. 234 00:18:54,417 --> 00:18:57,176 The glacial melt water percolates down through 235 00:18:57,253 --> 00:19:02,006 Porous lava rock before it wells up from underground springs 236 00:19:02,016 --> 00:19:06,185 Directly into silfra, a process that can take 237 00:19:06,396 --> 00:19:11,274 Between 30 and 50 years. 238 00:19:11,350 --> 00:19:14,193 This naturally filtered, crystal-clear water 239 00:19:14,404 --> 00:19:18,281 Has made silfra one of the world's top dive sites. 240 00:19:18,357 --> 00:19:22,693 But with temperatures that hover at 35 degrees year-round, 241 00:19:22,704 --> 00:19:25,621 It's not for the faint-of-heart. 242 00:19:31,963 --> 00:19:36,382 Vita: Diving in silfra is not easy at all. 243 00:19:36,459 --> 00:19:39,719 It's quite cold and it's quite demanding. 244 00:19:39,795 --> 00:19:45,466 Your body needs to burn a lot of energy to stay warm. 245 00:19:45,476 --> 00:19:48,227 More than one hour is not recommended, not even with 246 00:19:48,304 --> 00:19:52,231 The best of the suits, because you lose your heat very fast. 247 00:19:52,308 --> 00:19:56,235 It's very cold and it can be dangerous. 248 00:19:56,404 --> 00:20:00,239 Besides the cold and the dry suit, it's a fissure which is 249 00:20:00,450 --> 00:20:04,243 Very narrow, so it can be a little bit claustrophobic. 250 00:20:04,370 --> 00:20:07,321 You need a lot of gear, a lot of weight, 251 00:20:07,332 --> 00:20:11,584 So it's not the easiest dive in the world, to be honest. 252 00:20:11,661 --> 00:20:13,836 But once you put your face in the water and you get to see 253 00:20:13,913 --> 00:20:17,581 How clear the water is, everything is worth it. 254 00:20:17,592 --> 00:20:20,009 Everything makes sense. 255 00:20:31,681 --> 00:20:33,940 Narrator: At grjotagja, in the north of iceland, 256 00:20:34,016 --> 00:20:39,237 Another clear sign that the earth is being ripped apart. 257 00:20:42,867 --> 00:20:45,284 But deep inside this dark abyss 258 00:20:45,495 --> 00:20:49,580 Is a surprisingly inviting natural wonder. 259 00:20:53,044 --> 00:20:55,795 It's a world away from the frigid waters 260 00:20:55,871 --> 00:20:58,297 Of the silfra fissure. 261 00:21:07,133 --> 00:21:09,308 An alluring hot spring beckons, 262 00:21:09,385 --> 00:21:15,064 Heated by magma deep within the earth. 263 00:21:15,141 --> 00:21:17,141 Water in this shimmering cave pool 264 00:21:17,151 --> 00:21:22,822 Simmers at more than 120 degrees, too hot for bathing. 265 00:21:25,401 --> 00:21:28,819 Hot springs like this are pivotal to understanding 266 00:21:28,830 --> 00:21:31,539 How the island formed. 267 00:21:36,746 --> 00:21:39,171 Iceland is an on-shore continuation 268 00:21:39,248 --> 00:21:43,584 Of the mid-atlantic ridge, one of the few places 269 00:21:43,594 --> 00:21:50,016 Where this drowned mountain chain reaches the surface. 270 00:21:50,092 --> 00:21:53,352 But what caused it, and the island as a whole, 271 00:21:53,479 --> 00:21:57,690 To rise more than a mile above the ocean floor? 272 00:22:05,024 --> 00:22:08,692 The answer lies with a second geological force 273 00:22:08,703 --> 00:22:13,530 As indestructible as the rift that tears iceland in two: 274 00:22:13,541 --> 00:22:19,128 Its inner fires, fueled by a hot spot deep within the earth. 275 00:22:21,549 --> 00:22:24,216 There are more active volcanoes in iceland 276 00:22:24,293 --> 00:22:29,388 Than anywhere else on earth. 277 00:22:29,599 --> 00:22:31,724 On average, the country experiences 278 00:22:31,801 --> 00:22:36,812 A major eruption every five years. 