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ROBERT BALLARD: I've dedicated
my life to exploring the unknown.
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I've been places no one else
has ever gone.
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00:00:20,821 --> 00:00:24,121
I've seen life no human eye
has ever seen.
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00:00:24,258 --> 00:00:25,726
It's my passion.
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I found the Titanic.
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God damn!
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I've survived crushing depths
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and a rogue wave.
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But even after 50 years at sea,
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I'm as fascinated with the deep
as I was on my very first expedition.
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You want to know
my most important discovery?
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Well, it's the one
I'm about to make.
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I'm Dr. Robert Ballard.
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Come with me
into the alien deep.
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NARRATOR: Everywhere we look
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it seems the oceans
are unleashing their fury.
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These could be flukes,
part of a natural cycle,
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or signs of dangerous
global change.
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BALLARD: Man has always been
challenged by the sea,
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and just when we think
we've conquered its violent moods,
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the planet seems to be
upping the ante.
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But is that really the case?
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And if so, why?
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So that's what
I'm trying to find out.
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NARRATOR: To most of us,
this is the ocean.
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00:02:07,227 --> 00:02:09,992
But when Dr. Robert Ballard
looks at the water,
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he sees something
very different...
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Something straight out
of a horror movie.
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[thunder cracks]
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Stronger storms, higher seas,
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and lurking in the deep,
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monsters with the power
to eat ships whole.
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Few have met up with rogue waves
like these and survived.
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Ballard is one of
the lucky ones.
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BALLARD: Yeah, my first introduction
to a rogue wave,
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ironically, was on the first time
I went to sea,
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on my first
oceanographic expedition.
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I was 17 years old,
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and we were in
a tremendous storm
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in the North Pacific Ocean.
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We were in 45-foot swells,
15-meter waves were coming at us.
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It was like
a roller coaster ride.
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And I was up on the bridge,
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and all of a sudden
this monstrous wave
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just comes looming out of
the sea right in front of us.
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Smashes right into the bridge,
destroys the bridge,
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all the windows were knocked out,
blew out the portholes,
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took away the mast,
and we almost sank.
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00:04:02,642 --> 00:04:04,371
And I was hooked for life.
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What a, what a wave.
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I was too young to be afraid.
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I was in awe.
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NARRATOR: Mariners have been telling
tales of rogue waves for centuries.
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Massive walls of water that tower
over the seas around them.
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1981.
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A huge wave blasts an oil rig
off the Atlantic coast of Canada,
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killing all 84 people on board.
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00:04:44,117 --> 00:04:46,677
1995.
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Another rogue breaks over
a luxury liner's bow
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and carries off a forward mast.
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BALLARD: Lots of ships
that just vanish without a trace
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are hit by rogue waves,
because you have absolutely no time.
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It just happens,
you don't see it coming.
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So you have no chance
to get off a message.
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You just disappear.
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NARRATOR: Which is why actual measurements of
these giants
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were so hard to come by...
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until one day in January 1995.
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Hurricane force winds blast
a Norwegian oil rig.
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Workers evacuate the deck.
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But just below, pointing straight down
at the oncoming seas,
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a laser range finder detects
one giant wave after another.
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25 feet.
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30 feet.
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28 feet.
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Then, at 3:20 PM,
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the instrument spikes.
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A 75-foot monster
hammers the rig.
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The platform survives
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and the world gets its first
incontrovertible proof
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of just how big
rogue waves can be.
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BALLARD: What you get is you get
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two different wave patterns
that intersect.
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And normally they cancel
one another out,
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00:06:43,203 --> 00:06:45,228
but if you do it just right,
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you can get them to add up
and then...
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have them shoot like that.
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And that's a rogue wave.
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And you don't want to be there
when that happens.
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NARRATOR:
If, as Ballard suspects,
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these waves,
and the storms that spawn them,
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are getting bigger,
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we're in for a rough ride.
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Already, one large ship goes down
on the high seas every month.
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Not to mention hundreds
of smaller vessels.
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BALLARD: A ship a month.
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Think about that.
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And if the seas are
getting rougher,
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that number's only going up.
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NARRATOR: As a longtime mariner,
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Ballard can guess where
the hotspots are likely to be.
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The Cape of Good Hope is also known
as the "Cape of Storms."
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JEAN PIERRE ARABONIS:
It is at the moment
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the choke of shipping
in the world.
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No one really wants to go through
the Suez Canal anymore,
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00:08:05,585 --> 00:08:08,452
because you've got to run
the gauntlet of the pirates.
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Pirates are not predictable.
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00:08:12,392 --> 00:08:15,225
So take your chances
with the storms.
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00:08:16,696 --> 00:08:18,494
NARRATOR: Tucked away in
a remote field office
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high above the Cape,
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00:08:20,266 --> 00:08:23,531
oceanographer Jean Pierre Arabonis
has made a career
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00:08:23,670 --> 00:08:27,971
out of predicting dangerous seas
and rogue waves.
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His forecasts can mean life or death
for hundreds of sailors.
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ARABONIS: I kind of built
my business around this.
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I think I've got a bit of a feel
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as to where these things
are going to occur
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a bit more often
than anywhere else.
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But it's a mixture of
science and intuition.
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NARRATOR:
Arabonis sounds the alarm
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00:08:51,164 --> 00:08:54,498
when storms kick up swells
from the southwest.
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00:08:57,437 --> 00:08:59,428
Instead of just creating chop,
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00:08:59,572 --> 00:09:04,203
the waves barrel into a driving current
from the northeast,
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00:09:04,344 --> 00:09:07,575
which stacks them up into
immense walls of water.
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00:09:16,056 --> 00:09:17,683
ARABONIS: And that's where
you really don't want to be,
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00:09:17,824 --> 00:09:19,622
certainly when there's a storm,
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00:09:19,759 --> 00:09:22,126
when there's strong
southwesterly winds.
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00:09:22,262 --> 00:09:25,562
This whole area can become
completely unpredictable.
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00:09:25,698 --> 00:09:29,965
And if we can't predict,
you don't want to be there.
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00:09:30,103 --> 00:09:33,004
BALLARD: The captains,
often they have no choice.
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00:09:33,139 --> 00:09:35,836
Riding the current saves time,
and time is money,
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00:09:35,975 --> 00:09:39,240
so usually they'll take the risk
and plow right through it.
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ARABONIS: It's very difficult
when you take a look at a ship
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00:09:45,685 --> 00:09:50,054
and it's 20,000 tons
and it's 200 meters long.
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You think it's not vulnerable.
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00:09:52,659 --> 00:09:54,218
But it is.
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In the right conditions,
that ship can fill up with water
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00:09:58,398 --> 00:10:00,765
and be gone in minutes.
138
00:10:03,403 --> 00:10:04,700
BALLARD:
That's a terrible way to go,
139
00:10:04,838 --> 00:10:07,933
and if storms continue
to increase in intensity,
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00:10:08,074 --> 00:10:10,236
it's gonna be a problem
all over the world.
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00:10:10,376 --> 00:10:13,368
Not just in South Africa,
but everywhere.
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00:10:29,963 --> 00:10:32,591
NARRATOR: If Ballard wants to know
about angry oceans,
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00:10:32,732 --> 00:10:34,564
there's one place to look.
