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This is the story of whisky
and I start it right here,
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in the heart of Tokyo.
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Around these streets are bars
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00:00:17,080 --> 00:00:20,280
crammed with people
imbibing the amber liquid.
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It'll be a fascinating journey,
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00:00:22,240 --> 00:00:27,160
so come with me as I tell the story
of Scotland's gift to the world.
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'I'm going on a pilgrimage to
find out why such a simple drink
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'has come to mean so much.'
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Hi, my name's Jim,
I'm from Scotland.
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'From the makers to the marketeers,
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'and the chemists
to the cocktail makers
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'and from the Highlands
to Hobart in Tasmania.
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00:00:49,240 --> 00:00:51,920
'I'll be meeting the people
and travelling to the places
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00:00:51,920 --> 00:00:55,320
'immersed in Scottish
whisky's world story.
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'This is the tale of an ancient
craft that became a global colossus.
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'It is the tale of Scotch.'
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00:01:05,360 --> 00:01:08,080
Isn't it grand that
this stuff's made in Scotland?
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Aye, but that's gey true.
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I can't shake the feeling that
so much of what makes this drink
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is what surrounds us
here in Scotland.
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There is something about the
landscape, about the air itself,
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some unquantifiable atmosphere that
adds its personality to our whisky.
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00:01:36,400 --> 00:01:40,360
Now, it might sound overly romantic,
but if the idea of terroir -
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the effect on a product
of its place of origin -
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00:01:43,440 --> 00:01:46,960
can be applied to wine,
then why not to Scotch?
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Some places in Scotland feel, to me,
like the living embodiment of this.
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What a majestic welcome this
epic sweep of landscapes offers.
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Over here, we have rugged, vast
Jura, with its distinctive Paps.
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And over here, we have bountiful
Islay - the Queen of the Hebrides.
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Below us, the waters swirling and
birling like a witch's cauldron.
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Islay casts a spell on you, and
perhaps that sorcery imbues whisky.
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00:03:00,880 --> 00:03:05,160
I love the place names on Islay.
They are all rooted in fact.
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00:03:05,160 --> 00:03:09,960
You know, you're looking at the sea,
the land, nature, topography,
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and all of these names that are
derived from Norse, from Gaelic,
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from Islay's history, really.
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Bunnahabhain is
"at the foot of the river".
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00:03:19,160 --> 00:03:23,320
Bunnahabhain.
Um, Port Askaig is "ash tree bay".
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"Ask-vik" in Norse was, um...
means ash, ash tree,
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00:03:28,880 --> 00:03:30,760
and, remember,
the Lords of the Isles,
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in the 12th, 13th century, would
come in, sail into Port Askaig
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00:03:34,520 --> 00:03:40,000
and use the ash for repairs, which
is lovely, a lovely part of history.
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Um, Ardbeg in Gaelic
means "small headland".
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Islay means "island bent like a
bow", so wonderful words and names
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that are so evocative of the land
and the island of Islay, really.
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00:03:54,400 --> 00:03:58,400
150 years ago on Islay,
there were 23 licensed distilleries.
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A couple of hundred years ago,
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there were many, many more
illicit distilleries and, you know,
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00:04:03,240 --> 00:04:07,080
the people who made whisky at
that time were using the landscape,
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00:04:07,080 --> 00:04:11,040
they were using nature,
the topography, hiding in caves,
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00:04:11,040 --> 00:04:14,040
they were very cunning about
where they would actually make
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00:04:14,040 --> 00:04:17,240
their whisky, so the sense
of that in Islay's landscape
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absolutely prevails, for sure -
we feel it on a daily basis.
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00:04:21,120 --> 00:04:23,320
In many ways,
this is seen as the home of whisky.
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It's the Whisky Island, isn't it?
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Do you have a sense of community?
Yes, of course, absolutely.
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You know, there are so many people
who work at distilleries, but people
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who have lived at distilleries,
generations and generations,
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so that sense of history within a
distillery is very, very strong and,
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00:04:43,920 --> 00:04:47,280
sometimes, when we talk about it,
you know, the distilleries are here,
60
00:04:47,280 --> 00:04:51,040
but the villages and communities
almost pre-date the distilleries,
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00:04:51,040 --> 00:04:56,080
so, when people now come back to
Ardbeg or Lagavulin or Laphroaig,
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you know, they talk about the...
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They talk about the community
that they lived in, the school,
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00:05:01,080 --> 00:05:04,560
the shop, the post office. It's not
just talking about the distillery.
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The distillery was part of it,
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00:05:06,640 --> 00:05:09,280
but you have a much broader
sense of community.
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00:05:09,280 --> 00:05:13,720
If you stepped back today and looked
at a map of Scotland and said,
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00:05:13,720 --> 00:05:19,160
"Right, we'll ostensibly build
120 factories to make a spirit,
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00:05:19,160 --> 00:05:22,040
"um, economically, what's
the most sensible thing to do?
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00:05:22,040 --> 00:05:24,040
"Where will we build them?
How big will they be?
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"How much will we produce?",
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you wouldn't end up with
a map of what you have today.
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You know, these distilleries are
far-flung, they're difficult
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00:05:32,720 --> 00:05:38,520
to travel to, you're reliant
on a rural population of staffing.
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There's lots of things
that, economically,
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wouldn't be the thing
that would necessarily be
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a suitable and significant
driver for investment,
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00:05:46,920 --> 00:05:49,560
but the history
of how they've developed,
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00:05:49,560 --> 00:05:52,600
and the fact that you have this
really fantastic rural diaspora,
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00:05:52,600 --> 00:05:55,760
is not only great for Scotch
whisky, but is obviously,
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00:05:55,760 --> 00:05:59,200
you know, great for making it
intrinsically part of the country.
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This is a cultural product.
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00:06:00,840 --> 00:06:04,120
You know, this comes from us.
It comes from Scotland.
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00:06:04,120 --> 00:06:07,800
It's part of our psyche.
It's part of our history.
85
00:06:07,800 --> 00:06:13,120
And once you begin to factor
that in, the importance of whisky
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00:06:13,120 --> 00:06:16,000
to a community, whether you go
up to the Highlands, to Islay
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00:06:16,000 --> 00:06:18,600
or whatever, the importance
of whisky to families,
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00:06:18,600 --> 00:06:21,240
to communities,
to farming communities,
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00:06:21,240 --> 00:06:25,440
to ancillary industries,
to transport, farmers, etc, etc,
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00:06:25,440 --> 00:06:28,760
suddenly, it becomes
more than just a product.
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As soon as whisky becomes a product,
or a brand, it loses...
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It's not magic, cos magic is kind of
ephemeral, magic is kind of made up.
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It's a real link to place
and a real link to culture.
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The whisky industry is strong,
it's forceful and it's built
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00:06:47,000 --> 00:06:50,760
an economy on Islay in this
landscape in the 21st century,
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00:06:50,760 --> 00:06:54,120
which is so important
for islanders and for locals.
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Then, it is said,
the secret is in the water.
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And there's plenty of it
about in Scotland.
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Little springs that become
clear, clean streams.
100
00:07:12,800 --> 00:07:17,360
This island has to be visited
to be understood or even believed.
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00:07:17,360 --> 00:07:19,880
The land gives itself to the whisky,
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and the whisky keeps Islay
alive and vibrant.
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It produces joyous,
ebullient characters
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who know they have
something special going.
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'Jim McEwan is one Scotland's great
distillers and an old pal of mine.'
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00:07:38,120 --> 00:07:40,960
You live in paradise, Jim.
Thank you.
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00:07:40,960 --> 00:07:43,440
I realise that. I know you do.
108
00:07:43,440 --> 00:07:45,840
But listen, all these years
I've known you, right,
109
00:07:45,840 --> 00:07:48,920
and I've interviewed you, there's
one question I've never asked you.
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00:07:48,920 --> 00:07:51,920
That's the source of your nickname
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within the world of whisky -
The Cask Whisperer.
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Now, how did that come about?
HE SIGHS: I think...
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I used to talk to casks.
114
00:08:04,280 --> 00:08:09,280
That might sound kind of bizarre,
but when I was sampling casks,
115
00:08:09,280 --> 00:08:12,880
I would, um, put a little bit
of whisky in the glass
116
00:08:12,880 --> 00:08:17,400
and I'd look at it and evaluate
the colour and the nose and think...
117
00:08:19,240 --> 00:08:23,080
"..You're just not ready yet.
I'll see you in three months' time."
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And back to the cask
and you'd try another one
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and you'd say, "Oh, my God!
120
00:08:28,320 --> 00:08:32,080
"You are ready to go!
You're ready! You can fly!"
121
00:08:32,080 --> 00:08:35,160
So, once or twice, people are
going past me in the warehouse
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00:08:35,160 --> 00:08:38,160
and said, "That guy is drunk!
He's talking to himself!"
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00:08:38,160 --> 00:08:40,920
"He's talking to the casks!"
I was actually talking to the casks.
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00:08:40,920 --> 00:08:43,560
Well, each of these barrels is
one of your children... Yeah?
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00:08:43,560 --> 00:08:45,800
..cos you created it.
Not myself, personally,
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but myself with a team,
you understand? Yes. It's not me.
127
00:08:48,360 --> 00:08:50,600
But you've created many,
many fine whiskies. I know.
128
00:08:50,600 --> 00:08:53,200
But I mean, there's a whole bunch
of us - the mashman, stillman,
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00:08:53,200 --> 00:08:57,400
all that, these sort of guys -
so it's a team effort, but you...
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00:08:57,400 --> 00:09:00,200
David, let me tell you something.
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00:09:00,200 --> 00:09:02,960
It's really, really very simple.
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If the spirit is the child,
then the cask is the mother.
133
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If the child, when born, goes
into a good cask, you're guaranteed
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00:09:14,240 --> 00:09:17,360
to have a good whisky at
the end of it, or a good adult.
135
00:09:17,360 --> 00:09:20,880
I think it is ultimately, um,
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a combination of nature and nurture.
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The nature of our landscape,
er, the atmosphere, the humidity,
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um, the environment and the nurture,
which is in people's minds.
139
00:09:39,960 --> 00:09:43,880
At all three of our distilleries
now, we produce a peated style.
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A limited volume,
but a peated style.
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And if you compare
our peated style with Islay,
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they are actually totally different.
143
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The Islay one is drier and saltier,
whereas the one in the mainland,
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up at BenRiach, and at
Glendronach and Glenglassaugh,
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they're actually quite sweet peat.
146
00:10:00,560 --> 00:10:02,560
So, you know,
the land does play a part.
147
00:10:02,560 --> 00:10:04,560
Where the peat comes from
plays a part.
148
00:10:04,560 --> 00:10:06,120
The environment plays a part.
149
00:10:06,120 --> 00:10:08,480
Glenglassaugh's on the coast.
It'll have a...
150
00:10:08,480 --> 00:10:12,200
It'll have a much different
microclimate in the warehouse
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00:10:12,200 --> 00:10:14,920
than at, say,
in the valley at Glendronach,
152
00:10:14,920 --> 00:10:17,760
or indeed near Elgin, at BenRiach.
153
00:10:17,760 --> 00:10:22,520
If landscape does indeed influence
taste, then Islay's has been
154
00:10:22,520 --> 00:10:26,160
tinting its whisky for longer
than is the case elsewhere.
155
00:10:26,160 --> 00:10:28,240
It is here, go legends,
156
00:10:28,240 --> 00:10:31,840
that some of Scotland's earliest
"water of life" was made.
157
00:10:33,440 --> 00:10:36,160
Here we are at the rather
elegant tip of Islay.
158
00:10:36,160 --> 00:10:39,760
Sail that way through the mist
and you reach Ireland.
159
00:10:39,760 --> 00:10:43,760
In the most romantic telling
of how whisky came to Scotland,
160
00:10:43,760 --> 00:10:46,800
this whole stretch of coastline
was a portal through which
161
00:10:46,800 --> 00:10:50,520
the instant Celts arrived
to preach the art of distilling.
