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SOUTH PACIFIC
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In this time and age, you need to go
a little beyond
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00:01:03,120 --> 00:01:05,880
or at least want to take some more
steps
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00:01:06,000 --> 00:01:08,250
that any other person is willing to
give.
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00:01:09,251 --> 00:01:13,251
Subpack and sync by DanDee
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00:02:15,680 --> 00:02:17,040
Walsh won the Xcel Pro
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Surfer THE 100 BEST WAVES
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THE END OF THE MACHINE
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That's it, boys.
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Long flight.
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A both relaxing.
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Take that tip.
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00:03:21,200 --> 00:03:24,800
The middle that we get stuck in the
weather and we missed the best day of
high tide.
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00:03:26,360 --> 00:03:28,800
It is part of what we do as surfers,
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00:03:28,920 --> 00:03:30,760
you gets screwed.
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00:03:31,520 --> 00:03:35,720
Nor in the whole trip that we do have
surfing perfect,
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00:03:35,800 --> 00:03:37,480
and always gives the right.
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00:03:37,720 --> 00:03:39,111
It simply does not work like that.
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00:03:41,800 --> 00:03:43,600
Now we are at the end of the summer,
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00:03:43,680 --> 00:03:47,440
and now my focus is shifting to the
northern hemisphere
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00:03:47,560 --> 00:03:49,280
and preparation for Hawaii.
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00:03:50,520 --> 00:03:51,479
When you predict an El Niño is
strong,
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BROTHER
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BEACH HOOKIPA
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00:03:53,360 --> 00:03:54,599
...everyone is excited.
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The El Niño, it is basically as a
time standard unusual.
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The Pacific Ocean is warmer than
normal...
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SURFER
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00:03:59,800 --> 00:04:01,640
...and allows us to catch as many big
waves.
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Really started to get serious
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00:04:04,320 --> 00:04:06,400
when Ian sat down with me and Shaun
one day
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and said: "Prepare, this can be the
winter's most crazy of their lives."
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BROTHER
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The last El Niño was in 1998.
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00:04:13,640 --> 00:04:15,120
It was a winter of incredible.
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00:04:15,200 --> 00:04:16,159
JANUARY 1998
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00:04:16,160 --> 00:04:18,160
There were many sessions of giant
waves at Jaws.
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00:04:18,800 --> 00:04:21,360
Surfing extreme, the extreme
conditions,
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00:04:21,440 --> 00:04:22,359
just day after day of perfection.
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00:04:22,360 --> 00:04:23,799
DESIGNER BOARDS AND COACH
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00:04:23,800 --> 00:04:26,280
Taylor Knox caught a wave in Mexico,
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00:04:26,360 --> 00:04:28,200
that has stood the test of time.
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00:04:30,320 --> 00:04:33,440
An El Niño really strong happens so
rarely
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00:04:33,600 --> 00:04:37,680
this is a great opportunity to see
what is the limit,
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00:04:38,000 --> 00:04:39,920
as far as the surf goes.
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00:04:42,480 --> 00:04:43,839
I believe that if you will see the
biggest waves being ridden...
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00:04:43,840 --> 00:04:44,759
SURFER
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00:04:44,760 --> 00:04:46,060
...in the history of our sport.
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00:04:48,680 --> 00:04:51,720
Jaws basically has the biggest wave
in the world.
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00:04:53,200 --> 00:04:54,720
And Ian lives just in front.
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So he is in a position very unusual.
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00:05:01,600 --> 00:05:02,759
SURFER
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00:05:02,760 --> 00:05:05,455
If Jaws is rolling, the world of
surfing descends on your shoulders.
54
00:05:07,800 --> 00:05:10,480
Is prepared to welcome the waves of
one to two meters,
55
00:05:10,560 --> 00:05:12,120
but are waves of 18 metres.
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00:05:13,640 --> 00:05:15,840
And something that you can surfing,
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00:05:15,920 --> 00:05:17,360
you know, you can paddle inside of it.
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00:05:25,960 --> 00:05:27,880
The way that Ian and these guys are
surfing,
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00:05:28,480 --> 00:05:32,120
they are riding as if they were waves
two meters.
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00:05:36,640 --> 00:05:38,279
You have to laugh. It is something
difficult to understand, you know?
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00:05:38,280 --> 00:05:39,640
SURFER
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There is almost no other place that
offers this intensity.
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00:05:50,800 --> 00:05:54,400
A wave can drag the tens of meters
under the water.
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00:05:59,480 --> 00:06:00,919
With a violence that you can't
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00:06:00,920 --> 00:06:02,640
control your arms, you chat,
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00:06:02,840 --> 00:06:04,840
really think that is going to die.
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00:06:11,480 --> 00:06:14,600
Fight and try to do strength
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00:06:15,360 --> 00:06:18,800
can burn more oxygen than you can.
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00:06:27,560 --> 00:06:29,280
It is a calculated risk that you
assume,
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00:06:29,360 --> 00:06:31,280
and you manages and minimizes the
risks
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00:06:31,480 --> 00:06:33,200
with your physical conditioning
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00:06:33,760 --> 00:06:35,320
and with the mental preparation.
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00:06:41,160 --> 00:06:42,460
325, Ian.
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00:06:42,680 --> 00:06:44,600
A good ride, good work...
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00:06:44,800 --> 00:06:46,100
and stop!
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00:06:49,240 --> 00:06:50,540
Good test.
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00:06:53,920 --> 00:06:55,920
Ian is one of our athletes more
committed.
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00:06:56,000 --> 00:06:58,240
In fact, in the entire curriculum
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00:06:58,320 --> 00:07:00,239
he probably participated in more
training our...
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00:07:00,240 --> 00:07:01,359
COACH OF HIGH PERFORMANCE
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00:07:01,360 --> 00:07:02,960
...than any other that I can remember.
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00:07:04,920 --> 00:07:07,440
You will of things that are good
practices, which we call
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00:07:07,640 --> 00:07:08,639
tactical training.
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00:07:08,640 --> 00:07:10,560
All of these things, you can see
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00:07:10,760 --> 00:07:12,480
directly the relationship with
surfing better.
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00:07:12,960 --> 00:07:16,400
The interesting thing is that Ian has
also been a pioneer in the limits.
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00:07:16,480 --> 00:07:19,200
He participated in training projects
where the challenge,
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00:07:19,400 --> 00:07:20,760
and in this environment,
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00:07:20,840 --> 00:07:23,119
I think that we see the evolution in
training for big waves,
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00:07:23,120 --> 00:07:25,480
this idea of triumph under pressure.
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00:07:25,560 --> 00:07:28,160
Fifteen seconds. You want to go to
the next stage. Let's go!
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00:07:31,720 --> 00:07:34,600
<-O->-Managed to, succeeded! Let's
go! <-O->-Good job, friend.
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00:07:34,680 --> 00:07:36,560
He rehearses his techniques
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00:07:36,640 --> 00:07:39,160
in the sense of making the right
decision at the right time,
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00:07:39,240 --> 00:07:40,848
when the parameters are high.
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00:07:43,960 --> 00:07:46,280
If they are caught up by a wave of 20
meters,
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00:07:46,360 --> 00:07:48,159
need to have all the skills and
techniques
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00:07:48,160 --> 00:07:49,159
DIVING COACH FREE
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00:07:49,160 --> 00:07:52,440
to hold breath in an emergency that
may last a minute,
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00:07:55,160 --> 00:07:56,880
and need to do this again and again,
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00:07:56,960 --> 00:07:59,880
with intervals of only 15 seconds.