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00:10:34,701 --> 00:10:37,830
And it's not out on the water.
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00:10:37,971 --> 00:10:39,905
This is Lloyd's of London,
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00:10:40,039 --> 00:10:44,806
one of the most important
insurance providers in the world.
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00:10:44,944 --> 00:10:48,039
BALLARD: Lloyd's really dominates
the insurance market
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00:10:48,181 --> 00:10:51,481
for maritime insurance.
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00:10:51,618 --> 00:10:55,282
I, myself, have insurance
from Lloyd's.
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00:10:55,421 --> 00:10:56,388
It just went up.
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00:10:56,523 --> 00:10:58,582
[chuckles]
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NARRATOR: The firm has kept
records of shipwrecks
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00:11:00,827 --> 00:11:03,694
for more than 300 years.
154
00:11:03,830 --> 00:11:06,800
BALLARD: Sunk in deep water.
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00:11:06,933 --> 00:11:08,196
Broke in two.
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00:11:08,334 --> 00:11:11,133
Cape Town Rescue Centre.
157
00:11:11,271 --> 00:11:14,730
Bulk carrier out of Malta.
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00:11:14,874 --> 00:11:20,779
This is the log of the ships that
Lloyd's of London insured
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00:11:20,914 --> 00:11:23,281
that were lost at sea.
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00:11:27,754 --> 00:11:28,949
NARRATOR: 100 years ago,
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00:11:29,088 --> 00:11:32,683
most of the losses were
due to poor navigation.
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00:11:32,825 --> 00:11:36,989
This year, piracy is
also taking its toll.
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00:11:37,130 --> 00:11:38,188
But in the future,
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00:11:38,331 --> 00:11:41,528
Lloyd's anticipates that bigger storms
and stronger waves
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00:11:41,668 --> 00:11:45,298
will grow as risk factors
for ocean disasters.
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00:11:47,807 --> 00:11:49,866
It's confirmation
of what Ballard and others
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00:11:50,009 --> 00:11:53,343
think they're seeing
out on the water.
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00:11:53,479 --> 00:11:54,571
BALLARD: Every attempt is made
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00:11:54,714 --> 00:12:00,847
to limit a ship's
probability of sinking.
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00:12:00,987 --> 00:12:02,716
And Lloyd's is very keenly interested
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00:12:02,855 --> 00:12:05,256
in making sure that that occurs.
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00:12:05,391 --> 00:12:07,155
But then there's just
acts of God,
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00:12:07,293 --> 00:12:10,820
acts of Mother Nature,
acts of the earth.
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00:12:10,964 --> 00:12:14,332
And they are starting
to see trends
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00:12:14,467 --> 00:12:17,232
that the ocean's getting angrier.
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00:12:19,973 --> 00:12:23,841
NARRATOR: If the trends continue,
the results could be devastating.
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90% of traded merchandise
travels across the high seas,
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00:12:29,515 --> 00:12:33,850
carrying some $13.5 trillion
worth of goods.
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00:12:38,157 --> 00:12:41,593
Nowhere are the stakes higher
than off the coast of Oregon,
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00:12:41,728 --> 00:12:45,426
where the raging Columbia River
meets the howling North Pacific.
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00:12:47,133 --> 00:12:51,161
Ballard has come to meet the men
who ply these dangerous waters.
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00:12:51,304 --> 00:12:55,502
Dan Jordan is one of these
boat pilots on the front lines.
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00:12:55,642 --> 00:12:57,974
If anyone were to notice
changes on the ocean,
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00:12:58,111 --> 00:12:59,977
it would be Dan.
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00:13:01,581 --> 00:13:04,278
His job-
steer massive cargo ships safely
186
00:13:04,417 --> 00:13:07,580
through the roiling waters
and ever-shifting channel-
187
00:13:07,720 --> 00:13:11,315
one of the most treacherous
stretches of water in North America.
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00:13:12,625 --> 00:13:15,686
BALLARD: They call it
the "Graveyard of the Pacific" for a reason.
189
00:13:15,828 --> 00:13:18,593
Some 2,000 ships
have gone down here.
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00:13:18,731 --> 00:13:23,464
And these guys are out in it
365 days a year.
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00:13:24,704 --> 00:13:28,106
NARRATOR: The channel is the gateway
to the Pacific Northwest.
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00:13:29,542 --> 00:13:32,603
Thousands of ships and
billions of dollars' worth of goods
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00:13:32,745 --> 00:13:35,737
pass through here every year.
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00:13:35,882 --> 00:13:38,442
BALLARD: I think
very few people realize
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00:13:38,584 --> 00:13:43,181
how much of America's economy,
going in or going out,
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00:13:43,323 --> 00:13:45,348
is by sea.
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00:13:45,491 --> 00:13:47,289
You don't load wheat
on airplanes,
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00:13:47,427 --> 00:13:48,861
and there's no trains.
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00:13:48,995 --> 00:13:49,928
It stops here
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00:13:50,063 --> 00:13:53,397
and there's only one way
to get across the Pacific,
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00:13:53,533 --> 00:13:55,695
whether you're going
east or west,
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00:13:55,835 --> 00:13:57,997
and it's by ships.
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00:14:00,807 --> 00:14:02,707
NARRATOR: To guide the ships
through the channel,
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00:14:02,842 --> 00:14:05,436
the pilots first have
to get on board.
205
00:14:07,080 --> 00:14:10,448
Option one is
a vomit-inducing jet boat.
206
00:14:21,394 --> 00:14:24,921
Even on a calm day,
it can be lethal.
207
00:14:25,064 --> 00:14:26,828
The team recently lost a pilot
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00:14:26,966 --> 00:14:28,900
when he fell from a ladder
in big waves
209
00:14:29,035 --> 00:14:31,333
and the current
dragged him out to sea.
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00:14:57,463 --> 00:14:59,397
BALLARD: So, typical day
at the office for you?
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00:14:59,532 --> 00:15:00,897
DAN JORDAN: Typical day.
212
00:15:05,438 --> 00:15:07,930
NARRATOR: Option two,
the safe option,
213
00:15:08,074 --> 00:15:10,566
is dangling from a helicopter.
214
00:15:11,611 --> 00:15:13,636
But with high winds, rough seas,
215
00:15:13,780 --> 00:15:17,341
and a six-story supertanker
rocking and rolling below,
216
00:15:17,483 --> 00:15:19,679
it doesn't seem all that safe
to Ballard.
217
00:15:19,819 --> 00:15:21,787
MAN ON RADIO: Man's going out
the cabin door,
218
00:15:21,921 --> 00:15:23,889
going out the cabin door.
219
00:15:24,023 --> 00:15:26,014
Man is at the cabin door.
220
00:15:26,159 --> 00:15:28,890
Man's going down,
man's going down.
221
00:15:30,463 --> 00:15:32,761
NARRATOR: The seasoned explorer
has boarded lots of ships
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00:15:32,899 --> 00:15:34,663
in his 50 years at sea,
223
00:15:34,801 --> 00:15:37,133
but never quite like this.
