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Would you like to inspect the original subtitles? These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:01,600 --> 00:00:04,920 This time, I'm in the wild heart of the Silk Road... 2 00:00:05,020 --> 00:00:06,880 Look at this! It's dried lizard! 3 00:00:06,980 --> 00:00:07,960 ..Central Asia. 4 00:00:08,060 --> 00:00:09,680 (MAN SHOUTS INDISTINCTLY) Whoa! 5 00:00:09,800 --> 00:00:12,880 I discover the secrets of survival in this unforgiving land... 6 00:00:12,980 --> 00:00:13,960 (SCREECHING) 7 00:00:14,080 --> 00:00:16,400 Yeah, you can tell I was born to this. 8 00:00:16,520 --> 00:00:19,680 ..dive to find treasure in a Silk Road Atlantis... 9 00:00:19,840 --> 00:00:23,840 If I find 200 gold coins, do I get to keep it? 10 00:00:23,960 --> 00:00:27,240 ..and unearth the animal that finally persuaded the Chinese 11 00:00:27,340 --> 00:00:29,080 to part with their precious silk... 12 00:00:29,200 --> 00:00:31,440 Are you telling me that's what the Chinese wanted? 13 00:00:31,560 --> 00:00:34,160 ..and change the course of human history. 14 00:00:36,160 --> 00:00:39,080 I'm David Baddiel. I'm on the adventure of a lifetime... 15 00:00:39,180 --> 00:00:40,720 Whoa! 16 00:00:40,840 --> 00:00:44,480 ..retracing the steps of merchants, warriors and pilgrims 17 00:00:44,600 --> 00:00:47,520 along the largest trade route the world has ever known, 18 00:00:47,620 --> 00:00:49,080 the Silk Road. 19 00:00:49,180 --> 00:00:50,520 As a writer and comedian, 20 00:00:50,640 --> 00:00:53,480 I'm fascinated by people and their stories... 21 00:00:53,580 --> 00:00:55,040 These are amazing. 22 00:00:55,160 --> 00:00:58,920 ..and the Silk Road is one of the greatest human stories of them all. 23 00:00:59,020 --> 00:01:00,800 (ALL CHEER) 24 00:01:00,920 --> 00:01:04,360 It's got everything. Religion, culture... 25 00:01:04,460 --> 00:01:05,480 How do I look? 26 00:01:05,580 --> 00:01:07,680 ..music, war. 27 00:01:09,600 --> 00:01:14,720 Now I want to live that story. It will push me to my limits. 28 00:01:14,840 --> 00:01:17,080 Whoa, whoa, whoa. (DOG BARKS) 29 00:01:17,180 --> 00:01:18,920 We have got a bit of a situation. 30 00:01:19,040 --> 00:01:21,760 There have been reports of landslides. 31 00:01:22,300 --> 00:01:24,920 This monumental network stretches 32 00:01:25,080 --> 00:01:28,200 across some of the toughest terrain on Earth. 33 00:01:28,300 --> 00:01:31,240 It's like a sadistic army exercise. 34 00:01:31,360 --> 00:01:35,320 The Silk Road witnessed the rise and fall of empires 35 00:01:35,440 --> 00:01:38,320 and shaped the modern world as we know it. 36 00:01:47,500 --> 00:01:51,520 My journey so far has taken me over 3,700km, 37 00:01:51,640 --> 00:01:53,840 from the cosmopolitan city of Xi'an... 38 00:01:53,940 --> 00:01:56,480 The Silk Road began here. 39 00:01:56,580 --> 00:01:59,000 ..and across the Taklamakan desert. 40 00:01:59,120 --> 00:02:01,520 I can only hope they aren't the graves of people 41 00:02:01,640 --> 00:02:03,960 who tried to cross the desert by camel. 42 00:02:04,080 --> 00:02:06,320 Now I'm heading into the most dangerous 43 00:02:06,420 --> 00:02:08,880 and remote region of the Silk Road. 44 00:02:12,720 --> 00:02:15,480 So, we've travelled thousands and thousands of miles 45 00:02:15,600 --> 00:02:18,920 since we started along the Silk Route, and we are now in Kashgar, 46 00:02:19,040 --> 00:02:22,160 which is the most westerly city we're gonna get to in China. 47 00:02:26,020 --> 00:02:27,960 In the days of the Silk Road, 48 00:02:28,080 --> 00:02:33,040 Kashgar was an oasis for traders crossing the Taklamakan desert from the east 49 00:02:33,160 --> 00:02:36,680 and the treacherous mountains to the northwest. 50 00:02:36,800 --> 00:02:39,720 As a result, it became a vital trade hub 51 00:02:39,840 --> 00:02:42,000 for merchants from all over the world. 52 00:02:44,660 --> 00:02:46,560 I want to find out what happened 53 00:02:46,680 --> 00:02:50,800 when all these different cultures converged on Kashgar. 54 00:02:50,920 --> 00:02:54,800 The first clues come from the faces of the people here. 55 00:02:54,920 --> 00:02:57,480 As you travel west, along the Silk Road, 56 00:02:57,600 --> 00:03:00,400 what happens is that China becomes less and less Chinese, 57 00:03:00,500 --> 00:03:03,320 as we in the West understand Chinese, 58 00:03:03,440 --> 00:03:05,880 and it becomes more and more Middle-Eastern. 59 00:03:06,000 --> 00:03:09,880 It turns out that around 50% of Kashgar's population 60 00:03:09,980 --> 00:03:12,840 are not Han Chinese. 61 00:03:12,960 --> 00:03:15,760 They're descended from Central Asian traders, 62 00:03:15,880 --> 00:03:21,240 Turkic tribes, and Hun warriors, and are called the Uygur people. 63 00:03:21,340 --> 00:03:24,440 And Uygur people, as you can tell, 64 00:03:24,600 --> 00:03:27,560 are more like people you would get in Baghdad. 65 00:03:29,080 --> 00:03:31,680 I'm intrigued how this cultural melting pot 66 00:03:31,780 --> 00:03:33,480 has influenced global trade... 67 00:03:36,620 --> 00:03:39,400 ..and the best place to look 68 00:03:39,520 --> 00:03:42,280 is the world-famous Kashgar grand bazaar. 69 00:03:53,400 --> 00:03:56,640 Local guide Karim is showing me around. 70 00:03:56,740 --> 00:04:00,120 How do I look? (LAUGHING) 71 00:04:00,240 --> 00:04:02,360 Just like in the heyday of the Silk Road, 72 00:04:02,480 --> 00:04:05,440 there are furs to protect travellers from the bitter cold... 73 00:04:05,560 --> 00:04:08,000 If I wear this, I look like a rabbi. I know... 74 00:04:08,120 --> 00:04:11,520 I've not even got to look in a mirror. I know I look like a Rabbi. 75 00:04:11,620 --> 00:04:13,840 ..sustenance for long journeys... 76 00:04:13,940 --> 00:04:15,960 That is a very nice nut. 77 00:04:16,060 --> 00:04:17,920 ..and ancient organic medicines 78 00:04:18,040 --> 00:04:21,280 that are still used as cure-alls by the Uygurs today. 79 00:04:21,380 --> 00:04:23,360 Wow, look at this! It's dried lizard! 80 00:04:23,460 --> 00:04:24,760 They're the dried lizard. 81 00:04:24,880 --> 00:04:27,880 Wow! Is that an animal? KARIM: Yeah. Animal. 82 00:04:28,000 --> 00:04:31,040 Is that a hedgehog? It's dead. Yeah, dead. OK, great. 83 00:04:31,140 --> 00:04:33,440 So there's dried hedgehog as well. 84 00:04:33,560 --> 00:04:35,840 Goods like these would have helped traders survive 85 00:04:35,960 --> 00:04:38,120 as they headed east and west, selling silk. 86 00:04:44,080 --> 00:04:46,240 But there has been one product traded here 87 00:04:46,360 --> 00:04:50,160 for longer than any other in this ancient gateway city - 88 00:04:50,260 --> 00:04:51,560 livestock... 