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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:07,362 --> 00:00:09,495 Known as Europe's last wilderness, 2 00:00:09,655 --> 00:00:13,016 the Hebrides archipelago isn't just a land of beauty, 3 00:00:18,391 --> 00:00:20,936 it's one of the most hostile places on the planet. 4 00:00:28,792 --> 00:00:31,287 While secret coves and deserted beaches 5 00:00:31,447 --> 00:00:33,912 provide sanctuary to a host of wild creatures. 6 00:00:36,078 --> 00:00:39,438 For thousands of years people have battled with the elements. 7 00:00:40,308 --> 00:00:42,788 Even the vikings struggled to survive. 8 00:00:47,267 --> 00:00:51,466 Fueled by rich organic seas, the regions wildlife thrives, 9 00:00:54,484 --> 00:00:57,336 but many human settlers disappear. 10 00:00:58,622 --> 00:01:03,127 Adding myth and legend to these wild islands of mystery. 11 00:01:51,370 --> 00:01:54,378 Lying just off the coast of West Scotland, 12 00:01:54,538 --> 00:01:59,320 the Hebrides Archipelago is made up of more than 500 islands and islets, 13 00:02:03,453 --> 00:02:06,486 stretching 200 km from north to south, 14 00:02:06,646 --> 00:02:09,686 it's divided into an inner and outer group. 15 00:02:13,314 --> 00:02:17,091 Many low lying islands were born from the gradual uplift 16 00:02:17,251 --> 00:02:20,003 of rock that's over three billion years old. 17 00:02:23,760 --> 00:02:25,680 Other's were formed more recently, 18 00:02:25,840 --> 00:02:29,104 and violently, through volcanic explosions. 19 00:02:37,327 --> 00:02:39,728 Isolation from the mainland, has made the Hebrides 20 00:02:39,888 --> 00:02:43,088 the perfect breeding ground for millions of creatures. 21 00:02:51,183 --> 00:02:53,647 The islands are home to some of the largest gatherings, 22 00:02:53,807 --> 00:02:55,886 and greatest spectacles on the planet. 23 00:03:01,520 --> 00:03:05,327 Eight thousand years ago, people also set up home here. 24 00:03:08,304 --> 00:03:11,376 But many succumbed to the islands often hostile weather, 25 00:03:11,536 --> 00:03:13,520 and intimidating seas. 26 00:03:17,117 --> 00:03:21,840 Evidence of previous communities lies littered throughout the Archipelago. 27 00:03:26,972 --> 00:03:29,691 Islanders cling onto island life by a thread. 28 00:03:47,101 --> 00:03:50,301 Ever since their exposure following the end of the Ice Age, 29 00:03:50,461 --> 00:03:53,245 the Hebrides has always been a land of mystery. 30 00:04:02,588 --> 00:04:04,796 Early sailors recounted calls of mermaids 31 00:04:04,956 --> 00:04:06,395 from coastal caves. 32 00:04:11,677 --> 00:04:14,237 Unable to resist their lure, many were beckoned 33 00:04:14,397 --> 00:04:17,505 to a watery grave. 34 00:04:17,665 --> 00:04:19,713 These half human half fish creatures 35 00:04:19,873 --> 00:04:23,329 remain a myth, but eerie calls from the caves 36 00:04:23,489 --> 00:04:25,212 are reported even today. 37 00:04:33,250 --> 00:04:36,269 Many gray seals choose the safety of hidden caves, 38 00:04:36,429 --> 00:04:38,879 when giving birth to their pups. 39 00:04:40,453 --> 00:04:44,287 They are one of the most vocal of all seal species. 40 00:04:47,945 --> 00:04:50,120 Half of the worlds population of gray seals 41 00:04:50,280 --> 00:04:52,931 live along the British coast, 42 00:04:53,091 --> 00:04:56,480 but not all mothers choose the privacy of a personal birthing room. 43 00:04:59,431 --> 00:05:03,080 The Monach Isles sit on the edge of the outer Hebrides chain. 44 00:05:09,798 --> 00:05:12,600 The islands isolated beaches are the perfect locations 45 00:05:12,759 --> 00:05:15,847 for one of the largest gatherings of gray seals on the planet. 46 00:05:21,039 --> 00:05:25,217 Each winter, over 35,000 arrive on Monach's shores. 47 00:05:32,480 --> 00:05:35,361 Mothers give birth to just a single pup at a time. 48 00:05:38,747 --> 00:05:42,363 However, around 9,000 are born here each year. 49 00:05:48,276 --> 00:05:50,825 Pups are suckled for just 18 days. 50 00:05:50,985 --> 00:05:54,793 The mothers milk is so rich, it contains about 60% fat. 51 00:06:03,304 --> 00:06:06,505 The youngsters are born weighing around 14 kg, 52 00:06:06,665 --> 00:06:09,417 and put on approximately two kilo per day. 53 00:06:16,905 --> 00:06:20,105 In around three weeks, their weight more than triples. 54 00:06:25,545 --> 00:06:28,259 Once this short suckling period is over 55 00:06:28,419 --> 00:06:30,375 the pup is abandoned. 56 00:06:33,837 --> 00:06:36,013 The mothers need to mate again. 57 00:06:48,779 --> 00:06:51,372 Bull seals play no part in raising their young. 