162
00:10:50,520 --> 00:10:54,560
Now, depending on who you ask,
we have the Irish, the Romans,
163
00:10:54,560 --> 00:10:58,320
the Persians and even the Chinese
to thank for its invention.
164
00:10:58,320 --> 00:11:01,520
Whisky's origins are
as complex as a fine blend.
165
00:11:03,280 --> 00:11:06,320
This is Finlaggan,
in the centre of Islay,
166
00:11:06,320 --> 00:11:10,000
once home to the MacDonald Clan,
Lords of the Isles,
167
00:11:10,000 --> 00:11:14,320
and to what is the most likely truth
of how distilling reached Scotland.
168
00:11:14,320 --> 00:11:16,520
When Angus MacDonald married
169
00:11:16,520 --> 00:11:20,360
Princess Aine O Cathain
of Ulster, in 1300,
170
00:11:20,360 --> 00:11:24,240
Aine's entourage brought the art of
distilling from Ireland with them.
171
00:11:24,240 --> 00:11:28,040
We don't know exactly
where or when, but soon,
172
00:11:28,040 --> 00:11:30,760
these distilling techniques
were being employed to make
173
00:11:30,760 --> 00:11:35,040
a raw form of whisky here in
Scotland for the very first time.
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00:11:36,880 --> 00:11:38,600
DOG BARKS
175
00:11:42,720 --> 00:11:47,520
Then, in the 15th century, a first
recorded mention of whisky emerged.
176
00:12:00,800 --> 00:12:04,440
The art of distilling first
made it into print in Britain
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00:12:04,440 --> 00:12:06,640
in The Canterbury Tales.
178
00:12:06,640 --> 00:12:11,000
A century later, in 1494, came
Scotland's first recorded mention
179
00:12:11,000 --> 00:12:14,960
and, in it, Friar John Cor,
a Fife monk,
180
00:12:14,960 --> 00:12:19,240
is listed in King James IV's
Exchequer Rolls as having received
181
00:12:19,240 --> 00:12:22,720
"eight balls of malt for aqua vita".
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00:12:22,720 --> 00:12:26,160
Now, that's enough barley to make
over 1,000 bottles of whisky!
183
00:12:26,160 --> 00:12:28,080
But it's unlikely that Friar John
184
00:12:28,080 --> 00:12:31,880
was either Scotland's first
or only whisky producer.
185
00:12:33,480 --> 00:12:36,920
Whisky was now trickling its way
across Scotland and into the
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00:12:36,920 --> 00:12:39,400
country's customs and identity.
187
00:12:42,040 --> 00:12:46,080
The first real record I think
you get of whisky becoming Scottish,
188
00:12:46,080 --> 00:12:48,720
and kind of part
of a Scottish psyche,
189
00:12:48,720 --> 00:12:50,520
the first record of that is
190
00:12:50,520 --> 00:12:53,800
Martin Martin's account of whisky
drinking on the Isle of Lewis,
191
00:12:53,800 --> 00:12:56,360
at the beginning of the
18th century, where he says -
192
00:12:56,360 --> 00:13:00,640
and I'll paraphrase here - but he
says something along the lines of...
193
00:13:00,640 --> 00:13:05,160
when the community, that their
manner of drinking was called
194
00:13:05,160 --> 00:13:08,040
"a streah" or "a round", because
they would sit in a circle
195
00:13:08,040 --> 00:13:10,600
and the cup would be passed
from one to the other
196
00:13:10,600 --> 00:13:13,320
and all would drink
until it all became drunk.
197
00:13:13,320 --> 00:13:15,120
Now, there's kind of two ways
to look at that.
198
00:13:15,120 --> 00:13:18,320
You know, one is, that's just
people sitting around in a circle
199
00:13:18,320 --> 00:13:21,400
in a big ceilidh and getting
drunk, but I think the...
200
00:13:21,400 --> 00:13:25,040
When you begin to look deeply
into that, you see here is whisky
201
00:13:25,040 --> 00:13:31,200
being used as a social lubricant, or
as a way for a community to cohere,
202
00:13:31,200 --> 00:13:35,480
er, and here is whisky
being used to sort out,
203
00:13:35,480 --> 00:13:38,600
to loosen people's tongues,
for a community to come together,
204
00:13:38,600 --> 00:13:40,560
to say,
"Right, who's getting married?
205
00:13:40,560 --> 00:13:43,000
"Who's going to be ploughing
that particular field?"
206
00:13:43,000 --> 00:13:44,600
"Who's going to go fishing?"
207
00:13:44,600 --> 00:13:47,440
And, suddenly, I think, from
that record, you say that whisky
208
00:13:47,440 --> 00:13:51,720
isn't just this alien spirit
that's used in certain occasions,
209
00:13:51,720 --> 00:13:54,840
whisky's now part of us, it's now
part of a Scottish culture.
210
00:13:55,960 --> 00:13:57,880
From fuzzy origins,
211
00:13:57,880 --> 00:14:01,440
this simple drink seeped its way
into everyday life.
212
00:14:01,440 --> 00:14:05,520
Nowhere came to embody the spread
of whisky into an area's soul more
213
00:14:05,520 --> 00:14:07,960
than Speyside or, to some of us,
214
00:14:07,960 --> 00:14:11,600
Strathspey in
north-eastern Scotland.
215
00:14:16,360 --> 00:14:18,920
The peaty water of life.
216
00:14:18,920 --> 00:14:22,200
This is Speyside,
the capital of whisky.
217
00:14:22,200 --> 00:14:25,120
It's a place of wonder
and pilgrimage,
218
00:14:25,120 --> 00:14:29,840
a secret zone where the sweet smell
of malt seems to hang in the air.
219
00:14:29,840 --> 00:14:33,560
And it's almost as if, every corner
you turn, there's a distillery,
220
00:14:33,560 --> 00:14:35,440
and in every nook and cranny,
221
00:14:35,440 --> 00:14:39,400
you'll find evidence of the making
and the worship of whisky.
222
00:14:40,720 --> 00:14:43,640
You know, within a 20-mile radius
of where I'm standing now,
223
00:14:43,640 --> 00:14:45,480
there are about 60 distilleries.
224
00:14:45,480 --> 00:14:49,000
I mean, that's almost half
the total number in Scotland!
225
00:14:49,000 --> 00:14:53,040
But you see, it's more than a whisky
region. It's a whisky republic!
226
00:14:53,040 --> 00:14:56,080
And I think they should
rename it the Amber Republic!
227
00:14:56,080 --> 00:14:58,560
It is truly a place of wonder!
228
00:15:06,160 --> 00:15:09,320
If you talk about The Glenlivet
to the average Scotsman
229
00:15:09,320 --> 00:15:12,520
or the man on the street, his mind
goes straight to the Highlands
230
00:15:12,520 --> 00:15:17,120
and he thinks of an old distillery
producing the finest whisky
231
00:15:17,120 --> 00:15:19,920
distilled in the Highlands -
The Glenlivet.
232
00:15:22,720 --> 00:15:25,000
Glenlivet is a Speyside whisky,
233
00:15:25,000 --> 00:15:28,800
with a foot in both the past
and the present.
234
00:15:28,800 --> 00:15:33,160
Two centuries ago, one of countless
illicit distilleries on Speyside,
235
00:15:33,160 --> 00:15:35,680
it now produces the highest-selling
236
00:15:35,680 --> 00:15:37,400
single malt in the world.
237
00:15:37,400 --> 00:15:39,520
Master distiller Alan Winchester
238
00:15:39,520 --> 00:15:41,600
took me for a walk in the hills
239
00:15:41,600 --> 00:15:44,000
overlooking this amber realm.
240
00:15:44,000 --> 00:15:47,520
What would this place be like
without...? You've got - what? -
241
00:15:47,520 --> 00:15:52,200
something like 50-60 distilleries
round here? Well, absolutely, um...
242
00:15:52,200 --> 00:15:55,600
I mean, it's the heart and soul
of this country, isn't it? Yes.
243
00:15:55,600 --> 00:15:59,480
Er, it's been very important.
It's very important.
244
00:15:59,480 --> 00:16:02,120
It goes along with
all the traditional...
245
00:16:02,120 --> 00:16:07,200
You can see it.
..farming, forestry, landed estates,
246
00:16:07,200 --> 00:16:11,240
where you can go fishing and
shooting. The whisky distillation
247
00:16:11,240 --> 00:16:15,520
really took off here after
the 1824 Distilleries Act,
248
00:16:15,520 --> 00:16:18,120
getting the push with the railways.
249
00:16:18,120 --> 00:16:20,800
It's got all the things
correct here.
250
00:16:20,800 --> 00:16:24,160
It's got bags of peat,
if you want to make peaty whisky.
251
00:16:24,160 --> 00:16:27,480
Lots of water,
a fairly dry climate at the coast,
252
00:16:27,480 --> 00:16:29,960
which is ideal for growing barley,
253
00:16:29,960 --> 00:16:32,880
so all the...
all the magic comes together
254
00:16:32,880 --> 00:16:35,040
and then, as Sir Walter Scott said,
255
00:16:35,040 --> 00:16:37,680
the cunning alchemists
were based at Glenlivet.
256
00:16:37,680 --> 00:16:40,120
DAVID LAUGHS
And that's an important part
257
00:16:40,120 --> 00:16:43,000
in making whisky as well.
Cunning alchemists? Yes.
258
00:16:43,000 --> 00:16:45,120
Aha! I like that title.
259
00:16:45,120 --> 00:16:48,240
If you travel round the world,
you find local spirits
260
00:16:48,240 --> 00:16:52,360
and you'll say, "Why's that spirit
not bigger in the world?"
261
00:16:52,360 --> 00:16:55,320
You go to Calvados, you get
that apple brandy. Mm-hm.
262
00:16:55,320 --> 00:16:57,200
You do see it round about.
263
00:16:57,200 --> 00:17:02,160
Whisky was this local drink,
it was used by my great-grandfathers
264
00:17:02,160 --> 00:17:05,720
and that to turn a little barley
into a bit of cash, you know,
265
00:17:05,720 --> 00:17:08,880
add value to it
and it would keep better.
266
00:17:08,880 --> 00:17:13,320
It was one of the few agricultural
products that improves with keeping,
267
00:17:13,320 --> 00:17:15,760
with age,
you can't keep milk for years.
268
00:17:15,760 --> 00:17:19,040
You make cheese
to preserve your milk, etc.
269
00:17:19,040 --> 00:17:23,040
So it was part of that, and then it
was very much woven into the fabric
270
00:17:23,040 --> 00:17:26,600
of the country from
the early days of distillation.
271
00:17:26,600 --> 00:17:28,880
One of the founders of Cragganmore
distillery speaks
272
00:17:28,880 --> 00:17:31,080
about 200 illicit stills here.
273
00:17:31,080 --> 00:17:34,520
Now, that seems a lot
of little stills working away,
274
00:17:34,520 --> 00:17:37,360
so there was crofts
all around here, er...
275
00:17:38,560 --> 00:17:41,000
Small production,
so, to fill a few ankers,
276
00:17:41,000 --> 00:17:43,080
you needed a few of these working.
277
00:17:43,080 --> 00:17:46,040
So, all these communities were
working their little stills,
278
00:17:46,040 --> 00:17:48,760
very remote, and also,
some of the estates
279
00:17:48,760 --> 00:17:53,160
would take whisky as the rent.
It would be part of that cash trade.
280
00:17:53,160 --> 00:17:56,160
Just for consumption?
For their own personal consumption?
281
00:17:56,160 --> 00:17:57,920
Personal or sell on.
282
00:17:57,920 --> 00:18:01,920
Because many of the local distillers
here were the distillers and
283
00:18:01,920 --> 00:18:05,560
then they handed it onto
the smuggler, the other...