89 00:04:52,800 --> 00:04:55,440 ..and it's still every bit as much in demand today 90 00:04:55,540 --> 00:04:57,600 as it was on the Silk Road. 91 00:05:00,720 --> 00:05:04,760 Traders came from all over the world looking for a deal, 92 00:05:04,880 --> 00:05:09,000 including Marco Polo, who wrote of his visit 700 years ago. 93 00:05:10,500 --> 00:05:12,160 (KARIM SPEAKING) 94 00:05:13,820 --> 00:05:15,520 Right. No any change. 95 00:05:15,640 --> 00:05:17,400 It hasn't changed since Marco Polo died, 96 00:05:17,520 --> 00:05:21,200 apart from some trucks. The trucks are slightly different. 97 00:05:21,320 --> 00:05:22,800 (HORN HONKS) (GOATS BLEAT) 98 00:05:24,120 --> 00:05:28,360 Today, a single sheep will sell for £150, 99 00:05:28,460 --> 00:05:32,000 but a good cow can fetch near £1,000. 100 00:05:32,120 --> 00:05:35,040 Oh, that's a huge amount of money. He give the money, yeah. 101 00:05:35,160 --> 00:05:39,240 (KARIM SPEAKING) Yeah, yeah, yeah. 102 00:05:39,360 --> 00:05:43,360 And this animal stock-exchange is all overseen by one man. 103 00:05:44,720 --> 00:05:46,120 Oh, yeah. (KARIM SPEAKING) 104 00:05:46,240 --> 00:05:48,360 Oh, are you? Hello, sir. Nice to meet you. 105 00:05:51,140 --> 00:05:53,000 Hello, Abdul Resh. I'm David. 106 00:05:53,120 --> 00:05:56,520 And you own the whole market? It's yours? Wow. OK. 107 00:05:56,620 --> 00:05:58,600 (SPEAKING LOCAL LANGUAGE) 108 00:06:01,720 --> 00:06:04,960 (KARIM SPEAKING) Oh, for me to buy a camel? 109 00:06:05,080 --> 00:06:07,480 Yeah. If you want to, you can see the camel... 110 00:06:07,600 --> 00:06:11,280 I'm hoping to go back to England by aeroplane, but I'll have a look. 111 00:06:11,400 --> 00:06:14,280 These beasts of burden have been essential for transport 112 00:06:14,400 --> 00:06:17,120 from the time of the Silk Road right up until today. 113 00:06:18,800 --> 00:06:22,560 But they also played a key role in keeping travellers alive. 114 00:06:24,320 --> 00:06:28,280 Abdul takes me next door to show me how on his camel farm. 115 00:06:30,200 --> 00:06:32,400 At least, I hope that's where we're going. 116 00:06:32,520 --> 00:06:36,160 I'm pretty sure that they think this is another camel. (CHUCKLES) 117 00:06:36,260 --> 00:06:37,640 Yup! (CHUCKLES) 118 00:06:37,760 --> 00:06:42,440 Abdul's camels aren't for riding. They're kept specially for milking. 119 00:06:43,280 --> 00:06:46,560 Can you see an udder? I can't see an udder. Oh, wow. 120 00:06:49,760 --> 00:06:53,360 Camel's milk was the "white gold" of the Silk Road. 121 00:06:53,460 --> 00:06:55,400 Look at that foot, it's enormous! 122 00:06:55,500 --> 00:06:57,840 It contains ten times more iron 123 00:06:57,960 --> 00:07:01,080 and three times more vitamin C than cow's milk. 124 00:07:01,200 --> 00:07:04,280 This is really weird. I mean, I've got... 125 00:07:04,400 --> 00:07:07,040 I've got my finger on the... on the udder. 126 00:07:07,160 --> 00:07:11,360 Thank you. Thank you. Can I give you that? Oy vey! 127 00:07:11,480 --> 00:07:16,920 Abdul's herd produces £56,000 worth of camel milk every week... 128 00:07:18,900 --> 00:07:20,200 (LAUGHS) 129 00:07:20,320 --> 00:07:23,560 ..and he wants me to try this Silk Road super-food. 130 00:07:23,660 --> 00:07:25,240 (SPEAKING LOCAL LANGUAGE) Cheers. 131 00:07:25,360 --> 00:07:28,200 Cheers. (LAUGHS) Hos, you say? Hos. Hmm. 132 00:07:29,940 --> 00:07:32,720 I just really hope this is milk. 133 00:07:32,820 --> 00:07:35,320 It's good. 134 00:07:35,420 --> 00:07:37,920 Wow. (EXHALES) 135 00:07:38,020 --> 00:07:39,840 Mmm. You had it all? Hmm. 136 00:07:39,960 --> 00:07:42,160 I guess I'm gonna have to do that. (CHUCKLES) 137 00:07:42,260 --> 00:07:44,320 Don't wanna be rude. Mmm. 138 00:07:46,700 --> 00:07:48,760 Cheers. Good. 139 00:07:48,880 --> 00:07:52,560 Next up, more milk. This time, it's been fermented. 140 00:07:55,960 --> 00:07:59,280 Wow, that's actually really nice! (LAUGHS) 141 00:07:59,380 --> 00:08:01,360 (SPEAKING LOCAL LANGUAGE) 142 00:08:17,700 --> 00:08:19,280 Amazing. Yeah, yeah. 143 00:08:19,400 --> 00:08:22,440 That camel milk, it's doing you great. 144 00:08:22,560 --> 00:08:25,840 Fantastic! Look at your lung. It's really expanded. (SLURPS) 145 00:08:26,960 --> 00:08:29,360 With my appetite whetted, I'm keen to try 146 00:08:29,480 --> 00:08:32,080 some of the street food available at the market. 147 00:08:33,420 --> 00:08:35,600 It seems the menu hasn't changed much 148 00:08:35,720 --> 00:08:38,600 since Marco Polo's visit 700 years ago. 149 00:08:41,960 --> 00:08:45,200 Most of what's on offer walked here this morning. 150 00:08:45,300 --> 00:08:48,760 It doesn't get any fresher than this. 151 00:08:48,860 --> 00:08:50,440 (KARIM SPEAKING) 152 00:08:56,760 --> 00:08:58,920 Karim tells me that it was the Uygurs 153 00:08:59,040 --> 00:09:01,960 who invented something archetypally Chinese, 154 00:09:02,080 --> 00:09:05,960 which reached the rest of the world along the Silk Road... 155 00:09:06,060 --> 00:09:07,400 ..noodles. 156 00:09:07,500 --> 00:09:09,080 (KARIM SPEAKING) 157 00:09:10,900 --> 00:09:12,000 Yeah. 158 00:09:14,540 --> 00:09:16,040 OK. 159 00:09:16,160 --> 00:09:18,360 The theory goes that noodles travelled west 160 00:09:18,460 --> 00:09:20,280 from China to Italy, 161 00:09:20,400 --> 00:09:24,120 so it seems we can thank the Silk Road for pasta, too. 162 00:09:24,220 --> 00:09:25,800 (KARIM SPEAKING) 163 00:09:27,680 --> 00:09:30,960 The Noodle Road. I like the idea that the Silk Road 164 00:09:31,080 --> 00:09:32,960 could have been called the Noodle Road. 165 00:09:36,400 --> 00:09:38,840 Now I must bid farewell to my new friend 166 00:09:38,960 --> 00:09:41,320 and continue my journey along the Noodle Road. 167 00:09:43,360 --> 00:09:46,920 So, what the cultural blend in Kashgar has done 168 00:09:47,040 --> 00:09:50,880 is it's prepared me for the next step of my journey along the Silk Road, 169 00:09:50,980 --> 00:09:52,320 for the "stans". 170 00:09:52,440 --> 00:09:56,680 For Kazakhstan, and Uzbekistan, and Azerbaijan. 171 00:09:56,800 --> 00:09:59,960 And so I'm gonna go in that direction, 172 00:10:00,080 --> 00:10:02,760 and the most Chinese of men, Chairman Mao, 173 00:10:02,860 --> 00:10:04,240 is showing me the way out. 174 00:10:06,300 --> 00:10:07,520 Once out there, 175 00:10:07,640 --> 00:10:11,040 I hope to discover just what Mao's ancestors were after 176 00:10:11,160 --> 00:10:14,800 when they set off along the Silk Road's wild west. 177 00:10:14,920 --> 00:10:17,920 That's what the Chinese were drawn by? Yes. 178 00:10:28,700 --> 00:10:29,680 How do I look? 179 00:10:29,780 --> 00:10:31,640 I'm David Baddiel... 180 00:10:31,740 --> 00:10:32,720 Wa-hey! 181 00:10:32,840 --> 00:10:36,080 ..and in Kashgar, China, I've discovered camel's milk... 182 00:10:36,180 --> 00:10:37,960 Look at that foot, it's enormous! 183 00:10:38,060 --> 00:10:40,080 ..was a Silk Road super-food... 184 00:10:40,180 --> 00:10:41,920 Wow, that's actually really nice! 185 00:10:42,020 --> 00:10:44,560 ..and pasta came from noodles. 