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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:07,408 --> 00:00:09,999 Lying like a teardrop in the Indian Ocean, 2 00:00:10,159 --> 00:00:13,519 the island of Sri Lanka defies convention. 3 00:00:17,399 --> 00:00:20,217 This tiny island is packed with enough wildlife 4 00:00:20,377 --> 00:00:22,803 to rival a vast continent. 5 00:00:26,745 --> 00:00:29,375 Nature's giants roam its sweltering plains. 6 00:00:37,102 --> 00:00:41,154 In its cold, mountainous heart there are weird and wonderful creatures 7 00:00:41,314 --> 00:00:43,323 found nowhere else on Earth. 8 00:00:46,610 --> 00:00:49,041 This is an island steeped in history, 9 00:00:49,201 --> 00:00:52,507 and a landscape carved by human hands. 10 00:00:55,730 --> 00:00:59,762 From the lowlands at the mercy of two different monsoons, 11 00:01:01,252 --> 00:01:04,825 to the highlands, cloaked in fog all year round. 12 00:01:06,670 --> 00:01:10,936 This is Sri Lanka, the monsoon island. 13 00:01:52,815 --> 00:01:55,423 Poised to six degrees above the equator, 14 00:01:55,583 --> 00:02:00,600 the island of Sri Lanka is less than 75,000 square km in size. 15 00:02:06,653 --> 00:02:10,800 Wind-swept coastal plains rise sharply to the central highlands, 16 00:02:10,974 --> 00:02:12,750 where the peaks tower 2,000 meters 17 00:02:12,910 --> 00:02:14,999 above the Indian Ocean. 18 00:02:18,909 --> 00:02:20,510 For such a small country, 19 00:02:20,670 --> 00:02:22,995 Sri Lanka has a complicated climate. 20 00:02:26,450 --> 00:02:29,939 Unusually, two different monsoons visit this island. 21 00:02:31,729 --> 00:02:33,980 Each year they roll in from the sea, 22 00:02:34,140 --> 00:02:37,655 drenching the plains with weeks of torrential rain. 23 00:02:45,564 --> 00:02:47,885 For the rest of the year, Sri Lanka's lowlands 24 00:02:48,045 --> 00:02:50,728 endure months of drought. 25 00:02:52,618 --> 00:02:56,804 But in the highlands water is plentiful all year round. 26 00:03:05,322 --> 00:03:10,160 For its size, Sri Lanka has a staggering variety of wildlife, 27 00:03:10,315 --> 00:03:13,189 and it's all down to its unique climate. 28 00:03:27,963 --> 00:03:31,098 It's June and the dry season is fastening its grip 29 00:03:31,258 --> 00:03:33,797 on the lowland plains. 30 00:03:36,538 --> 00:03:38,251 It hasn't rained for weeks, 31 00:03:38,411 --> 00:03:42,600 and it will be another four months before the northeast monsoon blows in. 32 00:03:48,987 --> 00:03:52,554 Sri Lanka's lowlands cover more than 2/3 of the island. 33 00:03:54,494 --> 00:03:58,338 And the plains are home to over 2,000 wild elephants. 34 00:04:04,156 --> 00:04:06,877 This is one of the biggest populations on Earth, 35 00:04:07,037 --> 00:04:09,687 and remarkable for such a small island. 36 00:04:11,661 --> 00:04:13,453 With the arrival of the dry season, 37 00:04:13,613 --> 00:04:16,246 finding enough food is getting more difficult. 38 00:04:21,085 --> 00:04:25,431 A full grown elephant spends up to 16 hours a day grazing. 39 00:04:28,749 --> 00:04:34,160 Eating the short, parched grass requires a special technique. 40 00:04:35,932 --> 00:04:38,621 It's kicked and twisted from the ground, 41 00:04:38,781 --> 00:04:41,222 then shaken to remove any soil. 42 00:04:50,253 --> 00:04:53,116 The elephants live in close-knit family groups 43 00:04:53,276 --> 00:04:57,094 under the care of an older female, the matriarch. 44 00:04:59,837 --> 00:05:02,285 With many years of knowledge and experience 45 00:05:02,445 --> 00:05:06,720 the matriarch knows where to find food and water in times of shortage. 46 00:05:10,509 --> 00:05:14,372 Each year during the dry season herds from across Northeast Sri Lanka 47 00:05:14,532 --> 00:05:16,301 make a beeline for a vast lake 48 00:05:16,461 --> 00:05:19,367 known as the Minneriya Tank. 49 00:05:26,989 --> 00:05:30,221 Some elephants travel hundreds of miles to reach the lake 50 00:05:30,381 --> 00:05:33,863 and family groups come together to form bigger herds. 51 00:05:35,852 --> 00:05:37,484 At the peak of the season, 52 00:05:37,644 --> 00:05:41,222 as many as 300 gather on Minneriya's shores. 53 00:05:46,797 --> 00:05:50,617 This lake is key to the survival of the island's elephants. 54 00:05:55,107 --> 00:05:58,813 As the water recedes it reveals fertile ground 55 00:05:58,973 --> 00:06:01,223 where fresh grass can grow. 56 00:06:04,477 --> 00:06:06,332 Even after weeks without rain, 57 00:06:06,492 --> 00:06:09,382 it's possible to find food around Minneriya. 