All language subtitles for Distance-Between-Dreams_English-ELSUBTITLE.COM-6121206

af Afrikaans
sq Albanian
am Amharic
ar Arabic
hy Armenian
az Azerbaijani
eu Basque
be Belarusian
bn Bengali
bs Bosnian
bg Bulgarian
ca Catalan
ceb Cebuano
ny Chichewa
zh-CN Chinese (Simplified)
zh-TW Chinese (Traditional)
co Corsican
hr Croatian
cs Czech
da Danish
nl Dutch
en English
eo Esperanto
et Estonian
tl Filipino
fi Finnish
fr French
fy Frisian
gl Galician
ka Georgian
de German
el Greek
gu Gujarati
ht Haitian Creole
ha Hausa
haw Hawaiian
iw Hebrew
hi Hindi
hmn Hmong
hu Hungarian
is Icelandic
ig Igbo
id Indonesian
ga Irish
it Italian
ja Japanese
jw Javanese
kn Kannada
kk Kazakh
km Khmer
ko Korean
ku Kurdish (Kurmanji)
ky Kyrgyz
lo Lao
la Latin
lv Latvian
lt Lithuanian
lb Luxembourgish
mk Macedonian
mg Malagasy
ms Malay
ml Malayalam
mt Maltese
mi Maori
mr Marathi
mn Mongolian
my Myanmar (Burmese)
ne Nepali
no Norwegian
ps Pashto
fa Persian
pl Polish
pt Portuguese
pa Punjabi
ro Romanian
ru Russian
sm Samoan
gd Scots Gaelic
sr Serbian
st Sesotho
sn Shona
sd Sindhi
si Sinhala
sk Slovak
sl Slovenian
so Somali
es Spanish Download
su Sundanese
sw Swahili
sv Swedish
tg Tajik
ta Tamil
te Telugu
th Thai
tr Turkish
uk Ukrainian
ur Urdu
uz Uzbek
vi Vietnamese
cy Welsh
xh Xhosa
yi Yiddish
yo Yoruba
zu Zulu
or Odia (Oriya)
rw Kinyarwanda
tk Turkmen
tt Tatar
ug Uyghur
Would you like to inspect the original subtitles? These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:19,560 --> 00:00:25,320 SOUTH PACIFIC 2 00:00:59,600 --> 00:01:02,920 In this time and age, you need to go a little beyond 3 00:01:03,120 --> 00:01:05,880 or at least want to take some more steps 4 00:01:06,000 --> 00:01:08,250 that any other person is willing to give. 5 00:01:09,251 --> 00:01:13,251 Subpack and sync by DanDee 6 00:02:15,680 --> 00:02:17,040 Walsh won the Xcel Pro 7 00:02:35,840 --> 00:02:37,290 Surfer THE 100 BEST WAVES 8 00:02:42,920 --> 00:02:44,220 THE END OF THE MACHINE 9 00:03:13,240 --> 00:03:14,540 That's it, boys. 10 00:03:15,800 --> 00:03:17,100 Long flight. 11 00:03:17,600 --> 00:03:19,280 A both relaxing. 12 00:03:19,960 --> 00:03:21,199 Take that tip. 13 00:03:21,200 --> 00:03:24,800 The middle that we get stuck in the weather and we missed the best day of high tide. 14 00:03:26,360 --> 00:03:28,800 It is part of what we do as surfers, 15 00:03:28,920 --> 00:03:30,760 you gets screwed. 16 00:03:31,520 --> 00:03:35,720 Nor in the whole trip that we do have surfing perfect, 17 00:03:35,800 --> 00:03:37,480 and always gives the right. 18 00:03:37,720 --> 00:03:39,111 It simply does not work like that. 19 00:03:41,800 --> 00:03:43,600 Now we are at the end of the summer, 20 00:03:43,680 --> 00:03:47,440 and now my focus is shifting to the northern hemisphere 21 00:03:47,560 --> 00:03:49,280 and preparation for Hawaii. 22 00:03:50,520 --> 00:03:51,479 When you predict an El Niño is strong, 23 00:03:51,480 --> 00:03:52,439 BROTHER 24 00:03:52,440 --> 00:03:53,359 BEACH HOOKIPA 25 00:03:53,360 --> 00:03:54,599 ...everyone is excited. 26 00:03:54,600 --> 00:03:57,520 The El Niño, it is basically as a time standard unusual. 27 00:03:57,600 --> 00:03:58,919 The Pacific Ocean is warmer than normal... 28 00:03:58,920 --> 00:03:59,799 SURFER 29 00:03:59,800 --> 00:04:01,640 ...and allows us to catch as many big waves. 30 00:04:02,440 --> 00:04:04,240 Really started to get serious 31 00:04:04,320 --> 00:04:06,400 when Ian sat down with me and Shaun one day 32 00:04:06,480 --> 00:04:08,039 and said: "Prepare, this can be the winter's most crazy of their lives." 33 00:04:08,040 --> 00:04:09,340 BROTHER 34 00:04:10,840 --> 00:04:13,520 The last El Niño was in 1998. 35 00:04:13,640 --> 00:04:15,120 It was a winter of incredible. 36 00:04:15,200 --> 00:04:16,159 JANUARY 1998 37 00:04:16,160 --> 00:04:18,160 There were many sessions of giant waves at Jaws. 38 00:04:18,800 --> 00:04:21,360 Surfing extreme, the extreme conditions, 39 00:04:21,440 --> 00:04:22,359 just day after day of perfection. 40 00:04:22,360 --> 00:04:23,799 DESIGNER BOARDS AND COACH 41 00:04:23,800 --> 00:04:26,280 Taylor Knox caught a wave in Mexico, 42 00:04:26,360 --> 00:04:28,200 that has stood the test of time. 43 00:04:30,320 --> 00:04:33,440 An El Niño really strong happens so rarely 44 00:04:33,600 --> 00:04:37,680 this is a great opportunity to see what is the limit, 45 00:04:38,000 --> 00:04:39,920 as far as the surf goes. 46 00:04:42,480 --> 00:04:43,839 I believe that if you will see the biggest waves being ridden... 47 00:04:43,840 --> 00:04:44,759 SURFER 48 00:04:44,760 --> 00:04:46,060 ...in the history of our sport. 49 00:04:48,680 --> 00:04:51,720 Jaws basically has the biggest wave in the world. 50 00:04:53,200 --> 00:04:54,720 And Ian lives just in front. 51 00:04:55,640 --> 00:04:58,000 So he is in a position very unusual. 52 00:05:01,600 --> 00:05:02,759 SURFER 53 00:05:02,760 --> 00:05:05,455 If Jaws is rolling, the world of surfing descends on your shoulders. 54 00:05:07,800 --> 00:05:10,480 Is prepared to welcome the waves of one to two meters, 55 00:05:10,560 --> 00:05:12,120 but are waves of 18 metres. 56 00:05:13,640 --> 00:05:15,840 And something that you can surfing, 57 00:05:15,920 --> 00:05:17,360 you know, you can paddle inside of it. 58 00:05:25,960 --> 00:05:27,880 The way that Ian and these guys are surfing, 59 00:05:28,480 --> 00:05:32,120 they are riding as if they were waves two meters. 60 00:05:36,640 --> 00:05:38,279 You have to laugh. It is something difficult to understand, you know? 61 00:05:38,280 --> 00:05:39,640 SURFER 62 00:05:42,240 --> 00:05:45,760 There is almost no other place that offers this intensity. 63 00:05:50,800 --> 00:05:54,400 A wave can drag the tens of meters under the water. 64 00:05:59,480 --> 00:06:00,919 With a violence that you can't 65 00:06:00,920 --> 00:06:02,640 control your arms, you chat, 66 00:06:02,840 --> 00:06:04,840 really think that is going to die. 67 00:06:11,480 --> 00:06:14,600 Fight and try to do strength 68 00:06:15,360 --> 00:06:18,800 can burn more oxygen than you can. 69 00:06:27,560 --> 00:06:29,280 It is a calculated risk that you assume, 70 00:06:29,360 --> 00:06:31,280 and you manages and minimizes the risks 71 00:06:31,480 --> 00:06:33,200 with your physical conditioning 72 00:06:33,760 --> 00:06:35,320 and with the mental preparation. 73 00:06:41,160 --> 00:06:42,460 325, Ian. 74 00:06:42,680 --> 00:06:44,600 A good ride, good work... 75 00:06:44,800 --> 00:06:46,100 and stop! 76 00:06:49,240 --> 00:06:50,540 Good test. 77 00:06:53,920 --> 00:06:55,920 Ian is one of our athletes more committed. 