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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:07,013 --> 00:00:08,702 (gasping) (wind howling) 2 00:00:08,702 --> 00:00:11,535 (tentative music) 3 00:00:22,780 --> 00:00:26,030 - [Adrian] On these big mountains we're taking big risks. 4 00:00:26,030 --> 00:00:27,810 We need to be aware of those risks 5 00:00:27,810 --> 00:00:30,600 and mitigate those risks to the greatest level we can, 6 00:00:30,600 --> 00:00:33,783 and we have to know when it's time to go home. 7 00:00:36,182 --> 00:00:41,099 (tense music) (wind howls) 8 00:00:47,750 --> 00:00:51,020 I know if I disappear on a mountain, I'm just gone. 9 00:00:51,020 --> 00:00:53,280 It's those people at home, it's my family, 10 00:00:53,280 --> 00:00:55,400 that it's gonna affect their lives 11 00:00:55,400 --> 00:00:57,920 for years and years to come. 12 00:00:57,920 --> 00:01:02,030 And while that might happen, inevitably, 13 00:01:02,030 --> 00:01:05,860 because of something I didn't plan, and I accept that risk, 14 00:01:05,860 --> 00:01:07,680 I just never want it to be 15 00:01:07,680 --> 00:01:12,680 because I knew it and I pushed on anyway. 16 00:01:12,748 --> 00:01:15,165 (soft music) 17 00:01:28,113 --> 00:01:33,113 - [Narrator] 8,000, for most people, a perfectly innocent, 18 00:01:33,180 --> 00:01:35,080 somewhat meaningless number. 19 00:01:35,080 --> 00:01:36,350 But, for mountain climbers, 20 00:01:36,350 --> 00:01:39,293 it can be the number that defines their lives forever. 21 00:01:41,340 --> 00:01:43,240 There are only 14 mountain peaks on Earth 22 00:01:43,240 --> 00:01:45,563 that stand taller than 8000 meters. 23 00:01:46,820 --> 00:01:48,410 All of them lie in the Himalayan 24 00:01:48,410 --> 00:01:50,883 and Karakoram ranges in central Asia. 25 00:01:53,490 --> 00:01:55,350 They're the only mountains on the planet 26 00:01:55,350 --> 00:01:59,120 that tower into an area called the death zone 27 00:01:59,120 --> 00:02:01,580 where the amount of oxygen in the atmosphere 28 00:02:01,580 --> 00:02:04,293 is insufficient to sustain human life. 29 00:02:07,270 --> 00:02:08,620 Yet, despite the danger 30 00:02:08,620 --> 00:02:11,860 and objective hazards of the world's tallest mountains, 31 00:02:11,860 --> 00:02:15,390 every year teams of alpinists come from around the world 32 00:02:15,390 --> 00:02:17,343 to try to reach these summits. 33 00:02:19,040 --> 00:02:22,623 It is a calling for some, almost a religion for others: 34 00:02:23,770 --> 00:02:26,810 the chance to truly test one's own limits 35 00:02:26,810 --> 00:02:29,236 and do what so few have done before. 36 00:02:29,236 --> 00:02:31,736 (tense music) 37 00:02:35,370 --> 00:02:38,930 In the Karakoram range, on the border of China and Pakistan, 38 00:02:38,930 --> 00:02:42,780 stands K2, the world's second highest peak. 39 00:02:42,780 --> 00:02:46,060 Standing at 8,611 meters, 40 00:02:46,060 --> 00:02:50,450 or 28,251 feet, it is widely considered 41 00:02:50,450 --> 00:02:53,370 to be the world's most difficult mountain to climb. 42 00:02:53,370 --> 00:02:56,240 Climbers regard K2 as the ultimate achievement 43 00:02:56,240 --> 00:02:58,900 in mountaineering, and for good reason. 44 00:02:58,900 --> 00:03:00,860 More people have been to outer space 45 00:03:00,860 --> 00:03:02,360 than have stood on its summit. 46 00:03:04,300 --> 00:03:07,680 In the 117 years of expeditions to K2 47 00:03:07,680 --> 00:03:11,180 from 1902 to June of 2019, 48 00:03:11,180 --> 00:03:13,190 less than 400 people have ever reached 49 00:03:13,190 --> 00:03:15,833 the summit of K2 and lived to talk about it. 50 00:03:17,120 --> 00:03:20,920 After the third American K2 Expedition in 1953, 51 00:03:20,920 --> 00:03:25,317 outfitted by Eddie Bauer, climber George Bell told reporters 52 00:03:25,317 --> 00:03:28,980 "K2 is a savage mountain that tries to kill you" 53 00:03:28,980 --> 00:03:31,040 giving the mountain the nickname it carries 54 00:03:31,040 --> 00:03:33,703 to this very day, the Savage Mountain. 55 00:03:35,490 --> 00:03:38,010 Of all of the peaks over 8,000 meters, 56 00:03:38,010 --> 00:03:42,200 K2 has the second highest fatality rate next to Annapurna. 57 00:03:42,200 --> 00:03:45,310 Approximately, one person dies on K2 58 00:03:45,310 --> 00:03:47,273 for every four who reach the summit. 59 00:03:50,540 --> 00:03:53,300 But K2 isn't some malevolent being. 60 00:03:53,300 --> 00:03:55,853 It's indifferent to suffering but it isn't cruel. 61 00:03:57,160 --> 00:04:00,293 It's environment is hostile, but it isn't angry. 62 00:04:01,360 --> 00:04:03,993 It doesn't have a voice but it does speak. 63 00:04:05,090 --> 00:04:07,780 One of the greatest lessons a climber can learn 64 00:04:07,780 --> 00:04:10,133 is how to listen to the mountain. 65 00:04:12,223 --> 00:04:15,140 (thoughtful music) 66 00:04:23,320 --> 00:04:25,630 Professional mountain guide Adrian Ballinger 67 00:04:25,630 --> 00:04:27,570 has spent the majority of his adult life 68 00:04:27,570 --> 00:04:30,360 climbing and guiding in the high Himalaya. 69 00:04:30,360 --> 00:04:33,890 As the Founder and CEO of Alpenglow Expeditions, 70 00:04:33,890 --> 00:04:36,420 Adrian has spent his career helping others 71 00:04:36,420 --> 00:04:39,643 live their adventure on the big mountains of the world. 72 00:04:42,842 --> 00:04:47,842 - Second and we're about to go up. 73 00:04:51,360 --> 00:04:54,810 Almost all of my climbing on 8000 meter peaks 74 00:04:54,810 --> 00:04:57,910 was with supplemental oxygen, bottled oxygen. 75 00:04:57,910 --> 00:05:01,450 Finally, in 2016, I really wanted to test myself 76 00:05:01,450 --> 00:05:04,030 to my true limits in the biggest mountains 77 00:05:04,030 --> 00:05:08,193 and that's why I tried Everest without supplemental oxygen. 78 00:05:10,580 --> 00:05:12,960 I failed and almost got myself killed. 79 00:05:12,960 --> 00:05:14,670 Only a couple of hours from the summit 80 00:05:14,670 --> 00:05:17,100 after a two month expedition battling cold 81 00:05:17,100 --> 00:05:19,033 and energy levels up high, 82 00:05:19,950 --> 00:05:21,870 even though I was really disappointed in that experience, 83 00:05:21,870 --> 00:05:23,780 it was exactly what I had come for 84 00:05:23,780 --> 00:05:26,100 and it led to me putting the entire next year 85 00:05:26,100 --> 00:05:28,970 putting guiding on hold, my company on hold. 86 00:05:28,970 --> 00:05:32,540 I went back in 2017 with my same Eddie Bauer team 87 00:05:32,540 --> 00:05:34,800 and summited without oxygen. 88 00:05:34,800 --> 00:05:37,200 It was the hardest thing I've ever done. 89 00:05:37,200 --> 00:05:39,030 Getting to the summit I knew I could do, 90 00:05:39,030 --> 00:05:42,090 getting down was really actually pretty scary for me, 91 00:05:42,090 --> 00:05:44,320 it was pretty hard and I needed all of my teammates 92 00:05:44,320 --> 00:05:46,950 to keep me awake, to keep me moving. 93 00:05:46,950 --> 00:05:49,020 I kind of found that limit, that line, 94 00:05:49,020 --> 00:05:51,520 if Everest had been 50 feet higher 95 00:05:51,520 --> 00:05:54,270 I truly don't know if I could have gotten on top of it. 96 00:05:57,100 --> 00:05:59,270 And so, it's taken two years since that experience 97 00:05:59,270 --> 00:06:01,050 to kind of build that feeling back up 98 00:06:01,050 --> 00:06:03,590 to be willing to work that hard again. 