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Would you like to inspect the original subtitles? These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:01,400 --> 00:00:03,860 This time I'm in the Caucasus, 2 00:00:04,060 --> 00:00:06,980 a vital crossroads on the Silk Road... 3 00:00:07,140 --> 00:00:09,540 It's a slightly nerve-wracking climb. 4 00:00:09,740 --> 00:00:13,820 ..risking life and limb on the hunt for one of its deadliest weapons... 5 00:00:15,180 --> 00:00:17,100 That's an enormous dog. 6 00:00:17,300 --> 00:00:21,060 ..discovering hidden cities beneath bloody battlefields... 7 00:00:21,220 --> 00:00:23,540 (EXCLAIMS) Wow. 8 00:00:23,700 --> 00:00:25,460 ..and uncovering the secret 9 00:00:25,660 --> 00:00:29,260 that destroyed the greatest trade route in human history. 10 00:00:29,420 --> 00:00:31,140 That's a lot of pigeon poo. 11 00:00:36,380 --> 00:00:39,340 I'm David Baddiel. I'm on the adventure of a lifetime... 12 00:00:39,500 --> 00:00:40,940 Whoa! (LAUGHS) 13 00:00:41,140 --> 00:00:44,620 ..retracing the steps of merchants, warriors and pilgrims 14 00:00:44,820 --> 00:00:47,860 along the largest trade route the world has ever known, 15 00:00:48,020 --> 00:00:49,140 the Silk Road. 16 00:00:49,300 --> 00:00:50,500 As a writer and comedian, 17 00:00:50,700 --> 00:00:53,500 I'm fascinated by people and their stories... 18 00:00:53,660 --> 00:00:54,580 These are amazing. 19 00:00:54,820 --> 00:00:58,900 ..and the Silk Road is one of the greatest human stories of them all. 20 00:00:59,060 --> 00:01:00,460 (ALL CHEER) 21 00:01:00,620 --> 00:01:02,260 It's got everything - 22 00:01:02,420 --> 00:01:04,500 religion, culture... 23 00:01:04,660 --> 00:01:05,660 How do I look? 24 00:01:05,820 --> 00:01:07,620 ..music, war. 25 00:01:09,620 --> 00:01:12,540 Now I want to live that story. 26 00:01:12,700 --> 00:01:14,500 I was born to this. 27 00:01:14,660 --> 00:01:16,380 It will push me to my limits. 28 00:01:16,580 --> 00:01:18,540 Whoa, whoa, whoa. (DOG BARKS) 29 00:01:18,700 --> 00:01:20,460 We have got a bit of a situation. 30 00:01:20,620 --> 00:01:22,300 There've been reports of landslides. 31 00:01:23,820 --> 00:01:26,780 This monumental network stretches across 32 00:01:26,980 --> 00:01:29,460 some of the toughest terrain on Earth. 33 00:01:29,620 --> 00:01:31,780 It's like a sadistic army exercise. 34 00:01:32,940 --> 00:01:36,740 The Silk Road witnessed the rise and fall of empires, 35 00:01:36,940 --> 00:01:39,860 and shaped the modern world as we know it. 36 00:01:55,060 --> 00:01:56,660 I'm in Georgia, 37 00:01:56,860 --> 00:02:00,380 which has been described by historians as the edge of empires. 38 00:02:00,540 --> 00:02:04,100 China is about 8,000km back that way. 39 00:02:04,260 --> 00:02:06,940 That's where it all began, and now 40 00:02:07,100 --> 00:02:10,540 2,000km that way lies home. 41 00:02:10,700 --> 00:02:14,500 Well, not North London, but Europe, 42 00:02:14,700 --> 00:02:17,900 Istanbul, and the end of the Silk Road. 43 00:02:21,540 --> 00:02:23,940 The Silk Road's network of interconnected routes 44 00:02:24,140 --> 00:02:26,580 snaked through the wilds of Central Asia... 45 00:02:28,300 --> 00:02:32,460 ..but its success attracted the attention of two giant empires, 46 00:02:32,620 --> 00:02:34,260 who vied for its control... 47 00:02:35,540 --> 00:02:38,820 ..the Roman in the west, and the Persian in the east... 48 00:02:40,420 --> 00:02:42,580 ..and in the middle was Georgia. 49 00:02:46,620 --> 00:02:49,260 One of the things about Georgia is throughout its history, 50 00:02:49,420 --> 00:02:50,780 it's been invaded. 51 00:02:50,980 --> 00:02:53,180 Georgia, in order to protect its trade, 52 00:02:53,380 --> 00:02:58,860 built a lot of fortified castles, and that's one of them there... 53 00:03:00,020 --> 00:03:03,180 ..and now I'm gonna try and climb up to the top of that. 54 00:03:04,700 --> 00:03:07,380 This is Khornabuji Castle. 55 00:03:07,580 --> 00:03:12,180 It's just one of over 500 fortresses built in this region. 56 00:03:12,340 --> 00:03:15,100 OK, this bit's a bit tricky. 57 00:03:17,100 --> 00:03:20,380 The castle was a crucial link in Georgia's defences 58 00:03:20,580 --> 00:03:22,940 against the Roman and Persian superpowers 59 00:03:23,140 --> 00:03:26,660 as they battled to control trade in the 7th century. 60 00:03:28,340 --> 00:03:31,660 To find out why it was so important, I need to get to the top. 61 00:03:32,940 --> 00:03:36,620 It's a slightly nerve-wracking climb, but the view does make it worth it. 62 00:03:39,060 --> 00:03:41,380 The castle's strength didn't come from its walls, 63 00:03:41,540 --> 00:03:44,060 but rather its sky-scraping position. 64 00:03:49,380 --> 00:03:50,460 I made it. 65 00:03:51,620 --> 00:03:53,940 Not the easiest thing I've ever done in my life... 66 00:03:55,180 --> 00:03:58,980 ..but this, this was the land bridge 67 00:03:59,140 --> 00:04:00,940 between East and West. 68 00:04:04,660 --> 00:04:08,460 Towering an incredible half a kilometre over surrounding lowlands, 69 00:04:08,660 --> 00:04:11,940 the castle's watchmen could see for 40km 70 00:04:12,140 --> 00:04:14,860 along the disputed stretch of the Silk Road. 71 00:04:17,580 --> 00:04:21,100 They could spot an attacking army a day's march off - 72 00:04:21,260 --> 00:04:23,700 plenty of time to organise defences. 73 00:04:26,620 --> 00:04:28,820 That's why it was so valuable... 74 00:04:30,020 --> 00:04:31,460 ..why it was so fought after. 75 00:04:32,780 --> 00:04:35,860 Prime strategic locations made castles like these 76 00:04:36,020 --> 00:04:37,540 highly sought-after prizes 77 00:04:37,740 --> 00:04:39,940 in the battle for Georgia and the Silk Road... 78 00:04:44,460 --> 00:04:46,140 ..but it wasn't just the vantage point 79 00:04:46,340 --> 00:04:48,460 the invading Persian and Roman armies wanted. 80 00:04:49,660 --> 00:04:52,980 These fertile plains of the battlefield held a secret. 81 00:04:54,420 --> 00:04:57,980 Trade along the Silk Road, of course, is all about imports and exports, 82 00:04:58,180 --> 00:05:02,300 and Georgia had a particular export that it was keen to protect. 83 00:05:02,500 --> 00:05:04,340 I'm gonna go and have a look at that now, 84 00:05:04,540 --> 00:05:08,500 and I'm looking forward to seeing this particular export 85 00:05:08,660 --> 00:05:10,500 because I need a drink. 86 00:05:14,900 --> 00:05:17,060 Long before even Silk Road times, 87 00:05:17,260 --> 00:05:20,500 the rich soils of this vital land bridge proved ideal 88 00:05:20,660 --> 00:05:23,060 for making a highly-prized commodity, 89 00:05:23,220 --> 00:05:24,420 wine. 90 00:05:27,260 --> 00:05:30,460 American John Wurdeman married into a Georgian family 91 00:05:30,660 --> 00:05:33,500 and bought this ancient vineyard in 2007. 92 00:05:34,740 --> 00:05:37,060 He's continuing the old wine-making tradition 93 00:05:37,220 --> 00:05:39,660 in the land where it all began. 94 00:05:39,860 --> 00:05:43,100 John, since I've been in Georgia, I've seen a slogan a couple of times. 