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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:04,438 --> 00:00:09,176 The wild Pacific Coast of Vancouver Island. 2 00:00:09,176 --> 00:00:11,411 An ancient and rugged landscape 3 00:00:11,411 --> 00:00:14,314 off the western shore of British Columbia. 4 00:00:17,784 --> 00:00:21,455 From the icy peaks of age-old mountain glaciers... 5 00:00:23,457 --> 00:00:27,494 ...to the fog-shrouded canopies of Canada's only rainforest, 6 00:00:29,630 --> 00:00:33,133 this is the wettest place in North America. 7 00:00:34,468 --> 00:00:36,303 A primitive habitat 8 00:00:36,303 --> 00:00:40,240 where the Pacific Ocean holds the key to life. 9 00:00:40,240 --> 00:00:42,209 That's why this is one of the most remarkable places 10 00:00:42,209 --> 00:00:43,744 on Earth. 11 00:00:45,212 --> 00:00:47,748 A land locked in time, 12 00:00:47,748 --> 00:00:51,318 where nature and the human spirit coexist. 13 00:00:51,318 --> 00:00:55,355 It's just everything you'd want if you're an adventurous person. 14 00:00:55,355 --> 00:00:57,891 A paradise for creatures 15 00:00:57,891 --> 00:01:01,261 adapted to life by the sea. 16 00:01:01,261 --> 00:01:03,664 And a never-before-seen view 17 00:01:03,664 --> 00:01:08,268 of one of the most sacred places on Earth. 18 00:01:08,268 --> 00:01:18,312 (♪♪♪) 19 00:01:18,312 --> 00:01:28,288 (♪♪♪) 20 00:01:28,288 --> 00:01:43,203 (♪♪♪) 21 00:01:56,783 --> 00:02:00,988 Vancouver Island's Pacific Coast, 22 00:02:02,723 --> 00:02:07,561 a lush old-growth rainforest that spans nearly 300 miles 23 00:02:07,561 --> 00:02:11,064 of the western shores of British Columbia, Canada. 24 00:02:14,167 --> 00:02:16,703 It's the largest island on the western coast 25 00:02:16,703 --> 00:02:19,506 of the Americas. 26 00:02:19,506 --> 00:02:22,642 And the wettest place in North America. 27 00:02:25,312 --> 00:02:29,282 Winters here are moist and mild. 28 00:02:29,282 --> 00:02:34,087 Temperatures rarely dip below 30°. 29 00:02:34,087 --> 00:02:36,790 It is an unusually warm climate 30 00:02:36,790 --> 00:02:40,494 in a country known for its raw and bitter winters. 31 00:02:43,096 --> 00:02:45,599 Surprisingly, the small town of Tofino, 32 00:02:45,599 --> 00:02:47,467 on the western shore, 33 00:02:47,467 --> 00:02:52,205 receives the least snow of any town in Canada. 34 00:02:52,205 --> 00:02:56,643 But what it lacks in snow, Tofino makes up for with rain. 35 00:02:59,179 --> 00:03:03,450 As many as 27 feet of rain fall on Tofino each year. 36 00:03:05,252 --> 00:03:07,487 The downpours are seasonal. 37 00:03:07,487 --> 00:03:10,824 December alone brings more rain to the town 38 00:03:10,824 --> 00:03:13,360 than some parts of British Columbia receive 39 00:03:13,360 --> 00:03:15,695 in an entire year. 40 00:03:15,695 --> 00:03:18,532 As a result, the region is home 41 00:03:18,532 --> 00:03:21,768 to one of the world's most unusual ecosystems, 42 00:03:23,637 --> 00:03:27,307 a temperate coastal rainforest. 43 00:03:27,307 --> 00:03:31,278 In summer, steady heat brings little rain. 44 00:03:31,278 --> 00:03:34,081 And the climate feels almost Mediterranean. 45 00:03:36,349 --> 00:03:40,087 This truly is a place like no other in Canada. 46 00:03:45,692 --> 00:03:47,794 Vancouver Island sits on top 47 00:03:47,794 --> 00:03:52,732 of the westward-moving North American tectonic plate. 48 00:03:52,732 --> 00:03:56,169 It's part of the Ring of Fire, 49 00:03:56,169 --> 00:03:59,539 a string of volcanoes, deep ocean trenches, 50 00:03:59,539 --> 00:04:03,009 and earthquake zones that circles the Pacific Ocean. 51 00:04:04,778 --> 00:04:08,281 It's an area renowned for its violent geology 52 00:04:08,281 --> 00:04:10,217 and volcanic activity. 53 00:04:13,553 --> 00:04:14,721 If you look at the direction 54 00:04:14,721 --> 00:04:16,323 in which all the continents are moving, 55 00:04:16,323 --> 00:04:18,225 you'll see that they're encroaching 56 00:04:18,225 --> 00:04:20,093 on the Pacific. 57 00:04:20,093 --> 00:04:22,295 So it's probably the most dangerous part 58 00:04:22,295 --> 00:04:23,797 of the planet, 59 00:04:23,797 --> 00:04:26,600 because that process, and we call it "subduction", 60 00:04:26,600 --> 00:04:30,570 generates enormous great earthquakes. 61 00:04:30,570 --> 00:04:34,407 It generates volcanoes, it generates tidal waves. 62 00:04:36,576 --> 00:04:39,312 Continental drift causes landmasses 63 00:04:39,312 --> 00:04:43,116 to move dramatically over time. 64 00:04:43,116 --> 00:04:45,619 Vancouver Island is a perfect example 65 00:04:45,619 --> 00:04:47,687 of this phenomenon at work. 66 00:04:51,258 --> 00:04:54,394 The island began its journey much farther south 67 00:04:54,394 --> 00:04:56,863 than it is today. 68 00:04:56,863 --> 00:04:59,366 It sits atop a large piece of crust 69 00:04:59,366 --> 00:05:01,234 called "Wrangellia". 70 00:05:03,136 --> 00:05:07,674 Born near the equator about 380 million years ago, 71 00:05:07,674 --> 00:05:12,212 Wrangellia slowly drifted northeast along fault lines 72 00:05:12,212 --> 00:05:15,749 at a rate of about 1 foot every 7 years. 73 00:05:15,749 --> 00:05:18,285 As it moved and fractured, 74 00:05:18,285 --> 00:05:22,122 the chunk of crust carried several different land masses 75 00:05:22,122 --> 00:05:25,625 colliding into the North American plate. 76 00:05:25,625 --> 00:05:28,628 These include Southeast Alaska, 77 00:05:28,628 --> 00:05:30,764 the Haida Gwaii archipelago 78 00:05:30,764 --> 00:05:33,433 on the North Coast of British Columbia, 79 00:05:33,433 --> 00:05:36,069 and Vancouver Island. 80 00:05:36,069 --> 00:05:39,606 It's like you pushing a broom across the floor 81 00:05:39,606 --> 00:05:42,242 and sweeping up debris. 82 00:05:42,242 --> 00:05:44,778 And so there's been a whole re-evaluation 83 00:05:44,778 --> 00:05:47,647 of the geology of Western Canada, 84 00:05:47,647 --> 00:05:51,384 and geologists now realize it's a mosaic. 85 00:05:51,384 --> 00:05:53,320 And the pieces actually originate 86 00:05:53,320 --> 00:05:55,355 from thousands of kilometers away, 87 00:05:55,355 --> 00:05:57,090 and they've been added to the West Coast 88 00:05:57,090 --> 00:05:59,526 of North America. 89 00:05:59,526 --> 00:06:02,529 Perhaps, surprisingly, this is not the last stop 90 00:06:02,529 --> 00:06:05,465 for Vancouver Island. 91 00:06:05,465 --> 00:06:08,034 It continues to drift north-eastward 92 00:06:08,034 --> 00:06:10,203 toward mainland Canada, 93 00:06:10,203 --> 00:06:13,373 about 1 to 2 inches each year, 94 00:06:13,373 --> 00:06:16,276 the same speed at which fingernails grow. 95 00:06:18,111 --> 00:06:21,348 Eventually, in about 500,000 years, 96 00:06:21,348 --> 00:06:24,317 the island will collide with the mainland 97 00:06:24,317 --> 00:06:28,722 to create a new landmass. 98 00:06:28,722 --> 00:06:32,425 Tectonic plate movement in this part of the Ring of Fire 99 00:06:32,425 --> 00:06:34,227 is dangerous 100 00:06:34,227 --> 00:06:36,796 and it's not necessarily millions of years 101 00:06:36,796 --> 00:06:39,666 into the future. 102 00:06:39,666 --> 00:06:42,102 There's something far more imminent 103 00:06:42,102 --> 00:06:44,671 that's of particular concern to scientists. 