99 00:06:03,590 --> 00:06:05,560 I've trained for a full year, 100 00:06:05,560 --> 00:06:08,800 been really focused on my diet and my physical training, 101 00:06:08,800 --> 00:06:10,750 to come in as strong as I possibly can 102 00:06:10,750 --> 00:06:13,730 for this mountain that I know has increased risk 103 00:06:13,730 --> 00:06:16,290 and that the one thing that keeps you safest here 104 00:06:16,290 --> 00:06:18,773 is speed, you have to be fast. 105 00:06:21,410 --> 00:06:22,270 - [Narrator] Although it is only 106 00:06:22,270 --> 00:06:25,240 237 meters lower than Everest, 107 00:06:25,240 --> 00:06:28,280 K2 is a much more difficult to climb. 108 00:06:28,280 --> 00:06:29,590 The terrain is steep, 109 00:06:29,590 --> 00:06:31,580 requiring advanced mountaineering skills 110 00:06:31,580 --> 00:06:33,313 in both rock and ice climbing. 111 00:06:34,950 --> 00:06:36,950 The exposure is extreme in places 112 00:06:36,950 --> 00:06:39,453 where even the smallest mistake could prove fatal. 113 00:06:42,390 --> 00:06:44,220 Bad weather is common 114 00:06:44,220 --> 00:06:46,623 and the risk of avalanche and rockfall is high. 115 00:06:47,750 --> 00:06:49,820 And on top of that, the high altitude 116 00:06:49,820 --> 00:06:52,663 and lack of oxygen make it hard to breathe. 117 00:06:55,540 --> 00:06:56,610 Professional climbers 118 00:06:56,610 --> 00:06:59,610 find that kind of challenge intoxicating. 119 00:06:59,610 --> 00:07:02,660 It's the kind of fuel that stokes their fire. 120 00:07:02,660 --> 00:07:04,720 A test to be taken by those who believe 121 00:07:04,720 --> 00:07:07,133 they have what it takes to reach the summit. 122 00:07:08,870 --> 00:07:12,160 - [Adrian] There's a lot more risk attached to K2 than, 123 00:07:12,160 --> 00:07:13,440 let's say, Mount Everest, 124 00:07:13,440 --> 00:07:16,150 and so I never wanted to go without the right people 125 00:07:16,150 --> 00:07:19,123 and Carla Perez and Topo Esteban Mean 126 00:07:19,123 --> 00:07:22,500 and Palden Namge and Pemba, 127 00:07:22,500 --> 00:07:24,840 these are people that I just trust implicitly 128 00:07:24,840 --> 00:07:27,410 and have spent so much time in the mountains with 129 00:07:27,410 --> 00:07:28,990 that when they finally invited me, 130 00:07:28,990 --> 00:07:31,260 you know really this was Carla and Topo's trip originally 131 00:07:31,260 --> 00:07:32,810 and they invited me on the trip 132 00:07:32,810 --> 00:07:34,887 and it was, like, just all of the sudden 133 00:07:34,887 --> 00:07:37,763 it was like it's absolutely the right time. 134 00:07:40,130 --> 00:07:42,370 - [Narrator] As a Certified Ecuadorian mountain guide, 135 00:07:42,370 --> 00:07:46,140 Carla Perez had guided on big mountains all over the world. 136 00:07:46,140 --> 00:07:47,610 She has successfully summited 137 00:07:47,610 --> 00:07:50,550 three of the 14 8000 meter peaks. 138 00:07:50,550 --> 00:07:54,360 And she's done each one without using supplemental oxygen. 139 00:07:54,360 --> 00:07:58,440 Manaslu in 2012, Cho Oyo in 2014 140 00:07:58,440 --> 00:08:00,513 and Everest in 2016. 141 00:08:01,670 --> 00:08:04,620 - Now I have been climbing for 20 years. 142 00:08:04,620 --> 00:08:08,020 I think in these trips, most of the time, 143 00:08:08,020 --> 00:08:13,020 you are really close to death and you really face the death, 144 00:08:13,190 --> 00:08:15,250 so you want to enjoy more your life, 145 00:08:15,250 --> 00:08:19,320 enjoy more the people and all these small details 146 00:08:19,320 --> 00:08:21,910 and things in life that sometimes we didn't think about, 147 00:08:21,910 --> 00:08:24,920 one day when we are there and we are scared 148 00:08:24,920 --> 00:08:27,060 and we are really close to death 149 00:08:27,060 --> 00:08:32,060 we feel that the small things are the real important things. 150 00:08:33,000 --> 00:08:34,940 - [Adrian] It's actually only Carla and I 151 00:08:34,940 --> 00:08:36,460 are trying without oxygen, 152 00:08:36,460 --> 00:08:38,030 and then we have three team members 153 00:08:38,030 --> 00:08:39,549 who are supporting us up high. 154 00:08:39,549 --> 00:08:41,729 That's Topo, Palden and Pemba. 155 00:08:41,730 --> 00:08:44,880 They'll actually all be using supplemental oxygen 156 00:08:44,880 --> 00:08:47,590 which helps them make clearer decisions 157 00:08:47,590 --> 00:08:49,740 and gives them more power and strength 158 00:08:49,740 --> 00:08:52,760 while we know we're struggling for our lives up there. 159 00:08:52,760 --> 00:08:55,720 I'm at a point in my career, where I want to have help 160 00:08:55,720 --> 00:08:58,200 making those impossible decisions up high 161 00:08:58,200 --> 00:08:59,583 when things go wrong. 162 00:09:01,230 --> 00:09:03,390 - [Narrator] Previously the greatest number of climbers 163 00:09:03,390 --> 00:09:06,540 to attempt K2 in a single season was 80. 164 00:09:06,540 --> 00:09:10,750 But in 2019, Pakistan issued more permits than ever before. 165 00:09:10,750 --> 00:09:13,460 No less than 200 climbers would be attempting 166 00:09:13,460 --> 00:09:16,090 to reach the summit of K2, and for many, 167 00:09:16,090 --> 00:09:17,870 it would be their first time climbing 168 00:09:17,870 --> 00:09:20,610 on a peak above 8000 meters. 169 00:09:20,610 --> 00:09:23,653 - This year we have more people trying to climb K2. 170 00:09:24,640 --> 00:09:28,280 I'm not sure how many they want to try without oxygen 171 00:09:28,280 --> 00:09:30,820 or how many they want to try with oxygen, 172 00:09:30,820 --> 00:09:34,640 but for sure, in this mountain that is more technical, 173 00:09:34,640 --> 00:09:39,640 we will have more neck bottles, traffic jams, 174 00:09:39,713 --> 00:09:44,520 and that is a dangerous thing. 175 00:09:44,520 --> 00:09:46,530 - That intimidates me. 176 00:09:46,530 --> 00:09:48,370 On this mountain, you need to be independent, 177 00:09:48,370 --> 00:09:51,000 you need to be fast, you need to know everything 178 00:09:51,000 --> 00:09:53,760 instinctually when the shit hits the fan which, 179 00:09:53,760 --> 00:09:56,860 it inevitably it does on this mountain every year. 180 00:09:56,860 --> 00:09:59,070 And I don't believe you can have the level of experience 181 00:09:59,070 --> 00:10:01,690 necessary to do that without at least three 8000 meter peaks 182 00:10:01,690 --> 00:10:05,560 before coming here and that's what I'm already, 183 00:10:05,560 --> 00:10:06,650 I'm getting on my soapbox, 184 00:10:06,650 --> 00:10:08,280 that's what I'm getting fired up about. 185 00:10:08,280 --> 00:10:10,063 It's not that people shouldn't be here 186 00:10:10,063 --> 00:10:12,890 and that we can't have more people in the mountains playing, 187 00:10:12,890 --> 00:10:15,893 it's that, you need the experience to stay alive. 188 00:10:17,537 --> 00:10:19,888 (wind howling) 189 00:10:19,888 --> 00:10:23,120 (tense music) 190 00:10:23,120 --> 00:10:25,330 - [Narrator] June 19, 2019. 191 00:10:25,330 --> 00:10:26,890 Skaardu, Pakistan 192 00:10:28,010 --> 00:10:30,410 Over 40 duffels and barrels of food, 193 00:10:30,410 --> 00:10:33,960 climbing gear and equipment necessary for the expedition, 194 00:10:33,960 --> 00:10:37,340 would accompany the team into the Karakoram. 