95 00:05:43,300 --> 00:05:46,540 It says, 'Georgia, the cradle of wine.' Right. 96 00:05:46,700 --> 00:05:49,100 Is that true? Was wine born here? 97 00:05:49,300 --> 00:05:52,620 There's been ancient evidence of wine-making in Mesopotamia, 98 00:05:52,820 --> 00:05:56,060 in Egypt, in Iran, but nothing so old. 99 00:05:56,220 --> 00:05:58,780 There's been an unbroken tradition 100 00:05:58,980 --> 00:06:02,460 for over 6,000 years of making wine in Georgia. 101 00:06:03,900 --> 00:06:05,540 It was here in these plains 102 00:06:05,740 --> 00:06:08,900 that wild grapes were first domesticated into a crop... 103 00:06:10,260 --> 00:06:13,660 ..and not only that, soon after, the Georgians invented the technique 104 00:06:13,820 --> 00:06:15,900 of fermenting grapes into wine. 105 00:06:18,180 --> 00:06:22,820 The Silk Road carried these skills east, reaching as far as China, 106 00:06:23,020 --> 00:06:26,380 but in the birthplace of wine, the battle for trade raged on. 107 00:06:27,620 --> 00:06:30,900 Right now, the vineyard we're in, it was a battlefield. 108 00:06:31,100 --> 00:06:34,860 Georgians believe that the best fertiliser for a vineyard 109 00:06:35,020 --> 00:06:38,140 was the blood, sweat, prayers, 110 00:06:38,340 --> 00:06:42,140 and remains of their ancestors that fought to keep this country whole, 111 00:06:42,380 --> 00:06:45,820 and that all of the invading, the Persians, the Arabs, the Mongols, 112 00:06:45,980 --> 00:06:47,900 are contributing to the vineyard. 113 00:06:49,220 --> 00:06:51,340 Using the battlefield's fertile soils, 114 00:06:51,540 --> 00:06:54,700 John is recreating the wines of the old Silk Road. 115 00:06:55,860 --> 00:06:57,620 Here, we don't make wine, we raise wine, 116 00:06:57,780 --> 00:06:59,220 just like we raise our children. 117 00:06:59,380 --> 00:07:00,620 Give birth to wine. Yes. 118 00:07:00,820 --> 00:07:03,340 Well, the earth gives birth and we're just custodians... 119 00:07:03,500 --> 00:07:04,820 I see, you're the midwives. 120 00:07:06,260 --> 00:07:09,500 John's invited me into the construction of his new cellar 121 00:07:09,700 --> 00:07:12,180 to reveal how the first wines were made. 122 00:07:13,540 --> 00:07:16,540 This is how they sit in the earth? Yeah, this is how they sit, 123 00:07:16,740 --> 00:07:19,860 and this will be the floor of the winery over here. 124 00:07:20,060 --> 00:07:23,180 The wine is made in giant clay pots called kvevri. 125 00:07:24,420 --> 00:07:26,500 They're buried up to their necks in the ground 126 00:07:26,700 --> 00:07:28,940 before crushed grapes are poured inside. 127 00:07:30,180 --> 00:07:33,540 The pot is then covered and left to ferment and mature. 128 00:07:34,820 --> 00:07:36,180 So, here's a wine-maker. 129 00:07:36,380 --> 00:07:39,900 The opening of a kvevri is a big deal in Georgia... 130 00:07:40,060 --> 00:07:41,220 (SPEAKS LOCAL LANGUAGE) 131 00:07:41,420 --> 00:07:44,860 ..and John has given me the great privilege of taking part today. 132 00:07:48,500 --> 00:07:51,300 John filled this kvevri eight years ago. 133 00:07:51,500 --> 00:07:54,740 None of us know what state the wine is in now. 134 00:07:54,900 --> 00:07:57,460 Oh, my God. Yeah, it's really full. 135 00:07:57,660 --> 00:08:00,900 Look at that, that's eight years it's been in there. 136 00:08:01,100 --> 00:08:04,020 Hopefully, it's not the world's biggest bottle of vinegar. 137 00:08:05,540 --> 00:08:07,100 (SPEAKS LOCAL LANGUAGE) 138 00:08:14,140 --> 00:08:15,220 It's fantastic. 139 00:08:15,380 --> 00:08:16,700 Yeah, it's incredible. 140 00:08:18,180 --> 00:08:21,260 Like so many Silk Road wine merchants before them, 141 00:08:21,460 --> 00:08:24,580 John and his team are understandably relieved. 142 00:08:24,780 --> 00:08:27,300 It is fantastic. Tastes absolutely fantastic. 143 00:08:27,460 --> 00:08:28,620 Delicious. 144 00:08:30,620 --> 00:08:33,020 Before I leave the birthplace of wine, 145 00:08:33,220 --> 00:08:36,460 John has invited me to a very special celebration 146 00:08:36,660 --> 00:08:39,780 that traces its origins back to the times of the Silk Road. 147 00:08:41,700 --> 00:08:43,660 This is a supra. 148 00:08:43,820 --> 00:08:45,620 Literally meaning 'tablecloth', 149 00:08:45,820 --> 00:08:48,900 it's a village gathering held to toast travellers, 150 00:08:49,140 --> 00:08:52,900 and would have been a highlight for many a weary trader arriving into town. 151 00:08:54,180 --> 00:08:56,100 Wow. Look at this. Amazing. 152 00:08:57,260 --> 00:08:59,620 The most important person is the toastmaster. 153 00:09:00,780 --> 00:09:04,060 The first toast I'd like to drink for being grateful. 154 00:09:05,300 --> 00:09:09,380 It's customary for a supra to have 20 or more toasts. 155 00:09:09,540 --> 00:09:10,660 For friendship. 156 00:09:10,820 --> 00:09:12,100 For peace. Peace. 157 00:09:12,260 --> 00:09:13,940 May our families be strong. 158 00:09:14,100 --> 00:09:15,300 For love. 159 00:09:17,380 --> 00:09:19,420 It's said that the average Georgian 160 00:09:19,620 --> 00:09:22,420 will spend several hours a week attending these feasts. 161 00:09:23,660 --> 00:09:25,540 Sometimes the big ones go on for days. 162 00:09:26,820 --> 00:09:29,500 I'm beginning to worry that my carefully-planned schedule 163 00:09:29,700 --> 00:09:32,020 along the Silk Road may have hit a delay. 164 00:09:35,220 --> 00:09:37,780 After several toasts and glasses of wine, 165 00:09:37,980 --> 00:09:40,620 I'm ready to join in with the supra tradition. 166 00:09:40,820 --> 00:09:43,780 There is something that has brought me here and which, in fact, 167 00:09:43,980 --> 00:09:48,100 has brought the wines of Georgia to and from here and all over the world, 168 00:09:48,300 --> 00:09:51,340 and it is the reason that I'm here, and it is the Silk Road, 169 00:09:51,540 --> 00:09:53,660 and so I thought perhaps we should celebrate it 170 00:09:53,860 --> 00:09:55,780 because it's the reason why we're all here. 171 00:09:55,940 --> 00:09:57,700 So I give you the Silk Road. 172 00:09:57,900 --> 00:10:00,820 The Silk Road. (TOASTS IN LOCAL LANGUAGE) 173 00:10:02,700 --> 00:10:06,740 But wine isn't the only thing Georgia exported along the Silk Road. 174 00:10:06,900 --> 00:10:08,820 (ALL SINGING) 175 00:10:13,980 --> 00:10:16,500 As Christianity spread along the trade route, 176 00:10:16,700 --> 00:10:19,580 this Georgian style of singing, called polyphony, 177 00:10:19,740 --> 00:10:22,020 was assimilated into its ceremonies, 178 00:10:22,220 --> 00:10:25,820 and it's believed this is how Christian hymns may have originated. 179 00:10:30,900 --> 00:10:32,180 Amazing. 180 00:10:34,500 --> 00:10:37,860 Let's wish David happy, healthy journeys, 181 00:10:38,020 --> 00:10:40,020 full of adventure and spice. 182 00:10:40,180 --> 00:10:41,740 Onwards and forwards. Thank you. 183 00:10:41,940 --> 00:10:43,660 Great journeys. Thank you very much. 184 00:10:43,820 --> 00:10:45,100 (ALL TOASTING) 185 00:10:46,980 --> 00:10:50,300 I hope I won't regret the merriment, because tomorrow 186 00:10:50,460 --> 00:10:52,180 I'm going to be heading off-road 187 00:10:52,380 --> 00:10:55,020 on the trail of yet more Silk Road secrets. 