104 00:06:47,474 --> 00:06:49,643 A Megathrust earthquake, 105 00:06:49,643 --> 00:06:52,545 known locally as "The Really Big One". 106 00:06:55,148 --> 00:06:57,350 This earthquake is predicted to rival 107 00:06:57,350 --> 00:07:00,020 the disastrous quake and tsunami 108 00:07:00,020 --> 00:07:03,256 that devastated parts of Japan in 2011. 109 00:07:05,158 --> 00:07:10,030 Vancouver Island sits along the Cascadia subduction zone 110 00:07:10,030 --> 00:07:14,034 where the North America and Juan de Fuca tectonic plates 111 00:07:14,034 --> 00:07:17,203 are locked in a standoff. 112 00:07:17,203 --> 00:07:20,173 All the stress is building up, 113 00:07:20,173 --> 00:07:22,442 and there's a lot of anticipation 114 00:07:22,442 --> 00:07:26,212 and concern about when those plates unlock. 115 00:07:26,212 --> 00:07:28,148 And we get what we call a mega earthquake, 116 00:07:28,148 --> 00:07:30,417 a megathrust earthquake. 117 00:07:30,417 --> 00:07:33,320 And it could be tomorrow, it could be next year 118 00:07:33,320 --> 00:07:35,388 or maybe a thousand years' time. 119 00:07:35,388 --> 00:07:38,491 But there is a history in the rocks there 120 00:07:38,491 --> 00:07:42,362 of these repeated megathrust earthquakes. 121 00:07:42,362 --> 00:07:45,165 At a predicted magnitude of more than 9 122 00:07:45,165 --> 00:07:47,133 on the Richter scale, 123 00:07:47,133 --> 00:07:51,204 an earthquake this large would trigger a massive tsunami, 124 00:07:51,204 --> 00:07:54,207 nearly 400 miles wide. 125 00:07:54,207 --> 00:07:57,277 Spanning from San Francisco, California, 126 00:07:57,277 --> 00:07:59,379 to Juneau, Alaska, 127 00:07:59,379 --> 00:08:02,082 and across the ocean to the far shores 128 00:08:02,082 --> 00:08:03,983 of the western Pacific. 129 00:08:05,618 --> 00:08:08,722 The earthquake would devastate large cities 130 00:08:08,722 --> 00:08:12,692 including Vancouver, Victoria, Portland, and Seattle. 131 00:08:15,295 --> 00:08:18,264 A quake like this is unavoidable. 132 00:08:19,599 --> 00:08:23,436 The question is when will it strike? 133 00:08:25,271 --> 00:08:27,374 Geological records show 134 00:08:27,374 --> 00:08:29,642 that the last megathrust earthquake 135 00:08:29,642 --> 00:08:34,581 hit the Pacific Coast in the year 1700. 136 00:08:34,581 --> 00:08:38,318 Scientists say there is a one-in-three chance 137 00:08:38,318 --> 00:08:41,721 it will happen again within the next 50 years. 138 00:08:43,423 --> 00:08:45,525 Vancouver, British Columbia, 139 00:08:45,525 --> 00:08:48,695 could be among the cities worst affected. 140 00:08:48,695 --> 00:08:52,298 Vancouver is built largely on very soft sediment 141 00:08:52,298 --> 00:08:54,701 which was brought down by the Fraser River. 142 00:08:54,701 --> 00:08:57,170 So you've got this rather unstable situation 143 00:08:57,170 --> 00:08:59,339 of wet sediment. 144 00:08:59,339 --> 00:09:03,510 And we know from places like Japan, 145 00:09:03,510 --> 00:09:05,378 when you shake that wet sediment, 146 00:09:05,378 --> 00:09:07,647 it very often turns into a liquid. 147 00:09:07,647 --> 00:09:10,049 Buildings literally fall down 148 00:09:10,049 --> 00:09:13,620 through the softened sediment and tilt. 149 00:09:13,620 --> 00:09:17,157 So the effects of the megathrust earthquake 150 00:09:17,157 --> 00:09:19,759 can be actually magnified, 151 00:09:19,759 --> 00:09:21,795 because most of the city is underlined 152 00:09:21,795 --> 00:09:24,297 by soft, wet sediment. 153 00:09:26,232 --> 00:09:29,302 For now, the same geological processes 154 00:09:29,302 --> 00:09:31,671 that threaten Vancouver Island 155 00:09:31,671 --> 00:09:35,475 breathe life into its ecosystems. 156 00:09:35,475 --> 00:09:39,379 As fragments of plates have subducted under the island, 157 00:09:39,379 --> 00:09:43,750 its interior mountain range has risen up above. 158 00:09:43,750 --> 00:09:47,253 This mountain chain forms a rain shadow, 159 00:09:47,253 --> 00:09:50,790 an impenetrable wall of rock that prevents moisture 160 00:09:50,790 --> 00:09:54,727 moving inland from the ocean from passing over its peaks. 161 00:09:56,262 --> 00:09:58,731 It's the strongest factor in the creation 162 00:09:58,731 --> 00:10:02,669 of the Pacific temperate rainforest. 163 00:10:02,669 --> 00:10:06,573 By trapping precipitation on the west side of the island, 164 00:10:06,573 --> 00:10:10,477 the mountains cause huge amounts of fog and rainfall 165 00:10:10,477 --> 00:10:13,379 along the island's Pacific Coast, 166 00:10:13,379 --> 00:10:18,384 creating a lush rainforest unlike any other. 167 00:10:18,384 --> 00:10:22,121 On the edge of this unlikely northern jungle 168 00:10:22,121 --> 00:10:24,524 is Meares Island, 169 00:10:24,524 --> 00:10:27,727 an ancient-growth forest that's been held sacred 170 00:10:27,727 --> 00:10:30,396 for more than a thousand years. 171 00:10:30,396 --> 00:10:31,764 (Birds chirping) 172 00:10:31,764 --> 00:10:34,400 Meares Island is home to some of the largest 173 00:10:34,400 --> 00:10:38,304 and oldest trees on Earth, 174 00:10:38,304 --> 00:10:40,707 1,500-year-old cedars 175 00:10:40,707 --> 00:10:44,844 tended by local Tla-o-qui-aht First Nations. 176 00:10:44,844 --> 00:10:49,482 It is a harmonious relationship between humans and nature 177 00:10:49,482 --> 00:10:52,418 that has stood the test of time. 178 00:10:52,418 --> 00:10:54,888 We have an inter-generational responsibility 179 00:10:54,888 --> 00:10:58,591 that is passed on, you know, to be taking care 180 00:10:58,591 --> 00:11:01,094 not only of the land, but the ocean, the rivers, 181 00:11:01,094 --> 00:11:04,397 and all the living things that are in this area. 182 00:11:04,397 --> 00:11:07,567 (Birds chirping in distance) 183 00:11:07,567 --> 00:11:12,038 Meares Island is Canada's first official Tribal Park. 184 00:11:13,339 --> 00:11:16,709 Faced by the threat of logging in the 1980s, 185 00:11:16,709 --> 00:11:19,846 local people fought to protect their sacred land 186 00:11:19,846 --> 00:11:21,781 from deforestation. 187 00:11:23,316 --> 00:11:27,186 After intense negotiations with the Canadian government, 188 00:11:27,186 --> 00:11:29,155 they were successful. 189 00:11:29,155 --> 00:11:33,326 And Meares Island was declared a Tribal Park in 1984. 190 00:11:36,462 --> 00:11:40,533 Now under the watchful eye of Tla-o-qui-aht First Nations, 191 00:11:40,533 --> 00:11:43,636 the island is used as a nature park, 192 00:11:43,636 --> 00:11:46,873 where visitors can sit among some of the oldest trees 193 00:11:46,873 --> 00:11:48,675 on the planet. 194 00:11:48,675 --> 00:11:52,412 (Birds chirping in distance) 195 00:11:52,412 --> 00:11:55,548 Here on Meares Island's Big Tree Trail 196 00:11:55,548 --> 00:11:59,285 stands one of the largest and oldest living organisms 197 00:11:59,285 --> 00:12:00,620 on Earth... 198 00:12:00,620 --> 00:12:02,722 (Birds chirping in distance) 199 00:12:02,722 --> 00:12:06,526 ...the Hanging Garden Tree. 200 00:12:06,526 --> 00:12:10,229 A western red cedar 60 feet wide, 201 00:12:10,229 --> 00:12:13,433 it's more than 2,000 years old. 202 00:12:13,433 --> 00:12:17,470 And was likely just a sapling at the dawn of Christianity. 