58 00:06:16,588 --> 00:06:21,120 The scrub forests surrounding the lake provide shelter from the sun. 59 00:06:22,845 --> 00:06:25,005 Sri Lankan elephants are forest dwellers 60 00:06:25,165 --> 00:06:27,879 and they've evolved for life in the shade. 61 00:06:39,597 --> 00:06:41,900 For most of the year male elephants lead 62 00:06:42,060 --> 00:06:46,919 a solitary existence, but here they mix together freely. 63 00:06:50,781 --> 00:06:54,620 Many of the males are in season, and ready to mate. 64 00:07:04,424 --> 00:07:06,408 They're pumped full of hormones, 65 00:07:06,568 --> 00:07:09,973 and grapple with other bulls to assert their dominance. 66 00:07:21,873 --> 00:07:26,266 For male elephants, this is a rare opportunity to socialize. 67 00:07:34,048 --> 00:07:36,689 The real pull of Minneriya is a precious commodity 68 00:07:36,849 --> 00:07:38,651 during any drought. 69 00:07:41,328 --> 00:07:42,554 Water. 70 00:07:55,169 --> 00:07:57,761 Water is essential for all animals, 71 00:07:57,921 --> 00:08:01,579 but there are few that enjoy bathing as much as elephants. 72 00:08:10,609 --> 00:08:13,665 Their trunks can carry up to 10 liters of water, 73 00:08:13,825 --> 00:08:16,810 which is useful for showering. 74 00:08:20,513 --> 00:08:22,625 Without water, the young in particular 75 00:08:22,785 --> 00:08:26,299 are prone to overheating and dehydration. 76 00:08:42,385 --> 00:08:46,400 Sri Lankan elephants don't have such huge ears as their African cousins, 77 00:08:46,561 --> 00:08:49,595 which are the perfect way to lose body heat. 78 00:08:51,825 --> 00:08:55,003 So temperature regulation can be a problem. 79 00:09:00,416 --> 00:09:02,816 A dip in the lake quenches thirst 80 00:09:02,976 --> 00:09:05,802 and brings cooling relief from the heat. 81 00:09:10,944 --> 00:09:12,944 Even at the height of the drought, 82 00:09:13,104 --> 00:09:16,298 Minneriya retains some water. 83 00:09:17,648 --> 00:09:19,963 But this is no ordinary lake. 84 00:09:21,745 --> 00:09:24,417 It's an ancient man-made reservoir, 85 00:09:24,577 --> 00:09:27,258 built almost 2,000 years ago. 86 00:09:30,160 --> 00:09:34,080 Sri Lanka's lowlands were once the center of bygone civilizations, 87 00:09:34,257 --> 00:09:37,898 ruled by powerful kings and dynasties. 88 00:09:44,096 --> 00:09:46,144 To capture the monsoon rains, 89 00:09:46,304 --> 00:09:48,865 the kings constructed thousands of reservoirs, 90 00:09:49,025 --> 00:09:51,354 known as tanks. 91 00:09:53,504 --> 00:09:58,800 This ancient irrigation system provided enough water to last throughout the dry season. 92 00:10:02,595 --> 00:10:08,120 Huge rice paddies were planted to feed the growing human population. 93 00:10:09,692 --> 00:10:12,341 Sri Lankan's lowlands were transformed. 94 00:10:23,276 --> 00:10:27,800 Many of the vast rice paddies have now been reclaimed by the jungle, 95 00:10:29,658 --> 00:10:33,400 but the reservoirs still dominate the landscape of the plains, 96 00:10:33,547 --> 00:10:37,142 and they govern the lives of the island's wildlife, too. 97 00:10:41,420 --> 00:10:45,798 Yala lies in a remote corner on Sri Lanka's southeast coast. 98 00:10:50,636 --> 00:10:53,388 For hundreds of years, this land was ruled 99 00:10:53,548 --> 00:10:55,765 by a powerful dynasty. 100 00:10:58,091 --> 00:11:01,494 Today Yala is a national park. 101 00:11:06,524 --> 00:11:10,285 The landscape is dotted with pools, ponds, and reservoirs, 102 00:11:10,445 --> 00:11:14,744 every one of them carved by human hands centuries ago. 103 00:11:21,037 --> 00:11:24,568 These water holes attract a huge variety of birds. 104 00:11:29,069 --> 00:11:32,958 Each year migrants from India and further afield 105 00:11:33,118 --> 00:11:36,667 arrive to swell the ranks of permanent residents. 106 00:11:37,645 --> 00:11:41,070 Yala is home to over 200 different species. 107 00:11:48,708 --> 00:11:54,200 Many of the birds have unique adaptations that allow them to eat specific types of food. 108 00:12:02,499 --> 00:12:04,996 Openbill storks feed almost exclusively 109 00:12:05,156 --> 00:12:07,534 on fresh water snails. 110 00:12:12,212 --> 00:12:16,126 Their distinctive open bill is the perfect tool for the job. 111 00:12:20,885 --> 00:12:23,652 The gap between the upper and lower mandibles 112 00:12:23,812 --> 00:12:27,391 allows the stork to use its bill like a pair of pincers. 