188 00:11:05,320 --> 00:11:07,800 I'm David Baddiel, and I'm in Georgia. 189 00:11:09,520 --> 00:11:12,200 So far, I've discovered that this ancient battlefield 190 00:11:12,400 --> 00:11:15,920 was the birthplace of one of the Silk Road's greatest exports, 191 00:11:16,080 --> 00:11:17,200 wine. 192 00:11:18,960 --> 00:11:21,680 Right now, the vineyard we're in, it was a battlefield. 193 00:11:22,920 --> 00:11:26,800 Now my long journey west takes me through the Caucasus Mountains. 194 00:11:30,280 --> 00:11:32,000 Since we've come up into the mountains 195 00:11:32,200 --> 00:11:35,760 it's started raining quite heavily. There've been reports of landslides, 196 00:11:35,960 --> 00:11:38,800 rock falls and mud avalanches and stuff, 197 00:11:39,000 --> 00:11:43,120 so the actual pass across the mountains may be blocked. 198 00:11:43,320 --> 00:11:45,600 I don't know, but we're gonna give it a go anyway. 199 00:11:46,800 --> 00:11:48,200 Back in Silk Road times, 200 00:11:48,400 --> 00:11:52,000 traders needed to avoid the warring Roman and Persian empires... 201 00:11:53,360 --> 00:11:56,320 ..so if they wanted to reach Europe and its markets, 202 00:11:56,480 --> 00:11:58,200 it meant having to take their chances 203 00:11:58,400 --> 00:12:00,280 in the treacherous mountain terrain... 204 00:12:01,880 --> 00:12:04,200 ..and that's where I'm heading now. 205 00:12:05,760 --> 00:12:08,840 This route through the mountains may have been used for centuries, 206 00:12:09,000 --> 00:12:10,920 but that hasn't dulled its danger. 207 00:12:11,120 --> 00:12:14,400 This is the Silk Road at its least silky. 208 00:12:17,480 --> 00:12:19,240 I think one has to ask, philosophically, 209 00:12:19,400 --> 00:12:21,960 when is a road no longer a road? 210 00:12:22,160 --> 00:12:24,520 And I think we may have reached that point now. 211 00:12:24,680 --> 00:12:25,800 (CAR HONKS) 212 00:12:27,240 --> 00:12:28,920 In the past 12 months alone, 213 00:12:29,120 --> 00:12:31,720 eight people have been killed here in landslides... 214 00:12:33,120 --> 00:12:35,880 ..but hopefully that's not gonna stop me in the search 215 00:12:36,040 --> 00:12:38,160 for my next Silk Road revelation. 216 00:12:40,440 --> 00:12:43,280 One of the things that was very important along the Silk Road 217 00:12:43,480 --> 00:12:45,720 and was actually a very valuable commodity 218 00:12:45,880 --> 00:12:47,720 was dogs, it turns out, 219 00:12:47,920 --> 00:12:50,720 because you needed something to protect yourself with 220 00:12:50,880 --> 00:12:52,240 along the Silk Road, 221 00:12:52,440 --> 00:12:55,240 and dogs were very useful for protection 222 00:12:55,440 --> 00:12:59,120 both against thieves and against wolves and bears, 223 00:12:59,320 --> 00:13:01,160 and there was actually a particular dog 224 00:13:01,360 --> 00:13:03,640 that came from this area called the Alaunt, 225 00:13:03,840 --> 00:13:07,640 which was the great war dog of the nomadic tribes. 226 00:13:07,880 --> 00:13:11,520 'He attacks by running at the intruder and knocking them to the floor 227 00:13:11,720 --> 00:13:15,160 before attacking them when they are down.' OK? 228 00:13:15,400 --> 00:13:19,120 'And he knows where the most vulnerable part of the victim's body is, 229 00:13:19,280 --> 00:13:20,680 and will aim for there.' 230 00:13:21,920 --> 00:13:24,080 Although the ancient Alaunt is extinct, 231 00:13:24,280 --> 00:13:27,520 I've heard their descendants can still be found in remote farms 232 00:13:27,720 --> 00:13:30,440 that depend on their protective instincts, 233 00:13:30,640 --> 00:13:34,520 but with Mother Nature against us, the chances of finding one look slim. 234 00:13:35,800 --> 00:13:41,080 I'm, sort of, 85% certain that we're either going to get stuck... 235 00:13:42,720 --> 00:13:47,480 ..mauled by a dog or a bear, or just fall off the edge and die, 236 00:13:47,680 --> 00:13:51,200 but it is almost worth it for the incredible landscape 237 00:13:51,360 --> 00:13:52,800 in this part of Georgia. 238 00:14:06,160 --> 00:14:08,920 But then, after hours of searching, 239 00:14:09,120 --> 00:14:13,720 my local guide Nick assures me he can hear something in a nearby farm. 240 00:14:13,880 --> 00:14:14,960 (DOG BARKING) 241 00:14:15,160 --> 00:14:18,320 I mentally wave goodbye to my vulnerable parts. 242 00:14:18,480 --> 00:14:20,360 (CHUCKLES) I'm terrified. 243 00:14:27,120 --> 00:14:29,840 OK, that's an enormous dog. 244 00:14:31,800 --> 00:14:33,080 Hello. 245 00:14:34,480 --> 00:14:36,280 Is it chained up? MAN: Yeah. 246 00:14:36,440 --> 00:14:37,680 Hello. Erm... 247 00:14:37,840 --> 00:14:39,320 Can I ask you about your dog? 248 00:14:39,480 --> 00:14:41,440 Is it a Caucasus shepherd? 249 00:14:41,600 --> 00:14:43,520 (SPEAKS OWN LANGUAGE) 250 00:14:49,520 --> 00:14:51,440 Yeah, it's a pure Caucasian shepherd, yeah. 251 00:14:51,600 --> 00:14:53,560 It looks very dangerous. Is it...? 252 00:14:53,720 --> 00:14:55,520 What do you use the dog for? 253 00:15:04,360 --> 00:15:07,920 These dogs can weigh an amazing 90kg... 254 00:15:09,120 --> 00:15:11,520 ..and it looks to me like they are the descendants 255 00:15:11,680 --> 00:15:13,000 of the ancient war dogs 256 00:15:13,200 --> 00:15:15,080 brought to battle by kings and emperors 257 00:15:15,280 --> 00:15:17,880 fighting for control of the Silk Road, 258 00:15:18,040 --> 00:15:19,520 and there's another one here. 259 00:15:20,800 --> 00:15:24,960 That one is very, very aggressive. This one is more aggressive. 260 00:15:25,120 --> 00:15:27,160 Oh, my God. 261 00:15:27,320 --> 00:15:29,480 That is a terrifying dog. 262 00:15:29,680 --> 00:15:31,680 Tell me, have you sold the puppies? Yes. 263 00:15:31,880 --> 00:15:34,520 Where did you sell the puppies to? Kazakhstan. 264 00:15:34,680 --> 00:15:35,800 Kazakhstan. Kazakhstan. 265 00:15:36,000 --> 00:15:38,880 So the trading of these dogs still goes on along the Silk Road? 266 00:15:39,040 --> 00:15:40,280 (TRANSLATES) 267 00:15:42,240 --> 00:15:43,640 They may be perfect guard dogs, 268 00:15:43,840 --> 00:15:45,880 but I'm glad to put some distance between us. 269 00:15:46,040 --> 00:15:47,040 OK. All right. 270 00:15:47,240 --> 00:15:50,680 Thank you very much, sir. Madloba. Thank you. Let's go. 271 00:15:55,040 --> 00:15:56,600 After such a rough ride, 272 00:15:56,800 --> 00:15:59,280 I could certainly do with an energy lift about now, 273 00:15:59,440 --> 00:16:00,880 Silk Road-style, 274 00:16:01,080 --> 00:16:03,520 and I've been told the mountains are home 275 00:16:03,720 --> 00:16:06,320 to one of the earliest versions of confectionery. 