284
00:18:05,560 --> 00:18:07,400
A distiller was called a smuggler,
285
00:18:07,400 --> 00:18:10,800
but the smuggler was the guy that
took it to the market, and they were
286
00:18:10,800 --> 00:18:13,960
the hard men that would take on
the Customs and Excise, etc.
287
00:18:13,960 --> 00:18:17,400
A lot of the ladies did the
distilling in the area round here,
288
00:18:17,400 --> 00:18:19,440
in these 200 illicit stills.
289
00:18:19,440 --> 00:18:23,040
When they smuggled them on land,
were they actually carrying casks?
290
00:18:23,040 --> 00:18:25,840
They would strap the casks
to the ponies.
291
00:18:25,840 --> 00:18:31,400
Two ankers onto the side of
a Highland pony and away they went.
292
00:18:31,400 --> 00:18:33,760
It was maturing all the way
to the market.
293
00:18:33,760 --> 00:18:35,000
THEY LAUGH
294
00:18:38,400 --> 00:18:41,040
The smuggling of whisky
was a way of life.
295
00:18:41,040 --> 00:18:44,960
Scallywag, brazen stories are
still proudly told on Speyside.
296
00:18:44,960 --> 00:18:47,600
One of my favourite spots here is
297
00:18:47,600 --> 00:18:50,520
the Fiddichside Inn,
in Craigellachie.
298
00:18:50,520 --> 00:18:53,760
Joe Brandie married into a family
that had been running the pub
299
00:18:53,760 --> 00:18:59,200
since 1919 and were shifting whisky
less legitimately before that.
300
00:18:59,200 --> 00:19:01,280
Joe, there's a wonderful
photograph up there
301
00:19:01,280 --> 00:19:03,240
of an interesting character.
Who's he?
302
00:19:03,240 --> 00:19:08,600
That was my wife's grandfather and
he was a gamekeeper over in Glass,
303
00:19:08,600 --> 00:19:12,160
you know, between Dufftown
and Huntly... Uh-huh.
304
00:19:12,160 --> 00:19:15,040
..er, in a very remote croft there.
305
00:19:15,040 --> 00:19:20,960
And he used to make his own whisky
and the Customs and Excise
306
00:19:20,960 --> 00:19:24,120
used to go and try to catch him.
307
00:19:24,120 --> 00:19:28,880
They would go dressed as tramps
and knock at the door and
308
00:19:28,880 --> 00:19:31,320
he would say, "Oh, come on in!"
309
00:19:31,320 --> 00:19:34,320
and they thought,
"Oh, well, this is it now."
310
00:19:34,320 --> 00:19:38,040
They were asking for something to
warm them up and they thought he'd
311
00:19:38,040 --> 00:19:42,360
produce the whisky, but he didn't,
he gave them a bowl of soup instead.
312
00:19:42,360 --> 00:19:46,240
THEY LAUGH
But he was finally caught.
313
00:19:46,240 --> 00:19:50,200
His boss was the laird
over at where he worked.
314
00:19:50,200 --> 00:19:54,640
It was in a dinner down in London
and, unknown to him,
315
00:19:54,640 --> 00:19:59,960
sitting next to him was the head
of Customs and Excise and, er,
316
00:19:59,960 --> 00:20:04,440
he said to the head of Customs -
he didn't know that was him -
317
00:20:04,440 --> 00:20:08,880
he said, "I would get
a better dram from a gamekeeper."
318
00:20:08,880 --> 00:20:14,520
So they came up and caught him
and confiscated some of his gear
319
00:20:14,520 --> 00:20:16,600
and he was fined £10.
320
00:20:17,720 --> 00:20:21,680
Just because of an overheard
conversation in London? Yes.
321
00:20:23,000 --> 00:20:25,520
Dear me, oh, that's a shame
that he was caught out.
322
00:20:25,520 --> 00:20:27,560
Yeah, he was caught out.
323
00:20:27,560 --> 00:20:29,560
So, Joe, when you were a boy,
324
00:20:29,560 --> 00:20:33,200
you must have been aware of
illegal stills all round this area?
325
00:20:33,200 --> 00:20:37,760
Oh, there was a lot, but I don't
remember much about them at all.
326
00:20:37,760 --> 00:20:39,880
But I know there was a lot,
327
00:20:39,880 --> 00:20:41,880
there was a lot in Glenlivet
328
00:20:41,880 --> 00:20:45,120
and they used go to Inverness
with the whisky,
329
00:20:45,120 --> 00:20:49,360
but they got word that
they were going to be waylaid
330
00:20:49,360 --> 00:20:51,880
on the way
by the Customs and Excise,
331
00:20:51,880 --> 00:20:56,040
so they hired a hearse -
and it was horse in these days -
332
00:20:56,040 --> 00:20:59,680
put a coffin in it and put
all the whisky into the coffin
333
00:20:59,680 --> 00:21:01,360
and when they passed,
334
00:21:01,360 --> 00:21:04,640
the Customs and Excise,
they took off their bonnets
335
00:21:04,640 --> 00:21:07,160
and let them go through.
336
00:21:07,160 --> 00:21:10,600
And you can get a hell of a lot of
whisky into a coffin, couldn't you?
337
00:21:10,600 --> 00:21:12,480
A good lot, yeah.
338
00:21:12,480 --> 00:21:16,920
In this region, it feels like
whisky is in the soil.
339
00:21:16,920 --> 00:21:19,800
While history's more clandestine
traditions are gone,
340
00:21:19,800 --> 00:21:22,200
some roots remain firm.
341
00:21:22,200 --> 00:21:25,320
There are entire
whisky generations here,
342
00:21:25,320 --> 00:21:28,920
some connected by association,
and some by family.
343
00:21:30,200 --> 00:21:32,800
Glenfarclas,
one of the many distilleries
344
00:21:32,800 --> 00:21:35,040
scattered throughout Speyside.
345
00:21:35,040 --> 00:21:38,760
Like many places, this seems
to inspire an old-fashioned
346
00:21:38,760 --> 00:21:41,480
devotion and dedication
from the workforce.
347
00:21:41,480 --> 00:21:44,840
I've found that's true right across
the whisky industry in Scotland.
348
00:21:44,840 --> 00:21:48,440
Because everyone I talk to
seems to have a passion
349
00:21:48,440 --> 00:21:51,400
and a commitment to their work
and the craft,
350
00:21:51,400 --> 00:21:55,120
and in a cynical 21st century,
that's pretty rare.
351
00:21:55,120 --> 00:21:59,640
But I guess it helps that very often
the distilleries are family owned,
352
00:21:59,640 --> 00:22:03,000
and none more so than this one,
because this is owned by one of
353
00:22:03,000 --> 00:22:05,600
the first great whisky families,
the Grants,
354
00:22:05,600 --> 00:22:09,000
who are now in their sixth
generation of custody.
355
00:22:09,000 --> 00:22:12,080
George,
Glenfarclas is a family affair.
356
00:22:12,080 --> 00:22:14,400
It is indeed.
Is that important to you?
357
00:22:14,400 --> 00:22:16,480
It's the most important thing
that we have.
358
00:22:16,480 --> 00:22:19,080
It gives us our most exclusive
selling point,
359
00:22:19,080 --> 00:22:23,360
our most exclusive, advantageous...
over other brands.
360
00:22:23,360 --> 00:22:25,040
In the world today,
361
00:22:25,040 --> 00:22:28,040
so many brands are being overtaken
by big conglomerates.
362
00:22:28,040 --> 00:22:30,480
We're still family owned,
still family run,
363
00:22:30,480 --> 00:22:32,120
still very much family hands on.
364
00:22:32,120 --> 00:22:34,760
And you're determined to keep it
that way. Very much so.
365
00:22:34,760 --> 00:22:38,360
Very much so. So, you must be
the sixth generation.
366
00:22:38,360 --> 00:22:41,400
I'm the sixth generation
of my family to work here.
367
00:22:42,560 --> 00:22:45,720
And you can trace them all back
to the very origins.
368
00:22:45,720 --> 00:22:49,000
We do, so it was my
great-great-great-grandfather
369
00:22:49,000 --> 00:22:51,640
that bought Glenfarclas in 1865
370
00:22:51,640 --> 00:22:54,920
for the princely sum
of £511 19s.
371
00:22:54,920 --> 00:22:56,720
Away you go!
372
00:22:56,720 --> 00:23:00,400
So we hope it's worth
a little bit more now. I bet it is.
373
00:23:00,400 --> 00:23:03,480
I mean, I'm able to drink whisky,
taste whisky,
374
00:23:03,480 --> 00:23:05,520
sell whisky that was made
by my grandfather,
375
00:23:05,520 --> 00:23:09,080
made by my father, you know,
it gives you so much passion to it.
376
00:23:09,080 --> 00:23:12,640
And it's not even just the fact that
we're family owned, family ran,
377
00:23:12,640 --> 00:23:14,480
so many people that have worked here
378
00:23:14,480 --> 00:23:16,600
have worked here
for generations as well.
379
00:23:16,600 --> 00:23:18,920
So it really is
a totally family affair.
380
00:23:18,920 --> 00:23:21,720
But also that means the whisky
you're producing today will be
381
00:23:21,720 --> 00:23:24,920
enjoyed by your children or your
grandchildren in years to come.
382
00:23:24,920 --> 00:23:26,800
That's the beauty of it.
383
00:23:26,800 --> 00:23:30,640
So any mistakes I make, nobody will
find out for a few generations.
384
00:23:30,640 --> 00:23:33,800
You'll be well gone.
That's very good.
385
00:23:33,800 --> 00:23:36,880
That's what you call
passing the buck. That's it.
386
00:23:36,880 --> 00:23:41,320
How many people do you employ here?
We've got about 35, 36 people here.
387
00:23:41,320 --> 00:23:44,480
Some of them have been here
for a very long time.
388
00:23:44,480 --> 00:23:47,400
We have a gentleman
in the still house who's been here
389
00:23:47,400 --> 00:23:49,320
for over 42 years.
390
00:23:49,320 --> 00:23:52,840
42 years?
Yes, he's been here for a while.
391
00:23:52,840 --> 00:23:56,960
So will he get a special bottle
or a cask when he retires?
392
00:23:56,960 --> 00:24:00,200
Well, he's one of these people
that I don't think ever will retire.
393
00:24:00,200 --> 00:24:02,200
But for his 40th anniversary,
394
00:24:02,200 --> 00:24:04,880
we gave him a gallon bottle
of 40-year-old...
395
00:24:04,880 --> 00:24:08,560
Ohh! ..which apparently
didn't last very long.
396
00:24:08,560 --> 00:24:10,120
THEY LAUGH
397
00:24:12,040 --> 00:24:15,520
It wasn't always as easy to move
whisky around as it is now
398
00:24:15,520 --> 00:24:19,400
for Glenfarclas and Speyside's
many other distilleries.
399
00:24:19,400 --> 00:24:22,680
The coming of the railways
was momentous for this area.
400
00:24:24,920 --> 00:24:28,680
I'm about to jump aboard
the Whisky Train. I can't wait.
401
00:24:33,920 --> 00:24:36,440
TRAIN WHISTLE BLOWS
402
00:24:42,280 --> 00:24:44,800
I love train journeys,
403
00:24:44,800 --> 00:24:48,200
but this has got to be the slowest
train journey I've never taken.
404
00:24:52,080 --> 00:24:55,240
Good afternoon, sir. Can I
interest you in a wee dram?
405
00:24:55,240 --> 00:24:56,840
Peter, what are you offering me?
406
00:24:56,840 --> 00:24:59,600
I'm offering you
Chivas Regal 18-year-old.
407
00:24:59,600 --> 00:25:02,240
I think that'll do me very nicely,
thank you.
408
00:25:02,240 --> 00:25:05,640
OK? Slainte! Thank you.
Your very good health.
409
00:25:11,840 --> 00:25:15,440
This railway shunts along
as a tourist attraction.
410
00:25:15,440 --> 00:25:19,120
It takes day-trippers
from Dufftown to Keith...
411
00:25:19,120 --> 00:25:20,840
through beautiful Speyside.