113 00:12:28,837 --> 00:12:34,560 It can delicately extract the soft meat without having to break the snail's shell. 114 00:12:44,948 --> 00:12:48,245 Purple swamp hens mainly eat plants, 115 00:12:48,405 --> 00:12:51,839 and they too are perfectly equipped for this habitat. 116 00:12:54,740 --> 00:12:59,520 The bird's huge feet make walking on marshy ground much easier. 117 00:13:01,717 --> 00:13:06,520 But its feet are also an important part of how the swamp hen finds its food. 118 00:13:09,909 --> 00:13:13,141 It uses its foot to hold the plant above the water 119 00:13:13,301 --> 00:13:16,446 while selecting the parts it wants to eat. 120 00:13:30,708 --> 00:13:33,156 Yala's ancient reservoirs are not just a lifeline 121 00:13:33,316 --> 00:13:35,506 for the birds that live here. 122 00:13:37,686 --> 00:13:40,480 A year-round supply of water makes it a haven 123 00:13:40,633 --> 00:13:45,731 for big herbivores like water buffalos, wild boar, and elephants. 124 00:13:56,668 --> 00:13:59,165 Each morning large herds of spotted deer 125 00:13:59,325 --> 00:14:02,327 gather around Yala's water holes to drink. 126 00:14:13,036 --> 00:14:17,126 Like all of Sri Lanka's deer, only the males have antlers. 127 00:14:19,004 --> 00:14:21,959 These are shed and regrown each year. 128 00:14:26,045 --> 00:14:28,557 The deer have glands on their faces and feet 129 00:14:28,717 --> 00:14:30,679 which release scent. 130 00:14:35,165 --> 00:14:39,932 Stags mark their territory by leaving their scent on grasses and trees, 131 00:14:40,092 --> 00:14:42,806 and by making scrapes in the ground. 132 00:14:52,285 --> 00:14:57,760 As for most herbivores, the dry season is a difficult time for spotted deer. 133 00:14:59,580 --> 00:15:01,756 To survive for months without rain, 134 00:15:01,916 --> 00:15:05,197 many plants stop growing to conserve water, 135 00:15:05,357 --> 00:15:07,943 and some lose their leaves altogether. 136 00:15:12,060 --> 00:15:17,600 With less vegetation available the deer must travel further in search of food. 137 00:15:19,101 --> 00:15:21,324 But Yala's ancient reservoirs ensure that 138 00:15:21,484 --> 00:15:24,487 a lack of water is rarely a problem. 139 00:15:26,972 --> 00:15:30,360 This allows the deer to survive in unusually high numbers here, 140 00:15:30,525 --> 00:15:32,525 even at the height of the drought, 141 00:15:32,685 --> 00:15:36,022 making Yala the ideal habitat for a deadly predator. 142 00:15:44,788 --> 00:15:48,639 Over 40 Sri Lankan leopards stalk the park. 143 00:15:58,821 --> 00:16:02,520 This is one of the highest concentrations of leopards in the world, 144 00:16:02,676 --> 00:16:05,759 with up to one leopard every square kilometer. 145 00:16:14,452 --> 00:16:17,509 The spotted deer are their main prey. 146 00:16:21,959 --> 00:16:24,942 But the deer stay close to a useful ally. 147 00:16:27,765 --> 00:16:29,812 Keeping a lookout in the trees, 148 00:16:29,972 --> 00:16:32,628 grey langurs raise the alarm. 149 00:16:39,585 --> 00:16:42,827 Like most cats leopards hunt by stealth, 150 00:16:42,987 --> 00:16:45,546 getting as close as possible to their target 151 00:16:45,706 --> 00:16:48,155 before launching a killer charge. 152 00:17:02,447 --> 00:17:05,743 Given the chance the leopard will hunt the langurs, too, 153 00:17:05,903 --> 00:17:09,385 though these agile monkeys make a difficult prey. 154 00:17:17,743 --> 00:17:19,662 This leopard is just a youngster, 155 00:17:19,822 --> 00:17:22,648 and still learning to hunt for himself. 156 00:17:27,847 --> 00:17:30,072 During the day the deer and the langurs 157 00:17:30,232 --> 00:17:32,136 are in their element, 158 00:17:33,936 --> 00:17:37,153 but at night the leopard's ambush-hunting technique 159 00:17:37,313 --> 00:17:39,099 comes into its own. 160 00:17:40,721 --> 00:17:43,531 Far better for him to wait for dark. 161 00:17:52,305 --> 00:17:55,488 In Sri Lanka leopards hold an unchallenged position 162 00:17:55,648 --> 00:17:58,138 at the top of the food chain. 163 00:18:01,456 --> 00:18:03,329 Their isolation on this island 164 00:18:03,489 --> 00:18:06,609 has led to their becoming a distinct sub-species. 165 00:18:06,769 --> 00:18:09,601 There are no lions or tigers on the island, 166 00:18:09,761 --> 00:18:13,642 and so Sri Lanka's leopards have grown particularly big. 167 00:18:14,785 --> 00:18:17,856 Fully grown males can weigh up to 80 kg. 168 00:18:18,016 --> 00:18:21,322 They're the biggest leopards in the world. 