195 00:10:37,340 --> 00:10:41,110 As they would soon discover, just trekking into K2 base camp 196 00:10:41,110 --> 00:10:43,390 would be an adventure of its own. 197 00:10:43,390 --> 00:10:45,090 - It's meant to be a pretty wild 198 00:10:45,090 --> 00:10:48,510 six to seven hour four wheel drive jeep road 199 00:10:48,510 --> 00:10:50,502 up into the mountains. 200 00:10:50,502 --> 00:10:52,457 (exclaims) 201 00:10:52,457 --> 00:10:53,770 But the drop's not that far. 202 00:10:53,770 --> 00:10:56,179 - [Man] Yeah, it's not too bad, right? 203 00:10:56,179 --> 00:10:59,133 (laughing) 204 00:10:59,133 --> 00:11:00,966 Oh my gosh, oh my god. 205 00:11:02,478 --> 00:11:03,974 Look at this right here. 206 00:11:03,974 --> 00:11:05,790 Oh dude, that is not cool. 207 00:11:05,790 --> 00:11:07,190 - [Adrian] Once we get to Askole, 208 00:11:07,190 --> 00:11:10,380 we'll meet all of our porters and local staff 209 00:11:10,380 --> 00:11:13,750 organize all of our loads and then begin 210 00:11:13,750 --> 00:11:16,180 a seven day walk into base camp. 211 00:11:16,180 --> 00:11:17,810 We're joining with a few other teams 212 00:11:17,810 --> 00:11:19,860 to get to base camp and we'll probably have 213 00:11:19,860 --> 00:11:22,840 a few hundred local porters with us, 214 00:11:22,840 --> 00:11:24,310 so it's gonna be like a village 215 00:11:24,310 --> 00:11:26,480 or a city traveling together up the valley. 216 00:11:26,480 --> 00:11:28,470 And what everyone, says the walk is long, 217 00:11:28,470 --> 00:11:30,280 I think it's about 90 kilometers, 218 00:11:30,280 --> 00:11:32,460 so you're doing big distances each day. 219 00:11:32,460 --> 00:11:35,110 Starting quite low, so it's gonna be hot 220 00:11:35,110 --> 00:11:38,760 and then getting onto the glaciers. 221 00:11:38,760 --> 00:11:41,300 So we're actually trekking along the side of the glaciers 222 00:11:41,300 --> 00:11:43,810 all the way up into the mountains 223 00:11:43,810 --> 00:11:45,850 and finally to K2 base camp 224 00:11:45,850 --> 00:11:48,023 which sits at the end of the valley. 225 00:11:51,070 --> 00:11:53,480 It had been less than a month since Carla and Adrian 226 00:11:53,480 --> 00:11:56,350 were working and guiding on Mount Everest. 227 00:11:56,350 --> 00:11:58,270 While each of them used bottled oxygen 228 00:11:58,270 --> 00:12:00,280 while guiding their clients, 229 00:12:00,280 --> 00:12:02,710 the two months spent at extreme altitude 230 00:12:02,710 --> 00:12:06,670 had taken a physical and mental toll on both of them. 231 00:12:06,670 --> 00:12:10,380 As a result they were beginning this expedition to K2 232 00:12:10,380 --> 00:12:13,690 In a weaker state than any other part of their year. 233 00:12:13,690 --> 00:12:16,660 - Our team is really focusing on just recovering. 234 00:12:16,660 --> 00:12:18,710 Carla, Topo and I have all had 235 00:12:18,710 --> 00:12:21,870 just pretty wild travel schedules the past couple weeks. 236 00:12:21,870 --> 00:12:24,890 We were all on Everest this spring and just finished. 237 00:12:24,890 --> 00:12:27,930 And then got home for a few days, and now we're here. 238 00:12:27,930 --> 00:12:29,063 It's been a whirlwind. 239 00:12:30,777 --> 00:12:32,110 I hope we get to see a little bit of the culture, 240 00:12:32,110 --> 00:12:33,317 and meet some of these mountain people 241 00:12:33,317 --> 00:12:36,630 who work so hard up here and live up here, year-round. 242 00:12:36,630 --> 00:12:40,000 And just sort of settle into the rhythm of our team. 243 00:12:40,000 --> 00:12:41,780 It's so important on a big trip like this 244 00:12:41,780 --> 00:12:43,823 just to get into a rhythm together. 245 00:12:45,150 --> 00:12:47,220 - [Narrator] But midway through the trek to base camp, 246 00:12:47,220 --> 00:12:51,600 at a camp called Goro 2, that rhythm was disrupted severely 247 00:12:51,600 --> 00:12:54,753 when Adrian suddenly fell extremely ill overnight. 248 00:12:55,781 --> 00:12:58,660 It would be the first of many setbacks and red flags 249 00:12:58,660 --> 00:12:59,850 that the team would face 250 00:12:59,850 --> 00:13:02,440 over the next month on the mountain. 251 00:13:02,440 --> 00:13:03,493 - Well, that sucked. 252 00:13:04,440 --> 00:13:07,890 I went from being on Cloud Nine on this trek 253 00:13:07,890 --> 00:13:11,800 to last night getting as sick as I think I've been 254 00:13:11,800 --> 00:13:16,073 since I was 22 backpacking through India. 255 00:13:17,960 --> 00:13:19,340 You don't want the gory details, 256 00:13:19,340 --> 00:13:22,690 maybe you do, both ends. 257 00:13:22,690 --> 00:13:24,600 Real rough, non-stop. 258 00:13:24,600 --> 00:13:28,020 And then got so cold that I couldn't stop shivering. 259 00:13:28,020 --> 00:13:30,403 Even though we're only at 14,000 feet. 260 00:13:31,559 --> 00:13:33,950 And Topo, Carla, Pemba and Palden ended up 261 00:13:33,950 --> 00:13:36,523 totally taking care of me. 262 00:13:37,500 --> 00:13:40,220 Came to the kitchen to fire up a bunch of water, 263 00:13:40,220 --> 00:13:41,520 so I could have hot water bottles 264 00:13:41,520 --> 00:13:46,093 and just went through a legit hellish night. 265 00:13:47,600 --> 00:13:48,940 But I think I'm turning the corner, 266 00:13:48,940 --> 00:13:51,820 I haven't puked in two hours 267 00:13:51,820 --> 00:13:54,410 which is a record since 11:00 p.m. last night. 268 00:13:54,410 --> 00:13:55,410 So, we're staying. 269 00:13:55,410 --> 00:13:57,700 We're not moving up to Broad Peak base camp today 270 00:13:57,700 --> 00:13:58,560 with the rest of the group. 271 00:13:58,560 --> 00:14:00,720 Which I was so excited to do, to see friends there. 272 00:14:00,720 --> 00:14:02,217 But skipping it. 273 00:14:02,217 --> 00:14:05,770 I think we're gonna spend two more nights here in Goro 2 274 00:14:05,770 --> 00:14:10,770 and I hope that'll get me back on track. 275 00:14:10,790 --> 00:14:13,840 So not only can I move and walk, 276 00:14:13,840 --> 00:14:15,747 but so I can walk to K2 base camp 277 00:14:15,747 --> 00:14:18,293 and be not completely shattered. 278 00:14:18,293 --> 00:14:21,880 (thoughtful music) 279 00:14:21,880 --> 00:14:23,200 - [Narrator] As commercial climbing teams 280 00:14:23,200 --> 00:14:26,490 pressed on with the porters toward the K2 base camp, 281 00:14:26,490 --> 00:14:29,200 Adrian's team stayed behind at Goro 2 282 00:14:29,200 --> 00:14:31,400 and waited for him to get his strength back. 283 00:14:32,450 --> 00:14:36,290 As they waited, intimidating reports began to trickle in 284 00:14:36,290 --> 00:14:38,350 about what lay ahead. 285 00:14:38,350 --> 00:14:40,820 - We've been hearing nothing but negatives. 286 00:14:40,820 --> 00:14:43,650 The most snow in 30 years on the mountain 287 00:14:43,650 --> 00:14:45,660 and in the Karakoram. 288 00:14:45,660 --> 00:14:48,760 Still heavy snowing now, loads of snow at base camp. 289 00:14:48,760 --> 00:14:50,518 Then we heard about this big avalanche 290 00:14:50,518 --> 00:14:52,920 that already wiped out one team's camp 291 00:14:52,920 --> 00:14:55,730 and already sent a K2 team home. 292 00:14:55,730 --> 00:14:58,040 We've heard about missing climbers on another mountain 293 00:14:58,040 --> 00:14:59,680 just two days away from us 294 00:14:59,680 --> 00:15:02,460 that we assume were by avalanche. 295 00:15:02,460 --> 00:15:05,987 so the cooks are telling us "Bad season, bad season. 