58 00:06:54,442 --> 00:06:56,970 But these half ton giants put every effort 59 00:06:57,130 --> 00:06:59,498 into claiming their breeding rights. 60 00:07:02,570 --> 00:07:07,320 It takes around ten years to be big, and strong enough to win a territorial battle. 61 00:07:11,237 --> 00:07:14,886 A snarl is often enough to see off lesser rivals. 62 00:07:21,062 --> 00:07:24,166 Sometimes, the odds are more evenly balanced. 63 00:07:27,558 --> 00:07:30,214 These two males appear to have met their match. 64 00:07:33,606 --> 00:07:37,200 Fights are often bloody, and can lead into death. 65 00:07:58,157 --> 00:08:01,260 Finally, one of the males backs down, 66 00:08:01,420 --> 00:08:04,173 siring his next generation will have to wait. 67 00:08:11,565 --> 00:08:14,997 In around two weeks time, hunger will drive the abandoned pups 68 00:08:15,157 --> 00:08:18,880 to fend for themselves in the islands fish rich sea. 69 00:08:22,281 --> 00:08:24,773 While the low lying Monach Isles provide sanctuary 70 00:08:24,933 --> 00:08:28,248 to some of the regions largest marine predators, 71 00:08:28,408 --> 00:08:32,800 the mountains of another island play home to Britain's biggest land mammal. 72 00:08:39,609 --> 00:08:42,937 The isle of Rum lies at the heart of the inner Hebrides. 73 00:08:45,913 --> 00:08:50,600 Conical peaks, and rolling hills are at the core of a deeply eroded volcano, 74 00:08:50,753 --> 00:08:53,593 last active around 25 million years ago. 75 00:09:03,929 --> 00:09:07,385 This islands dramatic creation may be long in the past, 76 00:09:07,545 --> 00:09:11,960 but today it's the setting for one of nature's most energetic wildlife spectacles. 77 00:09:25,559 --> 00:09:28,795 Red deer are the third largest deer in the world. 78 00:09:31,170 --> 00:09:34,876 Around 900 roam this remote island. 79 00:09:36,450 --> 00:09:39,042 Their population has remained relatively stable, 80 00:09:39,202 --> 00:09:42,118 due to being isolated from main land predators. 81 00:09:43,948 --> 00:09:46,220 Despite this, internal casualties 82 00:09:46,380 --> 00:09:48,806 have become a matter of course. 83 00:09:50,156 --> 00:09:52,876 These stags are stocking up for the annual rut, 84 00:09:55,478 --> 00:09:57,622 Old antlers from last years battles, 85 00:09:57,782 --> 00:10:00,118 provide an important source of calcium. 86 00:10:03,296 --> 00:10:06,272 Mature males weigh just under 200 kilos, 87 00:10:06,432 --> 00:10:09,472 and stand a meter and a half tall at the shoulder. 88 00:10:12,448 --> 00:10:14,784 There will be no mercy for light weights. 89 00:10:18,848 --> 00:10:22,240 This stag is separated from the rest of his male companions. 90 00:10:27,904 --> 00:10:30,144 He's rounded up a small group of females, 91 00:10:30,304 --> 00:10:33,274 who've responded to his mating calls. 92 00:10:37,418 --> 00:10:40,413 But he isn't the only one with eyes on this harem. 93 00:10:49,404 --> 00:10:54,360 The rival challenges his opponent by walking parallel to him and roaring. 94 00:11:04,284 --> 00:11:07,452 Once antlers and size have been assessed, 95 00:11:07,612 --> 00:11:10,077 the pair lunge into battle. 96 00:11:19,548 --> 00:11:23,437 These intense bouts of sparring are often bloody as well as fatal, 97 00:11:23,597 --> 00:11:28,480 but with breeding rights at stake, it's a risk most males are willing to take. 98 00:11:47,995 --> 00:11:51,802 Individual clashes are usually over in a matter of minutes. 99 00:11:57,243 --> 00:12:03,360 But once the rut begins, the battle continues on and off for around four weeks. 100 00:12:15,363 --> 00:12:17,667 Those deer that pay the ultimate price 101 00:12:17,827 --> 00:12:19,971 in their quest to acquire mates, 102 00:12:20,131 --> 00:12:23,266 play an important role in the life of another creature. 103 00:12:35,010 --> 00:12:38,404 During winter, one of Britain's most famous and rarest birds 104 00:12:38,564 --> 00:12:41,572 relies on rut victims in order to survive. 105 00:12:49,508 --> 00:12:54,008 Golden Eagles have a wing span of up to 2 1/2 meters. 106 00:12:54,168 --> 00:12:57,520 They're one of the most powerful flying predators in the world. 107 00:13:01,251 --> 00:13:04,387 They usually hunt rabbits and hares, 108 00:13:04,547 --> 00:13:07,299 but carrion is a vital part of their winter diet. 109 00:13:11,171 --> 00:13:14,211 Their eyesight is eight times sharper than humans, 110 00:13:14,371 --> 00:13:18,000 they can spot a deer carcass from more than a kilometer away. 111 00:13:22,627 --> 00:13:26,268 In Celtic mythology, the Golden Eagle is revered. 