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00:08:01,640 --> 00:08:03,160
Your shark violent.
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00:08:04,880 --> 00:08:07,080
The effort by which we do spend is
equivalent
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00:08:07,160 --> 00:08:10,400
when any group of highly-trained,
with which we already work.
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00:08:11,400 --> 00:08:13,680
Only by knowing that I'm giving the
most of me
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00:08:13,760 --> 00:08:16,480
to stay as comfortable as possible
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00:08:16,560 --> 00:08:19,960
in the environment less comfortable
than I can imagine.
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00:08:21,000 --> 00:08:23,360
He is doing dives of 50 meters,
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00:08:23,560 --> 00:08:25,800
apneas of almost five minutes.
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00:08:27,680 --> 00:08:30,600
Need to be prepared to the maximum
level,
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00:08:30,720 --> 00:08:32,280
otherwise, you will end up finding,
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00:08:32,480 --> 00:08:35,160
the one wave that cannot support.
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00:08:38,000 --> 00:08:39,039
DECEMBER 2012
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CUTS BANK 180 KM WEST OF SAN DIEGO
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00:08:40,640 --> 00:08:42,120
By own experience,
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00:08:42,760 --> 00:08:44,800
DK has saved my life, without a doubt.
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00:08:46,160 --> 00:08:48,320
I afoguei in cut Bank.
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00:08:54,400 --> 00:08:55,700
The ambulance is on the way.
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00:09:02,360 --> 00:09:03,660
What happened?
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00:09:04,520 --> 00:09:06,960
You have been pulled down, and simply
became...
121
00:09:08,080 --> 00:09:10,949
The board you hit on the head, in the
belly or in some other place?
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00:09:11,160 --> 00:09:13,400
If it were not for the DK to be
there...
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00:09:14,160 --> 00:09:15,319
DESIGNER OF SURFBOARDS
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00:09:15,320 --> 00:09:17,580
...you know, he is the big reason
Greg still be alive.
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00:09:20,360 --> 00:09:21,660
If it weren't for him,
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00:09:21,680 --> 00:09:23,245
heroically, abandoning the jet ski
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00:09:23,360 --> 00:09:25,080
hundreds of miles away, in the middle
of the sea,
128
00:09:25,160 --> 00:09:26,760
to pick up my lifeless body,
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00:09:26,840 --> 00:09:30,800
and then gave me a hug and crossing
two or three large waves...
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00:09:31,400 --> 00:09:34,720
You will not find any other rescue
team in the world.
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00:09:36,200 --> 00:09:37,920
To save the life of someone,
especially
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00:09:38,120 --> 00:09:39,840
for someone like him, so near,
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00:09:39,920 --> 00:09:43,240
really motivated me to do what we do
today.
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00:09:45,360 --> 00:09:47,319
I and my brothers, we are all a
little more new
135
00:09:47,320 --> 00:09:49,920
but at home, we moved, taking care of
one another.
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00:09:50,320 --> 00:09:52,640
And this is only because of Ian and
his brothers.
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00:09:53,840 --> 00:09:56,040
We used to call them "squirrels".
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00:09:56,360 --> 00:09:59,080
Ian was the knight and they and their
little helpers...
139
00:09:59,240 --> 00:10:00,239
FATHER
140
00:10:00,240 --> 00:10:01,540
...and it was very good.
141
00:10:02,840 --> 00:10:05,560
If Shaun and DK are there, the twins,
he is as well.
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00:10:05,640 --> 00:10:07,726
Type they take, no matter what
happens.
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00:10:07,960 --> 00:10:08,839
MOTHER
144
00:10:08,840 --> 00:10:10,079
Makes things easier.
145
00:10:10,080 --> 00:10:12,280
It is never easy, but makes it a bit.
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00:10:17,160 --> 00:10:20,600
That combination of crazy, the four
brothers.
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00:10:20,840 --> 00:10:22,160
They are a team.
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00:10:23,080 --> 00:10:25,640
He is the older brother, all
following in the steps of him.
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00:10:25,720 --> 00:10:27,020
If he were a degenerate,
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00:10:27,040 --> 00:10:28,039
BROTHER
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00:10:28,040 --> 00:10:29,919
we probably would have followed that
path,
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00:10:29,920 --> 00:10:32,840
but he was an exemplary student in
the college.
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00:10:35,480 --> 00:10:38,800
My love and passion for big waves
154
00:10:39,160 --> 00:10:41,840
would not be the same without my
brothers.
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00:10:42,360 --> 00:10:43,660
Simply would not work.
156
00:10:48,120 --> 00:10:50,440
It seemed that even before the winter
begins,
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00:10:50,520 --> 00:10:52,160
he was working hard.
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00:10:55,520 --> 00:10:57,606
He kind of knew that there was
anticipation there,
159
00:10:57,680 --> 00:10:59,640
since the El Niño was drawing
160
00:10:59,720 --> 00:11:01,285
and the weather was beginning to be
established.
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00:11:01,400 --> 00:11:05,040
He is one of the few elite athletes
in our sport.
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00:11:05,960 --> 00:11:08,920
And the twins, they kind of have a
different aspect.
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00:11:09,160 --> 00:11:12,680
They are like your own natural
training, I would say so.
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00:11:14,120 --> 00:11:15,728
Is really connect with yourself
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00:11:15,800 --> 00:11:18,720
and if you keep physically active, no
matter what I do.
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00:11:23,120 --> 00:11:26,360
In addition to all the science and
the community by supporting
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00:11:26,440 --> 00:11:28,483
and trying to help you improve in big
waves,
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00:11:28,760 --> 00:11:32,520
I think it is simply important that
it surfing, for the sake of surfing.
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00:11:34,600 --> 00:11:37,880
There is no competition, the waves
are as big as can be...
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00:11:38,880 --> 00:11:41,000
connect with your friends and enjoy,
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00:11:41,120 --> 00:11:43,840
and this is an important part of this
program.
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00:11:48,480 --> 00:11:50,088
My favorite type of surfer is the guy
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00:11:50,240 --> 00:11:51,960
that you can have fun with everything.
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00:11:52,120 --> 00:11:54,160
If the wave is a metre or 25,
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00:11:54,240 --> 00:11:56,480
he will still be able to go out there
and have fun.
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00:11:56,760 --> 00:11:59,803
Guys like Ian are the guys in which
really breathe, so.
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00:16:53,760 --> 00:16:56,960
Basically, at each high tide, you
have a decision to make,
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00:16:57,040 --> 00:17:00,080
because there will be a competition
with which you need to worry about
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00:17:00,160 --> 00:17:04,400
or if you will be surfing the waves
that you really want, that is the big
bid.
180
00:17:06,320 --> 00:17:07,620
When you go from?
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00:17:07,680 --> 00:17:10,880
I leave tomorrow night, probably, to
Oahu,
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00:17:10,960 --> 00:17:12,260
for the competition.
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00:17:12,720 --> 00:17:16,200
I would like to go to Jaws, only to
desenferrujar.
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00:17:17,160 --> 00:17:18,920
How do you give account of everything
here?
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00:17:19,000 --> 00:17:19,959
It is so much.