203 00:12:20,173 --> 00:12:23,076 Some of these ancient red cedars can reach heights 204 00:12:23,076 --> 00:12:26,813 of more than 170 feet. 205 00:12:26,813 --> 00:12:30,683 There are only a few of these majestic giants left 206 00:12:30,683 --> 00:12:33,386 on Vancouver Island. 207 00:12:33,386 --> 00:12:36,789 Years of deforestation and development destroyed 208 00:12:36,789 --> 00:12:40,226 much of the island's old growth. 209 00:12:40,226 --> 00:12:42,695 But the time-worn cedars that do remain 210 00:12:42,695 --> 00:12:46,132 are able to grow to staggering proportions 211 00:12:46,132 --> 00:12:48,534 due to the torrents of precipitation that fall 212 00:12:48,534 --> 00:12:52,739 each year. 213 00:12:52,739 --> 00:12:57,410 Heavy rainfall in the winter and extreme fog in the summer 214 00:12:57,410 --> 00:13:00,813 create a constant dampness that prevents forest fires 215 00:13:00,813 --> 00:13:04,450 from igniting and burning down these ancient woods. 216 00:13:09,055 --> 00:13:12,125 But it isn't just a warm, sodden climate 217 00:13:12,125 --> 00:13:15,495 that keeps this forest flourishing. 218 00:13:15,495 --> 00:13:19,265 It's protected by another guardian. 219 00:13:19,265 --> 00:13:23,069 One so small, it's easily overlooked, 220 00:13:23,069 --> 00:13:25,638 buried beneath the feet of visitors. 221 00:13:25,638 --> 00:13:27,340 Yet so large, 222 00:13:27,340 --> 00:13:29,676 it connects the trees of the forest, 223 00:13:29,676 --> 00:13:34,514 forming one of the most immense organisms on Earth, 224 00:13:34,514 --> 00:13:37,483 fungus. 225 00:13:37,483 --> 00:13:42,121 Fungus is the lifeblood of this rainforest ecosystem. 226 00:13:43,289 --> 00:13:46,325 It feeds nutrients to trees and animals 227 00:13:46,325 --> 00:13:48,127 through a living network 228 00:13:48,127 --> 00:13:52,198 that exists just below the mossy forest floor. 229 00:13:54,100 --> 00:13:56,803 You're on a living mat 230 00:13:56,803 --> 00:14:01,174 that connects one tree species to another tree species. 231 00:14:01,174 --> 00:14:05,745 Each tree is connected to others by fungal roots called mycelium. 232 00:14:08,181 --> 00:14:12,485 These strands of living tissue carry nitrogen and phosphorous, 233 00:14:12,485 --> 00:14:15,088 nutrients that help plants grow. 234 00:14:18,091 --> 00:14:20,126 The connections are so strong 235 00:14:20,126 --> 00:14:23,329 that cutting down a tree in one end of the forest 236 00:14:23,329 --> 00:14:26,165 can impact a tree on the opposite end. 237 00:14:28,101 --> 00:14:30,470 This fungal network has been called 238 00:14:30,470 --> 00:14:33,139 "Earth's natural internet" 239 00:14:33,139 --> 00:14:35,174 and can serve as a warning system 240 00:14:35,174 --> 00:14:37,643 for impending disease. 241 00:14:42,448 --> 00:14:45,485 Trees pick up on chemical signals of distress 242 00:14:45,485 --> 00:14:49,589 from their neighbors that travel through the network. 243 00:14:49,589 --> 00:14:53,526 All of these creatures, these tree creatures, 244 00:14:53,526 --> 00:14:56,662 these Ents, as in Lord of the Rings , 245 00:14:56,662 --> 00:15:00,466 truly are connected by a real physical 246 00:15:00,466 --> 00:15:02,268 and biological connection. 247 00:15:03,536 --> 00:15:06,539 Like the constant moisture of the rainforest, 248 00:15:06,539 --> 00:15:11,043 this fungal network is key to the survival of old growth. 249 00:15:12,445 --> 00:15:16,415 It provides 1,000-year-old trees with the nutrients they need 250 00:15:16,415 --> 00:15:19,252 to keep growing. 251 00:15:19,252 --> 00:15:21,687 Although science does not yet fully understand 252 00:15:21,687 --> 00:15:24,190 the complexity of these networks, 253 00:15:24,190 --> 00:15:26,292 it's clear that this unique habitat 254 00:15:26,292 --> 00:15:29,562 could not exist without them. 255 00:15:29,562 --> 00:15:31,264 When you go out into the forest, 256 00:15:31,264 --> 00:15:33,399 you're walking on life. 257 00:15:33,399 --> 00:15:36,269 Life connecting with other creatures. 258 00:15:36,269 --> 00:15:39,138 It's not some spiritual thing, it's a real thing. 259 00:15:39,138 --> 00:15:42,341 Yet behind it is this spirit of life, 260 00:15:42,341 --> 00:15:44,443 the spirit of evolution, 261 00:15:44,443 --> 00:15:46,579 that's why this is one of the most remarkable places 262 00:15:46,579 --> 00:15:49,081 on Earth. 263 00:15:49,081 --> 00:15:52,084 This remarkable place is also home 264 00:15:52,084 --> 00:15:56,622 to a diversity of wildlife, nourished by the lush forests 265 00:15:56,622 --> 00:15:59,325 and nutrient-rich inter-tidal zones. 266 00:16:02,261 --> 00:16:05,631 Here, a black bear goes in search of breakfast. 267 00:16:07,567 --> 00:16:11,504 Hungry predators like him take advantage of low tides 268 00:16:11,504 --> 00:16:15,474 that expose small prey in the early morning 269 00:16:15,474 --> 00:16:18,744 and turn shorelines into a buffet of mollusks 270 00:16:18,744 --> 00:16:20,680 and crustaceans. 271 00:16:23,216 --> 00:16:27,987 It's 8:00 a.m., low tide and the best time to find food. 272 00:16:29,722 --> 00:16:32,258 But it's a race against the clock, 273 00:16:32,258 --> 00:16:35,127 every minute counts. 274 00:16:35,127 --> 00:16:39,298 In just a few hours, the high tide will wash back in, 275 00:16:39,298 --> 00:16:43,269 hiding prey under more than 9 feet of water. 276 00:16:43,269 --> 00:16:44,704 But for now, 277 00:16:44,704 --> 00:16:48,541 clams, oysters, and crabs are ripe for the picking. 278 00:16:50,409 --> 00:16:52,612 The black bear is the smallest bear 279 00:16:52,612 --> 00:16:55,815 of the three species in North America. 280 00:16:55,815 --> 00:16:59,785 But this is no average black bear. 281 00:16:59,785 --> 00:17:03,356 This is a Vancouver Island black bear, 282 00:17:03,356 --> 00:17:07,326 an endemic subspecies of the common black bear. 283 00:17:07,326 --> 00:17:11,697 Here, the bears run larger than their mainland cousins. 284 00:17:11,697 --> 00:17:15,368 Females weigh an average of 400 pounds, 285 00:17:15,368 --> 00:17:19,705 while males can tip the scales at more than 600 pounds, 286 00:17:19,705 --> 00:17:23,809 the weight of a large touring motorcycle. 287 00:17:23,809 --> 00:17:26,746 Green shore crabs scuttle off, 288 00:17:26,746 --> 00:17:29,749 wary of the bears that feed on this bank. 289 00:17:32,218 --> 00:17:35,588 They're common on the shores of Vancouver Island 290 00:17:35,588 --> 00:17:37,623 and make a tasty snack. 291 00:17:42,228 --> 00:17:45,164 The breakfast buffet of the inter-tidal zone 292 00:17:45,164 --> 00:17:48,567 feeds more than the local bear population. 293 00:17:48,567 --> 00:17:53,139 (Seagulls screeching) 294 00:17:53,139 --> 00:17:55,708 Crows and gulls also take advantage 295 00:17:55,708 --> 00:18:00,613 of the exposed shoreline, pecking for small prey 296 00:18:00,613 --> 00:18:04,283 and scavenging the remains left by larger animals. 297 00:18:06,218 --> 00:18:09,322 These opportunistic hunters find plenty of food 298 00:18:09,322 --> 00:18:13,326 on the nutrient-rich beaches. 299 00:18:13,326 --> 00:18:15,695 Larger birds make this coastline home 300 00:18:15,695 --> 00:18:17,263 as well. 301 00:18:17,263 --> 00:18:21,133 A bald eagle rests in a cedar tree, 302 00:18:21,133 --> 00:18:25,504 its keen eyes able to spot small prey 100 feet below. 