224
00:16:06,365 --> 00:16:08,390
Once on board,
Ballard and the pilots
225
00:16:08,534 --> 00:16:11,060
quickly find their way
to the bridge.
226
00:16:12,638 --> 00:16:14,299
The pilots take command
of the ship
227
00:16:14,440 --> 00:16:17,705
for the final leg into port.
228
00:16:17,844 --> 00:16:19,312
BALLARD: You know,
you can steer your ship
229
00:16:19,445 --> 00:16:20,310
all the way around the world,
230
00:16:20,446 --> 00:16:23,882
but you need a pilot
for the last stretch.
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00:16:24,016 --> 00:16:26,485
The currents change,
they're changing all the time.
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00:16:26,619 --> 00:16:31,079
And only the pilot knows which route
to take on any given day.
233
00:16:31,224 --> 00:16:32,658
JORDAN:
Well, you're always on edge.
234
00:16:32,792 --> 00:16:35,352
Your senses are always alert
to what's happening,
235
00:16:35,495 --> 00:16:38,123
but you also try
and keep it calm.
236
00:16:38,264 --> 00:16:41,131
So even if it is a rough,
tense situation-
237
00:16:41,267 --> 00:16:43,133
big seas or something
of that nature-
238
00:16:43,269 --> 00:16:46,967
it's real important
to keep things calm.
239
00:16:47,106 --> 00:16:50,736
NARRATOR: But even then,
bad things can happen.
240
00:16:50,877 --> 00:16:52,641
Waves stall engines,
241
00:16:52,778 --> 00:16:55,577
the wind pushes ships
toward the shoals.
242
00:16:56,916 --> 00:17:00,784
In bad weather,
the three-mile transit can take hours.
243
00:17:05,091 --> 00:17:07,685
Dan knows these waters
as well as anyone.
244
00:17:07,827 --> 00:17:11,092
And lately, he's seeing
a disturbing change.
245
00:17:12,498 --> 00:17:13,556
BALLARD: Weather patterns are,
246
00:17:13,699 --> 00:17:15,599
I mean, obviously
changing dramatically,
247
00:17:15,735 --> 00:17:19,899
and that there's actually increased
height in the swells?
248
00:17:20,039 --> 00:17:22,667
JORDAN: Yeah, we've been watching
that for a few years now,
249
00:17:22,808 --> 00:17:25,334
probably three or four years
in particular.
250
00:17:25,478 --> 00:17:27,845
The scientists are all saying that
wave heights are increasing
251
00:17:27,980 --> 00:17:30,472
and storm intensity's increasing.
252
00:17:30,616 --> 00:17:33,108
And we are seeing
some evidence of that.
253
00:17:35,388 --> 00:17:36,719
NARRATOR:
According to one study,
254
00:17:36,856 --> 00:17:38,187
the biggest waves in this region
255
00:17:38,324 --> 00:17:41,316
have risen 10 feet
since the mid 1970s,
256
00:17:41,460 --> 00:17:42,985
and models project
that they may rise
257
00:17:43,129 --> 00:17:47,293
as much as 50 feet
over the next 100 years.
258
00:17:47,433 --> 00:17:51,301
That's the difference between
a three- and five-story building.
259
00:17:55,741 --> 00:17:59,006
These increases, as well as
the bigger storms behind them,
260
00:17:59,145 --> 00:18:01,170
cause Dan and his team
to shut down the port
261
00:18:01,314 --> 00:18:04,284
several times every year.
262
00:18:04,417 --> 00:18:06,715
BALLARD: Now that's something
they don't do lightly,
263
00:18:06,852 --> 00:18:10,652
because if the port closes,
it backs up the whole country.
264
00:18:10,790 --> 00:18:13,953
You've got cargo trains and trucks
grounded in their depots.
265
00:18:14,093 --> 00:18:16,562
Your new cars don't
get to their lots.
266
00:18:16,696 --> 00:18:19,688
Farmers in the Midwest
are sitting on their wheat.
267
00:18:19,832 --> 00:18:22,426
It's surprising how fast
that can all happen.
268
00:18:27,006 --> 00:18:28,974
I imagine it gets
sort of tense at times?
269
00:18:29,108 --> 00:18:30,439
JORDAN: Yeah, there's always
a lot of pressure
270
00:18:30,576 --> 00:18:33,602
to get things moving,
and that's part of our job.
271
00:18:35,414 --> 00:18:36,882
BALLARD: It's a constant battle.
272
00:18:37,016 --> 00:18:38,984
It's man against nature,
273
00:18:39,118 --> 00:18:42,281
and maybe nature may be winning.
274
00:18:48,794 --> 00:18:52,424
NARRATOR: One group, though,
is not overly concerned.
275
00:18:52,565 --> 00:18:56,126
For them, the bigger the wave,
the better.
276
00:19:56,495 --> 00:19:58,361
This is Teahupoo,
277
00:19:58,497 --> 00:20:01,194
Tahitian for "broken skulls."”
278
00:20:03,869 --> 00:20:07,362
One of the baddest, heaviest
waves on the planet.
279
00:20:20,119 --> 00:20:23,555
Surfers descend on Tahiti
from far and wide
280
00:20:23,689 --> 00:20:26,056
to challenge its power.
281
00:20:51,584 --> 00:20:52,483
BALLARD: These guys are nuts.
282
00:20:52,618 --> 00:20:55,849
They track conditions
all over the world.
283
00:20:55,988 --> 00:20:57,319
They have a better idea
of what's happening
284
00:20:57,456 --> 00:20:59,117
than most meteorologists.
285
00:20:59,258 --> 00:21:00,953
In fact, if changes
are happening,
286
00:21:01,093 --> 00:21:05,121
these are the folks who are probably
gonna notice them first.
287
00:21:17,576 --> 00:21:21,342
NARRATOR: The master of
wave forecasting is Sean Collins.
288
00:21:22,615 --> 00:21:23,639
SEAN COLLINS: I surf,
289
00:21:23,783 --> 00:21:26,013
and I found a way to avoid
getting a real job
290
00:21:26,152 --> 00:21:28,484
by starting a surf company.
291
00:21:35,728 --> 00:21:38,356
NARRATOR: Once upon a time,
surfers were beach bums,
292
00:21:38,497 --> 00:21:41,467
hanging out on the sand
waiting for waves.
293
00:21:50,209 --> 00:21:51,472
Collins used science
294
00:21:51,610 --> 00:21:54,705
and his almost innate knowledge
of storms and waves
295
00:21:54,847 --> 00:21:57,111
to change that culture.
296
00:22:01,587 --> 00:22:03,919
40 years ago,
he launched Surfline,
297
00:22:04,056 --> 00:22:07,924
which incorporates satellites,
wave buoys and supercomputers
298
00:22:08,060 --> 00:22:11,428
to predict the best surf waves
around the world.
299
00:22:15,000 --> 00:22:19,028
Close to two million users
access Surfline each month.
300
00:22:21,473 --> 00:22:22,702
COLLINS: I guess you could say
301
00:22:22,842 --> 00:22:25,174
that we help supply the drugs,
so to speak,
302
00:22:25,311 --> 00:22:28,110
to, you know, keep people
on their high of surfing.