169 00:18:24,704 --> 00:18:27,953 Because of their size and status as the top predator, 170 00:18:28,113 --> 00:18:31,099 Sri Lanka's leopards are remarkably confident. 171 00:18:33,505 --> 00:18:35,824 Elsewhere it's unusual to see a leopard 172 00:18:35,984 --> 00:18:38,762 out in the open in broad daylight. 173 00:18:47,553 --> 00:18:50,545 But even in Yala, mothers with young cubs 174 00:18:50,705 --> 00:18:52,586 are much more cautious. 175 00:18:52,746 --> 00:18:55,589 It's extremely rare to see them. 176 00:19:02,394 --> 00:19:04,186 Hidden deep within the thick scrub 177 00:19:04,346 --> 00:19:06,523 is her kill from last night, 178 00:19:06,683 --> 00:19:09,301 the carcass of a grey langur. 179 00:19:30,251 --> 00:19:32,747 For some animals the arrival of the dry season 180 00:19:32,907 --> 00:19:35,301 heralds a time of plenty. 181 00:19:37,611 --> 00:19:39,819 As Yala's water holes begin to shrink, 182 00:19:39,979 --> 00:19:43,909 fish and amphibians are trapped within ever-smaller pools. 183 00:19:46,026 --> 00:19:47,771 There are fewer places to hide 184 00:19:47,931 --> 00:19:52,116 and there's no escaping the watchful gaze of a purple heron. 185 00:20:00,411 --> 00:20:02,363 With plenty of food available, 186 00:20:02,523 --> 00:20:05,365 this is a good time of year to start a family. 187 00:20:08,187 --> 00:20:11,845 For many animals, June brings the mating season. 188 00:20:17,306 --> 00:20:19,962 When white-throated kingfishers are courting, 189 00:20:20,122 --> 00:20:22,533 they share gifts of food. 190 00:20:26,202 --> 00:20:30,640 But this male seems reluctant to hand over the frog he's caught. 191 00:20:48,842 --> 00:20:52,296 Eventually the female simply catches her own. 192 00:21:05,742 --> 00:21:09,368 There are bigger predators fishing in Yala's water holes. 193 00:21:15,918 --> 00:21:18,493 Mugger crocodiles cruise the pools, 194 00:21:18,653 --> 00:21:23,520 making the most of the bounty of fish now trapped within their confines. 195 00:21:25,965 --> 00:21:27,709 Nowhere else in the Indian sub-continent 196 00:21:27,869 --> 00:21:30,590 supports these huge reptiles in such great numbers 197 00:21:30,750 --> 00:21:33,704 as the tiny island of Sri Lanka. 198 00:21:39,677 --> 00:21:42,014 The crocodiles eat mainly fish, 199 00:21:42,174 --> 00:21:46,880 but larger males will also prey on animals they can seize from the water's edge. 200 00:21:48,286 --> 00:21:52,320 The muggers are unlikely to attack one of the biggest mammals on Earth, 201 00:21:56,587 --> 00:22:00,880 although a water buffalo and her calf remain on the alert. 202 00:22:08,317 --> 00:22:13,720 But by late morning the crocodiles are no longer interested in food. 203 00:22:16,445 --> 00:22:20,471 For them too, June is the start of the mating season. 204 00:22:22,669 --> 00:22:24,925 Confined within small pools, 205 00:22:25,085 --> 00:22:28,262 the muggers are forced to become much more sociable. 206 00:22:31,884 --> 00:22:37,160 Males compete for dominance by thrashing the surface of the water. 207 00:22:43,577 --> 00:22:45,787 Having trounced his rivals, 208 00:22:45,947 --> 00:22:49,237 the victor wins access to the female. 209 00:23:04,571 --> 00:23:07,994 The crocodiles aren't the only ones intent on courtship. 210 00:23:11,654 --> 00:23:14,635 Bee-eaters nest during the dry season, 211 00:23:14,795 --> 00:23:18,600 so there's no risk of their burrow being flooded by rain water. 212 00:23:23,402 --> 00:23:26,473 The tunnel will extend up to two meters underground, 213 00:23:26,633 --> 00:23:29,556 where the eggs will be safe from predators. 214 00:23:40,890 --> 00:23:43,716 The work gives the birds a healthy appetite. 215 00:23:45,897 --> 00:23:47,577 As their name suggests, 216 00:23:47,737 --> 00:23:50,643 bee-eaters specialize in catching bees. 217 00:24:02,875 --> 00:24:05,258 Each pair shares a favorite perch 218 00:24:05,418 --> 00:24:07,508 from which they go hunting. 219 00:24:14,667 --> 00:24:18,011 Before eating the bee, the bird removes the sting 220 00:24:18,171 --> 00:24:20,676 and wipes off the venom. 221 00:24:25,898 --> 00:24:28,090 These birds are prolific hunters, 222 00:24:28,250 --> 00:24:31,636 sometimes catching several hundred insects a day. 223 00:24:44,347 --> 00:24:46,778 The ancient reservoirs are not the only legacy 224 00:24:46,938 --> 00:24:52,440 of Sri Lanka's human history that continues to provide a safe haven for wildlife. 