303 00:18:27,073 --> 00:18:31,077 Eagles find easy meals on these shores during low-tide. 304 00:18:35,748 --> 00:18:39,352 Today, the shores begin to clear out around noon. 305 00:18:41,153 --> 00:18:45,491 The feast dies down as the high tides creep back in. 306 00:18:48,361 --> 00:18:52,398 But another kind of frenzy is just getting started. 307 00:18:52,398 --> 00:18:58,504 (♪♪♪) 308 00:18:58,504 --> 00:19:01,741 Powerful waves crash along the shores, 309 00:19:01,741 --> 00:19:06,212 creating ideal conditions for the best surfing in Canada. 310 00:19:08,180 --> 00:19:11,617 With more than 20 miles of surf-able beach break, 311 00:19:11,617 --> 00:19:14,120 Tofino is known worldwide 312 00:19:14,120 --> 00:19:17,156 as a top spot to catch a wave. 313 00:19:17,156 --> 00:19:19,692 Surfers flock here year-round. 314 00:19:19,692 --> 00:19:21,360 I really like surfing early in the morning, 315 00:19:21,360 --> 00:19:24,130 before the wind picks up and before people wake up. 316 00:19:24,130 --> 00:19:26,766 You can, you know, find waves where it'll just be you 317 00:19:26,766 --> 00:19:29,135 and your friends surfing for 3 or 4 days 318 00:19:29,135 --> 00:19:31,804 if you make the effort to maybe go on a plane ride 319 00:19:31,804 --> 00:19:34,540 or a boat ride or really hike down 320 00:19:34,540 --> 00:19:36,175 in through some forests. 321 00:19:36,175 --> 00:19:37,476 Or if you just wanna be lazy and surf, 322 00:19:37,476 --> 00:19:39,512 the beaches are right on your doorstep. 323 00:19:39,512 --> 00:19:42,048 Uh, there's probably about five or six beaches 324 00:19:42,048 --> 00:19:43,649 that you can surf here. 325 00:19:46,519 --> 00:19:51,090 Water temperatures remain cool but consistent at about 50°. 326 00:19:53,092 --> 00:19:57,430 Surfing here is a year-round sport. 327 00:19:57,430 --> 00:19:59,799 The largest waves come in winter, 328 00:19:59,799 --> 00:20:04,203 when the surf rises with powerful swells. 329 00:20:04,203 --> 00:20:08,574 But each surfer's ideal wave is different. 330 00:20:08,574 --> 00:20:10,476 My favorite time of year to surf is the fall. 331 00:20:10,476 --> 00:20:12,578 When the water is still kind of warm 332 00:20:12,578 --> 00:20:14,146 from the summer, 333 00:20:14,146 --> 00:20:16,382 but the waves start to get bigger, 334 00:20:16,382 --> 00:20:19,552 and we start to get some bigger swells coming in. 335 00:20:19,552 --> 00:20:23,222 Chesterman Beach, with its dramatic V-shape, 336 00:20:23,222 --> 00:20:25,224 is a surfer's playground. 337 00:20:27,126 --> 00:20:30,229 Dissected at its point by Frank Island, 338 00:20:30,229 --> 00:20:33,099 the beach is split perfectly in two. 339 00:20:34,366 --> 00:20:36,702 South Chesterman packs a punch 340 00:20:36,702 --> 00:20:39,572 with southern swells and northwest winds. 341 00:20:41,340 --> 00:20:44,577 North Chesterman provides the opposite experience, 342 00:20:44,577 --> 00:20:48,647 with climbing north-west swells and south-easterly winds. 343 00:20:50,449 --> 00:20:55,421 Surfers don wetsuits to ward off chilly water temperatures. 344 00:20:55,421 --> 00:20:59,525 And there are other hazards for surfers in Tofino. 345 00:20:59,525 --> 00:21:01,760 In addition to bears on the beach, 346 00:21:01,760 --> 00:21:05,364 there are orcas in these waters. 347 00:21:05,364 --> 00:21:08,067 Surfers have been forced out of the sea 348 00:21:08,067 --> 00:21:11,070 by circling pods of killer whales, 349 00:21:11,070 --> 00:21:13,506 though there's never been an attack. 350 00:21:13,506 --> 00:21:16,475 For nature lovers and adventure seekers, 351 00:21:16,475 --> 00:21:20,346 there is more to Tofino than rolling waves. 352 00:21:20,346 --> 00:21:24,750 If I'm not surfing, I'm hiking and not just hiking the beaches. 353 00:21:24,750 --> 00:21:27,086 Like within an hour's drive from here, 354 00:21:27,086 --> 00:21:28,821 you can hike up a beautiful mountain 355 00:21:28,821 --> 00:21:31,457 like up a waterfall and swim in a lake, 356 00:21:31,457 --> 00:21:32,758 you know, up the top. 357 00:21:32,758 --> 00:21:34,660 It's just everything you'd want 358 00:21:34,660 --> 00:21:37,496 if you're an adventurous, fun-loving person. 359 00:21:42,668 --> 00:21:46,205 But other places along the same stretch of shoreline 360 00:21:46,205 --> 00:21:48,741 are not so hospitable. 361 00:21:48,741 --> 00:21:52,144 The Pacific coastal region between Northern Oregon 362 00:21:52,144 --> 00:21:54,380 and the top of Vancouver Island 363 00:21:54,380 --> 00:21:59,118 is one of North America's most treacherous coastlines. 364 00:21:59,118 --> 00:22:03,422 Unpredictable weather, jagged shores, and intense fog 365 00:22:03,422 --> 00:22:05,791 have sunk thousands of ships, 366 00:22:05,791 --> 00:22:08,761 earning this stretch of coastline the nickname, 367 00:22:08,761 --> 00:22:11,063 "The Graveyard of the Pacific". 368 00:22:13,666 --> 00:22:16,302 The historic Amphitrite Lighthouse 369 00:22:16,302 --> 00:22:17,836 has helped sailors navigate 370 00:22:17,836 --> 00:22:20,206 the island's treacherous coastlines 371 00:22:20,206 --> 00:22:23,175 for more than 100 years. 372 00:22:23,175 --> 00:22:26,378 The lighthouse was built in 1906 373 00:22:26,378 --> 00:22:29,481 after the tragic sinking of the Pass of Melfort 374 00:22:29,481 --> 00:22:31,517 in the winter of 1905. 375 00:22:33,085 --> 00:22:35,688 The four-masted, steel-hulled ship 376 00:22:35,688 --> 00:22:39,625 was on its way to Seattle on a routine timber run 377 00:22:39,625 --> 00:22:43,829 until seasonal storms whipped up deadly waves, 378 00:22:43,829 --> 00:22:47,633 leaving the vessel in ruin just 160 feet 379 00:22:47,633 --> 00:22:51,470 off the shore of Amphitrite Point. 380 00:22:51,470 --> 00:22:54,740 The tragedy left 36 people dead. 381 00:22:56,609 --> 00:23:00,746 Since then, the lighthouse has guided sailors to safety 382 00:23:00,746 --> 00:23:04,149 through thick fog along rocky coasts. 383 00:23:04,149 --> 00:23:08,287 (Waves splashing in distance) 384 00:23:12,124 --> 00:23:15,094 The most ancient layers of Vancouver Island 385 00:23:15,094 --> 00:23:18,163 are comprised of marine volcanic rock 386 00:23:18,163 --> 00:23:21,300 formed by undersea lava deposits 387 00:23:21,300 --> 00:23:23,636 more than 300 million years ago. 388 00:23:25,137 --> 00:23:27,606 Over millennia, the calcium shells 389 00:23:27,606 --> 00:23:31,277 of countless marine animals added to the rock 390 00:23:31,277 --> 00:23:34,613 to create limestone. 391 00:23:34,613 --> 00:23:37,816 These ancient rocks formed long colonnades 392 00:23:37,816 --> 00:23:40,786 that jut out into the Pacific Ocean, 393 00:23:40,786 --> 00:23:44,723 posing hazards for passing ships. 394 00:23:44,723 --> 00:23:47,760 But even more dangerous than the jagged rock 395 00:23:47,760 --> 00:23:51,730 is the unrelenting fog. 396 00:23:51,730 --> 00:23:54,833 August on the west coast of Vancouver Island 397 00:23:54,833 --> 00:23:58,804 is nicknamed "Fogust". 398 00:23:58,804 --> 00:24:02,708 Two types of fog cloak the west coast, 399 00:24:02,708 --> 00:24:06,078 radiation and advection. 400 00:24:06,078 --> 00:24:09,348 Radiation fog is common during late summer 401 00:24:09,348 --> 00:24:11,517 and is created when surface temperatures 402 00:24:11,517 --> 00:24:14,320 cool rapidly at night. 