303
00:22:32,251 --> 00:22:34,652
NARRATOR: Tahitian pro
Raimana Van Bastolaer
304
00:22:34,787 --> 00:22:37,950
is a self-confessed addict.
305
00:22:38,090 --> 00:22:39,455
RAIMANA VAN BASTOLAER:
Some people have other things,
306
00:22:39,592 --> 00:22:43,028
and me, my drug
is the ocean, you know?
307
00:22:43,162 --> 00:22:46,496
That's what,
that's what we all live for.
308
00:22:50,002 --> 00:22:51,834
NARRATOR:
Thanks to Sean's forecasts,
309
00:22:51,971 --> 00:22:53,871
Raimana can start
preparing for a wave
310
00:22:54,006 --> 00:22:57,533
up to three weeks
before it arrives.
311
00:22:57,676 --> 00:22:59,735
VAN BASTOLAER:
Tuesday and Wednesday
312
00:22:59,879 --> 00:23:01,347
we're gonna get
some good swell coming.
313
00:23:01,480 --> 00:23:03,915
COLLINS:
We're forecasting this swell,
314
00:23:04,049 --> 00:23:05,312
you know, to arrive in Tahiti
315
00:23:05,451 --> 00:23:08,751
before the storm that generated
the swell even happened,
316
00:23:08,888 --> 00:23:12,381
you know, so we're, you know,
about three steps ahead.
317
00:23:12,524 --> 00:23:14,686
NARRATOR: The key is wind.
318
00:23:17,396 --> 00:23:20,855
A wave here in Tahiti
begins where all waves do-
319
00:23:21,000 --> 00:23:23,765
far out in the ocean where
wind blows continuously
320
00:23:23,903 --> 00:23:25,837
over open water.
321
00:23:28,774 --> 00:23:30,708
It starts as a ripple.
322
00:23:32,578 --> 00:23:35,206
Pushed by the wind,
it travels and grows,
323
00:23:35,347 --> 00:23:38,009
often combining
with other swells.
324
00:23:41,186 --> 00:23:45,885
Add a big storm and
it can turn into a monster.
325
00:23:51,764 --> 00:23:53,391
COLLINS: And then taking
all these wind speeds,
326
00:23:53,532 --> 00:23:55,591
we're able to calculate
waves around the earth,
327
00:23:55,734 --> 00:23:57,862
around the entire globe.
328
00:23:58,003 --> 00:24:00,995
The ideal situation for Tahiti,
329
00:24:01,140 --> 00:24:05,737
is when the storms start in this area underneath Australia
here.
330
00:24:07,646 --> 00:24:11,480
NARRATOR: Across 5,000 miles
of open windblown ocean,
331
00:24:11,617 --> 00:24:13,847
the wave can get big.
332
00:24:14,920 --> 00:24:18,584
COLLINS: And it eventually gets up to,
you know, over 50 feet.
333
00:24:18,724 --> 00:24:19,748
Obviously, if you're in a ship,
334
00:24:19,892 --> 00:24:21,826
you do not want to be
in this area,
335
00:24:21,961 --> 00:24:24,089
but us as surfers,
you know, we're looking this,
336
00:24:24,229 --> 00:24:26,630
and we're all excited.
337
00:24:26,765 --> 00:24:28,961
Everybody's making their reservations
to go to Teahupoo.
338
00:24:29,101 --> 00:24:30,125
Raimana is on the phone,
339
00:24:30,269 --> 00:24:32,829
"Hey, Brother Sean,
how's the swell looking?" You know.
340
00:24:32,972 --> 00:24:35,441
And, you know, we're,
we're going to go chase it.
341
00:24:38,210 --> 00:24:39,644
NARRATOR: Accurate wind speed measurements
342
00:24:39,778 --> 00:24:43,112
are critical to the forecast.
343
00:24:43,248 --> 00:24:47,151
A three-mile-per-hour miscalculation
in a storm off New Zealand
344
00:24:47,286 --> 00:24:49,220
can mean a four-foot difference
in swell height
345
00:24:49,355 --> 00:24:51,915
by the time it reaches Tahiti.
346
00:24:53,225 --> 00:24:56,559
And it could arrive
one day early or late.
347
00:24:58,931 --> 00:25:00,763
COLLINS: And you know,
as our customers are surfers,
348
00:25:00,899 --> 00:25:03,300
if we're telling them
there's going to be a swell tomorrow
349
00:25:03,435 --> 00:25:05,267
and it doesn't show up
till the day after tomorrow,
350
00:25:05,404 --> 00:25:08,704
believe me,
they're going to hate us.
351
00:25:08,841 --> 00:25:10,468
NARRATOR: Good thing
for Sean and Raimana.
352
00:25:10,609 --> 00:25:15,012
Sean claims Surfline's forecasts
are 95% accurate.
353
00:25:17,883 --> 00:25:22,684
Today, Raimana's got word that
big rollers are on their way in.
354
00:25:27,059 --> 00:25:28,720
As it approaches Tahiti,
355
00:25:28,861 --> 00:25:31,159
the wave is still
mostly underwater,
356
00:25:31,296 --> 00:25:33,628
only feeling the bottom
when it gets shallow,
357
00:25:33,766 --> 00:25:35,962
about a half mile offshore.
358
00:25:37,936 --> 00:25:41,270
That's when Raimana catches
his first glimpse.
359
00:25:43,442 --> 00:25:46,571
A dark, gray bump
on the horizon.
360
00:25:47,980 --> 00:25:49,880
As the wave barrels toward shore
361
00:25:50,015 --> 00:25:52,382
at speeds of up to
60 miles per hour,
362
00:25:52,518 --> 00:25:55,613
the reef shapes it from below.
363
00:25:55,754 --> 00:25:56,812
COLLINS:
All of a sudden, they just,
364
00:25:56,955 --> 00:25:59,720
they just hit a wall underneath the ocean
that kind of stops them.
365
00:25:59,858 --> 00:26:01,883
And all that inertia
just goes whoo, you know,
366
00:26:02,027 --> 00:26:04,621
just throws all that energy straight up.
367
00:26:10,102 --> 00:26:13,197
NARRATOR: It's the moment
Raimana's been waiting for.
368
00:26:37,529 --> 00:26:40,294
VAN BASTOLAER: When she breaks,
you have the sound of it,
369
00:26:40,432 --> 00:26:41,991
you know,
how it goes on the reef,
370
00:26:42,134 --> 00:26:43,829
how it breaks, boom, boom, boom,
371
00:26:43,969 --> 00:26:47,200
and you're like [inhales]
ah, ¢'mon, you know.
372
00:26:55,080 --> 00:26:56,570
NARRATOR:
Millions of tons of force
373
00:26:56,715 --> 00:27:00,709
breaking in three feet of water,
over a razor-sharp reef.
374
00:27:02,187 --> 00:27:03,780
VAN BASTOLAER:
I'm going into that wave,
375
00:27:03,922 --> 00:27:06,619
and then the whole thing
cover me.