112 00:13:29,315 --> 00:13:31,107 It symbolized the soul, 113 00:13:31,267 --> 00:13:34,525 signifying the power of life over death. 114 00:13:36,707 --> 00:13:40,339 However, another creature on the island had the opposite effect, 115 00:13:40,499 --> 00:13:47,280 it's calls made superstitious vikings believe the hills were inhabited by trolls. 116 00:13:54,019 --> 00:13:57,986 Each spring 120,000 pairs of Manx shearwaters 117 00:13:58,146 --> 00:14:00,483 arrive on Rums coast. 118 00:14:01,859 --> 00:14:06,640 The island is a final destination on their 16,000 km journey from South America. 119 00:14:08,963 --> 00:14:13,120 The hills soft volcanic soil provides the perfect nesting ground, 120 00:14:13,283 --> 00:14:15,619 and with no ground dwelling predators, 121 00:14:15,779 --> 00:14:17,731 it's the perfect place to breed. 122 00:14:24,678 --> 00:14:28,326 At just under 40 cm long, Manx shearwaters 123 00:14:28,486 --> 00:14:30,412 are relatively small sea birds. 124 00:14:37,540 --> 00:14:41,252 They're no match for avian hunters like black-backed gulls, 125 00:14:41,412 --> 00:14:43,716 that are more than twice their size. 126 00:14:49,476 --> 00:14:52,612 Shearwaters have a unique survival strategy, 127 00:14:52,772 --> 00:14:55,012 each partner takes turns at fishing, 128 00:14:55,172 --> 00:14:57,028 and incubating their eggs. 129 00:15:00,228 --> 00:15:04,760 To avoid being attacked, they return to their burrows under the cover of night. 130 00:15:07,684 --> 00:15:09,957 These eerie caws and coos are essential 131 00:15:10,117 --> 00:15:12,164 in order for each pair to be reunited. 132 00:15:16,039 --> 00:15:20,920 It's easy to understand how this added to the vikings demonic beliefs, 133 00:15:21,098 --> 00:15:23,371 especially as when the sun rises, 134 00:15:23,531 --> 00:15:25,707 there's not a single sound. 135 00:15:33,355 --> 00:15:37,227 Many myths and legends are linked to the islands dry land, 136 00:15:37,387 --> 00:15:39,019 but some of the most remarkable 137 00:15:39,179 --> 00:15:41,579 emerged from the surrounding sea. 138 00:15:46,507 --> 00:15:49,387 40 miles further north, on the isle of Sky, 139 00:15:49,547 --> 00:15:53,387 81 year old Ian McDonald is on his annual mission. 140 00:16:02,507 --> 00:16:04,651 He spent his whole life recounting tales 141 00:16:04,811 --> 00:16:07,627 of enormous beasts swimming these seas. 142 00:16:13,547 --> 00:16:16,683 Today, he's about to witness the event once more. 143 00:16:30,191 --> 00:16:34,044 Each October, Ian moves his cattle to Stanshaw island, 144 00:16:34,204 --> 00:16:36,343 where they graze during winter. 145 00:16:38,845 --> 00:16:42,141 It's now spring, and he's returning to the main island. 146 00:16:51,773 --> 00:16:54,909 With no land bridge to connect Sky to Stanshaw, 147 00:16:55,069 --> 00:16:57,503 the cows have only one option. 148 00:17:11,781 --> 00:17:17,080 Centuries ago, swimming cattle between islands was common place. 149 00:17:17,226 --> 00:17:20,554 Today, Ian is the last farmer in the Hebrides 150 00:17:20,714 --> 00:17:23,178 to continue this age old tradition. 151 00:17:58,545 --> 00:18:02,546 At low tide, the seas separating islands appear welcoming, 152 00:18:08,658 --> 00:18:12,146 but when the waters turn, it's a different story entirely. 153 00:18:27,555 --> 00:18:30,089 Between the isles of Scarba and Jura, 154 00:18:30,249 --> 00:18:32,008 strong Atlantic currents, 155 00:18:32,168 --> 00:18:34,825 and an underwater peak, combine to create 156 00:18:34,985 --> 00:18:37,609 some of the most treacherous waters on the planet. 157 00:18:45,784 --> 00:18:50,120 The tide speeds up as it enters the narrow channel between the islands. 158 00:18:55,765 --> 00:18:57,685 On hitting the underwater pinnacle, 159 00:18:57,845 --> 00:19:01,141 standing waves over six meters tall rise to the surface. 160 00:19:05,191 --> 00:19:10,040 This is Corryvreckan, the third largest whirlpool in the world. 161 00:19:16,180 --> 00:19:19,829 It's roar can be heard more than 16 km away. 162 00:19:26,005 --> 00:19:29,365 Legend has it, a viking prince spent three days and nights 163 00:19:29,525 --> 00:19:32,373 on a boat anchored beside the whirlpool, 164 00:19:32,533 --> 00:19:35,765 to prove he was worthy of marrying a Hebridean Princess. 165 00:19:40,501 --> 00:19:44,197 On the advice of scholars, the prince had three special ropes made, 166 00:19:44,357 --> 00:19:49,120 one was woven from wool, one from hemp, 167 00:19:49,269 --> 00:19:52,340 and the last used hair from virtuous maidens. 