403 00:24:14,320 --> 00:24:17,623 Ground water evaporates into warmer air, 404 00:24:17,623 --> 00:24:20,626 condensing as a thin layer of surface cloud 405 00:24:20,626 --> 00:24:23,262 close to ground. 406 00:24:23,262 --> 00:24:27,533 Daytime rising temperatures typically burn off radiation fog 407 00:24:27,533 --> 00:24:30,235 by mid-afternoon. 408 00:24:30,235 --> 00:24:34,106 But advection fog can last for several days 409 00:24:34,106 --> 00:24:37,643 when warm, moist air blows across cooler land 410 00:24:37,643 --> 00:24:40,312 or water. 411 00:24:40,312 --> 00:24:42,348 The fog is an essential part 412 00:24:42,348 --> 00:24:46,485 of the Pacific Coast's rainforest ecosystem. 413 00:24:46,485 --> 00:24:48,587 During the dry summer, 414 00:24:48,587 --> 00:24:53,258 it supplies the forests with much-needed moisture. 415 00:24:53,258 --> 00:24:56,395 Fog drip accounts for more than 35% 416 00:24:56,395 --> 00:24:59,198 of the rainforest's annual precipitation. 417 00:25:00,666 --> 00:25:03,068 Without this thick haze, 418 00:25:03,068 --> 00:25:07,573 Canada's only rainforest could not survive. 419 00:25:07,573 --> 00:25:10,142 Life on this remarkable island 420 00:25:10,142 --> 00:25:13,479 depends on the delicate balance of its ecosystems. 421 00:25:15,080 --> 00:25:17,816 Like waves of the Pacific shore, 422 00:25:17,816 --> 00:25:22,654 life here ebbs and flows in a natural rhythm. 423 00:25:22,654 --> 00:25:24,390 To the keen observer, 424 00:25:24,390 --> 00:25:26,558 this lush paradise 425 00:25:26,558 --> 00:25:30,262 can provide everything needed for survival. 426 00:25:30,262 --> 00:25:32,731 A really big compliment that you can get in our culture 427 00:25:32,731 --> 00:25:34,800 is that you have been very observant. 428 00:25:34,800 --> 00:25:39,204 So there was a lot of time that people just spent in nature 429 00:25:39,204 --> 00:25:42,241 observing various things. 430 00:25:42,241 --> 00:25:46,345 What the birds are saying, what the tide is doing, 431 00:25:46,345 --> 00:25:48,414 do you hear a rumble along the ocean 432 00:25:48,414 --> 00:25:50,582 that'll help you know what's going on out there 433 00:25:50,582 --> 00:25:53,352 in terms of swell. 434 00:25:53,352 --> 00:25:55,120 What the clouds are doing, 435 00:25:55,120 --> 00:25:56,622 which mountain tops they're sitting on top off. 436 00:25:56,622 --> 00:25:58,190 All these things, 437 00:25:58,190 --> 00:26:02,094 and you can learn so much just from that observance. 438 00:26:02,094 --> 00:26:06,398 For generations, First Nations have lived off the land, 439 00:26:06,398 --> 00:26:10,536 looking to nature to supply shelter and food. 440 00:26:10,536 --> 00:26:14,173 In the past, we managed these root vegetable gardens 441 00:26:14,173 --> 00:26:16,074 that were our main starches 442 00:26:16,074 --> 00:26:19,378 and those were very carefully gardened 443 00:26:19,378 --> 00:26:23,348 and managed by specific families within the tribe. 444 00:26:23,348 --> 00:26:26,652 Some First Nations communities still rely on the shores 445 00:26:26,652 --> 00:26:28,754 of the island for food. 446 00:26:28,754 --> 00:26:32,090 Living off the land demands an expert level 447 00:26:32,090 --> 00:26:33,492 of observance. 448 00:26:33,492 --> 00:26:36,195 Foragers need to be aware of the balance 449 00:26:36,195 --> 00:26:38,764 of supply and demand. 450 00:26:38,764 --> 00:26:41,533 Through the ages, the lives of First Nations 451 00:26:41,533 --> 00:26:44,636 were intertwined with the natural world. 452 00:26:44,636 --> 00:26:47,105 Aboriginal people considered the growth 453 00:26:47,105 --> 00:26:49,775 and reproduction cycles of plants and animals 454 00:26:49,775 --> 00:26:51,643 before harvesting 455 00:26:51,643 --> 00:26:55,547 to sustain the food supply for generations to come. 456 00:26:55,547 --> 00:27:00,219 It's important to learn about whatever that resource is, 457 00:27:00,219 --> 00:27:03,789 not just as a human use thing, but its own lifecycle 458 00:27:03,789 --> 00:27:06,124 and just how, 459 00:27:06,124 --> 00:27:09,361 under what circumstances does it thrive, or not? 460 00:27:09,361 --> 00:27:12,798 And if you do have access to indigenous knowledge 461 00:27:12,798 --> 00:27:16,301 and people that are willing to share, to respectfully ask, 462 00:27:16,301 --> 00:27:19,271 that's a good start. 463 00:27:19,271 --> 00:27:20,639 From up high, 464 00:27:20,639 --> 00:27:23,475 the lush rainforests of Vancouver Island 465 00:27:23,475 --> 00:27:25,777 burst with life. 466 00:27:25,777 --> 00:27:30,582 Dense greenery is a vivid sign of a healthy forest. 467 00:27:30,582 --> 00:27:33,652 These aerial views also provide clues 468 00:27:33,652 --> 00:27:37,322 about the health of a different species, 469 00:27:37,322 --> 00:27:39,291 salmon. 470 00:27:39,291 --> 00:27:41,360 The carcasses of salmon 471 00:27:41,360 --> 00:27:45,264 dragged from spawning streams hundreds of feet inland 472 00:27:45,264 --> 00:27:49,501 provide a rich source of nitrogen to nearby forests. 473 00:27:49,501 --> 00:27:53,205 Studies show the trees here obtain up to 50% 474 00:27:53,205 --> 00:27:56,475 of their nitrogen from the decaying fish. 475 00:27:56,475 --> 00:27:59,444 Forests made healthy by dead salmon 476 00:27:59,444 --> 00:28:02,080 attract more birds and insects, 477 00:28:02,080 --> 00:28:04,249 increasing the overall well-being 478 00:28:04,249 --> 00:28:06,118 of the ecosystem. 479 00:28:06,118 --> 00:28:09,321 As a result, lush forests like this 480 00:28:09,321 --> 00:28:12,424 usually indicate a healthy salmon run. 481 00:28:12,424 --> 00:28:15,761 (Water splashing) 482 00:28:15,761 --> 00:28:19,798 There are four kinds of salmon on Vancouver Island. 483 00:28:19,798 --> 00:28:22,467 Chinook salmon is the largest. 484 00:28:22,467 --> 00:28:25,203 It can live for up to 9 years 485 00:28:25,203 --> 00:28:29,041 and reach weights of more than 130 pounds, 486 00:28:29,041 --> 00:28:33,312 making it the largest salmon species on Earth. 487 00:28:33,312 --> 00:28:36,381 These muscular fish spawn in the majority 488 00:28:36,381 --> 00:28:39,785 of Vancouver Island's streams and rivers. 489 00:28:39,785 --> 00:28:43,822 Every fall, salmon return to the place they were born 490 00:28:43,822 --> 00:28:48,327 to lay their eggs and restart the cycle of life. 491 00:28:48,327 --> 00:28:49,761 It's an epic journey 492 00:28:49,761 --> 00:28:52,331 that can cover thousands of miles 493 00:28:52,331 --> 00:28:56,101 from the wide-open Pacific Ocean to natal streams 494 00:28:56,101 --> 00:28:59,071 that can reach far inland. 495 00:28:59,071 --> 00:29:01,506 Guided by the Earth's magnetic fields 496 00:29:01,506 --> 00:29:03,542 and their own sense of smell, 497 00:29:03,542 --> 00:29:05,777 salmon find the river of their birth, 498 00:29:05,777 --> 00:29:08,246 then brave waterfalls and rapids 499 00:29:08,246 --> 00:29:12,417 to make it to their spawning grounds far upstream. 500 00:29:12,417 --> 00:29:15,253 Once they arrive at their destination, 501 00:29:15,253 --> 00:29:19,091 females can lay between 2,000 to 5,000 eggs 502 00:29:19,091 --> 00:29:23,662 before they become senescent, meaning they've spawned out. 503 00:29:23,662 --> 00:29:26,498 The high number of eggs is vital to the survival 504 00:29:26,498 --> 00:29:28,233 of the species. 