376
00:27:08,360 --> 00:27:10,158
And the next thing you know,
377
00:27:10,295 --> 00:27:12,195
there's this spit,
we call it the spit,
378
00:27:12,331 --> 00:27:14,732
you get sucked like this
[sucking sound]
379
00:27:14,867 --> 00:27:16,426
And the whole thing,
my hair goes,
380
00:27:16,568 --> 00:27:18,536
and my whole thing goes,
like, behind like this.
381
00:27:18,670 --> 00:27:21,139
I'm like, "Come on, come on,
just let me, let me out."
382
00:27:21,273 --> 00:27:24,436
And next thing you know,
it goes [blows].
383
00:27:30,482 --> 00:27:34,612
And then somehow
she let me go and let me out.
384
00:27:34,753 --> 00:27:35,845
You take it inside, you know,
385
00:27:35,988 --> 00:27:37,319
you're just holding
for yourself.
386
00:27:37,456 --> 00:27:39,686
You've got it, you made it,
and it's so stoked,
387
00:27:39,825 --> 00:27:43,352
you're just letting everything
out over there.
388
00:27:43,495 --> 00:27:46,487
[cheering, applause]
389
00:27:46,632 --> 00:27:48,623
And then you go,
let's go again,
390
00:27:48,767 --> 00:27:51,065
and then we're back again out,
you know?
391
00:27:54,573 --> 00:27:57,941
NARRATOR: For surf waves,
the forecasting is working.
392
00:27:59,845 --> 00:28:02,940
But predicting global changes
in the ocean and climate
393
00:28:03,081 --> 00:28:05,243
is a lot tougher to do.
394
00:28:05,384 --> 00:28:09,218
BALLARD: If we're really seeing the oceans getting more
violent,
395
00:28:09,354 --> 00:28:11,186
can we figure out why,
396
00:28:11,323 --> 00:28:13,883
and whether there is anything
we can do about it?
397
00:28:14,026 --> 00:28:15,460
That's the real challenge.
398
00:28:33,845 --> 00:28:36,837
NARRATOR: To predict if the oceans
really are getting angrier,
399
00:28:36,982 --> 00:28:41,078
scientists need to look beyond
anecdotal evidence.
400
00:28:41,220 --> 00:28:44,918
They need to understand how energy
moves around the planet.
401
00:28:46,658 --> 00:28:48,956
Ocean currents are key.
402
00:28:53,699 --> 00:28:56,259
That's why oceanographer
Bob Pickart and his team
403
00:28:56,401 --> 00:28:59,336
are out here in the frigid
North Atlantic.
404
00:29:03,275 --> 00:29:06,711
They're searching for a new arm
of the Global Conveyor-
405
00:29:06,845 --> 00:29:10,145
one of the world's most powerful
current systems.
406
00:29:11,750 --> 00:29:13,479
Climate models suggest
that the current
407
00:29:13,619 --> 00:29:15,883
lies a few hundred miles
to the west,
408
00:29:16,021 --> 00:29:17,955
off the coast of Greenland.
409
00:29:19,291 --> 00:29:21,692
But Pickart is hearing reports
that it's also been spotted
410
00:29:21,827 --> 00:29:24,319
way out here near Iceland.
411
00:29:26,865 --> 00:29:29,630
BOB PICKART: We thought we sort of
had it figured out at this point,
412
00:29:29,768 --> 00:29:32,601
and then, 10 and behold,
my Icelandic colleagues
413
00:29:32,738 --> 00:29:34,035
a few years back went out
414
00:29:34,172 --> 00:29:37,369
and accidentally discovered
another deep current
415
00:29:37,509 --> 00:29:39,739
off the continental slope
of Iceland,
416
00:29:39,878 --> 00:29:41,312
which is sort of, you know,
417
00:29:41,446 --> 00:29:43,813
turned the community
on its ear a little bit.
418
00:29:45,951 --> 00:29:48,613
NARRATOR: The Global Conveyor
is one of the most important features
419
00:29:48,754 --> 00:29:50,415
on the planet.
420
00:29:51,790 --> 00:29:53,724
It transfers heat
around the globe
421
00:29:53,859 --> 00:29:56,328
and helps keep
our climate stable.
422
00:29:59,398 --> 00:30:02,561
If Pickart can prove
his Icelandic colleagues right,
423
00:30:02,701 --> 00:30:05,864
he'd force a rethink of
how the system works.
424
00:30:07,606 --> 00:30:09,096
BALLARD: You know,
it's truly amazing.
425
00:30:09,241 --> 00:30:13,337
We know the ocean currents have
a direct impact on our climate,
426
00:30:13,478 --> 00:30:16,641
yet we don't know exactly
where all those currents are.
427
00:30:16,782 --> 00:30:19,717
Despite our efforts
to model the climate,
428
00:30:19,851 --> 00:30:22,479
it's just a prediction.
429
00:30:22,621 --> 00:30:25,283
NARRATOR: As Ballard knows
from decades on the ocean,
430
00:30:25,424 --> 00:30:28,086
it's an immensely
complex system.
431
00:30:29,227 --> 00:30:32,356
BALLARD: The ocean is
anything but static.
432
00:30:32,497 --> 00:30:33,726
If you were a water molecule
433
00:30:33,865 --> 00:30:35,799
and wanted to travel
around the planet,
434
00:30:35,934 --> 00:30:38,369
it would be like getting
in this roller coaster.
435
00:30:38,503 --> 00:30:40,767
Lots of ups, lots of downs,
436
00:30:40,906 --> 00:30:43,841
and it's a massive amount
of water that's moving.
437
00:30:55,654 --> 00:30:57,748
NARRATOR: The ride begins
north of Iceland,
438
00:30:57,889 --> 00:31:00,153
where cooling water sinks.
439
00:31:13,905 --> 00:31:17,432
The drop is slow at first,
but as the current builds,
440
00:31:17,576 --> 00:31:19,237
it gains momentum.
441
00:31:25,083 --> 00:31:29,850
Through ridges and trenches,
over lava fields and endless plains...
442
00:31:31,456 --> 00:31:34,892
the water hurtles southward
across the Equator...
443
00:31:37,129 --> 00:31:41,464
...down the coast of South America
like a giant deep-sea river.
444
00:31:45,437 --> 00:31:48,634
BALLARD: By the time this current
reaches the southern ocean,
445
00:31:48,774 --> 00:31:50,538
it gets massive.
446
00:31:50,675 --> 00:31:53,201
There's no landmass to block it.
447
00:31:53,345 --> 00:31:55,109
So it builds and builds,
448
00:31:55,247 --> 00:32:01,016
and ultimately flows with
the volume of 100 Amazon Rivers.
449
00:32:05,157 --> 00:32:06,682
NARRATOR;:
At the bottom of the world,
450
00:32:06,825 --> 00:32:09,522
the southern ocean acts
like a giant blender,
451
00:32:09,661 --> 00:32:12,289
mixing the world's seawater.
452
00:32:12,431 --> 00:32:13,660
BALLARD: Then it comes back north again,
453
00:32:13,799 --> 00:32:15,392
and when it gets to the tropics,
454
00:32:15,534 --> 00:32:18,868
it starts to warm up and
begins to rise to the surface.
455
00:32:19,004 --> 00:32:22,338
It becomes the Gulf Stream now
and starts heading back home.