225 00:25:00,315 --> 00:25:03,707 A thousand years ago, this sprawling metropolis 226 00:25:03,867 --> 00:25:06,004 was Sri Lanka's capitol. 227 00:25:12,939 --> 00:25:15,275 Lying in the northeastern lowlands, 228 00:25:15,435 --> 00:25:19,364 ruins are all that remain of the city of Pollonaruwa. 229 00:25:25,354 --> 00:25:30,840 In its glory days Pollonaruwa saw the rise and fall of human dynasties. 230 00:25:39,195 --> 00:25:43,461 Nowadays this ancient city is overrun by monkeys. 231 00:25:46,267 --> 00:25:50,920 Hundreds of toque macaques battle for territory amongst the ruins. 232 00:25:57,371 --> 00:26:00,901 The macaques live in big groups of up to 40 animals. 233 00:26:04,075 --> 00:26:09,400 They follow a strict hierarchy under the leadership of an alpha male. 234 00:26:13,691 --> 00:26:18,453 Each macaque has a distinct personality and hairstyle. 235 00:26:20,635 --> 00:26:23,397 Females have colorful red faces. 236 00:26:29,387 --> 00:26:34,040 The troop relies on the knowledge of older females to lead them to food. 237 00:26:39,242 --> 00:26:42,453 In this case, a flowering tree. 238 00:27:11,211 --> 00:27:14,033 Macaques can eat virtually anything, 239 00:27:17,343 --> 00:27:22,240 but during the dry season good food gets harder to find. 240 00:27:26,266 --> 00:27:30,933 Dead leaves may hide insects, tree nuts, and fallen fruit. 241 00:27:34,923 --> 00:27:39,560 Lower-ranking monkeys must wait for those of higher status to eat first. 242 00:27:51,130 --> 00:27:53,179 This is a fiercely competitive world. 243 00:27:55,301 --> 00:27:57,428 Monkeys that ignore the pecking order 244 00:27:57,588 --> 00:28:00,191 don't go unnoticed by the alpha male. 245 00:28:19,445 --> 00:28:21,556 Toque macaques have cheek pouches 246 00:28:21,716 --> 00:28:25,503 which contain a special enzyme to help them digest food. 247 00:28:29,749 --> 00:28:33,534 The pouches are also a good place to hide food from rivals. 248 00:28:38,437 --> 00:28:40,709 Even this doesn't always prevent a high-ranking monkey 249 00:28:40,869 --> 00:28:43,423 from trying to steal their entitlement. 250 00:28:44,709 --> 00:28:47,316 If the monkey of lower status resists too strongly, 251 00:28:47,476 --> 00:28:49,646 she'll be reprimanded. 252 00:28:57,729 --> 00:29:02,101 After eating young males engage in boisterous bouts of play, 253 00:29:02,261 --> 00:29:05,588 oblivious to their auspicious surroundings. 254 00:29:15,011 --> 00:29:20,640 Once fully grown these youngsters will have to leave the group and go it alone. 255 00:29:41,663 --> 00:29:44,017 Good fighting skills may one day mean 256 00:29:44,177 --> 00:29:46,572 the difference between life and death. 257 00:29:49,618 --> 00:29:51,714 For toque macaques, the greatest threat 258 00:29:51,874 --> 00:29:54,076 comes from other toque macaques. 259 00:29:56,770 --> 00:29:59,585 Fully grown males are twice as big as females 260 00:29:59,745 --> 00:30:02,524 and have huge canine teeth. 261 00:30:04,481 --> 00:30:08,073 For males the hierarchy controls not just access to food, 262 00:30:08,233 --> 00:30:11,050 but also access to mates. 263 00:30:21,596 --> 00:30:25,840 The alpha male has fathered most of the youngsters in this troop. 264 00:30:27,993 --> 00:30:29,842 In toque macaque society, 265 00:30:30,002 --> 00:30:33,485 it pays to make friends rather than enemies. 266 00:30:50,127 --> 00:30:53,599 The monkeys are left to roam the ruins of Pollonaruwa, 267 00:30:53,759 --> 00:30:57,760 even though it's one of Sri Lanka's most important Buddhist monuments. 268 00:31:03,631 --> 00:31:06,064 This island is steeped in over 2,000 years 269 00:31:06,224 --> 00:31:07,994 of Buddhist tradition. 270 00:31:12,143 --> 00:31:15,353 Buddhism teaches the sanctity of all living things. 271 00:31:15,513 --> 00:31:18,724 No animals should be harmed unnecessarily. 272 00:31:30,618 --> 00:31:33,561 Over the centuries, Buddhism has played its part 273 00:31:33,721 --> 00:31:37,514 in conserving and protecting Sri Lanka's wild animals, 274 00:31:39,714 --> 00:31:41,651 even dangerous ones. 275 00:31:46,298 --> 00:31:49,322 The bodhi tree is sacred in Buddhist belief, 276 00:31:49,482 --> 00:31:52,868 and these trees are grown in many of the island's temples. 277 00:31:55,050 --> 00:31:58,489 Flames lit as offerings attract insects to the tree, 278 00:31:58,649 --> 00:32:01,236 which in turn, attract small reptiles. 279 00:32:03,481 --> 00:32:05,939 This brings bigger hunters. 