186
00:17:19,960 --> 00:17:22,360
What do you mean? You have two
children.
187
00:17:22,640 --> 00:17:25,422
Yes, children will be easy after
dealing with all these things.
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00:17:26,480 --> 00:17:28,960
I competed on the world circuit for
about 11 years.
189
00:17:29,280 --> 00:17:31,840
When I was stopping, Ian was just
beginning,
190
00:17:31,960 --> 00:17:33,680
trying to qualify for the circuit.
191
00:17:33,960 --> 00:17:35,920
And I said, "man, there is no one of
his age
192
00:17:36,000 --> 00:17:37,920
that is behind the bid for the big
wave".
193
00:17:38,160 --> 00:17:39,480
So, I went up to Ian and said:
194
00:17:39,560 --> 00:17:41,999
"Let us become partners who surf big
waves together."
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00:17:42,000 --> 00:17:43,300
NOVEMBER 2007
196
00:17:43,400 --> 00:17:44,840
I think he made the right choice
197
00:17:44,920 --> 00:17:48,200
in surfing very large waves and still
be competitive
198
00:17:48,280 --> 00:17:49,580
in the event, and everything in
between.
199
00:17:51,600 --> 00:17:52,900
Any wave there?
200
00:17:53,680 --> 00:17:55,000
It's very windy.
201
00:17:55,440 --> 00:17:57,920
Guy, is very irregular.
202
00:17:58,000 --> 00:17:59,720
See how big is the second wave.
203
00:17:59,800 --> 00:18:03,480
It would be difficult to maintain the
position, with all of this turmoil.
204
00:18:03,960 --> 00:18:06,000
The tide was kind of weak and strange,
205
00:18:06,200 --> 00:18:07,634
the wind was totally wrong.
206
00:18:08,000 --> 00:18:09,300
What you want to do?
207
00:18:09,320 --> 00:18:10,620
I think I'm going to give out.
208
00:18:11,040 --> 00:18:13,680
I'm going to stop at Kuau, pick
things up and I'm going.
209
00:18:13,760 --> 00:18:15,060
We are far behind.
210
00:18:17,000 --> 00:18:18,119
Have fun in there.
211
00:18:18,120 --> 00:18:19,760
He decided to go to Honulua Bay,
212
00:18:19,840 --> 00:18:21,579
and I think he decided to hunt with
arrows.
213
00:18:43,520 --> 00:18:47,200
Really complicates things when you
try and do what Ian does.
214
00:18:48,640 --> 00:18:51,360
It really is focused on surfing giant
waves in Jaws,
215
00:18:51,440 --> 00:18:53,880
and is really passionate about
surfing in competitions.
216
00:18:54,040 --> 00:18:57,160
The waves are with a quarter of the
size.
217
00:18:58,520 --> 00:19:00,399
Then they will not longer participate
in the event?
218
00:19:00,400 --> 00:19:01,720
Is rolling well now.
219
00:19:02,640 --> 00:19:05,640
My battery has changed from the third
day today, the second day,
220
00:19:05,720 --> 00:19:09,000
and it's become a total madness to be
able to prepare everything
221
00:19:09,080 --> 00:19:11,160
and do the bags to go to Oahu.
222
00:19:11,520 --> 00:19:14,600
It is just insane, this entire season
of competition.
223
00:19:14,720 --> 00:19:16,320
I try to help him whenever I can.
224
00:19:18,120 --> 00:19:22,480
He tries to balance the two things,
which is no easy task.
225
00:19:26,360 --> 00:19:27,660
Just before my battery,
226
00:19:27,760 --> 00:19:29,559
I was warming up on some new planks.
227
00:19:29,560 --> 00:19:33,000
In the first wave, I went up to it
and she literally broke down.
228
00:19:34,000 --> 00:19:36,217
I thought: "This is... This is really
happening?"
229
00:19:36,920 --> 00:19:38,760
<-O->-In a wave. <-O->-In a wave, as
well?
230
00:19:39,160 --> 00:19:41,280
I can only improve from this point.
231
00:19:44,080 --> 00:19:48,880
Welcome to the HIC Pro 2015, an event
for$100,000.
232
00:19:48,960 --> 00:19:51,360
Ian Walsh, ten years ago, winning
this event,
233
00:19:51,480 --> 00:19:53,760
and of course, the ex-finalist,
234
00:19:53,880 --> 00:19:57,040
going very well in the Vans Triple
Crown of surfing, in the last year.
235
00:19:57,120 --> 00:19:59,946
If you know Ian, he is out there
looking for the biggest wave in the
world.
236
00:20:01,120 --> 00:20:04,560
Jack Robinson, 17 years of age, a
phenomenon of Australia.
237
00:20:05,000 --> 00:20:07,600
It will be a wave of good score for
Robo.
238
00:20:08,080 --> 00:20:10,840
Ian... we'll see. Red, Ian Walsh.
239
00:20:16,040 --> 00:20:19,520
Here we go. Jack Robinson in action,
firing in the front.
240
00:20:20,000 --> 00:20:23,560
Jack Robinson, of white, in the
first, Ian Walsh, in the second.
241
00:20:24,200 --> 00:20:26,400
He is trying to improve the 5.67.
242
00:20:26,640 --> 00:20:27,940
Beautiful wave.
243
00:20:29,720 --> 00:20:31,360
And sounds the alarm.
244
00:20:31,480 --> 00:20:33,960
Ian Walsh, surfing is excellent.
245
00:20:34,080 --> 00:20:35,960
He yanked the Robo in the first place.
246
00:20:37,640 --> 00:20:40,320
Testing the microphone. Yellow,
leather. Red leather.
247
00:20:40,400 --> 00:20:41,760
Ian, pleasure to meet you.
248
00:20:42,960 --> 00:20:44,260
It is good to see more of Ian Walsh.
249
00:20:44,320 --> 00:20:45,624
<-O->-congratulations, Ian.
<-O->-Thank You.
250
00:20:45,720 --> 00:20:48,806
I will give just a hi to the class of
4th year from my mother, who is
watching,
251
00:20:48,840 --> 00:20:50,520
School Pukalani, in Maui.
252
00:20:50,800 --> 00:20:52,760
Hello, School Pukalani!
253
00:20:52,840 --> 00:20:54,600
Ian was as well. Uncle Ian detonated.
254
00:20:54,680 --> 00:20:55,799
With you, personal.
255
00:20:55,800 --> 00:20:57,100
<-O->-it Is good to see you.
<-O->-Right.
256
00:20:58,560 --> 00:21:03,120
And here we are, 23 minutes left for
two more surfers go to the end
257
00:21:03,200 --> 00:21:05,120
along with Kaito Kino, and Billy
Kemper.
258
00:21:05,440 --> 00:21:07,840
It is a take-off in turbulent waters
for Ian Walsh.
259
00:21:08,600 --> 00:21:12,000
Dictating the level up here for the
semi-final number two.
260
00:21:12,640 --> 00:21:14,200
Robo surfing.
261
00:21:14,440 --> 00:21:16,200
Beautiful manoeuvre in the curve
combined.
262
00:21:16,920 --> 00:21:18,440
Here we go, Ian Walsh.
263
00:21:19,040 --> 00:21:21,080
Is the famous Ian Walsh well there.
264
00:21:22,680 --> 00:21:24,680
Jack Robinson in the second wave.