78 00:06:56,000 --> 00:06:58,240 In fact, in the entire curriculum 79 00:06:58,320 --> 00:07:00,239 he probably participated in more training our... 80 00:07:00,240 --> 00:07:01,359 COACH OF HIGH PERFORMANCE 81 00:07:01,360 --> 00:07:02,960 ...than any other that I can remember. 82 00:07:04,920 --> 00:07:07,440 You will of things that are good practices, which we call 83 00:07:07,640 --> 00:07:08,639 tactical training. 84 00:07:08,640 --> 00:07:10,560 All of these things, you can see 85 00:07:10,760 --> 00:07:12,480 directly the relationship with surfing better. 86 00:07:12,960 --> 00:07:16,400 The interesting thing is that Ian has also been a pioneer in the limits. 87 00:07:16,480 --> 00:07:19,200 He participated in training projects where the challenge, 88 00:07:19,400 --> 00:07:20,760 and in this environment, 89 00:07:20,840 --> 00:07:23,119 I think that we see the evolution in training for big waves, 90 00:07:23,120 --> 00:07:25,480 this idea of triumph under pressure. 91 00:07:25,560 --> 00:07:28,160 Fifteen seconds. You want to go to the next stage. Let's go! 92 00:07:31,720 --> 00:07:34,600 <-O->-Managed to, succeeded! Let's go! <-O->-Good job, friend. 93 00:07:34,680 --> 00:07:36,560 He rehearses his techniques 94 00:07:36,640 --> 00:07:39,160 in the sense of making the right decision at the right time, 95 00:07:39,240 --> 00:07:40,848 when the parameters are high. 96 00:07:43,960 --> 00:07:46,280 If they are caught up by a wave of 20 meters, 97 00:07:46,360 --> 00:07:48,159 need to have all the skills and techniques 98 00:07:48,160 --> 00:07:49,159 DIVING COACH FREE 99 00:07:49,160 --> 00:07:52,440 to hold breath in an emergency that may last a minute, 100 00:07:55,160 --> 00:07:56,880 and need to do this again and again, 101 00:07:56,960 --> 00:07:59,880 with intervals of only 15 seconds. 102 00:08:01,640 --> 00:08:03,160 Your shark violent. 103 00:08:04,880 --> 00:08:07,080 The effort by which we do spend is equivalent 104 00:08:07,160 --> 00:08:10,400 when any group of highly-trained, with which we already work. 105 00:08:11,400 --> 00:08:13,680 Only by knowing that I'm giving the most of me 106 00:08:13,760 --> 00:08:16,480 to stay as comfortable as possible 107 00:08:16,560 --> 00:08:19,960 in the environment less comfortable than I can imagine. 108 00:08:21,000 --> 00:08:23,360 He is doing dives of 50 meters, 109 00:08:23,560 --> 00:08:25,800 apneas of almost five minutes. 110 00:08:27,680 --> 00:08:30,600 Need to be prepared to the maximum level, 111 00:08:30,720 --> 00:08:32,280 otherwise, you will end up finding, 112 00:08:32,480 --> 00:08:35,160 the one wave that cannot support. 113 00:08:38,000 --> 00:08:39,039 DECEMBER 2012 114 00:08:39,040 --> 00:08:40,639 CUTS BANK 180 KM WEST OF SAN DIEGO 115 00:08:40,640 --> 00:08:42,120 By own experience, 116 00:08:42,760 --> 00:08:44,800 DK has saved my life, without a doubt. 117 00:08:46,160 --> 00:08:48,320 I afoguei in cut Bank. 118 00:08:54,400 --> 00:08:55,700 The ambulance is on the way. 119 00:09:02,360 --> 00:09:03,660 What happened? 120 00:09:04,520 --> 00:09:06,960 You have been pulled down, and simply became... 121 00:09:08,080 --> 00:09:10,949 The board you hit on the head, in the belly or in some other place? 122 00:09:11,160 --> 00:09:13,400 If it were not for the DK to be there... 123 00:09:14,160 --> 00:09:15,319 DESIGNER OF SURFBOARDS 124 00:09:15,320 --> 00:09:17,580 ...you know, he is the big reason Greg still be alive. 125 00:09:20,360 --> 00:09:21,660 If it weren't for him, 126 00:09:21,680 --> 00:09:23,245 heroically, abandoning the jet ski 127 00:09:23,360 --> 00:09:25,080 hundreds of miles away, in the middle of the sea, 128 00:09:25,160 --> 00:09:26,760 to pick up my lifeless body, 129 00:09:26,840 --> 00:09:30,800 and then gave me a hug and crossing two or three large waves... 130 00:09:31,400 --> 00:09:34,720 You will not find any other rescue team in the world. 131 00:09:36,200 --> 00:09:37,920 To save the life of someone, especially 132 00:09:38,120 --> 00:09:39,840 for someone like him, so near, 133 00:09:39,920 --> 00:09:43,240 really motivated me to do what we do today. 134 00:09:45,360 --> 00:09:47,319 I and my brothers, we are all a little more new 135 00:09:47,320 --> 00:09:49,920 but at home, we moved, taking care of one another. 136 00:09:50,320 --> 00:09:52,640 And this is only because of Ian and his brothers. 137 00:09:53,840 --> 00:09:56,040 We used to call them "squirrels". 138 00:09:56,360 --> 00:09:59,080 Ian was the knight and they and their little helpers... 139 00:09:59,240 --> 00:10:00,239 FATHER 140 00:10:00,240 --> 00:10:01,540 ...and it was very good. 141 00:10:02,840 --> 00:10:05,560 If Shaun and DK are there, the twins, he is as well. 142 00:10:05,640 --> 00:10:07,726 Type they take, no matter what happens. 143 00:10:07,960 --> 00:10:08,839 MOTHER 144 00:10:08,840 --> 00:10:10,079 Makes things easier. 145 00:10:10,080 --> 00:10:12,280 It is never easy, but makes it a bit. 146 00:10:17,160 --> 00:10:20,600 That combination of crazy, the four brothers. 147 00:10:20,840 --> 00:10:22,160 They are a team. 148 00:10:23,080 --> 00:10:25,640 He is the older brother, all following in the steps of him. 149 00:10:25,720 --> 00:10:27,020 If he were a degenerate, 150 00:10:27,040 --> 00:10:28,039 BROTHER 151 00:10:28,040 --> 00:10:29,919 we probably would have followed that path, 152 00:10:29,920 --> 00:10:32,840 but he was an exemplary student in the college. 153 00:10:35,480 --> 00:10:38,800 My love and passion for big waves 154 00:10:39,160 --> 00:10:41,840 would not be the same without my brothers. 155 00:10:42,360 --> 00:10:43,660 Simply would not work. 156 00:10:48,120 --> 00:10:50,440 It seemed that even before the winter begins, 157 00:10:50,520 --> 00:10:52,160 he was working hard. 158 00:10:55,520 --> 00:10:57,606 He kind of knew that there was anticipation there, 159 00:10:57,680 --> 00:10:59,640 since the El Niño was drawing 160 00:10:59,720 --> 00:11:01,285 and the weather was beginning to be established. 161 00:11:01,400 --> 00:11:05,040 He is one of the few elite athletes in our sport. 162 00:11:05,960 --> 00:11:08,920 And the twins, they kind of have a different aspect. 