186 00:10:44,680 --> 00:10:47,080 The Silk Road could have been called the Noodle Road. 187 00:10:48,600 --> 00:10:52,160 Now I'm in Kazakhstan to find out what it was 188 00:10:52,280 --> 00:10:55,800 that first enticed China onto the famous trade route. 189 00:10:57,640 --> 00:11:02,040 I've grasped why the Romans went east in search of silk... 190 00:11:03,440 --> 00:11:06,960 ..and many other things that the Chinese could provide. 191 00:11:07,080 --> 00:11:09,520 But a road, obviously, is a two-way thing, 192 00:11:09,620 --> 00:11:11,000 so there's gotta be something 193 00:11:11,120 --> 00:11:15,080 that the Chinese wanted from this part of the world. 194 00:11:15,200 --> 00:11:18,040 And it's here somewhere, and I'm gonna find out what it is. 195 00:11:19,800 --> 00:11:24,360 So far, my journey has taken me through the heart of China. 196 00:11:24,480 --> 00:11:27,960 From Kashgar, I travelled across the Tien Shan mountains 197 00:11:28,080 --> 00:11:32,440 to Kazakhstan to join a northern branch of the Silk Road. 198 00:11:33,640 --> 00:11:37,000 Now I'm heading for the Tamgaly gorge. 199 00:11:38,900 --> 00:11:41,560 The gorge is deep within the steppe, 200 00:11:41,680 --> 00:11:45,240 a grassland which stretches almost one-fifth of the way 201 00:11:45,340 --> 00:11:46,720 around the planet. 202 00:11:50,840 --> 00:11:54,080 So I'm gonna need the help of local guide Alexandra 203 00:11:54,180 --> 00:11:56,160 to find its hidden clues. 204 00:12:00,660 --> 00:12:02,760 So, it's very empty. 205 00:12:02,880 --> 00:12:05,040 At the moment this looks like endless plains, 206 00:12:05,160 --> 00:12:10,240 but who would have been coming across this area over the years? 207 00:12:13,340 --> 00:12:15,920 OK, so this is very much an area 208 00:12:16,040 --> 00:12:20,520 that nomadic tribes would have crossed. Exactly. 209 00:12:20,620 --> 00:12:22,240 3,000 years ago, 210 00:12:22,360 --> 00:12:26,320 the nomads in this region carved intricate images into the rocks. 211 00:12:29,200 --> 00:12:31,840 Actually, I think there's something round here, as well. 212 00:12:31,960 --> 00:12:34,120 And there was one symbol, more than any other, 213 00:12:34,240 --> 00:12:37,160 that the people here in Central Asia revered. 214 00:12:38,240 --> 00:12:40,280 OK, so here they are. So, these are amazing. 215 00:12:40,400 --> 00:12:43,120 What...what are these? (ALEXANDRA SPEAKING) 216 00:12:49,240 --> 00:12:50,840 When the Silk Road first began, 217 00:12:50,960 --> 00:12:53,600 horses were central to life in this region, 218 00:12:53,720 --> 00:12:57,480 and were the secret behind the supremacy of an empire 219 00:12:57,600 --> 00:13:00,680 that was kicking China's arse, the Xiongnu. 220 00:13:02,200 --> 00:13:05,320 Their big, strong horses made light work 221 00:13:05,440 --> 00:13:08,880 of the short, weaker ones that China rode into battle. 222 00:13:10,160 --> 00:13:13,040 If the Chinese were to stand any chance of winning, 223 00:13:13,140 --> 00:13:15,120 they needed an upgrade. 224 00:13:15,240 --> 00:13:19,920 They heard rumours of other huge, powerful horses in Central Asia. 225 00:13:22,020 --> 00:13:23,760 (ALEXANDRA SPEAKING) 226 00:13:29,160 --> 00:13:33,120 OK. And that legend of the horse, that's what the Chinese were drawn by? 227 00:13:33,240 --> 00:13:36,480 Yes. Chinese people were very interested in horses. 228 00:13:36,600 --> 00:13:39,840 And the way to get those strong horses, China realised, 229 00:13:39,940 --> 00:13:43,320 was to buy them with silk. 230 00:13:43,440 --> 00:13:47,040 They sent caravans of silk-laden camels west, 231 00:13:47,160 --> 00:13:51,920 for the first time in history, and negotiated a trade deal - 232 00:13:52,020 --> 00:13:54,080 horses for precious fabric. 233 00:13:55,120 --> 00:13:58,040 With supply and demand opened up at both ends, 234 00:13:58,140 --> 00:14:00,000 the Silk Road was born. 235 00:14:02,880 --> 00:14:06,920 So, you talked earlier about nomads being in this area. 236 00:14:07,040 --> 00:14:10,880 I guess the horse would have been central to nomadic life. 237 00:14:10,980 --> 00:14:12,520 (ALEXANDRA SPEAKING) 238 00:14:24,740 --> 00:14:28,640 I'm intrigued to know if this way of life still continues today. 239 00:14:29,980 --> 00:14:31,760 Do the nomads still exist? 240 00:14:38,140 --> 00:14:40,920 I'm on a mission to find the nomads, 241 00:14:41,040 --> 00:14:43,560 so I'm leaving the Kazakhstan grasslands 242 00:14:43,680 --> 00:14:45,560 and heading south along the Silk Road, 243 00:14:45,660 --> 00:14:48,320 into the mountains of Kyrgyzstan. 244 00:14:50,920 --> 00:14:54,080 But to get there, I have to cross over the border. 245 00:14:55,280 --> 00:14:59,080 In the past, many of the kingdoms here were at war with each other, 246 00:14:59,200 --> 00:15:03,080 so border crossings would have been fraught with danger. 247 00:15:03,200 --> 00:15:07,920 So, we're at the border between Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan, 248 00:15:08,740 --> 00:15:10,600 erm, and... 249 00:15:12,320 --> 00:15:14,960 I don't know how long it's gonna take to get through, 250 00:15:15,080 --> 00:15:17,800 because there seems to be a certain amount 251 00:15:17,920 --> 00:15:21,040 of bureaucratic stuff going on up ahead. 252 00:15:21,160 --> 00:15:24,520 Also, I'm not sure we're allowed to film. 253 00:15:24,640 --> 00:15:27,920 Today, all of the "stans" in Central Asia 254 00:15:28,040 --> 00:15:32,160 are involved in border disputes, so crossing them is still daunting. 255 00:15:33,680 --> 00:15:37,040 If I do go missing, and, say, in a couple of years' time, 256 00:15:37,140 --> 00:15:39,040 you see me in the back of a shop, 257 00:15:39,140 --> 00:15:42,240 er, in, kind of, a basement, 258 00:15:42,340 --> 00:15:44,640 can you alert someone? Interpol? 259 00:15:47,440 --> 00:15:51,200 We've been asked to leave the van. Hang on. Yeah. 260 00:15:51,300 --> 00:15:53,280 No, don't film? OK. 261 00:15:58,000 --> 00:16:00,120 I've made it across the Kazakh border. 262 00:16:00,240 --> 00:16:03,640 Now I just need to make it in to Kyrgyzstan. 263 00:16:07,360 --> 00:16:10,320 Passport control might seem like a modern invention, 264 00:16:10,420 --> 00:16:11,800 but 700 years ago, 265 00:16:11,920 --> 00:16:15,800 Marco Polo had his own rudimentary version. 266 00:16:15,920 --> 00:16:20,800 In his day, travellers carried metal plaques called Paizi, 267 00:16:20,920 --> 00:16:25,400 and border guards could be killed for denying a Paizi-holder entry. 268 00:16:29,900 --> 00:16:31,280 It's OK. Thank you. 269 00:16:32,440 --> 00:16:35,080 I tell you, one of the most reassuring sounds in the world 270 00:16:35,200 --> 00:16:38,280 is the... (CLICKS TONGUE) ..clunk of the passport stamp, 271 00:16:38,380 --> 00:16:40,080 particularly in places like this. 272 00:16:43,360 --> 00:16:48,000 Just 25km into Kyrgyzstan is the ancient city of Bishkek. 