265
00:21:27,760 --> 00:21:29,920
Well, this will solve the second
semi-final.
266
00:21:30,000 --> 00:21:34,520
Ian Walsh and Jack Robinson, to
advance, in first and second, to the
end
267
00:21:34,600 --> 00:21:36,920
to face Billy Kemper and Kaito Kino.
268
00:21:37,680 --> 00:21:40,080
And we are on the way to the end.
269
00:21:40,920 --> 00:21:42,280
<-O->-Ian Walsh. <-O->-Ian Walsh.
270
00:21:42,360 --> 00:21:45,160
A beautiful exit, slips on the curve
at the bottom and rises to the top.
271
00:21:45,280 --> 00:21:48,080
A curve aggressive, in the low back,
the other face,
272
00:21:48,160 --> 00:21:50,320
a little more aggressive, the second
facing.
273
00:21:50,680 --> 00:21:54,920
My goodness, you could not wish for a
beginning better as a competitor.
274
00:21:59,040 --> 00:22:00,560
We have Billy coming out.
275
00:22:00,680 --> 00:22:02,280
Let's see the maneuvering of the
closure.
276
00:22:04,320 --> 00:22:08,480
And right behind him, Ian Walsh,
quickly reaching the one 9,93.
277
00:22:09,160 --> 00:22:11,760
With that relaxation, and it is in
the lead.
278
00:22:14,480 --> 00:22:17,040
And this is simply a victory lap at
this point.
279
00:22:17,200 --> 00:22:18,560
There are only a few people
280
00:22:18,640 --> 00:22:21,239
as good as it in small waves,
especially on large,
281
00:22:21,240 --> 00:22:24,360
and the proof is his performance in
Sunset Beach.
282
00:22:24,480 --> 00:22:26,199
Look for Ian Walsh, he is on fire.
283
00:22:26,200 --> 00:22:29,880
Billy Kemper, he was with 5.6 in this
event...
284
00:22:30,200 --> 00:22:33,920
You is a, now, two times champion of
the HIC Pro,
285
00:22:34,040 --> 00:22:36,640
2005 and now, in 2015,
286
00:22:36,760 --> 00:22:38,600
of Maui, Ian Walsh!
287
00:22:46,400 --> 00:22:49,040
Back on the bike soon after that.
288
00:22:58,280 --> 00:22:59,580
Right.
289
00:22:59,880 --> 00:23:01,180
The winter has arrived.
290
00:23:03,520 --> 00:23:04,799
That day.
291
00:23:04,800 --> 00:23:06,560
Drug, I'm so excited!
292
00:23:09,160 --> 00:23:12,080
It is so nice to win a tournament.
293
00:23:12,240 --> 00:23:14,920
My God, I'm so electric.
294
00:23:15,240 --> 00:23:19,600
But it is so good. So many times, I
was so close to getting this.
295
00:23:27,720 --> 00:23:29,240
...to Ian Walsh,
296
00:23:29,600 --> 00:23:31,560
and certainly for all children
297
00:23:31,760 --> 00:23:34,440
in the class of his mother, in the
School Pukalani...
298
00:23:34,520 --> 00:23:35,820
EAST Airport Joint Base
299
00:23:41,240 --> 00:23:42,540
Box office
300
00:23:47,240 --> 00:23:49,160
Are 16: 30.
301
00:23:52,280 --> 00:23:54,480
Good job. Congratulations.
302
00:23:54,960 --> 00:23:56,079
I had fun.
303
00:23:56,080 --> 00:23:57,520
I'm so excited.
304
00:24:07,760 --> 00:24:09,060
Thanks, guys.
305
00:24:09,080 --> 00:24:11,880
Certainly would not have been
possible without all of you, staff,
306
00:24:11,960 --> 00:24:13,239
we are all one big unit,
307
00:24:13,240 --> 00:24:15,920
so thank you, and enjoy yourselves
this evening.
308
00:24:29,800 --> 00:24:31,440
I don't know about this year.
309
00:24:32,080 --> 00:24:34,949
Let's just pray that everything goes
right, by the security of all,
310
00:24:35,120 --> 00:24:38,400
because all are eager to proceed.
311
00:24:40,240 --> 00:24:43,760
With the winter season with El Niño
coming,
312
00:24:43,840 --> 00:24:47,880
there are guys who really believe and
want to surf
313
00:24:48,000 --> 00:24:50,160
in waves of 25 meters around,
314
00:24:50,240 --> 00:24:53,560
and, the sky is the limit, you know,
the size of the wave that you can
surf,
315
00:24:54,240 --> 00:24:55,960
depends on the desire of each one.
316
00:24:56,920 --> 00:24:58,680
Always will progress.
317
00:24:58,800 --> 00:25:00,800
For me, to sit here and say:
318
00:25:01,000 --> 00:25:03,680
"No, in our generation, no one will
surpass this,"
319
00:25:03,920 --> 00:25:05,220
it is stupidity.
320
00:25:06,280 --> 00:25:07,519
On the right day
321
00:25:07,520 --> 00:25:09,319
with the right conditions, with the
security team right.
322
00:25:09,320 --> 00:25:12,320
Likely to see anyone this year that
would make it impossible.
323
00:25:14,200 --> 00:25:15,840
You can feel the tension in the air,
324
00:25:15,920 --> 00:25:19,400
but I can always tell how much they
enjoy themselves.
325
00:25:19,600 --> 00:25:23,040
They prepare on the previous day,
wake up in the dawn of the day...
326
00:25:24,600 --> 00:25:27,800
4 JANUARY
327
00:25:27,880 --> 00:25:30,720
Forecast: 3.7 m for a 16.7 seconds
Front Height Estimated: 14,5 m
328
00:25:30,800 --> 00:25:33,840
The first high tide of the year at
Jaws is always very exciting.
329
00:25:34,640 --> 00:25:37,422
All are a little nervous and excited
to see each other.
330
00:25:37,520 --> 00:25:40,120
It has that energy in the air that
you can't play.
331
00:25:40,640 --> 00:25:42,239
It is almost as if we were entering
332
00:25:42,240 --> 00:25:44,559
in a battle of the gladiators all the
times that we go there,
333
00:25:44,560 --> 00:25:46,680
type, you do not know what will
happen.
334
00:25:47,320 --> 00:25:48,319
WATER SAFETY
335
00:25:48,320 --> 00:25:49,799
I wasn't actually here this morning,
336
00:25:49,800 --> 00:25:53,080
then we slow down everything rather
start at six o'clock,
337
00:25:53,160 --> 00:25:56,720
we decided to just go back with things
338
00:25:56,800 --> 00:26:00,160
and not in the cansarmos by staying
out here, waiting for the waves.
339
00:26:01,360 --> 00:26:02,760
The winds will come,
340
00:26:02,840 --> 00:26:05,399
but there is no wind now, so the
faster we get out of here
341
00:26:05,400 --> 00:26:06,700
the better it will be.
342
00:26:24,600 --> 00:26:28,480
The first thing that you really feel
is the texture of the ocean.
343
00:26:29,040 --> 00:26:31,360
Then you feel if there is wind or if
the sea is rough.
344
00:26:32,120 --> 00:26:34,880
There is a lot of refraction coming
from the rocks.
345
00:26:35,800 --> 00:26:38,160
You feel the energy of the tide,
346
00:26:38,760 --> 00:26:41,720
and that is really when things go
wrong on the day.