276 00:16:07,480 --> 00:16:09,160 Definitely that's gonna help. 277 00:16:09,360 --> 00:16:11,760 These sweet treats, called Churchkhela, 278 00:16:11,960 --> 00:16:15,960 are an ancient Silk Road ration that kept weary travellers fuelled, 279 00:16:16,160 --> 00:16:19,000 and were considered the perfect use for Georgian grapes 280 00:16:19,160 --> 00:16:21,800 that didn't make the grade for wine, 281 00:16:22,000 --> 00:16:24,560 and I'm about to get a master class in how to make them 282 00:16:24,760 --> 00:16:27,040 from traders Dalli and her daughter Dinara. 283 00:16:28,360 --> 00:16:32,560 Grape juice with flour, boiled, and then you add walnuts. 284 00:16:32,720 --> 00:16:35,800 It actually tastes not very sugary. 285 00:16:35,960 --> 00:16:37,520 Can I have a go? 286 00:16:37,720 --> 00:16:39,760 The high sugar content from the grape juice 287 00:16:39,960 --> 00:16:43,160 gives the Churchkhela a shelf life of over six months, 288 00:16:43,360 --> 00:16:45,800 ideal for long journeys along the Silk Road... 289 00:16:47,600 --> 00:16:50,800 ..and with an estimated 2,000 calories per piece, 290 00:16:50,960 --> 00:16:52,520 they'd certainly keep you going. 291 00:16:53,760 --> 00:16:56,160 Thank you. Thank you. Madloba, madloba. 292 00:16:59,440 --> 00:17:03,360 Refuelled on Silk Road sweeties, my journey continues west, 293 00:17:03,560 --> 00:17:06,400 past the Caucasus and onto the home stretch... 294 00:17:09,960 --> 00:17:12,000 ..but for travellers along the Silk Road, 295 00:17:12,200 --> 00:17:14,960 things were not about to get any more peaceful. 296 00:17:18,760 --> 00:17:20,520 Clear of the mountains of Georgia, 297 00:17:20,760 --> 00:17:24,560 I follow the route into the firing line of a new emerging force, 298 00:17:24,720 --> 00:17:26,160 Islamic tribes. 299 00:17:28,160 --> 00:17:32,000 They wanted control of the Anatolia region, today Turkey, 300 00:17:32,200 --> 00:17:35,480 the merging point of several branches of the Silk Road. 301 00:17:44,240 --> 00:17:45,760 During the time of the Silk Road, 302 00:17:45,960 --> 00:17:48,960 this was an absolutely vital trade intersection. 303 00:17:49,160 --> 00:17:51,800 As a result, it had to find ways of protecting itself 304 00:17:52,000 --> 00:17:53,760 from the various bandits and oppressors 305 00:17:53,960 --> 00:17:55,920 who would essentially want to overrun it... 306 00:17:57,120 --> 00:18:00,320 ..but unlike some of the other places that I've been to, 307 00:18:00,520 --> 00:18:02,920 the people here found a way of protecting themselves 308 00:18:03,120 --> 00:18:05,960 and their merchandise that used the landscape. 309 00:18:08,720 --> 00:18:11,760 This is Cappadocia, where strange cliffs, 310 00:18:11,920 --> 00:18:13,960 the remains of volcanic eruptions, 311 00:18:14,160 --> 00:18:17,520 stretch over an area three times the size of London. 312 00:18:20,120 --> 00:18:23,680 The people here discovered the rock was soft and easy to carve, 313 00:18:23,880 --> 00:18:26,560 so began cutting homes into the landscape... 314 00:18:28,080 --> 00:18:32,240 ..but it's what lies beneath these rocks that is the most extraordinary, 315 00:18:32,440 --> 00:18:36,120 a giant network of 200 underground settlements. 316 00:18:39,400 --> 00:18:42,000 I've gained access to one of the largest, 317 00:18:42,160 --> 00:18:43,480 Kaymakli. 318 00:18:48,560 --> 00:18:51,040 Guide Sevim Karabiyik is helping me discover 319 00:18:51,200 --> 00:18:53,960 what life was like inside here. 320 00:18:54,120 --> 00:18:56,000 This is like a labyrinth. 321 00:18:56,200 --> 00:18:59,480 These were no mere subterranean apartment blocks. 322 00:18:59,680 --> 00:19:02,920 Supplied with water, air, and well-stocked with food, 323 00:19:03,120 --> 00:19:06,360 these giant bunkers were built for siege. 324 00:19:06,520 --> 00:19:07,800 (EXCLAIMS) 325 00:19:09,360 --> 00:19:11,440 Wow. This is incredible. 326 00:19:11,600 --> 00:19:13,200 It's a ventilation shaft. 327 00:19:13,400 --> 00:19:17,560 In times of danger, up to 5,000 local residents and traders 328 00:19:17,720 --> 00:19:18,920 would escape underground. 329 00:19:20,200 --> 00:19:24,240 So, they packed their permanent storage places here, 330 00:19:24,440 --> 00:19:27,560 and they were living up there, coming down here to get their stuff 331 00:19:27,760 --> 00:19:30,440 when they needed some food or something, 332 00:19:30,640 --> 00:19:34,360 but when they were alarmed about the enemy approaching, 333 00:19:34,560 --> 00:19:36,520 all they had to do was to grab their kit, 334 00:19:36,680 --> 00:19:38,800 get down, block the entrances. 335 00:19:40,440 --> 00:19:44,480 Kaymakli's residents could survive for six months without going outside. 336 00:19:47,200 --> 00:19:49,720 Built around a series of ventilation shafts, 337 00:19:49,920 --> 00:19:52,760 its network of 100 tunnels spanned eight floors 338 00:19:52,920 --> 00:19:55,000 and connected 64 rooms... 339 00:19:56,880 --> 00:20:00,000 ..as its residents carved stables, wineries, kitchens, 340 00:20:00,200 --> 00:20:03,680 and even churches into the siege-proof complex. 341 00:20:07,720 --> 00:20:10,120 Key to survival was security, 342 00:20:10,320 --> 00:20:14,160 and this included an ingenious Indiana Jones-style invention. 343 00:20:16,440 --> 00:20:19,200 This millstone door here was carved in situ. 344 00:20:19,360 --> 00:20:21,000 They carved this column here, 345 00:20:21,200 --> 00:20:26,240 and the aim was to block the passage coming from the upper level. 346 00:20:26,440 --> 00:20:29,360 Through the hole, people on this side could see 347 00:20:29,560 --> 00:20:32,360 what was happening on the other side, could spear the enemy. 348 00:20:32,560 --> 00:20:34,280 And taunting them as well, maybe? Yeah. 349 00:20:35,400 --> 00:20:37,560 Even the narrow tunnels were designed 350 00:20:37,760 --> 00:20:40,280 with the aim of defending the people from attackers. 351 00:20:41,800 --> 00:20:44,880 Imagine you're the enemy trying to attack this place. 352 00:20:45,040 --> 00:20:47,280 How would you handle that tunnel? 353 00:20:47,480 --> 00:20:50,240 Badly. I handled it quite badly anyway and I'm not an enemy. 354 00:20:50,440 --> 00:20:53,480 It starts to become very difficult to carry any kind of weapon. 355 00:20:53,680 --> 00:20:56,720 Do you think you would be able to wear your armour? No. 356 00:20:56,880 --> 00:20:58,880 And one person at a time. Yeah. 357 00:20:59,080 --> 00:21:04,080 Those narrow, winding tunnels was a big part in their defence system. 358 00:21:04,280 --> 00:21:07,240 I don't know if it's because of it being a siege situation, 359 00:21:07,400 --> 00:21:09,400 but there appears to be no hierarchy, 360 00:21:09,600 --> 00:21:12,120 there appears to be no bigger room for the king, 361 00:21:12,320 --> 00:21:15,240 or no bigger room for the lord and smaller room for the servants, 362 00:21:15,440 --> 00:21:17,800 which is what you would find in a castle, normally. 363 00:21:18,000 --> 00:21:20,760 That's right. I've never thought about it. That is the case. 364 00:21:22,000 --> 00:21:26,040 Kaymakli was first excavated and opened to the public in 1964. 365 00:21:28,720 --> 00:21:31,720 Now, on the outskirts of the city of Nevsehir, 366 00:21:31,920 --> 00:21:36,040 an exciting new underground city has Turkish archaeologists abuzz. 