505 00:29:28,233 --> 00:29:31,637 The ova are vulnerable to predators, pollution, 506 00:29:31,637 --> 00:29:34,072 flooding, and disease 507 00:29:34,072 --> 00:29:37,309 Less than 10% will make it to adulthood 508 00:29:37,309 --> 00:29:40,712 and just 2% will survive the incredible journey 509 00:29:40,712 --> 00:29:43,682 back to their birthplace to spawn 510 00:29:43,682 --> 00:29:47,686 and continue the cycle of life. 511 00:29:47,686 --> 00:29:50,555 South of Tofino is the crown jewel 512 00:29:50,555 --> 00:29:54,292 of Vancouver Island's west coast. 513 00:29:54,292 --> 00:29:57,496 Pacific Rim National Park, 514 00:29:57,496 --> 00:30:01,333 home to rainforests filled with ancient cedars 515 00:30:01,333 --> 00:30:03,802 and diverse wildlife. 516 00:30:03,802 --> 00:30:05,804 It's also home to one of the island's 517 00:30:05,804 --> 00:30:09,775 unexpected and rarest ecosystems, 518 00:30:09,775 --> 00:30:13,245 sand dunes. 519 00:30:13,245 --> 00:30:15,781 In Western Canada, sand dunes and sandy beaches 520 00:30:15,781 --> 00:30:18,717 comprise less than 10% of our shoreline. 521 00:30:18,717 --> 00:30:21,186 That makes them rare, but what makes them special 522 00:30:21,186 --> 00:30:24,222 is that these are selected spots for a whole host 523 00:30:24,222 --> 00:30:25,824 of different species that only exist 524 00:30:25,824 --> 00:30:28,560 in sandy substrate. 525 00:30:28,560 --> 00:30:32,497 Dunes are created in equal parts by wind and water. 526 00:30:33,765 --> 00:30:38,537 Over time, wind pushes waves and sand ashore, 527 00:30:38,537 --> 00:30:43,175 piling grains of sand into wind deposits. 528 00:30:43,175 --> 00:30:46,712 These dunes are the largest in British Columbia 529 00:30:46,712 --> 00:30:49,247 and are an important transitional zone 530 00:30:49,247 --> 00:30:52,250 between beach and forest. 531 00:30:52,250 --> 00:30:55,420 These are very rare, very selected habitats 532 00:30:55,420 --> 00:30:57,322 for a whole host of different species 533 00:30:57,322 --> 00:30:59,891 and communities that only exist in select spots 534 00:30:59,891 --> 00:31:02,728 like here in Tofino, Ucluelet. 535 00:31:02,728 --> 00:31:05,397 Migratory birds, bears, 536 00:31:05,397 --> 00:31:07,699 and a variety of plants and insects 537 00:31:07,699 --> 00:31:10,602 call the dunes home. 538 00:31:10,602 --> 00:31:14,773 But an intruder has put the dunes at risk. 539 00:31:14,773 --> 00:31:18,110 Dune systems of this size are really rare. 540 00:31:18,110 --> 00:31:20,312 What we see in most coastal dune systems 541 00:31:20,312 --> 00:31:21,646 in the northern hemisphere is that 542 00:31:21,646 --> 00:31:24,483 they are slowly shrinking or stabilizing 543 00:31:24,483 --> 00:31:27,185 by vegetation moving in on their margins. 544 00:31:27,185 --> 00:31:30,722 We see that on the fore-dune here, 545 00:31:30,722 --> 00:31:34,092 in response to an introduced or invasive species, 546 00:31:34,092 --> 00:31:38,463 that's known as an American or European beach-grass. 547 00:31:38,463 --> 00:31:40,365 Beach-grass was originally brought 548 00:31:40,365 --> 00:31:42,267 to Vancouver Island 549 00:31:42,267 --> 00:31:46,238 to stabilize coastal areas at risk of erosion. 550 00:31:46,238 --> 00:31:49,407 But over time, this invasive species 551 00:31:49,407 --> 00:31:52,844 began to block the natural transfer of sand 552 00:31:52,844 --> 00:31:55,480 between dunes. 553 00:31:55,480 --> 00:32:00,252 Without a natural flow of sand, dunes can shrink over time 554 00:32:00,252 --> 00:32:03,789 endangering the plants, insects and animals 555 00:32:03,789 --> 00:32:08,193 that make their home in the sand. 556 00:32:08,193 --> 00:32:11,530 To help fight invasive European beach-grass, 557 00:32:11,530 --> 00:32:15,367 the park introduced a restoration program. 558 00:32:16,802 --> 00:32:20,772 Local community members remove the beach grass by hand, 559 00:32:20,772 --> 00:32:24,543 replacing it with the endangered plants. 560 00:32:24,543 --> 00:32:27,646 These kids here are pulling invasive dune grass 561 00:32:27,646 --> 00:32:29,748 for the dune restoration project. 562 00:32:29,748 --> 00:32:32,250 It's a very important ecosystem here 563 00:32:32,250 --> 00:32:35,654 and these kids are helping to restore it. 564 00:32:35,654 --> 00:32:39,424 The goal is to restore the way wind naturally blows 565 00:32:39,424 --> 00:32:42,561 the sediment and shifts the dunes. 566 00:32:42,561 --> 00:32:45,764 By freeing up sand to move with the wind, 567 00:32:45,764 --> 00:32:49,467 researchers hope to maintain the natural microhabitats 568 00:32:49,467 --> 00:32:51,436 of the dunes. 569 00:32:51,436 --> 00:32:53,738 All of these plants that you see around here, 570 00:32:53,738 --> 00:32:56,141 they're disturbance-loving plants. 571 00:32:56,141 --> 00:32:58,443 They need that disturbance, that abrasion by sand, 572 00:32:58,443 --> 00:33:01,646 that burial, that erosion to grow and live. 573 00:33:01,646 --> 00:33:04,249 An invasive species like the beach-grass 574 00:33:04,249 --> 00:33:07,385 will move in, choke out, and stabilize 575 00:33:07,385 --> 00:33:10,055 or cover the surface. 576 00:33:10,055 --> 00:33:13,058 The species that we're really focused on 577 00:33:13,058 --> 00:33:16,528 and for this dune restoration project 578 00:33:16,528 --> 00:33:19,764 are three species that are considered endangered 579 00:33:19,764 --> 00:33:21,199 in Canada 580 00:33:21,199 --> 00:33:24,069 and one of those is pink sand verbena. 581 00:33:24,069 --> 00:33:26,538 By replacing the invasive beach-grass 582 00:33:26,538 --> 00:33:28,773 with pink sand verbena, 583 00:33:28,773 --> 00:33:33,111 researchers will restore the natural rhythm of the dunes. 584 00:33:33,111 --> 00:33:35,313 We've removed those grasses, 585 00:33:35,313 --> 00:33:37,182 we've returned these environments 586 00:33:37,182 --> 00:33:40,318 to a more natural regime, 587 00:33:40,318 --> 00:33:43,855 and we have seen the increase 588 00:33:43,855 --> 00:33:46,258 in a lot of those rare species 589 00:33:46,258 --> 00:33:50,295 that we were trying to enhance. 590 00:33:50,295 --> 00:33:52,697 We're making great strides in giving them a home. 591 00:33:56,334 --> 00:33:58,103 On Vancouver Island, 592 00:33:58,103 --> 00:34:00,538 another ecosystem straddles the line 593 00:34:00,538 --> 00:34:04,109 between Earth and water. 594 00:34:04,109 --> 00:34:08,113 But this place is not by the ocean. 595 00:34:08,113 --> 00:34:11,216 It's thousands of feet above sea level. 596 00:34:13,518 --> 00:34:16,755 A hidden paradise at the top of a mountain. 597 00:34:19,524 --> 00:34:22,560 These towering peaks split Vancouver Island 598 00:34:22,560 --> 00:34:25,297 into east and west. 599 00:34:25,297 --> 00:34:27,532 Their steep slopes retain moisture 600 00:34:27,532 --> 00:34:29,501 along the Pacific Coast 601 00:34:29,501 --> 00:34:33,238 and help create lush rainforests. 602 00:34:33,238 --> 00:34:36,641 But historically, these thirsty forests 603 00:34:36,641 --> 00:34:41,146 were quenched by another source, glaciers. 604 00:34:43,581 --> 00:34:45,450 In the 1970s, 605 00:34:45,450 --> 00:34:49,788 Vancouver Island was home to more than 170 glaciers. 