279 00:22:36,889 --> 00:22:40,974 The most forbidding of iceland's volcanoes, hekla, 280 00:22:40,985 --> 00:22:46,947 Towers 5000 feet over a landscape lain bare by lava. 281 00:22:50,536 --> 00:22:53,237 Steffensen: Hekla is special in a way because -- 282 00:22:53,247 --> 00:22:55,823 Because of the frequency of the eruptions there. 283 00:22:55,833 --> 00:23:01,545 And since the settlement, we've had about 20 eruptions there. 284 00:23:03,582 --> 00:23:06,008 Some of the eruptions have been absolutely enormous, 285 00:23:06,085 --> 00:23:10,003 Creating just catastrophic situations around it, 286 00:23:10,014 --> 00:23:15,601 Killing people and burying farms in ash and pumice. 287 00:23:15,678 --> 00:23:19,263 So, for many, many years it was actually a place 288 00:23:19,273 --> 00:23:20,689 That people feared. 289 00:23:20,766 --> 00:23:22,942 It was considered being the gateway to hell 290 00:23:23,018 --> 00:23:28,531 And no one wanted to go close to it. 291 00:23:28,607 --> 00:23:34,703 Narrator: Hekla lies alongside the mid-atlantic ridge. 292 00:23:34,780 --> 00:23:38,040 A massive fissure similar to the fractures found in 293 00:23:38,117 --> 00:23:42,837 Thingvellir valley tears through the centre of the volcano. 294 00:23:47,802 --> 00:23:50,553 When hekla erupted in the year 2000, 295 00:23:50,629 --> 00:23:54,131 The earth unzipped along the fissure, unleashing 296 00:23:54,142 --> 00:23:59,553 A flow of lava more than four miles long. 297 00:23:59,564 --> 00:24:02,306 The lava formed mountains, 298 00:24:02,316 --> 00:24:06,444 Each of which has its origins deep underground. 299 00:24:14,403 --> 00:24:19,498 Iceland sits on what's known as a hot spot: A plume of scorching 300 00:24:19,667 --> 00:24:26,255 Molten rock believed to be 100 miles wide and 400 miles deep. 301 00:24:34,932 --> 00:24:37,266 Lava erupting from the hot spot cooled 302 00:24:37,343 --> 00:24:41,979 And accumulated to build the island above the sea. 303 00:24:50,281 --> 00:24:56,026 Over 20 million years, iceland has grown from a tiny seamount 304 00:24:56,037 --> 00:25:02,032 Into the world's largest volcanic island. 305 00:25:02,043 --> 00:25:05,377 Thordarson: We have an unusual amount of volcanic activity in iceland. 306 00:25:05,454 --> 00:25:09,048 So the volcanoes are producing more magma, molten rock, 307 00:25:09,124 --> 00:25:11,967 Than in most other places. 308 00:25:12,044 --> 00:25:15,554 Therefore, it's piling up more material. 309 00:25:15,681 --> 00:25:18,382 And that all helps keep iceland above sea level. 310 00:25:18,392 --> 00:25:19,725 If we wouldn't have this, 311 00:25:19,802 --> 00:25:22,937 Iceland would be 2000 meters under the sea. 312 00:25:30,321 --> 00:25:36,984 Narrator: The volcanic process that built iceland continues today. 313 00:25:36,994 --> 00:25:40,996 As volcanoes erupt, and magma from deep within the earth 314 00:25:41,073 --> 00:25:45,584 Rises to the surface to create new land, 315 00:25:45,753 --> 00:25:50,256 Iceland is forever being reborn. 316 00:25:54,929 --> 00:25:57,921 On the snaefellsnes peninsula, 317 00:25:57,932 --> 00:26:01,675 The most westerly point of iceland, a volcanic cave 318 00:26:01,686 --> 00:26:07,314 Traces the path of a lava flow more than 100 feet underground. 319 00:26:09,852 --> 00:26:12,611 Lava-tube caves like this form 320 00:26:12,688 --> 00:26:18,284 When the surface of flowing lava cools. 