168 00:19:54,676 --> 00:19:57,675 On the third night his boat was sucked into the vortex. 169 00:19:59,979 --> 00:20:03,670 The anchor rope made from the maidens hair snapped. 170 00:20:09,173 --> 00:20:13,800 It turned out that one of the donors hadn't been virtuous after all. 171 00:20:18,316 --> 00:20:20,812 The prince's body was later washed up, 172 00:20:20,972 --> 00:20:23,788 and buried in the nearby king's cave. 173 00:20:31,640 --> 00:20:33,976 Corryvreckan whirlpool plays an important role 174 00:20:34,136 --> 00:20:36,824 in the Hebrides underwater ecosystem. 175 00:20:38,702 --> 00:20:40,910 The rising waters and sucking whirls, 176 00:20:41,070 --> 00:20:43,150 create an up-welling of nutrients, 177 00:20:43,310 --> 00:20:46,559 and act as barriers that concentrate the plankton. 178 00:20:49,983 --> 00:20:54,239 Herring and sand eels thrive on these miniatures meals, 179 00:20:54,399 --> 00:20:57,784 these, in turn, provide food for larger predators. 180 00:21:01,086 --> 00:21:03,263 Shearwaters are first on the scene, 181 00:21:03,423 --> 00:21:05,791 snatching the fish just below the surface. 182 00:21:10,911 --> 00:21:14,880 But they are soon eclipsed by the master high diver of them all. 183 00:21:25,336 --> 00:21:28,615 Northern gannets are graceful flyers, 184 00:21:28,775 --> 00:21:31,303 they have a wingspan of around two meters. 185 00:21:35,271 --> 00:21:39,303 Unlike most birds, they have forward facing eyes, 186 00:21:39,463 --> 00:21:42,368 which provide binocular vision. 187 00:21:46,432 --> 00:21:51,040 This allows them to estimate how far the fish are from the surface of the water. 188 00:21:52,128 --> 00:21:54,272 Once locked onto their target, 189 00:21:54,432 --> 00:21:56,288 they fold back their wings, 190 00:21:56,448 --> 00:21:57,920 and plummet. 191 00:22:03,136 --> 00:22:07,560 Gannets can hit the water at over 100 km/h, to capture prey. 192 00:22:14,976 --> 00:22:17,476 At the moment of impact, they stretch their bodies 193 00:22:17,636 --> 00:22:20,228 into a streamlined, torpedo like shape. 194 00:22:24,452 --> 00:22:27,204 A maze of air cells between their skin and muscles 195 00:22:27,364 --> 00:22:31,198 is inflated to help cushion the blow. 196 00:22:45,156 --> 00:22:48,960 It isn't only birds that are attracted to these feeding frenzies. 197 00:22:50,755 --> 00:22:53,284 The Hebrides fish rich waters also support 198 00:22:53,444 --> 00:22:56,164 some of the largest creatures on the planet. 199 00:22:59,526 --> 00:23:03,046 Minke whales weigh up to 15 tons, 200 00:23:03,206 --> 00:23:06,112 and reach over 10 meters in length. 201 00:23:10,981 --> 00:23:13,638 They lunge at their prey from beneath the surface. 202 00:23:22,182 --> 00:23:26,142 Large volumes of fish and water are engulfed before being sieved, 203 00:23:26,302 --> 00:23:27,960 and swallowed hole. 204 00:23:37,062 --> 00:23:39,686 The whales generally live solitary lives, 205 00:23:39,846 --> 00:23:42,949 but can gather in groups of ten or more when feeding. 206 00:23:58,039 --> 00:23:59,895 The seas surrounding the Hebrides, 207 00:24:00,055 --> 00:24:02,391 are some of the richest in the world. 208 00:24:05,689 --> 00:24:08,121 Around these isolated islands, 209 00:24:08,281 --> 00:24:11,910 the warm gulf stream waters reach their northern extremity. 210 00:24:17,817 --> 00:24:21,049 At the same time, cooler currents from the north 211 00:24:21,209 --> 00:24:23,897 bring many species to their southern limits. 212 00:24:29,272 --> 00:24:31,416 This temperature transition is reflected 213 00:24:31,576 --> 00:24:34,777 in the great diversity of marine creatures found here. 214 00:24:42,265 --> 00:24:47,070 Twenty four species of whale, dolphin, and porpoise patrol these waters. 215 00:24:49,947 --> 00:24:53,179 Including Britain's largest fish. 216 00:24:58,683 --> 00:25:02,043 Basking sharks can reach up to seven meters in length, 217 00:25:02,203 --> 00:25:05,435 and have a dorsal fin up to a meter and a half high. 218 00:25:09,914 --> 00:25:12,733 They're drawn to the Hebrides plankton rich waters, 219 00:25:12,893 --> 00:25:15,745 where they remain close to the surface to feed. 220 00:25:21,089 --> 00:25:23,881 They filter around a million and a half liters of water every hour, 221 00:25:24,041 --> 00:25:28,400 trapping the tiny creatures in their extensive gill rakers. 222 00:25:41,824 --> 00:25:44,451 The islands inlets, known as lochs, 223 00:25:44,611 --> 00:25:47,779 also provide a food source for many animals. 