367 00:21:37,520 --> 00:21:40,040 We've secured access as the first film crew 368 00:21:40,240 --> 00:21:43,320 to join the archaeologists as they investigate this site. 369 00:21:46,000 --> 00:21:50,160 It was discovered by construction workers in January 2013. 370 00:21:52,640 --> 00:21:55,480 A team of experts are using cutting-edge technology 371 00:21:55,680 --> 00:21:58,680 to assess just how important this find is. 372 00:21:58,880 --> 00:22:00,800 So, what about this, what's happening here? 373 00:22:01,000 --> 00:22:04,800 They're photographing the place and taking measures of the place, 3D. 374 00:22:04,960 --> 00:22:06,280 In 3D? 375 00:22:07,720 --> 00:22:10,320 These early renderings of the measurements suggest 376 00:22:10,520 --> 00:22:13,280 that there could be as much as 7km of tunnels 377 00:22:13,440 --> 00:22:15,920 going 37 storeys underground. 378 00:22:17,360 --> 00:22:20,280 If true, this will make it the biggest underground city 379 00:22:20,440 --> 00:22:22,440 ever discovered along the Silk Road. 380 00:22:26,480 --> 00:22:28,880 Most of the tunnels are yet to be explored, 381 00:22:29,080 --> 00:22:32,560 but I've been allowed into one that even the archaeologists themselves 382 00:22:32,720 --> 00:22:34,000 have yet to examine. 383 00:22:35,320 --> 00:22:38,160 So, there's a network of tunnels through here... 384 00:22:39,360 --> 00:22:42,840 ..and there seems to be a reluctance for anyone to actually go in here, 385 00:22:43,000 --> 00:22:45,280 so I'm gonna go by myself. 386 00:22:46,600 --> 00:22:48,240 Been nice working with you. 387 00:22:53,920 --> 00:22:56,720 This is quite exciting because this room hasn't been 388 00:22:56,880 --> 00:22:58,880 cleared yet by the archaeologists, 389 00:22:59,080 --> 00:23:01,400 so I just came in here by myself, really. 390 00:23:01,600 --> 00:23:05,000 The network carries on through here... 391 00:23:06,240 --> 00:23:09,200 ..and it's getting, I mean, genuinely Indiana Jones-ish here. 392 00:23:09,400 --> 00:23:12,480 I don't want to meet the spider that produced those things. 393 00:23:12,680 --> 00:23:16,320 Looks like you could catch a fish in them rather than a fly. 394 00:23:16,520 --> 00:23:19,600 I'm no archaeologist, but these tunnels share features with others 395 00:23:19,760 --> 00:23:22,080 I've been seeing in my explorations. 396 00:23:22,240 --> 00:23:24,160 I reckon this is a burial chamber. 397 00:23:24,360 --> 00:23:29,040 It's got a very developed arch, plus these stones here, 398 00:23:29,240 --> 00:23:32,840 so I think this was potentially a burial chamber, 399 00:23:33,000 --> 00:23:34,680 maybe for the enormous spider. 400 00:23:37,280 --> 00:23:39,640 It will take the team years of painstaking work 401 00:23:39,840 --> 00:23:42,440 to fully uncover this secret underworld. 402 00:23:45,320 --> 00:23:48,280 Once it's done, this incredible city will be open 403 00:23:48,480 --> 00:23:51,400 to all modern-day travellers along the Silk Road... 404 00:23:56,360 --> 00:23:58,920 ..but secret bunkers are not the only mysteries 405 00:23:59,120 --> 00:24:02,040 that lurk beneath this fairytale landscape. 406 00:24:04,120 --> 00:24:08,320 There was one that threatened to blow the whole Silk Road apart. 407 00:24:09,040 --> 00:24:10,960 (BOOM) 408 00:24:22,360 --> 00:24:27,480 I'm David Baddiel, deep in the alien underworld of Cappadocia in Turkey. 409 00:24:27,640 --> 00:24:29,280 (EXCLAIMS) 410 00:24:29,440 --> 00:24:30,480 Wow. 411 00:24:30,680 --> 00:24:33,600 This is home to a network of underground cities 412 00:24:33,760 --> 00:24:36,520 that protected over 100,000 people 413 00:24:36,720 --> 00:24:39,320 from marauding tribes along the Silk Road... 414 00:24:40,520 --> 00:24:43,280 Imagine you are the enemy. How would you handle that tunnel? 415 00:24:43,480 --> 00:24:46,440 Badly. I handled it quite badly anyway, and I'm not an enemy. 416 00:24:46,640 --> 00:24:50,200 ..but yet more secrets to survival are hidden in these hills. 417 00:24:51,760 --> 00:24:53,560 Yesterday it became clear to me 418 00:24:53,760 --> 00:24:58,400 that living in Cappadocia meant that you were constantly under siege, 419 00:24:58,600 --> 00:25:01,160 which is why they found ways of using the landscape 420 00:25:01,360 --> 00:25:03,640 and burrowing into the rock to protect themselves, 421 00:25:03,880 --> 00:25:07,080 but obviously, one of the things about being under siege for a long time 422 00:25:07,280 --> 00:25:09,920 is you have to find ways to survive, ways to feed yourself, 423 00:25:10,080 --> 00:25:11,640 and so I'm going now to find out 424 00:25:11,840 --> 00:25:14,120 about the secrets of how they managed to do that. 425 00:25:15,480 --> 00:25:18,800 While the volcanic landscape is ideal for building bunkers, 426 00:25:18,960 --> 00:25:21,400 it's useless for cultivating crops... 427 00:25:22,920 --> 00:25:26,000 ..as local chemist Savas Kurkcu explains to me. 428 00:25:36,520 --> 00:25:40,160 Salvation for food-growers came from an unlikely source. 429 00:25:47,600 --> 00:25:49,200 For fertiliser? Fertilisers. 430 00:25:50,520 --> 00:25:53,120 Yes, one of the most valuable resources 431 00:25:53,280 --> 00:25:55,720 along the Silk Road was pigeon poo. 432 00:25:57,400 --> 00:26:02,280 So valuable, in fact, that the locals carved the birds custom-built caves, 433 00:26:02,440 --> 00:26:04,160 with some ingenious designs. 434 00:26:11,400 --> 00:26:15,200 Every farmer painted his own unique design on his bird cave 435 00:26:15,400 --> 00:26:18,920 to ensure his pigeons would find the right toilet. 436 00:26:24,160 --> 00:26:26,000 Oh, is that right? Yeah, their own house. 437 00:26:33,280 --> 00:26:35,720 These ancient ways are still used today, 438 00:26:35,920 --> 00:26:39,880 and I've been invited to join local farmers Bekir and Hussain 439 00:26:40,040 --> 00:26:42,480 to collect this precious cargo. 440 00:26:42,640 --> 00:26:44,160 So, apparently I'm going up there 441 00:26:44,360 --> 00:26:46,440 into a pigeon cave to collect pigeon poo. 442 00:26:46,640 --> 00:26:48,840 I can't quite remember why I signed up to that. 443 00:26:49,040 --> 00:26:51,480 Maybe I turned over two pages at once, I don't know. 444 00:26:55,560 --> 00:26:58,360 If I can just show you that ladder, it's quite near the edge. 445 00:26:59,560 --> 00:27:03,240 The entrances were deliberately kept high and very small 446 00:27:03,440 --> 00:27:07,240 to keep predators like foxes and weasels from being able to get in. 447 00:27:08,720 --> 00:27:10,120 There's quite a lot of these... 448 00:27:10,280 --> 00:27:11,480 (SAVAS SPEAKING) 449 00:27:11,640 --> 00:27:13,280 That's where the pigeons would nest? 450 00:27:14,880 --> 00:27:16,760 So, how old is this, do we think? 451 00:27:23,120 --> 00:27:26,480 But breathing in pigeon-poo dust can be dangerous. 452 00:27:26,680 --> 00:27:30,880 OK, we're in a cave, we're putting masks on. 453 00:27:31,080 --> 00:27:33,640 Let's be honest, we look like Al-Qaeda. 