321 00:26:18,360 --> 00:26:22,362 Molten rock solidifies along the sides of the lava river 322 00:26:22,373 --> 00:26:26,041 And a hard crust forms on top. 323 00:26:35,052 --> 00:26:37,970 Hot lava flows through this pipeline, 324 00:26:38,047 --> 00:26:41,015 Streaming up from deep in the earth. 325 00:26:48,899 --> 00:26:53,143 When the eruption stops, the lava ceases to flow, 326 00:26:53,154 --> 00:26:56,196 Leaving behind a hollow tube. 327 00:27:05,499 --> 00:27:09,168 Different colors on the walls of the cave record the history 328 00:27:09,244 --> 00:27:14,748 Of eruptions: Layers of lava piled one on top of the other 329 00:27:14,759 --> 00:27:18,677 Over thousands of years. 330 00:27:18,888 --> 00:27:20,921 Thordarson: The geology is alive here. 331 00:27:20,931 --> 00:27:23,682 We have volcanic eruptions. You can watch the lava moving. 332 00:27:23,759 --> 00:27:30,514 You can watch the plumes come up, and so it seems to be alive. 333 00:27:30,524 --> 00:27:33,692 Narrator: Nowhere is this living breathing earth more evident 334 00:27:33,769 --> 00:27:36,937 Than here, in the southern lowlands 335 00:27:36,947 --> 00:27:41,200 Where the earth's inner fires boil over. 336 00:28:20,232 --> 00:28:25,569 Strokkur, a powerful fountain cast from deep within the earth, 337 00:28:25,579 --> 00:28:31,575 Soars into the icelandic twilight. 338 00:28:31,585 --> 00:28:35,754 In this pool, geysir, the first natural geyser known to 339 00:28:35,965 --> 00:28:41,251 Europeans, now lies dormant on this geothermal plain. 340 00:28:41,262 --> 00:28:45,922 In icelandic, the word 'geysa' means 'to gush'. 341 00:28:45,933 --> 00:28:51,729 It is from this place that the world's geysers take their name. 342 00:28:58,446 --> 00:29:00,612 Strokkur is far more active, 343 00:29:00,689 --> 00:29:06,285 Erupting every eight to 10 minutes. 344 00:29:06,361 --> 00:29:09,037 The geyser explodes from vents in the earth's surface 345 00:29:09,114 --> 00:29:13,033 That run deep into the crust. 346 00:29:13,043 --> 00:29:17,204 These hydrothermal eruptions are the result of cold rainwater 347 00:29:17,214 --> 00:29:23,552 Seeping down through fractured bedrock onto hot volcanic rock. 348 00:29:23,629 --> 00:29:26,305 The water trapped underground is super-heated 349 00:29:26,381 --> 00:29:29,549 And converts to vapor that would normally fill 350 00:29:29,560 --> 00:29:35,472 1,600 times more space than the original volume of water. 351 00:29:35,483 --> 00:29:39,568 But it remains trapped under intense pressure. 352 00:29:39,645 --> 00:29:43,146 The steam explodes from this subterranean furnace, 353 00:29:43,157 --> 00:29:46,566 Passing through liquid groundwater near the surface, 354 00:29:46,577 --> 00:29:50,454 Jetting more than 60 feet into the air. 355 00:29:59,673 --> 00:30:02,090 On the flank of an active volcano, 356 00:30:02,167 --> 00:30:07,095 Steaming fumaroles hiss into the cold atlantic sky. 357 00:30:12,937 --> 00:30:15,679 Fumaroles are vents in the earth's crust, 358 00:30:15,689 --> 00:30:20,859 Similar to geysers, yet they only emit steam, not water, 359 00:30:20,986 --> 00:30:25,689 And volcanic gases such as hydrogen sulfide. 360 00:30:25,699 --> 00:30:30,277 Superheated to temperatures as high as 280 degrees, 361 00:30:30,287 --> 00:30:33,530 The cool groundwater deep within this system 362 00:30:33,541 --> 00:30:37,251 Has entirely transformed to vapor. 363 00:30:52,977 --> 00:30:56,144 Hydrogen sulfide rising through surface water 364 00:30:56,221 --> 00:31:00,640 Produces sulfuric acid, strong enough to dissolve 365 00:31:00,651 --> 00:31:06,113 The surrounding rock and soil to create boiling mudpots. 