163 00:11:09,160 --> 00:11:12,680 They are like your own natural training, I would say so. 164 00:11:14,120 --> 00:11:15,728 Is really connect with yourself 165 00:11:15,800 --> 00:11:18,720 and if you keep physically active, no matter what I do. 166 00:11:23,120 --> 00:11:26,360 In addition to all the science and the community by supporting 167 00:11:26,440 --> 00:11:28,483 and trying to help you improve in big waves, 168 00:11:28,760 --> 00:11:32,520 I think it is simply important that it surfing, for the sake of surfing. 169 00:11:34,600 --> 00:11:37,880 There is no competition, the waves are as big as can be... 170 00:11:38,880 --> 00:11:41,000 connect with your friends and enjoy, 171 00:11:41,120 --> 00:11:43,840 and this is an important part of this program. 172 00:11:48,480 --> 00:11:50,088 My favorite type of surfer is the guy 173 00:11:50,240 --> 00:11:51,960 that you can have fun with everything. 174 00:11:52,120 --> 00:11:54,160 If the wave is a metre or 25, 175 00:11:54,240 --> 00:11:56,480 he will still be able to go out there and have fun. 176 00:11:56,760 --> 00:11:59,803 Guys like Ian are the guys in which really breathe, so. 177 00:16:53,760 --> 00:16:56,960 Basically, at each high tide, you have a decision to make, 178 00:16:57,040 --> 00:17:00,080 because there will be a competition with which you need to worry about 179 00:17:00,160 --> 00:17:04,400 or if you will be surfing the waves that you really want, that is the big bid. 180 00:17:06,320 --> 00:17:07,620 When you go from? 181 00:17:07,680 --> 00:17:10,880 I leave tomorrow night, probably, to Oahu, 182 00:17:10,960 --> 00:17:12,260 for the competition. 183 00:17:12,720 --> 00:17:16,200 I would like to go to Jaws, only to desenferrujar. 184 00:17:17,160 --> 00:17:18,920 How do you give account of everything here? 185 00:17:19,000 --> 00:17:19,959 It is so much. 186 00:17:19,960 --> 00:17:22,360 What do you mean? You have two children. 187 00:17:22,640 --> 00:17:25,422 Yes, children will be easy after dealing with all these things. 188 00:17:26,480 --> 00:17:28,960 I competed on the world circuit for about 11 years. 189 00:17:29,280 --> 00:17:31,840 When I was stopping, Ian was just beginning, 190 00:17:31,960 --> 00:17:33,680 trying to qualify for the circuit. 191 00:17:33,960 --> 00:17:35,920 And I said, "man, there is no one of his age 192 00:17:36,000 --> 00:17:37,920 that is behind the bid for the big wave". 193 00:17:38,160 --> 00:17:39,480 So, I went up to Ian and said: 194 00:17:39,560 --> 00:17:41,999 "Let us become partners who surf big waves together." 195 00:17:42,000 --> 00:17:43,300 NOVEMBER 2007 196 00:17:43,400 --> 00:17:44,840 I think he made the right choice 197 00:17:44,920 --> 00:17:48,200 in surfing very large waves and still be competitive 198 00:17:48,280 --> 00:17:49,580 in the event, and everything in between. 199 00:17:51,600 --> 00:17:52,900 Any wave there? 200 00:17:53,680 --> 00:17:55,000 It's very windy. 201 00:17:55,440 --> 00:17:57,920 Guy, is very irregular. 202 00:17:58,000 --> 00:17:59,720 See how big is the second wave. 203 00:17:59,800 --> 00:18:03,480 It would be difficult to maintain the position, with all of this turmoil. 204 00:18:03,960 --> 00:18:06,000 The tide was kind of weak and strange, 205 00:18:06,200 --> 00:18:07,634 the wind was totally wrong. 206 00:18:08,000 --> 00:18:09,300 What you want to do? 207 00:18:09,320 --> 00:18:10,620 I think I'm going to give out. 208 00:18:11,040 --> 00:18:13,680 I'm going to stop at Kuau, pick things up and I'm going. 209 00:18:13,760 --> 00:18:15,060 We are far behind. 210 00:18:17,000 --> 00:18:18,119 Have fun in there. 211 00:18:18,120 --> 00:18:19,760 He decided to go to Honulua Bay, 212 00:18:19,840 --> 00:18:21,579 and I think he decided to hunt with arrows. 213 00:18:43,520 --> 00:18:47,200 Really complicates things when you try and do what Ian does. 214 00:18:48,640 --> 00:18:51,360 It really is focused on surfing giant waves in Jaws, 215 00:18:51,440 --> 00:18:53,880 and is really passionate about surfing in competitions. 216 00:18:54,040 --> 00:18:57,160 The waves are with a quarter of the size. 217 00:18:58,520 --> 00:19:00,399 Then they will not longer participate in the event? 218 00:19:00,400 --> 00:19:01,720 Is rolling well now. 219 00:19:02,640 --> 00:19:05,640 My battery has changed from the third day today, the second day, 220 00:19:05,720 --> 00:19:09,000 and it's become a total madness to be able to prepare everything 221 00:19:09,080 --> 00:19:11,160 and do the bags to go to Oahu. 222 00:19:11,520 --> 00:19:14,600 It is just insane, this entire season of competition. 223 00:19:14,720 --> 00:19:16,320 I try to help him whenever I can. 224 00:19:18,120 --> 00:19:22,480 He tries to balance the two things, which is no easy task. 225 00:19:26,360 --> 00:19:27,660 Just before my battery, 226 00:19:27,760 --> 00:19:29,559 I was warming up on some new planks. 227 00:19:29,560 --> 00:19:33,000 In the first wave, I went up to it and she literally broke down. 228 00:19:34,000 --> 00:19:36,217 I thought: "This is... This is really happening?" 229 00:19:36,920 --> 00:19:38,760 <-O->-In a wave. <-O->-In a wave, as well? 230 00:19:39,160 --> 00:19:41,280 I can only improve from this point. 231 00:19:44,080 --> 00:19:48,880 Welcome to the HIC Pro 2015, an event for$100,000. 232 00:19:48,960 --> 00:19:51,360 Ian Walsh, ten years ago, winning this event, 233 00:19:51,480 --> 00:19:53,760 and of course, the ex-finalist, 234 00:19:53,880 --> 00:19:57,040 going very well in the Vans Triple Crown of surfing, in the last year. 235 00:19:57,120 --> 00:19:59,946 If you know Ian, he is out there looking for the biggest wave in the world. 236 00:20:01,120 --> 00:20:04,560 Jack Robinson, 17 years of age, a phenomenon of Australia. 237 00:20:05,000 --> 00:20:07,600 It will be a wave of good score for Robo. 238 00:20:08,080 --> 00:20:10,840 Ian... we'll see. Red, Ian Walsh. 239 00:20:16,040 --> 00:20:19,520 Here we go. Jack Robinson in action, firing in the front. 240 00:20:20,000 --> 00:20:23,560 Jack Robinson, of white, in the first, Ian Walsh, in the second. 241 00:20:24,200 --> 00:20:26,400 He is trying to improve the 5.67. 242 00:20:26,640 --> 00:20:27,940 Beautiful wave. 243 00:20:29,720 --> 00:20:31,360 And sounds the alarm. 244 00:20:31,480 --> 00:20:33,960 Ian Walsh, surfing is excellent. 245 00:20:34,080 --> 00:20:35,960 He yanked the Robo in the first place. 246 00:20:37,640 --> 00:20:40,320 Testing the microphone. Yellow, leather. Red leather. 247 00:20:40,400 --> 00:20:41,760 Ian, pleasure to meet you. 248 00:20:42,960 --> 00:20:44,260 It is good to see more of Ian Walsh. 