296 00:15:05,987 --> 00:15:08,600 "Not the year to go, no go, no go." 297 00:15:08,600 --> 00:15:11,360 And I feel like I want to take the same approach 298 00:15:11,360 --> 00:15:13,550 I've taken to every mountain I've even taken 299 00:15:13,550 --> 00:15:17,210 and that's to go until the mountain tells me 300 00:15:17,210 --> 00:15:18,293 I can't go anymore. 301 00:15:19,290 --> 00:15:20,550 - [Narrator] Three days later, 302 00:15:20,550 --> 00:15:24,100 Adrian was back on his feet, strong enough to walk, 303 00:15:24,100 --> 00:15:27,150 but the porters returning from K2 base camp 304 00:15:27,150 --> 00:15:29,960 refused to take them up the valley. 305 00:15:29,960 --> 00:15:31,550 The dozens of commercial teams 306 00:15:31,550 --> 00:15:35,020 whom they had escorted to base camp just days before 307 00:15:35,020 --> 00:15:38,418 had failed to follow protocol and had tipped them poorly 308 00:15:38,418 --> 00:15:42,193 for the work they did on the difficult week long trek. 309 00:15:44,599 --> 00:15:47,349 - And when we say bad tip we mean 310 00:15:49,637 --> 00:15:53,460 $2 per bag, 311 00:15:53,460 --> 00:15:56,127 that's very bad because it's nothing. 312 00:15:56,127 --> 00:15:58,010 - [Meng] What's a good tip? 313 00:15:58,010 --> 00:16:00,193 - I think at least $10, $15 dollars. 314 00:16:01,140 --> 00:16:04,827 That is already not much, but they like that. 315 00:16:04,827 --> 00:16:09,580 $10 or $15 per bag when you arrive to basecamp from Askole 316 00:16:09,580 --> 00:16:10,913 like seven days trekking. 317 00:16:11,800 --> 00:16:14,220 - [Narrator] Adrian and Carla suddenly found themselves 318 00:16:14,220 --> 00:16:17,603 innocent bystanders in a full on porter strike. 319 00:16:18,460 --> 00:16:20,580 - [Adrian] We've been stuck for three nights 320 00:16:20,580 --> 00:16:24,370 trying to persuade some porters and horses 321 00:16:24,370 --> 00:16:28,360 coming down to please take us to K2 base camp. 322 00:16:28,360 --> 00:16:29,580 Beautiful weather, 323 00:16:29,580 --> 00:16:32,260 but they've had a really hard time climbing 324 00:16:32,260 --> 00:16:35,993 so they're not super excited to go back up again. 325 00:16:37,350 --> 00:16:40,563 But right now, we're feeling pretty stranded. 326 00:16:42,400 --> 00:16:44,896 - [Narrator] After convincing a small group of 15 porters 327 00:16:44,896 --> 00:16:47,340 that they would be well compensated 328 00:16:47,340 --> 00:16:49,330 for taking them to K2 base camp, 329 00:16:49,330 --> 00:16:52,270 the team was, once again, on the move. 330 00:16:52,270 --> 00:16:54,040 But the agonizing stomach bug 331 00:16:54,040 --> 00:16:58,080 that had plagued Adrian days before came screaming back. 332 00:16:58,080 --> 00:17:01,030 Despite how much it hurt, Adrian suffered through it 333 00:17:01,030 --> 00:17:04,210 to get to K2 base camp as the team was already 334 00:17:04,210 --> 00:17:06,760 an entire week behind schedule. 335 00:17:06,760 --> 00:17:09,540 Any further delays would put the team in jeopardy 336 00:17:09,540 --> 00:17:12,233 and not allow them enough time to climb the mountain. 337 00:17:13,339 --> 00:17:16,479 With K2 base camp finally in sight, 338 00:17:16,480 --> 00:17:19,623 the mountain seemed to greet them with a dire warning. 339 00:17:20,930 --> 00:17:23,420 - [Adrian] Walking into base camp on K2 and, of course, 340 00:17:23,420 --> 00:17:28,060 the first thing we see huge avalanche cloud 341 00:17:28,940 --> 00:17:31,070 covering the route from base camp 342 00:17:31,070 --> 00:17:33,263 to the base of the Abruzzi. 343 00:17:34,340 --> 00:17:35,173 Shin! 344 00:17:37,730 --> 00:17:40,480 - [Narrator] However, so close to his lifelong dream 345 00:17:40,480 --> 00:17:43,520 of climbing K2, Adrian could only see 346 00:17:43,520 --> 00:17:45,873 positives upon their arrival. 347 00:17:46,930 --> 00:17:49,737 - Well, here we are. 348 00:17:50,842 --> 00:17:55,842 The trek took 50% longer than we kind of planned on 349 00:17:56,202 --> 00:17:59,630 due to sickness and then porters leaving us, 350 00:17:59,630 --> 00:18:02,023 but take a look. 351 00:18:04,170 --> 00:18:09,170 There's Carla and K2 base camp just beyond. 352 00:18:10,620 --> 00:18:11,633 It's big! 353 00:18:12,597 --> 00:18:14,940 But it is so exciting. 354 00:18:14,940 --> 00:18:17,110 Right below the mountain. 355 00:18:17,110 --> 00:18:19,554 Coming out of the clouds now. 356 00:18:19,554 --> 00:18:20,882 (exhales) 357 00:18:20,882 --> 00:18:24,750 The Abruzzi Ridge kind of furthest skyline. 358 00:18:24,750 --> 00:18:28,346 So stoked to be here. 359 00:18:28,346 --> 00:18:31,080 (thoughtful music) 360 00:18:31,080 --> 00:18:33,230 - [Narrator] With the porters well-compensated 361 00:18:33,230 --> 00:18:36,120 and the team's tents finally set up at base camp 362 00:18:36,120 --> 00:18:38,550 the time had come to start climbing. 363 00:18:38,550 --> 00:18:41,280 Adrian made the decision to forego rest 364 00:18:41,280 --> 00:18:43,900 and join the team on a scouting mission. 365 00:18:43,900 --> 00:18:46,970 Although he had lost 10 pounds since his illness, 366 00:18:46,970 --> 00:18:48,640 he wouldn't let it prevent him 367 00:18:48,640 --> 00:18:52,170 from getting his first real look at the base of K2. 368 00:18:52,170 --> 00:18:54,480 - Well, it hurts. 369 00:18:54,480 --> 00:18:55,980 But I'm still following Carla. 370 00:18:57,491 --> 00:18:59,341 - Whoo hoo! - I'm trying to keep up. 371 00:19:00,280 --> 00:19:03,150 Just got to the base of the Abruzzi route 372 00:19:03,150 --> 00:19:04,800 which we want to check out today. 373 00:19:05,790 --> 00:19:07,730 - [Narrator] They planned to climb to Camp 1 374 00:19:07,730 --> 00:19:10,230 and do a light survey of the Abruzzi route, 375 00:19:10,230 --> 00:19:14,320 but things took a turn for the worse only a few hours in. 376 00:19:14,320 --> 00:19:15,820 - Halfway on the way to camp 1 377 00:19:16,780 --> 00:19:18,580 on a warming morning. 378 00:19:18,580 --> 00:19:20,230 Just had a pretty real wet slide. 379 00:19:21,388 --> 00:19:22,500 We saw two people caught in it, 380 00:19:22,500 --> 00:19:23,800 but we think they got out, 381 00:19:25,230 --> 00:19:28,153 but it's running hard and fast. 382 00:19:29,650 --> 00:19:33,313 Nice first day up there, reminding us, 383 00:19:34,560 --> 00:19:38,900 it's not gonna be easy, even when the weather seems perfect. 384 00:19:38,900 --> 00:19:43,840 So, back to base camp tails slightly between our legs. 385 00:19:45,920 --> 00:19:49,600 It's July 4th, were in K2 base camp. 386 00:19:49,600 --> 00:19:51,063 5000 meters, 16.5. 387 00:19:52,088 --> 00:19:53,320 We had a little adventure yesterday, 388 00:19:53,320 --> 00:19:55,300 got a little bit of a feel of the Abruzzi route 389 00:19:55,300 --> 00:19:57,300 and some of the hazards of the mountain. 390 00:19:57,300 --> 00:19:58,683 Today little bit cloudy. 391 00:19:59,900 --> 00:20:03,670 I am on my third anti-biotic course, 392 00:20:03,670 --> 00:20:06,230 but this one seems maybe to be working. 393 00:20:06,230 --> 00:20:09,610 I woke up without the gnarly burps 394 00:20:09,610 --> 00:20:11,580 and other stuff you don't need to hear about. 395 00:20:11,580 --> 00:20:13,330 So that's the good news, but the bad news, 396 00:20:13,330 --> 00:20:16,003 Carla went downhill. 