280 00:32:10,730 --> 00:32:16,320 Sri Lanka has one of the highest incidences of death by snake bite of any country on Earth. 281 00:32:22,170 --> 00:32:26,499 A bite from this spectacled cobra can kill within minutes. 282 00:32:32,362 --> 00:32:36,280 But because Buddhism teaches respect for all living creatures, 283 00:32:36,457 --> 00:32:38,873 poisonous snakes aren't just tolerated, 284 00:32:39,033 --> 00:32:42,452 they're actually respected by many Sri Lankans. 285 00:32:52,650 --> 00:32:54,641 No animal is as intimately connected 286 00:32:54,801 --> 00:32:58,483 to the history and culture of Sri Lanka as the elephant. 287 00:33:02,169 --> 00:33:03,962 Centuries ago these huge mammals 288 00:33:04,122 --> 00:33:07,018 were used to build the foundations of great cities, 289 00:33:07,178 --> 00:33:09,732 and to carve out their reservoirs. 290 00:33:16,090 --> 00:33:18,122 To this day, elephants still play 291 00:33:18,282 --> 00:33:21,092 an important role in island life. 292 00:33:37,577 --> 00:33:41,840 Few Buddhist festivals are complete without a retinue of elephants. 293 00:33:51,050 --> 00:33:52,585 For religious ceremonies, 294 00:33:52,745 --> 00:33:55,332 it's important the elephants have tusks. 295 00:33:58,473 --> 00:34:02,905 In Sri Lanka, less than 10% of male elephants are tuskers, 296 00:34:03,065 --> 00:34:05,882 so temple elephants are usually imported 297 00:34:06,042 --> 00:34:07,924 from elsewhere in Asia. 298 00:34:17,630 --> 00:34:21,174 A wild Sri Lankan tusker is a rare sight. 299 00:34:39,980 --> 00:34:43,467 In the south of the island the hills rise out of the plains 300 00:34:43,627 --> 00:34:46,694 to form Sri Lanka's mountainous heart. 301 00:34:51,916 --> 00:34:54,620 The core of the central highlands is a high plateau 302 00:34:54,780 --> 00:34:58,533 running north to south for around 60 km. 303 00:35:07,676 --> 00:35:11,509 The peaks are shrouded in a swiftly-moving blanket of cloud. 304 00:35:20,747 --> 00:35:22,668 The cloud forests feel a world away 305 00:35:22,828 --> 00:35:25,366 from the sweltering heat of the plains. 306 00:35:29,740 --> 00:35:33,200 Though Sri Lanka's lowlands are in the grip of the dry season, 307 00:35:33,372 --> 00:35:38,262 up here there's no shortage of water all year round. 308 00:35:44,827 --> 00:35:49,880 The lichens, mosses, and ferns that cloak every tree act like sponges. 309 00:35:53,928 --> 00:35:56,587 In a process known as fog stripping, 310 00:35:56,747 --> 00:35:59,302 they absorb moisture from the clouds. 311 00:36:04,523 --> 00:36:07,284 Gradually this is released into the many waterways 312 00:36:07,444 --> 00:36:09,494 that criss-cross the highlands. 313 00:36:13,932 --> 00:36:16,956 Three major rivers have their origins here, 314 00:36:17,116 --> 00:36:20,630 delivering precious water down to the arid plains. 315 00:36:26,635 --> 00:36:29,004 Just like the ancient reservoirs, 316 00:36:29,164 --> 00:36:31,547 Sri Lanka's cold heart plays its part 317 00:36:31,707 --> 00:36:35,526 in sustaining the whole island through periods of drought. 318 00:36:42,508 --> 00:36:45,692 The constant supply of water means that the central highlands 319 00:36:45,852 --> 00:36:49,240 can support an astonishing variety of different animals. 320 00:36:51,644 --> 00:36:53,974 Many are found nowhere else on Earth. 321 00:36:58,539 --> 00:37:00,812 These forests shelter a rare primate 322 00:37:00,972 --> 00:37:03,116 that's found only in Sri Lanka, 323 00:37:03,276 --> 00:37:05,589 the purple-faced langur. 324 00:37:08,700 --> 00:37:11,420 There are purple-faced langurs in the lowlands, too, 325 00:37:11,580 --> 00:37:15,125 but those in the highlands are a distinct sub-species. 326 00:37:20,972 --> 00:37:24,470 They're specially adapted to deal with the extreme weather. 327 00:37:28,507 --> 00:37:33,640 Their thick, shaggy coats have earned them the nickname, the bear monkey. 328 00:37:41,420 --> 00:37:43,243 Langurs are leaf-eaters, 329 00:37:43,403 --> 00:37:45,781 and they spend a lot of time feeding. 330 00:37:50,347 --> 00:37:55,200 Leaves are selected with care and often with considerable effort. 331 00:38:00,283 --> 00:38:02,412 Younger leaves contain more protein 332 00:38:02,572 --> 00:38:05,030 and are easier to digest. 