249 00:20:44,320 --> 00:20:45,624 <-O->-congratulations, Ian. <-O->-Thank You. 250 00:20:45,720 --> 00:20:48,806 I will give just a hi to the class of 4th year from my mother, who is watching, 251 00:20:48,840 --> 00:20:50,520 School Pukalani, in Maui. 252 00:20:50,800 --> 00:20:52,760 Hello, School Pukalani! 253 00:20:52,840 --> 00:20:54,600 Ian was as well. Uncle Ian detonated. 254 00:20:54,680 --> 00:20:55,799 With you, personal. 255 00:20:55,800 --> 00:20:57,100 <-O->-it Is good to see you. <-O->-Right. 256 00:20:58,560 --> 00:21:03,120 And here we are, 23 minutes left for two more surfers go to the end 257 00:21:03,200 --> 00:21:05,120 along with Kaito Kino, and Billy Kemper. 258 00:21:05,440 --> 00:21:07,840 It is a take-off in turbulent waters for Ian Walsh. 259 00:21:08,600 --> 00:21:12,000 Dictating the level up here for the semi-final number two. 260 00:21:12,640 --> 00:21:14,200 Robo surfing. 261 00:21:14,440 --> 00:21:16,200 Beautiful manoeuvre in the curve combined. 262 00:21:16,920 --> 00:21:18,440 Here we go, Ian Walsh. 263 00:21:19,040 --> 00:21:21,080 Is the famous Ian Walsh well there. 264 00:21:22,680 --> 00:21:24,680 Jack Robinson in the second wave. 265 00:21:27,760 --> 00:21:29,920 Well, this will solve the second semi-final. 266 00:21:30,000 --> 00:21:34,520 Ian Walsh and Jack Robinson, to advance, in first and second, to the end 267 00:21:34,600 --> 00:21:36,920 to face Billy Kemper and Kaito Kino. 268 00:21:37,680 --> 00:21:40,080 And we are on the way to the end. 269 00:21:40,920 --> 00:21:42,280 <-O->-Ian Walsh. <-O->-Ian Walsh. 270 00:21:42,360 --> 00:21:45,160 A beautiful exit, slips on the curve at the bottom and rises to the top. 271 00:21:45,280 --> 00:21:48,080 A curve aggressive, in the low back, the other face, 272 00:21:48,160 --> 00:21:50,320 a little more aggressive, the second facing. 273 00:21:50,680 --> 00:21:54,920 My goodness, you could not wish for a beginning better as a competitor. 274 00:21:59,040 --> 00:22:00,560 We have Billy coming out. 275 00:22:00,680 --> 00:22:02,280 Let's see the maneuvering of the closure. 276 00:22:04,320 --> 00:22:08,480 And right behind him, Ian Walsh, quickly reaching the one 9,93. 277 00:22:09,160 --> 00:22:11,760 With that relaxation, and it is in the lead. 278 00:22:14,480 --> 00:22:17,040 And this is simply a victory lap at this point. 279 00:22:17,200 --> 00:22:18,560 There are only a few people 280 00:22:18,640 --> 00:22:21,239 as good as it in small waves, especially on large, 281 00:22:21,240 --> 00:22:24,360 and the proof is his performance in Sunset Beach. 282 00:22:24,480 --> 00:22:26,199 Look for Ian Walsh, he is on fire. 283 00:22:26,200 --> 00:22:29,880 Billy Kemper, he was with 5.6 in this event... 284 00:22:30,200 --> 00:22:33,920 You is a, now, two times champion of the HIC Pro, 285 00:22:34,040 --> 00:22:36,640 2005 and now, in 2015, 286 00:22:36,760 --> 00:22:38,600 of Maui, Ian Walsh! 287 00:22:46,400 --> 00:22:49,040 Back on the bike soon after that. 288 00:22:58,280 --> 00:22:59,580 Right. 289 00:22:59,880 --> 00:23:01,180 The winter has arrived. 290 00:23:03,520 --> 00:23:04,799 That day. 291 00:23:04,800 --> 00:23:06,560 Drug, I'm so excited! 292 00:23:09,160 --> 00:23:12,080 It is so nice to win a tournament. 293 00:23:12,240 --> 00:23:14,920 My God, I'm so electric. 294 00:23:15,240 --> 00:23:19,600 But it is so good. So many times, I was so close to getting this. 295 00:23:27,720 --> 00:23:29,240 ...to Ian Walsh, 296 00:23:29,600 --> 00:23:31,560 and certainly for all children 297 00:23:31,760 --> 00:23:34,440 in the class of his mother, in the School Pukalani... 298 00:23:34,520 --> 00:23:35,820 EAST Airport Joint Base 299 00:23:41,240 --> 00:23:42,540 Box office 300 00:23:47,240 --> 00:23:49,160 Are 16: 30. 301 00:23:52,280 --> 00:23:54,480 Good job. Congratulations. 302 00:23:54,960 --> 00:23:56,079 I had fun. 303 00:23:56,080 --> 00:23:57,520 I'm so excited. 304 00:24:07,760 --> 00:24:09,060 Thanks, guys. 305 00:24:09,080 --> 00:24:11,880 Certainly would not have been possible without all of you, staff, 306 00:24:11,960 --> 00:24:13,239 we are all one big unit, 307 00:24:13,240 --> 00:24:15,920 so thank you, and enjoy yourselves this evening. 308 00:24:29,800 --> 00:24:31,440 I don't know about this year. 309 00:24:32,080 --> 00:24:34,949 Let's just pray that everything goes right, by the security of all, 310 00:24:35,120 --> 00:24:38,400 because all are eager to proceed. 311 00:24:40,240 --> 00:24:43,760 With the winter season with El Niño coming, 312 00:24:43,840 --> 00:24:47,880 there are guys who really believe and want to surf 313 00:24:48,000 --> 00:24:50,160 in waves of 25 meters around, 314 00:24:50,240 --> 00:24:53,560 and, the sky is the limit, you know, the size of the wave that you can surf, 315 00:24:54,240 --> 00:24:55,960 depends on the desire of each one. 316 00:24:56,920 --> 00:24:58,680 Always will progress. 317 00:24:58,800 --> 00:25:00,800 For me, to sit here and say: 318 00:25:01,000 --> 00:25:03,680 "No, in our generation, no one will surpass this," 319 00:25:03,920 --> 00:25:05,220 it is stupidity. 320 00:25:06,280 --> 00:25:07,519 On the right day 321 00:25:07,520 --> 00:25:09,319 with the right conditions, with the security team right. 322 00:25:09,320 --> 00:25:12,320 Likely to see anyone this year that would make it impossible. 323 00:25:14,200 --> 00:25:15,840 You can feel the tension in the air, 324 00:25:15,920 --> 00:25:19,400 but I can always tell how much they enjoy themselves. 325 00:25:19,600 --> 00:25:23,040 They prepare on the previous day, wake up in the dawn of the day... 326 00:25:24,600 --> 00:25:27,800 4 JANUARY 327 00:25:27,880 --> 00:25:30,720 Forecast: 3.7 m for a 16.7 seconds Front Height Estimated: 14,5 m 328 00:25:30,800 --> 00:25:33,840 The first high tide of the year at Jaws is always very exciting. 329 00:25:34,640 --> 00:25:37,422 All are a little nervous and excited to see each other. 330 00:25:37,520 --> 00:25:40,120 It has that energy in the air that you can't play. 331 00:25:40,640 --> 00:25:42,239 It is almost as if we were entering 332 00:25:42,240 --> 00:25:44,559 in a battle of the gladiators all the times that we go there, 333 00:25:44,560 --> 00:25:46,680 type, you do not know what will happen. 334 00:25:47,320 --> 00:25:48,319 WATER SAFETY 335 00:25:48,320 --> 00:25:49,799 I wasn't actually here this morning, 336 00:25:49,800 --> 00:25:53,080 then we slow down everything rather start at six o'clock, 337 00:25:53,160 --> 00:25:56,720 we decided to just go back with things 338 00:25:56,800 --> 00:26:00,160 and not in the cansarmos by staying out here, waiting for the waves. 