366 00:31:21,163 --> 00:31:24,339 Sulfurous steam clouds and colorful minerals 367 00:31:24,416 --> 00:31:27,509 In the ground paint the geothermal field 368 00:31:27,586 --> 00:31:33,682 With an almost extraterrestrial beauty. 369 00:31:33,759 --> 00:31:39,938 But there's real danger here. 370 00:31:40,065 --> 00:31:43,191 Visitors who venture too close risk breaking through 371 00:31:43,268 --> 00:31:47,354 The fragile mineral crust and scalding themselves 372 00:31:47,364 --> 00:31:50,198 In the boiling pools. 373 00:31:55,530 --> 00:31:57,197 Sulfur is one of the elements 374 00:31:57,207 --> 00:32:01,960 Often found deposited at hot springs. 375 00:32:02,087 --> 00:32:03,378 In previous centuries, 376 00:32:03,455 --> 00:32:08,091 The sulfur was mined in iceland to make gunpowder. 377 00:32:14,549 --> 00:32:17,392 Today, icelanders harness natural resources 378 00:32:17,469 --> 00:32:21,313 For their own needs: Boring into the ground for the steam 379 00:32:21,390 --> 00:32:26,109 That spins turbines to generate geothermal power. 380 00:32:28,730 --> 00:32:31,398 Steffensen: The geothermal power plants that we have 381 00:32:31,408 --> 00:32:35,819 Produce about 30 percent of the energy that we have in iceland. 382 00:32:35,829 --> 00:32:38,747 Of course it's brilliant to be able to produce energy 383 00:32:38,824 --> 00:32:41,825 In a green way like that. 384 00:32:41,835 --> 00:32:44,002 There's no, or hardly any pollution and it's a very 385 00:32:44,213 --> 00:32:47,664 Green way to keep life in iceland going. 386 00:32:47,675 --> 00:32:50,250 There's always the downside that in order to create those 387 00:32:50,260 --> 00:32:52,844 Power plants you have to build structures and you have to 388 00:32:52,921 --> 00:32:55,672 Drill and you have to have pipes on the surface. 389 00:32:55,683 --> 00:33:01,520 So there are mixed emotions when it comes to these power plants. 390 00:33:16,453 --> 00:33:21,039 Narrator: Iceland's two mighty geological powers, 391 00:33:21,208 --> 00:33:28,046 The mid-atlantic ridge and the deep icelandic hotspot, 392 00:33:28,123 --> 00:33:32,208 Create a dangerous volcanic force capable of generating 393 00:33:32,219 --> 00:33:37,014 More land-based lava than any place else on earth. 394 00:33:42,396 --> 00:33:44,896 Saemundsen: We are on the mid-atlantic ridge, but it's above water 395 00:33:44,973 --> 00:33:48,066 Because the hot mantle plume is pushing it above the sea level. 396 00:33:48,277 --> 00:33:51,069 So, all of iceland in a way, when you drive around iceland, 397 00:33:51,146 --> 00:33:53,321 You see mountains and hills. 398 00:33:53,398 --> 00:33:54,906 They're all the result of some volcanic activity 399 00:33:54,983 --> 00:33:56,733 At some point in time. 400 00:33:56,744 --> 00:33:59,077 So, iceland is one big volcano. 401 00:34:07,496 --> 00:34:11,339 Narrator: South-central iceland is the site of the greatest lava flood 402 00:34:11,416 --> 00:34:16,094 Of the last 1,000 years. 403 00:34:16,221 --> 00:34:19,339 Cutting through the lava field is eldgja, 404 00:34:19,349 --> 00:34:23,852 The largest volcanic canyon on the planet. 405 00:34:23,929 --> 00:34:25,845 Five miles long. 406 00:34:25,856 --> 00:34:28,431 1300 feet wide. 407 00:34:28,442 --> 00:34:31,068 500 feet deep. 408 00:34:37,284 --> 00:34:39,776 The canyon's flat bottom confirms 409 00:34:39,787 --> 00:34:43,780 That it isn't a valley carved by water. 410 00:34:43,791 --> 00:34:49,127 It was formed by a more fiery power. 411 00:34:49,296 --> 00:34:54,874 In icelandic, eldgja means 'canyon of fire'. 