456
00:32:22,474 --> 00:32:25,671
The whole circuit
takes 1,000 years.
457
00:32:26,678 --> 00:32:28,407
NARRATOR: 1,000 years!
458
00:32:28,547 --> 00:32:31,676
And yet the continual cycling
of all that heat and energy
459
00:32:31,817 --> 00:32:34,582
affects everything from
long-term climate change
460
00:32:34,719 --> 00:32:37,120
to daily weather forecasts.
461
00:32:39,591 --> 00:32:42,151
BALLARD: We've got water rising,
falling, spinning,
462
00:32:42,294 --> 00:32:44,456
circulating,
bumping into things.
463
00:32:44,596 --> 00:32:47,395
And we try to take
all of those complex factors,
464
00:32:47,532 --> 00:32:49,159
put them into a global model,
465
00:32:49,301 --> 00:32:51,736
and come up with
a circulation system.
466
00:32:51,870 --> 00:32:53,634
Our best shot.
467
00:32:56,842 --> 00:32:58,332
NARRATOR: Of course,
models are only as good
468
00:32:58,477 --> 00:33:00,673
as the information
they're based on.
469
00:33:00,812 --> 00:33:02,246
And back in the North Atlantic,
470
00:33:02,380 --> 00:33:04,474
Pickart is discovering
that we do, indeed,
471
00:33:04,616 --> 00:33:07,984
have a new arm of the current
to worry about.
472
00:33:09,955 --> 00:33:13,220
To find out what impact it has,
he now has to calculate
473
00:33:13,358 --> 00:33:16,555
how much water it adds
to the Global Conveyor.
474
00:33:17,963 --> 00:33:20,625
BALLARD: We're now hearing that
rising atmospheric temperatures
475
00:33:20,765 --> 00:33:23,598
are going to alter
the ocean's circulation pattern.
476
00:33:23,735 --> 00:33:25,760
And ironically,
Europe, for example,
477
00:33:25,904 --> 00:33:27,463
will get colder and colder.
478
00:33:27,606 --> 00:33:29,904
But we're not really going to know
until we better understand
479
00:33:30,041 --> 00:33:33,341
how the entire system works.
480
00:33:33,478 --> 00:33:36,539
NARRATOR: Pickart's work is
a step in the right direction.
481
00:33:36,681 --> 00:33:38,615
PICKART: We're predicting that
about half of the dense water
482
00:33:38,750 --> 00:33:41,776
is actually flowing in this current
that we just discovered.
483
00:33:41,920 --> 00:33:42,853
So if that's the case,
484
00:33:42,988 --> 00:33:45,514
we need to learn more about
where it comes from,
485
00:33:45,657 --> 00:33:49,855
how it was formed, because
it's crucially important.
486
00:33:49,995 --> 00:33:52,157
NARRATOR: While scientists like Pickart
race to understand
487
00:33:52,297 --> 00:33:55,130
long-term changes to
the Global Conveyor,
488
00:33:55,267 --> 00:33:58,396
others are already
feeling their impact.
489
00:34:01,640 --> 00:34:04,075
In the deadly waters off South Africa,
490
00:34:04,209 --> 00:34:06,837
generations of fishermen
like lan Cooke
491
00:34:06,978 --> 00:34:08,912
have fished a segment
of the Global Conveyor
492
00:34:09,047 --> 00:34:10,811
called the Aghulas Current,
493
00:34:10,949 --> 00:34:13,509
which hugs
the South African coastline.
494
00:34:15,086 --> 00:34:17,612
That's where the tuna are.
495
00:34:17,756 --> 00:34:20,817
IAN COOKE: The fish sort of live
on the edges of the currents.
496
00:34:20,959 --> 00:34:23,656
If we don't get the current,
we won't get the fish.
497
00:34:23,795 --> 00:34:24,785
Just how it works.
498
00:34:24,930 --> 00:34:28,423
Right weather, right water, that's it.
499
00:34:29,534 --> 00:34:31,502
NARRATOR: Problem is,
recent climate patterns
500
00:34:31,636 --> 00:34:34,071
seem to have forced
the current-and the fish-
501
00:34:34,205 --> 00:34:36,071
further offshore.
502
00:34:40,245 --> 00:34:41,735
COOKE: Very unusual.
503
00:34:41,880 --> 00:34:44,349
It's almost like the current's
missing us, you know,
504
00:34:44,482 --> 00:34:47,452
instead of the water
pushing in by us,
505
00:34:47,586 --> 00:34:50,055
it's forcing us west.
506
00:34:50,188 --> 00:34:52,179
And that makes it difficult.
507
00:34:57,062 --> 00:34:59,963
NARRATOR: The shifting current
means more days at sea,
508
00:35:00,098 --> 00:35:03,728
higher fuel costs,
and rougher water.
509
00:35:08,106 --> 00:35:10,871
COOKE: Nine out of ten times,
when the weather's the worst,
510
00:35:11,009 --> 00:35:13,205
that's the best fishing.
511
00:35:13,345 --> 00:35:17,976
So, you know, we sort of fish, like,
on the limit of the fronts, you know?
512
00:35:18,116 --> 00:35:21,245
On the leading edges of it,
so we try not to be there.
513
00:35:21,386 --> 00:35:25,118
But, I mean, the weather changes
hourly here, so,
514
00:35:25,256 --> 00:35:27,486
you get caught,
you get caught, you know?
515
00:35:29,361 --> 00:35:32,194
NARRATOR:
It's a risk all fishermen take.
516
00:35:32,330 --> 00:35:35,231
But the further out
they go to chase fish,
517
00:35:35,367 --> 00:35:37,392
the greater the danger.
518
00:35:46,277 --> 00:35:48,177
COOKE: We're adapting as we speak.
519
00:35:48,313 --> 00:35:49,280
I mean, that's
what's happening now.
520
00:35:49,414 --> 00:35:51,576
We're adapting to
the weather conditions,
521
00:35:51,716 --> 00:35:53,184
the ocean conditions.
522
00:35:53,318 --> 00:35:55,650
If you don't adapt,
you're going to drop out.
523
00:36:11,870 --> 00:36:14,771
NARRATOR: And currents are
only part of the equation.
524
00:36:17,008 --> 00:36:19,807
To truly understand how
the oceans are changing,
525
00:36:19,944 --> 00:36:20,934
we have to look at all the ways
526
00:36:21,079 --> 00:36:24,344
the ocean water gets
circulated and mixed.
527
00:36:28,353 --> 00:36:32,312
For over a century, scientists
thought currents, winds and tides
528
00:36:32,457 --> 00:36:34,653
did all the mixing-
529
00:36:34,793 --> 00:36:37,091
not only churning
the roller coaster,
530
00:36:37,228 --> 00:36:41,461
but also moving vast amounts
of heat, gases and nutrients.
531
00:36:44,402 --> 00:36:47,269
BALLARD: All that mixing is what
keeps the oceans alive and fresh.
532
00:36:47,405 --> 00:36:49,237
The problem is,
when you add it all up,
533
00:36:49,374 --> 00:36:51,274
the energy needed to do it,
534
00:36:51,409 --> 00:36:54,970
there's just no way currents,
tides and wind can do it all.