339 00:26:01,360 --> 00:26:02,760 The winds will come, 340 00:26:02,840 --> 00:26:05,399 but there is no wind now, so the faster we get out of here 341 00:26:05,400 --> 00:26:06,700 the better it will be. 342 00:26:24,600 --> 00:26:28,480 The first thing that you really feel is the texture of the ocean. 343 00:26:29,040 --> 00:26:31,360 Then you feel if there is wind or if the sea is rough. 344 00:26:32,120 --> 00:26:34,880 There is a lot of refraction coming from the rocks. 345 00:26:35,800 --> 00:26:38,160 You feel the energy of the tide, 346 00:26:38,760 --> 00:26:41,720 and that is really when things go wrong on the day. 347 00:26:41,880 --> 00:26:44,280 Ian is paddling. Ian is starting. 348 00:26:55,600 --> 00:26:56,759 It was a difficult. 349 00:26:56,760 --> 00:26:58,240 It was very ingrime. 350 00:27:07,800 --> 00:27:09,360 Look out, here comes the sequence. 351 00:27:20,720 --> 00:27:22,640 Take the rope. Take the rope. 352 00:27:22,760 --> 00:27:24,060 Everything well? 353 00:27:26,200 --> 00:27:27,500 Right. Is the Greg. 354 00:27:32,480 --> 00:27:34,240 Is the Ian. 355 00:27:34,360 --> 00:27:35,920 Ian foot. 356 00:27:48,400 --> 00:27:50,480 I think I cut myself ugly. 357 00:27:50,680 --> 00:27:53,080 We are going back to the boat. Ian cut his finger. 358 00:27:53,200 --> 00:27:54,500 Prepare the boat. 359 00:27:55,080 --> 00:27:56,558 <-O->-do you Think that I can still surfing? <-O->-Yes. 360 00:27:57,280 --> 00:27:58,760 Just wrap. Sew after. 361 00:27:59,080 --> 00:28:01,000 I was with a small hiccup in the middle of the day. 362 00:28:01,080 --> 00:28:04,120 The back of the rudder cut off my finger, 363 00:28:04,200 --> 00:28:05,760 almost down to the bone. 364 00:28:05,880 --> 00:28:07,920 I made a dressing quickly and went back to the sea, 365 00:28:08,000 --> 00:28:10,640 and I got another wave of cool that was very unstable. 366 00:28:12,640 --> 00:28:14,205 I ended up giving a break to rest 367 00:28:14,320 --> 00:28:17,000 and the waves were strange soon after. 368 00:28:21,440 --> 00:28:24,309 That small dose of wind makes the difference between day and night. 369 00:28:24,320 --> 00:28:27,160 Not see anything and have salt water in the eyes... 370 00:28:29,880 --> 00:28:31,920 it's basically like if you jumped off of a bridge 371 00:28:32,000 --> 00:28:33,680 without knowing what there is down there. 372 00:28:37,520 --> 00:28:41,200 On a really good day at Jaws, you could go and just catch a wave 373 00:28:41,280 --> 00:28:43,400 in those seven, eight, nine hours. 374 00:28:46,040 --> 00:28:48,160 Finally we gathered the whole team, 375 00:28:48,240 --> 00:28:50,240 and I will have the finger sewn this evening 376 00:28:50,360 --> 00:28:53,920 I make sure that you do not tore any tendon or something like that. 377 00:28:54,680 --> 00:28:58,280 I think that was a day average today, but it was a good start. 378 00:28:59,200 --> 00:29:00,560 It is only the beginning. 379 00:29:02,840 --> 00:29:05,200 Stretch. Good. Close. 380 00:29:05,320 --> 00:29:06,279 Stretch. 381 00:29:06,280 --> 00:29:07,975 Good. Now lower your hand completely. 382 00:29:08,520 --> 00:29:10,680 If there is a competition, a tide epic, 383 00:29:10,760 --> 00:29:12,839 and you need to surfing tomorrow, I could protect you. 384 00:29:12,840 --> 00:29:15,440 It is best to stay out of the water for a few days. 385 00:29:15,560 --> 00:29:17,640 Yes, I'm aiming to day ten. 386 00:29:17,720 --> 00:29:20,480 <-O->-Right. -So, 6 days would be my goal. 387 00:29:25,400 --> 00:29:28,240 The entire history of surfing giant waves is very interesting. 388 00:29:28,640 --> 00:29:30,400 You know, these guys are the pioneers. 389 00:29:30,600 --> 00:29:33,440 They go there with no ropes and no safety equipment. 390 00:29:34,080 --> 00:29:38,680 There was always this idea that anything over ten metres 391 00:29:38,760 --> 00:29:41,280 starts to get very dangerous for surfing, 392 00:29:41,360 --> 00:29:43,480 this limit impossible size. 393 00:29:43,560 --> 00:29:46,880 And then there was the introduction of this type of surfing trailer. 394 00:29:47,080 --> 00:29:49,036 Basically, if you can climb up on a surfboard, 395 00:29:49,080 --> 00:29:50,775 could be placed in a large wave. 396 00:29:51,240 --> 00:29:54,400 You can use a ten or 15 waves of this type 397 00:29:54,480 --> 00:29:57,160 because you can position yourself much more. 398 00:29:57,600 --> 00:30:00,079 Has a machine that can travel 65 miles per hour, 399 00:30:00,080 --> 00:30:02,880 and if you have a wave of 15 meters in that direction, go there and take a. 400 00:30:05,400 --> 00:30:08,880 The guys not surfariam throughout the year, they would come pick up the 15 yards. 401 00:30:08,960 --> 00:30:10,280 It's insane. 402 00:30:11,840 --> 00:30:14,520 You take any common person to surfing paddling at Jaws, 403 00:30:14,920 --> 00:30:16,720 you will not be able to catch a wave, and catch, 404 00:30:16,800 --> 00:30:18,640 will be totally annihilated. 405 00:30:28,920 --> 00:30:34,000 The revolution of surfing trailer showed us that it was possible to survive 406 00:30:34,080 --> 00:30:36,440 the waves are much larger than previously imagined. 407 00:30:42,760 --> 00:30:44,760 The surf trailer helped establish 408 00:30:44,960 --> 00:30:47,640 the jet ski as a safety tool 409 00:30:47,720 --> 00:30:49,640 and for all that you do in the ocean. 410 00:30:51,320 --> 00:30:56,840 It was really the stepping stone to the next evolution of the wave surfing giant. 411 00:30:58,040 --> 00:31:00,680 I used to compete, paddling with the boards, 412 00:31:00,760 --> 00:31:03,000 and had the idea that I could do 413 00:31:03,200 --> 00:31:04,920 these boards are faster. 414 00:31:06,080 --> 00:31:10,480 It was when Ian, Greg and some other guys 415 00:31:10,600 --> 00:31:12,360 began to paddle these things. 416 00:31:14,320 --> 00:31:17,440 We make that conscious decision to stop with the surfing trailer 417 00:31:17,640 --> 00:31:19,120 and back rowing. 418 00:31:24,520 --> 00:31:27,520 All the speed with which the wave travels when it reaches 15 metres 419 00:31:27,600 --> 00:31:30,960 is too fast for the design of the surfboard pattern. Everything needs to change. 420 00:31:32,480 --> 00:31:34,088 They are ready? I'm not sure. 421 00:31:34,160 --> 00:31:36,840 No one has done this before, so nobody knows. 