333 00:38:19,787 --> 00:38:23,179 It may be 30° C down on the plains, 334 00:38:23,339 --> 00:38:25,547 but up here the nighttime temperatures 335 00:38:25,707 --> 00:38:27,926 can fall below zero. 336 00:38:30,703 --> 00:38:34,048 The herds of sambar deer that graze the windswept plateau 337 00:38:34,208 --> 00:38:37,162 have thick fur to protect them from the cold. 338 00:38:47,861 --> 00:38:50,038 They're the only species of deer on the island 339 00:38:50,198 --> 00:38:53,424 that can survive the cold conditions of the central highlands. 340 00:38:59,461 --> 00:39:01,877 Though they live in the heart of a tropical island, 341 00:39:02,037 --> 00:39:05,808 the animals in the highlands have had to adapt to the cold. 342 00:39:14,005 --> 00:39:16,822 Even in the undergrowth, the cloud forest harbors 343 00:39:16,982 --> 00:39:19,568 many unique animals and plants. 344 00:39:30,358 --> 00:39:34,432 Half the reptiles that live here are found nowhere else. 345 00:39:36,694 --> 00:39:39,430 At less than 10 cm long, 346 00:39:39,590 --> 00:39:43,472 the Sri Lankan pygmy lizard lives up to its name. 347 00:39:47,525 --> 00:39:49,936 These tiny lizards are also well-adapted 348 00:39:50,096 --> 00:39:52,169 to cope with the cold. 349 00:40:00,655 --> 00:40:03,552 Eggs are hatched inside the body of the parent 350 00:40:03,712 --> 00:40:06,666 to protect them from the temperatures outside. 351 00:40:10,479 --> 00:40:12,783 Unlike almost all other reptiles, 352 00:40:12,943 --> 00:40:16,793 the Sri Lankan pygmy lizard gives birth to live young. 353 00:40:23,056 --> 00:40:28,040 The highlands may be cold but the constant supply of water drives diversity, 354 00:40:28,208 --> 00:40:30,857 just like in a tropical rainforest. 355 00:40:33,503 --> 00:40:37,248 The male rhino-horned lizard bears a horn on its nose 356 00:40:37,408 --> 00:40:39,962 that can grow almost half an inch long. 357 00:40:43,583 --> 00:40:47,600 The exact purpose of this strange growth remains a mystery. 358 00:40:49,551 --> 00:40:52,832 The female rhino-horned lizard also has a horn, 359 00:40:52,992 --> 00:40:55,610 but it's considerably smaller. 360 00:40:57,727 --> 00:41:01,207 Sri Lanka's highlands remain relatively unexplored. 361 00:41:01,367 --> 00:41:06,120 Little is known about some of the unusual animals that live here. 362 00:41:13,049 --> 00:41:14,568 Out on the plateau, 363 00:41:14,728 --> 00:41:17,305 even within one small rhododendron bush, 364 00:41:17,465 --> 00:41:19,353 there's a unique community of animals 365 00:41:19,513 --> 00:41:21,555 that are found nowhere else. 366 00:41:24,009 --> 00:41:27,515 Its flowers provide sanctuary for a black-cheeked lizard. 367 00:41:40,754 --> 00:41:44,302 On a neighboring bush there's a rival male. 368 00:41:46,702 --> 00:41:49,799 Black-cheeked lizards are fiercely territorial. 369 00:41:52,973 --> 00:41:56,598 Head nodding serves as a warning to stay away. 370 00:42:09,382 --> 00:42:13,312 The Ceylon white-eye is a common sight in the rhododendrons. 371 00:42:16,182 --> 00:42:18,181 But like so many of the animals here, 372 00:42:18,341 --> 00:42:21,312 these birds are only found in the highlands. 373 00:42:26,998 --> 00:42:30,278 Each time the white-eye dips its head to feed on nectar, 374 00:42:30,438 --> 00:42:33,168 it collects a fine coat of pollen. 375 00:42:34,342 --> 00:42:37,078 The bird transfers this pollen from plant to plant 376 00:42:37,238 --> 00:42:42,400 and may well play a part in helping the rhododendrons to reproduce. 377 00:42:44,038 --> 00:42:48,656 If so, it's helping to preserve yet another unique species. 378 00:42:50,133 --> 00:42:54,800 The rhododendron is itself a sub-species that only grows in the highlands. 379 00:43:02,485 --> 00:43:04,822 Though they cover less than a third of the island, 380 00:43:04,982 --> 00:43:08,111 the highlands are what makes Sri Lanka so special. 381 00:43:12,053 --> 00:43:15,229 A staggering number of plants and animals in the highlands 382 00:43:15,389 --> 00:43:17,423 are found nowhere else on Earth. 383 00:43:20,245 --> 00:43:24,426 Half the tree species are found only in the cloud forest, 384 00:43:28,626 --> 00:43:31,541 and over a third of the island's flowering plants 385 00:43:31,701 --> 00:43:33,968 grow only in the mountains. 386 00:43:47,478 --> 00:43:50,118 These cold, wet highlands make Sri Lanka 387 00:43:50,278 --> 00:43:53,471 one of the most species-rich islands on the planet. 