273 00:16:49,540 --> 00:16:51,040 On my journey so far, 274 00:16:51,160 --> 00:16:53,880 I've been following in the footsteps of Marco Polo, 275 00:16:53,980 --> 00:16:56,160 but here I'm starting to see signs 276 00:16:56,280 --> 00:16:59,600 of some more recent Silk Road travellers, 277 00:16:59,700 --> 00:17:00,760 the Soviets. 278 00:17:03,440 --> 00:17:06,040 I don't think I've ever actually seen goose-stepping 279 00:17:06,140 --> 00:17:09,040 in the wild, as it were. 280 00:17:09,160 --> 00:17:12,560 I felt I could hear the theme music to The Producers, 281 00:17:12,680 --> 00:17:14,880 and then the fountains came on! (CHUCKLES) 282 00:17:15,960 --> 00:17:19,120 The Soviets governed Kyrgyzstan for over 70 years, 283 00:17:19,240 --> 00:17:23,360 and cast a huge shadow on the modern Silk Road. 284 00:17:23,480 --> 00:17:27,480 But if you look beyond the Russian architecture and statues of Lenin, 285 00:17:27,600 --> 00:17:31,200 there are clues to Kyrgyzstan's more ancient heritage. 286 00:17:32,260 --> 00:17:33,520 The legacy of the Silk Road 287 00:17:33,640 --> 00:17:37,000 and the horse becoming important here is clear in the statues, 288 00:17:37,120 --> 00:17:40,000 virtually all of which are horse-based, 289 00:17:40,120 --> 00:17:43,400 are people on horses, except for one I've seen down there, 290 00:17:43,500 --> 00:17:45,880 which is a horse on top of a man. 291 00:17:47,340 --> 00:17:50,040 I need to continue my journey south, 292 00:17:50,160 --> 00:17:53,080 so I want to see what the descendants of the ancient nomads 293 00:17:53,180 --> 00:17:55,760 can offer me in the way of transport. 294 00:17:57,640 --> 00:18:01,560 (IMITATES REVVING) Wow! (SPEAKS OWN LANGUAGE) 295 00:18:02,500 --> 00:18:04,520 I can't ride a horse, 296 00:18:04,640 --> 00:18:07,680 so I've been told this is the best they can do 297 00:18:07,800 --> 00:18:10,560 if I want to feel the wind in my hair. 298 00:18:10,660 --> 00:18:13,440 (LAUGHS) I think this is it! 299 00:18:15,220 --> 00:18:16,760 Hello. Hello. 300 00:18:16,880 --> 00:18:20,440 (GREETS IN LOCAL LANGUAGE) Hello. Mansur? 301 00:18:20,560 --> 00:18:23,440 Yes. I'm David. Hello. Nice to meet you. 302 00:18:23,560 --> 00:18:25,880 Nice to meet you too. Is this my bike? 303 00:18:26,000 --> 00:18:28,800 This? Yes. This is my bike. Does it work? 304 00:18:28,920 --> 00:18:33,520 Just like the ancient nomads, Mansur loves to hit the open road, 305 00:18:33,640 --> 00:18:38,040 but he's swapped his ancestral horse for a Ural M63. 306 00:18:38,140 --> 00:18:40,720 I love it, it's great. How old is it? 307 00:18:40,840 --> 00:18:46,200 MANSUR: This is 1978. It looks like that. Perfect. 308 00:18:46,300 --> 00:18:48,560 (LAUGHS) Does it work? 309 00:18:50,260 --> 00:18:52,240 (ENGINE CRANKING) 310 00:18:56,260 --> 00:18:58,880 (ENGINE STARTING) 311 00:18:58,980 --> 00:19:00,440 OK, yeah. 312 00:19:02,900 --> 00:19:05,200 Oi! Oh, no. (LAUGHS) 313 00:19:05,300 --> 00:19:07,360 (ENGINE STARTING) 314 00:19:09,100 --> 00:19:10,800 Whoa! (LAUGHS) 315 00:19:10,920 --> 00:19:14,000 That's hurting me quite a lot every time that happens. 316 00:19:14,100 --> 00:19:15,760 OK, Mansur, is it OK, 317 00:19:15,880 --> 00:19:18,200 cos I don't think I'm an expert on the bike yet, 318 00:19:18,320 --> 00:19:21,560 if you take me out for a test drive, and I'll sit in the side-car? 319 00:19:21,660 --> 00:19:23,200 All right. OK, thank you. 320 00:19:25,000 --> 00:19:27,840 These motorcycles were built for the Soviet army 321 00:19:27,940 --> 00:19:29,960 to cope with the harsh terrain... 322 00:19:30,060 --> 00:19:33,200 Look at that pothole. Whoa! Oi! 323 00:19:33,300 --> 00:19:34,480 ...which is fortunate. 324 00:19:34,600 --> 00:19:38,560 This isn't a road, it's just... It's an obstacle course! 325 00:19:39,480 --> 00:19:43,200 After the fall of the Soviet Union, these weapons of the Russian army 326 00:19:43,320 --> 00:19:47,160 became the workhorses of the Kyrgyzstan residents, 327 00:19:47,260 --> 00:19:50,080 as Mansur's friends can testify. 328 00:19:51,240 --> 00:19:56,240 Finally, the Kyrgyzstan chapter of Hell's Angels has turned up! 329 00:19:56,340 --> 00:19:58,120 But before I can join the gang, 330 00:19:58,240 --> 00:20:01,560 I'm going to have to figure out how this bike works. 331 00:20:03,260 --> 00:20:05,240 Oh, the old girl's got some poke! 332 00:20:07,520 --> 00:20:10,800 Home, Mansur, and don't spare the environment. 333 00:20:13,600 --> 00:20:16,560 (SIGHS) Thank you, Mansur, that was great. 334 00:20:16,680 --> 00:20:18,760 A fabulous ride. Yeah. You're welcome. 335 00:20:18,880 --> 00:20:22,360 There's life in the old girl yet. Thank you, my brothers and sisters. 336 00:20:22,460 --> 00:20:24,160 (CHUCKLES) (INDISTINCT) 337 00:20:25,820 --> 00:20:27,280 Oh... (LAUGHS) 338 00:20:28,620 --> 00:20:31,040 Wow. It's amazing. 339 00:20:31,440 --> 00:20:34,000 Look at that, I'm a member of the chapter now, aren't I? 340 00:20:34,120 --> 00:20:39,320 Hey, and I don't have to cut my hand, or be hog-tied, or anything. 341 00:20:39,420 --> 00:20:42,640 OK. One, two, go. 342 00:20:42,740 --> 00:20:44,280 (CAMERA CLICKS) 343 00:20:46,200 --> 00:20:48,520 Now let's go and find those (BLEEP) nomads. 344 00:20:50,280 --> 00:20:54,280 Like the Silk Road traders before me, I'm leaving the safety of the city 345 00:20:54,400 --> 00:20:58,240 and heading for the snowy peaks of the Tien Shan. 346 00:20:58,360 --> 00:21:01,040 The name translates as "Heavenly Mountains", 347 00:21:01,160 --> 00:21:04,360 but given the thousands of traders killed trying to cross them, 348 00:21:04,460 --> 00:21:06,720 "Jaws of Death" feels more apt. 349 00:21:16,300 --> 00:21:17,960 I'm David Baddiel, 350 00:21:19,240 --> 00:21:23,160 and so far, I've discovered the trade of nomad horses 351 00:21:23,280 --> 00:21:27,000 was what lured China west along the Silk Road... 352 00:21:27,120 --> 00:21:29,840 That's what the Chinese were drawn by? Yes. 353 00:21:29,960 --> 00:21:32,160 ..and the descendants of the horse traders 354 00:21:32,260 --> 00:21:34,880 are still around today. 355 00:21:38,700 --> 00:21:41,480 Now I'm on a mission to find them. 356 00:21:44,840 --> 00:21:48,240 To feed their livestock, nomads move to high ground 357 00:21:48,340 --> 00:21:50,000 during the summer, 358 00:21:50,120 --> 00:21:52,280 so I'm following the ancient trade route 359 00:21:52,380 --> 00:21:55,240 into the mountains of Kyrgyzstan. 360 00:21:55,340 --> 00:21:58,640 In the past, this 140km journey 361 00:21:58,760 --> 00:22:01,880 would have taken horse caravans nearly four days. 362 00:22:06,080 --> 00:22:10,080 At this rate, it's going to take my Soviet steed even longer. 363 00:22:12,500 --> 00:22:14,640 And to make matters worse... 