412 00:34:54,885 --> 00:35:00,806 It's part of an eruptive fissure that stretches for 45 miles. 413 00:35:00,882 --> 00:35:04,142 The canyon appeared in 934 ad 414 00:35:04,219 --> 00:35:07,637 During an extremely violent eruption. 415 00:35:07,648 --> 00:35:11,558 Far more powerful than the laki lava flow in 1783 416 00:35:11,568 --> 00:35:17,564 That killed 20 per cent of iceland's population. 417 00:35:17,574 --> 00:35:21,409 But this lava didn't erupt from a circular crater. 418 00:35:21,486 --> 00:35:26,322 Instead, fountains of basalt lava spewed from a thin fissure 419 00:35:26,333 --> 00:35:31,494 In the earth's crust nearly 20 miles long, 420 00:35:31,505 --> 00:35:34,747 An unusual but natural phenomenon found along 421 00:35:34,758 --> 00:35:39,136 The entire underwater stretch of the mid-atlantic ridge. 422 00:35:43,925 --> 00:35:48,186 The eruption likely lasted for years. 423 00:35:48,263 --> 00:35:51,189 More than three cubic miles of basalt lava 424 00:35:51,266 --> 00:35:55,777 Oozed from the fissure, spreading across a lava field 425 00:35:55,854 --> 00:36:00,198 That covers more than 250 square miles. 426 00:36:00,275 --> 00:36:04,694 The largest lava field the earth has known since the ice age. 427 00:36:07,532 --> 00:36:11,701 In iceland, large eruptions like laki and eldgja 428 00:36:11,712 --> 00:36:15,455 Occur every few hundred years. 429 00:36:15,465 --> 00:36:18,625 The chances of another catastrophic volcanic event 430 00:36:18,635 --> 00:36:21,553 Are highly likely. 431 00:36:28,637 --> 00:36:32,230 Icelanders still live under constant threat of eruptions, 432 00:36:32,441 --> 00:36:36,234 Which occur on average every five years. 433 00:36:36,311 --> 00:36:40,897 In the shadow of volcanoes, people have learned to adapt. 434 00:36:40,908 --> 00:36:43,483 Most live on the edge of the island, 435 00:36:43,493 --> 00:36:49,489 In coastal towns and cities. 436 00:36:49,499 --> 00:36:53,585 Rural areas are largely uninhabited 437 00:36:53,662 --> 00:36:57,214 Except for those where the land can be farmed. 438 00:37:05,432 --> 00:37:08,934 Steffensen: The volcanoes are not close to cities or towns. 439 00:37:09,010 --> 00:37:11,770 So the people living closest to them are usually farmers 440 00:37:11,846 --> 00:37:13,355 And they and their families 441 00:37:13,431 --> 00:37:15,273 Have been living there for generations. 442 00:37:15,350 --> 00:37:16,942 They know that these things are there. 443 00:37:17,018 --> 00:37:21,488 They know that they might erupt every now and then. 444 00:37:24,117 --> 00:37:27,118 Narrator: Hekla, one of iceland's most-active volcanoes, 445 00:37:27,195 --> 00:37:33,533 Erupts almost without warning. 446 00:37:33,543 --> 00:37:37,295 Seismic activity at hekla was detected less than 90 minutes 447 00:37:37,422 --> 00:37:41,925 Prior to four eruptions in the late 20th century. 448 00:37:46,515 --> 00:37:49,140 Geologists monitor unrest in hekla, 449 00:37:49,217 --> 00:37:55,313 Looking for telltale signs of a possible eruption. 450 00:37:55,524 --> 00:37:56,806 Thordarson: We do monitor them and they monitor 451 00:37:56,817 --> 00:37:58,891 The icelandic volcanoes very closely. 452 00:37:58,902 --> 00:38:02,821 Basically, it measures the deformation of the ground. 453 00:38:02,897 --> 00:38:05,323 As magma comes in, it will lift the ground up 454 00:38:05,400 --> 00:38:09,485 And change its sort of orientation and deform it. 455 00:38:09,496 --> 00:38:12,739 And so that's one way of detecting something happening 456 00:38:12,749 --> 00:38:17,836 Underneath the volcano. 