422 00:31:38,480 --> 00:31:41,640 Chris Christenson, he has the details 423 00:31:41,720 --> 00:31:44,560 that I think that no other designer of the board has. 424 00:31:45,280 --> 00:31:48,760 So, I think to find something that give us a little more 425 00:31:48,840 --> 00:31:50,480 and that every time that I give me wrong, 426 00:31:50,560 --> 00:31:53,120 it is because I came down the wave too fast. 427 00:31:53,200 --> 00:31:54,879 After every big tide that he surf, 428 00:31:54,880 --> 00:31:56,749 we talked with the other, just then. 429 00:31:56,800 --> 00:31:59,000 Have this rail more parallel at the top there 430 00:31:59,080 --> 00:32:01,340 it will allow the board to work better at the base of the wave, 431 00:32:01,360 --> 00:32:04,440 we'll allow you to paddle faster with the shoulders further apart 432 00:32:04,520 --> 00:32:07,560 and have a tail wider, give you more maneuverability. 433 00:32:10,680 --> 00:32:13,880 If they can trust me before they went in the water, 434 00:32:13,960 --> 00:32:16,240 this leaves them at an advantage in the game. 435 00:32:22,280 --> 00:32:24,720 10 JANUARY 436 00:32:26,160 --> 00:32:27,839 Forecast 3.9 m in 14,7 seconds Front Height Estimated: 13m 437 00:32:27,840 --> 00:32:29,480 The forecast looks very good, 438 00:32:29,600 --> 00:32:31,160 probably the best of the year. 439 00:32:31,280 --> 00:32:33,119 Do you think that is the size that Ian is looking for? 440 00:32:33,120 --> 00:32:35,800 No, Ian is searching for the largest possible. 441 00:32:37,600 --> 00:32:40,240 Simply... it seems that the tide is not yet here. 442 00:32:40,360 --> 00:32:43,560 I don't know, the markers simply are not evident. 443 00:32:44,000 --> 00:32:47,000 I think that simply let's start now and follow through with our plan 444 00:32:47,080 --> 00:32:48,380 and to go there at first light, 445 00:32:48,400 --> 00:32:50,520 hoping to improve throughout the morning. 446 00:32:57,240 --> 00:32:59,280 The best conditions until now. 447 00:33:02,560 --> 00:33:05,400 The fact of the forecast we have indicated the winds light 448 00:33:05,480 --> 00:33:08,640 aroused much more interest for surfers around the world. 449 00:33:21,320 --> 00:33:23,720 The concentration of people in the morning was more mild, 450 00:33:23,840 --> 00:33:26,760 so you could stand there and begin to align with the waves 451 00:33:26,840 --> 00:33:29,480 the way that you wanted, where you wanted to catch them. 452 00:33:39,000 --> 00:33:42,600 I think that the plank of a guy went well over the top of me at the end of the tube. 453 00:33:53,240 --> 00:33:55,400 And then, as more people arrive, 454 00:33:55,480 --> 00:33:57,320 the place that picks up the waves is dictated, 455 00:33:57,520 --> 00:33:59,240 based on where they're caught in the crowd. 456 00:34:01,960 --> 00:34:04,879 You know, when you are turning, trying to paddle for a wave of giant, 457 00:34:04,880 --> 00:34:06,880 and you have people to your left and to the right, 458 00:34:06,915 --> 00:34:08,039 if positioning, calling... 459 00:34:08,040 --> 00:34:10,439 The press is there. There are helicopters flying around everywhere, 460 00:34:10,440 --> 00:34:12,720 drones buzzing in his head, 461 00:34:12,800 --> 00:34:15,640 boats passing each other, it is simply a chaos. 462 00:34:17,400 --> 00:34:19,200 Surfed at Jaws for 15 years, 463 00:34:19,280 --> 00:34:21,760 and I'm not going there anymore because it's simply a zone crazy. 464 00:34:21,880 --> 00:34:23,400 It is not fun, it is very dangerous. 465 00:34:24,560 --> 00:34:27,255 The last thing I want to do is hurt someone with the board. 466 00:34:29,840 --> 00:34:31,960 It is when you commit errors. 467 00:34:32,040 --> 00:34:35,400 You know, you are surfing according to the crowd, not with what you want. 468 00:34:43,280 --> 00:34:46,360 When you have 50 people there, definitely not, I will, 469 00:34:46,440 --> 00:34:48,600 Ian, on the other hand, seems to do well. 470 00:35:41,360 --> 00:35:43,480 Let's take a second wave. 471 00:36:13,000 --> 00:36:17,040 Stay with my brother in the water in Jaws is something that cannot even explain. 472 00:36:17,800 --> 00:36:20,040 It is probably one of the moments more special. 473 00:36:20,240 --> 00:36:23,000 There is nothing that we can't be, is the best feeling in the world. 474 00:36:23,600 --> 00:36:26,840 On most days, take turns, making the safety of each other, 475 00:36:26,960 --> 00:36:29,080 and this gives us all a chance of surfing. 476 00:36:59,000 --> 00:37:02,200 Only three or four sequences very good came today, 477 00:37:02,280 --> 00:37:04,480 in a period of eight to ten hours. 478 00:37:05,640 --> 00:37:08,080 The climate and all things are here, but the tide does not. 479 00:37:08,720 --> 00:37:10,080 The waves are very small. 480 00:37:10,360 --> 00:37:12,880 I'll be impressed if they actually hit you. 481 00:37:18,880 --> 00:37:21,720 A large contribution to the evolution 482 00:37:21,920 --> 00:37:23,640 of the sport, is in fact, the security. 483 00:37:24,120 --> 00:37:27,520 And the most notable is the clothing inflatable that we have developed. 484 00:37:27,600 --> 00:37:29,840 I had the idea of the bathing suit inflatable 485 00:37:29,920 --> 00:37:31,919 by a near death experience at Mavericks. 486 00:37:31,920 --> 00:37:35,960 December 2010 487 00:37:37,840 --> 00:37:40,440 I was getting older, Was married, having children, 488 00:37:40,640 --> 00:37:43,248 simply felt that it was too dangerous to be worth it. 489 00:37:44,240 --> 00:37:47,840 It was something that was necessary, because the sport has reached a level 490 00:37:47,920 --> 00:37:49,960 in that we were losing people. 491 00:37:50,040 --> 00:37:51,840 You know, this was not acceptable. 492 00:37:54,040 --> 00:37:56,160 When you fall, you pull a rope, 493 00:37:56,240 --> 00:37:58,880 the costume inflates and takes you to the surface. 494 00:37:59,480 --> 00:38:00,639 You will not think about: 495 00:38:00,640 --> 00:38:02,439 "You want to know? I am safe because I am with the costume". 496 00:38:02,440 --> 00:38:04,200 You don't want to have that attitude. 497 00:38:05,600 --> 00:38:08,279 What happens when you are in a situation in which your costume is active? 498 00:38:08,280 --> 00:38:10,320 Or in a situation in which your costume is not active? 