454 00:27:36,880 --> 00:27:39,440 OK, so, there's quite a big pile of poo here. 455 00:27:39,640 --> 00:27:43,760 Owing to the relatively small amount of fertiliser each bird produces, 456 00:27:43,960 --> 00:27:47,960 back in Silk Road times, collections were made only once or twice a year, 457 00:27:48,120 --> 00:27:50,600 and that's still the case today. 458 00:27:50,760 --> 00:27:52,000 Whoa. 459 00:27:52,160 --> 00:27:54,160 That's a lot of pigeon-poo smoke. 460 00:27:56,920 --> 00:28:00,440 This is the sort of thing you might see in a middle-class household in a vase, 461 00:28:00,640 --> 00:28:02,480 and he's just picked it from his garden 462 00:28:02,680 --> 00:28:04,680 and uses it to brush up the pigeon poo, 463 00:28:04,880 --> 00:28:07,000 as farmers have been doing for centuries. 464 00:28:08,240 --> 00:28:11,960 With a bumper yield of fertiliser, our morning's work is done... 465 00:28:14,160 --> 00:28:18,480 ..but while pigeon poo was celebrated for its agricultural uses, 466 00:28:18,680 --> 00:28:21,880 it also harboured a dark, destructive secret... 467 00:28:23,080 --> 00:28:26,360 ..that ultimately led to the downfall of the Silk Road. 468 00:28:31,760 --> 00:28:35,200 All right, so the same thing that the soil decomposes the droppings into 469 00:28:35,400 --> 00:28:39,360 can also be extracted... Chemically. ..for explosions? Yeah. 470 00:28:39,560 --> 00:28:44,000 So, how did they turn pigeon poo into gunpowder's magical ingredient 471 00:28:44,160 --> 00:28:46,080 potassium nitrate? 472 00:28:46,280 --> 00:28:49,440 My pal Savas is helping me see if I can do it 473 00:28:49,600 --> 00:28:52,040 with some kitchen-sink chemistry. 474 00:28:52,200 --> 00:28:53,520 Oh, my God, it's a bit hot. 475 00:28:53,720 --> 00:28:55,400 I think that's not very well balanced. 476 00:28:55,600 --> 00:28:58,600 Do I put that in there? Yeah, yeah, you can. This water? Yeah. 477 00:28:58,800 --> 00:29:01,040 One of the things it's very important not to do 478 00:29:01,200 --> 00:29:03,000 is mistake it for muesli. 479 00:29:04,760 --> 00:29:07,600 It's a Chinese discovery. Gunpowder was invented by the Chinese, 480 00:29:07,800 --> 00:29:09,560 and presumably came here on the Silk Road. 481 00:29:09,760 --> 00:29:12,200 Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah. 11th, 12th, 13th century. 482 00:29:13,400 --> 00:29:17,200 The Chinese first invented gunpowder in the 9th century. 483 00:29:17,440 --> 00:29:20,600 They got most of their potassium nitrate from bat droppings... 484 00:29:22,000 --> 00:29:25,800 ..but like silk production, it was a closely-guarded secret, 485 00:29:26,000 --> 00:29:30,360 until, that is, the Mongols invaded China and brought the secret west. 486 00:29:31,720 --> 00:29:34,360 As traders returned home with the knowledge, 487 00:29:34,560 --> 00:29:38,160 the question was, could they extract potassium nitrate 488 00:29:38,320 --> 00:29:40,520 from their huge stocks of pigeon poo? 489 00:29:41,880 --> 00:29:43,040 So, we filter that. 490 00:29:43,240 --> 00:29:47,400 I'm beginning to worry our technique might be lacking some sophistication. 491 00:29:47,560 --> 00:29:48,840 That doesn't look right. 492 00:29:50,800 --> 00:29:53,480 Right, we've let it dry under the sun, 493 00:29:53,680 --> 00:29:55,680 and you see the crystals are being formed. 494 00:29:55,880 --> 00:29:58,920 Yeah, and those are crystals which are basically potassium nitrate. 495 00:29:59,120 --> 00:30:02,160 That is the essential constituent of gunpowder? Exactly. 496 00:30:02,320 --> 00:30:05,640 That drop is war. 497 00:30:05,840 --> 00:30:08,560 But potassium nitrate alone isn't gunpowder. 498 00:30:08,760 --> 00:30:10,880 You're gonna add some other ingredients to this 499 00:30:11,040 --> 00:30:12,920 to make it into gunpowder, OK? Yes. 500 00:30:13,080 --> 00:30:14,280 I should say at this point 501 00:30:14,480 --> 00:30:18,240 we are not going to tell you viewers how to do that. We're going to do it, 502 00:30:18,480 --> 00:30:21,680 but we're not gonna tell you the exact ingredients, cos we're not idiots 503 00:30:21,920 --> 00:30:25,520 and we know there are some people out there who may use it for the wrong purposes. 504 00:30:25,680 --> 00:30:27,120 It's a delicate job. 505 00:30:27,280 --> 00:30:28,920 If you are trying to make gunpowder, 506 00:30:29,120 --> 00:30:32,320 you want, definitely, one of these that sounds incredibly like a bell. 507 00:30:32,480 --> 00:30:34,120 If I was the 12th-century police, 508 00:30:34,320 --> 00:30:37,760 I would think, 'Where's that ringing? It's someone making gunpowder again.' 509 00:30:37,920 --> 00:30:40,280 And it has a precise recipe. 510 00:30:40,440 --> 00:30:42,400 Let's hope for the best. Yeah. 511 00:30:42,600 --> 00:30:44,840 In the wrong hands, this could be deadly... 512 00:30:45,960 --> 00:30:47,800 OK, here we go. Stand back. 513 00:30:47,960 --> 00:30:49,040 Let's scoot. 514 00:30:56,400 --> 00:30:58,200 ..or just embarrassing. 515 00:31:00,080 --> 00:31:01,160 Come on, let's go. 516 00:31:01,320 --> 00:31:03,080 Looks like my O-Level Chemistry 517 00:31:03,280 --> 00:31:05,920 isn't quite up there with the Silk Road experts... 518 00:31:08,360 --> 00:31:11,200 ..but trust me, with the secret to gunpowder now out, 519 00:31:11,360 --> 00:31:13,200 warfare was transformed. 520 00:31:14,360 --> 00:31:17,400 It had devastating consequences for the Silk Road. 521 00:31:17,600 --> 00:31:20,800 Now I want to go in search of what happened next. 522 00:31:22,920 --> 00:31:26,640 I love this area. It's one of my absolute favourite places along the Silk Road. 523 00:31:26,840 --> 00:31:29,680 It's so astounding, I think, but I'm gonna have to move on, 524 00:31:29,840 --> 00:31:31,960 and history moved on, too, 525 00:31:32,160 --> 00:31:36,280 because despite it being the most fortified place along the Silk Road, 526 00:31:36,520 --> 00:31:40,280 the place where the landscape absolutely allowed you to withstand siege, 527 00:31:40,480 --> 00:31:43,600 Cappadocia did eventually fall. The Byzantine Empire 528 00:31:43,800 --> 00:31:48,520 fell to the various marauding tribes that always tried to take this area. 529 00:31:48,680 --> 00:31:50,400 Eventually it fell, 530 00:31:50,600 --> 00:31:53,400 and in fact, that empire, the Byzantines, were pushed back 531 00:31:53,600 --> 00:31:56,880 to their last stronghold, which was Constantinople, 532 00:31:57,040 --> 00:31:59,320 and that now is called Istanbul. 533 00:32:01,480 --> 00:32:05,560 Constantinople was the jewel in the Silk Road crown. 534 00:32:05,720 --> 00:32:07,240 It was the end of the road, 535 00:32:07,440 --> 00:32:11,360 and served as the transit point for goods arriving from the East 536 00:32:11,520 --> 00:32:14,440 to be sold on to Western Europe, 537 00:32:14,640 --> 00:32:17,240 and it's here, to this ancient gateway, 538 00:32:17,440 --> 00:32:20,720 I've come to find out how the Silk Road met its end. 539 00:32:28,400 --> 00:32:32,640 The wealth of Constantinople, today Istanbul, was legendary. 