364 00:22:16,460 --> 00:22:19,400 (EAGLE SCREECHING) 365 00:22:19,520 --> 00:22:22,920 I've no option but to radio the crew for help. 366 00:22:23,020 --> 00:22:24,120 It's not happy. 367 00:22:30,100 --> 00:22:33,240 I mean, I can try it again, but... 368 00:22:33,360 --> 00:22:37,560 My only hope is that local mechanics can carry out a roadside repair... 369 00:22:41,440 --> 00:22:45,160 ..but a broken fuel line means this bike is going nowhere. 370 00:22:47,320 --> 00:22:51,080 It's time to admit defeat and go back to my 4x4. 371 00:22:58,300 --> 00:23:00,120 Something that needs to be said 372 00:23:00,240 --> 00:23:03,760 is that Kyrgyzstan is incredibly beautiful. 373 00:23:03,880 --> 00:23:08,160 Not something, I think, we're aware of in the West. 374 00:23:08,260 --> 00:23:09,760 It's sort of a fairy-tale land. 375 00:23:09,880 --> 00:23:12,200 I expect Hogwarts to appear at almost any minute. 376 00:23:12,320 --> 00:23:16,280 I'm still following the route of the ancient nomad traders, 377 00:23:16,400 --> 00:23:19,480 but there's no sign of their modern counterparts. 378 00:23:19,600 --> 00:23:23,600 We're going up very high. We're at 3,800m now. 379 00:23:24,560 --> 00:23:27,560 I'm three times higher up than Ben Nevis. 380 00:23:28,420 --> 00:23:29,440 At this height, 381 00:23:29,560 --> 00:23:32,120 merchants passing through the Central Asian Silk Road 382 00:23:32,240 --> 00:23:35,120 would have suffered from altitude sickness. 383 00:23:35,240 --> 00:23:38,200 They complained of "Headache Mountains" 384 00:23:38,320 --> 00:23:41,200 where men's bodies became feverish, lost colour, 385 00:23:41,320 --> 00:23:44,320 and were attacked with headaches and vomiting. 386 00:23:44,420 --> 00:23:46,960 I'm not faring much better. 387 00:23:47,080 --> 00:23:49,880 What I'm noticing is shortness of breath... 388 00:23:51,260 --> 00:23:54,720 ..and headaches, and... 389 00:23:54,840 --> 00:23:58,120 a slight sense that the driver might have gone mad, 390 00:23:58,240 --> 00:24:00,520 cos we just keep on going up, and up, and up. 391 00:24:03,520 --> 00:24:06,760 At last, the road levels out and we reach the top. 392 00:24:11,380 --> 00:24:14,760 We're nearly 4,000m above sea level, 393 00:24:14,860 --> 00:24:17,520 and there's a frozen lake there. 394 00:24:17,640 --> 00:24:21,280 The reason we're so high up can be explained by Marco Polo, 395 00:24:21,400 --> 00:24:24,760 who talks of the wandering life of what he calls the Tartars, 396 00:24:24,880 --> 00:24:27,080 but he means the nomads as we understand them. 397 00:24:28,860 --> 00:24:30,200 "During two or three months, 398 00:24:30,320 --> 00:24:34,840 they progressively ascend higher ground and seek fresh pasture, 399 00:24:34,960 --> 00:24:37,280 the grass not being adequate in any one place 400 00:24:37,400 --> 00:24:41,760 to feed the multitudes of which their hordes and flocks consist." 401 00:24:41,880 --> 00:24:46,680 We may have slightly overshot it with how high we've come. 402 00:24:52,060 --> 00:24:53,680 Perhaps the nomads I'm seeking 403 00:24:53,800 --> 00:24:56,960 have wandered off elsewhere to find fresh pasture. 404 00:24:59,180 --> 00:25:00,840 I'm heading to the nearest town 405 00:25:00,960 --> 00:25:03,360 to see if anyone can help with my search. 406 00:25:05,040 --> 00:25:07,000 So, we're still on the lookout for nomads, 407 00:25:07,120 --> 00:25:10,160 but the thing about nomads, turns out they move about a lot, 408 00:25:10,260 --> 00:25:11,960 so they're proving quite elusive, 409 00:25:12,080 --> 00:25:16,000 but there's a woman, who I think could be waiting for us 410 00:25:16,120 --> 00:25:19,880 just on this street here, who will lead us to nomads. 411 00:25:20,000 --> 00:25:24,160 I've got a hot tip from her. She knows where they are. 412 00:25:24,280 --> 00:25:28,080 Hello. DINARA: Hello. Hi. I'm David. Dinara. 413 00:25:28,200 --> 00:25:31,760 Hi, Dinara. Can you show us where the nomads are? 414 00:25:31,880 --> 00:25:35,160 Yes, of course. If you like. Can you hop in? Yes. 415 00:25:35,280 --> 00:25:37,640 Dinara is herself descended from nomads, 416 00:25:37,740 --> 00:25:39,480 and knows of a hidden valley nearby 417 00:25:39,600 --> 00:25:43,080 where they come to graze their horses. 418 00:25:43,180 --> 00:25:45,240 (SPEAKING LOCAL LANGUAGE) 419 00:25:49,300 --> 00:25:50,680 There we go. 420 00:25:52,720 --> 00:25:56,040 Is that them? Over there? Yes. Just over there. Yeah. 421 00:25:56,160 --> 00:25:59,720 We've found them. There they are. That bunch of yurts over there, 422 00:25:59,840 --> 00:26:04,200 looking like a beautiful little glamping section of Glastonbury. 423 00:26:05,940 --> 00:26:07,120 That way, I think. 424 00:26:09,000 --> 00:26:13,160 Finally, the living descendants of the pioneers of the Silk Road - 425 00:26:13,260 --> 00:26:14,920 and their horses, too. 426 00:26:15,040 --> 00:26:17,880 Hello. Sinbad. This is Sinbad. Sinbad. 427 00:26:18,000 --> 00:26:21,920 Hello, Sinbad. I'm David. David. Hi, nice to meet you. 428 00:26:22,040 --> 00:26:24,680 Nomads like Sinbad use ancient knowledge 429 00:26:24,800 --> 00:26:28,080 passed down through the generations to survive here. 430 00:26:29,880 --> 00:26:32,120 How many years has she been doing this? 431 00:26:32,220 --> 00:26:33,880 (DINARA SPEAKING) 432 00:26:33,980 --> 00:26:36,000 Since she was a little girl? Yeah. 433 00:26:36,120 --> 00:26:38,280 Without the nomads, the first travellers 434 00:26:38,400 --> 00:26:41,280 along the Silk Road would never have made it west. 435 00:26:41,400 --> 00:26:44,680 The ancestors of these people had an intimate knowledge of the area, 436 00:26:44,800 --> 00:26:48,560 and carved the first paths through the mountains. 437 00:26:48,680 --> 00:26:52,160 So, using the horses or donkeys they were finding the passes, 438 00:26:52,280 --> 00:26:55,200 the best ways to go, and of course when the merchants came, 439 00:26:55,320 --> 00:26:58,160 they were using the ancient routes of the nomads, originally. 440 00:26:58,280 --> 00:27:02,000 Right. So the Silk Road is following the path of the nomad. Yes. 441 00:27:02,120 --> 00:27:04,640 Nomads are the first people to take, essentially, land, 442 00:27:04,760 --> 00:27:09,400 and say, "OK, we can traverse this, we can make a road across it." Yeah. 443 00:27:09,520 --> 00:27:12,800 But the nomads didn't just open up this stretch of the Silk Road. 444 00:27:12,920 --> 00:27:16,520 They also showed traders how to survive here. 445 00:27:16,620 --> 00:27:19,800 And now this 2,000-year-old knowledge 446 00:27:19,920 --> 00:27:23,800 has finally made its way to a comedian from north London. 