388 00:44:10,518 --> 00:44:12,837 By late September, the drought in the lowlands 389 00:44:12,997 --> 00:44:15,023 is reaching its peak. 390 00:44:18,486 --> 00:44:22,192 It's almost eight months since the last rain fell in Yala. 391 00:44:28,278 --> 00:44:30,838 At this time of year a good sunscreen 392 00:44:30,998 --> 00:44:33,296 is more important than ever. 393 00:44:39,957 --> 00:44:43,382 Applying a layer of dust helps protect against the sun 394 00:44:43,542 --> 00:44:46,672 and rids the skin of any parasites. 395 00:44:54,758 --> 00:44:58,112 The water in the ancient reservoirs is greatly reduced. 396 00:45:15,910 --> 00:45:18,389 Flocks of painted storks use their feet 397 00:45:18,549 --> 00:45:20,656 to stir up any fish. 398 00:45:33,366 --> 00:45:37,825 The fish are easy to catch but there's lots of competition, 399 00:45:42,445 --> 00:45:44,863 and it's not just from the other birds. 400 00:45:50,694 --> 00:45:54,847 The storks startle fish straight into the crocodile's jaws. 401 00:45:57,333 --> 00:45:59,510 This may be why the storks can hunt so close 402 00:45:59,670 --> 00:46:02,112 to this huge predator without fear. 403 00:46:10,582 --> 00:46:14,581 In the sweltering heat spotted deer seek out the small pools of water 404 00:46:14,741 --> 00:46:17,951 that remain in Yala's rocky outcrops. 405 00:46:24,950 --> 00:46:27,718 These tiny oases were formed from rainwater 406 00:46:27,878 --> 00:46:30,183 during the last monsoon. 407 00:46:30,343 --> 00:46:33,376 Some are deep enough to persist throughout the year. 408 00:46:35,574 --> 00:46:38,630 The deer are nervous, and with good reason. 409 00:46:46,549 --> 00:46:48,709 These outcrops are the daytime haunts 410 00:46:48,869 --> 00:46:50,863 of Yala's top predator. 411 00:46:52,006 --> 00:46:55,190 The rocks provide a cool sanctuary in the heat of the day, 412 00:46:55,350 --> 00:47:00,280 and a high vantage-point to observe the comings and goings of their prey. 413 00:47:05,222 --> 00:47:07,222 As the sun begins to set, 414 00:47:07,382 --> 00:47:10,207 Yala's leopards start to stir. 415 00:47:13,765 --> 00:47:16,832 It's at night that they do most of their hunting. 416 00:47:50,351 --> 00:47:53,417 During the night the leopard has made a kill. 417 00:48:05,984 --> 00:48:07,680 Weakened by the drought, 418 00:48:07,840 --> 00:48:10,825 many spotted deer perish at this time of year. 419 00:48:12,975 --> 00:48:15,225 But relief is in sight. 420 00:48:20,656 --> 00:48:24,825 In October, the prevailing wind changes direction. 421 00:48:29,792 --> 00:48:32,847 The winds collect moist air from the Indian Ocean 422 00:48:33,007 --> 00:48:35,834 and drive it toward Sri Lanka's lowlands. 423 00:48:47,776 --> 00:48:50,778 The monsoon has finally arrived. 424 00:48:57,136 --> 00:49:00,426 Within days, the plains are awash. 425 00:49:06,447 --> 00:49:08,175 Over the next four months, 426 00:49:08,335 --> 00:49:12,440 parts of the lowlands will receive nearly 200 cm of rain. 427 00:49:18,016 --> 00:49:23,000 Every precious drop is captured in Sri Lanka's ancient man-made reservoirs. 428 00:49:36,014 --> 00:49:39,439 The rain brings new growth and abundant food 429 00:49:39,599 --> 00:49:41,801 for the lowland's herbivores. 430 00:49:47,183 --> 00:49:49,311 In the ancient city of Pollonaruwa, 431 00:49:49,471 --> 00:49:51,768 the forest is transformed. 432 00:49:54,302 --> 00:49:58,137 The toque macaques easily adjust to their new environment. 433 00:50:03,311 --> 00:50:08,320 For most of the year plants and fruits form their staple diet. 434 00:50:21,233 --> 00:50:23,520 But the more experienced monkeys have learned 435 00:50:23,680 --> 00:50:28,480 that the flush of new vegetation brings an annual protein-rich feast. 436 00:50:31,024 --> 00:50:32,633 Caterpillars. 437 00:50:50,529 --> 00:50:53,675 For centuries all life on Sri Lanka has centered 438 00:50:53,835 --> 00:50:57,780 on one precious resource, water. 439 00:51:03,754 --> 00:51:07,178 Bygone civilizations built a network of ancient reservoirs 440 00:51:07,338 --> 00:51:09,578 that capture the monsoon rains 441 00:51:09,738 --> 00:51:13,925 and sustain the lowlands through months of drought. 442 00:51:17,403 --> 00:51:19,898 In the island's cold, mountainous heart, 443 00:51:20,058 --> 00:51:23,092 there's plenty of water all year round, 444 00:51:24,651 --> 00:51:30,200 and the highlands are home to an extraordinary number of animals that are found nowhere else. 445 00:51:34,331 --> 00:51:37,035 The complicated climate of this tiny island 446 00:51:37,195 --> 00:51:42,200 is what makes Sri Lanka one of the most species-rich places on Earth. 38046

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