412
00:25:22,040 --> 00:25:25,120
But it also has a deep meaning
to the whisky industry
413
00:25:25,120 --> 00:25:28,320
and the flowering of this area
as the centre of whisky,
414
00:25:28,320 --> 00:25:32,080
because, historically, it was very
difficult to get anything in or out
415
00:25:32,080 --> 00:25:34,160
of this remote pocket of Scotland.
416
00:25:34,160 --> 00:25:37,240
And then suddenly,
at the tail end of the 19th century,
417
00:25:37,240 --> 00:25:41,120
they opened the railway
and it became much, much easier
418
00:25:41,120 --> 00:25:45,920
to get coal into the area and the
best of Strathspey out to the world.
419
00:25:45,920 --> 00:25:50,720
And just as Islay and Campbeltown
had used water as their motorway
420
00:25:50,720 --> 00:25:54,000
to create their own eras
as being the centre of
421
00:25:54,000 --> 00:25:57,640
whisky excellence,
the railway shifted it here,
422
00:25:57,640 --> 00:26:01,640
so these very tracks helped
change this area
423
00:26:01,640 --> 00:26:04,240
and this industry for ever.
424
00:26:04,240 --> 00:26:06,000
Here's to the Whisky Railway.
425
00:26:09,880 --> 00:26:13,120
TRAIN WHISTLE BLOWS
426
00:26:15,960 --> 00:26:19,800
Tourism founded upon history and
a vibrant, modern whisky industry
427
00:26:19,800 --> 00:26:22,240
brings thousands of people
to Speyside
428
00:26:22,240 --> 00:26:24,320
from every corner
of the globe.
429
00:26:24,320 --> 00:26:26,120
Some of them never leave.
430
00:26:26,120 --> 00:26:27,880
Like Tatsuya Minagawa,
431
00:26:27,880 --> 00:26:31,000
owner of the Highlander Inn
in Craigellachie.
432
00:26:31,000 --> 00:26:35,560
How long have you been here?
17, 18 years. 17, 18 years.
433
00:26:35,560 --> 00:26:37,240
Stopped counting.
434
00:26:37,240 --> 00:26:40,800
Wow! So what was your passion?
Did you come because of the whisky?
435
00:26:40,800 --> 00:26:41,880
Purely, yeah.
436
00:26:41,880 --> 00:26:44,600
So initially it was the whisky,
then you fell in love with
437
00:26:44,600 --> 00:26:46,640
the country and the people
and you decided to stay.
438
00:26:46,640 --> 00:26:49,000
Absolutely, yes,
it's not only whisky,
439
00:26:49,000 --> 00:26:50,720
I'm living totally your life -
440
00:26:50,720 --> 00:26:54,360
whisky, scenery and the people,
all mixed together.
441
00:26:54,360 --> 00:26:57,000
You're in the heart of
Scotch whisky country... Mm-hm.
442
00:26:57,000 --> 00:26:59,720
..and you're selling Japanese
whisky. Yes.
443
00:26:59,720 --> 00:27:01,600
Do many people buy it?
444
00:27:01,600 --> 00:27:03,600
Surprisingly yes. Really?
445
00:27:03,600 --> 00:27:07,240
It's not cheap stuff,
it's quite pricey, some of them,
446
00:27:07,240 --> 00:27:09,400
but ten years ago, people say,
447
00:27:09,400 --> 00:27:13,440
"Oh, Japanese whisky, rubbish!"
I'm not doing Scotch.
448
00:27:13,440 --> 00:27:17,360
But nowadays, people come here only
for Japanese whisky, some people.
449
00:27:17,360 --> 00:27:19,440
Do you appreciate the differences
450
00:27:19,440 --> 00:27:22,200
between Japanese whisky
and Scotch whisky?
451
00:27:22,200 --> 00:27:26,120
Japanese whisky industry inspired by
Scottish whisky industry.
452
00:27:26,120 --> 00:27:29,440
Basically, we learn how to make
whisky from this country.
453
00:27:29,440 --> 00:27:32,680
So, ingredients we use
and the method -
454
00:27:32,680 --> 00:27:35,040
exactly this same
as the Scottish way.
455
00:27:35,040 --> 00:27:37,840
So I'm always telling people,
you know,
456
00:27:37,840 --> 00:27:42,640
Champagne comes from France,
you know, Cava from Spain.
457
00:27:42,640 --> 00:27:46,640
All the same ingredients,
same principle, right?
458
00:27:46,640 --> 00:27:48,640
Both good product.
459
00:27:48,640 --> 00:27:52,520
So Japanese whisky and whisky from
Scotland, pretty much like that.
460
00:27:52,520 --> 00:27:55,200
You're in a very unique position.
461
00:27:55,200 --> 00:27:58,040
You're a man from Japan,
from the other side of the world,
462
00:27:58,040 --> 00:28:03,080
you grew up in whisky, you come here
and you're surrounded by whisky
463
00:28:03,080 --> 00:28:04,760
at the heart of whisky country,
464
00:28:04,760 --> 00:28:08,520
so you see it from
an outsider's perspective.
465
00:28:08,520 --> 00:28:11,800
Do we do enough, do we appreciate
our own whisky enough?
466
00:28:11,800 --> 00:28:14,880
Or does it take someone like you
to come from another culture,
467
00:28:14,880 --> 00:28:16,840
another language,
to come and say to us,
468
00:28:16,840 --> 00:28:19,040
"Hey, look what you have
on your doorstep"?
469
00:28:19,040 --> 00:28:21,280
I think the same happens back home,
you know?
470
00:28:21,280 --> 00:28:24,800
Young people don't drink sake,
you know, drink beer,
471
00:28:24,800 --> 00:28:28,080
wine or a cocktail,
it's exactly the same as here.
472
00:28:28,080 --> 00:28:30,800
Say some weekend
a number of young people,
473
00:28:30,800 --> 00:28:33,880
they pretty much drink vodka and...
474
00:28:35,120 --> 00:28:39,000
..Jack Daniel's or maybe
a pint of lager,
475
00:28:39,000 --> 00:28:42,000
so whisky is, I don't know...
476
00:28:42,000 --> 00:28:46,520
You have to be like some sort of a
certain age to appreciate... Mm-hm.
477
00:28:46,520 --> 00:28:49,640
Yeah. So, I don't know, those
young people when they grow up,
478
00:28:49,640 --> 00:28:52,200
a little older, maybe they will
start drinking whisky.
479
00:28:52,200 --> 00:28:55,440
When they reach the age of wisdom...
Oh, that's a good one, aye, yeah.
480
00:28:55,440 --> 00:28:58,160
..they will start to drink whisky.
Yeah. Yes.
481
00:29:03,000 --> 00:29:07,640
There remains a Speyside institution
built upon such wisdom of age,
482
00:29:07,640 --> 00:29:11,840
a Victorian grocer, blender
of whisky and curator of fine malts
483
00:29:11,840 --> 00:29:13,760
that continues to thrive.
484
00:29:15,840 --> 00:29:19,200
In 1895, a family opened
a grocery store here
485
00:29:19,200 --> 00:29:21,320
on a street corner
in the heart of Elgin...
486
00:29:21,320 --> 00:29:23,160
It was Gordon & MacPhail's,
487
00:29:23,160 --> 00:29:25,960
and like the other great whisky
families, like the Buchanans and
488
00:29:25,960 --> 00:29:29,720
the Walkers, they created a great
whisky brand from a corner shop,
489
00:29:29,720 --> 00:29:32,160
and as the whisky side
of the business expanded,
490
00:29:32,160 --> 00:29:35,200
they had the foresight to do deals
with the Spanish for their oak,
491
00:29:35,200 --> 00:29:37,680
and with fellow Scots
for their best whisky.
492
00:29:37,680 --> 00:29:41,520
So, Gordon & MacPhail soon became
a byword for quality whisky.
493
00:29:41,520 --> 00:29:44,560
It's a business rooted in the family
and it still is.
494
00:29:46,960 --> 00:29:49,000
SHOP BELL JINGLES
495
00:29:50,280 --> 00:29:53,520
Stephen, this shrine to whisky
started off as a wee grocer's shop
496
00:29:53,520 --> 00:29:55,960
on a street corner in the heart
of Elgin, didn't it?
497
00:29:55,960 --> 00:29:58,800
Yes, back in 1895, David.
Yeah, so a long...
498
00:29:58,800 --> 00:30:02,040
Just coming up to our
121st birthday, in fact.
499
00:30:02,040 --> 00:30:05,600
It was James Gordon and John
MacPhail who started the business
500
00:30:05,600 --> 00:30:08,160
with a young apprentice
by the name of John Urquhart,
501
00:30:08,160 --> 00:30:10,960
and John,
who was my great-grandfather,
502
00:30:10,960 --> 00:30:13,600
worked his way up through
the business very quickly
503
00:30:13,600 --> 00:30:17,560
to become a partner by 1911
504
00:30:17,560 --> 00:30:20,360
and in 1915 he was sole owner.
505
00:30:20,360 --> 00:30:22,960
So, the Urquharts have been involved
since day one.
506
00:30:22,960 --> 00:30:25,840
We've passed the knowledge
of whisky down through, now,
507
00:30:25,840 --> 00:30:27,240
four generations.
508
00:30:27,240 --> 00:30:31,000
Gordon & MacPhail was built
on two strands of whisky selling -
509
00:30:31,000 --> 00:30:34,960
they made blended whiskies,
as befitted a grocery store,
510
00:30:34,960 --> 00:30:38,280
and bought casks to be matured
in their own warehouses,
511
00:30:38,280 --> 00:30:40,520
then bottled and sold on.
512
00:30:40,520 --> 00:30:43,280
That second strand thrives today.
513
00:30:44,640 --> 00:30:46,840
LIGHT SWITCHES CLICK
514
00:30:48,440 --> 00:30:49,760
Wow!
515
00:30:50,720 --> 00:30:52,160
Look at this!
516
00:30:53,160 --> 00:30:55,720
It's a liquid museum of whisky.
517
00:30:55,720 --> 00:30:57,840
It's owned by Gordon & MacPhail.
518
00:30:59,440 --> 00:31:05,120
There are over 7,000 oak casks here,
slowly maturing the whisky inside,
519
00:31:05,120 --> 00:31:09,120
and each barrel is stamped with
the name of a different distillery,
520
00:31:09,120 --> 00:31:12,880
and the idea is that they're
brought here for further maturation,
521
00:31:12,880 --> 00:31:16,320
so that the aspects of climate
and place
522
00:31:16,320 --> 00:31:18,920
can add unique flavours
to the whisky.
523
00:31:21,000 --> 00:31:24,040
Gordon & MacPhail's believe
it's the wood that makes the whisky
524
00:31:24,040 --> 00:31:26,840
and I think I tend to agree
with them
525
00:31:26,840 --> 00:31:31,200
cos, you see, these casks
are a portal into another world.
526
00:31:35,320 --> 00:31:38,520
It's quite something to imagine
that, once bottled or blended,
527
00:31:38,520 --> 00:31:40,600
so much of the liquid gold here
528
00:31:40,600 --> 00:31:44,000
will reach markets
way beyond these shores.
529
00:31:44,000 --> 00:31:48,920
Over 90% of Scotland's whisky is
sold outside of the United Kingdom.
530
00:31:55,400 --> 00:31:58,480
When Scotland sells its whisky,
it sells casks,
531
00:31:58,480 --> 00:32:01,640
but also places like Speyside...
532
00:32:01,640 --> 00:32:03,160
The marketing of Scotch
533
00:32:03,160 --> 00:32:06,120
has long promoted
an image of Scotland to the world
534
00:32:06,120 --> 00:32:08,320
with triumphant success,
535
00:32:08,320 --> 00:32:11,960
no matter how far from reality
that image stretches.
536
00:32:11,960 --> 00:32:13,840
BAGPIPES PLAY
537
00:32:13,840 --> 00:32:15,480
A land of beauty and poetry...