347
00:26:41,880 --> 00:26:44,280
Ian is paddling. Ian is starting.
348
00:26:55,600 --> 00:26:56,759
It was a difficult.
349
00:26:56,760 --> 00:26:58,240
It was very ingrime.
350
00:27:07,800 --> 00:27:09,360
Look out, here comes the sequence.
351
00:27:20,720 --> 00:27:22,640
Take the rope. Take the rope.
352
00:27:22,760 --> 00:27:24,060
Everything well?
353
00:27:26,200 --> 00:27:27,500
Right. Is the Greg.
354
00:27:32,480 --> 00:27:34,240
Is the Ian.
355
00:27:34,360 --> 00:27:35,920
Ian foot.
356
00:27:48,400 --> 00:27:50,480
I think I cut myself ugly.
357
00:27:50,680 --> 00:27:53,080
We are going back to the boat. Ian
cut his finger.
358
00:27:53,200 --> 00:27:54,500
Prepare the boat.
359
00:27:55,080 --> 00:27:56,558
<-O->-do you Think that I can still
surfing? <-O->-Yes.
360
00:27:57,280 --> 00:27:58,760
Just wrap. Sew after.
361
00:27:59,080 --> 00:28:01,000
I was with a small hiccup in the
middle of the day.
362
00:28:01,080 --> 00:28:04,120
The back of the rudder cut off my
finger,
363
00:28:04,200 --> 00:28:05,760
almost down to the bone.
364
00:28:05,880 --> 00:28:07,920
I made a dressing quickly and went
back to the sea,
365
00:28:08,000 --> 00:28:10,640
and I got another wave of cool that
was very unstable.
366
00:28:12,640 --> 00:28:14,205
I ended up giving a break to rest
367
00:28:14,320 --> 00:28:17,000
and the waves were strange soon after.
368
00:28:21,440 --> 00:28:24,309
That small dose of wind makes the
difference between day and night.
369
00:28:24,320 --> 00:28:27,160
Not see anything and have salt water
in the eyes...
370
00:28:29,880 --> 00:28:31,920
it's basically like if you jumped off
of a bridge
371
00:28:32,000 --> 00:28:33,680
without knowing what there is down
there.
372
00:28:37,520 --> 00:28:41,200
On a really good day at Jaws, you
could go and just catch a wave
373
00:28:41,280 --> 00:28:43,400
in those seven, eight, nine hours.
374
00:28:46,040 --> 00:28:48,160
Finally we gathered the whole team,
375
00:28:48,240 --> 00:28:50,240
and I will have the finger sewn this
evening
376
00:28:50,360 --> 00:28:53,920
I make sure that you do not tore any
tendon or something like that.
377
00:28:54,680 --> 00:28:58,280
I think that was a day average today,
but it was a good start.
378
00:28:59,200 --> 00:29:00,560
It is only the beginning.
379
00:29:02,840 --> 00:29:05,200
Stretch. Good. Close.
380
00:29:05,320 --> 00:29:06,279
Stretch.
381
00:29:06,280 --> 00:29:07,975
Good. Now lower your hand completely.
382
00:29:08,520 --> 00:29:10,680
If there is a competition, a tide
epic,
383
00:29:10,760 --> 00:29:12,839
and you need to surfing tomorrow, I
could protect you.
384
00:29:12,840 --> 00:29:15,440
It is best to stay out of the water
for a few days.
385
00:29:15,560 --> 00:29:17,640
Yes, I'm aiming to day ten.
386
00:29:17,720 --> 00:29:20,480
<-O->-Right.
-So, 6 days would be my goal.
387
00:29:25,400 --> 00:29:28,240
The entire history of surfing giant
waves is very interesting.
388
00:29:28,640 --> 00:29:30,400
You know, these guys are the pioneers.
389
00:29:30,600 --> 00:29:33,440
They go there with no ropes and no
safety equipment.
390
00:29:34,080 --> 00:29:38,680
There was always this idea that
anything over ten metres
391
00:29:38,760 --> 00:29:41,280
starts to get very dangerous for
surfing,
392
00:29:41,360 --> 00:29:43,480
this limit impossible size.
393
00:29:43,560 --> 00:29:46,880
And then there was the introduction
of this type of surfing trailer.
394
00:29:47,080 --> 00:29:49,036
Basically, if you can climb up on a
surfboard,
395
00:29:49,080 --> 00:29:50,775
could be placed in a large wave.
396
00:29:51,240 --> 00:29:54,400
You can use a ten or 15 waves of this
type
397
00:29:54,480 --> 00:29:57,160
because you can position yourself
much more.
398
00:29:57,600 --> 00:30:00,079
Has a machine that can travel 65
miles per hour,
399
00:30:00,080 --> 00:30:02,880
and if you have a wave of 15 meters
in that direction, go there and take
a.
400
00:30:05,400 --> 00:30:08,880
The guys not surfariam throughout the
year, they would come pick up the 15
yards.
401
00:30:08,960 --> 00:30:10,280
It's insane.
402
00:30:11,840 --> 00:30:14,520
You take any common person to surfing
paddling at Jaws,
403
00:30:14,920 --> 00:30:16,720
you will not be able to catch a wave,
and catch,
404
00:30:16,800 --> 00:30:18,640
will be totally annihilated.
405
00:30:28,920 --> 00:30:34,000
The revolution of surfing trailer
showed us that it was possible to
survive
406
00:30:34,080 --> 00:30:36,440
the waves are much larger than
previously imagined.
407
00:30:42,760 --> 00:30:44,760
The surf trailer helped establish
408
00:30:44,960 --> 00:30:47,640
the jet ski as a safety tool
409
00:30:47,720 --> 00:30:49,640
and for all that you do in the ocean.
410
00:30:51,320 --> 00:30:56,840
It was really the stepping stone to
the next evolution of the wave
surfing giant.
411
00:30:58,040 --> 00:31:00,680
I used to compete, paddling with the
boards,
412
00:31:00,760 --> 00:31:03,000
and had the idea that I could do
413
00:31:03,200 --> 00:31:04,920
these boards are faster.
414
00:31:06,080 --> 00:31:10,480
It was when Ian, Greg and some other
guys
415
00:31:10,600 --> 00:31:12,360
began to paddle these things.
416
00:31:14,320 --> 00:31:17,440
We make that conscious decision to
stop with the surfing trailer
417
00:31:17,640 --> 00:31:19,120
and back rowing.
418
00:31:24,520 --> 00:31:27,520
All the speed with which the wave
travels when it reaches 15 metres
419
00:31:27,600 --> 00:31:30,960
is too fast for the design of the
surfboard pattern. Everything needs
to change.
420
00:31:32,480 --> 00:31:34,088
They are ready? I'm not sure.
421
00:31:34,160 --> 00:31:36,840
No one has done this before, so
nobody knows.
422
00:31:38,480 --> 00:31:41,640
Chris Christenson, he has the details
423
00:31:41,720 --> 00:31:44,560
that I think that no other designer
of the board has.
424
00:31:45,280 --> 00:31:48,760
So, I think to find something that
give us a little more
425
00:31:48,840 --> 00:31:50,480
and that every time that I give me
wrong,
426
00:31:50,560 --> 00:31:53,120
it is because I came down the wave
too fast.
427
00:31:53,200 --> 00:31:54,879
After every big tide that he surf,
428
00:31:54,880 --> 00:31:56,749
we talked with the other, just then.