224 00:25:49,957 --> 00:25:52,933 Including Europe's largest bird of prey. 225 00:25:59,333 --> 00:26:03,600 White tailed eagles have a wing span approaching 2 1/2 meters. 226 00:26:06,660 --> 00:26:08,901 Their eyes are larger than humans, 227 00:26:09,061 --> 00:26:13,991 and like the golden eagle, their vision is far sharper than our own. 228 00:26:19,122 --> 00:26:22,514 Each of their eyes has two centers of focus, 229 00:26:22,674 --> 00:26:25,394 they can see forwards and sideways at the same time. 230 00:26:28,882 --> 00:26:31,274 From an altitude of 300 meters, 231 00:26:31,434 --> 00:26:33,619 they can pinpoint a shoal of fish 232 00:26:33,779 --> 00:26:37,224 within an area of almost eight square kilometers. 233 00:26:40,809 --> 00:26:43,113 This bird has locked onto it's target, 234 00:26:43,273 --> 00:26:45,545 and prepares to swoop in. 235 00:26:57,992 --> 00:27:01,391 Also known as a sea eagle, the white tailed eagles' diet 236 00:27:01,551 --> 00:27:03,881 includes a great deal of fish. 237 00:27:07,987 --> 00:27:11,635 During the breeding season, it's the most important food. 238 00:27:19,123 --> 00:27:21,549 Young chicks have big appetites. 239 00:27:26,803 --> 00:27:29,971 White tailed eagles usually lay one or two eggs, 240 00:27:30,131 --> 00:27:32,301 so twins are common. 241 00:27:34,291 --> 00:27:39,040 The young remain in the nest for around ten weeks before they fledge. 242 00:27:46,579 --> 00:27:48,979 Parents use the same nest for several years. 243 00:27:55,667 --> 00:28:01,480 The collection of sticks can end up weighing as much as a small car, almost 1,000 kg. 244 00:28:12,691 --> 00:28:14,899 On another island in the outer Hebrides, 245 00:28:15,059 --> 00:28:18,295 lie a number of clues to the existence of early man. 246 00:28:33,516 --> 00:28:35,445 The isle of Lewis and Harris contain 247 00:28:35,605 --> 00:28:39,195 some of the earliest evidence of humans inhabiting the Hebrides. 248 00:28:47,483 --> 00:28:49,595 6,000 year old peat bogs 249 00:28:49,755 --> 00:28:52,382 point to woodlands being raized to the ground 250 00:28:52,542 --> 00:28:55,967 by neolithic herders, to allow their deer to graze. 251 00:28:59,635 --> 00:29:02,515 Today the island remains virtually treeless. 252 00:29:06,343 --> 00:29:10,560 While certain clues to early settlers lie deep beneath the surface, 253 00:29:10,719 --> 00:29:14,120 in one location is a monument, that towers above the rest. 254 00:29:24,633 --> 00:29:26,649 The Standing Stones of Callanish 255 00:29:26,809 --> 00:29:29,529 were erected around 4,000 years ago. 256 00:29:34,932 --> 00:29:37,684 They were old long before Rome was heard of. 257 00:29:44,052 --> 00:29:47,348 Thirteen stones, averaging four meters tall, 258 00:29:47,508 --> 00:29:50,382 form a circle 13 meters across. 259 00:29:51,412 --> 00:29:54,068 They surround an even taller central monument. 260 00:30:02,580 --> 00:30:06,035 Legend has it that giants, who once lived on the island, 261 00:30:06,195 --> 00:30:08,276 were turned to stone as a punishment 262 00:30:08,436 --> 00:30:11,284 for refusing to convert to Christianity. 263 00:30:17,748 --> 00:30:20,680 The stones are also said to receive a ghostly visitation 264 00:30:20,840 --> 00:30:24,227 on the dawn of the midsummer solstice. 265 00:30:27,433 --> 00:30:30,120 A shining figure is said to walk through the circle, 266 00:30:30,280 --> 00:30:32,585 heralded by the call of the cuckoo. 267 00:30:36,361 --> 00:30:39,698 Other theories point to Callanish being an ancient burial site, 268 00:30:39,864 --> 00:30:41,675 or having an astronomical purpose. 269 00:30:46,377 --> 00:30:49,416 The structures true purpose, however, remains a mystery. 270 00:30:55,049 --> 00:30:57,705 The Callanish stones are made of lewisian gneiss, 271 00:30:57,865 --> 00:31:00,829 one of the hardest types of rock in the world. 272 00:31:03,043 --> 00:31:05,922 It plays an important role at the coast of the island, 273 00:31:06,082 --> 00:31:08,419 helping creating a unique environment. 274 00:31:23,139 --> 00:31:26,082 The Machair is one of Europe's rarest habitats. 275 00:31:29,528 --> 00:31:31,800 It's unique to North West Scotland, 276 00:31:31,960 --> 00:31:33,912 and the West of Ireland. 277 00:31:57,815 --> 00:31:59,960 These wind swept coastal plains, 278 00:32:00,120 --> 00:32:03,768 consist of calcium rich shell sand, that is highly fertile, 279 00:32:03,928 --> 00:32:07,191 and free draining. 280 00:32:12,312 --> 00:32:17,680 Lewisian gneiss, which makes up the regions bed rock, doesn't erode easily. 