538
00:32:16,840 --> 00:32:19,160
A land of violence and colour...
539
00:32:19,160 --> 00:32:21,680
A part of the world
unlike any other in its people,
540
00:32:21,680 --> 00:32:24,120
its exciting history
and even its products...
541
00:32:25,400 --> 00:32:28,880
..probably the most famous
of which is...Scotch.
542
00:32:29,920 --> 00:32:34,600
Fusing a sense of the romantic with
arresting visuals and novel methods,
543
00:32:34,600 --> 00:32:37,080
advertising put this product
on the path
544
00:32:37,080 --> 00:32:39,400
to global success.
545
00:32:39,400 --> 00:32:41,920
In 1898, Dewar's produced
546
00:32:41,920 --> 00:32:45,840
the world's earliest filmed
advertisement for any product.
547
00:32:45,840 --> 00:32:48,560
It was the first major strike
by an industry
548
00:32:48,560 --> 00:32:52,240
which knew that sales
rested on image and communication.
549
00:32:54,600 --> 00:32:58,400
The story of Johnnie Walker
represents Scotland's success
550
00:32:58,400 --> 00:33:02,960
in marrying tradition and innovation
to take a drink to the world.
551
00:33:02,960 --> 00:33:07,240
This is the life-sized figure of
the very handsome Striding Man...
552
00:33:08,520 --> 00:33:10,360
Johnnie Walker's Red Label,
553
00:33:10,360 --> 00:33:13,120
which is the largest-selling
Scotch whisky in the world,
554
00:33:13,120 --> 00:33:15,400
and it's owned by Diageo.
555
00:33:15,400 --> 00:33:19,360
Now, Diageo have enough resources
to employee six archivists,
556
00:33:19,360 --> 00:33:21,080
which is extraordinary in itself,
557
00:33:21,080 --> 00:33:24,480
and they take great pride in being
custodians of the history
558
00:33:24,480 --> 00:33:27,720
of some of the major whisky brands
over the last 100 years,
559
00:33:27,720 --> 00:33:31,960
but more than that, they also
contain the image of Scotland
560
00:33:31,960 --> 00:33:35,360
as it has changed throughout the
world over those hundreds of years.
561
00:33:42,640 --> 00:33:47,640
Oh, these wonderful old tomes, look
at the size of them, great ledgers!
562
00:33:47,640 --> 00:33:49,600
All written by hand.
563
00:33:50,680 --> 00:33:54,000
'The Diageo Archive also includes
a temple of bottles.'
564
00:33:54,000 --> 00:33:55,080
Cor, wow!
565
00:33:56,600 --> 00:33:58,160
Christine, this is amazing.
566
00:34:00,000 --> 00:34:02,920
We use this space to show
the evolution of our brands from
567
00:34:02,920 --> 00:34:06,200
the very earliest bottle, and also
to look at brands that have come
568
00:34:06,200 --> 00:34:07,640
and gone over the years.
569
00:34:07,640 --> 00:34:10,120
This is actually our oldest bottle
of Johnnie Walker.
570
00:34:10,120 --> 00:34:12,120
It dates from the 1880s.
571
00:34:12,120 --> 00:34:14,560
We don't really know
why it has a snake in it...
572
00:34:14,560 --> 00:34:17,680
Um, we think it left Scotland
without a snake
573
00:34:17,680 --> 00:34:19,720
and probably went somewhere
in the Far East,
574
00:34:19,720 --> 00:34:22,440
but it's not unusual for things
that end up in whisky bottles.
575
00:34:22,440 --> 00:34:24,200
That is truly bizarre!
576
00:34:24,200 --> 00:34:26,360
We're not sure how it ended up
back in Scotland,
577
00:34:26,360 --> 00:34:28,120
but we actually found it
578
00:34:28,120 --> 00:34:30,720
when we were clearing out a space
at one of our packaging plants
579
00:34:30,720 --> 00:34:32,720
about 12, 13 years ago.
580
00:34:32,720 --> 00:34:35,800
So it's amazing what you can still
find around in the industry
581
00:34:35,800 --> 00:34:37,640
and in the business.
582
00:34:37,640 --> 00:34:40,960
So, we're always adding to
the archive with historical items,
583
00:34:40,960 --> 00:34:44,480
but actually, we always collect
everything that we create today
584
00:34:44,480 --> 00:34:46,800
to build the archive of the future.
So what I love...
585
00:34:46,800 --> 00:34:48,800
One of the things that I love
about our archive,
586
00:34:48,800 --> 00:34:51,240
it's never going to be complete
cos we're always going to be
587
00:34:51,240 --> 00:34:53,000
adding to it
and always telling the story.
588
00:34:53,000 --> 00:34:56,000
Yeah, it's a living, working,
growing archive. Absolutely, yeah.
589
00:34:56,000 --> 00:35:00,040
So, this side really shows some
of our Johnnie Walker collection,
590
00:35:00,040 --> 00:35:03,800
our Gold Label, Blue Label
and Green Label, but actually,
591
00:35:03,800 --> 00:35:06,760
around the other side
we have Red Label and Black Label,
592
00:35:06,760 --> 00:35:11,680
and they were introduced in 1909
and the display really shows
593
00:35:11,680 --> 00:35:15,000
the evolution from our earliest
right through to present day.
594
00:35:15,000 --> 00:35:18,720
Christine, one of the most
famous logos and brand marks
595
00:35:18,720 --> 00:35:22,040
in the world of whisky
is the Johnnie Walker walking man.
596
00:35:22,040 --> 00:35:24,320
Yeah, the Striding Man, yeah, yeah.
The Striding Man.
597
00:35:24,320 --> 00:35:26,040
Yep. So, yeah, he's really famous,
598
00:35:26,040 --> 00:35:29,080
so wherever you travel around
the world, everybody recognises
599
00:35:29,080 --> 00:35:32,200
the Striding Man and associates it
with Johnnie Walker.
600
00:35:32,200 --> 00:35:35,400
Um, we've got some bottles where
you can see how the Striding Man
601
00:35:35,400 --> 00:35:38,040
first appears...
602
00:35:38,040 --> 00:35:42,000
So, he was actually drawn in 1908
and... 1908?!
603
00:35:42,000 --> 00:35:47,000
Yeah, so the story goes that we...
The Walkers invited Tom Browne,
604
00:35:47,000 --> 00:35:49,680
who was the cartoonist
for Punch magazine to lunch
605
00:35:49,680 --> 00:35:52,320
and he drew the figure
on the back of a menu card.
606
00:35:52,320 --> 00:35:54,280
But even though it was drawn
in 1908,
607
00:35:54,280 --> 00:35:57,520
it didn't actually appear
on the pack until the 1950s.
608
00:35:57,520 --> 00:36:01,400
So, here we can see how the
Striding Man looked in the 1950s.
609
00:36:01,400 --> 00:36:04,320
Did he change over the years?
He has evolved.
610
00:36:04,320 --> 00:36:08,600
Yeah, so right from when Tom drew
him in 1908, through to the '50s,
611
00:36:08,600 --> 00:36:11,520
individual artists
drew the figure,
612
00:36:11,520 --> 00:36:15,280
and then, in more recent times,
they've actually modified him,
613
00:36:15,280 --> 00:36:18,560
made him a bit more contemporary,
and in 1999 we switched
614
00:36:18,560 --> 00:36:22,280
the direction in which he was
walking. Why did you do that?
615
00:36:22,280 --> 00:36:25,760
That coincided with the launch of
our Keep Walking campaign,
616
00:36:25,760 --> 00:36:29,080
which was the first truly global
advertising campaign for
617
00:36:29,080 --> 00:36:32,080
Johnnie Walker, but it was also
the advent of the Millennium,
618
00:36:32,080 --> 00:36:35,320
so it was all about the brand
moving into the next century.
619
00:36:35,320 --> 00:36:40,720
'In 2009, Diageo and London agency
Bartle Bogle Hegarty produced
620
00:36:40,720 --> 00:36:43,920
'this enchanting commercial
in which Robert Carlyle delivers
621
00:36:43,920 --> 00:36:47,040
'the history of Johnnie Walker
blended whisky
622
00:36:47,040 --> 00:36:48,600
'in just six minutes.'
623
00:36:48,600 --> 00:36:51,840
John actually grew up on a farm
on the west coast of Scotland
624
00:36:51,840 --> 00:36:55,520
and when he was 14 years old,
in 1819, his father died
625
00:36:55,520 --> 00:36:57,840
and the decision was taken
to sell the farm
626
00:36:57,840 --> 00:37:00,560
and the money that they raised,
they used to buy a grocery shop
627
00:37:00,560 --> 00:37:02,120
and that's where he started selling
628
00:37:02,120 --> 00:37:04,080
and eventually blending
his own whiskies.
629
00:37:04,080 --> 00:37:06,440
But young John was smart enough
to be lucky.
630
00:37:06,440 --> 00:37:08,920
His father's farm,
where he was born and raised,
631
00:37:08,920 --> 00:37:12,720
was sold and the proceeds used
to open a grocer's...
632
00:37:12,720 --> 00:37:16,320
'The Johnnie Walker described
so vividly by Carlyle
633
00:37:16,320 --> 00:37:20,080
'was just one of many individual
entrepreneurial whisky blenders
634
00:37:20,080 --> 00:37:22,240
'whose names became brands.'
635
00:37:22,240 --> 00:37:25,120
And they bought
this lovely grocery shop.
636
00:37:25,120 --> 00:37:27,520
You know, in the early days,
in John's time,
637
00:37:27,520 --> 00:37:29,240
it would have sold
household products,
638
00:37:29,240 --> 00:37:31,280
but also wines and spirits,
639
00:37:31,280 --> 00:37:34,600
and we are lucky enough to have
this inventory from 1825,
640
00:37:34,600 --> 00:37:36,760
which actually tells us
what John was selling
641
00:37:36,760 --> 00:37:38,120
in the shop at that time.
642
00:37:38,120 --> 00:37:42,080
Back then, all grocers stocked
a range of local single malts,
643
00:37:42,080 --> 00:37:43,640
but they could be...
644
00:37:45,560 --> 00:37:47,000
..a wee bit inconsistent.
645
00:37:47,000 --> 00:37:49,280
For John, that wasn't good enough.
646
00:37:49,280 --> 00:37:51,840
He began blending
different malts together
647
00:37:51,840 --> 00:37:56,040
as a way of offering his customers
a consistent, unique product.
648
00:37:56,040 --> 00:37:57,680
So, if we think about it,
in John's time,
649
00:37:57,680 --> 00:37:59,000
he didn't have a brand,
650
00:37:59,000 --> 00:38:01,240
so customers would just
come into the shop and say,
651
00:38:01,240 --> 00:38:03,560
"I like this type of whisky,"
or, "This type of flavour,"
652
00:38:03,560 --> 00:38:06,560
and he would make something to suit
them, and that's how the whisky...
653
00:38:06,560 --> 00:38:09,000
Wow, like bespoke whisky, really.
Yeah, that's how...
654
00:38:09,000 --> 00:38:10,800
They're tailor-made
for the individual.
655
00:38:10,800 --> 00:38:13,880
..Walker's whiskies started
and it was his son, Alexander,
656
00:38:13,880 --> 00:38:16,280
that created the first brand.
657
00:38:16,280 --> 00:38:19,920
Young Alexander wasn't content with
being Scotland's biggest blender,
658
00:38:19,920 --> 00:38:22,080
not ambitious enough for him,
no, no.
659
00:38:22,080 --> 00:38:25,920
He convinced the ships' captains
of Glasgow to act as agents for him
660
00:38:25,920 --> 00:38:29,480
and drove the whisky bearing
his father's name across the globe.
661
00:38:29,480 --> 00:38:34,000
By 1860, he had developed
the square bottle.
662
00:38:34,000 --> 00:38:37,360
They started exporting their whisky
overseas, and it was all about
663
00:38:37,360 --> 00:38:41,560
getting more in a crate, less
damages, ease of transportation.