499 00:38:12,120 --> 00:38:13,480 So, for the sake of the costume, 500 00:38:13,720 --> 00:38:17,840 you have a lot more people that would otherwise not be there if it wasn't for him. 501 00:38:18,320 --> 00:38:22,120 People, in certain places, have become uncontrollable because of this. 502 00:38:22,280 --> 00:38:23,800 This is the paradox, to be sure. 503 00:38:33,440 --> 00:38:36,280 Saved lives, but somehow, 504 00:38:36,360 --> 00:38:38,520 I feel that has put at risk the lives of people 505 00:38:38,600 --> 00:38:40,920 that would not be there without the costume. 506 00:38:43,440 --> 00:38:45,720 If you will be surfing anywhere in the world, 507 00:38:45,800 --> 00:38:47,799 must have a security plan and a second reservation, 508 00:38:47,800 --> 00:38:49,104 and another plan after that. 509 00:38:50,040 --> 00:38:53,120 Most people think that the costume is the security plan. 510 00:38:53,320 --> 00:38:56,240 And assume that the twins will rescue them. 511 00:38:58,960 --> 00:39:01,560 Certainly it was morally difficult in the beginning, 512 00:39:01,640 --> 00:39:03,161 when I started getting too full. 513 00:39:04,280 --> 00:39:06,240 I could never live knowing 514 00:39:06,320 --> 00:39:08,519 that I was supposed to be there working with this group, 515 00:39:08,520 --> 00:39:10,000 which I consider to be my family, 516 00:39:10,080 --> 00:39:13,560 and that something happened because I was not taking care of them, 517 00:39:13,680 --> 00:39:15,280 she was taking care of another person 518 00:39:15,360 --> 00:39:17,316 that had nothing to do with our operation. 519 00:39:18,920 --> 00:39:21,559 I don't think that is the right of someone to say what can or not 520 00:39:21,560 --> 00:39:26,240 but when you cross that line of not following the security protocol, 521 00:39:26,320 --> 00:39:28,233 how to be able to first take care of yourself, 522 00:39:28,400 --> 00:39:29,878 you kind of, you crossed the line 523 00:39:29,880 --> 00:39:32,760 and needs to rethink about what you are doing there. 524 00:39:34,400 --> 00:39:36,640 If you look at the costume inflatable, 525 00:39:37,000 --> 00:39:40,680 yes, it is a nightmare on certain days, in certain waves... 526 00:39:41,560 --> 00:39:45,640 but the sport simply became amazing because of it. 527 00:39:55,760 --> 00:39:59,120 On the fifteenth, we had a tide that was expected to be 528 00:39:59,200 --> 00:40:01,679 greater than anything that we had had throughout the winter, 529 00:40:01,680 --> 00:40:03,200 maybe in my life. 530 00:40:04,880 --> 00:40:09,280 So, is lining up to be a day is monumental to the surfing paddled out. 531 00:40:09,360 --> 00:40:13,160 Forecast 5.5 m 18.2 seconds Front Height Estimated: 22,5 m 532 00:40:13,440 --> 00:40:14,760 Beautiful scenery. 533 00:40:14,840 --> 00:40:17,720 15 JANUARY 534 00:40:18,040 --> 00:40:20,280 Bring boards of the trailer was part of the discussion, 535 00:40:20,360 --> 00:40:24,320 but I am stubborn to try paddling. 536 00:40:24,400 --> 00:40:26,199 I think we're all a little scared, 537 00:40:26,200 --> 00:40:29,320 and a half that concerned with how big will today, 538 00:40:29,400 --> 00:40:31,660 but we hope that it is somehow controllable. 539 00:40:34,760 --> 00:40:36,368 In fact, I am very nervous now, 540 00:40:36,440 --> 00:40:37,740 because of surfing there. 541 00:40:37,760 --> 00:40:40,040 I don't know, I have this strange feeling. 542 00:40:41,320 --> 00:40:44,000 Certainly shaken. It is not a day to demonstrate feelings... 543 00:40:45,280 --> 00:40:47,062 I'm a little out of control, sure. 544 00:40:47,720 --> 00:40:49,600 Greg was basically sick all the time. 545 00:40:49,720 --> 00:40:52,560 He could not surfing. So, Greg ended up doing the security. 546 00:40:53,440 --> 00:40:56,160 It is very difficult to do well on a day like this. 547 00:40:56,400 --> 00:40:59,800 You know how much you waited for a day like this, 548 00:40:59,880 --> 00:41:01,180 to be able to surfing. 549 00:41:03,040 --> 00:41:06,720 All that we seek, chasing big waves, 550 00:41:06,800 --> 00:41:08,147 he was pointing to this day. 551 00:41:10,800 --> 00:41:13,720 I had never seen Jaws break like that in my life. 552 00:41:14,600 --> 00:41:16,200 Two hours, we will depart. 553 00:41:17,000 --> 00:41:18,300 Note. 554 00:41:28,480 --> 00:41:32,840 It is as if you were rehearsing to pick up the pace, 555 00:41:32,920 --> 00:41:35,240 because the wave moves very quickly 556 00:41:35,320 --> 00:41:37,640 and there is a lot of water hitting you on the face. 557 00:41:39,000 --> 00:41:42,440 A perfect example of: "be careful what you wish for". 558 00:41:59,560 --> 00:42:00,860 Warming! 559 00:42:33,040 --> 00:42:34,340 Shane, go! 560 00:42:34,360 --> 00:42:35,660 Shane. 561 00:42:36,200 --> 00:42:39,680 Yes, Shane. This was wonderful. 562 00:44:04,640 --> 00:44:06,360 You caught an incredible wave, isn't it? 563 00:44:08,440 --> 00:44:11,320 Simply, I felt as if the ocean were under control. 564 00:44:14,000 --> 00:44:15,719 It was not like a normal day, where you can 565 00:44:15,720 --> 00:44:17,920 fun, kind, all were... 566 00:44:39,080 --> 00:44:40,319 Let's go, come on. 567 00:44:40,320 --> 00:44:41,479 Climb up, let's go. 568 00:44:41,480 --> 00:44:42,780 <-O->-are You okay? <-O->-My neck. 569 00:44:42,880 --> 00:44:44,180 <-O->-what? <-O->-My neck. 570 00:44:44,840 --> 00:44:46,140 Here is Shaun Walsh. 571 00:44:46,440 --> 00:44:48,440 DK has a possible injury to the cervical. 572 00:44:49,600 --> 00:44:51,730 I'm tingly too, and my neck is fucked. 573 00:44:52,680 --> 00:44:54,000 Take me with Shaun. 574 00:44:57,120 --> 00:44:59,320 I could look in the eyes of all, 575 00:44:59,400 --> 00:45:02,680 and say: "My God, this was what happened in the Courts". 576 00:45:03,200 --> 00:45:05,520 It was the reverse situation. 577 00:45:05,960 --> 00:45:07,655 DK was there, he saved the lives of Greg, 578 00:45:07,840 --> 00:45:09,560 and now, Greg is doing all that you can. 579 00:45:11,840 --> 00:45:13,319 It was just all kind of surreal. 580 00:45:13,320 --> 00:45:15,360 Type, my heart sank, you know? 581 00:45:15,480 --> 00:45:18,001 I didn't know how serious it was, or what was going on. 582 00:45:19,120 --> 00:45:21,040 DK, you want to call the emergency? 583 00:45:21,120 --> 00:45:22,560 I need an ambulance. 584 00:45:22,760 --> 00:45:24,060 Do not connect to the mom. 585 00:45:25,560 --> 00:45:28,800 No matter how good the waves are, this is the priority, it does not matter. 586 00:45:29,040 --> 00:45:30,960 We took it with a lot of security. 587 00:45:31,280 --> 00:45:35,360 The goal is to simply bring it to a level of care higher. 