397 00:20:17,140 --> 00:20:18,820 Think she got a little sick. 398 00:20:18,820 --> 00:20:20,813 She's recovering now, she's smiling, 399 00:20:22,830 --> 00:20:24,600 but we really need to be healthy 400 00:20:24,600 --> 00:20:26,290 to be able to move fast on K2 401 00:20:26,290 --> 00:20:28,570 so we might be holding off another day or two 402 00:20:28,570 --> 00:20:32,910 until we move, but the boys, Topo, Palden and Pemba 403 00:20:32,910 --> 00:20:34,660 might go for an adventure tomorrow. 404 00:20:41,260 --> 00:20:42,330 - [Narrator] As Carla and Adrian 405 00:20:42,330 --> 00:20:46,410 took a day to rest and recover, Topo, Palden, and Pemba 406 00:20:46,410 --> 00:20:50,430 set out on the less crowded, but more technical Cesen route 407 00:20:50,430 --> 00:20:53,353 in order to establish the team's high camps. 408 00:20:54,450 --> 00:20:57,270 - [Adrian] K2 is a really technical steep route 409 00:20:57,270 --> 00:21:00,620 with very small campsites, just little ledges, 410 00:21:00,620 --> 00:21:03,710 where you can set tents on the upper mountain 411 00:21:03,710 --> 00:21:05,263 and there are no other choices. 412 00:21:06,240 --> 00:21:08,530 - [Narrator] On K2, setting up a high camp 413 00:21:08,530 --> 00:21:11,960 without the protection of a ridge or rock wall 414 00:21:11,960 --> 00:21:13,420 would be like building your house 415 00:21:13,420 --> 00:21:15,273 in the middle of the freeway. 416 00:21:15,273 --> 00:21:19,270 Exposed camps on steep slopes are in constant danger 417 00:21:19,270 --> 00:21:22,530 of being struck by avalanche or rockfall. 418 00:21:22,530 --> 00:21:24,870 So, what do you do when you're one of the last teams 419 00:21:24,870 --> 00:21:27,140 up the mountain and all of the safe campsites 420 00:21:27,140 --> 00:21:28,580 have been claimed? 421 00:21:28,580 --> 00:21:30,360 If you're experienced mountain guides 422 00:21:30,360 --> 00:21:32,810 like Topo, Pemba, and Palden, 423 00:21:32,810 --> 00:21:36,163 you grab some empty rice sacks and improvise. 424 00:21:37,663 --> 00:21:40,400 - [Topo] What we did is we build like platforms 425 00:21:40,400 --> 00:21:42,130 with the rice sacks. 426 00:21:42,130 --> 00:21:43,590 A lot of the people came 427 00:21:43,590 --> 00:21:47,300 and they are in the very center of the spot. 428 00:21:47,300 --> 00:21:52,300 We build two terraces on an area that nothing existed. 429 00:21:52,510 --> 00:21:54,440 - [Adrian] Perfect, and you think they're strong enough? 430 00:21:54,440 --> 00:21:55,273 They're not gonna collapse? 431 00:21:55,273 --> 00:21:56,106 - [Topo] They're very strong. 432 00:21:56,106 --> 00:21:59,910 We put pitons and we spent a long time. 433 00:21:59,910 --> 00:22:01,670 - [Adrian] So, you set two tents? 434 00:22:01,670 --> 00:22:04,082 - [Topo] So we set one tent, our tent. 435 00:22:04,082 --> 00:22:07,050 Ånd the other we just left the platform 436 00:22:07,050 --> 00:22:10,270 with the duffel bag so, it's claimed. 437 00:22:10,270 --> 00:22:11,190 - Great job, dude! 438 00:22:11,190 --> 00:22:12,397 Three hours, huh? - Great work you guys. 439 00:22:12,397 --> 00:22:13,930 - Yeah, it was pretty-- 440 00:22:13,930 --> 00:22:15,406 - Three hours to make the platform? 441 00:22:15,406 --> 00:22:16,239 - Yeah. - Oh my god. 442 00:22:16,239 --> 00:22:18,460 - That's gonna make a big difference for tomorrow. 443 00:22:18,460 --> 00:22:19,653 - Andre, thank you. - Totally. 444 00:22:21,190 --> 00:22:23,000 - [Narrator] While camps set higher on the mountain 445 00:22:23,000 --> 00:22:26,270 certainly offer up more spectacular views, 446 00:22:26,270 --> 00:22:27,860 the necessity behind them 447 00:22:27,860 --> 00:22:31,500 has more to do with science than with scenery. 448 00:22:31,500 --> 00:22:34,700 Spending prolonged periods in a low oxygen environment 449 00:22:34,700 --> 00:22:38,230 stimulates red blood cell production in the human body. 450 00:22:38,230 --> 00:22:39,940 The more red blood cells there are, 451 00:22:39,940 --> 00:22:43,850 the more oxygen they can carry to the brain and vital organs 452 00:22:43,850 --> 00:22:45,810 even when the air is thin. 453 00:22:45,810 --> 00:22:48,107 This is called acclimatization. 454 00:22:49,614 --> 00:22:53,050 There are no shortcuts to the top of any mountain 455 00:22:53,050 --> 00:22:56,460 especially when climbing without supplemental oxygen. 456 00:22:56,460 --> 00:22:58,800 And because every individual is different, 457 00:22:58,800 --> 00:23:01,610 proper acclimatization at extreme altitude 458 00:23:01,610 --> 00:23:05,223 takes patience, persistence and a lot of practice. 459 00:23:07,775 --> 00:23:10,120 - Carla and I have both climbed Everest 460 00:23:10,120 --> 00:23:12,710 without supplemental oxygen and it took both of us 461 00:23:12,710 --> 00:23:15,250 two tries to do that before being successful 462 00:23:15,250 --> 00:23:17,820 and so I think we both had a real idea 463 00:23:17,820 --> 00:23:21,050 of what we wanted for our bodies to acclimatize 464 00:23:21,050 --> 00:23:23,900 and we really didn't want to, short circuit that system 465 00:23:23,900 --> 00:23:26,040 or skip any steps. 466 00:23:26,040 --> 00:23:29,710 We wanted a minimum of two big rotations on the mountain 467 00:23:29,710 --> 00:23:33,120 before summit push and we both wanted to get 468 00:23:33,120 --> 00:23:36,280 as high as we could, spend a bunch of nights up high 469 00:23:36,280 --> 00:23:40,460 and ideally sleep at Camp 4 at 7800 meters 470 00:23:40,460 --> 00:23:42,093 before our summit push. 471 00:23:44,340 --> 00:23:49,340 Well, day six of our acclimatization rotation. 472 00:23:49,450 --> 00:23:50,873 We're at 23,000 feet. 473 00:23:51,710 --> 00:23:53,393 We are packing up. 474 00:23:53,393 --> 00:23:56,200 It's still night time 'cause we got a little scared. 475 00:23:56,200 --> 00:23:58,100 A bunch of snow last night we think, 476 00:23:58,100 --> 00:24:00,000 really warm temps. 477 00:24:00,000 --> 00:24:01,640 So, we're gonna get off the slope, 478 00:24:01,640 --> 00:24:04,240 get off the mountain before the sun hits it at 7:00. 479 00:24:09,290 --> 00:24:10,493 Why are you smiling? 480 00:24:12,430 --> 00:24:13,790 - Because it's fun! 481 00:24:13,790 --> 00:24:16,720 - [Adrian] It's so damn fun! 482 00:24:16,720 --> 00:24:18,857 Being teammates with Carla and Topo 483 00:24:18,857 --> 00:24:22,080 is really a dream and has been for years 484 00:24:22,080 --> 00:24:24,960 as we've built our friendship and working relationship 485 00:24:24,960 --> 00:24:27,090 and climbing relationship together. 486 00:24:27,090 --> 00:24:30,410 You know, when I see them deal with stress and risk, 487 00:24:30,410 --> 00:24:33,940 their decision making is so on point and they're so focused, 488 00:24:33,940 --> 00:24:36,680 but at the same time, their attitude is just right, 489 00:24:36,680 --> 00:24:40,420 it's easy to be around, it keeps me feeling confident. 490 00:24:40,420 --> 00:24:44,183 Topo, what are you doing at 21,000 feet? (laughing) 491 00:24:47,248 --> 00:24:51,930 - My frother got excited! (laughs) 492 00:24:51,930 --> 00:24:53,620 - That mindset in the big mountains, 493 00:24:53,620 --> 00:24:56,520 especially without oxygen where, inevitably, 494 00:24:56,520 --> 00:24:59,400 we're all gonna feel like the worst 495 00:24:59,400 --> 00:25:01,500 we've ever felt in our lives. 496 00:25:01,500 --> 00:25:03,900 Having that kind of, like, stoke and passion 497 00:25:03,900 --> 00:25:07,128 and belief that we can still succeed, 498 00:25:07,128 --> 00:25:10,083 it's so important, it's immeasurable. 