664
00:38:41,560 --> 00:38:42,880
200 years later...
665
00:38:42,880 --> 00:38:46,520
'Striding among the midges of Loch
Doine in the Scottish Highlands,
666
00:38:46,520 --> 00:38:51,880
'Carlyle nailed this one-take wonder
at 8pm on the last day of filming.'
667
00:38:51,880 --> 00:38:56,160
So, how long did the company stay
in the family's hands? Um, so...
668
00:38:56,160 --> 00:38:57,520
Until when?
669
00:38:57,520 --> 00:39:01,560
John Walker & Sons became part of
the Distillers Company in the 1920s.
670
00:39:01,560 --> 00:39:04,840
Johnnie Walker and other blending
companies like Buchanan's and
671
00:39:04,840 --> 00:39:06,320
White Horse all became part
672
00:39:06,320 --> 00:39:08,480
of the Distillers Company
around the same time.
673
00:39:08,480 --> 00:39:10,280
But they kept their autonomy,
didn't they?
674
00:39:10,280 --> 00:39:13,000
They certainly did and at that time
we had moved on to the third
675
00:39:13,000 --> 00:39:16,400
generation of Walker's and they
still ran the company, even though
676
00:39:16,400 --> 00:39:19,640
it was part of this bigger
parent company, I guess.
677
00:39:19,640 --> 00:39:22,320
One of the things that I love
about the archive is we actually
678
00:39:22,320 --> 00:39:25,320
have advertising and photographs
from most of those export markets,
679
00:39:25,320 --> 00:39:27,280
so we can not only tell, you know,
680
00:39:27,280 --> 00:39:29,200
the great back story
for Johnnie Walker,
681
00:39:29,200 --> 00:39:33,680
but we then can show how it appears,
you know, in Latin America and Asia
682
00:39:33,680 --> 00:39:38,160
and out there in the world, and what
a huge global success it's become.
683
00:39:39,280 --> 00:39:42,600
From modern-era films
to ornate printed sketches of old,
684
00:39:42,600 --> 00:39:46,280
advertising has been crucial
to the expansion of Scotch,
685
00:39:46,280 --> 00:39:49,280
whether aficionados like it or not.
686
00:39:49,280 --> 00:39:52,640
The malt whisky snobs
seem to see marketing somehow
687
00:39:52,640 --> 00:39:54,760
as the demon
in the world of whisky.
688
00:39:54,760 --> 00:39:57,200
Well, frankly, again,
reality check -
689
00:39:57,200 --> 00:40:00,400
no marketing,
no Scotch whisky industry.
690
00:40:00,400 --> 00:40:03,960
And in the late 19th
and early 20th century,
691
00:40:03,960 --> 00:40:08,360
the big blending houses pioneered
marketing and they brought in
692
00:40:08,360 --> 00:40:12,640
expertise from America in terms of
this new science of advertising,
693
00:40:12,640 --> 00:40:17,320
they used the very best copywriters,
they used the very best artists
694
00:40:17,320 --> 00:40:20,800
and if you visit our archive
and look at some of that material -
695
00:40:20,800 --> 00:40:23,360
you really need to look at it hard
and think about it
696
00:40:23,360 --> 00:40:26,560
to understand
how brilliantly executed it is -
697
00:40:26,560 --> 00:40:29,320
and I think people who do
whisky marketing today
698
00:40:29,320 --> 00:40:33,080
have a lot to learn from the way it
was done 100 years ago, you know.
699
00:40:38,440 --> 00:40:40,320
I mean, if you just think, you know,
700
00:40:40,320 --> 00:40:42,680
of the number of bottles of
Johnnie Walker that are sold
701
00:40:42,680 --> 00:40:44,280
around the world and they've got...
702
00:40:44,280 --> 00:40:47,080
on the bottom of each bottle,
it's got "product of Scotland".
703
00:40:47,080 --> 00:40:50,640
It's in houses almost everywhere
in the world, you know,
704
00:40:50,640 --> 00:40:54,480
and that's what people are going
to think - Scotland, Scotch.
705
00:40:54,480 --> 00:40:58,480
During the bad days of the '70s,
'80s, into the 1990s,
706
00:40:58,480 --> 00:41:01,400
marketing was running whisky
rather than production,
707
00:41:01,400 --> 00:41:04,680
and marketing and production
did not talk to each other.
708
00:41:04,680 --> 00:41:07,400
So, if you think, like,
back in the 1980s,
709
00:41:07,400 --> 00:41:10,560
where, you know,
sales are going like that,
710
00:41:10,560 --> 00:41:13,520
but if you are a marketing director,
are you going to turn around to your
711
00:41:13,520 --> 00:41:16,840
boss and say, "You know, next year,
boss, I'm going to be selling less"?
712
00:41:16,840 --> 00:41:18,480
You'd be out the door.
713
00:41:18,480 --> 00:41:21,760
So everybody was saying,
"Oh, no, we're going to sell more,
things will turn round."
714
00:41:21,760 --> 00:41:24,400
So you suddenly get production
going like that and sales going
715
00:41:24,400 --> 00:41:27,680
like that, which you end up with
Whisky Loch as a result of that.
716
00:41:27,680 --> 00:41:29,600
Marketing is a very easy thing
to have a,
717
00:41:29,600 --> 00:41:32,680
"Ooh, it's bad,
they're doing evil things..."
718
00:41:34,280 --> 00:41:37,560
My job is to get really nice,
amazing whiskies out there
719
00:41:37,560 --> 00:41:41,560
for people to drink,
so I don't think that's a bad thing.
720
00:41:45,480 --> 00:41:48,160
Graphic designer Jules Akel
721
00:41:48,160 --> 00:41:52,480
relocated to Dalwhinnie in
the north of Scotland from London.
722
00:41:52,480 --> 00:41:55,640
He became captivated
by the influence of marketing
723
00:41:55,640 --> 00:41:59,120
upon Scotch whisky
and turned his fascination
724
00:41:59,120 --> 00:42:02,640
into a number of beautifully crafted
distillery books.
725
00:42:05,800 --> 00:42:08,440
In it is to be found
the sunshine and shadow
726
00:42:08,440 --> 00:42:11,200
that chased each other over
the billowy cornfield,
727
00:42:11,200 --> 00:42:13,560
the hum of the bee,
the hope of spring,
728
00:42:13,560 --> 00:42:16,360
the breath of May,
the carol of the lark,
729
00:42:16,360 --> 00:42:19,040
the distant purple heather
in the mountain mist
730
00:42:19,040 --> 00:42:21,640
and the wealth
of autumn's rich content,
731
00:42:21,640 --> 00:42:24,760
all golden with imprisoned light.
732
00:42:24,760 --> 00:42:27,440
Absolutely beautiful, Jules,
isn't it?
733
00:42:27,440 --> 00:42:29,400
It is. And that was Tommy Dewar.
734
00:42:29,400 --> 00:42:32,600
Can you imagine drinking the whisky
after reading that?
DAVID CHUCKLES
735
00:42:32,600 --> 00:42:36,720
But that really creates
an impression about a place
736
00:42:36,720 --> 00:42:39,600
and the story of a...
737
00:42:39,600 --> 00:42:40,840
whisky...
738
00:42:42,680 --> 00:42:45,520
..is not sold without those stories,
739
00:42:45,520 --> 00:42:49,160
those fantastically evocative purple
pastures of prose, aren't they?
740
00:42:49,160 --> 00:42:50,240
Mm-hm.
741
00:42:50,240 --> 00:42:53,680
Cos if we just drink whisky
from a label-less bottle,
742
00:42:53,680 --> 00:42:56,240
without a brand,
it's going to be nice,
743
00:42:56,240 --> 00:42:59,760
but if you know the story behind it,
the characters who built
744
00:42:59,760 --> 00:43:03,720
the distillery and the brand
and its location
745
00:43:03,720 --> 00:43:06,040
on top of a moor or somewhere,
746
00:43:06,040 --> 00:43:08,240
then you go back to the spirit,
don't you?
747
00:43:08,240 --> 00:43:10,560
You do, and it's a much richer
experience, yeah.
748
00:43:10,560 --> 00:43:12,720
Yeah, and you enjoy it
so much more.
749
00:43:12,720 --> 00:43:17,080
Great brands will have
a people story, a place story
750
00:43:17,080 --> 00:43:22,120
and a production story and Scotch is
the best in the world at doing that.
751
00:43:22,120 --> 00:43:24,600
So you'll always have either...
752
00:43:24,600 --> 00:43:28,000
you know, a distillery founder,
do you know what I mean?
753
00:43:28,000 --> 00:43:29,840
There's always...
So you can think of it,
754
00:43:29,840 --> 00:43:32,000
you can name every Scotch brand
and you can tell me
755
00:43:32,000 --> 00:43:34,600
there's distillery founders
or there's, you know,
756
00:43:34,600 --> 00:43:38,200
blender founders,
there's a place, there's a...
757
00:43:38,200 --> 00:43:41,920
this beautiful iconic distillery
or this area of Scotland
758
00:43:41,920 --> 00:43:47,440
full of glens and nooks and crannies
and smugglers and harlots,
759
00:43:47,440 --> 00:43:51,800
and you'll have a production story
and everybody will say, "Well...
760
00:43:51,800 --> 00:43:57,480
"There's up to 40 different
whiskies in this blend!" Or...
761
00:43:57,480 --> 00:44:02,200
"Well, we make it with the widest
copper pot stills in the world."
762
00:44:02,200 --> 00:44:04,560
You know,
so there's always those things.
763
00:44:04,560 --> 00:44:07,480
Those are the bits that actually
make it really interesting,
764
00:44:07,480 --> 00:44:09,640
because every brand
I've ever worked on,
765
00:44:09,640 --> 00:44:12,440
once you find those stories,
you love it.
766
00:44:12,440 --> 00:44:14,800
Sometimes you'll see the message
767
00:44:14,800 --> 00:44:17,040
being very much about heritage,
768
00:44:17,040 --> 00:44:18,920
about the Auld Alliance,
769
00:44:18,920 --> 00:44:20,920
about the clans, about the piper,
770
00:44:20,920 --> 00:44:22,360
about whatever it is,
771
00:44:22,360 --> 00:44:25,240
and sometimes you'll purely
see it as the brand,
772
00:44:25,240 --> 00:44:29,800
and the brand values and what they
stand for in terms of character,
773
00:44:29,800 --> 00:44:32,120
and the kind of markets they go to
774
00:44:32,120 --> 00:44:34,480
and how they're served
as long drinks,
775
00:44:34,480 --> 00:44:37,880
and you're a million miles away
from tartan and heather
776
00:44:37,880 --> 00:44:40,560
and pipes and bagpipes,
and sometimes it's not even
777
00:44:40,560 --> 00:44:42,720
necessarily known
as being Scotch whisky.
778
00:44:42,720 --> 00:44:44,240
It's known as being "that brand".
779
00:44:44,240 --> 00:44:46,360
Brands are personalities,
780
00:44:46,360 --> 00:44:50,880
so if you're a pretentious person,
you might like a pretentious brand.
781
00:44:50,880 --> 00:44:53,600
We feel affinities to certain brands
782
00:44:53,600 --> 00:44:57,200
because they work with us
as persons, don't we? Yes, true.
783
00:45:00,960 --> 00:45:03,480
So here we are in Dalwhinnie,
784
00:45:03,480 --> 00:45:07,200
and the whisky has
a very appealing story.
785
00:45:07,200 --> 00:45:09,800
We're right up in the heather moors,
786
00:45:09,800 --> 00:45:12,680
top of the Grampian mountains,
787
00:45:12,680 --> 00:45:16,520
with all those glorious peaks
of snowy tops,
788
00:45:16,520 --> 00:45:20,200
but if you stop and think
about the Dalwhinnie distillery
789
00:45:20,200 --> 00:45:25,400
and its product, how much of it
actually is of Dalwhinnie?