281 00:32:17,847 --> 00:32:22,040 This means that rivers flowing to the coast carry very little sediment, 282 00:32:22,208 --> 00:32:26,610 which keeps the Machair sands free of bulky organic matter. 283 00:32:36,376 --> 00:32:38,936 These are the most fertile soils on the islands, 284 00:32:39,096 --> 00:32:42,584 and have always influenced the location of human settlements. 285 00:32:45,997 --> 00:32:49,005 Around 20,000 people live on the island today. 286 00:32:55,789 --> 00:32:58,969 Just up shore, some of Europe's most elusive creatures 287 00:32:59,129 --> 00:33:00,780 have also settled home here. 288 00:33:05,718 --> 00:33:09,297 Despite their name, common seals are quite rare. 289 00:33:12,087 --> 00:33:15,280 Their gray cousins outnumber them by a ratio of six to one. 290 00:33:20,607 --> 00:33:24,338 At just under two meters in length, they're smaller than the gray, 291 00:33:24,512 --> 00:33:27,360 and prefer to bask on rocks in secluded inlets. 292 00:33:32,832 --> 00:33:35,968 Common seals travel up to 50 km to feed, 293 00:33:36,128 --> 00:33:38,592 and often remain at sea for several days. 294 00:33:41,802 --> 00:33:44,393 They can dive under water for up to ten minutes, 295 00:33:44,553 --> 00:33:47,146 and reach depths of more than 50 meters. 296 00:33:57,962 --> 00:33:59,962 These coastal inlets are also home 297 00:34:00,122 --> 00:34:03,466 to one of the worlds most secretive fresh water mammals. 298 00:34:06,602 --> 00:34:11,720 The Hebrides is home to one of the densest populations of otters in North West Europe. 299 00:34:13,529 --> 00:34:18,308 At high tide, they feed in the islands' food rich coastal waters. 300 00:34:24,543 --> 00:34:27,999 The otters rely on the sea for the majority of their food, 301 00:34:28,159 --> 00:34:30,975 but they still need fresh water to wash away the salt, 302 00:34:31,135 --> 00:34:33,721 and keep their coats water proof. 303 00:34:35,807 --> 00:34:38,815 They spend most of their time on dry land. 304 00:34:43,359 --> 00:34:46,239 Local fold lore tells tales of otter kings, 305 00:34:46,399 --> 00:34:49,379 who were accompanied by seven black otters. 306 00:34:51,305 --> 00:34:54,162 When captured these beasts would grant any wish 307 00:34:54,322 --> 00:34:56,547 in exchange for their freedom. 308 00:35:03,868 --> 00:35:09,610 The Shiant isles lie six kilometers off the coast of Lewis and Harris. 309 00:35:15,217 --> 00:35:17,968 The surrounding waters are famed for another legend. 310 00:35:26,969 --> 00:35:32,049 The Blue Men of the Minch are said to have inhabited under water caves. 311 00:35:40,790 --> 00:35:44,004 Sailors were fearful of passing through this stretch of water, 312 00:35:44,161 --> 00:35:47,924 as they believed that Merman type creatures would lure them to their death. 313 00:36:03,190 --> 00:36:05,237 For many years the Shiant sustained 314 00:36:05,397 --> 00:36:07,862 a small population of around 30 people. 315 00:36:09,334 --> 00:36:13,240 However, the last residents abandoned the island, over a century ago. 316 00:36:22,326 --> 00:36:24,652 These isolated isles are built entirely 317 00:36:24,812 --> 00:36:27,874 from hexagonally jointed basalt columns. 318 00:36:33,800 --> 00:36:36,121 They're part of the same ancient lava flow 319 00:36:36,281 --> 00:36:41,360 that formed the Giants Causeway in Northern Ireland, 60 million years ago. 320 00:36:49,186 --> 00:36:52,675 The magma cooled rapidly, forcing it to crystallize, 321 00:36:52,835 --> 00:36:55,617 and form these giant geometric shapes. 322 00:37:00,099 --> 00:37:03,673 Standing 120 meters tall, these spectacular columns 323 00:37:03,833 --> 00:37:06,716 dwarf their Irish counterparts. 324 00:37:19,810 --> 00:37:22,370 The islands grassy cliffs are the breeding home 325 00:37:22,530 --> 00:37:25,762 to an estimated 80,000 pairs of Atlantic puffins. 326 00:37:30,530 --> 00:37:33,058 These enigmatic birds live a solitary life 327 00:37:33,218 --> 00:37:35,202 out at sea for most of the year. 328 00:37:38,562 --> 00:37:41,730 During summer, they congregate in immense numbers. 329 00:37:47,266 --> 00:37:50,275 Puffins choose the same mating partner for life, 330 00:37:50,435 --> 00:37:53,890 and reunited couples reuse last seasons' nesting burrow. 331 00:38:00,066 --> 00:38:03,489 Sand eels are the staple diet for a newly hatched chick. 332 00:38:03,649 --> 00:38:06,145 Both parents take turns fishing. 333 00:38:14,337 --> 00:38:17,472 Feeding areas can range up to 100 km off shore, 334 00:38:17,632 --> 00:38:20,319 so several fish are caught on each trip. 335 00:38:24,832 --> 00:38:28,880 There tongues hold anything they catch against spines in their pallet, 336 00:38:29,052 --> 00:38:31,771 this leaves the bill free to capture more fish. 337 00:38:36,828 --> 00:38:40,380 Puffins are small birds, standing just 18 cm tall, 338 00:38:40,540 --> 00:38:43,414 and weighing around 500 grams. 