540 00:32:34,640 --> 00:32:38,920 At its height, it was the biggest and wealthiest city in all of Europe. 541 00:32:40,800 --> 00:32:41,800 Pickles. 542 00:32:49,520 --> 00:32:50,960 To protect their bounty, 543 00:32:51,160 --> 00:32:55,720 the city's Roman Byzantine rulers built over 22km of walls 544 00:32:55,880 --> 00:32:57,560 to deter would-be attackers. 545 00:32:59,360 --> 00:33:03,280 It seemed impossible that such heavy fortifications could be breached. 546 00:33:07,720 --> 00:33:12,200 Last time I was walking around city walls this big and this thick, 547 00:33:12,400 --> 00:33:15,800 I was in Xi'an, at the very start of the Silk Road. 548 00:33:17,000 --> 00:33:20,640 Of course, the main difference between Xi'an and Istanbul 549 00:33:20,840 --> 00:33:24,880 is that Xi'an was never taken by outside forces, 550 00:33:25,080 --> 00:33:28,880 and so its city walls just remain pristine and fortified, 551 00:33:29,080 --> 00:33:32,040 whereas these ones are in considerably worse nick. 552 00:33:34,440 --> 00:33:37,040 The battered, crumbling walls of Constantinople 553 00:33:37,200 --> 00:33:39,160 bear the scars of a fight. 554 00:33:40,400 --> 00:33:44,400 I'm going to the famous Hagia Sophia to discover more about that fight. 555 00:33:45,880 --> 00:33:49,760 Historian Ferudun Uzgamush has secured me a private visit 556 00:33:50,000 --> 00:33:54,080 to what was, for 1,000 years, the biggest Christian church on Earth... 557 00:33:55,240 --> 00:33:57,720 ..and constantly under threat of attack. 558 00:34:00,000 --> 00:34:03,960 The walls of Constantinople are withstanding attacks all the time. 559 00:34:25,800 --> 00:34:28,520 Right, so it was quite a big incentive? Oh, yeah. 560 00:34:29,720 --> 00:34:32,040 Inspired by this spiritual invitation, 561 00:34:32,200 --> 00:34:34,520 on April 6, 1453, 562 00:34:34,720 --> 00:34:38,600 Islamic soldiers of the Ottoman Empire launched an all-out attack 563 00:34:38,760 --> 00:34:40,040 on the Roman forces... 564 00:34:41,200 --> 00:34:44,640 ..using giant stockpiles of a weapon they could now make, 565 00:34:44,800 --> 00:34:45,920 gunpowder. 566 00:34:46,120 --> 00:34:48,360 Their army smashed down the city walls 567 00:34:48,560 --> 00:34:52,960 with the largest artillery barrage the world had ever experienced. 568 00:34:53,120 --> 00:34:55,600 The victorious Sultan Mehmed II 569 00:34:55,800 --> 00:34:59,400 entered the church and declared it was now a mosque. 570 00:35:01,320 --> 00:35:04,440 Just explain to me what these big Islamic discs that are here... 571 00:35:14,880 --> 00:35:18,160 The Roman Empire that had stood for 2,000 years 572 00:35:18,360 --> 00:35:21,800 and created the Silk Road was destroyed for ever. 573 00:35:24,080 --> 00:35:27,240 You're talking about a wholesale cultural transformation, aren't you? 574 00:35:27,440 --> 00:35:30,280 And that's what happened, this is what this building represents, 575 00:35:30,480 --> 00:35:32,800 as opposed to just, 'We want this place, 576 00:35:33,000 --> 00:35:36,000 we want this building, we want this power.' It's bigger than that. 577 00:35:36,200 --> 00:35:39,560 It's a wholesale spiritual, cultural transformation. Of course. True. 578 00:35:39,760 --> 00:35:42,800 The Silk Road was under new management. 579 00:35:43,000 --> 00:35:45,200 One of the things that is very interesting to me 580 00:35:45,400 --> 00:35:48,400 is that this building was converted to a mosque 581 00:35:48,600 --> 00:35:50,680 rather than being razed to the ground. 582 00:35:53,600 --> 00:35:56,160 To raze the cathedral to the ground? No, no, no. 583 00:35:56,320 --> 00:35:59,880 Is it? No, no, no. 584 00:36:01,560 --> 00:36:03,480 It's very rare to be in a religious building 585 00:36:03,680 --> 00:36:08,400 that's been so cross-fertilised. It's kind of strange, but amazing. 586 00:36:08,600 --> 00:36:11,920 It's good to know that in the 15th century, 587 00:36:12,080 --> 00:36:14,200 when the Muslims overtook this place, 588 00:36:14,400 --> 00:36:20,160 they decided to keep some record of the previous religion, 589 00:36:20,360 --> 00:36:22,240 even if they decided to whitewash over it, 590 00:36:22,440 --> 00:36:24,960 because only... At least whitewashing over it 591 00:36:25,120 --> 00:36:27,040 means you can eventually restore it. 592 00:36:29,200 --> 00:36:33,040 For a while, trade flourished under the new Ottoman rulers, 593 00:36:33,240 --> 00:36:37,120 but after years of stability, things were about to change again. 594 00:36:38,560 --> 00:36:43,280 Next, I go in search of what was the death knell for the Silk Road. 595 00:36:43,480 --> 00:36:46,320 It's ironic because, of course, the Silk Road begins in China, 596 00:36:46,520 --> 00:36:49,760 and a Chinese invention destroys the Silk Road. 597 00:36:58,220 --> 00:37:00,380 I'm David Baddiel, and I'm in Turkey. 598 00:37:01,660 --> 00:37:06,420 I've discovered the remarkable secret ingredient of gunpowder... 599 00:37:06,580 --> 00:37:08,340 That drop is war. 600 00:37:08,500 --> 00:37:10,540 ..and how that Silk Road invention 601 00:37:10,740 --> 00:37:13,580 resulted in the fall of its greatest city. 602 00:37:13,780 --> 00:37:16,820 You're talking about spiritual, cultural transformation. 603 00:37:16,980 --> 00:37:18,380 Of course, sure, 100%. 604 00:37:19,660 --> 00:37:23,580 So far, my journey has taken me over 10,000km 605 00:37:23,780 --> 00:37:26,740 in the footsteps of traders and pioneers. 606 00:37:28,140 --> 00:37:32,100 It ends here in the city of Istanbul - 607 00:37:32,260 --> 00:37:34,540 back then, Constantinople. 608 00:37:39,580 --> 00:37:43,180 As the traders came to the end of their journey they would, like me, 609 00:37:43,340 --> 00:37:46,100 have been tired and dirty. 610 00:37:46,300 --> 00:37:48,260 So I want to experience what is arguably 611 00:37:48,460 --> 00:37:50,460 one of the greatest gifts the Ottomans gave 612 00:37:50,620 --> 00:37:52,100 to those weary travellers, 613 00:37:52,260 --> 00:37:53,940 the Hammam. 614 00:37:54,180 --> 00:37:58,780 I'll be honest with you, if this wasn't on telly, I'd have taken the wrap off by now. 615 00:37:58,980 --> 00:38:02,700 I'm lucky enough to get a private visit to this bathhouse, 616 00:38:02,900 --> 00:38:07,100 built in 1556 by the sultan's personal architect. 617 00:38:07,300 --> 00:38:10,100 It offered royal bathers relaxation... 618 00:38:10,300 --> 00:38:12,580 Like being in the bath without being in the buff. 619 00:38:12,740 --> 00:38:15,180 ..and a good scrub-down. 620 00:38:15,340 --> 00:38:16,860 Put your hands up, please. 621 00:38:18,980 --> 00:38:20,500 So skilled. 622 00:38:20,660 --> 00:38:22,780 These bathhouses proved so popular, 623 00:38:22,980 --> 00:38:25,300 they caused a city-wide water shortage... 624 00:38:28,300 --> 00:38:29,260 Your Highness. 625 00:38:29,460 --> 00:38:32,420 ..and the Sultan had to put a halt to building any more. 626 00:38:34,660 --> 00:38:37,380 I can certainly see why the sultans loved them. 627 00:38:37,580 --> 00:38:41,700 You're being intimately adored, which I think a sultan would have liked. 