790
00:45:25,400 --> 00:45:28,720
It gets the water
from down the burn,
791
00:45:28,720 --> 00:45:32,640
the grain is grown miles away,
it's malted miles away,
792
00:45:32,640 --> 00:45:36,840
the wood that the cask...
the whisky's put in the cask,
793
00:45:40,120 --> 00:45:44,680
But it's manufactured here,
put in the casks and then,
794
00:45:44,680 --> 00:45:50,400
well, many of those casks are
left down in the Central Belt,
795
00:45:50,400 --> 00:45:53,960
so what is it of Dalwhinnie, you
see? It's interesting, isn't it?
796
00:45:53,960 --> 00:45:57,760
Mm-hm. But the story is very
powerful and very romantic. It is.
797
00:45:57,760 --> 00:46:00,960
You compare that to, say, a chateau
798
00:46:00,960 --> 00:46:05,120
which makes glorious wine
and cognacs,
799
00:46:05,120 --> 00:46:08,560
they'll have their own land,
their vineyards
800
00:46:08,560 --> 00:46:11,400
and they'll make the wines
there in the chateau,
801
00:46:11,400 --> 00:46:15,200
and then they'll put it
in the casks in their cellars,
802
00:46:15,200 --> 00:46:18,200
and then they'll bottle it there
in the chateau,
803
00:46:18,200 --> 00:46:22,320
so it's much more of
a provenance story, isn't it?
804
00:46:23,760 --> 00:46:26,400
But here, it's more like
an assemblage, isn't it?
805
00:46:26,400 --> 00:46:28,080
Mm-hm. It's interesting, isn't it?
806
00:46:28,080 --> 00:46:30,480
It's a really interesting way
of looking at it, yes.
807
00:46:30,480 --> 00:46:33,360
So... But it's been
a very successful campaign,
808
00:46:33,360 --> 00:46:36,000
the branding with Dalwhinnie.
Yes. Extremely successful.
809
00:46:36,000 --> 00:46:38,960
Well, that's where
design comes along, you see,
810
00:46:38,960 --> 00:46:44,160
and creates this story out of what
it's got and makes it so appealing,
811
00:46:44,160 --> 00:46:46,120
and gives it a provenance.
812
00:46:46,120 --> 00:46:49,640
Scotland is...
It's a tiny, tiny place.
813
00:46:49,640 --> 00:46:52,760
To have such presence from something
814
00:46:52,760 --> 00:46:55,840
that we produce is just phenomenal,
815
00:46:55,840 --> 00:47:00,120
so I think it's grown
beyond being just a drink.
816
00:47:00,120 --> 00:47:03,520
It is something that is about
passion, about love,
817
00:47:03,520 --> 00:47:05,320
about friendship, about family
818
00:47:05,320 --> 00:47:07,440
and everything else
that encompasses that.
819
00:47:07,440 --> 00:47:12,000
Like any image, it's rooted in
some sort of a reality,
820
00:47:12,000 --> 00:47:13,520
but of course it ignores
821
00:47:13,520 --> 00:47:15,400
some of the industrialisation
822
00:47:15,400 --> 00:47:17,680
that's necessary to the industry.
823
00:47:17,680 --> 00:47:21,240
It ignores some of the scale,
and the picture-postcard image
824
00:47:21,240 --> 00:47:25,040
that we might have of the little
distillery nestled in the glens
825
00:47:25,040 --> 00:47:26,920
doesn't necessarily accord with
826
00:47:26,920 --> 00:47:30,120
the reality of a mega warehouse
somewhere in the Lowlands,
827
00:47:30,120 --> 00:47:32,840
but there's enough there for us
to hang onto and believe in.
828
00:47:32,840 --> 00:47:35,560
My marketing director
came in and said,
829
00:47:35,560 --> 00:47:38,120
"I'd like to replace the capsule...
830
00:47:38,120 --> 00:47:40,520
"I'd like to replace the ROPP...
831
00:47:42,000 --> 00:47:46,040
"..with a cork and capsule."
ROPP is a screw-top.
832
00:47:46,040 --> 00:47:49,240
"I'd like to replace that
with a cork and capsule."
833
00:47:49,240 --> 00:47:50,520
And I said, "Why?"
834
00:47:50,520 --> 00:47:54,640
He said, "Because it just...
It's not classy the way it is."
835
00:47:54,640 --> 00:47:58,600
And I had a phone call
from my brother, and he said,
836
00:47:58,600 --> 00:48:06,160
"Why on earth did you change the
screw-top to a cork and capsule?"
837
00:48:06,160 --> 00:48:10,520
And I thought, "Oh, my..."
All my fears are coming.
838
00:48:10,520 --> 00:48:12,840
I said, "Why? What's wrong?"
839
00:48:12,840 --> 00:48:15,920
He said, "Well,
when it was a screw-top,
840
00:48:15,920 --> 00:48:22,240
"I could open one at night, pour
myself a dram before I went to bed.
841
00:48:22,240 --> 00:48:24,840
"Now, when I pull the cork,
it goes..."
842
00:48:24,840 --> 00:48:27,120
HE IMITATES A CORK COMING OUT
843
00:48:27,120 --> 00:48:31,680
And my wife says, "Jack!
Is that you at the Macallan again?"
844
00:48:31,680 --> 00:48:35,320
As advertisers know,
whisky creates desire.
845
00:48:35,320 --> 00:48:38,640
One modern expression of this
is the exponential growth
846
00:48:38,640 --> 00:48:41,880
in people buying Scotch for
collection and investment.
847
00:48:41,880 --> 00:48:45,160
This is McTear's Auction House
in Glasgow
848
00:48:45,160 --> 00:48:48,040
and I've come to bid for
a piece of the action
849
00:48:48,040 --> 00:48:51,440
with two men who make a living
from doing just that.
850
00:48:51,440 --> 00:48:56,080
So, Andy, what is this? Apart from
a display case of gorgeous whiskies.
851
00:48:56,080 --> 00:48:58,680
Well, what we've got here
is some of the...
852
00:48:58,680 --> 00:49:01,200
I guess the oldest
and rarest in the auction,
853
00:49:01,200 --> 00:49:03,840
so there's some
absolutely fantastic...
854
00:49:03,840 --> 00:49:06,120
what we call
the three types of whisky,
855
00:49:06,120 --> 00:49:08,320
so the drinker,
the collector and the investor,
856
00:49:08,320 --> 00:49:11,160
so I'm a drinker, a collector and
investor, but as a collector,
857
00:49:11,160 --> 00:49:13,680
I'll buy kind of weird old stuff
that I just think is cool,
858
00:49:13,680 --> 00:49:16,040
that I just have never seen
or the label's a bit odd.
859
00:49:16,040 --> 00:49:19,040
It might cost £20 at auction. I know
it's never going to go up in value.
860
00:49:19,040 --> 00:49:20,280
I might drink it one day
861
00:49:20,280 --> 00:49:23,320
but it's a collectable, so it's just
a kind of different, weird thing.
862
00:49:23,320 --> 00:49:26,400
What makes a difference?
Is it the rarity of a whisky
863
00:49:26,400 --> 00:49:29,440
or is it the taste
that gives it its premium value?
864
00:49:29,440 --> 00:49:31,880
So, quality is paramount.
Rarity, scarcity,
865
00:49:31,880 --> 00:49:34,960
we're looking for all these things.
Let's take this, age and vintage,
866
00:49:34,960 --> 00:49:36,560
so we're looking at this Macallan
867
00:49:36,560 --> 00:49:38,840
and I'm going to pick
this one out specifically.
868
00:49:38,840 --> 00:49:41,560
My colleague to my left here,
David, actually was responsible
869
00:49:41,560 --> 00:49:44,160
for the liquid and the bottling
of this specific bottle,
870
00:49:44,160 --> 00:49:46,480
so David's signature is on every
single one
871
00:49:46,480 --> 00:49:48,120
of just over 3,000 bottles.
872
00:49:48,120 --> 00:49:49,960
But, David, you weren't
alive in 1946!
873
00:49:49,960 --> 00:49:52,840
I obviously didn't distil
the whisky but I was lucky enough
874
00:49:52,840 --> 00:49:54,960
to work at Macallan during the 1990s
875
00:49:54,960 --> 00:49:58,080
and I was given the kind of task,
I suppose, to select the barrels
876
00:49:58,080 --> 00:50:01,680
that went into the 1946 vintage,
which was a terrific responsibility,
877
00:50:01,680 --> 00:50:03,560
great, great fun doing it,
878
00:50:03,560 --> 00:50:07,680
but the one downside was
having to sign 3,036 certificates.
879
00:50:07,680 --> 00:50:09,560
It took me a whole week to sign...
880
00:50:09,560 --> 00:50:11,720
to sign all the certificates
for these bottles,
881
00:50:11,720 --> 00:50:14,400
but it's a wonderful old smoky
style of Macallan, very unusual...
882
00:50:14,400 --> 00:50:16,920
Because Macallan's not
a smoky whisky.
883
00:50:16,920 --> 00:50:19,080
It typically is not,
but when you look at Macallan
884
00:50:19,080 --> 00:50:22,040
pre and post the Second World War,
it actually was a smoky whisky
885
00:50:22,040 --> 00:50:23,280
when coal was in short supply
886
00:50:23,280 --> 00:50:26,000
and they used peat to actually
dry the malted barley back then.
887
00:50:26,000 --> 00:50:29,200
So why did they change?
Why did they stop using the peat?
888
00:50:29,200 --> 00:50:32,200
Coal became available again
after the Second World War,
889
00:50:32,200 --> 00:50:35,040
so they went back to something
that was much more fuel efficient.
890
00:50:35,040 --> 00:50:37,320
Interesting.
So what would that be worth now?
891
00:50:37,320 --> 00:50:40,920
Anything, £7,000, maybe even £8,000
a bottle. When it first came out...
892
00:50:40,920 --> 00:50:43,360
You're joking! ..in 1998,
893
00:50:43,360 --> 00:50:46,680
I think it was retailing
for about £1,575 a bottle.
894
00:50:46,680 --> 00:50:49,320
Shall we head off and
spend some money? Let's do that.
895
00:50:49,320 --> 00:50:51,440
As long as it's yours. No way, Andy.
896
00:50:51,440 --> 00:50:53,960
That lot is going now,
are you all done at 80?
897
00:50:53,960 --> 00:50:56,960
At £80 on that lot there,
£80 and it's away to...
898
00:50:56,960 --> 00:50:58,920
Buyer number for that is 656.
899
00:51:01,760 --> 00:51:05,520
280, 300 bid. (Is it just
one bottle?) Any advance at £300?
900
00:51:05,520 --> 00:51:08,880
320 at the back there. Any advance
on that 320, can I see 40?
901
00:51:08,880 --> 00:51:10,280
We're at 320 standing.
902
00:51:10,280 --> 00:51:12,600
Any advance at 320? 340 seated.
903
00:51:12,600 --> 00:51:15,040
360 bid, any advance at 360?
904
00:51:15,040 --> 00:51:17,200
380? 360 here standing.
905
00:51:17,200 --> 00:51:19,080
Any advance at 360 again?
906
00:51:19,080 --> 00:51:22,360
Are you all done at 360?
Last chance at 360...
907
00:51:22,360 --> 00:51:24,680
GAVEL STRIKES
360, that is 36606.
908
00:51:24,680 --> 00:51:26,840
Thank you. That's away at 360...
909
00:51:26,840 --> 00:51:28,800
So will you drink that
or hold on to it?
910
00:51:28,800 --> 00:51:31,040
I don't know.
Let's find out afterwards.
911
00:51:31,040 --> 00:51:32,560
Depends how thirsty we get.
912
00:51:33,960 --> 00:51:35,640
We open at 100...
913
00:51:35,640 --> 00:51:38,720
'After Andy's success,
it was my turn to bid.
914
00:51:38,720 --> 00:51:41,680
'Competition comes
not just from those in the room, but
915
00:51:41,680 --> 00:51:45,120
'from remote online and telephone
bidders across the planet.'