429
00:31:56,800 --> 00:31:59,000
Have this rail more parallel at the
top there
430
00:31:59,080 --> 00:32:01,340
it will allow the board to work
better at the base of the wave,
431
00:32:01,360 --> 00:32:04,440
we'll allow you to paddle faster with
the shoulders further apart
432
00:32:04,520 --> 00:32:07,560
and have a tail wider, give you more
maneuverability.
433
00:32:10,680 --> 00:32:13,880
If they can trust me before they went
in the water,
434
00:32:13,960 --> 00:32:16,240
this leaves them at an advantage in
the game.
435
00:32:22,280 --> 00:32:24,720
10 JANUARY
436
00:32:26,160 --> 00:32:27,839
Forecast 3.9 m in 14,7 seconds Front
Height Estimated: 13m
437
00:32:27,840 --> 00:32:29,480
The forecast looks very good,
438
00:32:29,600 --> 00:32:31,160
probably the best of the year.
439
00:32:31,280 --> 00:32:33,119
Do you think that is the size that
Ian is looking for?
440
00:32:33,120 --> 00:32:35,800
No, Ian is searching for the largest
possible.
441
00:32:37,600 --> 00:32:40,240
Simply... it seems that the tide is
not yet here.
442
00:32:40,360 --> 00:32:43,560
I don't know, the markers simply are
not evident.
443
00:32:44,000 --> 00:32:47,000
I think that simply let's start now
and follow through with our plan
444
00:32:47,080 --> 00:32:48,380
and to go there at first light,
445
00:32:48,400 --> 00:32:50,520
hoping to improve throughout the
morning.
446
00:32:57,240 --> 00:32:59,280
The best conditions until now.
447
00:33:02,560 --> 00:33:05,400
The fact of the forecast we have
indicated the winds light
448
00:33:05,480 --> 00:33:08,640
aroused much more interest for
surfers around the world.
449
00:33:21,320 --> 00:33:23,720
The concentration of people in the
morning was more mild,
450
00:33:23,840 --> 00:33:26,760
so you could stand there and begin to
align with the waves
451
00:33:26,840 --> 00:33:29,480
the way that you wanted, where you
wanted to catch them.
452
00:33:39,000 --> 00:33:42,600
I think that the plank of a guy went
well over the top of me at the end of
the tube.
453
00:33:53,240 --> 00:33:55,400
And then, as more people arrive,
454
00:33:55,480 --> 00:33:57,320
the place that picks up the waves is
dictated,
455
00:33:57,520 --> 00:33:59,240
based on where they're caught in the
crowd.
456
00:34:01,960 --> 00:34:04,879
You know, when you are turning,
trying to paddle for a wave of giant,
457
00:34:04,880 --> 00:34:06,880
and you have people to your left and
to the right,
458
00:34:06,915 --> 00:34:08,039
if positioning, calling...
459
00:34:08,040 --> 00:34:10,439
The press is there. There are
helicopters flying around everywhere,
460
00:34:10,440 --> 00:34:12,720
drones buzzing in his head,
461
00:34:12,800 --> 00:34:15,640
boats passing each other, it is
simply a chaos.
462
00:34:17,400 --> 00:34:19,200
Surfed at Jaws for 15 years,
463
00:34:19,280 --> 00:34:21,760
and I'm not going there anymore
because it's simply a zone crazy.
464
00:34:21,880 --> 00:34:23,400
It is not fun, it is very dangerous.
465
00:34:24,560 --> 00:34:27,255
The last thing I want to do is hurt
someone with the board.
466
00:34:29,840 --> 00:34:31,960
It is when you commit errors.
467
00:34:32,040 --> 00:34:35,400
You know, you are surfing according
to the crowd, not with what you want.
468
00:34:43,280 --> 00:34:46,360
When you have 50 people there,
definitely not, I will,
469
00:34:46,440 --> 00:34:48,600
Ian, on the other hand, seems to do
well.
470
00:35:41,360 --> 00:35:43,480
Let's take a second wave.
471
00:36:13,000 --> 00:36:17,040
Stay with my brother in the water in
Jaws is something that cannot even
explain.
472
00:36:17,800 --> 00:36:20,040
It is probably one of the moments
more special.
473
00:36:20,240 --> 00:36:23,000
There is nothing that we can't be, is
the best feeling in the world.
474
00:36:23,600 --> 00:36:26,840
On most days, take turns, making the
safety of each other,
475
00:36:26,960 --> 00:36:29,080
and this gives us all a chance of
surfing.
476
00:36:59,000 --> 00:37:02,200
Only three or four sequences very
good came today,
477
00:37:02,280 --> 00:37:04,480
in a period of eight to ten hours.
478
00:37:05,640 --> 00:37:08,080
The climate and all things are here,
but the tide does not.
479
00:37:08,720 --> 00:37:10,080
The waves are very small.
480
00:37:10,360 --> 00:37:12,880
I'll be impressed if they actually
hit you.
481
00:37:18,880 --> 00:37:21,720
A large contribution to the evolution
482
00:37:21,920 --> 00:37:23,640
of the sport, is in fact, the
security.
483
00:37:24,120 --> 00:37:27,520
And the most notable is the clothing
inflatable that we have developed.
484
00:37:27,600 --> 00:37:29,840
I had the idea of the bathing suit
inflatable
485
00:37:29,920 --> 00:37:31,919
by a near death experience at
Mavericks.
486
00:37:31,920 --> 00:37:35,960
December 2010
487
00:37:37,840 --> 00:37:40,440
I was getting older, Was married,
having children,
488
00:37:40,640 --> 00:37:43,248
simply felt that it was too dangerous
to be worth it.
489
00:37:44,240 --> 00:37:47,840
It was something that was necessary,
because the sport has reached a level
490
00:37:47,920 --> 00:37:49,960
in that we were losing people.
491
00:37:50,040 --> 00:37:51,840
You know, this was not acceptable.
492
00:37:54,040 --> 00:37:56,160
When you fall, you pull a rope,
493
00:37:56,240 --> 00:37:58,880
the costume inflates and takes you to
the surface.
494
00:37:59,480 --> 00:38:00,639
You will not think about:
495
00:38:00,640 --> 00:38:02,439
"You want to know? I am safe because
I am with the costume".
496
00:38:02,440 --> 00:38:04,200
You don't want to have that attitude.
497
00:38:05,600 --> 00:38:08,279
What happens when you are in a
situation in which your costume is
active?
498
00:38:08,280 --> 00:38:10,320
Or in a situation in which your
costume is not active?
499
00:38:12,120 --> 00:38:13,480
So, for the sake of the costume,
500
00:38:13,720 --> 00:38:17,840
you have a lot more people that would
otherwise not be there if it wasn't
for him.
501
00:38:18,320 --> 00:38:22,120
People, in certain places, have
become uncontrollable because of this.
502
00:38:22,280 --> 00:38:23,800
This is the paradox, to be sure.
503
00:38:33,440 --> 00:38:36,280
Saved lives, but somehow,
504
00:38:36,360 --> 00:38:38,520
I feel that has put at risk the lives
of people
505
00:38:38,600 --> 00:38:40,920
that would not be there without the
costume.