447 00:27:26,160 --> 00:27:28,720 It's just days since I milked a camel, 448 00:27:28,840 --> 00:27:32,040 but now I'm discovering another animal used for this purpose 449 00:27:32,140 --> 00:27:33,720 that is not a cow. 450 00:27:33,840 --> 00:27:36,400 I'm gonna milk a mare, cos one thing I've discovered 451 00:27:36,520 --> 00:27:38,680 about the countries along the Silk Road 452 00:27:38,800 --> 00:27:41,800 is that if it's got four legs and some teats, 453 00:27:41,920 --> 00:27:44,640 someone's gonna get some milk out of it. 454 00:27:44,760 --> 00:27:47,040 That foot could take him out for life, 455 00:27:47,160 --> 00:27:49,840 could take out any chances of him having children. 456 00:27:49,960 --> 00:27:53,080 Like camel's milk, mare's milk is incredibly rich, 457 00:27:53,180 --> 00:27:56,560 and a vital part of the nomad diet. 458 00:27:56,660 --> 00:27:57,720 Is it good for the lungs? 459 00:27:57,840 --> 00:27:59,920 If you stay here and drink it for ten days... 460 00:28:00,040 --> 00:28:03,360 Yeah. You turn into a horse? No, you get ten years younger. 461 00:28:03,500 --> 00:28:04,520 Ten years younger? 462 00:28:04,640 --> 00:28:06,440 Or at least you look ten years younger. 463 00:28:06,540 --> 00:28:07,800 (LAUGHS) Yeah. So, yeah. 464 00:28:07,920 --> 00:28:09,640 Well, I hope to look ten years younger. 465 00:28:09,740 --> 00:28:11,880 Cheers. Cheers. Mmm. 466 00:28:13,540 --> 00:28:16,080 (GULPS) Oh, that's interesting. 467 00:28:17,200 --> 00:28:19,800 You can taste the mare in this mare's milk, I tell you. 468 00:28:19,900 --> 00:28:21,440 (LAUGHS) 469 00:28:21,560 --> 00:28:25,360 As their ancestors did, the nomads trade horse milk, 470 00:28:25,480 --> 00:28:29,520 and use their takings to buy things they can't get from the land, 471 00:28:29,640 --> 00:28:34,440 like flour for making boortsog, an ancient form of doughnut. 472 00:28:34,540 --> 00:28:37,480 I might say goodbye to my life of... 473 00:28:37,600 --> 00:28:42,280 flat whites and broadband and showbiz parties, 474 00:28:42,380 --> 00:28:44,640 just to do this and be... 475 00:28:44,740 --> 00:28:48,960 (CHUCKLES) and be ordered about by 476 00:28:49,080 --> 00:28:52,560 ancient nomadic women, how to make bread. 477 00:28:52,660 --> 00:28:54,360 Can I cut it on that? Yeah. OK. 478 00:28:54,480 --> 00:28:58,680 Oh, God. I'll have the little, dainty, small ones. I'll eat them. 479 00:28:58,800 --> 00:29:01,680 I just want it to be a touch browner. I'm a perfectionist. 480 00:29:01,780 --> 00:29:03,520 Ah. OK? Yeah. 481 00:29:05,800 --> 00:29:09,240 Try some. It's not too hot? Not too hot, yeah. It's OK. 482 00:29:09,340 --> 00:29:11,600 Mmm. It's lovely. 483 00:29:11,720 --> 00:29:14,840 It's not what the Atkins Diet would approve of, but nonetheless... 484 00:29:16,700 --> 00:29:19,440 Three! Two! One! Smile! 485 00:29:19,540 --> 00:29:20,520 (CAMERA CLICKS) 486 00:29:22,600 --> 00:29:26,080 My brief time with the nomads has been eye-opening. 487 00:29:26,200 --> 00:29:29,640 But while nomads were the pioneers of the early Silk Road, 488 00:29:29,760 --> 00:29:34,040 I want to find what this wild land was like when trade really took off. 489 00:29:36,060 --> 00:29:39,320 So I'm heading for Lake Issyk Kul. 490 00:29:39,440 --> 00:29:42,440 At the height of the Silk Road, this was a major trade region, 491 00:29:42,560 --> 00:29:45,880 with more than a dozen settlements around its shore. 492 00:29:50,760 --> 00:29:53,640 But since those times, excessive snow-melt 493 00:29:53,760 --> 00:29:58,240 has caused the water level of the lake to rise by eight metres, 494 00:29:58,340 --> 00:30:00,920 submerging its Silk Road settlements. 495 00:30:03,540 --> 00:30:06,200 Now recent archaeological dives 496 00:30:06,320 --> 00:30:10,120 have begun to unearth the remains of those sunken settlements... 497 00:30:12,560 --> 00:30:17,200 ..and today, I'm going underwater with archaeologist Vasily Ploskikh 498 00:30:17,320 --> 00:30:19,760 to search the most exciting one of all. 499 00:30:19,860 --> 00:30:21,400 Is that mine? Is this good? 500 00:30:21,520 --> 00:30:24,560 I don't know. I'll put it on first. Snazzy. What do you think? 501 00:30:25,840 --> 00:30:28,400 Vasily believes he's found the site of a palace 502 00:30:28,520 --> 00:30:31,320 belonging to the Mongol emperor Tamerlane. 503 00:30:33,200 --> 00:30:36,320 This wealthy ruler was famous for commissioning ornate, 504 00:30:36,420 --> 00:30:38,600 tiled buildings along the Silk Road, 505 00:30:38,720 --> 00:30:42,320 like those in the city of Bukhara, that still exist today. 506 00:30:50,240 --> 00:30:53,000 Here in Issyk Kul, divers have retrieved 507 00:30:53,120 --> 00:30:56,960 jewellery, pottery, and even bars of gold. 508 00:30:57,080 --> 00:31:01,880 If I find a chest in which there's 200 gold coins, 509 00:31:02,000 --> 00:31:06,280 do I get to keep it? No. No. It's bad, isn't it, the answer? 510 00:31:13,360 --> 00:31:16,960 I can't see anything particularly exciting, 511 00:31:17,060 --> 00:31:19,520 but then I finally spot something. 512 00:31:22,660 --> 00:31:24,680 (SPEAKING LOCAL LANGUAGE) 513 00:31:27,280 --> 00:31:29,960 The archaeologist, it's a very valuable find. 514 00:31:30,080 --> 00:31:33,160 Oh. Yeah. Hey. (DAVID SPEAKING) 515 00:31:38,000 --> 00:31:41,920 Vasily believes this tile could be a crucial piece of evidence 516 00:31:42,020 --> 00:31:44,400 in discovering if the palace here 517 00:31:44,520 --> 00:31:47,200 was as spectacular as those in Bukhara. 518 00:31:48,600 --> 00:31:51,920 The booty that we've got from that treasure hunt 519 00:31:52,020 --> 00:31:55,480 is this, which is a ceramic tile 520 00:31:55,600 --> 00:31:58,800 which you can still see the glazing on. I think that is amazing. 521 00:31:58,900 --> 00:32:01,040 (SPEAKING LOCAL LANGUAGE) 522 00:32:14,820 --> 00:32:16,720 My small find here today 523 00:32:16,840 --> 00:32:18,880 adds to an incredible body of evidence, 524 00:32:19,000 --> 00:32:22,880 helping to bring the Silk Road back to life. 525 00:32:22,980 --> 00:32:24,720 (SPEAKING LOCAL LANGUAGE) Whoa! 526 00:32:24,840 --> 00:32:29,640 Coming up, I discover what nomads get up to these days with horses... 527 00:32:29,760 --> 00:32:32,960 and the other animal that played a crucial role for traders 528 00:32:33,080 --> 00:32:35,920 in surviving the wilds of the Silk Road. 529 00:32:46,000 --> 00:32:48,720 I'm David Baddiel, and I'm in Kyrgyzstan. 530 00:32:49,980 --> 00:32:52,240 It's sort of a fairy-tale land. 531 00:32:52,360 --> 00:32:56,400 So far, I've uncovered a sunken Silk Road Atlantis... 532 00:32:56,500 --> 00:32:58,240 I think that is amazing. 533 00:32:58,340 --> 00:33:00,080 ..and discovered that the Silk Road 534 00:33:00,200 --> 00:33:03,760 was opened up by the knowledge of the nomads. 535 00:33:03,880 --> 00:33:07,160 So the Silk Road is following the path of the nomad. Yes. 536 00:33:11,040 --> 00:33:15,080 But the thing about the nomadic life is it's not just about movement. 