535
00:36:56,414 --> 00:36:59,509
So clearly, there's got to be
some other input.
536
00:37:04,689 --> 00:37:06,589
NARRATOR:
Bioengineer Kakani Katija
537
00:37:06,725 --> 00:37:09,888
thinks she's homing in
on just that missing link.
538
00:37:14,265 --> 00:37:16,893
KAKANI KATIJA: It's, you know,
kind of the human tendency
539
00:37:17,035 --> 00:37:20,938
to study things that are, you know,
easily observable, right?
540
00:37:21,072 --> 00:37:23,803
So, all of us can see
at the surface of the ocean,
541
00:37:23,942 --> 00:37:27,742
you know, atmospheric winds,
winds create waves.
542
00:37:27,879 --> 00:37:31,110
And what we don't see
is what's happening
543
00:37:31,249 --> 00:37:33,343
in the mid layers
of the ocean.
544
00:37:33,485 --> 00:37:35,579
What is happening deeper?
545
00:37:36,888 --> 00:37:39,084
May I hand this to you?
546
00:37:39,224 --> 00:37:42,524
NARRATOR: No matter how turbulent
surface waves and tides may be,
547
00:37:42,660 --> 00:37:45,686
some estimate that only about
10% of their energy
548
00:37:45,830 --> 00:37:48,595
trickles down to deeper depths.
549
00:37:48,733 --> 00:37:51,259
Not enough to churn much ocean.
550
00:37:51,402 --> 00:37:53,496
KATIJA: And that's where,
you know, potentially,
551
00:37:53,638 --> 00:37:56,073
animals could be involved.
552
00:37:56,207 --> 00:37:58,767
We're finding that
swimming animals
553
00:37:58,910 --> 00:38:02,904
have the potential
to mix the ocean.
554
00:38:06,451 --> 00:38:08,510
NARRATOR: Animals!
555
00:38:08,653 --> 00:38:11,850
Everything from
jellies and sardines
556
00:38:11,990 --> 00:38:15,517
right on up to tuna and whales,
557
00:38:15,660 --> 00:38:19,756
all moving vast amounts of water
as they swim.
558
00:38:30,909 --> 00:38:34,072
Kakani wants to measure
just how much.
559
00:38:41,953 --> 00:38:44,581
It's called the butterfly effect.
560
00:38:46,124 --> 00:38:48,786
When something small like this...
561
00:38:54,499 --> 00:38:57,400
...ultimately gives rise
to something big...
562
00:38:59,504 --> 00:39:01,097
...like this.
563
00:39:06,511 --> 00:39:08,843
It's an effect
nearly impossible to measure,
564
00:39:08,980 --> 00:39:11,039
let alone incorporate
into climate models
565
00:39:11,182 --> 00:39:14,083
that tell us if the oceans
are getting angrier.
566
00:39:15,486 --> 00:39:18,080
And yet here in these
remote waters of Panama,
567
00:39:18,223 --> 00:39:22,524
Kakani Katija is trying
to do just that...
568
00:39:22,660 --> 00:39:25,391
if she can get past
the venomous snakes.
569
00:39:25,530 --> 00:39:27,089
KATIJA: There's one right there.
570
00:39:28,566 --> 00:39:29,761
Don't come towards me.
571
00:39:29,901 --> 00:39:31,027
So here in Panama,
572
00:39:31,169 --> 00:39:32,466
one of the things
that we deal with here
573
00:39:32,604 --> 00:39:34,436
are sea snakes in the water,
574
00:39:34,572 --> 00:39:37,041
and as you can see right now,
575
00:39:37,175 --> 00:39:38,540
they are hunting
around our boat.
576
00:39:38,676 --> 00:39:41,668
So just a part of the day job.
577
00:39:44,148 --> 00:39:45,809
NARRATOR: Tonight,
Kakani is investigating
578
00:39:45,950 --> 00:39:49,079
gelatinous creatures
called salps,
579
00:39:49,220 --> 00:39:52,053
which band together
in long chains.
580
00:39:54,826 --> 00:39:55,759
Her plan?
581
00:39:55,894 --> 00:39:58,625
Light up the water column
with a high-powered laser,
582
00:39:58,763 --> 00:40:00,390
record the salps' motion,
583
00:40:00,531 --> 00:40:03,296
and measure how much
water they disturb.
584
00:40:06,070 --> 00:40:09,096
KATIJA: There is so much ambient stuff
in the water, you know-
585
00:40:09,240 --> 00:40:13,438
it could be sand, silt,
detritus, name it-
586
00:40:13,578 --> 00:40:16,604
they're illuminated
by the laser.
587
00:40:16,748 --> 00:40:18,580
NARRATOR: By watching how
these particles move
588
00:40:18,716 --> 00:40:21,708
as animals swim through them,
589
00:40:21,853 --> 00:40:25,187
the team can calculate
how much water is being mixed.
590
00:40:29,460 --> 00:40:31,155
When they first started
their research,
591
00:40:31,296 --> 00:40:32,695
Kakani and her team
were startled
592
00:40:32,830 --> 00:40:35,925
by the amount the creatures could move,
593
00:40:36,067 --> 00:40:38,331
both by swirling it up
as they passed,
594
00:40:38,469 --> 00:40:41,029
and by dragging it along
behind them.
595
00:40:44,609 --> 00:40:47,169
KATIJA: This is a mechanism
that allows smaller animals
596
00:40:47,312 --> 00:40:52,580
to achieve appreciable mixing
that was completely neglected.
597
00:40:52,717 --> 00:40:53,775
NARRATOR: With every stroke,
598
00:40:53,918 --> 00:40:57,013
they transfer energy into
the sea and mix it up,
599
00:40:57,155 --> 00:41:01,319
as Kakani demonstrates using
a special fluorescent dye.
600
00:41:11,469 --> 00:41:14,530
How much energy, though,
isn't intuitive.
601
00:41:20,812 --> 00:41:22,780
KATIJA: The original thought
was only large animals
602
00:41:22,914 --> 00:41:27,078
will be able to mix the water
around them substantially.
603
00:41:27,218 --> 00:41:30,188
But what we're able to show
with some of our field measurements,
604
00:41:30,321 --> 00:41:31,720
as well as some work in the lab,
605
00:41:31,856 --> 00:41:34,791
is that smaller animals
are actually also able
606
00:41:34,926 --> 00:41:38,556
to generate mixing
at those same scales.
607
00:41:43,634 --> 00:41:44,999
BALLARD:
That may seem far-fetched,
608
00:41:45,136 --> 00:41:46,968
but when you sit down
and do the math, you know,
609
00:41:47,105 --> 00:41:49,597
there are billions and billions
of tiny animals
610
00:41:49,741 --> 00:41:51,266
moving around in the ocean
all the time,
611
00:41:51,409 --> 00:41:55,277
and, you know, that could add up to
a lot of water being churned.
612
00:41:57,949 --> 00:41:59,041
NARRATOR: At the surface,
613
00:41:59,183 --> 00:42:02,118
this energy gets swamped
by more dramatic forces,
614
00:42:02,253 --> 00:42:04,483
like waves and tides.