506
00:38:43,440 --> 00:38:45,720
If you will be surfing anywhere in
the world,
507
00:38:45,800 --> 00:38:47,799
must have a security plan and a
second reservation,
508
00:38:47,800 --> 00:38:49,104
and another plan after that.
509
00:38:50,040 --> 00:38:53,120
Most people think that the costume is
the security plan.
510
00:38:53,320 --> 00:38:56,240
And assume that the twins will rescue
them.
511
00:38:58,960 --> 00:39:01,560
Certainly it was morally difficult in
the beginning,
512
00:39:01,640 --> 00:39:03,161
when I started getting too full.
513
00:39:04,280 --> 00:39:06,240
I could never live knowing
514
00:39:06,320 --> 00:39:08,519
that I was supposed to be there
working with this group,
515
00:39:08,520 --> 00:39:10,000
which I consider to be my family,
516
00:39:10,080 --> 00:39:13,560
and that something happened because I
was not taking care of them,
517
00:39:13,680 --> 00:39:15,280
she was taking care of another person
518
00:39:15,360 --> 00:39:17,316
that had nothing to do with our
operation.
519
00:39:18,920 --> 00:39:21,559
I don't think that is the right of
someone to say what can or not
520
00:39:21,560 --> 00:39:26,240
but when you cross that line of not
following the security protocol,
521
00:39:26,320 --> 00:39:28,233
how to be able to first take care of
yourself,
522
00:39:28,400 --> 00:39:29,878
you kind of, you crossed the line
523
00:39:29,880 --> 00:39:32,760
and needs to rethink about what you
are doing there.
524
00:39:34,400 --> 00:39:36,640
If you look at the costume inflatable,
525
00:39:37,000 --> 00:39:40,680
yes, it is a nightmare on certain
days, in certain waves...
526
00:39:41,560 --> 00:39:45,640
but the sport simply became amazing
because of it.
527
00:39:55,760 --> 00:39:59,120
On the fifteenth, we had a tide that
was expected to be
528
00:39:59,200 --> 00:40:01,679
greater than anything that we had had
throughout the winter,
529
00:40:01,680 --> 00:40:03,200
maybe in my life.
530
00:40:04,880 --> 00:40:09,280
So, is lining up to be a day is
monumental to the surfing paddled out.
531
00:40:09,360 --> 00:40:13,160
Forecast 5.5 m 18.2 seconds Front
Height Estimated: 22,5 m
532
00:40:13,440 --> 00:40:14,760
Beautiful scenery.
533
00:40:14,840 --> 00:40:17,720
15 JANUARY
534
00:40:18,040 --> 00:40:20,280
Bring boards of the trailer was part
of the discussion,
535
00:40:20,360 --> 00:40:24,320
but I am stubborn to try paddling.
536
00:40:24,400 --> 00:40:26,199
I think we're all a little scared,
537
00:40:26,200 --> 00:40:29,320
and a half that concerned with how
big will today,
538
00:40:29,400 --> 00:40:31,660
but we hope that it is somehow
controllable.
539
00:40:34,760 --> 00:40:36,368
In fact, I am very nervous now,
540
00:40:36,440 --> 00:40:37,740
because of surfing there.
541
00:40:37,760 --> 00:40:40,040
I don't know, I have this strange
feeling.
542
00:40:41,320 --> 00:40:44,000
Certainly shaken. It is not a day to
demonstrate feelings...
543
00:40:45,280 --> 00:40:47,062
I'm a little out of control, sure.
544
00:40:47,720 --> 00:40:49,600
Greg was basically sick all the time.
545
00:40:49,720 --> 00:40:52,560
He could not surfing. So, Greg ended
up doing the security.
546
00:40:53,440 --> 00:40:56,160
It is very difficult to do well on a
day like this.
547
00:40:56,400 --> 00:40:59,800
You know how much you waited for a
day like this,
548
00:40:59,880 --> 00:41:01,180
to be able to surfing.
549
00:41:03,040 --> 00:41:06,720
All that we seek, chasing big waves,
550
00:41:06,800 --> 00:41:08,147
he was pointing to this day.
551
00:41:10,800 --> 00:41:13,720
I had never seen Jaws break like that
in my life.
552
00:41:14,600 --> 00:41:16,200
Two hours, we will depart.
553
00:41:17,000 --> 00:41:18,300
Note.
554
00:41:28,480 --> 00:41:32,840
It is as if you were rehearsing to
pick up the pace,
555
00:41:32,920 --> 00:41:35,240
because the wave moves very quickly
556
00:41:35,320 --> 00:41:37,640
and there is a lot of water hitting
you on the face.
557
00:41:39,000 --> 00:41:42,440
A perfect example of: "be careful
what you wish for".
558
00:41:59,560 --> 00:42:00,860
Warming!
559
00:42:33,040 --> 00:42:34,340
Shane, go!
560
00:42:34,360 --> 00:42:35,660
Shane.
561
00:42:36,200 --> 00:42:39,680
Yes, Shane. This was wonderful.
562
00:44:04,640 --> 00:44:06,360
You caught an incredible wave, isn't
it?
563
00:44:08,440 --> 00:44:11,320
Simply, I felt as if the ocean were
under control.
564
00:44:14,000 --> 00:44:15,719
It was not like a normal day, where
you can
565
00:44:15,720 --> 00:44:17,920
fun, kind, all were...
566
00:44:39,080 --> 00:44:40,319
Let's go, come on.
567
00:44:40,320 --> 00:44:41,479
Climb up, let's go.
568
00:44:41,480 --> 00:44:42,780
<-O->-are You okay? <-O->-My neck.
569
00:44:42,880 --> 00:44:44,180
<-O->-what? <-O->-My neck.
570
00:44:44,840 --> 00:44:46,140
Here is Shaun Walsh.
571
00:44:46,440 --> 00:44:48,440
DK has a possible injury to the
cervical.
572
00:44:49,600 --> 00:44:51,730
I'm tingly too, and my neck is fucked.
573
00:44:52,680 --> 00:44:54,000
Take me with Shaun.
574
00:44:57,120 --> 00:44:59,320
I could look in the eyes of all,
575
00:44:59,400 --> 00:45:02,680
and say: "My God, this was what
happened in the Courts".
576
00:45:03,200 --> 00:45:05,520
It was the reverse situation.
577
00:45:05,960 --> 00:45:07,655
DK was there, he saved the lives of
Greg,
578
00:45:07,840 --> 00:45:09,560
and now, Greg is doing all that you
can.
579
00:45:11,840 --> 00:45:13,319
It was just all kind of surreal.
580
00:45:13,320 --> 00:45:15,360
Type, my heart sank, you know?
581
00:45:15,480 --> 00:45:18,001
I didn't know how serious it was, or
what was going on.
582
00:45:19,120 --> 00:45:21,040
DK, you want to call the emergency?
583
00:45:21,120 --> 00:45:22,560
I need an ambulance.
584
00:45:22,760 --> 00:45:24,060
Do not connect to the mom.
585
00:45:25,560 --> 00:45:28,800
No matter how good the waves are,
this is the priority, it does not
matter.
586
00:45:29,040 --> 00:45:30,960
We took it with a lot of security.
587
00:45:31,280 --> 00:45:35,360
The goal is to simply bring it to a
level of care higher.
588
00:45:35,800 --> 00:45:38,560
When this happens, there is not much
that we can do.