606 00:34:51,423 --> 00:34:54,626 Ice capped the peaks of many mountains on the island. 607 00:34:56,594 --> 00:34:58,296 In the heat of the summer, 608 00:34:58,296 --> 00:35:01,299 these slow-moving ribbons of ice melt 609 00:35:01,299 --> 00:35:04,369 and saturate the dry forests below. 610 00:35:07,372 --> 00:35:11,977 In the spring, melted glaciers become rushing waterfalls. 611 00:35:13,411 --> 00:35:15,113 In the Nahmint Valley, 612 00:35:15,113 --> 00:35:17,349 in the centre of Vancouver Island, 613 00:35:17,349 --> 00:35:19,751 spring waterfalls flow freely. 614 00:35:21,619 --> 00:35:25,223 Locals refer to this area as "Waterfall Heaven". 615 00:35:27,258 --> 00:35:31,529 Here, glacial runoff creates towering waterfalls. 616 00:35:33,198 --> 00:35:35,600 One of the tallest, Virgin Falls, 617 00:35:35,600 --> 00:35:39,137 cascades more than 170 feet. 618 00:35:41,806 --> 00:35:44,642 Rising global temperatures have reduced 619 00:35:44,642 --> 00:35:47,579 the number of glaciers on Vancouver Island 620 00:35:47,579 --> 00:35:50,281 to just five. 621 00:35:50,281 --> 00:35:53,084 Fewer glaciers means less water to feed 622 00:35:53,084 --> 00:35:55,153 the hundreds of waterfalls 623 00:35:55,153 --> 00:35:58,456 that flow down from the mountains. 624 00:35:58,456 --> 00:36:00,225 Some scientists predict 625 00:36:00,225 --> 00:36:02,794 that all of Vancouver Island's glaciers 626 00:36:02,794 --> 00:36:05,630 could be gone within 25 years. 627 00:36:05,630 --> 00:36:12,737 (♪♪♪) 628 00:36:12,737 --> 00:36:17,008 In some cases, melted glaciers feed mountain lakes. 629 00:36:20,812 --> 00:36:24,416 Water from these lakes feeds the surrounding forest 630 00:36:24,416 --> 00:36:27,085 to create a vibrant ecosystem 631 00:36:27,085 --> 00:36:29,721 hundreds of feet above sea level. 632 00:36:33,725 --> 00:36:36,461 But as the climate continues to warm, 633 00:36:36,461 --> 00:36:40,598 these high alpine regions are shrinking. 634 00:36:40,598 --> 00:36:44,569 Within the next century, they may disappear completely. 635 00:36:48,239 --> 00:36:51,509 These secluded mountain tops of Vancouver Island 636 00:36:51,509 --> 00:36:54,612 provide a haven for fragile ecosystems. 637 00:36:57,282 --> 00:37:01,553 Tucked away among the mountains is Henderson Lake. 638 00:37:06,157 --> 00:37:08,226 This secluded body of water 639 00:37:08,226 --> 00:37:12,163 sits on Uchucklesaht First Nations land, 640 00:37:12,163 --> 00:37:14,432 a region that holds special meaning 641 00:37:14,432 --> 00:37:16,367 to Pacific First Nations. 642 00:37:19,304 --> 00:37:21,106 For thousands of years, 643 00:37:21,106 --> 00:37:23,441 Henderson Lake teemed with salmon. 644 00:37:25,376 --> 00:37:28,680 Salmon runs here were among the most spectacular 645 00:37:28,680 --> 00:37:30,615 in the world. 646 00:37:30,615 --> 00:37:34,519 There was enough fish to feed entire communities. 647 00:37:34,519 --> 00:37:37,755 But disease brought by European settlers 648 00:37:37,755 --> 00:37:41,126 took its toll on tradition. 649 00:37:41,126 --> 00:37:42,827 We've been here for thousands of years 650 00:37:42,827 --> 00:37:44,262 and at one time 651 00:37:44,262 --> 00:37:48,633 we were approximately 8,000 warriors strong 652 00:37:50,168 --> 00:37:52,170 a few hundred years ago. 653 00:37:52,170 --> 00:37:56,574 And through the epidemics 654 00:37:56,574 --> 00:37:58,209 and smallpox 655 00:37:58,209 --> 00:38:02,180 and those kind of events, 656 00:38:02,180 --> 00:38:05,216 we were basically diminished 657 00:38:05,216 --> 00:38:08,219 to very small numbers, 658 00:38:08,219 --> 00:38:10,221 less than a hundred. 659 00:38:10,221 --> 00:38:11,623 And now we are growing, 660 00:38:11,623 --> 00:38:15,059 we are closed to 300 members at this point. 661 00:38:19,497 --> 00:38:23,601 Encircling Henderson Lake are the five sacred mountains 662 00:38:23,601 --> 00:38:26,171 that have guarded the spiritual secrets 663 00:38:26,171 --> 00:38:29,340 of Pacific First Nations for millennia. 664 00:38:33,411 --> 00:38:36,147 This is the Thunderbird's Nest, 665 00:38:36,147 --> 00:38:38,683 home of the mythical thunderbird. 666 00:38:38,683 --> 00:38:43,254 A supernatural creature able to bring rain and lightning 667 00:38:43,254 --> 00:38:46,791 to Vancouver Island's coastal rainforest. 668 00:38:46,791 --> 00:38:50,662 There's just a handful, you can count on one hand, 669 00:38:50,662 --> 00:38:55,166 of areas that you would call the Thunderbird's Nest. 670 00:38:55,166 --> 00:38:58,403 And in our language it's called the "T'iitsk'in Pawaats". 671 00:38:58,403 --> 00:39:01,673 Every nation has stories about having thunderbirds, 672 00:39:01,673 --> 00:39:04,275 but not Thunderbird Nest. 673 00:39:04,275 --> 00:39:06,711 According to ancient mythology, 674 00:39:06,711 --> 00:39:10,682 the land was home to a family of thunderbirds. 675 00:39:10,682 --> 00:39:13,384 Five birds inhabited the tops of each 676 00:39:13,384 --> 00:39:17,155 of the five sacred mountains within the T'iitsk'in Paawats. 677 00:39:18,523 --> 00:39:22,594 Over time, the mythical birds began to leave the nest. 678 00:39:24,162 --> 00:39:26,731 Some were traded away to neighboring tribes 679 00:39:26,731 --> 00:39:29,767 during times of wedding and war, 680 00:39:29,767 --> 00:39:33,671 creating sacred bonds that tied communities together. 681 00:39:37,208 --> 00:39:40,278 The Thunderbird's Nest holds precious significance 682 00:39:40,278 --> 00:39:42,580 to Pacific First Nations 683 00:39:42,580 --> 00:39:46,217 and has never before been filmed. 684 00:39:46,217 --> 00:39:49,520 The land remained a well-guarded secret 685 00:39:49,520 --> 00:39:53,057 until loggers attempted to clear-cut the area 686 00:39:53,057 --> 00:39:55,260 and members of the Uchucklesaht Tribe 687 00:39:55,260 --> 00:39:58,129 took action to save it. 688 00:39:58,129 --> 00:40:00,698 Not very many outside people knew about the story 689 00:40:00,698 --> 00:40:04,669 of the Thunderbird's Nest and our secret ceremonies 690 00:40:04,669 --> 00:40:08,239 and the activities we carry out in the nest. 691 00:40:08,239 --> 00:40:11,109 It came to light in the '90s. 692 00:40:11,109 --> 00:40:14,379 We were shocked and astonished to learn that 693 00:40:14,379 --> 00:40:16,447 the forestry company was logging out 694 00:40:16,447 --> 00:40:19,851 in the upper part of the province. 695 00:40:19,851 --> 00:40:23,454 So we immediately went and met with the forest companies 696 00:40:23,454 --> 00:40:25,823 and asked them to cease. 697 00:40:25,823 --> 00:40:28,526 And after much meeting, and discussions 698 00:40:28,526 --> 00:40:31,696 and educating them of our interest in the area, 699 00:40:31,696 --> 00:40:34,265 of the spiritualness and the sacredness of it, 700 00:40:34,265 --> 00:40:36,634 they agreed to stop harvesting. 701 00:40:40,738 --> 00:40:43,641 Logging this area would have been disastrous 702 00:40:43,641 --> 00:40:45,777 to the spiritual ancestry 703 00:40:45,777 --> 00:40:50,148 of more than 14 Pacific First Nation tribes. 