457 00:38:17,912 --> 00:38:19,671 Steffensen: These volcanoes that are close to where people live 458 00:38:19,748 --> 00:38:22,173 Are monitored quite carefully so that scientists 459 00:38:22,250 --> 00:38:25,093 And the authorities can predict if something is going to happen 460 00:38:25,170 --> 00:38:27,587 And they can issue warnings. 461 00:38:27,597 --> 00:38:29,922 But usually when they do so, if they do issue warnings, 462 00:38:29,933 --> 00:38:33,092 The farmers, they already know, because they can 463 00:38:33,103 --> 00:38:35,595 Judge by the behavior of their animals. 464 00:38:35,605 --> 00:38:39,024 They seem to sense this way before we do. 465 00:38:44,698 --> 00:38:48,616 Narrator: In the southern highlands, the mountains of landmannalaugar 466 00:38:48,693 --> 00:38:51,944 Form one of iceland's most striking and beautiful 467 00:38:51,955 --> 00:38:54,331 Natural wonders. 468 00:39:00,288 --> 00:39:04,457 The mountains were built from rhyolite, a lava rich in silica, 469 00:39:04,468 --> 00:39:09,387 Which cools slowly after it erupts. 470 00:39:09,556 --> 00:39:13,132 Rhyolite has the same mineral composition as granite, 471 00:39:13,143 --> 00:39:16,978 Which cools deep within the earth. 472 00:39:17,055 --> 00:39:21,974 Iron oxide in the rock creates these multicolored peaks. 473 00:39:24,571 --> 00:39:29,574 Landmannalaugar rests on the edge of a rambling lava field 474 00:39:29,651 --> 00:39:34,412 Formed by an eruption in the late 15th century. 475 00:39:34,489 --> 00:39:37,916 It too glitters with rhyolite. 476 00:39:43,090 --> 00:39:46,165 The caramel-colored mountains that surround the lava field 477 00:39:46,176 --> 00:39:49,761 Are the starting point of an epic four-day trek 478 00:39:49,838 --> 00:39:51,429 Through the highlands. 479 00:39:51,640 --> 00:39:55,517 It's considered one of the world's finest hikes. 480 00:40:03,652 --> 00:40:05,026 J.R.R. Tolkien, 481 00:40:05,103 --> 00:40:07,779 Author of the hobbit and the lord of the rings, 482 00:40:07,856 --> 00:40:11,274 Was fascinated by iceland. 483 00:40:11,284 --> 00:40:13,860 These southern highlands are believed to have inspired 484 00:40:13,870 --> 00:40:16,538 The landscape of middle earth. 485 00:40:22,129 --> 00:40:25,705 In the northeast of iceland, the twisted rock towers 486 00:40:25,715 --> 00:40:31,469 Of dimmuborgir rise like ruined citadels over a field of lava. 487 00:40:37,218 --> 00:40:39,886 This remarkable, sinister domain, 488 00:40:39,896 --> 00:40:44,140 Also reminiscent of tolkien, was sculpted by a volcanic eruption 489 00:40:44,151 --> 00:40:47,444 More than 2,000 years ago. 490 00:40:53,702 --> 00:40:56,986 Lava flowing from a large explosion to the east 491 00:40:56,997 --> 00:41:01,958 Pooled over a small lake, trapping the water underneath. 492 00:41:05,163 --> 00:41:07,589 The lake boiled as if on fire, 493 00:41:07,665 --> 00:41:11,167 Sending columns of steam skyward. 494 00:41:11,178 --> 00:41:15,763 Molten rock wrapped around the vapor plumes. 495 00:41:15,840 --> 00:41:19,517 When the lava cooled and its top crust collapsed, 496 00:41:19,686 --> 00:41:23,897 Only these hollow pillars of solidified lava remained. 497 00:41:29,187 --> 00:41:35,024 These columns of mangled rock rise as high as 100 feet. 498 00:41:37,862 --> 00:41:41,789 Church-like structures also formed around bubbles of vapor 499 00:41:41,866 --> 00:41:44,709 Are large enough to harbor humans. 500 00:41:49,716 --> 00:41:54,302 In icelandic, dimmuborgir means 'dark castles'. 