615
00:42:05,556 --> 00:42:08,048
But dip just 300 feet deeper
616
00:42:08,192 --> 00:42:11,560
and you'll find a different,
calmer world.
617
00:42:16,434 --> 00:42:21,531
Down here, it's easy to imagine
how even one small animal,
618
00:42:21,672 --> 00:42:23,800
not to mention
countless millions,
619
00:42:23,941 --> 00:42:26,501
can have butterfly-like effects.
620
00:42:42,160 --> 00:42:44,060
KATIJA: If we can show that
621
00:42:44,195 --> 00:42:47,495
the vast majority of
organisms in the ocean
622
00:42:47,632 --> 00:42:50,260
are able to achieve
appreciable mixing,
623
00:42:50,401 --> 00:42:54,395
I think it would be hard
to ignore that input.
624
00:42:58,476 --> 00:43:00,535
NARRATOR:
An input that's hardly been considered,
625
00:43:00,678 --> 00:43:04,672
let alone worked into existing
ocean and climate models.
626
00:43:08,553 --> 00:43:12,888
Once she knows how much energy
each tiny critter can exert,
627
00:43:13,024 --> 00:43:14,355
Kakani can scale up her findings
628
00:43:14,492 --> 00:43:18,759
to measure the overall impact
these animals have...
629
00:43:18,896 --> 00:43:22,491
the hurricane side
of the butterfly effect.
630
00:43:22,633 --> 00:43:23,964
KATIJA: We're talking about the ocean.
631
00:43:24,102 --> 00:43:27,003
[laughs]
I mean, it's huge, right?
632
00:43:27,138 --> 00:43:30,904
I mean, the majority of Earth is ocean.
633
00:43:31,042 --> 00:43:36,412
If indeed we are missing
a huge input of power,
634
00:43:36,547 --> 00:43:40,279
because we've ignored the impact
that swimming animals have,
635
00:43:40,418 --> 00:43:44,116
our view of the ocean
may be totally altered.
636
00:43:45,990 --> 00:43:49,153
NARRATOR;
Whether it's wind, tides, currents,
637
00:43:49,293 --> 00:43:52,695
or the collective swishing
of billions of fish tails,
638
00:43:52,830 --> 00:43:56,095
understanding the forces
that keep the ocean in motion
639
00:43:56,234 --> 00:44:00,102
is crucial to predicting
how it's likely to change.
640
00:44:02,573 --> 00:44:04,007
And the picture that's emerging
641
00:44:04,142 --> 00:44:07,168
is one of a hotter,
more energetic planet
642
00:44:07,311 --> 00:44:10,281
and bigger, angrier seas.
643
00:44:22,493 --> 00:44:26,259
The oceans have always been
a dangerous place for us humans,
644
00:44:26,397 --> 00:44:28,365
and from what
Dr. Robert Ballard has seen
645
00:44:28,499 --> 00:44:30,661
on his journey around the world,
646
00:44:30,801 --> 00:44:33,327
things are only getting worse.
647
00:44:34,939 --> 00:44:37,636
BALLARD: The earth is undergoing tremendous change
right now,
648
00:44:37,775 --> 00:44:41,370
change that we haven't
experienced in the past.
649
00:44:43,714 --> 00:44:47,014
NARRATOR: We've got a lot to learn
about how it all works.
650
00:44:49,053 --> 00:44:51,750
But there is one common thread.
651
00:44:54,058 --> 00:44:54,957
BALLARD:
The world's getting hotter,
652
00:44:55,092 --> 00:44:56,856
and that's putting more energy
into the system.
653
00:44:56,994 --> 00:44:59,326
So from there, you just have
to follow the trail,
654
00:44:59,463 --> 00:45:02,489
and that leads you to more violent storms
and bigger waves.
655
00:45:06,003 --> 00:45:08,973
NARRATOR: We know the world
is heating up.
656
00:45:10,107 --> 00:45:13,338
We know heat energizes
the ocean and atmosphere,
657
00:45:13,477 --> 00:45:15,844
powering more intense storms.
658
00:45:17,615 --> 00:45:22,018
Bigger storms create
higher winds,
659
00:45:22,153 --> 00:45:25,316
which in turn
churn up higher seas.
660
00:45:40,805 --> 00:45:42,637
BALLARD: So whether
you like it or not,
661
00:45:42,773 --> 00:45:45,504
global warming is happening.
662
00:45:45,643 --> 00:45:48,044
And we know that humans are
behind at least some of this heat,
663
00:45:48,179 --> 00:45:50,238
and maybe a lot of it.
664
00:45:50,381 --> 00:45:51,712
We're burning oil,
we're burning coal,
665
00:45:51,849 --> 00:45:53,146
and that all traps heat.
666
00:45:53,284 --> 00:45:54,479
We know this.
667
00:45:54,619 --> 00:45:56,713
We're seeing the effects.
668
00:45:59,523 --> 00:46:02,515
NARRATOR: These effects
will impact everyone-
669
00:46:02,660 --> 00:46:05,425
even people who crave
the big waves.
670
00:46:08,499 --> 00:46:10,593
VAN BASTOLAER: You want it
and you don't want it, you know?
671
00:46:10,735 --> 00:46:13,067
And you want it
because that's your job,
672
00:46:13,204 --> 00:46:16,037
that's what I live for,
that's what I love it, too.
673
00:46:16,173 --> 00:46:19,837
But you don't want it because
my house is next to the ocean,
674
00:46:19,977 --> 00:46:22,412
and I don't want
to lose my house.
675
00:46:25,750 --> 00:46:27,514
NARRATOR:
Neither do the 100 million others
676
00:46:27,652 --> 00:46:29,950
who live near the sea.
677
00:46:39,664 --> 00:46:41,496
If storms get more severe,
678
00:46:41,632 --> 00:46:45,159
wave heights grow,
and sea levels rise as predicted,
679
00:46:45,303 --> 00:46:48,398
those people could be
forced from their homes.
680
00:46:55,680 --> 00:47:00,140
Damage to ships and coastlines
could cost trillions of dollars.
681
00:47:01,352 --> 00:47:04,413
And that's just by
the middle of the century.
682
00:47:06,223 --> 00:47:09,022
KATIJA: There's a lot
of questions that, honestly,
683
00:47:09,160 --> 00:47:10,685
I thought have already
been answered
684
00:47:10,828 --> 00:47:14,662
that we're nowhere near
understanding yet.
685
00:47:14,799 --> 00:47:18,201
But it's clear, at least
in some of these instances,
686
00:47:18,336 --> 00:47:21,101
that we are having
effect on the ocean,
687
00:47:21,238 --> 00:47:25,334
and, you know, there are some things
that we can do now.
688
00:47:27,278 --> 00:47:29,804
BALLARD: So really,
we have two choices.
689
00:47:29,947 --> 00:47:32,075
We can move to higher ground,
690
00:47:32,216 --> 00:47:36,551
design stronger ships,
and build higher seawalls.
691
00:47:36,687 --> 00:47:42,182
Or, we face the facts and stop
adding more heat to the system.
692
00:47:43,361 --> 00:47:45,352
The way I see it,
693
00:47:45,496 --> 00:47:47,965
we have no choice.
56035
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