916
00:51:45,120 --> 00:51:48,960
Can I see 90 again? We're at £80 in
the book here. Any advance at 80?
917
00:51:48,960 --> 00:51:51,640
Are you all done now? Any advance
at £80 on that lot there?
918
00:51:51,640 --> 00:51:54,240
90 with you, sir.
Any advance at 90 way at the back?
919
00:51:54,240 --> 00:51:55,880
Any advance at 90? Are you all done?
920
00:51:55,880 --> 00:51:59,240
At £90 for that lot, that is going
at 90. Are you all done at 90?
921
00:51:59,240 --> 00:52:02,080
GAVEL STRIKES
£90, thank you. Yay!
922
00:52:03,760 --> 00:52:05,800
Result. Well done.
923
00:52:09,960 --> 00:52:12,000
After a morning's hard bidding,
924
00:52:12,000 --> 00:52:15,600
Andy, David and I went for lunch
to discuss the finer details of
925
00:52:15,600 --> 00:52:19,480
whisky valuation,
collection and investment.
926
00:52:19,480 --> 00:52:22,840
Now, do you buy and sell
these whiskies for yourselves
927
00:52:22,840 --> 00:52:26,160
or for other people? Well, we act
as the catalyst in the middle,
928
00:52:26,160 --> 00:52:28,880
so we've got a number of buyers
that are looking for specific
929
00:52:28,880 --> 00:52:32,240
bottles or collections, and we have
a number of sellers at any one time,
930
00:52:32,240 --> 00:52:35,280
so we're really just a matchmaker,
so we bring the two parties together
931
00:52:35,280 --> 00:52:38,560
so certain people might be looking
for a collection of rare Macallan
932
00:52:38,560 --> 00:52:41,200
or a collection of
the rare malts from Diageo,
933
00:52:41,200 --> 00:52:43,640
or maybe they're peat freaks
and they love Ardbeg
934
00:52:43,640 --> 00:52:46,000
and want every single bottle
of Ardbeg on the planet,
935
00:52:46,000 --> 00:52:49,160
so we help kind of plug
those gaps that they might have
in their own collection,
936
00:52:49,160 --> 00:52:51,960
and sometimes, which is really
interesting from our point of view,
937
00:52:51,960 --> 00:52:55,480
in recent times, people have come
to us as professional investors
938
00:52:55,480 --> 00:52:57,840
rather than just kind of
amateur collectors,
939
00:52:57,840 --> 00:52:59,960
and that something
that's really changed,
940
00:52:59,960 --> 00:53:02,520
probably in the last two,
three, four years maximum,
941
00:53:02,520 --> 00:53:04,240
where people can see value,
942
00:53:04,240 --> 00:53:07,000
they've maybe done a little bit
of tracking of their own
943
00:53:07,000 --> 00:53:10,960
and they understand that we've got
this incredible database, 146...
944
00:53:10,960 --> 00:53:14,840
Thousand. ..pieces of data now,
covering 22,000 different bottles,
945
00:53:14,840 --> 00:53:17,600
that give us a really powerful...
That's phenomenal.
946
00:53:17,600 --> 00:53:21,200
..piece of insight that
obviously people use for
a number of different reasons.
947
00:53:21,200 --> 00:53:23,680
Now, David, who are these
individuals that you work
948
00:53:23,680 --> 00:53:26,680
on behalf of? I know that you can't
be indiscreet... Of course.
949
00:53:26,680 --> 00:53:28,920
But obviously,
A - they have money. Yes.
950
00:53:28,920 --> 00:53:30,920
They have money to spend
and money to burn.
951
00:53:30,920 --> 00:53:34,160
Yes, and most people might expect
that it's all Asian money or
952
00:53:34,160 --> 00:53:36,240
Chinese money. That's not the case.
953
00:53:36,240 --> 00:53:38,640
We've got clients from
North America, from Canada,
954
00:53:38,640 --> 00:53:41,120
from Europe, from the UK, Hong Kong,
955
00:53:41,120 --> 00:53:44,560
Taiwan, Singapore, I mean,
it really is quite global
956
00:53:44,560 --> 00:53:48,400
and we're kind of surprised
at where we get calls from.
957
00:53:48,400 --> 00:53:52,120
What percentage of your clients
buy whisky purely for investment
958
00:53:52,120 --> 00:53:55,320
and which of them buy it purely
because they just love whisky?
959
00:53:55,320 --> 00:53:57,520
The vast majority of the...
960
00:53:57,520 --> 00:54:01,280
kind of the big old bottles
that we are moving at the moment
961
00:54:01,280 --> 00:54:03,600
are for collecting and investing.
962
00:54:03,600 --> 00:54:07,480
However, we recently sold
a collection for
963
00:54:07,480 --> 00:54:09,760
just under half a million pounds
964
00:54:09,760 --> 00:54:12,520
to somebody who opened it
965
00:54:12,520 --> 00:54:16,640
and is probably drinking it
as we are sat here now.
966
00:54:16,640 --> 00:54:19,600
They opened and are drinking
a half-million-pound collection
967
00:54:19,600 --> 00:54:22,760
of whisky? Absolutely. How many
bottles would be involved? 50, 50...
968
00:54:22,760 --> 00:54:25,440
50 bottles exactly.
Now, this is the interesting thing.
969
00:54:25,440 --> 00:54:29,240
We did this, we did a similar
collection or the same collection
970
00:54:29,240 --> 00:54:32,440
three or four years ago
to a different buyer
971
00:54:32,440 --> 00:54:36,160
and we sold it
for slightly less than that,
972
00:54:36,160 --> 00:54:39,560
and this buyer again opened
this collection of 50 bottles
973
00:54:39,560 --> 00:54:42,680
and drank it with his mates
playing snooker,
974
00:54:42,680 --> 00:54:47,680
so the answer to the question,
does everybody buy for collecting
and investing? Absolutely not.
975
00:54:47,680 --> 00:54:49,800
That is really good news, gents,
976
00:54:49,800 --> 00:54:52,640
because I think whisky is for
drinking and for enjoying.
977
00:54:52,640 --> 00:54:55,640
We couldn't agree more. It's one of
the most delicious nectars available
978
00:54:55,640 --> 00:54:58,160
in the history of humankind.
Couldn't agree with you more.
979
00:54:58,160 --> 00:55:00,680
And to buy a bottle,
or a collection of bottles,
980
00:55:00,680 --> 00:55:03,400
purely for investment purposes,
to me, is immoral.
981
00:55:03,400 --> 00:55:06,040
Yeah, do you know what...
I know it must be, you know...
982
00:55:06,040 --> 00:55:09,720
You're both on a cleft stick because
you make a living from it. Indeed.
983
00:55:09,720 --> 00:55:12,760
Yeah. It's kind of half-and-half,
and we've grown up, both of us,
984
00:55:12,760 --> 00:55:16,040
drinking whisky as well as
both of us collect whisky, and both
985
00:55:16,040 --> 00:55:19,640
of us invest in whisky at the same
time, so three distinct areas
986
00:55:19,640 --> 00:55:23,000
that we focus on, which is
drinking, collecting and investing.
987
00:55:35,480 --> 00:55:40,360
The one thing that I guess worries
me particularly is this idea
988
00:55:40,360 --> 00:55:43,520
that's taken hold recently
that you can "invest" in whisky,
989
00:55:43,520 --> 00:55:45,360
that whisky is some kind of
990
00:55:45,360 --> 00:55:47,680
an alternative to the stock market,
991
00:55:47,680 --> 00:55:49,480
some kind of an alternative
992
00:55:49,480 --> 00:55:52,280
to pork belly futures
or whatever it might be.
993
00:55:52,280 --> 00:55:54,680
Now, I have a very firm
view on this.
994
00:55:54,680 --> 00:55:58,440
Whisky was made to be drunk
and to be enjoyed.
995
00:55:58,440 --> 00:56:03,640
Whisky has no meaning until
the moment of its consumption.
996
00:56:03,640 --> 00:56:10,440
It is just a glass bottle of
cold tea until its destruction,
997
00:56:10,440 --> 00:56:15,880
and only in its consumption does it
achieve meaning and worth and value.
998
00:56:20,000 --> 00:56:23,760
So, chaps, this is
the bottle of Rosebank 12-year-old
999
00:56:23,760 --> 00:56:27,440
that I bid so successfully for.
Well done. Congratulations.
1000
00:56:27,440 --> 00:56:30,480
But, Andy, you've got a treat
for me in that glass, haven't you?
1001
00:56:30,480 --> 00:56:33,560
Oh, this is... Because you've popped
your cherry at auction,
1002
00:56:33,560 --> 00:56:35,120
at a whisky auction,
1003
00:56:35,120 --> 00:56:37,680
we thought we'd celebrate
with something special,
1004
00:56:37,680 --> 00:56:40,680
so we brought you
some Mortlach from 1936... Mortlach!
1005
00:56:40,680 --> 00:56:43,880
..to celebrate with.
Please accept that on Davy and I.
1006
00:56:46,320 --> 00:56:48,560
Oh, it's got a wonderful nose!
1007
00:56:49,800 --> 00:56:51,840
Slainte. Slainte mhath.
1008
00:56:51,840 --> 00:56:54,920
'The pursuit of Scotch
is full of surprises.
1009
00:56:54,920 --> 00:57:00,320
'I never expected to
be drinking a 1936 Mortlach
in a Glasgow car park.'
1010
00:57:00,320 --> 00:57:02,200
How much would this cost a bottle?
1011
00:57:02,200 --> 00:57:04,920
£3,500 at the moment
if you buy it retail.
1012
00:57:04,920 --> 00:57:07,160
Three-and-a-half grand? Yeah, yeah.
1013
00:57:07,160 --> 00:57:09,720
You haven't poured me
a big enough dram.
1014
00:57:09,720 --> 00:57:11,000
THEY LAUGH
1015
00:57:11,000 --> 00:57:13,280
You've got the last.
That's it. Run out!
1016
00:57:18,440 --> 00:57:22,440
The first whisky experience
that I - vaguely - remember
1017
00:57:22,440 --> 00:57:27,000
was in Studland Beach in England.
1018
00:57:27,000 --> 00:57:29,880
I was over working in a pub
for the summer
1019
00:57:29,880 --> 00:57:33,320
and I decided to join some of
my new friends for a night out.
1020
00:57:33,320 --> 00:57:35,240
I was about 18 and let's just say
1021
00:57:35,240 --> 00:57:39,240
I decided after that night that
I would never drink whisky again.
1022
00:57:39,240 --> 00:57:42,240
I remember the first one
that I tasted and hated
1023
00:57:42,240 --> 00:57:45,080
when I was very young was
on a camping trip with my dad.
1024
00:57:45,080 --> 00:57:48,080
I think we were in Jedburgh and
he had brought a hip flask of
1025
00:57:48,080 --> 00:57:51,360
Highland Park, which is one of his
favourite whiskies, along with him,
1026
00:57:51,360 --> 00:57:53,920
and I took a sip of it and
just thought it was disgusting.
1027
00:57:53,920 --> 00:57:56,600
It was a Lagavulin
1028
00:57:56,600 --> 00:58:01,280
and I assumed that all whisky
was really smoky and peaty,
1029
00:58:01,280 --> 00:58:04,720
and I absolutely loved it.
I completely fell in love with it.
1030
00:58:04,720 --> 00:58:07,560
It was actually the point
that changed my life.
1031
00:58:12,440 --> 00:58:16,160
Next time, I'll be visiting
a spellbinding whisky collection,
1032
00:58:16,160 --> 00:58:19,000
then assessing the rise
of craft distilleries
1033
00:58:19,000 --> 00:58:22,240
and the future of Scotch,
but most importantly,
1034
00:58:22,240 --> 00:58:25,640
I'm heading to Norfolk, Sweden,
Japan and Australia
1035
00:58:25,640 --> 00:58:27,480
to meet our whisky rivals.
92279
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