499 00:25:11,260 --> 00:25:12,200 We're hanging out in the tent. 500 00:25:12,200 --> 00:25:14,800 We might have carbon monoxide poisoning 501 00:25:14,800 --> 00:25:17,066 'cause Carla says we might have died last night. 502 00:25:17,066 --> 00:25:19,650 But our souls are still very happy 503 00:25:19,650 --> 00:25:21,599 and they went climbing today to Camp 3. 504 00:25:21,599 --> 00:25:24,386 (laughs) 505 00:25:24,386 --> 00:25:27,870 And our souls are enjoying the view. 506 00:25:27,870 --> 00:25:29,220 They're just good humans. 507 00:25:29,220 --> 00:25:30,970 They care about the people around them. 508 00:25:30,970 --> 00:25:32,410 When they're asking you questions 509 00:25:32,410 --> 00:25:35,490 you know that they're listening and interested. 510 00:25:35,490 --> 00:25:38,010 And there's nothing fake or pretend there 511 00:25:38,010 --> 00:25:40,080 and I feel like I'd spend every day with them, 512 00:25:40,080 --> 00:25:45,023 if I could, guiding and climbing and just having fun. 513 00:25:46,580 --> 00:25:48,460 Debris pile. 514 00:25:48,460 --> 00:25:50,010 The bottom of the Chesan Route. 515 00:25:51,020 --> 00:25:54,313 Much, much taller than I am. 516 00:25:55,220 --> 00:26:00,220 This is the spot where you just go as fast as you can, 517 00:26:02,850 --> 00:26:04,223 hope it's not your day. 518 00:26:06,210 --> 00:26:07,043 It's not my day. 519 00:26:07,949 --> 00:26:09,949 It's gonna be all right. 520 00:26:12,550 --> 00:26:15,420 - [Narrator] It's 4:30 am on July 14th. 521 00:26:15,420 --> 00:26:19,030 The start of the teams' second acclimatization rotation 522 00:26:19,030 --> 00:26:22,620 where Carla, Adrian, and Topo will spend the next four days 523 00:26:22,620 --> 00:26:25,180 living at the highest camps on the mountain, 524 00:26:25,180 --> 00:26:29,110 enduring two nights at Camp 3 at 7200 meters. 525 00:26:29,110 --> 00:26:31,670 Then climbing to 7800 meters 526 00:26:31,670 --> 00:26:34,390 to suffer through a hard and painful night 527 00:26:34,390 --> 00:26:37,120 acclimatizing at Camp 4. 528 00:26:37,120 --> 00:26:38,929 - [Adrian] It's gonna be an interesting day, 529 00:26:38,929 --> 00:26:41,470 today's the first day we are seeing a big rush of people. 530 00:26:41,470 --> 00:26:46,300 Summit teams heading out on both routes. 531 00:26:46,300 --> 00:26:47,850 So it'll be interesting to see if it changes 532 00:26:47,850 --> 00:26:49,720 the character of the climbing. 533 00:26:49,720 --> 00:26:52,373 Possible rock fall, possible ice fall. 534 00:26:54,150 --> 00:26:55,676 Possibly having to get creative. 535 00:26:55,676 --> 00:26:57,390 (unsettling music) 536 00:26:57,390 --> 00:27:00,740 Good weather windows are rare in the Karakoram range, 537 00:27:00,740 --> 00:27:02,253 especially on K2. 538 00:27:03,200 --> 00:27:05,220 Weather conditions are unpredictable 539 00:27:05,220 --> 00:27:07,580 because K2 rises so much higher 540 00:27:07,580 --> 00:27:09,470 than the mountains around it. 541 00:27:09,470 --> 00:27:11,170 It touches the upper atmosphere, 542 00:27:11,170 --> 00:27:13,780 so it can create eddies in the jet stream 543 00:27:13,780 --> 00:27:17,200 like a rock jutting out of a raging river. 544 00:27:17,200 --> 00:27:19,297 So when weather conditions are favorable, 545 00:27:19,297 --> 00:27:21,340 that's the signal for most teams 546 00:27:21,340 --> 00:27:22,913 to attempt their summit push. 547 00:27:24,280 --> 00:27:27,450 - [Adrian] We're definitely in stress mode now. 548 00:27:27,450 --> 00:27:30,930 But really just because of unknowns, right? 549 00:27:30,930 --> 00:27:32,520 Lots of teams are trying to go to the summit 550 00:27:32,520 --> 00:27:34,617 in this three day good weather period now. 551 00:27:34,617 --> 00:27:36,680 And it's kind of hard not to be going 552 00:27:36,680 --> 00:27:39,693 and being afraid that we might miss the one window. 553 00:27:41,200 --> 00:27:45,340 But the reality is, we've got to acclimatize, 554 00:27:45,340 --> 00:27:49,430 so we're hanging out trying to stay patient, 555 00:27:49,430 --> 00:27:50,280 see what happens. 556 00:27:55,997 --> 00:27:57,120 Getting ready to move early today 557 00:27:57,120 --> 00:27:59,360 in our down suits for the first time. 558 00:27:59,360 --> 00:28:02,773 Trying to make it to 25,500 feet and spend a night. 559 00:28:05,000 --> 00:28:10,000 Last people we talked to did it on oxygen in 8 plus hours, 560 00:28:10,610 --> 00:28:13,020 so we're a little intimidated 561 00:28:14,124 --> 00:28:15,933 but we've just got to start walking. 562 00:28:17,480 --> 00:28:18,440 Up, up, up. 563 00:28:19,781 --> 00:28:21,198 Headed to Camp 4. 564 00:28:24,760 --> 00:28:26,243 The work is real now. 565 00:28:31,870 --> 00:28:34,200 Everybody asks. 566 00:28:34,200 --> 00:28:36,323 No, these are not oxygen masks. 567 00:28:37,280 --> 00:28:41,010 But we have found 'em pretty key to climbing without oxygen. 568 00:28:41,010 --> 00:28:44,370 They capture humidity and warmth as you breath out, 569 00:28:44,370 --> 00:28:49,370 so the next breath you breathe in, is already pre-warmed. 570 00:28:49,680 --> 00:28:54,680 Makes a huge difference to not getting as bad a cough 571 00:28:54,960 --> 00:28:56,380 up here when you might be breathing 572 00:28:56,380 --> 00:28:58,253 40 or more times a minute. 573 00:28:59,930 --> 00:29:02,743 Plus, they look pretty cool, right? 574 00:29:05,090 --> 00:29:06,560 - [Narrator] On the way to Camp 4, 575 00:29:06,560 --> 00:29:09,160 the team got an up-close and personal look 576 00:29:09,160 --> 00:29:12,890 at one of the deadliest features on the mountain. 577 00:29:12,890 --> 00:29:15,730 - [Adrian] Finally getting a look at the beast. 578 00:29:15,730 --> 00:29:16,913 The bottleneck serac. 579 00:29:18,080 --> 00:29:19,483 It's a huge ice cliff. 580 00:29:20,340 --> 00:29:22,213 Up and left of Topo and Carla. 581 00:29:23,260 --> 00:29:25,763 And unfortunately the route goes right under it. 582 00:29:26,950 --> 00:29:28,270 Mountain's felt pretty safe 583 00:29:28,270 --> 00:29:31,683 until getting a view of that thing. 584 00:29:35,554 --> 00:29:38,190 But right now, luckily we don't have to make 585 00:29:38,190 --> 00:29:40,390 any decisions about that. 586 00:29:40,390 --> 00:29:44,070 What we gotta do is the last little stretch to Camp 4 587 00:29:44,070 --> 00:29:46,830 and then figure out (coughs) 588 00:29:46,830 --> 00:29:48,520 how we're gonna survive tonight 589 00:29:50,490 --> 00:29:54,653 and not freeze and not die of high-altitude sickness. 590 00:29:58,547 --> 00:29:59,380 - [Adrian] We made it! 591 00:29:59,380 --> 00:30:00,503 We did it Carla! 592 00:30:01,424 --> 00:30:02,603 Camp 4! 593 00:30:03,475 --> 00:30:06,308 (both exclaiming) 594 00:30:08,433 --> 00:30:10,293 Yeah! 595 00:30:11,520 --> 00:30:12,900 - [Narrator] As the team hunkered down 596 00:30:12,900 --> 00:30:16,310 for the night at Camp 4, dozens of commercial teams 597 00:30:16,310 --> 00:30:19,960 from all over the world began their bids for the summit. 598 00:30:19,960 --> 00:30:22,580 Although the weather conditions were still ideal, 599 00:30:22,580 --> 00:30:26,140 every team encountered the same insurmountable obstacles 600 00:30:26,140 --> 00:30:27,373 on their summit push. 601 00:30:30,620 --> 00:30:32,250 - [Adrian] Well, I pretty much knew that last night 602 00:30:32,250 --> 00:30:35,843 would be the hardest night of the season. 