537 00:33:15,200 --> 00:33:19,040 It's also about surviving on whichever patch of land you decide 538 00:33:19,140 --> 00:33:21,600 that this is gonna be yours for now. 539 00:33:21,720 --> 00:33:24,240 And we're on our way now to find out one of the secrets 540 00:33:24,360 --> 00:33:26,720 that have helped the nomads to survive 541 00:33:26,820 --> 00:33:29,720 in the wild for as long as they have. 542 00:33:29,840 --> 00:33:33,640 While horses played a central role in the lives of the nomads, 543 00:33:33,760 --> 00:33:36,440 there was another animal partnership that allowed them, 544 00:33:36,560 --> 00:33:39,640 and the traders who followed them, to thrive in the wilds. 545 00:33:41,800 --> 00:33:45,440 I'm heading for the remote village of Bokonbayevo, 546 00:33:45,560 --> 00:33:48,440 three kilometres south of Lake Issyk Kul, 547 00:33:48,560 --> 00:33:52,720 to meet fifth generation eagle-hunter Talgar Shaibyrov. 548 00:33:52,840 --> 00:33:56,240 Talgar. Hello, Talgar. Are your eagles here? Yeah. Here. 549 00:33:56,360 --> 00:33:58,200 They are? Oh, wow. (SQUAWKS) 550 00:33:58,320 --> 00:34:01,640 Golden eagles were an essential nomad hunting weapon 551 00:34:01,740 --> 00:34:04,000 encountered by Silk Road traders. 552 00:34:04,120 --> 00:34:08,440 A single eagle could feed and clothe an entire village. 553 00:34:08,560 --> 00:34:11,880 Even now, Talgar depends on his eagle Tamara 554 00:34:11,980 --> 00:34:13,800 to help feed his family. 555 00:34:13,920 --> 00:34:16,040 Today, he's agreed to take me hunting, 556 00:34:16,160 --> 00:34:19,080 to teach me the ways of the past and present. 557 00:34:19,200 --> 00:34:22,360 (TAMARA SCREECHES) Ooh, it doesn't like me much. 558 00:34:22,480 --> 00:34:26,840 All right. Whoa. Wait, wait. Yeah, you can tell I was born to this! 559 00:34:29,200 --> 00:34:33,040 Where do they go? In the boot? Yup. (CHUCKLES) 560 00:34:33,140 --> 00:34:34,880 They go in the boot. 561 00:34:38,120 --> 00:34:40,400 Do I just sit here? With the bird? Yeah. 562 00:34:40,520 --> 00:34:42,800 Wa-hey! (SPEAKING LOCAL LANGUAGE) 563 00:34:44,620 --> 00:34:47,520 This is a strange experience. 564 00:34:47,620 --> 00:34:49,360 Ooh. 565 00:34:49,480 --> 00:34:52,440 We're heading for the hills to find our prey. 566 00:34:54,300 --> 00:34:56,280 Cos of the masks, 567 00:34:56,400 --> 00:35:00,400 it feels like we've taken two birds of prey hostage. 568 00:35:00,520 --> 00:35:04,000 They might seem like pets, but these are fierce predators, 569 00:35:04,120 --> 00:35:06,800 and the masks help keep them calm in the car. 570 00:35:07,840 --> 00:35:10,560 (CHUCKLES) The eagle has somehow slipped its mask, 571 00:35:10,680 --> 00:35:14,480 and I just looked round and saw an enormous beady eye looking at me. 572 00:35:16,260 --> 00:35:18,560 I can't say it puts me at ease, 573 00:35:18,660 --> 00:35:21,440 having Tamara behind me, 574 00:35:21,540 --> 00:35:23,560 staring at the back of my head. 575 00:35:24,840 --> 00:35:28,120 Thinking, "Yeah, I like rabbit, I like fox, 576 00:35:28,280 --> 00:35:31,160 but I'd really like a Jew for dinner!" 577 00:35:34,660 --> 00:35:36,800 Finally, we arrive unscathed 578 00:35:36,920 --> 00:35:39,520 at Talgar and Tamara's favourite hunting-ground. 579 00:35:44,440 --> 00:35:48,760 Hello, wa-hey! (CHIRPS) Cor! Blimey! 580 00:35:48,860 --> 00:35:51,720 Just a slight hint of Jurassic Park. 581 00:35:51,820 --> 00:35:54,600 Right, let's do some hunting. 582 00:35:54,720 --> 00:35:57,480 Talgar has had Tamara since she was a chick, 583 00:35:57,580 --> 00:36:00,520 and spent years earning her trust. 584 00:36:00,640 --> 00:36:04,320 Now we're going to see Tamara doing what she does best, 585 00:36:04,440 --> 00:36:07,240 which is killing. You might be squeamish about this, 586 00:36:07,360 --> 00:36:10,200 and if you are a bit squeamish, I would advise a cup of tea, 587 00:36:10,300 --> 00:36:12,840 possibly, for the next bit. 588 00:36:12,960 --> 00:36:15,320 For Talgar, it's just another day in the office, 589 00:36:15,440 --> 00:36:20,200 but this practice dates back all the way to the Silk Road. 590 00:36:20,320 --> 00:36:24,680 Marco Polo writes about eagles on his experiences. 591 00:36:24,800 --> 00:36:27,680 He says, "They are trained to stoop at wolves, 592 00:36:27,800 --> 00:36:31,640 and such is their size and strength that none, however large, 593 00:36:31,740 --> 00:36:33,520 can escape from their talons." 594 00:36:35,100 --> 00:36:37,080 Its prey today is not that large, 595 00:36:37,200 --> 00:36:39,600 and I don't think it's gonna escape from her talons. 596 00:36:44,860 --> 00:36:47,080 Tamara's seven-foot wingspan 597 00:36:47,200 --> 00:36:51,800 enables her to dive at speeds of over 240km/h. 598 00:36:55,520 --> 00:36:58,240 And with eyes four times sharper than mine, 599 00:36:58,360 --> 00:37:01,440 she effortlessly picks out her victim, a rabbit. 600 00:37:04,540 --> 00:37:07,240 Tamara, quite clearly, as soon as her mask was off, 601 00:37:07,360 --> 00:37:11,280 had focused on where it was, like a sniper's rifle sights. 602 00:37:12,640 --> 00:37:15,640 Tamara's prey provides food for the family, 603 00:37:15,760 --> 00:37:18,440 but it also provides a source of trade 604 00:37:18,540 --> 00:37:21,240 that originated on the Silk Road. 605 00:37:21,340 --> 00:37:23,400 (SPEAKING LOCAL LANGUAGE) 606 00:37:46,100 --> 00:37:48,840 So the birds had to hunt fur, 607 00:37:48,960 --> 00:37:51,640 really, wolves and foxes, which would then be skinned, 608 00:37:51,760 --> 00:37:54,880 and then they would be traded along the Silk Road. 609 00:37:54,980 --> 00:37:56,480 The fur hunted by eagles 610 00:37:56,600 --> 00:38:00,840 would have helped merchants survive the bitter cold of the mountains. 611 00:38:00,940 --> 00:38:04,360 The Silk Road isn't just about trade. 612 00:38:04,460 --> 00:38:06,960 It's also about surviving. 613 00:38:07,060 --> 00:38:08,600 And out in the wild, 614 00:38:08,720 --> 00:38:11,280 if you're trying to trade, and you're trying to survive, 615 00:38:11,400 --> 00:38:13,760 and you're trying to live your life, then you need 616 00:38:13,880 --> 00:38:16,880 a way of keeping yourself and your things safe. 617 00:38:18,400 --> 00:38:23,080 And if you have the option of a bow and arrow or an eagle, 618 00:38:24,280 --> 00:38:27,040 I would have gone, with what I've just seen, with an eagle. 619 00:38:29,180 --> 00:38:30,480 (CHUCKLES) 620 00:38:35,480 --> 00:38:39,560 Back at Talgar's house, today's catch is prepared for dinner. 621 00:38:39,680 --> 00:38:42,520 It's one of those times when I'm glad I work in television, 622 00:38:42,620 --> 00:38:45,080 and not in ancient hunting. 623 00:38:46,580 --> 00:38:48,640 (SIZZLING) 624 00:38:48,740 --> 00:38:50,040 Amazing. 625 00:38:52,080 --> 00:38:54,800 My time in Central Asia has taught me that animals, 626 00:38:54,900 --> 00:38:57,640 from camels and rabbits to eagles, 627 00:38:57,760 --> 00:39:01,680 were the key to surviving this wild landscape. 