588 00:45:35,800 --> 00:45:38,560 When this happens, there is not much that we can do. 589 00:45:39,000 --> 00:45:41,320 Shaun, he and Luke, all trying to go with me, 590 00:45:41,400 --> 00:45:44,182 but looking at how good the waves were, he wanted them to stay. 591 00:45:44,200 --> 00:45:46,640 Once in a life time sea conditions are like that. 592 00:45:52,160 --> 00:45:54,640 We were outside and it turned into 593 00:45:54,840 --> 00:45:57,520 a very important day of my life. 594 00:46:35,480 --> 00:46:38,080 Just took a wave in the face 595 00:46:38,160 --> 00:46:40,480 and I couldn't get advantage for a while. 596 00:46:57,160 --> 00:46:58,680 I saw him get in this wave, 597 00:46:58,760 --> 00:47:01,455 and well when I saw him standing, I thought, "He's inside too". 598 00:47:01,520 --> 00:47:05,280 And, you know, when you're there, sometimes, you need to take the risk. 599 00:47:32,200 --> 00:47:35,160 And he was standing the whole time going down the wave. 600 00:47:35,280 --> 00:47:36,800 I thought that he would jump. 601 00:48:15,800 --> 00:48:18,119 Do you know what happened, and some of the surfer here today, 602 00:48:18,120 --> 00:48:20,240 you know, history was made, with sure. 603 00:48:21,720 --> 00:48:25,040 Yes, today was amazing, but as soon as I took that wave, 604 00:48:25,160 --> 00:48:27,840 the reality hit and all that he could think of, was in DK. 605 00:48:46,200 --> 00:48:48,560 Nothing was broken, nothing fractured. 606 00:48:48,640 --> 00:48:50,880 All exams and echoes were good. 607 00:48:51,480 --> 00:48:54,200 Now, for the next month, I have to use this cervical collar, 608 00:48:55,320 --> 00:49:00,040 and through that rest for a time, and wait for my body to recover. 609 00:49:05,600 --> 00:49:07,760 It has been a January intensive. 610 00:49:08,240 --> 00:49:12,760 A week ago, we had one of the greatest days I've ever seen 611 00:49:12,840 --> 00:49:15,480 with winds, clean in my entire life here. 612 00:49:15,880 --> 00:49:19,280 I just felt I never would see everything 613 00:49:19,360 --> 00:49:20,660 happen again, 614 00:49:20,680 --> 00:49:23,400 until we are really old, cheering on a cliff. 615 00:49:24,440 --> 00:49:28,240 And then, a great system that appeared in the middle of the Pacific, 616 00:49:28,320 --> 00:49:29,960 and here we are. 617 00:49:30,040 --> 00:49:31,440 28 JANUARY 618 00:49:31,920 --> 00:49:33,199 Forecast to 4.5 m in 20 seconds Front Height Estimated: 20m 619 00:49:33,200 --> 00:49:35,800 Simply to have another chance with conditions like this 620 00:49:35,880 --> 00:49:41,440 it's... kinda made me take a step back and appreciate a little more 621 00:49:41,520 --> 00:49:43,400 by the tides that we are having now. 622 00:49:45,520 --> 00:49:48,389 I thought that my winter had ended after you leave the hospital, 623 00:49:48,400 --> 00:49:50,560 then I got high of doctors in Los Angeles. 624 00:49:50,640 --> 00:49:52,161 He said that everything was in place. 625 00:49:52,280 --> 00:49:55,160 I am very grateful. I never thought that would happen. 626 00:49:56,960 --> 00:50:00,720 And it was horrible for him not being able to surf, but he is, without a doubt, 627 00:50:00,800 --> 00:50:03,000 the best guy on the jet ski, doing the security. 628 00:50:03,120 --> 00:50:06,760 So I think on the whole, the group feels much more comfortable and confident, 629 00:50:06,840 --> 00:50:08,360 just by having it in the water. 630 00:50:08,640 --> 00:50:10,320 Sure, it's Greg. 631 00:50:26,960 --> 00:50:29,090 Pay attention to Greg, boys. Pay attention to it. 632 00:50:29,120 --> 00:50:30,420 I've taken it. 633 00:50:31,600 --> 00:50:32,900 Victory. 634 00:50:33,480 --> 00:50:37,360 In this sport, you definitely want to see your friends leave as well. 635 00:50:37,480 --> 00:50:39,520 For Greg, he picked up a wave a few years ago... 636 00:50:39,600 --> 00:50:40,519 October 2012 637 00:50:40,520 --> 00:50:43,080 ...that was the best tube already caught in the Jaws. 638 00:50:47,920 --> 00:50:51,760 And while crossing, he fell, flying out of the tube. 639 00:50:56,000 --> 00:50:58,760 He called for tripping at the finish line. 640 00:51:00,760 --> 00:51:02,720 You simply see how much time and energy 641 00:51:02,800 --> 00:51:05,320 will in each of these waves that are ridden 642 00:51:05,440 --> 00:51:08,720 and how long does it take to get a day like this, 643 00:51:08,920 --> 00:51:12,360 and it was very cool to see everything going right for Greg today. 644 00:51:29,880 --> 00:51:33,360 He grabbed a tube and came out. You could almost see 645 00:51:33,480 --> 00:51:36,960 all the energy and work that were employed in that wave, 646 00:51:37,040 --> 00:51:38,400 type, coming out of it. 647 00:51:38,560 --> 00:51:39,860 Good, Greg! 648 00:51:41,720 --> 00:51:44,040 We have Dorian surfing. 649 00:52:18,240 --> 00:52:19,920 Part of what Jaws is, it's like, 650 00:52:20,160 --> 00:52:22,640 you surf for six hours, 651 00:52:22,840 --> 00:52:25,520 you can only have a good opportunity in a wave. 652 00:52:42,840 --> 00:52:47,600 About four hours later, I picked up one of the best waves I've had there. 653 00:53:51,240 --> 00:53:53,040 Everything finally fell into place. 654 00:53:53,240 --> 00:53:57,560 Rather than focusing on the goal of surfing the biggest wave of his life, 655 00:53:57,920 --> 00:54:00,000 it's more of taking a step back 656 00:54:00,080 --> 00:54:01,800 and appreciate all the small things 657 00:54:02,000 --> 00:54:03,720 which have brought thee there, and live these days. 658 00:54:05,880 --> 00:54:08,160 The last El Niño was in 1998. 659 00:54:08,680 --> 00:54:11,280 There were only four El Niños of truth, in 40 years. 660 00:54:12,040 --> 00:54:13,880 The best big waves that already vi. 661 00:54:14,000 --> 00:54:16,680 I've been surfing big waves for 25 years. 662 00:54:19,840 --> 00:54:23,840 Ian chose a path that really serves him. 663 00:54:24,040 --> 00:54:27,680 Simply I am blessed as a father. 664 00:54:34,280 --> 00:54:38,760 Part of surfing is simply to look at what comes after. 665 00:54:40,680 --> 00:54:41,980 It is true what they say. 666 00:54:42,040 --> 00:54:45,200 The greater the adversity, the greater the achievement. 667 00:54:45,520 --> 00:54:48,720 And for me, no matter the size of the waves, 668 00:54:48,880 --> 00:54:50,640 or stepping into the unknown, 669 00:54:51,000 --> 00:54:52,300 this is where I want to be. 670 00:00:01,250 --> 00:00:10,500 Automatic Translation By: www.elsubtitle.com Visit Our Website For Free Translation 51658

Can't find what you're looking for?
Get subtitles in any language from opensubtitles.com, and translate them here.