603 00:30:37,200 --> 00:30:40,250 At least for me, and it lived up to its reputation. 604 00:30:40,250 --> 00:30:45,250 Sleeping at 25,500 feet when we'd only slept at 22,5 605 00:30:45,470 --> 00:30:49,010 before this because of the way the safe camp sites are. 606 00:30:49,010 --> 00:30:50,660 It sucked. 607 00:30:50,660 --> 00:30:51,840 Super cold. 608 00:30:51,840 --> 00:30:53,180 Got a headache. 609 00:30:53,180 --> 00:30:54,840 Couldn't sleep. 610 00:30:54,840 --> 00:30:58,040 And meantime, all of the climbers who tried to go 611 00:30:58,040 --> 00:30:58,873 to the summit last night, 612 00:30:58,873 --> 00:31:01,443 from what we can tell all failed. 613 00:31:02,410 --> 00:31:05,090 There were lots of reports of two meter deep 614 00:31:05,090 --> 00:31:06,550 unconsolidated snow. 615 00:31:06,550 --> 00:31:10,380 There were three or four reports of different avalanches 616 00:31:10,380 --> 00:31:13,270 taking different Sherpa and team members out. 617 00:31:13,270 --> 00:31:16,170 No one killed but it's hard to know exactly 618 00:31:16,170 --> 00:31:17,530 what those avalanches look like. 619 00:31:17,530 --> 00:31:18,890 But it's still not good. 620 00:31:18,890 --> 00:31:23,370 So I don't really wanna be on a 40 degree avalanche slope 621 00:31:23,370 --> 00:31:26,620 with no protection at 27,000 feet 622 00:31:26,620 --> 00:31:28,350 while climbing without oxygen. 623 00:31:28,350 --> 00:31:31,200 Those are not the margins of safety that I'm looking for. 624 00:31:32,400 --> 00:31:34,080 - [Carla] These kind of conditions 625 00:31:34,080 --> 00:31:36,750 doesn't change from one day to another. 626 00:31:36,750 --> 00:31:40,150 Even in a week because it's super high 627 00:31:40,150 --> 00:31:43,060 and there's a lot of snow and the weather 628 00:31:43,060 --> 00:31:45,350 will be the same for one week. 629 00:31:45,350 --> 00:31:48,170 So probably in our summit push 630 00:31:48,170 --> 00:31:50,070 we will find the same conditions. 631 00:31:50,070 --> 00:31:53,393 But, yeah, we are here to enjoy, to learn and-- 632 00:31:53,393 --> 00:31:54,490 - Are you enjoying right now? 633 00:31:54,490 --> 00:31:59,102 - Yeah and to celebrate the 100th anniversary 634 00:31:59,102 --> 00:32:00,753 of Eddie Bauer. 635 00:32:00,753 --> 00:32:02,614 And the anniversary of your first attempt. 636 00:32:02,614 --> 00:32:04,190 - Oh you're so good. 637 00:32:04,190 --> 00:32:07,050 - So yeah, we will try to celebrate in the best way, 638 00:32:07,050 --> 00:32:08,243 but in the safe way. 639 00:32:09,113 --> 00:32:12,640 Yeah I'm super happy and grateful to be here 640 00:32:12,640 --> 00:32:16,090 with Adrian Ballinger and Topo Mena. 641 00:32:16,090 --> 00:32:17,403 The best teammates. 642 00:32:18,469 --> 00:32:21,080 - We are definitely the only team 643 00:32:21,080 --> 00:32:24,100 on the mountain that acclimatized by sleeping at Camp 4 644 00:32:24,100 --> 00:32:28,340 and I am so confident it's the right thing, 645 00:32:28,340 --> 00:32:30,263 but man it hurts. 646 00:32:34,020 --> 00:32:35,750 - [Narrator] Having survived the brutal conditions 647 00:32:35,750 --> 00:32:38,880 of Camp 4, Adrian, Carla and Topo 648 00:32:38,880 --> 00:32:41,730 returned to a base camp in chaos. 649 00:32:41,730 --> 00:32:44,590 Failing even to break trail en route to the summit, 650 00:32:44,590 --> 00:32:46,650 most of the remaining commercial teams 651 00:32:46,650 --> 00:32:49,850 felt that success was no longer possible. 652 00:32:49,850 --> 00:32:51,110 Over the next two days, 653 00:32:51,110 --> 00:32:53,963 the majority of them would pack up and go home. 654 00:32:55,440 --> 00:32:58,620 K2 base camp, with over 150 tents 655 00:32:58,620 --> 00:33:02,010 spread out over a half a kilometer of rock-covered glacier, 656 00:33:02,010 --> 00:33:04,863 went from this to this. 657 00:33:06,910 --> 00:33:08,280 With their confidence shattered 658 00:33:08,280 --> 00:33:09,650 and the obstacle in front of them 659 00:33:09,650 --> 00:33:11,950 seemingly too big to overcome, 660 00:33:11,950 --> 00:33:14,110 the team had a decision to make. 661 00:33:14,110 --> 00:33:15,320 They could pack up and leave 662 00:33:15,320 --> 00:33:16,980 with the rest of the climbers 663 00:33:16,980 --> 00:33:19,943 or they could stay and hope for a miracle. 664 00:33:22,380 --> 00:33:24,260 - [Adrian] I sort of came into the season 665 00:33:24,260 --> 00:33:27,350 knowing that it was gonna be hard and dangerous 666 00:33:27,350 --> 00:33:29,520 and having heard countless stories 667 00:33:29,520 --> 00:33:33,030 about the Karakoram and having lost friends here 668 00:33:33,030 --> 00:33:34,670 that I know were super experienced 669 00:33:34,670 --> 00:33:38,730 and super talented climbers on K2 and on the mountains. 670 00:33:38,730 --> 00:33:40,820 All along I've kinda told myself 671 00:33:40,820 --> 00:33:43,630 that failure's okay and that we all fail 672 00:33:43,630 --> 00:33:44,770 and that we just keep taking 673 00:33:44,770 --> 00:33:46,500 these small steps toward success 674 00:33:46,500 --> 00:33:49,210 and hopefully it comes and even when it doesn't 675 00:33:49,210 --> 00:33:51,410 the experiences are really, really powerful. 676 00:33:53,000 --> 00:33:54,810 - [Narrator] Their plan was to rest and recover 677 00:33:54,810 --> 00:33:56,850 for an entire week so that they would be 678 00:33:56,850 --> 00:33:59,630 as strong as possible for their summit attempt. 679 00:33:59,630 --> 00:34:03,480 But after only one day of rest, on the 20th of July, 680 00:34:03,480 --> 00:34:06,593 the team received another piece of disheartening news. 681 00:34:07,660 --> 00:34:09,850 The professional Swiss meteorologists 682 00:34:09,850 --> 00:34:10,989 that the team had hired 683 00:34:10,989 --> 00:34:13,289 to monitor the ever-changing weather patterns 684 00:34:13,290 --> 00:34:16,750 in the Karakoram, sent them this weather model. 685 00:34:16,750 --> 00:34:19,820 The white areas represent clear skies and sun, 686 00:34:19,820 --> 00:34:21,139 while the green represents 687 00:34:21,139 --> 00:34:24,799 snow and massive showstopper storms. 688 00:34:24,800 --> 00:34:27,290 If Adrian and Carla wanted to summit K2, 689 00:34:27,290 --> 00:34:30,000 they had only a four day window 690 00:34:30,000 --> 00:34:31,873 before their season was over. 691 00:34:37,409 --> 00:34:41,559 On July 21st, Carla and Topo made their way to Camp 2 692 00:34:41,560 --> 00:34:44,570 while Adrian stayed behind for one more day of rest, 693 00:34:44,570 --> 00:34:46,703 rehydration, and hot meals. 694 00:34:48,600 --> 00:34:52,750 At 3:00 a.m. on July 22nd, he, Palden and Pemba 695 00:34:52,750 --> 00:34:54,840 made their way out of base camp 696 00:34:54,840 --> 00:34:58,820 and covered 6500 vertical feet, where he would meet up 697 00:34:58,820 --> 00:35:01,463 with Carla and Topo at Camp 3. 698 00:35:02,770 --> 00:35:07,700 During this ascent at 5:30 a.m. Adrian got a glimpse 699 00:35:07,700 --> 00:35:10,940 of a very troubling sight high on the mountain. 700 00:35:10,940 --> 00:35:13,200 - [Adrian] Looking up at the mountain, 701 00:35:13,200 --> 00:35:16,560 we're seeing a lot more wind up the ridge 702 00:35:16,560 --> 00:35:19,450 than the forecast predicted. 