339 00:38:45,020 --> 00:38:47,452 They are the perfect meal for an aerial predator 340 00:38:47,612 --> 00:38:50,075 more than three times their size. 341 00:38:58,748 --> 00:39:02,300 Great Black-backed Gulls are opportunistic hunters, 342 00:39:02,460 --> 00:39:05,244 that steal and scavenge most of their food. 343 00:39:11,452 --> 00:39:13,436 They're the largest of all gulls, 344 00:39:13,596 --> 00:39:17,213 and will hunt and kill any creature smaller than themselves. 345 00:39:26,365 --> 00:39:28,733 This one has locked onto it's target. 346 00:39:37,853 --> 00:39:40,148 The puffin stands little chance 347 00:39:40,301 --> 00:39:43,837 against the gulls aggression, strength, and endurance. 348 00:40:02,461 --> 00:40:06,813 Many partners never return from their fishing trips. 349 00:40:18,333 --> 00:40:20,573 The Shiant isles may be isolated, 350 00:40:20,733 --> 00:40:25,720 but their location between the inner, and outer islands, doesn't quite make them remote. 351 00:40:34,557 --> 00:40:36,739 To the far west of the outer islands, 352 00:40:36,899 --> 00:40:40,797 sits the most hostile and isolated Archipelago of all. 353 00:40:44,828 --> 00:40:47,901 A legendary land where people eat birds. 354 00:40:52,251 --> 00:40:54,300 St. Kilda is by far the remotest 355 00:40:54,460 --> 00:40:56,347 of all the Hebridean islands. 356 00:40:58,844 --> 00:41:02,140 Lying 160 km from the mainland, 357 00:41:02,300 --> 00:41:06,800 the Archipelago was formed around 60 million years ago through volcanic activity. 358 00:41:10,906 --> 00:41:13,594 It contains the highest sea cliffs in Britain, 359 00:41:13,754 --> 00:41:17,840 which face some of the harshest storms the Atlantic Ocean has to offer. 360 00:41:26,362 --> 00:41:29,018 The climate is generally cool, with mists and showers 361 00:41:29,178 --> 00:41:31,770 dampening the island at all times of the year. 362 00:41:39,162 --> 00:41:43,040 It's thought that people arrived at St. Kilda as early as the bronze age. 363 00:41:48,346 --> 00:41:52,800 These visitors brought with them one of the worlds most primitive forms of sheep. 364 00:41:57,370 --> 00:42:01,818 Four thousand years later, the Soay sheep are still here. 365 00:42:06,842 --> 00:42:09,786 They're smaller than domestic sheep, but heartier, 366 00:42:09,946 --> 00:42:11,738 and far more agile. 367 00:42:15,386 --> 00:42:17,594 Unlike their relatives, Soay sheep 368 00:42:17,754 --> 00:42:22,228 shed their coats naturally, so don't require sheering. 369 00:42:24,282 --> 00:42:26,554 Their extraordinary long reign on the islands 370 00:42:26,714 --> 00:42:30,600 is in part down to the fact that they don't herd together like ordinary sheep. 371 00:42:33,306 --> 00:42:36,478 When startled, they separate and scatter in all directions, 372 00:42:36,638 --> 00:42:39,726 making their capture difficult for predators. 373 00:42:44,307 --> 00:42:48,524 Around 2,000 Soay sheep roam St. Kilda today. 374 00:42:58,227 --> 00:43:01,777 Iron age houses, a testament to people setting up permanent home 375 00:43:01,937 --> 00:43:03,795 around 2,000 years ago. 376 00:43:11,486 --> 00:43:16,763 This line of continuous adaptation came to an abrupt end, just over 80 years ago. 377 00:43:21,358 --> 00:43:26,273 For centuries people survived by eating the islands vast supply of sea birds. 378 00:43:32,206 --> 00:43:36,960 St. Kilda's cliffs are home to some of the largest populations of sea birds in the world. 379 00:43:40,622 --> 00:43:43,983 Because fishing the Atlantic's stormy seas was too dangerous, 380 00:43:44,143 --> 00:43:47,711 people turned to an alternative supply of food. 381 00:43:50,261 --> 00:43:51,926 Gannets, fulmars, 382 00:43:52,086 --> 00:43:54,878 and puffins made up the majority of their diet. 383 00:43:56,670 --> 00:44:00,510 Each resident ate, on average, 115 fulmars every year. 384 00:44:03,366 --> 00:44:05,958 Puffins became an every day snack, 385 00:44:06,118 --> 00:44:08,133 just like a packet of crisps. 386 00:44:10,054 --> 00:44:12,455 But this source of food was seasonal, 387 00:44:12,615 --> 00:44:15,142 the birds only used St. Kilda to nest. 388 00:44:18,342 --> 00:44:21,959 At the end of summer, the islanders cliffs became bare. 389 00:44:25,542 --> 00:44:28,231 In 1930, following food shortages, 390 00:44:28,391 --> 00:44:31,846 and disease, the last 36 residents of St. Kilda 391 00:44:32,006 --> 00:44:34,694 were evacuated to the main land. 392 00:44:40,006 --> 00:44:42,982 Over 60,000 pairs of gannets still return to St. Kilda 393 00:44:43,142 --> 00:44:46,688 each spring, it's the largest colony in the world. 