501 00:41:54,379 --> 00:41:56,963 The site was long believed to be the meeting point 502 00:41:56,973 --> 00:41:59,891 Between earth and the netherworld. 503 00:42:09,694 --> 00:42:13,071 According to nordic christian lore, satan landed here 504 00:42:13,147 --> 00:42:15,573 After being cast from the heavens 505 00:42:15,784 --> 00:42:19,577 And created these bulging 'catacombs of hell'. 506 00:42:24,334 --> 00:42:29,128 But amid the tangled darkness there is simple beauty. 507 00:42:31,758 --> 00:42:34,259 Dimmuborgir blooms with thickets, 508 00:42:34,335 --> 00:42:40,682 Alpine plants and moss. 509 00:42:40,758 --> 00:42:44,677 Each time the volcano wields its destructive power, 510 00:42:44,688 --> 00:42:49,232 The ground heals and new life springs again. 511 00:42:59,944 --> 00:43:02,862 Iceland's volcanoes blast. 512 00:43:02,872 --> 00:43:04,372 Burn. 513 00:43:04,449 --> 00:43:06,115 And melt. 514 00:43:06,126 --> 00:43:11,796 Bringing to bear unthinkable chaos. 515 00:43:11,873 --> 00:43:14,632 But occasionally, lava spills from the earth 516 00:43:14,843 --> 00:43:19,462 To create formations so uniform, so ordered, 517 00:43:19,472 --> 00:43:22,599 That they appear man-made. 518 00:43:32,819 --> 00:43:36,395 At reynisfjara, iceland's southernmost beach, 519 00:43:36,406 --> 00:43:39,824 Thousands of basalt columns stand tall, 520 00:43:39,901 --> 00:43:43,077 300 feet above the slate-grey sand. 521 00:43:50,253 --> 00:43:54,005 The question that has puzzled people for centuries: 522 00:43:54,082 --> 00:43:58,968 How did a volcano produce such precise geometric structures? 523 00:44:06,186 --> 00:44:12,440 The answer comes down to physics. 524 00:44:12,517 --> 00:44:14,433 Thordarson: Columns form because 525 00:44:14,444 --> 00:44:18,938 When the liquid lava cools down, it contracts. 526 00:44:18,948 --> 00:44:22,700 And so, the solid lava is-- has a volume that's roughly 527 00:44:22,911 --> 00:44:27,955 10 percent less than the liquid lava and so it accommodates 528 00:44:28,032 --> 00:44:30,449 For this volume change by forming these joints 529 00:44:30,460 --> 00:44:36,205 That are demarcated as columnar joints. 530 00:44:36,216 --> 00:44:37,957 So they form the columns because of this contraction, 531 00:44:37,967 --> 00:44:41,469 And they're usually hexagonal in form. 532 00:44:43,381 --> 00:44:48,559 Narrator: These hexagonal basalt columns appear throughout the world: 533 00:44:48,636 --> 00:44:52,730 In washington and wyoming in the united states, 534 00:44:52,899 --> 00:44:56,726 And at the giant's causeway in northern ireland. 535 00:44:59,572 --> 00:45:03,149 The process that forms columnar basalt 536 00:45:03,159 --> 00:45:07,245 Is part of the ongoing creation of iceland, 537 00:45:08,331 --> 00:45:14,210 A powerful island forever renewing itself through volcanic unrest. 538 00:45:19,834 --> 00:45:23,845 The geological violence that built iceland 539 00:45:23,921 --> 00:45:29,592 Is also tearing it apart. 540 00:45:29,602 --> 00:45:32,770 The earth rips open. 541 00:45:32,981 --> 00:45:36,849 The ground hisses. 542 00:45:36,860 --> 00:45:39,736 And volcanoes explode. 543 00:45:44,275 --> 00:45:47,026 And the power that burns deep within our planet 544 00:45:47,036 --> 00:45:51,372 Continues its unrelenting drive to escape. 545 00:45:54,961 --> 00:46:09,632 ♪♪♪ 546 00:46:09,642 --> 00:46:19,817 ♪♪♪ 547 00:46:19,903 --> 00:46:24,647 ♪♪♪ 548 00:46:24,657 --> 00:46:35,792 ♪♪♪ 50513

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