628 00:39:01,800 --> 00:39:06,280 But there's no doubt that one animal really held the key to the Silk Road: 629 00:39:06,380 --> 00:39:07,680 horses. 630 00:39:07,800 --> 00:39:12,200 For nomads, traders and the Chinese, they were almost objects of worship. 631 00:39:14,200 --> 00:39:18,600 Today I'm going to the Horse Games, where horses, in everything they are 632 00:39:18,720 --> 00:39:20,760 and everything they do, will be celebrated 633 00:39:20,880 --> 00:39:22,680 by the local people here in Kyrgyzstan. 634 00:39:22,800 --> 00:39:25,880 And obviously, because it's the Horse Games, 635 00:39:26,000 --> 00:39:28,600 I'm gonna be travelling there on this. 636 00:39:28,720 --> 00:39:31,680 This is the other traditional form of transport in this area, 637 00:39:31,800 --> 00:39:35,000 a knackered old ex-Soviet car, the Moskvitch. 638 00:39:38,160 --> 00:39:40,920 It doesn't actually have a starting mechanism any more, 639 00:39:41,040 --> 00:39:44,040 so I've paid a nomad to push me to get going. 640 00:39:53,400 --> 00:39:57,320 The Horse Games have been celebrated since the days of the Silk Road, 641 00:39:57,440 --> 00:40:00,560 and it's still a highlight in the nomad calendar. 642 00:40:03,860 --> 00:40:05,920 Hey, Dinara. Hi. Hello. 643 00:40:06,040 --> 00:40:09,640 How you doing? I'm good, how are you? Yeah, nice to see you too. 644 00:40:09,760 --> 00:40:14,080 Horsemanship is still prized above all skills in Kyrgyz culture. 645 00:40:15,660 --> 00:40:18,000 And there is one extraordinary sport 646 00:40:18,120 --> 00:40:21,440 that allows men to show off this skill like no other... 647 00:40:23,260 --> 00:40:24,640 ..Kok Boru, 648 00:40:24,740 --> 00:40:28,040 a hybrid of rugby and a Texas rodeo 649 00:40:28,140 --> 00:40:30,440 using a headless goat as a ball. 650 00:40:32,920 --> 00:40:35,080 David! Yes, hello. (SPEAKING LOCAL LANGUAGE) 651 00:40:38,360 --> 00:40:40,600 An assistant ref? Yeah, an assistant referee. 652 00:40:40,720 --> 00:40:43,120 They're asking me to be the assistant ref. Yeah. 653 00:40:43,240 --> 00:40:46,200 OK. Kok Sai. Kok Sai. Yeah. And this is... 654 00:40:46,320 --> 00:40:48,200 (SPEAKING LOCAL LANGUAGE) Tong. Tong. 655 00:40:48,320 --> 00:40:52,200 So it's Kok Sai in the red hats versus Tong in the blue. 656 00:40:52,320 --> 00:40:54,840 Good. Yeah, no. That's fantastic. OK, yeah. 657 00:40:54,960 --> 00:40:56,880 Thank you very much. It's a great honour. 658 00:40:56,980 --> 00:40:58,920 Thank you. I have to keep score. Yes. 659 00:40:59,040 --> 00:41:00,920 I don't know how... When is a goal scored? 660 00:41:01,040 --> 00:41:02,760 The goal is scored... How do I tell? 661 00:41:02,860 --> 00:41:04,400 There don't appear to be any nets. 662 00:41:04,520 --> 00:41:07,440 When they throw the goat into the tyre? Yeah, it means a score. 663 00:41:07,560 --> 00:41:10,320 When they throw the goat into the tyre, that's a goal. 664 00:41:10,420 --> 00:41:12,040 Yeah. It's a score. Yeah. 665 00:41:13,620 --> 00:41:14,600 We're off! 666 00:41:17,980 --> 00:41:19,440 And they're going for it. 667 00:41:19,560 --> 00:41:23,760 It's turning into an immediate big horse scrap. 668 00:41:23,880 --> 00:41:27,520 It might seem barbaric, but the sport has practical origins, 669 00:41:27,620 --> 00:41:29,840 from when the Silk Road nomads 670 00:41:29,960 --> 00:41:33,000 would have to chase down and retrieve a goat snatched by wolves. 671 00:41:33,120 --> 00:41:37,080 Yes. Who scored? Who scored? Yeah, the Kok Sai. 672 00:41:37,200 --> 00:41:39,600 The Kok Sai scored? The Kok Sai scored. OK, thanks. 673 00:41:39,720 --> 00:41:43,160 It's not normally the case that the fourth official has to ask the crowd 674 00:41:43,280 --> 00:41:46,400 if there's been a goal, but make do and mend. Yeah. 675 00:41:46,500 --> 00:41:47,720 It's great to watch, 676 00:41:47,840 --> 00:41:50,240 but I've got no idea what's actually going on. 677 00:41:50,340 --> 00:41:51,480 Referee! Look! 678 00:41:51,600 --> 00:41:54,880 He's pretending to hit the horse. He's just hitting the other player! 679 00:41:55,000 --> 00:41:57,320 There are children there. Children there! Children! 680 00:41:57,420 --> 00:41:58,960 (DINARA LAUGHS) 681 00:42:00,420 --> 00:42:02,360 (MAN SHOUTS IN LOCAL LANGUAGE) Whoa! 682 00:42:04,160 --> 00:42:07,440 Historically, the winning team would receive the goat, 683 00:42:07,560 --> 00:42:10,400 but today, they're making an exception. 684 00:42:10,520 --> 00:42:12,800 Oh, I appear to be given the goat. Yeah, yeah. 685 00:42:12,920 --> 00:42:14,640 Thank you very much. (DINARA LAUGHS) 686 00:42:14,740 --> 00:42:16,760 (SPEAKING LOCAL LANGUAGE) 687 00:42:18,500 --> 00:42:21,440 Yeah. Honestly, it was a great game. 688 00:42:21,560 --> 00:42:24,520 It went a bit tasty, and a bit weird at one point, 689 00:42:24,640 --> 00:42:28,240 but I think overall, there's only gotta be one winner, 690 00:42:28,360 --> 00:42:31,640 and that has to be Kok Sai! Kok Sai! Yeah. 691 00:42:31,740 --> 00:42:34,120 Sorry to Tong. (LAUGHS) Yeah. 692 00:42:34,220 --> 00:42:35,840 As the nomads head back to camp... 693 00:42:35,940 --> 00:42:39,520 Go, go, go, go, go. Bye-bye! Bye-bye. 694 00:42:39,640 --> 00:42:42,400 ..I set off west to continue my journey. 695 00:42:44,960 --> 00:42:48,120 So, this bit of the Silk Road's been fairly wild, actually. 696 00:42:48,240 --> 00:42:51,880 It's been very animal-based, and I've drunk a lot of milk. 697 00:42:53,280 --> 00:42:56,480 Horse's milk, camel's milk, even cow's milk occasionally. 698 00:42:56,600 --> 00:42:59,640 But it's been about the land, and about the way that people 699 00:42:59,760 --> 00:43:03,520 use the resources of the land to survive whilst trying to create 700 00:43:03,640 --> 00:43:06,760 trade for themselves. At the end of the day, though, 701 00:43:06,880 --> 00:43:09,800 the Silk Road is about the birth of capitalism, 702 00:43:09,920 --> 00:43:13,040 and so, really, I wanna go in search of trade again. 703 00:43:13,160 --> 00:43:17,760 I wanna go in search of luxury, and silk, and merchandise. 704 00:43:19,200 --> 00:43:21,240 What I'm saying is, "Show me the money." 705 00:43:32,460 --> 00:43:33,520 (MAN GRUNTS) 706 00:43:35,220 --> 00:43:37,200 subtitles by Deluxe 707 00:43:38,860 --> 00:43:40,320 Next time... 708 00:43:40,440 --> 00:43:44,080 I go hunting for treasure in the hills of Central Asia... 709 00:43:44,200 --> 00:43:46,320 Gold here? WOMAN: Yes, that's gold. 710 00:43:46,440 --> 00:43:50,200 ..immerse myself in the oilfields of Azerbaijan... 711 00:43:50,320 --> 00:43:52,600 There's actually oil coming out of the ground. 712 00:43:52,720 --> 00:43:56,120 ..and try my hand at an ancient Silk Road sport. 713 00:43:57,220 --> 00:43:59,200 (GRUNTS) (GROANS) Yes! (LAUGHTER) 58802

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