394 00:44:50,647 --> 00:44:53,455 Although people no longer pose a threat to the sea birds, 395 00:44:53,615 --> 00:44:57,246 some of their own have taken to piracy. 396 00:45:04,286 --> 00:45:07,678 Great skuas arrived on St. Kilda around 50 years ago. 397 00:45:12,958 --> 00:45:17,680 Gannets are much larger than these aerial thieves, but skuas work in teams. 398 00:45:19,965 --> 00:45:24,308 They harass their targets, forcing them to regurgitate their prey. 399 00:45:26,108 --> 00:45:29,313 Grabbing their victims wings mid flight causes them to stall, 400 00:45:29,469 --> 00:45:31,228 and crash into the sea. 401 00:45:36,197 --> 00:45:38,436 Not all gannets survive such attacks, 402 00:45:38,596 --> 00:45:41,887 and the skuas end up with an even larger bounty. 403 00:45:56,197 --> 00:46:00,127 One bird, however, isn't prepared to just lie down and die. 404 00:46:02,445 --> 00:46:04,781 Fulmars are medium sized sea birds, 405 00:46:04,941 --> 00:46:07,415 with a wing span of just over a meter. 406 00:46:10,493 --> 00:46:14,691 On paper, they're no match for the islands aggressive predators. 407 00:46:20,157 --> 00:46:23,132 But this unassuming bird has a secret weapon. 408 00:46:28,636 --> 00:46:31,293 It spots an approaching arctic skua, 409 00:46:31,453 --> 00:46:33,533 another of the islands thieves. 410 00:46:35,548 --> 00:46:38,141 As the intruder gets within striking range, 411 00:46:38,301 --> 00:46:40,797 the fulmar unleashes a unique defense. 412 00:46:43,964 --> 00:46:47,485 This projectile vomit consists of highly acidic fish oil. 413 00:46:50,492 --> 00:46:54,160 The fulmars have a spitting range of up to 1 1/2 meters. 414 00:47:01,381 --> 00:47:05,093 The foul smelling, noxious oil, damages intruders feathers, 415 00:47:05,253 --> 00:47:08,511 which affects water proofing and flight. 416 00:47:11,604 --> 00:47:15,920 Most predators have learned to give this particular species a very wide berth. 417 00:47:19,732 --> 00:47:25,880 St. Kilda has the largest breeding population of fulmars in the UK, over 65,000 pairs. 418 00:47:27,540 --> 00:47:31,720 They played an important role in the lives of the people who lived here. 419 00:47:31,892 --> 00:47:34,612 Along with being part of their staple diet, 420 00:47:34,772 --> 00:47:38,414 the birds oil was used for burning in lamps. 421 00:47:40,955 --> 00:47:43,163 It even had a medicinal purpose, 422 00:47:43,323 --> 00:47:45,686 being rubbed into tired muscles. 423 00:47:53,436 --> 00:47:56,604 Today fulmars, and all other sea birds in Britain, 424 00:47:56,764 --> 00:48:01,764 are protected by law, however, there is an exception, 425 00:48:02,276 --> 00:48:05,572 and on one island the bird eating legend lives on. 426 00:48:09,700 --> 00:48:12,708 In the small town of Ness, in the outer Hebrides, 427 00:48:12,868 --> 00:48:15,780 a group of men are setting sail for Sula Sgeir, 428 00:48:17,891 --> 00:48:20,931 a remote island 60 km north of their home. 429 00:48:27,428 --> 00:48:30,692 Each August, they take part in the annual guga hunt. 430 00:48:33,900 --> 00:48:37,196 Guga is the Scottish Gaelic name for gannet chick, 431 00:48:40,916 --> 00:48:46,301 and at this time of year, Sula Sgeir has around 5,000 on the verge of fledging. 432 00:49:04,307 --> 00:49:08,214 Over a ten day period, 2,000 almost fully grown chicks 433 00:49:08,374 --> 00:49:10,258 are grabbed from their nests. 434 00:49:34,605 --> 00:49:38,189 Once killed, they're plucked, singed, 435 00:49:38,349 --> 00:49:40,045 and salted. 436 00:49:57,811 --> 00:50:00,366 Guga meat is seen as a delicacy. 437 00:50:02,995 --> 00:50:07,360 People from Ness have been hunting gannets on this small island for over 500 years. 438 00:50:11,604 --> 00:50:15,124 It's an age old tradition that today continues. 439 00:50:46,216 --> 00:50:48,521 The Hebrides is a land of wonder. 440 00:50:55,241 --> 00:50:57,993 Isolation, and food rich seas, 441 00:50:58,153 --> 00:51:00,713 provide safety for many wild creatures. 442 00:51:07,465 --> 00:51:10,793 But over time, people have struggled to survive. 443 00:51:19,880 --> 00:51:22,890 Myth and legend litter the island shores. 444 00:51:30,274 --> 00:51:35,080 But many wild spectacles, and age old traditions, live on. 38980

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