704 00:40:50,148 --> 00:40:54,118 My mother, at that time, she was about 75 years old. 705 00:40:54,118 --> 00:40:56,321 And she said if they're not willing 706 00:40:56,321 --> 00:40:57,722 to protect the area 707 00:40:57,722 --> 00:40:59,791 or they're not prepared to stop logging-- 708 00:40:59,791 --> 00:41:01,192 When they were logging, 709 00:41:01,192 --> 00:41:04,629 she was gonna make her way up there 710 00:41:04,629 --> 00:41:07,765 and park herself in the middle of the road 711 00:41:07,765 --> 00:41:10,134 so nobody can haul any wood out of there. 712 00:41:10,134 --> 00:41:13,071 So that's how determined our people were 713 00:41:13,071 --> 00:41:15,540 to ensure that logging would not happen 714 00:41:15,540 --> 00:41:18,710 in that spiritual area. 715 00:41:18,710 --> 00:41:20,578 First Nations Tribal Councils 716 00:41:20,578 --> 00:41:24,082 now govern the area 717 00:41:24,082 --> 00:41:28,086 protecting more than 5,000 acres from the logging industry 718 00:41:28,086 --> 00:41:29,754 for future generations. 719 00:41:33,157 --> 00:41:36,194 Because of its special ties to the thunderbird, 720 00:41:36,194 --> 00:41:39,197 this land has been used by the Uchucklesaht people 721 00:41:39,197 --> 00:41:41,232 for sacred rituals 722 00:41:41,232 --> 00:41:45,403 since long before the appearance of Europeans. 723 00:41:45,403 --> 00:41:49,640 Each piece of the nest holds a specific sacred purpose. 724 00:41:51,175 --> 00:41:53,878 The lowest mountain has a number of sacred ponds 725 00:41:53,878 --> 00:41:55,646 and waterfalls 726 00:41:55,646 --> 00:41:59,450 that are traditionally used to cleanse a member of the tribe 727 00:41:59,450 --> 00:42:01,686 before a difficult journey. 728 00:42:01,686 --> 00:42:04,288 It's a place where our people 729 00:42:04,288 --> 00:42:07,592 went for ceremonies and celebrations 730 00:42:07,592 --> 00:42:10,828 and the ceremonies ranging 731 00:42:10,828 --> 00:42:14,265 from 1 day or 1/2 a day 732 00:42:14,265 --> 00:42:17,101 to maybe a week to a month or 8 months 733 00:42:17,101 --> 00:42:19,404 depending on what you were there 734 00:42:19,404 --> 00:42:21,005 to prepare yourself for. 735 00:42:23,708 --> 00:42:26,577 One of the most intense spiritual practices 736 00:42:26,577 --> 00:42:30,348 in the Thunderbird's Nest occurred prior to a whale hunt. 737 00:42:32,583 --> 00:42:35,820 Tribe members would camp alone among the mountains 738 00:42:35,820 --> 00:42:37,688 for up to 8 months, 739 00:42:37,688 --> 00:42:42,126 cleansing the body and mind in preparation for a hunt, 740 00:42:42,126 --> 00:42:45,563 that, if successful, could feed an entire family 741 00:42:45,563 --> 00:42:47,665 throughout the winter. 742 00:42:49,367 --> 00:42:52,670 People often have big reactions to the idea of whale hunting 743 00:42:52,670 --> 00:42:57,542 and like very kind of gut level. 744 00:42:57,542 --> 00:42:59,811 But I think there is a lack of understanding. 745 00:42:59,811 --> 00:43:03,815 There's intensive spiritual and physical preparation 746 00:43:03,815 --> 00:43:06,551 that takes place before going on a whale hunt. 747 00:43:06,551 --> 00:43:10,822 And there's so much respect for these big animals 748 00:43:10,822 --> 00:43:15,426 and one of the incredible things is that one of these animals 749 00:43:15,426 --> 00:43:19,063 can feed so many people and in former times, 750 00:43:19,063 --> 00:43:23,734 the oil, the blubber of them was, 751 00:43:23,734 --> 00:43:25,570 you know, that was so precious. 752 00:43:25,570 --> 00:43:29,373 Because there wasn't other forms of oil around here. 753 00:43:29,373 --> 00:43:32,310 Smaller events took place within the nest as well. 754 00:43:34,645 --> 00:43:37,448 Weddings commonly occurred on its shores. 755 00:43:39,484 --> 00:43:44,355 Coming-of-age ceremonies played out in its woods. 756 00:43:44,355 --> 00:43:46,824 Community members walked these grounds 757 00:43:46,824 --> 00:43:49,760 while mourning the loss of a loved one 758 00:43:49,760 --> 00:43:53,698 or while preparing to give birth to a new member of the tribe. 759 00:43:55,233 --> 00:43:58,636 These lands were a place to prepare the body and mind 760 00:43:58,636 --> 00:44:00,738 for many of life's journeys. 761 00:44:02,473 --> 00:44:05,276 Each family had their own bathing site 762 00:44:05,276 --> 00:44:08,746 or place of worship within the Thunderbird's Nest. 763 00:44:08,746 --> 00:44:12,650 A place so secret that an intruder could be killed 764 00:44:12,650 --> 00:44:16,521 for entering the space without invitation. 765 00:44:16,521 --> 00:44:19,323 Some of our people still practice these ceremonies 766 00:44:19,323 --> 00:44:21,392 and activities to this day. 767 00:44:21,392 --> 00:44:24,161 I still come up at least once a year 768 00:44:24,161 --> 00:44:27,632 to do "osimich" which is go into the water and bathe. 769 00:44:27,632 --> 00:44:30,468 And it's really good for relieving your mind of stress 770 00:44:30,468 --> 00:44:32,336 and planning for the rest of your week 771 00:44:32,336 --> 00:44:34,605 or your month or your year. 772 00:44:34,605 --> 00:44:36,541 I usually come in the winter months 773 00:44:36,541 --> 00:44:37,842 and go into the lake. 774 00:44:37,842 --> 00:44:39,844 And I sit in the lake for up to an hour 775 00:44:39,844 --> 00:44:41,746 and it's really relaxing, 776 00:44:41,746 --> 00:44:43,314 you don't feel the cold of the lake, 777 00:44:43,314 --> 00:44:45,583 the air is colder than the water is 778 00:44:45,583 --> 00:44:46,784 in the winter months. 779 00:44:50,254 --> 00:44:52,390 These spiritual practices, 780 00:44:52,390 --> 00:44:55,326 so linked with the natural surroundings, 781 00:44:55,326 --> 00:44:59,564 are representative of the island as a whole. 782 00:44:59,564 --> 00:45:02,233 This is a place where humans and nature 783 00:45:02,233 --> 00:45:06,437 have been inextricably linked for millennia. 784 00:45:06,437 --> 00:45:09,140 We call it "God's country", this whole area. 785 00:45:09,140 --> 00:45:11,309 It's just a place you come to and you never forget 786 00:45:11,309 --> 00:45:13,678 and you don't wanna leave. 787 00:45:13,678 --> 00:45:16,113 It's such a powerful place to be. 788 00:45:16,113 --> 00:45:18,583 When you're in there, you feel the, 789 00:45:18,583 --> 00:45:20,818 you know, the presence of nature, 790 00:45:20,818 --> 00:45:22,687 the presence of the Creator. 791 00:45:31,362 --> 00:45:36,267 From the dense canopies of ancient rainforests 792 00:45:36,267 --> 00:45:39,637 to the fungal roots that connect sleeping giants, 793 00:45:42,106 --> 00:45:46,844 from the bears and salmon that call this place home 794 00:45:46,844 --> 00:45:51,816 to the many different people who live off the land, 795 00:45:51,816 --> 00:45:56,354 this magnificent landscape is a rugged reminder 796 00:45:56,354 --> 00:45:59,190 of a world that thrived long ago. 797 00:46:00,625 --> 00:46:04,128 From its volcanic beginnings 798 00:46:04,128 --> 00:46:06,497 to its powerful ocean shores. 799 00:46:08,299 --> 00:46:12,169 From lush rainforests 800 00:46:12,169 --> 00:46:16,374 to magnificent islands in the sky. 801 00:46:16,374 --> 00:46:20,244 It is an age-old landscape 802 00:46:20,244 --> 00:46:24,181 that continues to preserve ancient ways of life. 803 00:46:25,549 --> 00:46:35,593 (♪♪♪) 804 00:46:35,593 --> 00:46:45,469 (♪♪♪) 62730

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