703 00:35:19,450 --> 00:35:21,980 Kinda matching the most negative model 704 00:35:21,980 --> 00:35:24,230 instead of the most positive model 705 00:35:24,230 --> 00:35:29,230 and we need no wind for no oxygen climbing up high. 706 00:35:29,610 --> 00:35:34,610 So it's fine for today but hopefully it changes for tomorrow 707 00:35:35,130 --> 00:35:39,223 or the next day, otherwise, it's not gonna work. 708 00:35:40,890 --> 00:35:41,820 - [Narrator] It was the first time 709 00:35:41,820 --> 00:35:43,930 they had seen wind all season. 710 00:35:43,930 --> 00:35:46,930 As the team reached Camp 3, they had no idea 711 00:35:46,930 --> 00:35:49,130 whether or not the 100 mile an hour winds 712 00:35:49,130 --> 00:35:50,990 that had hammered the top of the mountain 713 00:35:50,990 --> 00:35:53,643 had made it more or less dangerous up high. 714 00:35:56,130 --> 00:35:57,970 The only thing they knew for certain 715 00:35:57,970 --> 00:36:00,033 was that the conditions had changed. 716 00:36:01,450 --> 00:36:03,210 They wouldn't know exactly how much 717 00:36:03,210 --> 00:36:05,193 until they began their summit push. 718 00:36:06,660 --> 00:36:07,980 - You can tell I'm hypoxic, 719 00:36:07,980 --> 00:36:09,430 I can't think of what to say. 720 00:36:10,500 --> 00:36:15,343 But pretty perfect night still hopefully. 721 00:36:16,350 --> 00:36:19,123 We've got one hour until we start walking. 722 00:36:20,998 --> 00:36:25,540 And I'm just hoping that slope up there is friendly. 723 00:36:25,540 --> 00:36:27,600 'Cause the weather's good 724 00:36:27,600 --> 00:36:31,120 and we've worked hard for this. 725 00:36:31,120 --> 00:36:32,333 Now we want a shot. 726 00:36:34,050 --> 00:36:35,993 So here we go, 11:30 at night. 727 00:36:37,550 --> 00:36:40,773 Palden's ready, Pemba's ready. 728 00:36:42,520 --> 00:36:47,520 Carla's oh so ready, Topo is closing up the tent. 729 00:36:48,180 --> 00:36:50,128 Time to go try hard. 730 00:36:50,128 --> 00:36:53,461 (wind rustling in mics) 731 00:36:56,778 --> 00:37:00,770 Wind has definitely had its way with this slope. 732 00:37:00,770 --> 00:37:04,851 Basically, hanging out on a hard slab. 733 00:37:04,851 --> 00:37:07,351 (tense music) 734 00:37:12,377 --> 00:37:13,960 (groans) 735 00:37:13,960 --> 00:37:15,193 That section hurt a lot. 736 00:37:16,309 --> 00:37:18,476 (panting) 737 00:37:20,820 --> 00:37:21,653 It's steep. 738 00:37:22,606 --> 00:37:24,103 I was afraid of avalanches. 739 00:37:26,810 --> 00:37:29,410 I'm afraid the wind might have frostbitten my cornea 740 00:37:29,410 --> 00:37:31,784 so I can't see out of one eye. 741 00:37:31,784 --> 00:37:32,617 - [Topo] Oh! 742 00:37:32,617 --> 00:37:35,284 - Other than that, it's awesome! 743 00:38:03,351 --> 00:38:05,518 (mutters) 744 00:38:07,720 --> 00:38:12,028 We're now above 8300 meters, 27,000 feet. 745 00:38:12,028 --> 00:38:14,770 The slope that stopped everyone last week, 746 00:38:14,770 --> 00:38:17,780 sure enough has been wind hammered. 747 00:38:17,780 --> 00:38:19,513 Lots of ice showing now. 748 00:38:20,500 --> 00:38:25,050 It's got plenty of exposure to icefall still, 749 00:38:25,050 --> 00:38:29,823 but it's feeling pretty darn okay. 750 00:38:31,000 --> 00:38:33,450 Stripped off down suits, sit on on 751 00:38:34,542 --> 00:38:37,123 and we're moving on up! 752 00:38:42,823 --> 00:38:47,740 Palden and I just topped out (coughs) 753 00:38:49,500 --> 00:38:51,093 under the bottleneck serac. 754 00:38:52,300 --> 00:38:55,613 Five hours under this fucking thing. 755 00:38:57,704 --> 00:39:01,621 (speaking in foreign language) 756 00:39:04,363 --> 00:39:05,196 Oh! 757 00:39:06,245 --> 00:39:07,539 Fuck. 758 00:39:07,539 --> 00:39:11,622 Definitely had to suspend belief for a few hours. 759 00:39:16,041 --> 00:39:17,297 There's Topo coming off. 760 00:39:20,556 --> 00:39:22,177 Palden's just around the corner. 761 00:39:27,927 --> 00:39:30,427 That was full on, scary, hard. 762 00:39:35,386 --> 00:39:36,930 We're gonna try to get around to a safe spot 763 00:39:36,930 --> 00:39:40,100 around the corner and re-access. 764 00:39:40,100 --> 00:39:44,523 Think I'm six hours in so far and it hurts. 765 00:40:00,983 --> 00:40:02,960 (thoughtful music) 766 00:40:02,960 --> 00:40:05,443 We just finished the last steep slope on K2. 767 00:40:09,016 --> 00:40:10,566 We still have a long way to go. 768 00:40:12,807 --> 00:40:15,175 I'm totally emotional. 769 00:40:15,175 --> 00:40:16,943 (man on radio speaks in foreign language) 770 00:40:16,943 --> 00:40:18,962 I just can't believe it. 771 00:40:18,962 --> 00:40:21,000 We're at over 8,400 meters. 772 00:40:21,880 --> 00:40:22,813 Perfect day. 773 00:40:23,880 --> 00:40:26,100 Only seven of us up here. 774 00:40:26,100 --> 00:40:28,480 It's feeling awful good. 775 00:40:28,480 --> 00:40:29,900 Still a lot of work to go. 776 00:40:29,900 --> 00:40:31,450 A couple of hours to the summit 777 00:40:33,660 --> 00:40:35,930 and then we gotta get down safe, 778 00:40:35,930 --> 00:40:37,730 but it's a special moment right now. 779 00:40:44,780 --> 00:40:46,480 - [Topo] Hey team, can you see us? 780 00:40:54,560 --> 00:40:57,000 We got to the end of the rope. 781 00:40:57,000 --> 00:40:58,700 Which means that we should be 782 00:40:58,700 --> 00:41:01,530 30 meters away from the summit. 783 00:41:01,530 --> 00:41:03,941 30 meters in distance. 784 00:41:03,941 --> 00:41:05,320 We are almost there guys. 785 00:41:44,666 --> 00:41:46,492 - Trying not to cry. 786 00:41:46,492 --> 00:41:47,925 (laughs) 787 00:41:47,925 --> 00:41:50,030 I can't believe it! 788 00:41:50,030 --> 00:41:51,824 We're on the summit of the second tallest mountain 789 00:41:51,824 --> 00:41:52,929 in the world. 790 00:41:52,929 --> 00:41:55,923 8,611 meters, K2. 791 00:41:57,654 --> 00:41:59,333 It's unbelievable that everything worked out 792 00:41:59,333 --> 00:42:01,970 with all of the setbacks. 793 00:42:01,970 --> 00:42:05,129 My sickness, then Carla's stomach sickness 794 00:42:05,129 --> 00:42:07,607 and then a really dangerous avalanche slope 795 00:42:07,607 --> 00:42:12,607 and all the huge seracs and 95% of people went home. 796 00:42:13,380 --> 00:42:15,430 And now we're on top. 797 00:42:15,430 --> 00:42:17,407 Alone on this perfect summit day. 798 00:42:18,700 --> 00:42:21,033 I'm just so honored. 799 00:42:22,010 --> 00:42:24,260 Thank you Eddie Bauer. 800 00:42:24,260 --> 00:42:28,410 1953 expedition, Eddie Bauer expedition to K2, 801 00:42:28,410 --> 00:42:30,050 inspired this trip. 802 00:42:30,050 --> 00:42:33,790 And now we're all on top, 100% success. 803 00:42:33,790 --> 00:42:37,920 And we're gonna get down safe and we're gonna celebrate. 804 00:42:41,440 --> 00:42:44,943 - I'm super excited to be on the summit of K2! 805 00:42:46,435 --> 00:42:47,485 No ox! 806 00:42:47,485 --> 00:42:50,083 (coughs) 807 00:42:50,083 --> 00:42:51,547 It was hard. 808 00:42:51,547 --> 00:42:56,450 We are here celebrating 100 years 809 00:42:56,450 --> 00:43:00,980 that Eddie Bauer's start to make all these down, 810 00:43:02,490 --> 00:43:07,490 crazy jackets that protect us for this cold. 811 00:43:08,769 --> 00:43:09,680 Mwah. 812 00:43:09,680 --> 00:43:12,650 Thank you so much for trusting me, 813 00:43:12,650 --> 00:43:17,650 for help me and let's celebrate in base camp! 814 00:43:18,524 --> 00:43:21,274 (dramatic music) 815 00:43:45,554 --> 00:43:48,471 (thoughtful music) 816 00:44:59,051 --> 00:45:01,801 (dramatic music) 59845

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