589
00:45:39,000 --> 00:45:41,320
Shaun, he and Luke, all trying to go
with me,
590
00:45:41,400 --> 00:45:44,182
but looking at how good the waves
were, he wanted them to stay.
591
00:45:44,200 --> 00:45:46,640
Once in a life time sea conditions
are like that.
592
00:45:52,160 --> 00:45:54,640
We were outside and it turned into
593
00:45:54,840 --> 00:45:57,520
a very important day of my life.
594
00:46:35,480 --> 00:46:38,080
Just took a wave in the face
595
00:46:38,160 --> 00:46:40,480
and I couldn't get advantage for a
while.
596
00:46:57,160 --> 00:46:58,680
I saw him get in this wave,
597
00:46:58,760 --> 00:47:01,455
and well when I saw him standing, I
thought, "He's inside too".
598
00:47:01,520 --> 00:47:05,280
And, you know, when you're there,
sometimes, you need to take the risk.
599
00:47:32,200 --> 00:47:35,160
And he was standing the whole time
going down the wave.
600
00:47:35,280 --> 00:47:36,800
I thought that he would jump.
601
00:48:15,800 --> 00:48:18,119
Do you know what happened, and some
of the surfer here today,
602
00:48:18,120 --> 00:48:20,240
you know, history was made, with sure.
603
00:48:21,720 --> 00:48:25,040
Yes, today was amazing, but as soon
as I took that wave,
604
00:48:25,160 --> 00:48:27,840
the reality hit and all that he could
think of, was in DK.
605
00:48:46,200 --> 00:48:48,560
Nothing was broken, nothing fractured.
606
00:48:48,640 --> 00:48:50,880
All exams and echoes were good.
607
00:48:51,480 --> 00:48:54,200
Now, for the next month, I have to
use this cervical collar,
608
00:48:55,320 --> 00:49:00,040
and through that rest for a time, and
wait for my body to recover.
609
00:49:05,600 --> 00:49:07,760
It has been a January intensive.
610
00:49:08,240 --> 00:49:12,760
A week ago, we had one of the
greatest days I've ever seen
611
00:49:12,840 --> 00:49:15,480
with winds, clean in my entire life
here.
612
00:49:15,880 --> 00:49:19,280
I just felt I never would see
everything
613
00:49:19,360 --> 00:49:20,660
happen again,
614
00:49:20,680 --> 00:49:23,400
until we are really old, cheering on
a cliff.
615
00:49:24,440 --> 00:49:28,240
And then, a great system that
appeared in the middle of the Pacific,
616
00:49:28,320 --> 00:49:29,960
and here we are.
617
00:49:30,040 --> 00:49:31,440
28 JANUARY
618
00:49:31,920 --> 00:49:33,199
Forecast to 4.5 m in 20 seconds Front
Height Estimated: 20m
619
00:49:33,200 --> 00:49:35,800
Simply to have another chance with
conditions like this
620
00:49:35,880 --> 00:49:41,440
it's... kinda made me take a step
back and appreciate a little more
621
00:49:41,520 --> 00:49:43,400
by the tides that we are having now.
622
00:49:45,520 --> 00:49:48,389
I thought that my winter had ended
after you leave the hospital,
623
00:49:48,400 --> 00:49:50,560
then I got high of doctors in Los
Angeles.
624
00:49:50,640 --> 00:49:52,161
He said that everything was in place.
625
00:49:52,280 --> 00:49:55,160
I am very grateful. I never thought
that would happen.
626
00:49:56,960 --> 00:50:00,720
And it was horrible for him not being
able to surf, but he is, without a
doubt,
627
00:50:00,800 --> 00:50:03,000
the best guy on the jet ski, doing
the security.
628
00:50:03,120 --> 00:50:06,760
So I think on the whole, the group
feels much more comfortable and
confident,
629
00:50:06,840 --> 00:50:08,360
just by having it in the water.
630
00:50:08,640 --> 00:50:10,320
Sure, it's Greg.
631
00:50:26,960 --> 00:50:29,090
Pay attention to Greg, boys. Pay
attention to it.
632
00:50:29,120 --> 00:50:30,420
I've taken it.
633
00:50:31,600 --> 00:50:32,900
Victory.
634
00:50:33,480 --> 00:50:37,360
In this sport, you definitely want to
see your friends leave as well.
635
00:50:37,480 --> 00:50:39,520
For Greg, he picked up a wave a few
years ago...
636
00:50:39,600 --> 00:50:40,519
October 2012
637
00:50:40,520 --> 00:50:43,080
...that was the best tube already
caught in the Jaws.
638
00:50:47,920 --> 00:50:51,760
And while crossing, he fell, flying
out of the tube.
639
00:50:56,000 --> 00:50:58,760
He called for tripping at the finish
line.
640
00:51:00,760 --> 00:51:02,720
You simply see how much time and
energy
641
00:51:02,800 --> 00:51:05,320
will in each of these waves that are
ridden
642
00:51:05,440 --> 00:51:08,720
and how long does it take to get a
day like this,
643
00:51:08,920 --> 00:51:12,360
and it was very cool to see
everything going right for Greg today.
644
00:51:29,880 --> 00:51:33,360
He grabbed a tube and came out. You
could almost see
645
00:51:33,480 --> 00:51:36,960
all the energy and work that were
employed in that wave,
646
00:51:37,040 --> 00:51:38,400
type, coming out of it.
647
00:51:38,560 --> 00:51:39,860
Good, Greg!
648
00:51:41,720 --> 00:51:44,040
We have Dorian surfing.
649
00:52:18,240 --> 00:52:19,920
Part of what Jaws is, it's like,
650
00:52:20,160 --> 00:52:22,640
you surf for six hours,
651
00:52:22,840 --> 00:52:25,520
you can only have a good opportunity
in a wave.
652
00:52:42,840 --> 00:52:47,600
About four hours later, I picked up
one of the best waves I've had there.
653
00:53:51,240 --> 00:53:53,040
Everything finally fell into place.
654
00:53:53,240 --> 00:53:57,560
Rather than focusing on the goal of
surfing the biggest wave of his life,
655
00:53:57,920 --> 00:54:00,000
it's more of taking a step back
656
00:54:00,080 --> 00:54:01,800
and appreciate all the small things
657
00:54:02,000 --> 00:54:03,720
which have brought thee there, and
live these days.
658
00:54:05,880 --> 00:54:08,160
The last El Niño was in 1998.
659
00:54:08,680 --> 00:54:11,280
There were only four El Niños of
truth, in 40 years.
660
00:54:12,040 --> 00:54:13,880
The best big waves that already vi.
661
00:54:14,000 --> 00:54:16,680
I've been surfing big waves for 25
years.
662
00:54:19,840 --> 00:54:23,840
Ian chose a path that really serves
him.
663
00:54:24,040 --> 00:54:27,680
Simply I am blessed as a father.
664
00:54:34,280 --> 00:54:38,760
Part of surfing is simply to look at
what comes after.
665
00:54:40,680 --> 00:54:41,980
It is true what they say.
666
00:54:42,040 --> 00:54:45,200
The greater the adversity, the
greater the achievement.
667
00:54:45,520 --> 00:54:48,720
And for me, no matter the size of the
waves,
668
00:54:48,880 --> 00:54:50,640
or stepping into the unknown,
669
00:54:51,000 --> 00:54:52,300
this is where I want to be.
670
00:00:01,250 --> 00:00:10,500
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