628 00:38:42,940 --> 00:38:46,900 However, if I'd been in there ten more minutes in that steam room, 629 00:38:47,060 --> 00:38:49,020 I'd have looked more like a sultana. 630 00:38:49,180 --> 00:38:50,580 See what I did there? 631 00:38:52,660 --> 00:38:55,300 Now as my own journey nears the finishing line, 632 00:38:55,500 --> 00:38:58,980 I want to find out how the Silk Road finally met its end. 633 00:39:02,460 --> 00:39:06,580 I'm heading into the seat of power of Sultan Mehmed II, 634 00:39:06,740 --> 00:39:08,380 Topkapi Palace. 635 00:39:11,260 --> 00:39:15,340 After the Sultan defeated the Romans and took control of Constantinople, 636 00:39:15,540 --> 00:39:17,900 he ruled his Ottoman Empire from here. 637 00:39:19,460 --> 00:39:23,220 Marios Hadjianastasis is an expert on its history. 638 00:39:24,380 --> 00:39:29,980 This represents a huge empire that went on from 1300 639 00:39:30,140 --> 00:39:31,980 all the way to 1922. 640 00:39:34,860 --> 00:39:38,620 We've reached the point on the Silk Road journey at which 641 00:39:38,820 --> 00:39:43,260 the Silk Road becomes taken over, essentially, by the Islamic world. 642 00:39:43,420 --> 00:39:44,980 What are the consequences of that? 643 00:39:45,180 --> 00:39:46,900 After the conquest of Constantinople, 644 00:39:47,100 --> 00:39:49,220 they begin to have control of the trade routes 645 00:39:49,420 --> 00:39:52,460 and therefore, the Europeans have to go through using a middleman. 646 00:39:52,660 --> 00:39:55,460 So the Sultan and the Ottomans decided they wanted to control 647 00:39:55,660 --> 00:39:57,940 this absolutely central part of the Silk Road, 648 00:39:58,140 --> 00:40:02,460 and that made it difficult for the trade further on to Europe? 649 00:40:02,660 --> 00:40:05,700 I think it made it less profitable. It made it less profitable. Yes. 650 00:40:05,900 --> 00:40:09,380 But at the same time, what happens a little bit further to the east, 651 00:40:09,540 --> 00:40:11,820 the big states, empires, 652 00:40:12,020 --> 00:40:14,740 which control that route start falling apart. 653 00:40:17,100 --> 00:40:20,060 As the Ottomans took control of the West, 654 00:40:20,220 --> 00:40:23,100 war broke out in Central Asia, 655 00:40:23,300 --> 00:40:26,420 and its kingdoms became hostile towards outsiders. 656 00:40:28,380 --> 00:40:32,020 In the East, China grew distrustful of these warring neighbours 657 00:40:32,220 --> 00:40:34,940 and closed its borders to foreign traders. 658 00:40:37,140 --> 00:40:39,620 Suddenly, doing business along the Silk Road 659 00:40:39,780 --> 00:40:41,700 became much more difficult. 660 00:40:46,420 --> 00:40:48,140 So it's a combination of developments 661 00:40:48,340 --> 00:40:51,260 which brings about the demise of that long haul route. 662 00:40:51,460 --> 00:40:54,460 So, literally, the global market starts to become more complicated 663 00:40:54,700 --> 00:40:57,900 for the people who have always controlled it? Absolutely, absolutely. 664 00:40:58,060 --> 00:41:01,220 The Silk Road's days were numbered. 665 00:41:01,420 --> 00:41:04,780 The final straw, like the silk which started it all, 666 00:41:04,940 --> 00:41:06,940 was yet another Chinese invention 667 00:41:07,140 --> 00:41:09,540 that travelled west along the trade route. 668 00:41:14,060 --> 00:41:18,340 Today, it can be found in every ship on the planet, 669 00:41:18,500 --> 00:41:20,700 and Marios is going to show me. 670 00:41:22,140 --> 00:41:26,180 What happened is in the 8th century, the Chinese invented the compass 671 00:41:26,380 --> 00:41:29,100 and it made it possible to navigate the world 672 00:41:29,300 --> 00:41:32,620 without just relying on measuring the distance from the stars. 673 00:41:34,220 --> 00:41:36,460 The compass allowed ships to safely navigate 674 00:41:36,620 --> 00:41:37,940 around the coast of Africa... 675 00:41:39,140 --> 00:41:42,260 ..which meant that European traders could take to the seas 676 00:41:42,420 --> 00:41:43,900 and cut out the middleman. 677 00:41:45,220 --> 00:41:47,060 So, at a point in time when it's becoming 678 00:41:47,260 --> 00:41:49,260 more and more difficult to travel by land, 679 00:41:49,460 --> 00:41:52,460 traders decide, 'Let's move from land to sea.' Yes. 680 00:41:52,660 --> 00:41:54,780 So there's a huge irony in the fact that 681 00:41:54,980 --> 00:41:57,260 the compass was initially invented by the Chinese, 682 00:41:57,460 --> 00:42:01,340 and the compass contributed greatly to the demise of the Silk Road. 683 00:42:01,540 --> 00:42:04,460 Well, it's ironic because, of course, the Silk Road begins in China 684 00:42:04,620 --> 00:42:07,580 and is powered by Chinese invention, 685 00:42:07,780 --> 00:42:12,460 by gunpowder and paper and Chinese ideas coming down that road. 686 00:42:14,460 --> 00:42:17,620 Shipping overtook transport by land, 687 00:42:17,820 --> 00:42:22,100 and the Silk Road's dominance over the world economy was finished... 688 00:42:24,300 --> 00:42:26,420 ..and my journey has now ended. 689 00:42:28,220 --> 00:42:32,460 There's just time to take one last look at this ancient gateway city 690 00:42:32,620 --> 00:42:34,460 from the waters of the Bosporus. 691 00:42:36,740 --> 00:42:38,620 It's been the most incredible journey, 692 00:42:38,820 --> 00:42:43,260 and it's been a journey not just of kilometres for me - 693 00:42:43,460 --> 00:42:45,940 it has been a journey of understanding. 694 00:42:46,140 --> 00:42:48,540 If you've travelled, like I have, along the Silk Road, 695 00:42:48,740 --> 00:42:52,900 the significance of this stretch of water becomes heightened. 696 00:42:53,100 --> 00:42:56,460 You realise that that journey from Asia to Europe 697 00:42:56,660 --> 00:43:00,140 was one that only began properly with the Silk Road, 698 00:43:00,340 --> 00:43:04,820 which was the beginnings of the world talking to itself, 699 00:43:05,020 --> 00:43:07,900 countries beginning to converse and beginning to share ideas, 700 00:43:08,060 --> 00:43:10,460 and culture, and religion, 701 00:43:10,620 --> 00:43:13,620 and with that came the modern world. 702 00:43:17,020 --> 00:43:20,460 It's been an epic journey from East to West. 703 00:43:21,940 --> 00:43:24,260 I've travelled 10,000km... 704 00:43:27,900 --> 00:43:29,700 ..across seven countries. 705 00:43:32,180 --> 00:43:36,380 I've trekked deserts in the footsteps of Marco Polo... 706 00:43:36,580 --> 00:43:39,540 And less nuzzling from you today, please. 707 00:43:40,780 --> 00:43:45,380 ..scaled mountaintops in search of the nomads who began it all... 708 00:43:45,540 --> 00:43:46,940 Bye-bye. 709 00:43:47,100 --> 00:43:48,620 Bye-bye. 710 00:43:48,820 --> 00:43:51,300 ..dived for treasures of lost kingdoms... 711 00:43:52,700 --> 00:43:55,380 ..to uncover the secrets of the road 712 00:43:55,580 --> 00:43:58,100 that led to the world as we know it today. 713 00:43:58,260 --> 00:44:00,180 subtitles by Deluxe 60229

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